The dogs and I just finished a six-month stay on the Gulf Coast of Florida, south of the now-famous (or should that be infamous?) city of Tallahassee. We endured the largest collection of news media since the O.J. Simpson trial, spring storms that took out trailer parks with startling regularity, and tourists who insisted on walking the stretch of beach we came to think of as ours and ours alone.

Make no mistake: We had a wonderful time. The retrievers, especially, believed the place to be paradise and spent as much time as possible dripping wet.

Still, there is no place like home. So when the cheap winter lodging rates ended, I packed up the van and drove back to Northern California -- where I haven't stopped sneezing and wheezing since. First stop: my doctor.

Although there are allergists who refuse to treat people who won't dump their pets, I've been fortunate over the years to find those who are willing to work with me. Because of them, I've been able to lead the life I want, even though I've always been allergic to animals.

Many animal lovers have the same problems I do. For them, my advice starts with finding an allergist who doesn't greet you with, "First, find new homes for your pets." In some cases, that will unfortunately be the ultimate resolution of the problem. But it needn't be the starting point for attacking animal allergies. It's your life, after all.

Here are some other tips for living with animals and allergies, recommend by allergists and field-tested by yours truly.

-- Don't neglect your other allergies. Controlling them may give you enough "breathing room" to make life with your pets bearable. Remember always that allergies and asthma are serious health problems, not to be taken lightly.

-- Don't go it alone: Find a doctor who will help you, pets and all.

-- Establish your bedroom as an "allergy-free zone." More than one-third of our lives is spent sleeping, and it's important to make that time less stressful for the body.

Close off your bedroom and reduce dust-collecting surfaces by removing carpets and rugs, wall hangings, stuffed animals and collectibles from the room. Invest in an air cleaner, and keep air ducts and ceiling fans clean. Banish feather pillows and down comforters. Use zippered, dustproof covers on the mattress and pillows. Combat dust mites by washing bedding frequently in hot water.

Make the bedroom completely off-limits to pets at all times. Although there's not a pet lover alive who doesn't enjoy a purring cat on the bed, keeping the bedroom allergy-free is probably a necessary compromise for allergy sufferers.

-- Try to limit exposure to other allergens. Avoid cleaning solutions, cigarette smoke and strong perfumes, and consider using a mask when doing yard work and housework, especially at the height of the pollen season. Better yet: Let someone else mow the lawn and do the vacuuming.

-- Keep your pets clean and well-groomed. The best situation is for a nonallergic member of the family to take over these pet-care chores. Weekly bathing is a must -- for cats as well as dogs. For cats, you don't even need to use soap. A rinse with clear water has been shown to be just as effective in keeping down allergen levels.

I spent the first few days at home thinking that only fresh ocean air would do the trick for my sneezing and wheezing, but then my allergy-control plan kicked in and the situation improved dramatically. Besides, the Gulf Coast may be paradise for part of the year, but the hot, humid summers are tailor-made for mold that is just as difficult for me to deal with as is pollen.

The dogs may miss the beach, but I will be thankful for the dry California heat, just as soon as the pollen levels drop.

PETS ON THE WEB

Will this be the year California finally legalizes the keeping of ferrets as pets? Chances are looking better than they have in years that this ridiculous ban will be lifted. Ferrets are legal pets almost everywhere else -- Hawaii is the only other state that prohibits them. And even with the ban, California ferret-fanciers estimate that more than half a million of the domesticated weasels live in the Golden State.

Californians for Ferret Legalization is a group at the heart of the fight, and their Web site (www.ferretnews.org) is full of information on their struggles. If you love ferrets, it's worth a look. If you're a California ferret-fancier, now is the time to step up and be heard. The Web site offers tips on how to contact the right decision-maker and the most effective way to do so.

THE SCOOP

Ferret fans have specific terms for their pets, starting with "hob" for an unneutered male ferret and "jill" for an unspayed female. Babies are called "kits," and the correct terms for altered adults are gibs (males) and sprites (females). Most charming of all, a group of these playful pets is called a "business" of ferrets (although some people use "busyness" instead).

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We got a Viszla puppy recently, and her breeder said it's very important that we get our pup into a puppy class for socialization and early training. But then we took Sasha to our veterinarian, and she said we should keep our puppy away from other dogs until after she has had her last puppy shot (at 4 months). Who's right: the breeder or the veterinarian? -- P.O., via e-mail

A: Both of them, really. Your breeder is right that it's essential for your puppy be socialized, and that a well-run puppy class is the best place to get your new family member off to the best possible start. And your veterinarian is also correct in saying that your puppy needs to be protected from disease until she is fully immunized.

Fortunately, you can protect your puppy from disease and still socialize your pet in a puppy class. That's because good puppy classes present minimal risk of contagious disease to the canine participants.

