pets

Watch for These Signs of Aggressive Behavior in Your Dog

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | February 25th, 2001

It's natural to be afraid when a dog you don't know runs toward you, especially if he's of a breed that makes the headlines for attacks like the one that killed a woman last month in San Francisco.

Chances are, though, that any one of us is much more likely to be bitten by a dog we know -- our own family pet, or an animal belonging to a friend or relative. Many of these attacks could have been prevented if someone had paid attention to the warning signs indicating that a dog is a threat to safety.

Is your dog potentially dangerous? Answer these questions and be brutally honest with yourself.

-- Has your dog ever "stared you down"? A friend of mine told me recently about a young dog who tried to bully a dog trainer off a couch with a hard, fixed stare. She recognized it for the threat it was, and so should you.

-- Does your dog adopt a dominant posture with people or other dogs? A dog who's trying to be boss will be up on his toes, with his legs stiff, ears forward and hackles raised. His tail will be held up or out, and may even be wagging a little. Don't confuse the latter for friendliness. There's big difference between the wide, relaxed wag of a friendly dog and the stiff, tight one of an aggressive animal.

-- Do you avoid doing certain things around your dog because they elicit growling or a show of teeth? I've known people who live their lives in fear of their dog, avoiding the animal when he's eating, sleeping, playing with a toy ... the list can be endless.

-- Do you consider your dog safe, except around a particular group of people, such as children? When he growls at the veterinarian, do you tell yourself the behavior is reasonable because the animal thinks the doctor is "mean"?

-- Has your dog ever bitten anyone? Whatever the reason, no matter the excuse, a dog who has bitten once is more likely to bite again than is a dog who has never bitten at all.

A "yes" to any of these questions means you do have a problem, and you need to find help. You can find information in books or on the Internet on how to address aggressive behavior, but some of what you'll find is flat-out too dangerous for the average pet lover to follow. If you attempt to so much as make eye contact with a dog who has been allowed to believe that he's the boss, you risk getting bitten.

Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist with experience in aggressive dogs, or contact the behaviorists at your closest school or college of veterinary medicine. You'll almost certainly be told to have your dog neutered if that hasn't been done already. Most dogs involved in attacks are young, unneutered males. It is important to follow this and any other expert advice if you're to have a chance at reforming your canine delinquent.

You may find, though, that even after you've tried your best, you'll still have a dog who still cannot be trusted. For an animal who is and will continue to be a danger to others, euthanasia is the only option.

Yes, it's a tough call. But if your dog is a biter, he'll probably end up euthanized eventually -- sometimes after going from home to home to home. The difference is that if you do not take responsibility yourself, someone will get hurt first. Going by statistics, the victim will likely be a child.

While there are those who revel in having vicious dogs, most of the people who end up with them are horrified at what their pets have become. If you are among these people, you must take responsibility and get the help you need before someone gets hurt.

PETS ON THE WEB

One of the great things about watching the Westminster Kennel Club dog show is that this event shows off breeds most of us don't see very often. That's because Westminster's prestige is such that the best of every breed, no matter how rare, shows up to compete for the best-in-show award. At this year's show, a big piece of the attention went to the winner of the sporting group, a flat-coated retriever by the name of Ch. Zeus The Major God JH. No other flat-coat has ever managed such a big win, and already breeders report increased interest in the dogs. (I've been interested in the breed for years and share my life with two flat-coats.)

As with any breed, it pays to do your homework before you decide a breed is right for you. Flat-coated retrievers are good-natured and bright but extremely energetic -- these dogs live for the opportunity to work, preferably as a hunting companion. They are a bad match for anyone who cannot give the dogs' minds and bodies the workouts they crave, preferably on a daily basis. Another downside: The breed is often short-lived and highly prone to cancer. You can find out almost everything you need to know on the Web site of the Flat-Coated Retriever Society of America (www.fcrsainc.org).

THE SCOOP

Peach-faced lovebirds are beautiful, active and playful. When hand-raised and socialized with humans, these little guys love to be handled, carried around in your shirt pocket or on your collar (under your hair). They're very affectionate, not overly loud and capable of picking up a few phrases.

