One of the most pervasive myths about cats is that they care more about places than people. This idea is surely based on how free-roaming cats have a difficult time leaving a home behind and will travel blocks, or even miles, to return to old stomping grounds.

Cats are highly territorial and will seek out familiar places when stressed, which is why they attempt to return to their old homes. But they'll be much happier going where you go if you take steps to ease their transition from one home to another.

While you'll never manage a stress-free move for either you or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your pet secure before, during and after the move, and then by allowing your pet to gradually adapt to his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a "safe room" before and after the move, and transport him from one house to another in a secure carrier. The ideal safe room is a spare bedroom or bathroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and where he can be outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet. He'll be more relaxed in a small space where he won't be subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping around his house with the family belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping outside, which is a danger at both the old and new home. A frightened cat may be hard to locate on the day of the move if you don't make sure he's somewhere you can put your hands on him.

When you get to your new home, leave the carrier, with its door removed, in the safe room. Close the door to the room and leave him be while you unpack. Coaxing him out of the carrier with treats and praise is fine, but let him choose when and how much of the safe room he wants to explore. Never drag him out -- you'll upset your cat, and you might get scratched or bitten.

A couple of days after you've unpacked and things have settled down, open the door to the safe room so your cat can explore the rest of the house. Even if you plan to let him outside, keep him in for a couple of weeks. He needs to stay inside to start forming a bond with his new surroundings. Better still, make the most of the opportunity offered by a move and convert your pet to indoor-only status. Your new neighbors will appreciate it, and your cat will live a longer, safer life.

It's relatively easy to make the conversion in a new home. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change with little fuss. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert to indoor-only is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit and re-mark it. A newly moved cat will learn to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it as much.

Above all, don't rush your cat through a move. Confinement during the transition is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in his small safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

PETS ON THE WEB

Anyone who's thinking about buying or adopting a purebred dog must be aware of which inherited diseases are common in the breed or breeds under consideration. Such maladies are common in purebreds and can lead to expensive veterinary care, temperament problems and shortened or pain-filled lives.

The Canine Inherited Disorders Database (www.upei.ca/(tilde)cidd/intro.htm) offers pet lovers the information they need to help make an intelligent choice, and it reinforces the necessity of dealing only with a reputable, experienced breeder when looking for a purebred dog.

The site is still in development. For example, information on inherited diseases is thorough and complete, but not yet cross-referenced by breed. Yet this well-written, easy-to-navigate site is one that pet lovers, dog breeders and veterinarians should bookmark for future reference.

THE SCOOP

Unwanted offspring aren't the only reason why it's important to spay or neuter pet rabbits. Just as with altering dogs and cats, altering rabbits eliminates many health and behavior problems.

Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's life span, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine.

Spaying and neutering are riskier for rabbits than they are for dogs and cats because anesthesia is a little trickier. Be sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits, and ask about anesthesia, listening for the magic word "Isoflurane," which is preferred for use with rabbits. The final safety precaution is yours: Follow your veterinarian's pre- and post-operative directions precisely.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our daughter, who has just turned 9, has been bugging us for a pet of her own, and she wants a mouse, hamster or bunny. Do you have a preference as to which makes the best pet for a child her age? -- G.M., via e-mail

A: Yes, and it's not a mouse, hamster or rabbit. Although these have all been popular children's pets for years, I prefer to recommend a rat.

Mice are often shy, and hamsters tend to be nippy. Both of these pets are also a little small for children to handle -- it's easy to drop these tiny creatures, especially mice. Rabbits are difficult for children to learn how to hold properly, and they have backs that are easily broken if their lower bodies and legs are not well-supported when held.

A well-cared-for and properly socialized pet rat is outgoing, playful and inquisitive. It can even be taught a few tricks, and it's of a size that's easy for a child to handle. If you look around, you may also be able to find breeders who are working to produce rats of many different coat markings, types and lengths. The life span of a well-cared-for rat is two to three years, and their care requirements are well within the capabilities of any child over the age of 8 or so.

The problem with pet rats is usually parental in origin. Some people just can't stand to look at those long, hairless tails and shudder at the very mention of a rat. Whatever you think of wild rats, the same doesn't apply when talking about their domesticated cousins. Pet rats aren't even dirty. They prefer to stay neat and will thrive in a clean environment. Give a rat a chance. You'll find they're quite the pet, indeed.

Remember that as a parent you must take the final responsibility for the care of any pet. Oversee your child's handling of the animal, and make sure the needs of the pet are covered. If you act as though the pet is something that can be neglected and easily discarded, you're sending an awful message to your child. Yes, pets can help a child learn to take responsibility, but they can also help children to learn to protect the welfare of other living beings. Don't neglect your opportunity to provide the lesson of caring to your child.