Whoa! I can already see readers stopping on the phrase "minimal risk." Perhaps I'd better say "acceptable" risk. Or even "comparable" risk, if you'll follow along to find out why.

There's nothing as important in a dog's life as getting off to a good start in terms of training and behavior. Dogs end up homeless because of poor behavior, and many such problems can be traced to a puppyhood without the proper training and socialization. It's always easier to prevent a behavior problem than to fix one, and that's why puppy classes are worth that "minimal" risk.

If you look at it from a lifetime perspective, a dog is more likely to die from behavior problems than from disease. A pup's best chance at becoming a well-loved member of a family rests heavily on how easy that animal is to live with over time. The adorable puppy who grows into an out-of-control or aggressive dog is a solid candidate for a trip to a shelter, where he'll be unlikely to land a second chance.

Puppy classes teach youngsters how to get along with other dogs, be handled by any number of people, and learn the basic lessons of good behavior, from sitting on command to keeping all four paws on the ground when greeting people. A good puppy class uses positive techniques to teach puppies that learning is fun and people are good. And that's a lesson for life.

While puppy classes are fine, heed your veterinarian's advice and keep your pup away from other areas where other dogs frequent, such as parks. It's fine, though, to set up play dates in secure yards that have been inhabited by healthy dogs who are known to be up-to-date on their vaccines. The dogs of your friends and family are great for these socializing get-togethers, as are the children. The more your puppy is safely exposed to, the better.

Q: Please settle an argument for me. Do cats need baths? -- G.K., via e-mail

A: Not usually. Most healthy cats do a fine job of keeping themselves clean and well-groomed.

If you have someone in your home with allergies, a weekly dousing with cool, clear water can help. Otherwise, your cat can stay bath-free unless he gets into something he can't get out of without a little help from some soap and water.

Brushing is probably more useful than bathing for helping to keep your cat in fine shape, especially for longhaired animals. The silky coats of some longhaired breeds is too much for a cat to handle, and brushing regularly is necessary to keep that glorious fur clear of mats.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the most pervasive myths about cats is that they care more about places than people. This idea is surely based on how free-roaming cats have a difficult time leaving a home behind and will travel blocks, or even miles, to return to old stomping grounds.

Cats are highly territorial and will seek out familiar places when stressed, which is why they attempt to return to their old homes. But they'll be much happier going where you go if you take steps to ease their transition from one home to another.

While you'll never manage a stress-free move for either you or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your pet secure before, during and after the move, and then by allowing your pet to gradually adapt to his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a "safe room" before and after the move, and transport him from one house to another in a secure carrier. The ideal safe room is a spare bedroom or bathroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and where he can be outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet. He'll be more relaxed in a small space where he won't be subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping around his house with the family belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping outside, which is a danger at both the old and new home. A frightened cat may be hard to locate on the day of the move if you don't make sure he's somewhere you can put your hands on him.

When you get to your new home, leave the carrier, with its door removed, in the safe room. Close the door to the room and leave him be while you unpack. Coaxing him out of the carrier with treats and praise is fine, but let him choose when and how much of the safe room he wants to explore. Never drag him out -- you'll upset your cat, and you might get scratched or bitten.

A couple of days after you've unpacked and things have settled down, open the door to the safe room so your cat can explore the rest of the house. Even if you plan to let him outside, keep him in for a couple of weeks. He needs to stay inside to start forming a bond with his new surroundings. Better still, make the most of the opportunity offered by a move and convert your pet to indoor-only status. Your new neighbors will appreciate it, and your cat will live a longer, safer life.

It's relatively easy to make the conversion in a new home. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change with little fuss. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert to indoor-only is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit and re-mark it. A newly moved cat will learn to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it as much.

Above all, don't rush your cat through a move. Confinement during the transition is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in his small safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

PETS ON THE WEB

Anyone who's thinking about buying or adopting a purebred dog must be aware of which inherited diseases are common in the breed or breeds under consideration. Such maladies are common in purebreds and can lead to expensive veterinary care, temperament problems and shortened or pain-filled lives.

The Canine Inherited Disorders Database (www.upei.ca/(tilde)cidd/intro.htm) offers pet lovers the information they need to help make an intelligent choice, and it reinforces the necessity of dealing only with a reputable, experienced breeder when looking for a purebred dog.

The site is still in development. For example, information on inherited diseases is thorough and complete, but not yet cross-referenced by breed. Yet this well-written, easy-to-navigate site is one that pet lovers, dog breeders and veterinarians should bookmark for future reference.

THE SCOOP

Unwanted offspring aren't the only reason why it's important to spay or neuter pet rabbits. Just as with altering dogs and cats, altering rabbits eliminates many health and behavior problems.

Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's life span, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine.

Spaying and neutering are riskier for rabbits than they are for dogs and cats because anesthesia is a little trickier. Be sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits, and ask about anesthesia, listening for the magic word "Isoflurane," which is preferred for use with rabbits. The final safety precaution is yours: Follow your veterinarian's pre- and post-operative directions precisely.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our daughter, who has just turned 9, has been bugging us for a pet of her own, and she wants a mouse, hamster or bunny. Do you have a preference as to which makes the best pet for a child her age? -- G.M., via e-mail

A: Yes, and it's not a mouse, hamster or rabbit. Although these have all been popular children's pets for years, I prefer to recommend a rat.

Mice are often shy, and hamsters tend to be nippy. Both of these pets are also a little small for children to handle -- it's easy to drop these tiny creatures, especially mice. Rabbits are difficult for children to learn how to hold properly, and they have backs that are easily broken if their lower bodies and legs are not well-supported when held.

A well-cared-for and properly socialized pet rat is outgoing, playful and inquisitive. It can even be taught a few tricks, and it's of a size that's easy for a child to handle. If you look around, you may also be able to find breeders who are working to produce rats of many different coat markings, types and lengths. The life span of a well-cared-for rat is two to three years, and their care requirements are well within the capabilities of any child over the age of 8 or so.

The problem with pet rats is usually parental in origin. Some people just can't stand to look at those long, hairless tails and shudder at the very mention of a rat. Whatever you think of wild rats, the same doesn't apply when talking about their domesticated cousins. Pet rats aren't even dirty. They prefer to stay neat and will thrive in a clean environment. Give a rat a chance. You'll find they're quite the pet, indeed.

Remember that as a parent you must take the final responsibility for the care of any pet. Oversee your child's handling of the animal, and make sure the needs of the pet are covered. If you act as though the pet is something that can be neglected and easily discarded, you're sending an awful message to your child. Yes, pets can help a child learn to take responsibility, but they can also help children to learn to protect the welfare of other living beings. Don't neglect your opportunity to provide the lesson of caring to your child.

Q: Will you please warn your readers to make sure to keep all sewing or knitting projects put away when not working on them? We just lost a kitten that decided to play with a needle and thread, and wound up swallowing both. -- P.W., via e-mail

A: I shudder every time I see an advertisement or greeting card showing a kitten playing with a ball of yarn, since every such image surely allows pet lovers to remain blissfully ignorant of the dangers in just such a plaything. Kittens and cats love to play with string, ribbon, thread and yarn, but if they ingest any such material, they could end up in real trouble. The substance may need to be surgically removed, or may go undetected until it's too late.

While it's fine to play toy-on-a-string with your cat or kitten, make sure you put the toy away when you cannot supervise. And be sure that every craft project that involves stringy material is picked up and stored where your pet cannot find it.

A related danger is the string that holds a roast together. Saturated with meat juices, it may prove irresistible to the cat who can get at it in a garbage pail, so make sure it's disposed of in a manner that keeps your pet safe.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Every year huge numbers of adorable baby rabbits go to new homes for Easter, along with chicks and ducklings by the thousands. And that's bad news for the vast majority of these babies.

Most of these traditional Easter pets will be gifts for children, impulse purchases made with little thought given to the needs of the animals. No pet purchase is more likely to end tragically than one that's based on nothing more than cuteness.

Many of the chicks and ducklings will die within a few days or weeks, killed by neglect, improper care or unintentional mishandling by children. Those birds who do make it to adulthood are often turned loose to fend for themselves, once parents realize how unsuitable these farm animals are as urban and suburban pets.

Rabbits, on the other hand, can be wonderful pets, but only for those people who are prepared to care for them properly. Although it comes as a surprise to most people, rabbits are not well-suited to life as a children's pet, at least not for young children and never without adult supervision. Too many rabbits die from injuries caused by children who drop them or hold them in a way that can injure their backs, without the firm support they need for their lower bodies and hind legs.

And like other pets bought on impulse, a great many rabbits end up turned loose or dumped on shelters after the novelty wears off.

If you're tempted by the idea of a chick or duckling (picturing your child in Easter best holding a fluffy baby), please pay attention to the following words: Get over it. Unless you have rural property, you should not entertain the idea of buying a such a pet.

What about a rabbit? Now here's a possibility, and you'll never find more of them about than at this time of year. But again, you need to make the decision based not on impulse or on how much fun you think it would be to have a baby rabbit. You must consider the larger issues: Is your child ready for a pet? Do you have the time to show your child how to properly care for one and see that the chores involved are done whether or not the child wants to do them? Will you spend the money for housing, food and veterinary care? Are you willing to show your child how to handle a rabbit? Are you willing to ensure that it's done properly so the animal isn't injured? Finally, are you prepared to keep a full-grown rabbit for the rest of the animal's natural life?

