Spring can be sneaky when it comes to putting your pet at risk. That's because heat can cause problems for pets, even on days that we would consider merely warm.

Dogs are most vulnerable. We get comfortable with taking our dogs on errands in the cooler months, leaving them in the car while we run into the grocery, dry cleaner or pharmacy. While no intelligent pet owner would leave a dog in the car on a day in the 90s or above, it's easy not to realize the risk when the temperature is in the 70s and 80s.

The trouble is, a temperature that's pleasant outside of the car could end up being very hot inside, even with the windows cracked. Cars are like greenhouses, collecting heat through the glass of their windows and allowing it to build up inside. Even on days in the 70s or 80s, a car in the sunshine can become uncomfortably warm -- and even deadly if left long enough. Dogs are not efficient at cooling themselves and can die quickly in a hot car.

The best solution? Leave your dog at home. It's not all that great an idea to leave your dog in the car even when warm weather isn't a problem. Pet thieves aren't all that common, but they are out there (as are car thieves, who won't care a jot about your pet if your vehicle is stolen).

Hot cars aren't the only heat danger -- exercise is another. Many of us get a wild hair about exercising in the spring, sometimes starting running programs that neither people nor dogs are fit enough to start. Whether you're an established exerciser or a beginner, remember that in warm weather it's better to take your dog out in the cool of morning, and then build up your time and distance slowly.

If your pet is old or overweight, don't start until checking with your veterinarian. Exercise is great for you and your dog, but only if done properly and with an eye toward safety.

Here are some additional springtime safety tips for all pets.

-- Keep caged pets from overheating. Make sure cages for birds, reptiles and small mammals are placed in an area that's well-lighted but out of the direct sun. Pets who are kept in cages have no ability to leave an area if it becomes too hot, so it's up to us to make sure their environment is comfortable.

-- Make sure pets always have clean, fresh water. Dishes and water bottles should be emptied, rinsed and refilled a couple of times a day. A thorough cleaning with warm soapy water (rinse well) should be done at least weekly. Check water bottles frequently by pressing your finger against the tip to make sure there is no blockage. Some clever parrots love to make a game out of pushing food into the steel neck of water bottles, so be on alert if yours is one of these tricksters.

-- Beware of chemical hazards. Spring is a great time for shade-tree mechanics to work on their cars, but be sure to carefully clean up any spills. Most deadly among the car-related fluids is coolant. A cat can die after walking through an antifreeze spill and then cleaning the liquid off his paws. In recent years, products have come on the market that are not so lethal; check them out at your auto-supply store.

Household chemicals claim unintended victims every year as well. Keep pets out of areas where snail bait, insecticides or poisons intended for rodents are in use. As for herbicides and fertilizers, follow directions carefully and do not allow pets into a treated area until the chemicals have dried.

Spring is a wonderful time of year, and you and your pet will enjoy it more if you take a few preventive measures to ensure that the season will be a safe one.

PETS ON THE WEB

Dogs who hunt by locating prey with their eyes instead of their nose are called sight hounds, and the category includes breeds who are the canine equivalent of the cheetah -- long of leg and body, and built to run fast. The best-known of these breeds is arguably the greyhound, but there are others, such as the Irish wolfhound, Afghan hound, borzoi, whippet and saluki. The 20-20 Hound Site Web page (http://log.on.ca/canine/2020houndsight/index.html) celebrates these elegant dogs, and provides information on the breeds and on the sports in which they compete.

Don't look here for information on upcoming competitions, as the calendar page has not been updated for 2001. And in the breeds area, you'll find some holes in the information offered. But you'll still find plenty of value, including breed profiles, articles on coursing, and plenty of gorgeous pictures of sight hounds at full speed.

THE SCOOP

Iguanas should be fed plant matter only, a mixture of vegetation that's high in calcium but low in phosphorus and fat. Choices include mustard, collard and turnip greens, as well as yams, carrots, alfalfa sprouts, alfalfa hay (or pellets) and squash. Dog and cat food is a no-no.

Chop fresh or frozen vegetables into a size that can be easily handled by the pet. Mix it and then store it in the refrigerator or an airtight container. Offer small amounts twice a day, and sprinkle the food with a vitamin supplement, available at a good pet store.

An outstanding book for anyone with an iggie is "Iguanas for Dummies" by Melissa Kaplan ($19.99, Hungry Minds Inc.). I've known Melissa for years, and I've always relied on her for my iguana information. She's also behind the best reptilian Internet site around, www.anapsid.org.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Do you know whether a dog's mouth is generally cleaner than a human's? I have heard it said that a dog will lick a sore and that will help heal it. And some people say that a dog's mouth is cleaner than a human's. Are these old wives' tales? -- J.F., via e-mail

A. I brush my teeth two or three times a day and visit the dentist every six months for a thorough cleaning. My oldest dog, Andy, gets his teeth brushed a couple of times a week (if he and I are in the mood for it) and has his teeth cleaned annually. My younger retrievers have never had their teeth brushed or cleaned, although they do have them examined annually by our veterinarian. (Small dogs like my Andy, a Sheltie, are more prone to tartar buildup and usually need more dental care than do larger ones.)

