Why does the Federal Emergency Management Agency care about what happens to pets during disasters? It's simple: Because they've learned that if no one plans for animals, people will also suffer.

"Pets are more and more treated like members of the family," said Cindy Taylor, a spokesperson for FEMA's Project Impact, which works to get the word out about disaster preparedness, including offering tips for pet lovers. "The consequences of not planning for pets have consequences for humans."

Taylor cites examples where people put themselves and others in jeopardy in order to help their pets. "We've had emergency workers in situations where they had to rescue people who should have evacuated in advance but didn't because they wouldn't leave their pets. And some people put themselves in danger by re-entering an area too soon to search for their pets."

Project Impact has teamed with the Humane Society of the United States to help educate people on the steps they can take in advance of a disaster to help pets get through it with as little disruption as possible. The recommendations have the ring of common sense about them, but they aren't known or practiced by enough pet lovers.

At the top of the list of recommendations, according to Taylor: Do everything you can to avoid leaving your pets behind. "A lot of people turn their animals loose, figuring they would be better off fending for themselves," said Taylor. "That's not a good idea. Take your pets with you, but as a last resort, then you should leave them on the highest floor possible in your home, with a few days' supply of water and food."

Taylor stresses the need for keeping pets in mind when preparing a family disaster kit. Set aside extra bowls, collars, ID tags and leashes for all pets, along with pet food and drinking water. (If you use canned food, be sure you've packed pop-top cans or a manual can opener.) You'll also need copies of your pet's vaccination records, as well as a supply of any regular medications. Don't forget a litter box and filler for cats. For all pets, paper towels, plastic bags and disinfectant will make cleanups easier.

Many pets become separated from their families, which is why you should also do what you can to give you an edge in finding your pet. Prepare a folder with pictures of your pet to help with identification. Include a record of any identifying tattoos or microchips. And above all: Make sure a current ID tag is on your pet and that it carries not only your contact information, but also a number for a friend or relative who's out of the area (in case you cannot be reached).

Check into what arrangements are available in your community for pets in times of disasters. While some areas include shelter for pets in their plans, most communities will not allow animals in emergency shelters. Find out now about shelters, kennels or veterinary hospitals that will take in pets during an emergency. You'll find your options greatly expanded if you have a crate available for your pet's temporary housing.

Taylor says more people than ever are aware of the impact of disasters on animals, thanks to animal-welfare groups that have gone into areas to rescue pets, as well as the media's coverage of animals in trouble. "The news media have been attentive to showing pets who have been lost or abandoned after major disasters," she said, "and that gets people thinking, "What would I do?'"

Efforts like Project Impact work to provide the answers, which will make a difference for many pets and people in the years to come.

THE SCOOP

Albert Payson Terhune is nearly unknown today, but in the time immediately before and after World War I, he was a writer whose prominence rivaled that of his friend Sinclair Lewis. While the writings of Lewis endure and are studied in literature programs today, any interest in Terhune and his work, such as "Lad: A Dog," remains something of a hobby among a few people who like dogs.

Terhune, whose mother is credited with writing the first cookbook and who wrote his first book at the age of 24, lived a life interesting enough to keep several biographers busy over the decades. The latest effort, coming nearly 60 years after Terhune's death, is "His Dogs: Albert Payson Terhune and the Sunnybank Collies" by Kristina Marshall. The book, which contains many previously unpublished photographs, focuses on the dogs in Terhune's life.

The privately published volume is available for $45 (which includes shipping and handling), and is available from Krista Hansen, 1525 Minkel Road, North Java, NY 14113. Proceeds will benefit the Collie Club of America Foundation's efforts on behalf of the welfare of the breed. More information can be found on the foundation's Web site, www.cca-foundation.org/terhune.html.