Contrary to popular belief, you don't need to keep two lovebirds. In fact, a single lovebird will likely be a more affectionate pet than a pair of them, who'll primarily have eyes for each other.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a question about house-training a puppy using a crate. You said a 2-month-old can "hold it" for two hours. What about at night? I've never seen this addressed before. We are going to get a golden retriever puppy this year and plan to crate-train. Do we get up every so many hours during the night? -- L.Y., via e-mail

A: Puppies are like babies. Some sleep through the night pretty soon after they come home, while others are considerably more fidgety. The younger the puppy, the more likely it is that you'll have to get up at least once during the night to take your little darling outside. Your puppy's crate should be right next to your bed, helping with bonding and making it easier for you to hear your puppy rustling when he needs to go out.

Make sure you're helping your pup to make it through the night by conducting the nighttime ritual properly. Offer your pup his last water no later than an hour before bedtime, and take him out for one last squat just before you settle him into the crate for the night. If you're letting your pup tank up before bed, he won't make it until morning.

In the daytime, the rule of thumb I mentioned in an earlier column still holds true. Puppies can "hold it" in a crate for about as long as their age in months: two hours for 2-month-olds, three hours for 2-month-olds, and so on. About five or six hours is the most any dog should be crated, no matter the age.

Q: Why do cats chose one person in a household rather than another? -- B.H., via e-mail

A: Animals have their preferences, too, and whom they like best often has a lot to do with who feeds them.

Dogs have always seemed more mercenary to me. The person in a household who is most often responsible for filling up the dishes or snapping on the leash for the daily walk usually earns favorite human status in the eyes of the family dog.

In a more general sense, I've known dogs who show a decided preference for men or for women. My dog Heather is like this. She is drawn to men, especially those who are tall with deep voices. As an apparently terminally single woman, I rarely have tall men with deep voices in my home (more's the pity for both of us, I suppose).

Cats, on the other hand, seem to use selection criteria that are not so blatantly obvious and seemingly contrary to their best interest at times. One of the most common questions I get is why, in a room full of people, will a cat invariably make a beeline for the one person in the room who does not like or is allergic to cats?

There is an explanation, and it's not plain contrariness on the part of cats. One thing most cats don't like is eye contact from strangers -- they find it intimidating. When a friendly cat wanders into a room, he'll notice that all the people who like cats are looking at him. So he heads for the one who he thinks is being polite -- the person who isn't looking at him. The cat doesn't realize that the person isn't looking because he doesn't want the cat near him. It's just a little bit of cross-species miscommunication.

That's one theory, anyway. Or maybe putting cat fur on the slacks of a cat hater really is the ultimate in feline fun.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Laws Should Punish Individual Dogs, Not Breeds

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | February 18th, 2001

After last month's fatal mauling of a San Francisco woman by a cross-bred dog that could only be described as a hound from hell, it was only a matter of time before the call to ban certain breeds started echoing across the land.

The Presa Canario, a tough-minded protection dog from the Canary Islands that made up half of the killer dog's makeup (the other half was a mastiff), would likely be at the top of any such list. Depending on your distaste for other large dogs, the rest of the list could be quite long, and it could include everything from pit-bull terriers and Rottweilers to breeds that look "sort of menacing" to some people, such as boxers, Rhodesian ridgebacks and even black Labradors (not to mention all the mixes of any breed that has ever curled a lip at anyone in the last 50 years).

Problem is, breed bans are not only unfair, but they also don't work. Fashions in dogs among those who fancy owning the most aggressive animal on the block change year to year. The Doberman was once everyone's urban nightmare, later to be reclaimed and redeemed as a reliable family dog by the concerted effort of responsible breeders. Once considered so stable a children's pet that one had a starring role on the old "Our Gang" serials, the pit-bull terrier has yet to recover from its turn as the nation's reigning terror. And reputable Rottweiler breeders are just starting to pick up the pieces from that noble old breed's turn at most-feared status.

The people who wish to exploit the physical potential for destruction inherent in any large, powerful dog will find a way to do so, no matter the law against owning such breeds. And both the breeds and responsible people who care about them will suffer as a result. That's why breed-specific legislation is about as fair as racial profiling, and about as effective when it comes to dealing with dangerous dogs.