Q: Will you please warn your readers to make sure to keep all sewing or knitting projects put away when not working on them? We just lost a kitten that decided to play with a needle and thread, and wound up swallowing both. -- P.W., via e-mail

A: I shudder every time I see an advertisement or greeting card showing a kitten playing with a ball of yarn, since every such image surely allows pet lovers to remain blissfully ignorant of the dangers in just such a plaything. Kittens and cats love to play with string, ribbon, thread and yarn, but if they ingest any such material, they could end up in real trouble. The substance may need to be surgically removed, or may go undetected until it's too late.

While it's fine to play toy-on-a-string with your cat or kitten, make sure you put the toy away when you cannot supervise. And be sure that every craft project that involves stringy material is picked up and stored where your pet cannot find it.

A related danger is the string that holds a roast together. Saturated with meat juices, it may prove irresistible to the cat who can get at it in a garbage pail, so make sure it's disposed of in a manner that keeps your pet safe.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Every year huge numbers of adorable baby rabbits go to new homes for Easter, along with chicks and ducklings by the thousands. And that's bad news for the vast majority of these babies.

Most of these traditional Easter pets will be gifts for children, impulse purchases made with little thought given to the needs of the animals. No pet purchase is more likely to end tragically than one that's based on nothing more than cuteness.

Many of the chicks and ducklings will die within a few days or weeks, killed by neglect, improper care or unintentional mishandling by children. Those birds who do make it to adulthood are often turned loose to fend for themselves, once parents realize how unsuitable these farm animals are as urban and suburban pets.

Rabbits, on the other hand, can be wonderful pets, but only for those people who are prepared to care for them properly. Although it comes as a surprise to most people, rabbits are not well-suited to life as a children's pet, at least not for young children and never without adult supervision. Too many rabbits die from injuries caused by children who drop them or hold them in a way that can injure their backs, without the firm support they need for their lower bodies and hind legs.

And like other pets bought on impulse, a great many rabbits end up turned loose or dumped on shelters after the novelty wears off.

If you're tempted by the idea of a chick or duckling (picturing your child in Easter best holding a fluffy baby), please pay attention to the following words: Get over it. Unless you have rural property, you should not entertain the idea of buying a such a pet.

What about a rabbit? Now here's a possibility, and you'll never find more of them about than at this time of year. But again, you need to make the decision based not on impulse or on how much fun you think it would be to have a baby rabbit. You must consider the larger issues: Is your child ready for a pet? Do you have the time to show your child how to properly care for one and see that the chores involved are done whether or not the child wants to do them? Will you spend the money for housing, food and veterinary care? Are you willing to show your child how to handle a rabbit? Are you willing to ensure that it's done properly so the animal isn't injured? Finally, are you prepared to keep a full-grown rabbit for the rest of the animal's natural life?

If you cannot honestly see beyond the cries of delight on the day your child and baby bunny meet, do not bring home a rabbit. Buy a stuffed animal instead. One of these can take abuse and neglect with no problem more serious than an occasional ripped seam or detached shoe-button nose. They cannot feel pain, and they will not end up in a shelter.

In the short run, passing on a pet that will not hold your family's interest is important to the welfare of a single animal -- the one you would have bought. In the long run, teaching your child that animals are not to be picked up on a whim and discarded just as lightly is important to the welfare of all animals. Perhaps even more essential: Making sure children grow up learning to care about other living things is important to the welfare of us all.

One of my favorite sayings applies here: Teaching a child not to step on a caterpillar is as important to the child as it is to the caterpillar. The lessons of compassion and respect for all life could not be more appropriate than during this holiday season. Don't bungle your chance to make an important contribution to your child's education with the impulse purchase of a pet you will not cherish for life.

PETS ON THE WEB

The House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org) is the absolute best site on the Web for anyone looking for information on caring for these sweet-natured pets. Before the HRS, most of the information that was out there was of the 4-H variety -- from people who were raising rabbits for meat.

Thanks are due to the House Rabbit Society's members for helping others to realize the pet potential in these long-overlooked animals. The society's Web site offers information on everything from housing to nutrition to finding a bun-friendly veterinarian. If you have a rabbit or are thinking of getting one, you must do your research at this site first.

THE SCOOP

My dogs love to ride in the car! I don't know if it's the promise of adventure at the end of the road, or all those fine, fresh smells coming in through the windows, but even the senior canine resident will do a little bunny hop at the magic words, "Wanna go for a ride?"

If you plan to leave your dog in the car while you run errands, though, you'd better start disappointing your pet. That's because now is the time of year when it's getting too warm to leave your dog in a car.

