It's a New Year's tradition around my home, one that has outlived a handful of pets, but it still works to ensure the safety of the animals who share their lives with me now.

Yes, dear readers, it's time for the annual New Year's neck check. I started pushing for this tradition a decade ago, and I still believe it's as important as ever. Like checking your smoke detector batteries twice a year when the time changes, checking your pet's collar and tags annually will ensure that an important safety measure is in place should you and your pet ever need it.

Why New Year's? Because it's easy to remember, and besides, what else are you going to do besides eat, drink and watch football? Start your neck check with a look at your pet's collar first. A properly fitted collar is important, but so too is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice, and the proper fit is comfortably close but not too snug. Make sure your dog's not wearing a "choke" collar. These are for training and walking only, and they pose a life-threatening hazard if left on an unsupervised dog.

Cats should be wearing a collar with an elastic section that will allow your pet to wriggle free if he gets caught on something. If you do have the right kind of collar on your pet, take a minute to look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain, you'll need to replace the collar soon.

If the collar passes muster, it's time to look at the tags. A license is great, but since many lost pets are picked up by people in the neighborhood, it's a good idea to supplement the license with an ID tag that has a couple of phone numbers -- yours and the number of a friend or relative. Check to make sure the information is current and legible, and if not, make a note to order a new tag right away. I never put the pet's name or my address on the tags. Instead, the tags say "REWARD!" with a collection of phone numbers. I want to get the point across that I want my pets back quickly.

My pets also carry tags from a company I really like, 1-800-HELP4PETS. The service is available 24 hours a day, and it can also authorize veterinary care if your lost pet is injured and you cannot be immediately located. The service is $40 for the first year and $25 per year after that. (More information is available by calling the 1-800 number, or by visiting www.help4pets.com on the Web.)

Don't delay in fixing any problems you find with your pet's neck check. Problems with collars and tags are easy to fix -- and collars and tags are the cheapest insurance you can buy against loss or accidents.

A final note: A microchip is another form of identification well worth considering. The tiny transponder, about the size of a grain of rice, is inserted by a veterinarian over the shoulder blades of dogs and cats, or in the breast of birds, and serves as a permanent identification that cannot be slipped off or removed.

If you have a microchip implanted in your pet, it's not possible to check for the chip as part of your New Year's neck check. But do make a mental note to ask your veterinarian to scan for it the next time your pet visits. Most veterinarians have hand-held devices that can detect the presence of a chip, and can determine if it has stayed put in a spot where it can be found by shelter workers, should your pet ever stray.

Remember, though, that a microchip doesn't take the place of ID tags. They complement each other, and even if your pet is chipped, he should still wear tags.

PETS ON THE WEB

Want to know more about the medication your veterinarian sends home for your pet? Then you'll want to bookmark the Pet Care Forum's medication database (www.vin.com/PetCare/Articles/VetHospital/M00762.htm). The Pet Care Forum is the Veterinary Information Network's effort to provide the general public with the expertise of top veterinarians and other animal experts. (VIN itself, with which I have been associated for years, is an online service for veterinarians.)

The online medications section is the work of Dr. Wendy Brooks, who provides the details on a few dozen drugs commonly used in veterinary practice, from over-the-counter products such as aspirin and Benadryl to such high-profile prescription offerings as the arthritis drug Rimadyl.

Incidentally, if you'd like to have an expanded reference in book form, order a copy of "The Pill Book Guide to Medication for Your Dog and Cat," by veterinarians Kate A.W. Roby and Lenny Southam (Bantam Books, $6.99). I can't recommend it enough.

THE SCOOP

The Wall Street Journal reports that with more and more hotels taking in pets, it's a natural progression for the travel industry to now be putting together pet-friendly vacations. Walking tours and winery visits are already being offered, as well as a packaged tour of the south of France.

The last destination is a natural: As much as we North Americans love our dogs, the French go one step further when it comes to embracing the dogs of others. Dogs are a common sight in restaurants and shops, places where those of us on this side of the Atlantic would never dream of being allowed with a dog in tow.

