A sick bird too often means a dead bird. Not because birds are fragile -- on the contrary, most bird species are quite hardy -- but because by the time their illness is noticed, birds are usually very ill indeed and sometimes too far gone to be helped.

In the wild, a bird's best chance to survive is to hide illness. If you look sick in the wild, you'll attract the attention of a predator and will soon be someone's lunch. Even without the threat of predation, pet birds can't help but behave as wild birds do and hide all signs of illness until they're too sick to manage it. That's why some birds who seem fine one day are found dead the next. They were likely ill for a long time, but they managed to hide the symptoms.

The best way to catch an illness before your bird gets too sick to be helped is to have your pet see a veterinarian regularly. Your bird will be better off with a board-certified avian specialist, if there's one available in your area, or with a veterinarian who is comfortable treating birds and who keeps up with the latest available health information on these pets.

An avian veterinarian will go over your bird carefully, and will ask you questions meant to reveal any problems in your bird's health or behavior and in how you care for your pet. The veterinarian may suggest a couple of basic diagnostic tests. The idea is to correct any current problems and change anything that could become a risk in the long term, such as an improper diet.

If you suspect your bird is sick, call your veterinarian. Remember that a bird who appears ill may be in mortal danger, even if he seemed fine just the day before. Never try to treat your bird yourself. You may be misreading the symptoms and making matters worse.

It's sometimes difficult to judge what needs immediate attention and what can wait until tomorrow. Here are some guidelines in determining how best to respond to your bird's illness:

-- Life-threatening emergencies. These need to be dealt with immediately by a veterinarian. They include bites or deep cuts, bleeding that can't be stopped, burns, poisoning, difficulty breathing, collapse, blood in droppings, or straining to defecate or pass an egg. In these situations, you can't get help fast enough. If it's after hours and your regular avian veterinarian cannot be reached, you'll need to visit an emergency clinic. Not all of these treat birds, so take time now to explore your options so you'll know where to go in an emergency.

-- Urgent situations. Problems that should be seen by a veterinarian within a few hours of your noticing them include an eye injury, or a lack of interest in eating, especially if your bird also seems "puffed up." Sudden swellings also demand relatively fast care, as do broken bones and diarrhea. Direct contact with dog or cat saliva, regardless of whether or not the skin was broken, is also an urgent matter -- your bird will likely need to be started on antibiotics right away.

Everything else falls into the category of not-so-urgent, but even then, don't get complacent. If there's a problem, your pet should see your veterinarian the next day. And if any of the more urgent symptoms pop up, get help sooner.

No matter what, bear in mind that a "wait and see" attitude is not appropriate for a sick bird. When in doubt, you should at the very least call your veterinarian. Your bird's life may well depend on your prompt attention.

PETS ON THE WEB

Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue is arguably the finest group of its kind, an organization that helps to coordinate the efforts of dozens of volunteers who find new homes for unwanted purebred dogs. The nonprofit group's Web site (www.spdrdogs.org) mirrors the work of the organization itself, with information on what rescue is, what dogs are available, how to bring one home, and why you should. A nifty feature is the link to a breed-selection calculator that allows you to click off what you like and don't like in a pet and then recommends a list of suitable breeds.

THE SCOOP

Never hit your cat. If you need to correct your pet's behavior, try instead to startle him with noise or some other unpleasant, nonharmful sensation. If your cat is on the counter, for example, a blast from a squirt bottle will help to persuade him to keep his paws on the floor. Noisemakers that prove effective with cats include pennies in an empty soda can, a squeaky dog toy or an air horn. Counter-hoppers may also be trained through the use of a product called a Scat Mat. The plastic mat, which can be placed on a counter, is wired to give off a slight shock (like a carpet shock) when a pet touches it.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: If you are going to write about so-called "unprovoked biting," you should also talk about the serious consequences of approaching unknown dogs and their owners, especially on a bike or skateboard.

I currently drive 50 miles a week to take my three dogs out to play ball in secluded places, only to have adults or children go out of their way to watch, participate or bring a dog. They are surprised when there are problems! I go to closed industrial complexes, and this is for a reason -- we want to be left alone.

Wake up, America! Virtually all dog-biting incidents are the fault of the intruder, not the dog. Will you please mention something about approaching unknown dogs? We will all be safer and happier. -- C.V., via e-mail

Q: Will you set the record straight on aggressive dogs? I have two of them, and I love them that way. I don't want just anyone to walk into my yard, and my dogs should use every measure to keep trespassers out. Aggressive dogs should be obedient to their owners, but otherwise there is nothing wrong with an aggressive dog. -- M.R., via e-mail

A. Your letters are typical of those I received after writing about my zero-tolerance view on canine aggression. I'm sorry, but I can't agree with either of you.