PETS ON THE WEB

The veterinary associations of Texas, Hawaii and Southern California have teamed up to produce a gem of a basic-care Web site, especially for people whose pet interests go beyond dogs and cats. AnimalLibrary.com (www.animallibrary.com) is an easy-to-navigate site offering veterinary-approved information on such pets as hedgehogs, box turtles, sugar gliders, ferrets, rabbits and guinea pigs. The site also offers a library of dog- and cat-care guides, plus a collection of short pet-care advice items by Dr. Bernadine Cruz.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am going to adopt a cat from a friend. The cat was a stray and just had a litter of kittens. They are now 5 weeks old. The veterinarian said the mother cannot be spayed till 13 weeks after the birth of the kittens. Can she be spayed now? -- P.G., via e-mail

A: Thirteen weeks after giving birth allows too much time for a cat to get pregnant again. And a cat will get pregnant again, given even the slightest opportunity.

Alley Cat Allies, a national group that promotes the humane management of feral cat colonies, recommends spaying the mother cat two weeks after the kittens start to be weaned, which happens between the ages of 4 and 6 weeks. So you need to get the mother cat in for surgery about six to eight weeks after giving birth. In other words, make the arrangements now.

I'm not clear on what is happening to the kittens. Is your friend finding homes for them? If so, please let her know that the kittens don't need to wait long to be neutered, as well. Early spay-neuter has been accepted as safe by veterinary societies and shelters everywhere, and it can be done on cats and dogs as young as 8 weeks of age.

And what if you end up waiting too long to spay your new pet? Although it's a more complicated (and as a result, more expensive) surgery, veterinarians can and routinely do spay pregnant pets.

Q: Our dog, a terrier, is not quite 2 years old, and her barking is very irritating. We tried a bark collar, but she just got used to it. We will be traveling with her this summer. We'll be staying in motels and want to have her debarked. We live near Wichita, Kan., and want to know who does debarking here. We feel we have no other choice. Also, she doesn't like kids and will try to bite them! -- J.W., via e-mail

A: I've known a considerable number of debarked dogs in my time, since I've done rescue work with a breed that's known for its yappiness -- Shetland sheepdogs. Debarked dogs usually are still capable of barking, except that their volume is greatly reduced by the surgical alteration of their vocal cords.

Like declawing, debarking is a highly controversial procedure. I never recommend either surgery as a quick fix, and I suggest that other behavior modifications be seriously tried before any animal be put through a painful procedure. That said, I recognize that declawing and debarking have saved the lives of many animals whose behavior put them on a fast track to homelessness.

Before you talk to your veterinarian about debarking, ask for a referral to a behaviorist who can help you work on all of your dog's problems. I know barking is a nuisance, but it's natural behavior for terriers, breeds that also end up on the top of the heap when it comes to yappiness. I'm much more concerned about your dog's biting attempts, though. You need a behaviorist for your dog, or you'll need a lawyer soon enough.

I'm no fan of collars that shock dogs. In the hands of experts, they can be an effective training tool. But they are misused and overused by the general public. For barking, I much prefer collars that react to the noise with a harmless puff of citronella spray right under the nose -- which dogs find extremely annoying. You can find these in many pet-supply stores, catalogs or Web sites, at a cost of about $120.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Some experts have credited the invention and improvement of cat-box fillers as the driving force behind the feline rise in popularity, and certainly such a case can be made.

Before absorbent fillers became widely used and accepted, cats were mostly outdoor pets that our kind didn't appreciate for their companionship as much as we should have. After modern litter took off, however, cats became an integral part of the lives of an ever-increasing number of people. The rest, as they say, is history: Cats rule!

Here are your choices when it comes to thinking inside the box.

-- Clay. More than a half-century old and still a significant part of the market, fillers made of clay started the cat on the road to popularity. Clay is one of the least-expensive options in terms of price per pound, but you need to use more of it because the material needs to be completely replaced weekly to combat bacteria and odors. To remain competitive, the makers of clay litters have done a great deal to make their products more attractive, with the addition of deodorizers, dust-reducers and more.

-- Clumping. Also called "scoopable" litter, clumping has a high level of popularity among both pets and their owners. These materials dissolve around the moisture in urine or feces, reforming as a lump encasing the mess, which can then be easily scooped, raked or sifted out. Because the entire mess is scooped out each time -- assuming the clump doesn't break -- odor problems are minimized.

