After last month's fatal mauling of a San Francisco woman by a cross-bred dog that could only be described as a hound from hell, it was only a matter of time before the call to ban certain breeds started echoing across the land.

The Presa Canario, a tough-minded protection dog from the Canary Islands that made up half of the killer dog's makeup (the other half was a mastiff), would likely be at the top of any such list. Depending on your distaste for other large dogs, the rest of the list could be quite long, and it could include everything from pit-bull terriers and Rottweilers to breeds that look "sort of menacing" to some people, such as boxers, Rhodesian ridgebacks and even black Labradors (not to mention all the mixes of any breed that has ever curled a lip at anyone in the last 50 years).

Problem is, breed bans are not only unfair, but they also don't work. Fashions in dogs among those who fancy owning the most aggressive animal on the block change year to year. The Doberman was once everyone's urban nightmare, later to be reclaimed and redeemed as a reliable family dog by the concerted effort of responsible breeders. Once considered so stable a children's pet that one had a starring role on the old "Our Gang" serials, the pit-bull terrier has yet to recover from its turn as the nation's reigning terror. And reputable Rottweiler breeders are just starting to pick up the pieces from that noble old breed's turn at most-feared status.

The people who wish to exploit the physical potential for destruction inherent in any large, powerful dog will find a way to do so, no matter the law against owning such breeds. And both the breeds and responsible people who care about them will suffer as a result. That's why breed-specific legislation is about as fair as racial profiling, and about as effective when it comes to dealing with dangerous dogs.

Mind you, I have no tolerance for canine menaces and the people who seem to delight in owning them. Authorities were correct in euthanizing the dog involved in the San Francisco attack, although I'd rather that laws had been in place to allow it to be done when the animal's aggression became known to people in the neighborhood. As for the couple who kept the dog, I hope they are headed to prison.

The experts agree that although the physical capability and potentially aggressive tendencies in those dogs bred for protection make them more prone to destructive behavior than other breeds, improper training and socialization have a greater role in producing a dangerous dog. So, too, does the flat-out neglect and abuse that many of these dogs endure at the hands of those who are drawn to a "tough" breed.

Instead of targeting breeds, the law should reflect a zero-tolerance stand against individual dangerous dogs of any breeding. While certain bites are unintentional (like the bite someone might get trying to break up a dog fight) or provoked (like the bite someone might get when tormenting a pet), those dogs who are clearly menacing should be dealt with in no uncertain terms. The laws should demand nothing less than muzzles and secure confinement for aggressive dogs, and euthanasia should be a given for any animal involved in an unprovoked attack.

Laws or no laws, the chances of any person facing a dog like the one involved in the San Francisco attack are relatively slim. Statistics on dog bites reveal that we're considerably more likely to be bitten by our own pet than by a stranger's dog. In next week's column, I'll write about how to prevent aggression in your dog, and what to do if your pet ends up a danger to your family or to others.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Biting" is No. 7 on the list of reasons why dogs are given up, according to the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, a nonprofit organization of veterinary, humane and breeders' groups formed to get the real story on what causes pet overpopulation and how to deal with the problem.

On the council's well-organized Web site (www.petpopulation.org), you'll find information that challenges assumptions about why pets end up homeless. Behavior and housing problems are significant for both dogs and cats, which suggests that a lot more education is needed so that people won't get pets they can't keep and will know how to raise them to avoid the training issues that cost many pets their lives. Getting good information is the first part of the fight, and you'll find a lot of it on the council's site.

THE SCOOP

I'm sure I'm not alone among animal lovers in that I love to watch wild birds. Whether you're curious about who's showing up at your bird feeder or are involved in a more active form of bird-watching, "The Sibley Guide to Birds" (Alfred A. Knopf, $35), produced under the wing of the National Audubon Society, should be in your reference collection.

More than a decade in the making, David Allen Sibley's book is notable for his truly astonishing illustrations -- nearly 7,000 in all. For most species, in-flight illustrations are included, as well as the standing side view, making identification easier. The guide is also well-organized and easy to use. Every beautiful, informative page in this book is a delight, a masterly work by one of the nation's top painters of wild birds.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: You're way off base on your answer to the woman who wanted information on cockapoos. Maybe they're not "purebred," but they are definitely a breed. And no more of a loving and wonderful a breed can you find! -- D.F., via e-mail

A: I got a quite a bit of mail from cockapoo fans who accused me of snobbery (and worse) for my recent writing on these dogs. I meant no criticism of cocker-poodle mixes, nor was I suggesting they weren't wonderful pets. I've never believed purebred dogs were any better than mixes when it comes to companionship. Or vice versa, for that matter.

