For the indoor-only cat, plants are an important part of an ideal environment that should also include a variety of toys, cat trees and scratching posts, and screened porches or window perches that allow the intriguing scents of the hazardous world outside safely into a cat's life.

Although the indoor life is far safer for cats and is gaining favor among cat lovers, household confinement does have some hazards, and plants are certainly among them.

If your cat loves to nibble on houseplants, make sure poisonous plants are not on the menu. "The Cornell Book of Cats" (Random House, $35) warns that many common houseplants can make your cat ill, and a few can be deadly. Among the most dangerous are dieffenbachia, lily of the valley and philodendron. Various ivies and yews can be troublesome, too, and the bulbs of plants popular for "forcing" into early indoor bloom -- such as amaryllis, daffodils and tulips -- can cause problems for the cat that likes to dig and chew.

The other problem with cats and houseplants is strictly irritation -- not to the pet's system, but to the owner's. Some cats are industrious destroyers of household greenery, while others like to kick dirt around or even use larger pots as litter boxes. All of which makes perfect sense to your cat, annoying as it may be to you.

Can people, cats and plants co-exist? With an understanding of your cat's needs and a consistent approach to the problem, you bet they can.

Understand that your cat needs and wants plants in your home. Indulge your pet by keeping planters of sprouting grasses growing in an accessible place for nibbling. Special blends of seeds for cats are available in pet stores and specialty shops, or you can purchase rye grass seeds at the nursery.

Catnip, too, is something that's always better when fresh, as is valerian. While not all cats react to the pleasures of these plants, those that do will appreciate your keeping it in-house, and using fresh cuttings to recharge cat posts and toys.

When your cat has his own plants, you can work on keeping him away from yours. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet: Hang them!

For the plants you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating them with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to reinforce the point. You can also discourage your pet by shooting him with the spray from a water bottle when you see him in the plants.

Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers, and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock. Foil and waxed paper are less-attractive deterrents, and I don't like to recommend them as much as decorative rock because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil. Another possibility: The people who make the Sticky Paws strips that discourage furniture-scratching also make a similar product that fits inside planters to halt feline explorations. (For more information, the company can be found online at www.stickypaws.com, or by phoning 817-926-3023.)

Remember that resolving behavior problems often takes time and involves a bit of compromise on your part. Give your cats the greens he wants, protect him from the ones that might hurt him, and make the rest less attractive to him. And one day, a lush indoor garden will be yours for both you and your cat to enjoy.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Animal Hospital Association has put together the Healthy Pet Web site (www.healthypet.com) to offer basic pet-care information on most of the animals commonly kept as pets. The site does focus primarily on dog and cat care, though, and for these pets you'll find dozens of useful documents on such topics as aggression, cancer, preventive health care and traveling. Also included are posters that can be printed out for children to color, and there's a search engine to help locate an AAHA-member veterinary hospital. In all, a well-organized and helpful Web site.

THE SCOOP

If you can imagine what it's like to spend a rather large part of your life in a relatively small cage, then you can also see why toys are so important to birds. Toys give these pets a chance to use their considerable brainpower, exercise their bodies, and relieve the stresses of confinement and boredom. Check out the selection at any reputable bird shop, and don't forget to improvise with cheap and safe household items that can be recycled into toys.

The cardboard cores of toilet paper and paper towel rolls, for example, are great for shredding. Other items that will last longer include old toothbrushes, plastic bottle tops, measuring cups, spoons, and ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed. For these items, wash in warm, soapy water and rinse well before giving them to your bird, or run them through a cycle in your dishwasher.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm writing about the letter concerning the terrier with a barking problem. We will accept barking from our dogs -- they are telling us something is going on that we should know about. We tell them the standard "Good girl" and then "It's OK; stop" or words like that. When they don't stop barking, we then shake an aluminum pop can with several pennies in it, saying, "(name), no bark." (By the way, the pop can is empty except for the pennies.)