Although clumping litters are more expensive per pound, they require you to use less because all you need do is replace the litter you've removed with the waste. Although clumping litter does need to be replaced eventually in its entirety, that chore doesn't need to be done as often as with clay litters.

Drawbacks to clumping litter include tracking problems, because the material that sticks to moisture on cat mess clings just as easily to moisture on cat paws. A mat around the box will help knock the granules off your pet's paws before they end up all over the house.

-- Alternative litters. There's no end to the creative minds that have been active in the creation of new cat-box fillers. You'll find products made from wood fiber, corn cobs or kernels, and pelleted newsprint and other materials (some of them recycled from other uses).

Because the range of products in this category is so varied, it's hard to generalize about them. Some of these products, such as the corn-based World's Best Cat Litter, collect marvelous reviews and a dedicated following, while others come and go quickly.

Which kind of cat-box filler should you choose? Each variety has its benefits and its followers. Clay litters maintain a hefty share of the market to this day, which says this industry-starter is obviously still the right choice for many cats. Clumping litter's ease of use has made it a popular choice, and many behaviorists say it's best in terms of what cats prefer. And I know of cats whose homes (and probably lives) have been saved by the use of an alternative product when nothing else could get them to use their boxes.

Today's choices of cat-box fillers are mind-boggling, and when choosing one, it's essential that you keep in mind who the real customer is here: your cat. It doesn't matter how much you like a filler for its no-tracking, low-dust or odor-control properties. If your cat doesn't like it, you'll be finding waste in places you neither anticipated nor wanted.

Find the brand your cat likes, and then keep the box scrupulously clean. It's the only way to go.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Maine Coon is one breed of purebred cat whose popularity has grown in recent years, which means some of these large, sweet-natured cats are turning up in shelters. Rescuing and finding new homes for these down-on-their-luck kitties is one of the goals of the Maine Coon Alliance Web site (http://mainecoonalliance.vjungle.com), which also offers information on the breed and few imaginative features as well.

THE SCOOP

Now that gardening season is in full swing, a lot of people are thinking about compost piles and wondering: Is it OK to recycle pet waste in this way? It depends on your pet. If you have a pet that eats plant matter -- rabbits, guinea pigs, rats, hamsters and mice fall into this category -- then sure, compost their waste. It'll be great for your garden.

The waste of carnivores such as dog and cats should never be composted, however, because it could carry disease. With these pets, put the waste into bags, wrap up tightly and put into your regular trash. I always use old pet-food bags for waste disposal -- they're sturdy enough to stand up to reuse before being discarded.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A few months ago I ran over my beloved cat in my driveway, and I've been having a hard time ever since, as you can imagine. Eventually I intend to get another pet, but the last two cats I've had both "adopted" me and were indoor-outdoor cats. I've never had a cat box except when they were spayed and needed to stay indoors for a while, and I have a cat door.

I've been worried about whether to have the same system with my next cat, and I was interested to read your column about moving cats. You seemed to indicate that it's a good thing to have a strictly indoor cat. Could you give me a little feedback on this? -- D.C., via e-mail

A: Yes, I do believe in keeping cats indoors, but I'm also enough of a realist to know that some people will always allow their cats to roam. I also trust that pet lovers always try to do what's best for their animals, and I believe that differences of opinion are what makes the world the interesting place that it is.

That said, there are compelling reasons for keeping cats indoors, and safety is tops among them. You are not the first person to have run over your cat -- I know of at least one other person in my extended circle of acquaintances, and at least a half-dozen readers in the last few years. And your own car certainly isn't the only risk out there.

Outdoor cats are run over by cars, attacked by dogs and coyotes, trapped intentionally by cat-hating neighbors, and trapped unintentionally by cat-neutral garages, outbuildings and basements. They get into poisons, contract diseases from other cats, and end up with painful and expensive injuries following cat fights. Seeking warmth, cats become injured when they snuggle up in still-warm car engines.