Mind you, I have no tolerance for canine menaces and the people who seem to delight in owning them. Authorities were correct in euthanizing the dog involved in the San Francisco attack, although I'd rather that laws had been in place to allow it to be done when the animal's aggression became known to people in the neighborhood. As for the couple who kept the dog, I hope they are headed to prison.

The experts agree that although the physical capability and potentially aggressive tendencies in those dogs bred for protection make them more prone to destructive behavior than other breeds, improper training and socialization have a greater role in producing a dangerous dog. So, too, does the flat-out neglect and abuse that many of these dogs endure at the hands of those who are drawn to a "tough" breed.

Instead of targeting breeds, the law should reflect a zero-tolerance stand against individual dangerous dogs of any breeding. While certain bites are unintentional (like the bite someone might get trying to break up a dog fight) or provoked (like the bite someone might get when tormenting a pet), those dogs who are clearly menacing should be dealt with in no uncertain terms. The laws should demand nothing less than muzzles and secure confinement for aggressive dogs, and euthanasia should be a given for any animal involved in an unprovoked attack.

Laws or no laws, the chances of any person facing a dog like the one involved in the San Francisco attack are relatively slim. Statistics on dog bites reveal that we're considerably more likely to be bitten by our own pet than by a stranger's dog. In next week's column, I'll write about how to prevent aggression in your dog, and what to do if your pet ends up a danger to your family or to others.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Biting" is No. 7 on the list of reasons why dogs are given up, according to the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, a nonprofit organization of veterinary, humane and breeders' groups formed to get the real story on what causes pet overpopulation and how to deal with the problem.

On the council's well-organized Web site (www.petpopulation.org), you'll find information that challenges assumptions about why pets end up homeless. Behavior and housing problems are significant for both dogs and cats, which suggests that a lot more education is needed so that people won't get pets they can't keep and will know how to raise them to avoid the training issues that cost many pets their lives. Getting good information is the first part of the fight, and you'll find a lot of it on the council's site.

THE SCOOP

I'm sure I'm not alone among animal lovers in that I love to watch wild birds. Whether you're curious about who's showing up at your bird feeder or are involved in a more active form of bird-watching, "The Sibley Guide to Birds" (Alfred A. Knopf, $35), produced under the wing of the National Audubon Society, should be in your reference collection.

More than a decade in the making, David Allen Sibley's book is notable for his truly astonishing illustrations -- nearly 7,000 in all. For most species, in-flight illustrations are included, as well as the standing side view, making identification easier. The guide is also well-organized and easy to use. Every beautiful, informative page in this book is a delight, a masterly work by one of the nation's top painters of wild birds.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: You're way off base on your answer to the woman who wanted information on cockapoos. Maybe they're not "purebred," but they are definitely a breed. And no more of a loving and wonderful a breed can you find! -- D.F., via e-mail

A: I got a quite a bit of mail from cockapoo fans who accused me of snobbery (and worse) for my recent writing on these dogs. I meant no criticism of cocker-poodle mixes, nor was I suggesting they weren't wonderful pets. I've never believed purebred dogs were any better than mixes when it comes to companionship. Or vice versa, for that matter.

Yes, cocker-poodle mixes are indeed loving and bright companions, but these pets are not a breed. Here's the distinction: With a breed, when you mate two animals of the same breed, you get animals just like them. Breed a poodle to a poodle, and you get more poodles.

Cockapoos or any such cleverly named pets are the result of a mating of two different breeds. Mate a cocker to a poodle, you get a cockapoo. Breed a cockapoo to another cockapoo, and you get some pups that will grow up looking like their parents, and others that will like one of their grandparents -- either a cocker or a poodle. They don't breed true, because each cockapoo is the result of two different breed types.

Do I think people should be intentionally producing cockapoos or other mixes for the pet trade? No, I don't. But on the other hand, I also don't think the vast majority of people who are breeding purebreds should be doing so either. That's because they're not doing so responsibly or with the dedication to improving the breed and producing physically and emotionally sound puppies that is the hallmark of a reputable, knowledgeable breeder.