This method has worked on the four dogs we have. It gets to the point where their barking is very limited now after a few "arfs." But the few times they get carried away, we just show them the pop can and that quiets them down. There's no harsh punishment toward them for doing (what they think is) their job, and we get peace and quiet.

Will you share this tip to help people with barking dogs? Dogs do not like the sound of those pennies! -- W.M.K., Orleans, Indiana

A: Yes, the pennies-in-a-can trick has been around for years, and it's certainly worth trying. You've also managed to get the balance right, in praising your dogs for barking and then asking them to stop. When you do this, you change the behavior from something your dog is doing on her own to something your dog is doing that you've interjected some control over.

Of course, any bark-stopping method that requires a human presence has its limitations -- you can't always be there to correct barking. That's why it's so important for the sake of your neighbors' sanity to arrange your dog's living situation to remove or limit the triggers that make your dog fire up the yap machine.

I recommend keeping a barker inside when the family is gone. Inside the house, blocking access to front windows will keep the animal from seeing people go by, and leaving on a radio will help to muffle audio triggers such as car doors slamming.

By the way, I received a flurry of e-mails asking where to find the citronella anti-bark collar I mentioned previously. Try the Doctors Foster and Smith catalog, either online at www.drsfostersmith.com, or by phone: 800-381-7179.

Q: How old must a kitten be before being spayed? We went to look at kittens at the shelter, and they insist the babies be fixed before adoption, which seems a little young to us. -- L.E., via e-mail

A: Puppies and kittens can be safely neutered as young as 8 weeks, and studies have consistently shown no long-term problems with health or behavior for surgeries that are done earlier than the 4- to 6-month ideal previously considered standard procedure.

If your shelter's policy is to insist on early spay-neuter, I wouldn't let that deter you from adopting a kitten there. On the contrary, such policies show that the organization is actively fighting pet overpopulation by trying to stop the kittens-out, kittens-in cycle that happens when last year's babies become this year's parents.

If you end up with a kitten from another source, follow your veterinarian's advice on when to alter your pet. Although early spay-neuter is safe, not all veterinarians are comfortable with performing the operation that early.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A friend was telling me about a problem he'd had at his local fast-food outlet. An older, larger child in the play area was pushing around a smaller boy while the bully's parents looked on, oblivious.

The friend waited for the parents to do something about the problem child, and when that didn't happen, he went over to speak with them about removing their son. "They're just playing," the other dad said, and both men exchanged a few less-than-polite words before the bully's parents picked up their son and left.

Being the non-confrontational type, my first thought was to be amazed that no one ended up shot. My second was how much the story reminded me of my local dog park.

Since this is a pet column, it's not my place to comment about poorly behaved children or clueless parents. But ill-mannered dogs and their oblivious owners? That's another thing entirely.

Don't get me wrong: I'm a strong supporter of dog parks. A lot of the problems we have with dogs are caused by a lack of exercise, poor socialization or both. And I'm happy to see that an increasing number of communities are giving dog lovers fenced areas to unleash their pets.

Dog parks are run by peer pressure, and it's generally a good system. Most dog lovers know that having such areas is a privilege, hard-won and still considered experimental by many public officials. We come down hard on people who don't respect the rules, especially when it comes to picking up after their pets.

But what about the problems that are more about common sense and common civility? These things pop up now and then, thanks to people who may lack both.

The biggest lapse in common sense: leaving a choke collar on your dog after you take off the leash. Putting aside the frequent overuse and misuse of this piece of training equipment, every dog lover should realize that choke collars are not intended to be left on a dog without the leash attached. The moving ring can be easily caught -- on the tooth of another dog in play, for example -- and once that happens, the natural tendency of an animal to pull away from danger puts into play the natural tendency of the collar to choke when tightened. This situation is dangerous, both for the dog and for anyone who tries to free him, who may be bitten by the panicking pet.