People who resent cat mess in their gardens or paw prints across their cars argue that cats are a nuisance. Free-roaming felines can also be a threat to birds and other prey animals, some of whom may be endangered. (Although to be fair, the biggest threat to these birds and small animals isn't cats, but the claiming of habitat for development or livestock grazing, here and in developing countries.) You might also be breaking the law by letting your cat out, since many communities have established laws against free-roaming cats.

Cats live longer, healthier lives inside, but can they also find happiness? Yes! Make sure your pet has a good cat tree, lots of toys and plenty of your attention. A screened-in porch or other safe access to fresh air is also tops on the list, but many cats do fine without them.

Converting a cat to the indoor life can be a trial for you both, but it can be done with patience and persistence. It's by far easier, though, to start a cat or kitten out indoors from the first day in a new home.

Q: Can you please explain how to put on a choke collar properly? I'm tired of seeing people walking their dogs with it on wrong. -- C.N., via e-mail

A: With the dog sitting on your left, make a downward facing "P" out of the collar, with the base of the letter on your side. Then slip the collar over the dog's head. The moving end of the collar should go over the dog's neck, not under it. If it's put on incorrectly, the collar will not release easily when the leash is slackened.

The choke collar is one of the most difficult pieces of training equipment to use properly, which is why I have in recent years discouraged its use. Newer products such as head halters are easier to use and provide control with less strain on the dog.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Spring can be sneaky when it comes to putting your pet at risk. That's because heat can cause problems for pets, even on days that we would consider merely warm.

Dogs are most vulnerable. We get comfortable with taking our dogs on errands in the cooler months, leaving them in the car while we run into the grocery, dry cleaner or pharmacy. While no intelligent pet owner would leave a dog in the car on a day in the 90s or above, it's easy not to realize the risk when the temperature is in the 70s and 80s.

The trouble is, a temperature that's pleasant outside of the car could end up being very hot inside, even with the windows cracked. Cars are like greenhouses, collecting heat through the glass of their windows and allowing it to build up inside. Even on days in the 70s or 80s, a car in the sunshine can become uncomfortably warm -- and even deadly if left long enough. Dogs are not efficient at cooling themselves and can die quickly in a hot car.

The best solution? Leave your dog at home. It's not all that great an idea to leave your dog in the car even when warm weather isn't a problem. Pet thieves aren't all that common, but they are out there (as are car thieves, who won't care a jot about your pet if your vehicle is stolen).

Hot cars aren't the only heat danger -- exercise is another. Many of us get a wild hair about exercising in the spring, sometimes starting running programs that neither people nor dogs are fit enough to start. Whether you're an established exerciser or a beginner, remember that in warm weather it's better to take your dog out in the cool of morning, and then build up your time and distance slowly.

If your pet is old or overweight, don't start until checking with your veterinarian. Exercise is great for you and your dog, but only if done properly and with an eye toward safety.

Here are some additional springtime safety tips for all pets.

-- Keep caged pets from overheating. Make sure cages for birds, reptiles and small mammals are placed in an area that's well-lighted but out of the direct sun. Pets who are kept in cages have no ability to leave an area if it becomes too hot, so it's up to us to make sure their environment is comfortable.

-- Make sure pets always have clean, fresh water. Dishes and water bottles should be emptied, rinsed and refilled a couple of times a day. A thorough cleaning with warm soapy water (rinse well) should be done at least weekly. Check water bottles frequently by pressing your finger against the tip to make sure there is no blockage. Some clever parrots love to make a game out of pushing food into the steel neck of water bottles, so be on alert if yours is one of these tricksters.

-- Beware of chemical hazards. Spring is a great time for shade-tree mechanics to work on their cars, but be sure to carefully clean up any spills. Most deadly among the car-related fluids is coolant. A cat can die after walking through an antifreeze spill and then cleaning the liquid off his paws. In recent years, products have come on the market that are not so lethal; check them out at your auto-supply store.