If you cannot honestly see beyond the cries of delight on the day your child and baby bunny meet, do not bring home a rabbit. Buy a stuffed animal instead. One of these can take abuse and neglect with no problem more serious than an occasional ripped seam or detached shoe-button nose. They cannot feel pain, and they will not end up in a shelter.

In the short run, passing on a pet that will not hold your family's interest is important to the welfare of a single animal -- the one you would have bought. In the long run, teaching your child that animals are not to be picked up on a whim and discarded just as lightly is important to the welfare of all animals. Perhaps even more essential: Making sure children grow up learning to care about other living things is important to the welfare of us all.

One of my favorite sayings applies here: Teaching a child not to step on a caterpillar is as important to the child as it is to the caterpillar. The lessons of compassion and respect for all life could not be more appropriate than during this holiday season. Don't bungle your chance to make an important contribution to your child's education with the impulse purchase of a pet you will not cherish for life.

PETS ON THE WEB

The House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org) is the absolute best site on the Web for anyone looking for information on caring for these sweet-natured pets. Before the HRS, most of the information that was out there was of the 4-H variety -- from people who were raising rabbits for meat.

Thanks are due to the House Rabbit Society's members for helping others to realize the pet potential in these long-overlooked animals. The society's Web site offers information on everything from housing to nutrition to finding a bun-friendly veterinarian. If you have a rabbit or are thinking of getting one, you must do your research at this site first.

THE SCOOP

My dogs love to ride in the car! I don't know if it's the promise of adventure at the end of the road, or all those fine, fresh smells coming in through the windows, but even the senior canine resident will do a little bunny hop at the magic words, "Wanna go for a ride?"

If you plan to leave your dog in the car while you run errands, though, you'd better start disappointing your pet. That's because now is the time of year when it's getting too warm to leave your dog in a car.

Most people realize it's not safe to leave a dog in the car on a hot summer day, but fewer know that even a pleasant spring afternoon can be deadly. A car is like a greenhouse with all those windows, and heat can build up to lethal levels in a matter of minutes -- even when the temperature isn't all that high, even when the windows are cracked a little. Dogs aren't very efficient at lowering their internal temperature (panting is about the only mechanism they have), and they can quickly become overheated, or worse. Yes, it's fun to take your dog along, but play it safe and leave him home on warm, sunny days.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I read your article about crate-training a puppy. Would this work for an older dog? About five months ago we adopted a 4-year-old bichon frise because the owners were ill and had moved into long-term care. He is an intelligent and delightful dog to have, except that every week or two he defecates on the family room floor not far from the patio door. He knows that he has done wrong. The following morning, he refuses to come out from under the bed. Can you suggest a solution? -- F.M., via e-mail

A: Your dog does not know that he has done wrong. He's aware only that you're angry with him for some reason, and he'd better hide until the storm passes. Dogs don't understand cause-and-effect. Your pet doesn't think "I'll be in such trouble for doing this" while he's making the mess.

To train him, you must make it possible for him to make only good decisions by limiting his freedom and by praising him for getting it right. And yes, a crate is part of the solution.

Before you start insisting that your pet "hold it" for long periods of time (while you're at work or through the night), make sure he's physically capable of doing so. The first rule of solving any behavior problem is to make sure it's not a medical problem. That means a trip to your veterinarian to ensure your pet hasn't any illness that's making house-training difficult.

Once your dog has the veterinarian's clearance, bring some structure into his life. If you're free-feeding, stop immediately and change to two meals a day, morning and evening. Because canned food has a high water content, feed him only a high-quality kibble, which produces a smaller, less runny stool. Offer water freely during the day, but pick it up a couple of hours before bedtime.

Make sure you offer your pet regular opportunities to relieve himself, and don't just throw him outside. Go out with him every time, give him a command word -- I use "hurry up" with my dogs -- and then praise him to the stars when he goes. You want him to start making a positive connection for this behavior, with praise for a job well done.

Take him out one last time just before bed and crate him for the night. (Put the crate next to your bed so he's comforted by your company.) You didn't say you were having problems during the day, but if you are, never leave him unattended and out of sight in the house. He should either be crated, or be leashed to you so you can spot an accident at the first squat. If he starts to create a mess, interrupt him with a sharp "no" or hand clap. Then hustle outside with him and give your command word. Don't forget the praise when he finishes up outdoors.

After a few weeks of diligent adherence to monitoring your pet, you can start experimenting with giving him more freedom. It may be, though, that your pet will be better off crated at night for the rest of his life. This is not punishment: Dogs come to enjoy the security of their crates, and often will go into them voluntarily when it's time for a nap.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600