Yes, cocker-poodle mixes are indeed loving and bright companions, but these pets are not a breed. Here's the distinction: With a breed, when you mate two animals of the same breed, you get animals just like them. Breed a poodle to a poodle, and you get more poodles.

Cockapoos or any such cleverly named pets are the result of a mating of two different breeds. Mate a cocker to a poodle, you get a cockapoo. Breed a cockapoo to another cockapoo, and you get some pups that will grow up looking like their parents, and others that will like one of their grandparents -- either a cocker or a poodle. They don't breed true, because each cockapoo is the result of two different breed types.

Do I think people should be intentionally producing cockapoos or other mixes for the pet trade? No, I don't. But on the other hand, I also don't think the vast majority of people who are breeding purebreds should be doing so either. That's because they're not doing so responsibly or with the dedication to improving the breed and producing physically and emotionally sound puppies that is the hallmark of a reputable, knowledgeable breeder.

Q: After one of my two cats was killed by a car last year, I'd decided I wanted to keep the other one inside all of the time. But he drives me so crazy with his crying to be let out that I give in and open the door. Any tips? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: Cats are highly territorial, and the day you reduce your cat's territory by cutting him off from the outdoors is the day you're going to start hearing about it. Your cat is astonished at your stupidity at first: "Hey, you! I can't believe you're so dumb that you forgot how to open the door!" Later, he's positively astonished at your failure to respond: "The door! The door! Pay attention! I want something."

Stop giving in. If you allow the insistent meows and pointed stares to wear you down to the point of opening the door, you're reinforcing the lesson your cat has already figured out: "All I need to do is put up a bigger fuss, and I get what I want."

Be patient but firm, and keep him occupied with games and attention. If he likes catnip, get a fresh supply to rub on his toys and scratching post.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When I was in high school, I signed up for physics and calculus. I knew that to become a veterinarian I would have to develop a far greater grasp of science and math than the one I seemed to have been born with.

My physics teacher gave me a "C" out of mercy. My calculus teacher wasn't nearly as generous, and I spent the rest of my academic career -- high school and college -- sticking as close as I could to the English department. I abandoned all hope of veterinary medicine and settled (more or less) happily into a career as a writer.

But that doesn't mean I'm incapable of making a brilliant scientific discovery.

Oh sure, maybe mine doesn't have anything to do with mass or energy. OK, so maybe the people who hand out the Nobel Prizes won't be calling. But that doesn't mean my discovery has no significance to the lives of millions of people. Consider this: How often do you recognize the importance of, say, Einstein's work in your daily life?

Everyone who has spent more than a month with a cat or dog has stepped squarely into my discovery. In fact, stepping in it is just the way I happened upon it.

Call it Gina's Law of the Well-Placed Pet Mess. No matter how large the floor, pet-related organic matter will always be placed where a human being is most likely to plant a bare foot. Poop, pee, barf or hairball -- it doesn't matter. If it lands on the floor, chances are you'll step in it.

Keep the cleaning supplies handy, and accept it as one of the absolute laws of nature. You have no other choice

Of course, one can't rest on one's laurels. I'd been working until recently on proving my theory that the affection level of pets is directly related to the level of contrast between the color of their fur and that of the shirt you're wearing. I thought I had it nailed when I discovered that my black sweater was irresistible to white cats. But then I noticed that my friend's golden retriever was just as eager to snuggle no matter what I was wearing, shedding her long, silky fur without regard to my reputation as a scientist.

I've now shelved the Gina's Law of Shedding in favor of a field of study that shows more promise: the apparent ability of pets to do whatever is most embarrassing to you in front of the person you'd be most mortified to have see it. Call it Gina's Law of That's Not My Pet: I Think He Belongs to the Neighbors.

When one of my dogs brought my dirty underwear out to meet a person I'd just starting seeing (in what I hoped would become a romantic way), I knew I was on to something. And then a friend called with the exciting news that her dog had managed on a recent occasion to upchuck what was clearly a feminine hygiene product in front of a visiting minister.

