Ladies and gentlemen, cast off your tired old prejudices! It's time to quit picking on poodles.

Long maligned as an effeminate dandy, the poodle has been the butt of jokes for generations, probably ever since the first person put a fancy haircut on what had been a hardworking hunting dog. But the soul of the poodle is still there, under everything that's ever been done to that hair.

Oh, and there has been a lot done! The curly coat of the poodle has been cut in every imaginable way, dyed in every possible color, and (less commonly) even been left alone to work its way into floor-length cords that make the dog look like a French Rastafarian. And as if all that humiliation weren't enough, those who keep poodles seem to share a higher-than-average desire to dress up their pups in all kinds of getups, from faux leopard-skin jackets and pearl collars to leather biker jackets with leashes to match.

But looks alone shouldn't define a dog, and that's surely true with the poodle. I got a letter recently from someone who wanted me to recommend a breed for her family. She wanted something relatively clean and low-shedding, smart, playful and easy to train. And then she wrote this: "My husband will go with anything except a poodle."

I ask you, how fair is that? And how sensible, when a poodle fits that family's requirements perfectly? Instead of crossing the poodle off the list, I suggested the reader consider what a poodle is really like. Anyone who'd do so will find a lot to appreciate.

The poodle is a smart dog, one of the smartest by any measure you care to use. Poodles learn quickly and love to show off what they know. They make novice trainers look expert and expert trainers look brilliant. And they make fools out of the poor owners who don't realize just how smart a dog they have.

The poodle is a friendly dog. Poodles have an innate sense of cheerful superiority and a firm belief that everyone should be entitled to the pleasure of their company. They are the consummate companion.

The poodle is a hardworking dog. Some poodle fanciers are trying to restore the breed to its working heritage. Poodles excel in all manner of canine competitions (obedience and agility, naturally), but a few are even showing up in hunting circles. Poodles as sled dogs? That, too, has happened. They love to have a job to do.

But most of all, the poodle is a dog with a great sense of humor, which is important to a breed that has been through all this one has. Poodles will laugh at you, but they are really happier to laugh with you, genial souls that they are. And they even seem able to laugh at themselves.

A few years back, I was at the Westminster Kennel Club dog show, standing next to a big poodle who was waiting to go into the ring for Best in Show competition. The poor fellow's fanny had been shaved in a way that no living thing should have to endure, and I'm sure his sperm count fell with every draft. And yet as the dog and I briefly made eye contact, he cracked his mouth in a happy smile, shook his well-coiffed head and winked.

As I stood there in gape-mouthed shock (wondering, did I really see that?), the dog turned and went into the ring with his handler, poodle pride in every high step.

How could you not love a dog like that?

PETS ON THE WEB

Want to learn about poodles who can do more than look pretty? Check out the Versatility in Poodle Web site (www.vipoodle.org). VIP is dedicated to putting the work element back into what had traditionally been a working breed, and the group's members train their dogs to prove that poodles still have what it takes. Be sure to check out the "working poodles" section to see pictures of dogs acting in ways many people think are reserved for Labrador retrievers. For a more general overview of the breed, visit the Poodle Club of America's Web site (www.swdg.com/pca), which offers help finding a reputable breeder or rescue contact.

THE SCOOP

Litter boxes don't have to come out of a pet-supply store. Depending on your cat or kitten, you might be better off looking in the housewares section of a store like Target or Wal-Mart, or even in the cupboards of your own kitchen.

Tiny kittens sometimes have difficulty scaling the sides of a litter box made for cats. For these babies, try using a sheet-cake pan that you're ready to retire permanently from baking. The low sides make it easy for kittens to use.