The Journal notes that for those looking for upscale travel with their dogs, the Petswelcome.com Web site is launching its own travel service this summer, and is planning to put together tours that include some very grand digs, indeed.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My niece has a small female dog she loves to death. Not only does she care for the dog, but she also clothes her. Recently she brought up the idea of piercing the ears of her dog. Is this cruel and unjust? -- J.M., via e-mail

A: You're putting me on, right? Really, I can't imagine it would be any more cruel, unjust or painful than the ear-piercing my cousin and I got at the mall when we were 12, but it's likely you'd have to add anesthesia to the mix to get a dog to sit still for it. That would up both the cost and the risk.

This is one genie that needs to be put back in the bottle and corked up but good. I'd hate to see something like this catch on. What a waste of money and a needless infliction of pain!

Tell your niece to make a donation to a pet shelter just for thinking up such nonsense and to put the idea out of her mind for good. Making the poor dog wear clothes every day is bad enough.

Q: I want to offer a tip to people with hard-of-hearing pets. I have a deaf cat, and my old Chihuahua is going deaf, too. I blow on those pets to wake them. I can start with a gentle puff, and if that isn't enough I can blow a bit harder. The effect is "adjustable" that way, unlike stamping on the floor. -- B.B., via e-mail

A: Just make sure you aren't too close to your pets' faces when you blow. One of the problems with deaf animals is that they can react with a snap if startled from a sound sleep. I don't want your face to be too close if that happens.

My friend Peggy takes care of my dog Andy when I'm out of town. The old boy's not completely deaf, but he sure doesn't hear what he used to. Peggy is retired from a career as a nurse, and over the years she discovered that older patients with hearing loss seemed to have an easier time hearing voices that were lower, more male than female in tone. So she started making a conscious effort to lower her voice to a growly baritone (or as close as she could get to it) when talking with such patients.

Last time Andy stayed with her, she tried the technique on him, too. And it worked just as well.

So instead of just upping the volume with heard-of-hearing pets, you might also try lowering the tone.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The first dog I house-trained using a crate was Andy, who'll be 15 years old in June, just to give you an idea of the amount of time that has passed since. Before Andy, I scooted a lot of puppies and dogs outside at the first sign of a squat, and cleaned up a lot of messes when my timing was off or my attention was elsewhere.

Clever boy that he is, young Andy learned the house rules in a couple of weeks, without a single misplaced puddle or pile. From that point on, I've been sold on crates. They are an essential part of puppy-raising, and a good investment in developing the kind of relationship you dream of having with your dog.

Finding the right size of crate is the first step to house-training your pup. Pick a crate that fits your puppy now, with just enough room to stand and turn around. (With a crate that's too big, a pup may decide to use one end for sleeping and the other as a relief zone. It pays to shop around, or simply to ask around. The crate you need could be gathering dust in a friend's storage area, or you can buy one rather inexpensively at a tag sale.

Crate-training limits a puppy's options to three: He's either empty and playing in the house, or he's in the crate and "holding it" because he doesn't want to sit in his own waste, or he's at the place you've chosen for him to relieve himself. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, or after a period of play. Set up a schedule to accommodate his needs -- puppies can't go very long without eating, drinking, sleeping or relieving themselves -- as you work to mold behavior. A good rule of thumb: Puppies can hold it as long as their age in months. A 2-month-old pup can hold it for two hours, for example, up to a limit of about eight to 10 hours for adult dogs.

Let the puppy sleep next to your bed in the crate -- sleeping near you speeds the bonding process -- and lead him to the chosen outside spot as soon as he's awake in the morning. When he goes, praise him thoroughly with words and pats. Then take him inside for breakfast. Feed him and offer him water, and then take him out for another chance to go. If he goes, more praise and back inside for play. If you're not sure he's completely empty, put him in the crate.

Ignore the whines and whimpers. A dog has to learn to stay by himself without waking the neighborhood or destroying the furniture, and the time to start learning is when he's still a pup. If left alone, the puppy will soon be fast asleep and will stay that way until it's time for the next round of out, eat/drink, out, play, crate.