With news like that, can you fault me for believing that my best scientific discoveries are still in front of me? All that's left is to name the phenomenon and wait for the media to call.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Presidential Pet Museum's Web site (www.presidentialpetmuseum.com) is the place to go for a fairly comprehensive list of all presidential animals, from the hounds and horses of George Washington to the dog and cats of George W. Bush. The animals kept by presidential families started out being more purposeful than companionable, with horses and milk cows commonplace.

By the turn of the last century, though, animals were welcomed just for keeping the president and his family company. Theodore Roosevelt brought in the new era with eight dogs and cats and a pack of presidential guinea pigs. But it fell to another Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, to bring the presidential pet into the political spotlight. His dog, Fala, is still arguably the best-known and most-loved White House pet in history. You'll find Fala's picture and much more on the Presidential Pet Museum's site, which is both attractive and easy to navigate.

THE SCOOP

In cats, obstipation is described as the inability to defecate, a very painful and serious condition that demands prompt veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well understood, but they result in intestines that become dilated and unable to push stools out of the body normally.

If your cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate, or if you notice an absence of feces in the litter box, your pet has a potentially serious problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea, because your cat's body, so irritated by the retained feces, may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like "ordinary" loose stools when passed.

Any changes in your cat's litter-box habits need to be investigated by your veterinarian, the sooner the better, and obstipation is no exception.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Are you aware of any genetic problems with shelties that cause them to have excessive plaque buildup? If so, are there any remedies? My 3-year-old pooch has required two teeth cleanings so far. I am afraid of having my dog put under anesthesia, and I hate having to do it. Should I try cleaning her teeth myself with a dental pick? -- J.P., via e-mail

A: As a general rule, the smaller the dog, the faster the plaque buildup. For most dogs and cats, regular dental cleanings (as often as twice a year in some cases) are as important to pets' long-term health as they are to ours. Keeping teeth in good health prevents bad breath, preserves teeth into old age, and protects the pet's organs from the constant shower of bacteria caused by rotting teeth and gums. Over the course of a lifetime, good dental health will add significantly to your pet's quality of life and perhaps even extend his lifetime.

Many pet owners shy away from dental work for their pets for the very reason you do: They're worried about losing their companion to anesthesia. In recent years, however, the use of safer anesthetic agents has become nearly universal, making dental work advisable even for older dogs and cats. In short: The long-term risk of ignoring your pet's teeth is now greater than the short-term risk of anesthesia.

No, you should not attempt to clean your dog's teeth with a dental pick because you likely will cause more problems than you'll prevent -- damaging the surface of the tooth enamel and, in so doing, giving bacteria a nice little niche to call home.

Start your pet's dental health regimen with a trip to your veterinarian, who should check your pet's mouth, teeth and gums. Then he or she can make recommendations based on what is found. For many pets, that'll mean a complete dentistry under anesthesia, and possibly some periodontal work and even the removal of broken or rotting teeth.

After the problems are treated, at-home care can keep things in good shape. Here are the basics:

-- Brush or wipe the teeth regularly. Use a toothpaste designed for dogs and cats a couple of times a week at least, although daily is better.

A children's soft toothbrush works well, as does one made especially for pets. You can also use a brush that fits over your fingertip, or plain gauze wrapped around your finger. Some vets suggest that gauze may be more readily accepted by cats, especially if dipped in tuna or clam juice first.

-- Feed them dry food and offer teeth-cleaning toys. Yes, dry food helps (and prescription diets designed to scrape teeth may help even more), but it must be used in combination with regular brushing and with toys that help wipe the teeth. Soft chewies or a rope toy are best. Avoid chews that are rock-hard or are prone to breaking into sharp pieces, as these can break teeth or slice gums.

My sheltie Andy, who is closing in on 15, has all his teeth, no bad breath, and is exceptionally healthy and lively for his age. He has had dental cleanings on at least an annual basis his entire life, and he has outlived all his littermates by years. He has made me a believer in lifelong preventive dental care.

The Veterinary Information Network's Pet Care Forum has put together a thorough collection of articles on dental care for pets at www.vin.com/PetCare/Articles/Temp/DentalHealthMonth.htm. The site is well worth checking out.