Problems of the civility variety come from people who allow their dogs to annoy other pets or people. Sometimes a dog will just get it in his head that he's going to pick out one person or pet to pester. If your dog is ruining the enjoyment of the park for another user, get out your leash and call it a day, or at least engage your pet in a game of fetch on the other side of the enclosure.

Then there are the people who seem to have neither common sense nor common civility: the ones bringing dogs that get into fights. Dogs that are flat-out aggressive have no business being off-leash anywhere, including a dog park, but I'm a little more tolerant of those animals that now and then get wound up in play to the point of an altercation. The solution for these dogs is easy: Keep them muzzled. A wire box muzzle allows a dog to breathe easily and pant, but keeps the teeth out of play while the pet is getting the exercise he needs.

The problems in dog parks aren't that common, but they would be almost unheard of if people just used their heads. Being more careful and considerate is the best way I know to ensure that there'll be dog parks for our pets to enjoy for a long time to come.

PETS ON THE WEB

Want to keep up on the latest dog-related news from around the world? Then make it a point to visit The Scoop: Dogs in the News (http://dogsinthenews.com) on a regular basis. The Web site looks for dog stories of all kinds -- funny, quirky, irritating or just plain interesting -- and lists the links in reverse chronological order.

The take on the news is definitely pro-dog, as the editorial comments attached to many pieces make very clear. Each story offers a link to a discussion board, where visitors can add their opinions to the mix.

THE SCOOP

Looking for a non-chemical weapon in the fight against fleas? Chances are, two of the best are already in your home: a washing machine and a vacuum cleaner.

Washing pet bedding on at least a weekly basis will help to kill fleas of all life stages -- eggs, larvae and adults. Bedding that cannot be washed is a fertile breeding ground for generation after generation of fleas, so it's best to use beds that can handle wash-and-dry cycles with ease.

Regular vacuuming of areas where pets frequent also breaks the flea breeding cycle. Empty the canister immediately after use, to prevent your vacuum cleaner from becoming a flea nursery. If your cleaner uses bags, put in some flea powder or a piece of flea collar to kill the pests.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have always had big dogs. But since my husband and I are in our 70s now, we decided that when our last shepherd died that having a small dog would be a better idea. A few months ago we got an adorable Maltese pup.

Cindy is a sweetie, and we love her. But we don't seem to be having much luck getting her house-trained. She just doesn't seem to get the concept, even though we've put her nose in the mess and spanked her. Help! -- C.M., via e-mail

A: Toy dogs are notoriously hard to house-train, but it can usually be accomplished with consistency, praise and lots of patience. Please notice that "punishment" is not on that list, so stop with the swat right now, and vow to never put your pup's nose in another mess.

The first step in house-training a toy breed, according to small-dog expert Darlene Arden, author of "The Irrepressible Toy Dog" (Hungry Minds Inc., $17.95), is to make sure your dog will feel safe in the outside spot you've chosen for her to use.

The act of elimination is one when a dog's guard is down, and when you weigh 10 pounds or less, it's important to feel that you're not going to be attacked. "They feel vulnerable," says Arden. "You need to find that one very safe spot for them." And keep the grass short so the dog doesn't feel as if he's hacking through a jungle, she adds.

Once your dog has that safe spot outside, you put your house-training plan in place.

"Feed on a schedule," says Arden, "and be aware of when the puppy has to go. You must take your dog out after he eats, after play, after any kind of stimulation.

"Take a very special treat and your happiest voice to the special spot. The moment the puppy's feet hit the ground, get excited." When the deed is done, says Arden, praise your pet and deliver the treat.

Limiting a dog's wandering in the house is also important. "I'm a firm believer in crate-training -- as a tool, not a punishment," says Arden. "A crate keeps a dog out of trouble when you can't watch him." Some trainers also recommend leashing your dog to you in the house while training, so the pet can't slip off unnoticed.

Mistakes are part of the learning process and should never be punished. "If you see the dog starting to go in the house, pick him up and run him to that special spot," says Arden, and praise when the dog finishes up outside.