For cats who throw litter while vigorously covering their mess or urinate over the sides of a traditional cat box, look in the housewares section for square plastic storage bins (such as for sweaters) with high sides. You may have to cut down one side to make an entry, if your cat seems to believe the leap into the box is more than he wants to manage.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We are moving to the other side of the country. I will drive our car, which will be pulling a trailer, and my wife will fly with our two children. Would our cat be better off traveling with me in the car, or with my wife and kids on the plane? -- E.R., via e-mail

A: In general, I'd choose the plane, assuming the airline you've decided on is one that accepts small, crated animals as carry-on baggage. (Some airlines won't take animals at all, not even in the cargo holds.)

Airlines require that the pet carrier you choose fit under the seat, which means the largest cats and all but the smallest dogs are going to be too large to be allowed in the passenger compartment. Soft-sided carriers such as the Sherpa are designed to provide comfort for your pet and flexibility for you. Unlike hard plastic, Sherpa carriers have a little give when it comes to tucking in that spare inch or two around your pet.

Check with the airline for details and to reserve your pet's space. The company may limit the number of animals in the passenger compartment on any given flight.

Depending on the age of your children, your wife may have her hands too full to be worrying about your cat as well. In that case, you'll have to take your pet with you in the car. I'd still recommend a carrier. But for a long car trip, your pet will probably be more comfortable in a hard-sided variety, in the next size above those labeled for cats. When you're buying the carrier, pick up some disposable litter boxes, too. These small, plastic-coated containers are easy to use on the road, and can be popped -- soiled contents and all -- into a plastic bag for easy disposal.

Whichever means of transporting your cat you choose, be sure the animal has a collar and ID tag, and a nonslip harness and leash. A scared cat can seem liquid in her ability to escape. A harness and leash will keep your pet from going far, and an ID tag will help you recover your cat back if she slips away.

Thank you for taking your cat with you. I have never understood why anyone would choose to leave a pet behind, but a great many do. In fact, "moving" is one of the top reasons why pets end up in shelters.

Q: We bought our daughter a rabbit for her 10th birthday, and she's being very good about taking good care of Sunny. She had read conflicting information on whether her pet needs hay, or if a diet of pellets will be fine. Which is it? -- S.H., via e-mail

A: The rough fiber found in hay is essential to keeping the digestive system of rabbits working properly. Fresh, clean hay (such as timothy or oat) should always be kept available for your daughter's new pet.

Pellets, hay and water should form the base of the diet, but offering the animal a variety on top of the basics is important as well. Fresh, leafy green vegetables and an occasional piece of fruit would also be appreciated. Mustard, kale or turnip greens are especially good, as are carrot tops and the leaves that surround broccoli or cauliflower heads.

Your daughter would learn from and enjoy a membership in the nonprofit House Rabbit Society, which offers an excellent quarterly newsletter to its members. For more information, visit the group's Web site at www.rabbit.org, or send information about your daughter, along with a check for $18 ($25 Canadian or international), to: House Rabbit Society, 148 Broadway, Richmond, CA 94804.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It's natural to be afraid when a dog you don't know runs toward you, especially if he's of a breed that makes the headlines for attacks like the one that killed a woman last month in San Francisco.

Chances are, though, that any one of us is much more likely to be bitten by a dog we know -- our own family pet, or an animal belonging to a friend or relative. Many of these attacks could have been prevented if someone had paid attention to the warning signs indicating that a dog is a threat to safety.

Is your dog potentially dangerous? Answer these questions and be brutally honest with yourself.

-- Has your dog ever "stared you down"? A friend of mine told me recently about a young dog who tried to bully a dog trainer off a couch with a hard, fixed stare. She recognized it for the threat it was, and so should you.

-- Does your dog adopt a dominant posture with people or other dogs? A dog who's trying to be boss will be up on his toes, with his legs stiff, ears forward and hackles raised. His tail will be held up or out, and may even be wagging a little. Don't confuse the latter for friendliness. There's big difference between the wide, relaxed wag of a friendly dog and the stiff, tight one of an aggressive animal.

-- Do you avoid doing certain things around your dog because they elicit growling or a show of teeth? I've known people who live their lives in fear of their dog, avoiding the animal when he's eating, sleeping, playing with a toy ... the list can be endless.