Most people realize it's not safe to leave a dog in the car on a hot summer day, but fewer know that even a pleasant spring afternoon can be deadly. A car is like a greenhouse with all those windows, and heat can build up to lethal levels in a matter of minutes -- even when the temperature isn't all that high, even when the windows are cracked a little. Dogs aren't very efficient at lowering their internal temperature (panting is about the only mechanism they have), and they can quickly become overheated, or worse. Yes, it's fun to take your dog along, but play it safe and leave him home on warm, sunny days.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I read your article about crate-training a puppy. Would this work for an older dog? About five months ago we adopted a 4-year-old bichon frise because the owners were ill and had moved into long-term care. He is an intelligent and delightful dog to have, except that every week or two he defecates on the family room floor not far from the patio door. He knows that he has done wrong. The following morning, he refuses to come out from under the bed. Can you suggest a solution? -- F.M., via e-mail

A: Your dog does not know that he has done wrong. He's aware only that you're angry with him for some reason, and he'd better hide until the storm passes. Dogs don't understand cause-and-effect. Your pet doesn't think "I'll be in such trouble for doing this" while he's making the mess.

To train him, you must make it possible for him to make only good decisions by limiting his freedom and by praising him for getting it right. And yes, a crate is part of the solution.

Before you start insisting that your pet "hold it" for long periods of time (while you're at work or through the night), make sure he's physically capable of doing so. The first rule of solving any behavior problem is to make sure it's not a medical problem. That means a trip to your veterinarian to ensure your pet hasn't any illness that's making house-training difficult.

Once your dog has the veterinarian's clearance, bring some structure into his life. If you're free-feeding, stop immediately and change to two meals a day, morning and evening. Because canned food has a high water content, feed him only a high-quality kibble, which produces a smaller, less runny stool. Offer water freely during the day, but pick it up a couple of hours before bedtime.

Make sure you offer your pet regular opportunities to relieve himself, and don't just throw him outside. Go out with him every time, give him a command word -- I use "hurry up" with my dogs -- and then praise him to the stars when he goes. You want him to start making a positive connection for this behavior, with praise for a job well done.

Take him out one last time just before bed and crate him for the night. (Put the crate next to your bed so he's comforted by your company.) You didn't say you were having problems during the day, but if you are, never leave him unattended and out of sight in the house. He should either be crated, or be leashed to you so you can spot an accident at the first squat. If he starts to create a mess, interrupt him with a sharp "no" or hand clap. Then hustle outside with him and give your command word. Don't forget the praise when he finishes up outdoors.

After a few weeks of diligent adherence to monitoring your pet, you can start experimenting with giving him more freedom. It may be, though, that your pet will be better off crated at night for the rest of his life. This is not punishment: Dogs come to enjoy the security of their crates, and often will go into them voluntarily when it's time for a nap.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The woman in the Target store stared at me as slyly as she could, trying to figure out what it was I found so upsetting about an aisle of brightly colored plastic dishes.

In truth, I wasn't at all conscious of the merchandise. My tears were wholly related to five words I'd heard at the veterinary hospital not half an hour earlier, as my beloved old Sheltie yawned with boredom on the cool steel table, our veterinarian's face a study in concentration above the dog.

"I hear a heart murmur," the man had said.

As I struggled to focus on the shockingly red tumblers on the shelves before me, I became aware that my private worries were a little more public than I'd wanted. I managed a smile for the woman who'd been watching me.

"Allergies," I snuffled, wiping away the last tear and blowing my nose with what I hoped was a convincing honk. The woman sidled away as quickly as one can and still appear polite.

I gave up all thoughts of shopping and headed back to the hospital, where I'd left Andy with the veterinary cardiologist we'd been lucky enough to find on duty. "Let's let her check him out thoroughly, as long as she's here," our veterinarian had said, and I agreed quickly. I wanted to know exactly what was wrong and how bad it was.

Still, I'd used the trip to the store as an excuse to leave while they X-rayed Andy. I could feel the rising tide of tears as I fought to keep from imagining the worst possible ending, and I wanted to deal with it alone.

The appointment shouldn't have gone this way, I'd told our vet lightheartedly before I'd left, the humor a veneer over the panic I felt. I'd scheduled a "well-dog checkup," I told him firmly, and, by God, I intended to leave with just such a dog. I'd brought Andy in so our veterinarian could admire his dense, glistening coat and his beautiful teeth. I expected him to notice that my oldest dog was still alert, well-mannered and playful. "I can't believe Andy is 14!" I wanted him to say. "I rarely see a dog his age in such good health."

Instead, not one but two veterinarians had pressed their stethoscopes to Andy's chest, discussing the newfound leak in his loyal old heart -- where it was, how bad it was, what it meant.