If you want to solve this problem, you'll have to work at it consistently for a few weeks or more. It's worth it in the end, because then you'll have the companion you were hoping for when you brought home your puppy -- a bright, happy dog of a manageable size who knows how to do her business outside.

Q: As the temperature is heating up, so are truck beds. Many dog owners seem to be blissfully unaware of that, and they make their dogs ride in the back. Please help educate these idiots. -- N.B., via e-mail

A: Consider it done. Transporting a dog in the back of an open pickup is about the worst thing you can do in terms of safety and comfort. Aside from the problem of hot feet, dogs in pickups can be thrown from the vehicle, or sometimes will jump out if something catches their attention. Leashing your dog -- as required by law in some states -- provides little in the way of safety.

If you must transport your dog in a pickup, do so in a crate secured firmly to the bed of the truck. Using a crate will keep your dog's feet off the hot metal, and provide protection against him jumping out or being thrown out if you must stop sharply.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Why does the Federal Emergency Management Agency care about what happens to pets during disasters? It's simple: Because they've learned that if no one plans for animals, people will also suffer.

"Pets are more and more treated like members of the family," said Cindy Taylor, a spokesperson for FEMA's Project Impact, which works to get the word out about disaster preparedness, including offering tips for pet lovers. "The consequences of not planning for pets have consequences for humans."

Taylor cites examples where people put themselves and others in jeopardy in order to help their pets. "We've had emergency workers in situations where they had to rescue people who should have evacuated in advance but didn't because they wouldn't leave their pets. And some people put themselves in danger by re-entering an area too soon to search for their pets."

Project Impact has teamed with the Humane Society of the United States to help educate people on the steps they can take in advance of a disaster to help pets get through it with as little disruption as possible. The recommendations have the ring of common sense about them, but they aren't known or practiced by enough pet lovers.

At the top of the list of recommendations, according to Taylor: Do everything you can to avoid leaving your pets behind. "A lot of people turn their animals loose, figuring they would be better off fending for themselves," said Taylor. "That's not a good idea. Take your pets with you, but as a last resort, then you should leave them on the highest floor possible in your home, with a few days' supply of water and food."

Taylor stresses the need for keeping pets in mind when preparing a family disaster kit. Set aside extra bowls, collars, ID tags and leashes for all pets, along with pet food and drinking water. (If you use canned food, be sure you've packed pop-top cans or a manual can opener.) You'll also need copies of your pet's vaccination records, as well as a supply of any regular medications. Don't forget a litter box and filler for cats. For all pets, paper towels, plastic bags and disinfectant will make cleanups easier.

Many pets become separated from their families, which is why you should also do what you can to give you an edge in finding your pet. Prepare a folder with pictures of your pet to help with identification. Include a record of any identifying tattoos or microchips. And above all: Make sure a current ID tag is on your pet and that it carries not only your contact information, but also a number for a friend or relative who's out of the area (in case you cannot be reached).

Check into what arrangements are available in your community for pets in times of disasters. While some areas include shelter for pets in their plans, most communities will not allow animals in emergency shelters. Find out now about shelters, kennels or veterinary hospitals that will take in pets during an emergency. You'll find your options greatly expanded if you have a crate available for your pet's temporary housing.

Taylor says more people than ever are aware of the impact of disasters on animals, thanks to animal-welfare groups that have gone into areas to rescue pets, as well as the media's coverage of animals in trouble. "The news media have been attentive to showing pets who have been lost or abandoned after major disasters," she said, "and that gets people thinking, "What would I do?'"

Efforts like Project Impact work to provide the answers, which will make a difference for many pets and people in the years to come.

THE SCOOP

Albert Payson Terhune is nearly unknown today, but in the time immediately before and after World War I, he was a writer whose prominence rivaled that of his friend Sinclair Lewis. While the writings of Lewis endure and are studied in literature programs today, any interest in Terhune and his work, such as "Lad: A Dog," remains something of a hobby among a few people who like dogs.