Household chemicals claim unintended victims every year as well. Keep pets out of areas where snail bait, insecticides or poisons intended for rodents are in use. As for herbicides and fertilizers, follow directions carefully and do not allow pets into a treated area until the chemicals have dried.

Spring is a wonderful time of year, and you and your pet will enjoy it more if you take a few preventive measures to ensure that the season will be a safe one.

PETS ON THE WEB

Dogs who hunt by locating prey with their eyes instead of their nose are called sight hounds, and the category includes breeds who are the canine equivalent of the cheetah -- long of leg and body, and built to run fast. The best-known of these breeds is arguably the greyhound, but there are others, such as the Irish wolfhound, Afghan hound, borzoi, whippet and saluki. The 20-20 Hound Site Web page (http://log.on.ca/canine/2020houndsight/index.html) celebrates these elegant dogs, and provides information on the breeds and on the sports in which they compete.

Don't look here for information on upcoming competitions, as the calendar page has not been updated for 2001. And in the breeds area, you'll find some holes in the information offered. But you'll still find plenty of value, including breed profiles, articles on coursing, and plenty of gorgeous pictures of sight hounds at full speed.

THE SCOOP

Iguanas should be fed plant matter only, a mixture of vegetation that's high in calcium but low in phosphorus and fat. Choices include mustard, collard and turnip greens, as well as yams, carrots, alfalfa sprouts, alfalfa hay (or pellets) and squash. Dog and cat food is a no-no.

Chop fresh or frozen vegetables into a size that can be easily handled by the pet. Mix it and then store it in the refrigerator or an airtight container. Offer small amounts twice a day, and sprinkle the food with a vitamin supplement, available at a good pet store.

An outstanding book for anyone with an iggie is "Iguanas for Dummies" by Melissa Kaplan ($19.99, Hungry Minds Inc.). I've known Melissa for years, and I've always relied on her for my iguana information. She's also behind the best reptilian Internet site around, www.anapsid.org.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Do you know whether a dog's mouth is generally cleaner than a human's? I have heard it said that a dog will lick a sore and that will help heal it. And some people say that a dog's mouth is cleaner than a human's. Are these old wives' tales? -- J.F., via e-mail

A. I brush my teeth two or three times a day and visit the dentist every six months for a thorough cleaning. My oldest dog, Andy, gets his teeth brushed a couple of times a week (if he and I are in the mood for it) and has his teeth cleaned annually. My younger retrievers have never had their teeth brushed or cleaned, although they do have them examined annually by our veterinarian. (Small dogs like my Andy, a Sheltie, are more prone to tartar buildup and usually need more dental care than do larger ones.)

All of my dogs (and most dogs I know) cannot pass up any opportunity to munch on the solid contents of cat boxes, or eat any other kind of poop, rotting food or other disgusting item they find on walks.

I don't know about you, but I wouldn't put any money on the superior cleanliness of the canine mouth. And I wouldn't allow the tongue of my dog near an open cut. Yuck!

Q: I have a cat who had a litter recently. Three are black and white (as she is), one is a calico female, and the other is a calico male. Is this a kitten I should give away? I know male calicoes are rare, and most are sterile. But with the rarity, should he go to someone who breeds cats? -- M.C., via e-mail

A: Like all of your kittens, he should be placed into a loving home and be neutered. (Make sure the momma is spayed, too, so she won't be contributing further to the pet overpopulation problem.) Male calicoes and the genetically similar tortoiseshells are indeed rare -- about one in every 3,000 of these cats is male -- but have no value to a breeder.

You can't breed a male calico and get more male calicoes for a couple of reasons. First, you're right in your understanding that male calicoes and torties are often sterile. Second, they're not "normal" males but are genetic oddities whose uniqueness cannot be passed along.

Male calicoes and torties are what's called "Klinefelter" males, and have both the Y and X chromosomes of normal males, plus a bonus -- an extra X. The two X chromosomes are what allow the calico or tortie pattern to be present, while the XY combination is what allows these cats to have male attributes.

The person you place the kitten with will have a wonderful companion and a bit of a conversation piece, but nothing beyond that.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600