Q: I have two beagles that stay outside when I'm not home. A neighbor of mine has called the police on me for their barking. I leave them out because they tear up my house when I'm gone. I'm investigating a no-bark collar for them and was wondering what your thoughts were, and if any brand is particularly better than others. -- A.P., via e-mail

A: I would instead recommend that you bring your dogs inside when you're gone, both to minimize barking triggers and to muffle the noise when they do fire up. Working with a behaviorist will help you get them beyond their separation anxiety; however, if you still don't feel comfortable leaving them in, set them up with cozy quarters in your garage or basement.

I don't recommend shock collars for bark control. Instead, I prefer the citronella collar, which reacts to a dog's bark with a puff of a harmless citrus smell that dogs hate. Marketed under the name of the ABS Anti-Barking System, the collar can be found in many pet-supply stores and catalogs, and on the Web (www.adogsbestfriend.com/abs.html is one such site). Even the citronella collar works best when monitored, though, so you're still better off providing your dogs with indoor digs while you're gone.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When one of her cats steps into a litter box, Dusty Rainbolt picks up her notebook and goes to watch the show.

"It's true," she laughed. "My poor cats have no privacy."

Her interest is not limited to her cats' litter-box habits. She watches, too, to see which beds they sleep in, which toys they prefer, and even which cleaners do best on a carpet stained by the cat who perhaps is seeking a few precious moments beyond the gaze of a woman who is always paying very close attention.

She watches because she has to. Rainbolt, you see, makes her living paying attention to what her cats do and writing about her observations. The former newspaper reporter and current resident of a Dallas suburb has made a name for herself as a meticulous and fair reviewer of those products of interest to cats and the people who love them.

In this endeavor, she relies on the help of her cats: six permanent residents and a revolving roster of fosters. Her work appears in a variety of cat-oriented publications, including Cats magazine and the newsletters Catnip and the Whole Cat Journal.

"I've been doing this for 2 1/2 years," she said. "It started with an e-mail from a lady with Catnip. She had heard that I had a lot of cats and could do a product review in a fast amount of time."

She took on that job and hasn't stopped testing products since. "You have to keep copious records," she said. "You have to be exact. I usually talk to a couple of veterinarians and also to people in similar industries to the products I'm testing. And I talk to the manufacturers, of course. I really do make every effort to be completely objective. It's hard when I don't like a product or the cats don't. But you have to tell the truth."

Over the course of testing more than 30 products, she has learned she cannot predict with certainty how her cats will react. "I used to get products and think, 'They're never going to touch this.' And then they'd prove me wrong.

"Still, there are things that are pretty obvious," she continued. "When you have lemon-scented cat litter, you just wonder: 'What were they thinking?' I wonder how many cats have been put to sleep because they started going in the corner instead. It's a classic example of selling to the people instead of the animals. A cat's nose is a hundred times more sensitive than ours, and they don't like lemon!"

Some products, like the lemon-scented litter, get a unanimous paws-down from the test cats, while others have met with mixed reviews. And then there are the overwhelming favorites, of which Rainbolt lists three:

-- World's Best Cat Litter. "It's a crumbled, kernel-corn litter. Clumps hard, feels like dirt. Cats love it. I had a cat who was peeing on the stove, and this cured it." (It's available in some health-food stores, independent pet-supply stores, and directly from the manufacturer at 1-877-367-9225, or www.worldsbestcatlitter.com)

-- Sticky Paws. "These are double-sided strips that keep your cat from scratching. They don't like the sticky feeling, and the product does not damage your furniture. Sticky Paws literally saved my furniture. I had holes in my couch." (They're available at Petco and Petsmart, and in many pet-supply catalogs and Web sites.)

-- Affordable Cat Fences. "This is a fence that you put at the top of your fence, and it keeps your cats in your yard. I can let my cats in the yard now without worrying about them leaving or other cats getting in." (It's available from the manufacturer, 1-888-840-CATS.)

Rainbolt just finished a definitive wrap-up of her year-long litter project for an upcoming issue of Cats magazine, so perhaps her cats will now be able to relieve themselves in peace. Unless ... well, somebody has to test the litter boxes themselves, no?

"You have to give them credit," she said. "The Rainbolt test kitties do work very hard."