If you know you have an aggressive dog, you should never let the animal off leash in public, no matter how isolated the area you choose. Yes, it's true that people are better off avoiding dogs they do not know, but that does not relieve you of your responsibilities where your pets are concerned.

What if, out in that isolated area, your unleashed, aggressive dogs take off after and attack a jogger, skateboarder or bicyclist? Without a leash, are your dogs controllable? A friend of mine was walking her small dog -- on leash -- down a rural lane near her home when two off-leash dogs who were playing fetch with their owner in a nearby schoolyard ran over and killed the little dog right at her feet. The owner of the animals was screaming at them to come back when they ran for the little dog, but they ignored him completely.

If your dog is aggressive, you must keep him secured with a leash or behind a fence. I do know people who have dogs who like to get into fights at the dog park, and they bring their pets in muzzled. It's a good compromise: The dog gets the exercise he needs, but he isn't a threat to anyone.

As for keeping aggressive dogs for protection, I can't tell you how many times that plan has resulted in a serious or deadly attack on an innocent person. Are there children in your family? Do grandchildren come to visit? Has a neighborhood child or a delivery person ever walked into your yard? What would happen if an emergency medical team had to get to you? Have your dogs ever broken out, or has the gate ever been left open? Each of these scenarios has ended up in newspapers as part of stories on horrific dog attacks.

No one needs an aggressive dog as a pet, and those who end up with such animals unintentionally need to take responsibility to ensure the safety of others. Make sure the animal is secured at all times, and seek the advice of a trainer or behaviorist to help turn around your pet's anti-social behavior.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Out of all the animals that we have taken into human society and have changed over generations to better suit our own ends, why is the cat the one we have accepted largely on his own terms?

We have meddled endlessly with other domesticated animals, the dog most notably so, bred in all shapes and sizes and turned into a herder, a hunter, a puller of carts and sleds, or even a tiny ornamental companion. The many breeds of sheep, horses and cows also show our urge over the generations to change animals to better suit our own needs and fashions.

One could argue that the cat was already a useful and attractive animal when his kind chose to associate with ours, and as such, we saw no need to change him. The cat didn't need our meddling to keep our homes and farms free of vermin -- his own interests just happened to dovetail perfectly with our own. And surely the fact that the cat was not only useful but also graceful, beautiful and affectionate made it easy for our kind to welcome him into our lives and homes for the sake of companionship alone.

Of all the attributes that led our kind to take so strongly to their kind, perhaps there's one that touched our hearts the most.

I think we fell in love with the cat's ability to purr.

After thousands of years of sharing our lives with cats, isn't it amazing that we are still not sure exactly how they purr? A vibration, sure. But where? The rattling of skin folds, say some, while others argue that the sound is the movement of air through swollen blood vessels. And why is our cat the only one of his family to manage this lovely sound? Tigers, for example, can rumble and roar, but only the domestic cat can keep the motor running on both inhale and exhale.

I'd be happier if the mysteries were never solved, for they add to the purr's uniqueness and its appeal.

When I think of purring, though, I don't think of history or science. Instead, I remember a day when a little cat saved his own life with the power of his purr.

A friend and I had gone to the shelter to search for an elderly neighbor's lost calico and found ourselves sadly pondering a cage bank full of homeless cats. Few, we knew, would be alive in a couple of days' time. We tried to push the thought out of our heads as we looked in each cage for the missing cat.

And then we heard the purr. It came from a leggy young tabby with a battered look about him. He had snuggled onto the floor of his steel cage as if on a satin pillow, his front legs folded beneath him, his eyes half-lidded with contentment. His purr was as rough and raspy as the low gear on an untuned Harley.

He opened his eyes and revved up his motor as we approached, and in seconds we were both smitten with the half-grown kitten. Once out of the cage, he was as charming as his purr suggested, bumping my friend's chin with his head and settling into her arms as if he belonged there. Just that quickly, the purring tabby earned himself a new home.

The neighbor's missing calico wandered home the next day, thinner than when she left but otherwise unharmed. And the ratty little tabby with the big purr grew into a handsome and loving companion, which he likely would never have had the chance to become were it not for his purr.

The purr is the essence of all that is wonderful about cats. And although I am no scientist, I have my own theory of where such a beautiful sound originates. I have no doubt that it comes straight from the heart.

PETS ON THE WEB

Crufts, the mother of all dog shows, is the latest of England's animal-related sporting events to fall victim to that country's foot-and-mouth livestock epidemic, with officials postponing the historic four-day show for an unspecified time.

Crufts is held each March in Birmingham, England, and a trip there is the dream of anyone who'd like to wear out the soles of a pair of walking shoes while happily gazing upon hundreds of different breeds of dogs, an amazing array of merchants, and at both canine athletes and beauty queens doing what they do best.