Q: After one of my two cats was killed by a car last year, I'd decided I wanted to keep the other one inside all of the time. But he drives me so crazy with his crying to be let out that I give in and open the door. Any tips? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: Cats are highly territorial, and the day you reduce your cat's territory by cutting him off from the outdoors is the day you're going to start hearing about it. Your cat is astonished at your stupidity at first: "Hey, you! I can't believe you're so dumb that you forgot how to open the door!" Later, he's positively astonished at your failure to respond: "The door! The door! Pay attention! I want something."

Stop giving in. If you allow the insistent meows and pointed stares to wear you down to the point of opening the door, you're reinforcing the lesson your cat has already figured out: "All I need to do is put up a bigger fuss, and I get what I want."

Be patient but firm, and keep him occupied with games and attention. If he likes catnip, get a fresh supply to rub on his toys and scratching post.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Fundamental Laws of Pets Defy Categorization

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | February 11th, 2001

When I was in high school, I signed up for physics and calculus. I knew that to become a veterinarian I would have to develop a far greater grasp of science and math than the one I seemed to have been born with.

My physics teacher gave me a "C" out of mercy. My calculus teacher wasn't nearly as generous, and I spent the rest of my academic career -- high school and college -- sticking as close as I could to the English department. I abandoned all hope of veterinary medicine and settled (more or less) happily into a career as a writer.

But that doesn't mean I'm incapable of making a brilliant scientific discovery.

Oh sure, maybe mine doesn't have anything to do with mass or energy. OK, so maybe the people who hand out the Nobel Prizes won't be calling. But that doesn't mean my discovery has no significance to the lives of millions of people. Consider this: How often do you recognize the importance of, say, Einstein's work in your daily life?

Everyone who has spent more than a month with a cat or dog has stepped squarely into my discovery. In fact, stepping in it is just the way I happened upon it.

Call it Gina's Law of the Well-Placed Pet Mess. No matter how large the floor, pet-related organic matter will always be placed where a human being is most likely to plant a bare foot. Poop, pee, barf or hairball -- it doesn't matter. If it lands on the floor, chances are you'll step in it.

Keep the cleaning supplies handy, and accept it as one of the absolute laws of nature. You have no other choice

Of course, one can't rest on one's laurels. I'd been working until recently on proving my theory that the affection level of pets is directly related to the level of contrast between the color of their fur and that of the shirt you're wearing. I thought I had it nailed when I discovered that my black sweater was irresistible to white cats. But then I noticed that my friend's golden retriever was just as eager to snuggle no matter what I was wearing, shedding her long, silky fur without regard to my reputation as a scientist.

I've now shelved the Gina's Law of Shedding in favor of a field of study that shows more promise: the apparent ability of pets to do whatever is most embarrassing to you in front of the person you'd be most mortified to have see it. Call it Gina's Law of That's Not My Pet: I Think He Belongs to the Neighbors.

When one of my dogs brought my dirty underwear out to meet a person I'd just starting seeing (in what I hoped would become a romantic way), I knew I was on to something. And then a friend called with the exciting news that her dog had managed on a recent occasion to upchuck what was clearly a feminine hygiene product in front of a visiting minister.

With news like that, can you fault me for believing that my best scientific discoveries are still in front of me? All that's left is to name the phenomenon and wait for the media to call.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Presidential Pet Museum's Web site (www.presidentialpetmuseum.com) is the place to go for a fairly comprehensive list of all presidential animals, from the hounds and horses of George Washington to the dog and cats of George W. Bush. The animals kept by presidential families started out being more purposeful than companionable, with horses and milk cows commonplace.

By the turn of the last century, though, animals were welcomed just for keeping the president and his family company. Theodore Roosevelt brought in the new era with eight dogs and cats and a pack of presidential guinea pigs. But it fell to another Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, to bring the presidential pet into the political spotlight. His dog, Fala, is still arguably the best-known and most-loved White House pet in history. You'll find Fala's picture and much more on the Presidential Pet Museum's site, which is both attractive and easy to navigate.

THE SCOOP

In cats, obstipation is described as the inability to defecate, a very painful and serious condition that demands prompt veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well understood, but they result in intestines that become dilated and unable to push stools out of the body normally.