All of my dogs (and most dogs I know) cannot pass up any opportunity to munch on the solid contents of cat boxes, or eat any other kind of poop, rotting food or other disgusting item they find on walks.

I don't know about you, but I wouldn't put any money on the superior cleanliness of the canine mouth. And I wouldn't allow the tongue of my dog near an open cut. Yuck!

Q: I have a cat who had a litter recently. Three are black and white (as she is), one is a calico female, and the other is a calico male. Is this a kitten I should give away? I know male calicoes are rare, and most are sterile. But with the rarity, should he go to someone who breeds cats? -- M.C., via e-mail

A: Like all of your kittens, he should be placed into a loving home and be neutered. (Make sure the momma is spayed, too, so she won't be contributing further to the pet overpopulation problem.) Male calicoes and the genetically similar tortoiseshells are indeed rare -- about one in every 3,000 of these cats is male -- but have no value to a breeder.

You can't breed a male calico and get more male calicoes for a couple of reasons. First, you're right in your understanding that male calicoes and torties are often sterile. Second, they're not "normal" males but are genetic oddities whose uniqueness cannot be passed along.

Male calicoes and torties are what's called "Klinefelter" males, and have both the Y and X chromosomes of normal males, plus a bonus -- an extra X. The two X chromosomes are what allow the calico or tortie pattern to be present, while the XY combination is what allows these cats to have male attributes.

The person you place the kitten with will have a wonderful companion and a bit of a conversation piece, but nothing beyond that.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The dogs and I just finished a six-month stay on the Gulf Coast of Florida, south of the now-famous (or should that be infamous?) city of Tallahassee. We endured the largest collection of news media since the O.J. Simpson trial, spring storms that took out trailer parks with startling regularity, and tourists who insisted on walking the stretch of beach we came to think of as ours and ours alone.

Make no mistake: We had a wonderful time. The retrievers, especially, believed the place to be paradise and spent as much time as possible dripping wet.

Still, there is no place like home. So when the cheap winter lodging rates ended, I packed up the van and drove back to Northern California -- where I haven't stopped sneezing and wheezing since. First stop: my doctor.

Although there are allergists who refuse to treat people who won't dump their pets, I've been fortunate over the years to find those who are willing to work with me. Because of them, I've been able to lead the life I want, even though I've always been allergic to animals.

Many animal lovers have the same problems I do. For them, my advice starts with finding an allergist who doesn't greet you with, "First, find new homes for your pets." In some cases, that will unfortunately be the ultimate resolution of the problem. But it needn't be the starting point for attacking animal allergies. It's your life, after all.

Here are some other tips for living with animals and allergies, recommend by allergists and field-tested by yours truly.

-- Don't neglect your other allergies. Controlling them may give you enough "breathing room" to make life with your pets bearable. Remember always that allergies and asthma are serious health problems, not to be taken lightly.

-- Don't go it alone: Find a doctor who will help you, pets and all.

-- Establish your bedroom as an "allergy-free zone." More than one-third of our lives is spent sleeping, and it's important to make that time less stressful for the body.

Close off your bedroom and reduce dust-collecting surfaces by removing carpets and rugs, wall hangings, stuffed animals and collectibles from the room. Invest in an air cleaner, and keep air ducts and ceiling fans clean. Banish feather pillows and down comforters. Use zippered, dustproof covers on the mattress and pillows. Combat dust mites by washing bedding frequently in hot water.

Make the bedroom completely off-limits to pets at all times. Although there's not a pet lover alive who doesn't enjoy a purring cat on the bed, keeping the bedroom allergy-free is probably a necessary compromise for allergy sufferers.

-- Try to limit exposure to other allergens. Avoid cleaning solutions, cigarette smoke and strong perfumes, and consider using a mask when doing yard work and housework, especially at the height of the pollen season. Better yet: Let someone else mow the lawn and do the vacuuming.

-- Keep your pets clean and well-groomed. The best situation is for a nonallergic member of the family to take over these pet-care chores. Weekly bathing is a must -- for cats as well as dogs. For cats, you don't even need to use soap. A rinse with clear water has been shown to be just as effective in keeping down allergen levels.

I spent the first few days at home thinking that only fresh ocean air would do the trick for my sneezing and wheezing, but then my allergy-control plan kicked in and the situation improved dramatically. Besides, the Gulf Coast may be paradise for part of the year, but the hot, humid summers are tailor-made for mold that is just as difficult for me to deal with as is pollen.