The show's Web site (www.crufts.org.uk) promises to provide updates on the rescheduling of the event, but that's not the only reason to click on it. The site also offers plenty in the way of show lore, past winners, merchandise, and general information regarding dogs and this legendary event.

THE SCOOP

Altitude has a lot to do with attitude, at least when it comes to parrots. In the wild, dominant members of the flock choose the highest branches on which to rest, with the lower-ranking birds settling on perches below. Pet parrots who see themselves as dominant to their owners can often be helped just by getting their own height issues readjusted.

The rule is known among behaviorists as "your head, my heart," and requires you to keep your bird's head no higher than your heart. That means canceling shoulder rides in favor of letting your bird perch on your waist-level arm or hand, and it also means removing cage-top play gyms and lowering the height of the cage itself by removing the stand on which most models rest.

When your bird is no longer looking down on you physically, he won't be as likely to look down on you socially. You'll then be in a better position to train him in the basics of well-mannered behavior.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our daughter has two cats from the same litter, brother and sister, both neutered and about 18 months old. Both were completely trained using the same litter box while living in New York City. Our daughter moved to a new city and new apartment in October.

Tiger uses the litter box (same litter, same box). But Lily goes around or near the box, but not in it. When they came here to our house (new to them as well) to visit, Lily used the same litter box as Tiger for three days. When they went back to their new home, she started right back to leaving a present outside of the box nearly every day.

At first we thought it was her new surroundings. But after four months, she shows no sign of improving. Our daughter has bought spray, has cleaned the area daily, has moved the box and has changed litter. She's now at her wit's end. -- E.V., via e-mail

A: She needs to add at least one more box, probably in a different part of the apartment.

It sounds to me as if Lily is trying her best, by going near the communal litter box. But some cats don't like to share, and others aren't allowed to share. The dominant cat won't tolerate it. And sometimes a cat won't use a box unless it's perfectly clean and fresh, no clumps at all.

Your daughter can cover all contingencies by adding one or more additional litter boxes. That way, Lily can be assured of a space she needn't share with her brother. Additional boxes also increase the likelihood that the cats will always find a clean one, assuming your daughter is diligent about scooping.

Q: Will you please add to your suggestions on keeping dogs out of litter boxes? The ideas previously submitted sounded great, but they work only if the dog is bigger than the cat. If you have a 4-pound dog and a 12-pound cat, as I do, then making the opening to the litter-box area cat-sized just won't do it. The only thing I've found so far that works is to put the litter box in the bathtub in the spare bathroom. The cat is big enough to get over the edge, but the dog isn't. -- B.G., via e-mail

A: I've had readers confirm over the years that keeping the box in the bathtub will usually keep cat-sized dogs out. So, too, will putting a baby gate across the door to the area where the litter box is. The cat can jump it easily, but the dog can't.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Ladies and gentlemen, cast off your tired old prejudices! It's time to quit picking on poodles.

Long maligned as an effeminate dandy, the poodle has been the butt of jokes for generations, probably ever since the first person put a fancy haircut on what had been a hardworking hunting dog. But the soul of the poodle is still there, under everything that's ever been done to that hair.

Oh, and there has been a lot done! The curly coat of the poodle has been cut in every imaginable way, dyed in every possible color, and (less commonly) even been left alone to work its way into floor-length cords that make the dog look like a French Rastafarian. And as if all that humiliation weren't enough, those who keep poodles seem to share a higher-than-average desire to dress up their pups in all kinds of getups, from faux leopard-skin jackets and pearl collars to leather biker jackets with leashes to match.

But looks alone shouldn't define a dog, and that's surely true with the poodle. I got a letter recently from someone who wanted me to recommend a breed for her family. She wanted something relatively clean and low-shedding, smart, playful and easy to train. And then she wrote this: "My husband will go with anything except a poodle."

I ask you, how fair is that? And how sensible, when a poodle fits that family's requirements perfectly? Instead of crossing the poodle off the list, I suggested the reader consider what a poodle is really like. Anyone who'd do so will find a lot to appreciate.

The poodle is a smart dog, one of the smartest by any measure you care to use. Poodles learn quickly and love to show off what they know. They make novice trainers look expert and expert trainers look brilliant. And they make fools out of the poor owners who don't realize just how smart a dog they have.

The poodle is a friendly dog. Poodles have an innate sense of cheerful superiority and a firm belief that everyone should be entitled to the pleasure of their company. They are the consummate companion.

The poodle is a hardworking dog. Some poodle fanciers are trying to restore the breed to its working heritage. Poodles excel in all manner of canine competitions (obedience and agility, naturally), but a few are even showing up in hunting circles. Poodles as sled dogs? That, too, has happened. They love to have a job to do.