Eventually, your pet will be spending more of his time loose in the house under your supervision, and he will start asking to visit his outdoor spot. Don't forget to confirm his early attempts at proper behavior by praising him profusely.

If you spot an in-house accident, don't punish your pet. Rubbing his nose in it is pointless and mean. If you catch your dog in the act, a stern "no" will suffice, followed by an immediate trip to the yard and praise when he finishes up where he's supposed to. Clean up the inside mess thoroughly, and treat the area with a vinegar-and-water solution to neutralize the smell.

With crate-training, the number of such incidents will be few, and you'll end up with a dog who is not only reliable in the house, but also confident in his own abilities to stay alone when you are gone.

Using a crate to house-train is truly the easy way, on both you and your pup.

PETS ON THE WEB

The cute reptiles we call geckos are the stars of the Global Gecko Association's informational Web site (www.gekkota.com). The site encourages people to join the association, which offers its members a semiannual color journal and regular newsletters. The GGA isn't stingy with its information, though, and it offers care information and photographs on the Web site to anyone who wants to click them up.

The photographs are a little hard to use because most of the listings use the scientific names of the species, not the common ones. So if you're looking for a picture of the good-natured leopard gecko, you're going to need to know that the scientific name is Eublepharis macularius to find a picture of these reptilian cuties on the site.

The GGA offers a generous selection of useful links and classifieds to help gecko lovers buy and sell equipment and more. I was particularly taken with the "personal" listings, which turned out not to be for gecko fans to find one another, but rather to help lonely geckos find mates.

THE SCOOP

If you're looking for a way to share some of the generosity of the holidays, spread some of your goodwill at your local animal shelter. Most shelters have a "wish list" of goods that will help them help animals, and many aren't expensive at all.

At the top of the list of things that shelters go through constantly are newspapers and old towels. New goods that will help include can openers, office supplies, pet food and cat-box filler.

Finally, don't forget that nothing is as versatile as the gift of money. You can give money outright, in memory of a special pet, or you could honor your friends and family with the gift of shelter memberships. Every little bit helps!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am curious about putting a large dog (100 pounds) on a plane for a flight of 3 1/2 hours flying time. I am not in favor of this. What are your thoughts? -- B.G., via e-mail

A: The kind of flight you're talking about -- direct -- is probably the safest of all airline adventures for a pet. It's those trips with layovers and plane changes that tend to make me nervous.

Still, while air travel may be no picnic for those family members who must fly in the cargo holds, it's really pretty safe, with the airline industry's figures claiming that 99 percent of all pets shipped by air arrive safely.

Putting your pet in the care of strangers is never easy. But you can and should take steps to ensure a smooth and safe trip. Here are some tips:

-- Talk to the airline. The carriers that take animals - not all do -- have limits on the number of animals on a flight because a set amount of air is available in the sealed cargo holds. You also need to know the rules for your particular airline, including where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers (health certificate, and so on) you'll need to bring. Also, you'll need to know the airline's rules for when they cannot ship pets at all -- when it's too cold or too hot.

-- Be sure that your pet is in good health and isn't one of the pug-nosed breeds. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle. Boxers, Pekingese, pugs, Persians, and other dogs and cats like them are likely better off on the ground than in a cargo hold.

-- Be sure that your pet is traveling in a proper carrier that has contact phone numbers at both ends of the journey. The crate should be just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in, and you should be sure all the bolts holding the carrier in place are as tight as possible. Put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around your pet's neck. (It's not safe for an animal to travel in a crate while wearing a collar.)

-- Don't ship your pet when the weather is bad or when air traffic is heaviest. Avoid peak travel days. And be sure to choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departure airport but also at the connecting and arriving airports. In winter, a day flight is likely better, while the reverse is true in the summer.

-- Be on the same flight as your pet whenever possible. Keeping on top of things is easier when you're there to talk to airline personnel directly. Also, cats and small dogs can often fly in the cabin if accompanying a paying passenger.

-- Choose a direct flight. If that's not possible, try for a route with a short layover. Most pet fatalities occur on the ground, when pets are left in their crates exposed to the elements on airport tarmacs or left struggling for air in ignored cargo holds. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce time on the ground.