Terhune, whose mother is credited with writing the first cookbook and who wrote his first book at the age of 24, lived a life interesting enough to keep several biographers busy over the decades. The latest effort, coming nearly 60 years after Terhune's death, is "His Dogs: Albert Payson Terhune and the Sunnybank Collies" by Kristina Marshall. The book, which contains many previously unpublished photographs, focuses on the dogs in Terhune's life.

The privately published volume is available for $45 (which includes shipping and handling), and is available from Krista Hansen, 1525 Minkel Road, North Java, NY 14113. Proceeds will benefit the Collie Club of America Foundation's efforts on behalf of the welfare of the breed. More information can be found on the foundation's Web site, www.cca-foundation.org/terhune.html.

PETS ON THE WEB

The veterinary associations of Texas, Hawaii and Southern California have teamed up to produce a gem of a basic-care Web site, especially for people whose pet interests go beyond dogs and cats. AnimalLibrary.com (www.animallibrary.com) is an easy-to-navigate site offering veterinary-approved information on such pets as hedgehogs, box turtles, sugar gliders, ferrets, rabbits and guinea pigs. The site also offers a library of dog- and cat-care guides, plus a collection of short pet-care advice items by Dr. Bernadine Cruz.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am going to adopt a cat from a friend. The cat was a stray and just had a litter of kittens. They are now 5 weeks old. The veterinarian said the mother cannot be spayed till 13 weeks after the birth of the kittens. Can she be spayed now? -- P.G., via e-mail

A: Thirteen weeks after giving birth allows too much time for a cat to get pregnant again. And a cat will get pregnant again, given even the slightest opportunity.

Alley Cat Allies, a national group that promotes the humane management of feral cat colonies, recommends spaying the mother cat two weeks after the kittens start to be weaned, which happens between the ages of 4 and 6 weeks. So you need to get the mother cat in for surgery about six to eight weeks after giving birth. In other words, make the arrangements now.

I'm not clear on what is happening to the kittens. Is your friend finding homes for them? If so, please let her know that the kittens don't need to wait long to be neutered, as well. Early spay-neuter has been accepted as safe by veterinary societies and shelters everywhere, and it can be done on cats and dogs as young as 8 weeks of age.

And what if you end up waiting too long to spay your new pet? Although it's a more complicated (and as a result, more expensive) surgery, veterinarians can and routinely do spay pregnant pets.

Q: Our dog, a terrier, is not quite 2 years old, and her barking is very irritating. We tried a bark collar, but she just got used to it. We will be traveling with her this summer. We'll be staying in motels and want to have her debarked. We live near Wichita, Kan., and want to know who does debarking here. We feel we have no other choice. Also, she doesn't like kids and will try to bite them! -- J.W., via e-mail

A: I've known a considerable number of debarked dogs in my time, since I've done rescue work with a breed that's known for its yappiness -- Shetland sheepdogs. Debarked dogs usually are still capable of barking, except that their volume is greatly reduced by the surgical alteration of their vocal cords.

Like declawing, debarking is a highly controversial procedure. I never recommend either surgery as a quick fix, and I suggest that other behavior modifications be seriously tried before any animal be put through a painful procedure. That said, I recognize that declawing and debarking have saved the lives of many animals whose behavior put them on a fast track to homelessness.

Before you talk to your veterinarian about debarking, ask for a referral to a behaviorist who can help you work on all of your dog's problems. I know barking is a nuisance, but it's natural behavior for terriers, breeds that also end up on the top of the heap when it comes to yappiness. I'm much more concerned about your dog's biting attempts, though. You need a behaviorist for your dog, or you'll need a lawyer soon enough.

I'm no fan of collars that shock dogs. In the hands of experts, they can be an effective training tool. But they are misused and overused by the general public. For barking, I much prefer collars that react to the noise with a harmless puff of citronella spray right under the nose -- which dogs find extremely annoying. You can find these in many pet-supply stores, catalogs or Web sites, at a cost of about $120.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600