But most of all, the poodle is a dog with a great sense of humor, which is important to a breed that has been through all this one has. Poodles will laugh at you, but they are really happier to laugh with you, genial souls that they are. And they even seem able to laugh at themselves.

A few years back, I was at the Westminster Kennel Club dog show, standing next to a big poodle who was waiting to go into the ring for Best in Show competition. The poor fellow's fanny had been shaved in a way that no living thing should have to endure, and I'm sure his sperm count fell with every draft. And yet as the dog and I briefly made eye contact, he cracked his mouth in a happy smile, shook his well-coiffed head and winked.

As I stood there in gape-mouthed shock (wondering, did I really see that?), the dog turned and went into the ring with his handler, poodle pride in every high step.

How could you not love a dog like that?

PETS ON THE WEB

Want to learn about poodles who can do more than look pretty? Check out the Versatility in Poodle Web site (www.vipoodle.org). VIP is dedicated to putting the work element back into what had traditionally been a working breed, and the group's members train their dogs to prove that poodles still have what it takes. Be sure to check out the "working poodles" section to see pictures of dogs acting in ways many people think are reserved for Labrador retrievers. For a more general overview of the breed, visit the Poodle Club of America's Web site (www.swdg.com/pca), which offers help finding a reputable breeder or rescue contact.

THE SCOOP

Litter boxes don't have to come out of a pet-supply store. Depending on your cat or kitten, you might be better off looking in the housewares section of a store like Target or Wal-Mart, or even in the cupboards of your own kitchen.

Tiny kittens sometimes have difficulty scaling the sides of a litter box made for cats. For these babies, try using a sheet-cake pan that you're ready to retire permanently from baking. The low sides make it easy for kittens to use.

For cats who throw litter while vigorously covering their mess or urinate over the sides of a traditional cat box, look in the housewares section for square plastic storage bins (such as for sweaters) with high sides. You may have to cut down one side to make an entry, if your cat seems to believe the leap into the box is more than he wants to manage.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We are moving to the other side of the country. I will drive our car, which will be pulling a trailer, and my wife will fly with our two children. Would our cat be better off traveling with me in the car, or with my wife and kids on the plane? -- E.R., via e-mail

A: In general, I'd choose the plane, assuming the airline you've decided on is one that accepts small, crated animals as carry-on baggage. (Some airlines won't take animals at all, not even in the cargo holds.)

Airlines require that the pet carrier you choose fit under the seat, which means the largest cats and all but the smallest dogs are going to be too large to be allowed in the passenger compartment. Soft-sided carriers such as the Sherpa are designed to provide comfort for your pet and flexibility for you. Unlike hard plastic, Sherpa carriers have a little give when it comes to tucking in that spare inch or two around your pet.

Check with the airline for details and to reserve your pet's space. The company may limit the number of animals in the passenger compartment on any given flight.

Depending on the age of your children, your wife may have her hands too full to be worrying about your cat as well. In that case, you'll have to take your pet with you in the car. I'd still recommend a carrier. But for a long car trip, your pet will probably be more comfortable in a hard-sided variety, in the next size above those labeled for cats. When you're buying the carrier, pick up some disposable litter boxes, too. These small, plastic-coated containers are easy to use on the road, and can be popped -- soiled contents and all -- into a plastic bag for easy disposal.

Whichever means of transporting your cat you choose, be sure the animal has a collar and ID tag, and a nonslip harness and leash. A scared cat can seem liquid in her ability to escape. A harness and leash will keep your pet from going far, and an ID tag will help you recover your cat back if she slips away.

Thank you for taking your cat with you. I have never understood why anyone would choose to leave a pet behind, but a great many do. In fact, "moving" is one of the top reasons why pets end up in shelters.

Q: We bought our daughter a rabbit for her 10th birthday, and she's being very good about taking good care of Sunny. She had read conflicting information on whether her pet needs hay, or if a diet of pellets will be fine. Which is it? -- S.H., via e-mail

A: The rough fiber found in hay is essential to keeping the digestive system of rabbits working properly. Fresh, clean hay (such as timothy or oat) should always be kept available for your daughter's new pet.

Pellets, hay and water should form the base of the diet, but offering the animal a variety on top of the basics is important as well. Fresh, leafy green vegetables and an occasional piece of fruit would also be appreciated. Mustard, kale or turnip greens are especially good, as are carrot tops and the leaves that surround broccoli or cauliflower heads.

Your daughter would learn from and enjoy a membership in the nonprofit House Rabbit Society, which offers an excellent quarterly newsletter to its members. For more information, visit the group's Web site at www.rabbit.org, or send information about your daughter, along with a check for $18 ($25 Canadian or international), to: House Rabbit Society, 148 Broadway, Richmond, CA 94804.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600