-- Do you consider your dog safe, except around a particular group of people, such as children? When he growls at the veterinarian, do you tell yourself the behavior is reasonable because the animal thinks the doctor is "mean"?

-- Has your dog ever bitten anyone? Whatever the reason, no matter the excuse, a dog who has bitten once is more likely to bite again than is a dog who has never bitten at all.

A "yes" to any of these questions means you do have a problem, and you need to find help. You can find information in books or on the Internet on how to address aggressive behavior, but some of what you'll find is flat-out too dangerous for the average pet lover to follow. If you attempt to so much as make eye contact with a dog who has been allowed to believe that he's the boss, you risk getting bitten.

Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist with experience in aggressive dogs, or contact the behaviorists at your closest school or college of veterinary medicine. You'll almost certainly be told to have your dog neutered if that hasn't been done already. Most dogs involved in attacks are young, unneutered males. It is important to follow this and any other expert advice if you're to have a chance at reforming your canine delinquent.

You may find, though, that even after you've tried your best, you'll still have a dog who still cannot be trusted. For an animal who is and will continue to be a danger to others, euthanasia is the only option.

Yes, it's a tough call. But if your dog is a biter, he'll probably end up euthanized eventually -- sometimes after going from home to home to home. The difference is that if you do not take responsibility yourself, someone will get hurt first. Going by statistics, the victim will likely be a child.

While there are those who revel in having vicious dogs, most of the people who end up with them are horrified at what their pets have become. If you are among these people, you must take responsibility and get the help you need before someone gets hurt.

PETS ON THE WEB

One of the great things about watching the Westminster Kennel Club dog show is that this event shows off breeds most of us don't see very often. That's because Westminster's prestige is such that the best of every breed, no matter how rare, shows up to compete for the best-in-show award. At this year's show, a big piece of the attention went to the winner of the sporting group, a flat-coated retriever by the name of Ch. Zeus The Major God JH. No other flat-coat has ever managed such a big win, and already breeders report increased interest in the dogs. (I've been interested in the breed for years and share my life with two flat-coats.)

As with any breed, it pays to do your homework before you decide a breed is right for you. Flat-coated retrievers are good-natured and bright but extremely energetic -- these dogs live for the opportunity to work, preferably as a hunting companion. They are a bad match for anyone who cannot give the dogs' minds and bodies the workouts they crave, preferably on a daily basis. Another downside: The breed is often short-lived and highly prone to cancer. You can find out almost everything you need to know on the Web site of the Flat-Coated Retriever Society of America (www.fcrsainc.org).

THE SCOOP

Peach-faced lovebirds are beautiful, active and playful. When hand-raised and socialized with humans, these little guys love to be handled, carried around in your shirt pocket or on your collar (under your hair). They're very affectionate, not overly loud and capable of picking up a few phrases.

Contrary to popular belief, you don't need to keep two lovebirds. In fact, a single lovebird will likely be a more affectionate pet than a pair of them, who'll primarily have eyes for each other.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a question about house-training a puppy using a crate. You said a 2-month-old can "hold it" for two hours. What about at night? I've never seen this addressed before. We are going to get a golden retriever puppy this year and plan to crate-train. Do we get up every so many hours during the night? -- L.Y., via e-mail

A: Puppies are like babies. Some sleep through the night pretty soon after they come home, while others are considerably more fidgety. The younger the puppy, the more likely it is that you'll have to get up at least once during the night to take your little darling outside. Your puppy's crate should be right next to your bed, helping with bonding and making it easier for you to hear your puppy rustling when he needs to go out.

Make sure you're helping your pup to make it through the night by conducting the nighttime ritual properly. Offer your pup his last water no later than an hour before bedtime, and take him out for one last squat just before you settle him into the crate for the night. If you're letting your pup tank up before bed, he won't make it until morning.

In the daytime, the rule of thumb I mentioned in an earlier column still holds true. Puppies can "hold it" in a crate for about as long as their age in months: two hours for 2-month-olds, three hours for 2-month-olds, and so on. About five or six hours is the most any dog should be crated, no matter the age.