As I sat in the reception area with Andy, waiting for the X-ray, I knew -- absolutely knew -- that it would show an enlarged heart with fluid around it. How much time was left for my sweet pup? A few months? A few weeks? I twisted Andy's long silver hair in the fingers of one hand, digging my nails painfully into the palm of the other. "No more crying. No more crying. No more crying," I told myself silently. I knew he'd had a good long run. If his time was near, so be it.

The specialist said my name twice before I finally looked up. She held the X-ray so the late-afternoon sun lighted the image. Pointing out Andy's heart, she swept her pen over a clear area around it -- no enlargement, no fluid, no tumors.

"These heart murmurs, they turn up in older dogs," she said. "His is mild, and it's nothing to worry about. We'll keep an eye on it, OK?"

I smiled and nodded, and she smiled back. "You weren't worried, were you?" she asked.

"Maybe a little," I admitted.

"I rarely see a dog his age in such good health," she said as she slipped through the door to the back.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Latham Foundation (www.latham.org) promotes humane education, including projects that involve animal-assisted therapy and celebrate the human-animal bond. Though their sponsorship, some wonderful videos have been produced that are well worth viewing by anyone who cares about animals and children. Recent work of the foundation focuses on breaking the well-documented link between abuse of animals by children and violent behavior later in life.

An especially interesting part of the site: Humane education posters from the late '40s, the result of a contest sponsored by the foundation. Clearly, this was a group ahead of its time. (The Latham Foundation can also be reached by writing to 1826 Clement Ave., Alameda, CA 95401; or by calling (510) 521-0920.)

THE SCOOP

Cats are highly territorial, which sometimes causes problems in multi-cat households. Every cat needs some space of his own to be happy, and one of the best ways to provide each of your pets with room to roam is to think "up."

Cats naturally adore looking down at others, and by giving your pets plenty of room up above to move about, you're giving each cat some room of his own. Tall furniture with flat tops -- such as bookcases or entertainment centers -- are ideal, as long as you leave room enough for your cats to play among the decorations. Even better: Invest in tall cat trees, especially those with platforms at the top and cubbyholes for hiding. Your cats will love them.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have four cats, and recently one or more of them has stopped using the litter box. Do you have any suggestions for how we can figure out which one? We need to get to the bottom of this messy problem. -- C.S., via e-mail

A: Even in the most harmonious of households a cat can stop using the litter box. Remember that it's not always about misbehavior: Sometimes a cat is sick. But which cat? In a multi-cat household, it can be very difficult to track down the culprit.

You can try to isolate the cat with problems by mixing blue or green food coloring with canned food and offering it to one cat at a time. You'll be able to tell which feces came from the "marked" cat because the food coloring will pass right through and stay on the mess.

Urine is a little harder to figure out, but your veterinarian should be able to help, or refer you to a veterinary behaviorist who can. You'll be prescribed fluorescent dye to give to your pet and a black light for revealing the dye in the urine.

Once you've determined which cat is the source of the problem, you'll need to work with your veterinarian to be sure the problem isn't health-related. Litter-box problems can be challenging to resolve, especially in a household with more than one cat. But you won't have any chance of getting past those problems until you're certain you're working with a healthy cat.

Q: We lost our cockatiel, Pansy, a year or so after her 12th birthday. We weren't sure we wanted another bird. But we finally decided that we did, and now we have a peach-faced lovebird. We read in your book that birds don't need grit, but we always gave it to Pansy. And it's still being sold (and recommended) at the pet store where we got our new bird. What's the story? -- T.E., via e-mail

A: In the last decade or so, our knowledge of what it takes to keep pet birds healthy has changed dramatically, and some sources haven't kept up with the latest information. Grit (which is finely ground rock) was thought to help birds grind their food, but it's no longer recommended for most birds by avian experts such as my "Birds for Dummies" co-author, Dr. Brian L. Speer, a board-certified avian specialist and past president of the Association of Avian Veterinarians (AAV).

Indeed, grit is now thought to have a negative impact on bird health, removing vitamins A, B and K from the digestive system. And grit occasionally leads to a potentially life-threatening problem, when the amount of the stuff in the bird blocks the digestive system.

Still, some birds can make use of a small amount of grit. Canaries and other finches should be allowed a couple of grains every couple of months. Other birds, from budgies, cockatiels and lovebirds on up, don't need grit at all and shouldn't be offered it.

I find that misinformation is more commonplace for birds than for any other pet. And it's everywhere -- from bird clubs to pet shops to the Internet and even some general-practice veterinarians. The best advice I have for anyone who wants the latest and best bird-care information is: Find a veterinarian who's a board-certified avian specialist, or find one who takes the extra time to stay current on avian care. You can find such a veterinarian through the AAV either online at www.aav.org, or by calling (561) 393-8901.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600