The dogs may miss the beach, but I will be thankful for the dry California heat, just as soon as the pollen levels drop.

PETS ON THE WEB

Will this be the year California finally legalizes the keeping of ferrets as pets? Chances are looking better than they have in years that this ridiculous ban will be lifted. Ferrets are legal pets almost everywhere else -- Hawaii is the only other state that prohibits them. And even with the ban, California ferret-fanciers estimate that more than half a million of the domesticated weasels live in the Golden State.

Californians for Ferret Legalization is a group at the heart of the fight, and their Web site (www.ferretnews.org) is full of information on their struggles. If you love ferrets, it's worth a look. If you're a California ferret-fancier, now is the time to step up and be heard. The Web site offers tips on how to contact the right decision-maker and the most effective way to do so.

THE SCOOP

Ferret fans have specific terms for their pets, starting with "hob" for an unneutered male ferret and "jill" for an unspayed female. Babies are called "kits," and the correct terms for altered adults are gibs (males) and sprites (females). Most charming of all, a group of these playful pets is called a "business" of ferrets (although some people use "busyness" instead).

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We got a Viszla puppy recently, and her breeder said it's very important that we get our pup into a puppy class for socialization and early training. But then we took Sasha to our veterinarian, and she said we should keep our puppy away from other dogs until after she has had her last puppy shot (at 4 months). Who's right: the breeder or the veterinarian? -- P.O., via e-mail

A: Both of them, really. Your breeder is right that it's essential for your puppy be socialized, and that a well-run puppy class is the best place to get your new family member off to the best possible start. And your veterinarian is also correct in saying that your puppy needs to be protected from disease until she is fully immunized.

Fortunately, you can protect your puppy from disease and still socialize your pet in a puppy class. That's because good puppy classes present minimal risk of contagious disease to the canine participants.

Whoa! I can already see readers stopping on the phrase "minimal risk." Perhaps I'd better say "acceptable" risk. Or even "comparable" risk, if you'll follow along to find out why.

There's nothing as important in a dog's life as getting off to a good start in terms of training and behavior. Dogs end up homeless because of poor behavior, and many such problems can be traced to a puppyhood without the proper training and socialization. It's always easier to prevent a behavior problem than to fix one, and that's why puppy classes are worth that "minimal" risk.

If you look at it from a lifetime perspective, a dog is more likely to die from behavior problems than from disease. A pup's best chance at becoming a well-loved member of a family rests heavily on how easy that animal is to live with over time. The adorable puppy who grows into an out-of-control or aggressive dog is a solid candidate for a trip to a shelter, where he'll be unlikely to land a second chance.

Puppy classes teach youngsters how to get along with other dogs, be handled by any number of people, and learn the basic lessons of good behavior, from sitting on command to keeping all four paws on the ground when greeting people. A good puppy class uses positive techniques to teach puppies that learning is fun and people are good. And that's a lesson for life.

While puppy classes are fine, heed your veterinarian's advice and keep your pup away from other areas where other dogs frequent, such as parks. It's fine, though, to set up play dates in secure yards that have been inhabited by healthy dogs who are known to be up-to-date on their vaccines. The dogs of your friends and family are great for these socializing get-togethers, as are the children. The more your puppy is safely exposed to, the better.

Q: Please settle an argument for me. Do cats need baths? -- G.K., via e-mail

A: Not usually. Most healthy cats do a fine job of keeping themselves clean and well-groomed.

If you have someone in your home with allergies, a weekly dousing with cool, clear water can help. Otherwise, your cat can stay bath-free unless he gets into something he can't get out of without a little help from some soap and water.

Brushing is probably more useful than bathing for helping to keep your cat in fine shape, especially for longhaired animals. The silky coats of some longhaired breeds is too much for a cat to handle, and brushing regularly is necessary to keep that glorious fur clear of mats.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the most pervasive myths about cats is that they care more about places than people. This idea is surely based on how free-roaming cats have a difficult time leaving a home behind and will travel blocks, or even miles, to return to old stomping grounds.

Cats are highly territorial and will seek out familiar places when stressed, which is why they attempt to return to their old homes. But they'll be much happier going where you go if you take steps to ease their transition from one home to another.

While you'll never manage a stress-free move for either you or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your pet secure before, during and after the move, and then by allowing your pet to gradually adapt to his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a "safe room" before and after the move, and transport him from one house to another in a secure carrier. The ideal safe room is a spare bedroom or bathroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and where he can be outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet. He'll be more relaxed in a small space where he won't be subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping around his house with the family belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping outside, which is a danger at both the old and new home. A frightened cat may be hard to locate on the day of the move if you don't make sure he's somewhere you can put your hands on him.