Q: Why do cats chose one person in a household rather than another? -- B.H., via e-mail

A: Animals have their preferences, too, and whom they like best often has a lot to do with who feeds them.

Dogs have always seemed more mercenary to me. The person in a household who is most often responsible for filling up the dishes or snapping on the leash for the daily walk usually earns favorite human status in the eyes of the family dog.

In a more general sense, I've known dogs who show a decided preference for men or for women. My dog Heather is like this. She is drawn to men, especially those who are tall with deep voices. As an apparently terminally single woman, I rarely have tall men with deep voices in my home (more's the pity for both of us, I suppose).

Cats, on the other hand, seem to use selection criteria that are not so blatantly obvious and seemingly contrary to their best interest at times. One of the most common questions I get is why, in a room full of people, will a cat invariably make a beeline for the one person in the room who does not like or is allergic to cats?

There is an explanation, and it's not plain contrariness on the part of cats. One thing most cats don't like is eye contact from strangers -- they find it intimidating. When a friendly cat wanders into a room, he'll notice that all the people who like cats are looking at him. So he heads for the one who he thinks is being polite -- the person who isn't looking at him. The cat doesn't realize that the person isn't looking because he doesn't want the cat near him. It's just a little bit of cross-species miscommunication.

That's one theory, anyway. Or maybe putting cat fur on the slacks of a cat hater really is the ultimate in feline fun.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

After last month's fatal mauling of a San Francisco woman by a cross-bred dog that could only be described as a hound from hell, it was only a matter of time before the call to ban certain breeds started echoing across the land.

The Presa Canario, a tough-minded protection dog from the Canary Islands that made up half of the killer dog's makeup (the other half was a mastiff), would likely be at the top of any such list. Depending on your distaste for other large dogs, the rest of the list could be quite long, and it could include everything from pit-bull terriers and Rottweilers to breeds that look "sort of menacing" to some people, such as boxers, Rhodesian ridgebacks and even black Labradors (not to mention all the mixes of any breed that has ever curled a lip at anyone in the last 50 years).

Problem is, breed bans are not only unfair, but they also don't work. Fashions in dogs among those who fancy owning the most aggressive animal on the block change year to year. The Doberman was once everyone's urban nightmare, later to be reclaimed and redeemed as a reliable family dog by the concerted effort of responsible breeders. Once considered so stable a children's pet that one had a starring role on the old "Our Gang" serials, the pit-bull terrier has yet to recover from its turn as the nation's reigning terror. And reputable Rottweiler breeders are just starting to pick up the pieces from that noble old breed's turn at most-feared status.

The people who wish to exploit the physical potential for destruction inherent in any large, powerful dog will find a way to do so, no matter the law against owning such breeds. And both the breeds and responsible people who care about them will suffer as a result. That's why breed-specific legislation is about as fair as racial profiling, and about as effective when it comes to dealing with dangerous dogs.

Mind you, I have no tolerance for canine menaces and the people who seem to delight in owning them. Authorities were correct in euthanizing the dog involved in the San Francisco attack, although I'd rather that laws had been in place to allow it to be done when the animal's aggression became known to people in the neighborhood. As for the couple who kept the dog, I hope they are headed to prison.

The experts agree that although the physical capability and potentially aggressive tendencies in those dogs bred for protection make them more prone to destructive behavior than other breeds, improper training and socialization have a greater role in producing a dangerous dog. So, too, does the flat-out neglect and abuse that many of these dogs endure at the hands of those who are drawn to a "tough" breed.

Instead of targeting breeds, the law should reflect a zero-tolerance stand against individual dangerous dogs of any breeding. While certain bites are unintentional (like the bite someone might get trying to break up a dog fight) or provoked (like the bite someone might get when tormenting a pet), those dogs who are clearly menacing should be dealt with in no uncertain terms. The laws should demand nothing less than muzzles and secure confinement for aggressive dogs, and euthanasia should be a given for any animal involved in an unprovoked attack.