PETS ON THE WEB

On Harvard biologist Mike Schindlinger's "Amazon Parrots -- Life in the Wild" Web site (www.people.fas.harvard.edu/(tilde)schindli/index.html), he offers advice for anyone who's thinking about getting a pet parrot: Don't. Any commercialization of the creatures, he believes, further risks their status in the wild.

While his point of view isn't likely to sit well with those who keep parrots as pets or for breeding, it comes from the heart and from his experiences documenting the lives of wild parrots. With plenty of photos, video clips and audio files of wild Amazons, Schindlinger's site is an educational and entertaining must-see for any bird lover, no matter how you feel about the keeping of parrots as pets.

THE SCOOP

Occasionally another pet lover will forward to me a dire warning circulating on the Internet regarding the use of clumping litter. The missive will usually note the death of a kitten (or more rarely, an adult cat) who died after ingesting some litter, which then solidified in the intestine. Scary stuff, if it were true, but it's probably not.

Clumping litter has been around for years and has a fine safety record, not to mention a fair measure of popularity among both cats and their caretakers. Indeed, clumping litter should probably be credited with saving the lives of those cats who'd pass on the litter boxes offering other fillers -- and end up homeless after their owners tire of dealing with the mess.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I've been thinking about getting a dog. But I don't know how to be sure that the shelters in the area are good ones. We have both shelters that euthanize and those that are "no-kill."

How do I go about deciding on a shelter? And once I find a shelter, how do I go about finding the right dog for me without going on impulse alone? -- P.B., via e-mail

A: You'll find good shelters among both the traditional and "no-kill" variety, and less-than-ideal ones in both categories as well.

Some no-kill shelters get that way by refusing to accept animals that are not adoptable or by refusing all animals when they are full. The turn-aways often end up at another shelter, one whose staff often very much resents having to be the bad guy. As for traditional shelters, some seem to believe it's easier to euthanize surplus pets than to make much of an effort to see them adopted.

Fortunately, pioneering shelters in both categories have done a lot of work in recent years to raise the bar for the rest, and both the pets and those who adopt them have benefited greatly from the changes.

Good shelters of all philosophical persuasions have a few things in common. You should look for these traits when choosing a place to find a pet because it's good to support a progressive organization, and because it's in your best interest to do so.

First, a shelter should be clean. Because money is always tight, it's not uncommon for even a good shelter to look a little worn around the edges. Many would love to have new buildings, new cages, new runs and so on, but few can afford them. Still, clean should always be a priority. If a shelter can't manage the most basic cleaning regimen, you should wonder about what else it isn't doing right.

Another key sign: an upbeat professional staff and a supportive group of volunteers. Both are essential when it comes to offering healthy, well-socialized animals for adoption, as well as counseling to help you pick out the right pet from so many needing homes.

Make a list beforehand of the attributes you want -- such as coat length, size, activity level -- and stick to it. You won't be doing the "wrong" dog a favor if you let your heart rule the day, then decide at a later date that you made a poor match. Take your time, and take a friend who'll help you to suppress the impulse to take home the first sad face you see. And let the shelter help you. Those adoption counselors want to help you make a match for life.

Q: I have a question concerning my 10-year-old golden retriever mix, Clark. We rescued him from the shelter in April. He is a joy and is wonderfully behaved, except for one fault: He acts like a puppy and has an incredible amount of energy!

I would like to do "agility" with him for fun, not for competition, but to use up some of this endless energy. Is he too old to do it? -- S.B., via e-mail

A: I have never in my life considered "acting like a puppy" to be a fault in a 10-year-old dog! Count your blessings, will you?

I'd take a slightly cautious approach to agility work for Clark. Ask your veterinarian how he or she would assess the dog's fitness, and if you get the go-ahead, build up Clark's stamina and strength with long walks or free-form gallivanting at the nearest off-leash dog park.

When you start agility, don't push too hard -- pay close attention and stop when you see your dog tiring. You're right in your feeling that you're better off emphasizing "fun" over "competition." That's because in training sessions you can keep the jumps at levels lower than is required at trials, and spare the wear and tear on your oldster's joints.

The bottom line: Proceed with caution, but give it a chance. Agility work is a joy for both dogs and humans, and it will go a long way toward keeping you both feeling young.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600