When you get to your new home, leave the carrier, with its door removed, in the safe room. Close the door to the room and leave him be while you unpack. Coaxing him out of the carrier with treats and praise is fine, but let him choose when and how much of the safe room he wants to explore. Never drag him out -- you'll upset your cat, and you might get scratched or bitten.

A couple of days after you've unpacked and things have settled down, open the door to the safe room so your cat can explore the rest of the house. Even if you plan to let him outside, keep him in for a couple of weeks. He needs to stay inside to start forming a bond with his new surroundings. Better still, make the most of the opportunity offered by a move and convert your pet to indoor-only status. Your new neighbors will appreciate it, and your cat will live a longer, safer life.

It's relatively easy to make the conversion in a new home. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change with little fuss. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert to indoor-only is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit and re-mark it. A newly moved cat will learn to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it as much.

Above all, don't rush your cat through a move. Confinement during the transition is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in his small safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

PETS ON THE WEB

Anyone who's thinking about buying or adopting a purebred dog must be aware of which inherited diseases are common in the breed or breeds under consideration. Such maladies are common in purebreds and can lead to expensive veterinary care, temperament problems and shortened or pain-filled lives.

The Canine Inherited Disorders Database (www.upei.ca/(tilde)cidd/intro.htm) offers pet lovers the information they need to help make an intelligent choice, and it reinforces the necessity of dealing only with a reputable, experienced breeder when looking for a purebred dog.

The site is still in development. For example, information on inherited diseases is thorough and complete, but not yet cross-referenced by breed. Yet this well-written, easy-to-navigate site is one that pet lovers, dog breeders and veterinarians should bookmark for future reference.

THE SCOOP

Unwanted offspring aren't the only reason why it's important to spay or neuter pet rabbits. Just as with altering dogs and cats, altering rabbits eliminates many health and behavior problems.

Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's life span, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine.

Spaying and neutering are riskier for rabbits than they are for dogs and cats because anesthesia is a little trickier. Be sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits, and ask about anesthesia, listening for the magic word "Isoflurane," which is preferred for use with rabbits. The final safety precaution is yours: Follow your veterinarian's pre- and post-operative directions precisely.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our daughter, who has just turned 9, has been bugging us for a pet of her own, and she wants a mouse, hamster or bunny. Do you have a preference as to which makes the best pet for a child her age? -- G.M., via e-mail

A: Yes, and it's not a mouse, hamster or rabbit. Although these have all been popular children's pets for years, I prefer to recommend a rat.

Mice are often shy, and hamsters tend to be nippy. Both of these pets are also a little small for children to handle -- it's easy to drop these tiny creatures, especially mice. Rabbits are difficult for children to learn how to hold properly, and they have backs that are easily broken if their lower bodies and legs are not well-supported when held.

A well-cared-for and properly socialized pet rat is outgoing, playful and inquisitive. It can even be taught a few tricks, and it's of a size that's easy for a child to handle. If you look around, you may also be able to find breeders who are working to produce rats of many different coat markings, types and lengths. The life span of a well-cared-for rat is two to three years, and their care requirements are well within the capabilities of any child over the age of 8 or so.

The problem with pet rats is usually parental in origin. Some people just can't stand to look at those long, hairless tails and shudder at the very mention of a rat. Whatever you think of wild rats, the same doesn't apply when talking about their domesticated cousins. Pet rats aren't even dirty. They prefer to stay neat and will thrive in a clean environment. Give a rat a chance. You'll find they're quite the pet, indeed.

Remember that as a parent you must take the final responsibility for the care of any pet. Oversee your child's handling of the animal, and make sure the needs of the pet are covered. If you act as though the pet is something that can be neglected and easily discarded, you're sending an awful message to your child. Yes, pets can help a child learn to take responsibility, but they can also help children to learn to protect the welfare of other living beings. Don't neglect your opportunity to provide the lesson of caring to your child.

Q: Will you please warn your readers to make sure to keep all sewing or knitting projects put away when not working on them? We just lost a kitten that decided to play with a needle and thread, and wound up swallowing both. -- P.W., via e-mail

A: I shudder every time I see an advertisement or greeting card showing a kitten playing with a ball of yarn, since every such image surely allows pet lovers to remain blissfully ignorant of the dangers in just such a plaything. Kittens and cats love to play with string, ribbon, thread and yarn, but if they ingest any such material, they could end up in real trouble. The substance may need to be surgically removed, or may go undetected until it's too late.

While it's fine to play toy-on-a-string with your cat or kitten, make sure you put the toy away when you cannot supervise. And be sure that every craft project that involves stringy material is picked up and stored where your pet cannot find it.

A related danger is the string that holds a roast together. Saturated with meat juices, it may prove irresistible to the cat who can get at it in a garbage pail, so make sure it's disposed of in a manner that keeps your pet safe.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600