Laws or no laws, the chances of any person facing a dog like the one involved in the San Francisco attack are relatively slim. Statistics on dog bites reveal that we're considerably more likely to be bitten by our own pet than by a stranger's dog. In next week's column, I'll write about how to prevent aggression in your dog, and what to do if your pet ends up a danger to your family or to others.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Biting" is No. 7 on the list of reasons why dogs are given up, according to the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, a nonprofit organization of veterinary, humane and breeders' groups formed to get the real story on what causes pet overpopulation and how to deal with the problem.

On the council's well-organized Web site (www.petpopulation.org), you'll find information that challenges assumptions about why pets end up homeless. Behavior and housing problems are significant for both dogs and cats, which suggests that a lot more education is needed so that people won't get pets they can't keep and will know how to raise them to avoid the training issues that cost many pets their lives. Getting good information is the first part of the fight, and you'll find a lot of it on the council's site.

THE SCOOP

I'm sure I'm not alone among animal lovers in that I love to watch wild birds. Whether you're curious about who's showing up at your bird feeder or are involved in a more active form of bird-watching, "The Sibley Guide to Birds" (Alfred A. Knopf, $35), produced under the wing of the National Audubon Society, should be in your reference collection.

More than a decade in the making, David Allen Sibley's book is notable for his truly astonishing illustrations -- nearly 7,000 in all. For most species, in-flight illustrations are included, as well as the standing side view, making identification easier. The guide is also well-organized and easy to use. Every beautiful, informative page in this book is a delight, a masterly work by one of the nation's top painters of wild birds.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: You're way off base on your answer to the woman who wanted information on cockapoos. Maybe they're not "purebred," but they are definitely a breed. And no more of a loving and wonderful a breed can you find! -- D.F., via e-mail

A: I got a quite a bit of mail from cockapoo fans who accused me of snobbery (and worse) for my recent writing on these dogs. I meant no criticism of cocker-poodle mixes, nor was I suggesting they weren't wonderful pets. I've never believed purebred dogs were any better than mixes when it comes to companionship. Or vice versa, for that matter.

Yes, cocker-poodle mixes are indeed loving and bright companions, but these pets are not a breed. Here's the distinction: With a breed, when you mate two animals of the same breed, you get animals just like them. Breed a poodle to a poodle, and you get more poodles.

Cockapoos or any such cleverly named pets are the result of a mating of two different breeds. Mate a cocker to a poodle, you get a cockapoo. Breed a cockapoo to another cockapoo, and you get some pups that will grow up looking like their parents, and others that will like one of their grandparents -- either a cocker or a poodle. They don't breed true, because each cockapoo is the result of two different breed types.

Do I think people should be intentionally producing cockapoos or other mixes for the pet trade? No, I don't. But on the other hand, I also don't think the vast majority of people who are breeding purebreds should be doing so either. That's because they're not doing so responsibly or with the dedication to improving the breed and producing physically and emotionally sound puppies that is the hallmark of a reputable, knowledgeable breeder.

Q: After one of my two cats was killed by a car last year, I'd decided I wanted to keep the other one inside all of the time. But he drives me so crazy with his crying to be let out that I give in and open the door. Any tips? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: Cats are highly territorial, and the day you reduce your cat's territory by cutting him off from the outdoors is the day you're going to start hearing about it. Your cat is astonished at your stupidity at first: "Hey, you! I can't believe you're so dumb that you forgot how to open the door!" Later, he's positively astonished at your failure to respond: "The door! The door! Pay attention! I want something."

Stop giving in. If you allow the insistent meows and pointed stares to wear you down to the point of opening the door, you're reinforcing the lesson your cat has already figured out: "All I need to do is put up a bigger fuss, and I get what I want."

Be patient but firm, and keep him occupied with games and attention. If he likes catnip, get a fresh supply to rub on his toys and scratching post.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600