If your cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate, or if you notice an absence of feces in the litter box, your pet has a potentially serious problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea, because your cat's body, so irritated by the retained feces, may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like "ordinary" loose stools when passed.

Any changes in your cat's litter-box habits need to be investigated by your veterinarian, the sooner the better, and obstipation is no exception.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Are you aware of any genetic problems with shelties that cause them to have excessive plaque buildup? If so, are there any remedies? My 3-year-old pooch has required two teeth cleanings so far. I am afraid of having my dog put under anesthesia, and I hate having to do it. Should I try cleaning her teeth myself with a dental pick? -- J.P., via e-mail

A: As a general rule, the smaller the dog, the faster the plaque buildup. For most dogs and cats, regular dental cleanings (as often as twice a year in some cases) are as important to pets' long-term health as they are to ours. Keeping teeth in good health prevents bad breath, preserves teeth into old age, and protects the pet's organs from the constant shower of bacteria caused by rotting teeth and gums. Over the course of a lifetime, good dental health will add significantly to your pet's quality of life and perhaps even extend his lifetime.

Many pet owners shy away from dental work for their pets for the very reason you do: They're worried about losing their companion to anesthesia. In recent years, however, the use of safer anesthetic agents has become nearly universal, making dental work advisable even for older dogs and cats. In short: The long-term risk of ignoring your pet's teeth is now greater than the short-term risk of anesthesia.

No, you should not attempt to clean your dog's teeth with a dental pick because you likely will cause more problems than you'll prevent -- damaging the surface of the tooth enamel and, in so doing, giving bacteria a nice little niche to call home.

Start your pet's dental health regimen with a trip to your veterinarian, who should check your pet's mouth, teeth and gums. Then he or she can make recommendations based on what is found. For many pets, that'll mean a complete dentistry under anesthesia, and possibly some periodontal work and even the removal of broken or rotting teeth.

After the problems are treated, at-home care can keep things in good shape. Here are the basics:

-- Brush or wipe the teeth regularly. Use a toothpaste designed for dogs and cats a couple of times a week at least, although daily is better.

A children's soft toothbrush works well, as does one made especially for pets. You can also use a brush that fits over your fingertip, or plain gauze wrapped around your finger. Some vets suggest that gauze may be more readily accepted by cats, especially if dipped in tuna or clam juice first.

-- Feed them dry food and offer teeth-cleaning toys. Yes, dry food helps (and prescription diets designed to scrape teeth may help even more), but it must be used in combination with regular brushing and with toys that help wipe the teeth. Soft chewies or a rope toy are best. Avoid chews that are rock-hard or are prone to breaking into sharp pieces, as these can break teeth or slice gums.

My sheltie Andy, who is closing in on 15, has all his teeth, no bad breath, and is exceptionally healthy and lively for his age. He has had dental cleanings on at least an annual basis his entire life, and he has outlived all his littermates by years. He has made me a believer in lifelong preventive dental care.

The Veterinary Information Network's Pet Care Forum has put together a thorough collection of articles on dental care for pets at www.vin.com/PetCare/Articles/Temp/DentalHealthMonth.htm. The site is well worth checking out.

Q: I have two beagles that stay outside when I'm not home. A neighbor of mine has called the police on me for their barking. I leave them out because they tear up my house when I'm gone. I'm investigating a no-bark collar for them and was wondering what your thoughts were, and if any brand is particularly better than others. -- A.P., via e-mail

A: I would instead recommend that you bring your dogs inside when you're gone, both to minimize barking triggers and to muffle the noise when they do fire up. Working with a behaviorist will help you get them beyond their separation anxiety; however, if you still don't feel comfortable leaving them in, set them up with cozy quarters in your garage or basement.

I don't recommend shock collars for bark control. Instead, I prefer the citronella collar, which reacts to a dog's bark with a puff of a harmless citrus smell that dogs hate. Marketed under the name of the ABS Anti-Barking System, the collar can be found in many pet-supply stores and catalogs, and on the Web (www.adogsbestfriend.com/abs.html is one such site). Even the citronella collar works best when monitored, though, so you're still better off providing your dogs with indoor digs while you're gone.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

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