-- Remember that your pet's life relies on the attentiveness of airline personnel. Most of these employees are excellent and caring, but mistakes do happen. You should be prepared to pester airline personnel to confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made the same connections you have. If your pet is flying unaccompanied, talk to freight-handling personnel at every airport the animal will visit. Be polite but persistent. And don't take "I'm sure he's fine" as an answer. Make sure staff members check on your pet and report back.

Contrary to popular belief, it's generally better that your pet not be tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge your pet's body is better prepared to meet if not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. Discuss the issue with your veterinarian.

Q: One little trick I have found that sometimes works when introducing cats (and this counts only if people groom their cats) is to brush the resident cat and then the new cat without cleaning out the brush between, then back to the resident cat and so on. It seems as if the new cat doesn't smell quite so "new" this way. -- Peggy, Magic, Sneezy, Phobe and Phadra, via e-mail

A: Thanks for the tip, Peggy. It seems as if you have a happy houseful! Cat introductions are tricky business, to be sure, and strategies like yours are always worth a try.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Nothing you buy is as important to your bird as a cage.

A cage is your bird's home, the place where he will spend much of his time -- maybe even all his time, in the case of small birds such as canaries and other finches. A cage not only protects your bird, but it also protects your possessions. Any bird can leave a poopy mess behind, and many pet birds are capable of reducing prize antiques to toothpicks with their powerful beaks.

You want your bird to be safe and feel secure in his cage. He should also feel included as part of the family, even when he's confined. Assuming you have a proper cage -- well-designed, large, and made of safe and sturdy materials -- proper placement can achieve all these goals. (A good rule of thumb on size is to choose the next cage larger from what the labeling says. Your cockatiel will be far happier in a cage designed for a small parrot, for example.)

Choose a location where your bird can be adjacent to family activities but not in the center of them. A bird will feel most comfortable if his cage is against a wall, so he can watch the goings-on without having to worry about anyone sneaking up on him. For the same reason, place the cage where your bird cannot be frightened -- for example, away from large furniture that may block his view of the room, and the coming and going of family and friends. Birds don't like to be startled any more than we do!

Position the cage far enough away from a window that direct sun rays don't fall on your bird and possibly overheat him, since he cannot escape. Putting the cage near (as opposed to next to) a window so your bird can see out isn't a bad idea, though, especially if the window overlooks a changing panorama that can help keep your pet entertained.

Although the kitchen may seem like an ideal place for your bird's cage, it's really not a good idea at all. The potential for your bird to breathe deadly fumes, such as those from overheated nonstick cookware, is too high in the kitchen. These products can kill your bird before you even realize there's a problem. Since you can't guarantee you'll never overheat a saucepan or cookie sheet, the best thing to do is keep your bird safely away from the potential danger.

Probably the best place to situate your bird's home is the family room or any other place (aside from the kitchen) where the people in your home hang out.

After choosing the location, set up the cage. Don't get too enthusiastic about toys. Two or three well-chosen ones are fine, but more might be overwhelming to your pet at first. Use a variety of natural and store-bought perches, and be sure to position them so they aren't directly over food and water dishes. You don't want to encourage your bird to poop into his dishes.

Line the cage bottom (newspaper is fine for this purpose), and you're ready to introduce your bird to his new home. Don't be surprised if he reacts with horror, though. It's only natural.

Predators always consider the possibility that something new in their environment may be edible. Prey animals have to figure out if the addition is something that could eat them. Is it any wonder, then, that our pet birds, who are considered a tasty mouthful by many creatures in the wild, may not react with enthusiasm to changes in the world around them?

You can help your bird conquer his anxiety by putting the new cage next to the old one for a few days if possible so your bird can observe it. Even if the new cage is his first, and you have no choice but to put him directly into it, be patient and understanding during the transitional period. Your bird will soon be enjoying his new environment.

PETS ON THE WEB

When photographer Genaro Molina and I both worked at The Sacramento Bee newspaper a few years back, he showed me a collection of achingly sad and lovely photographs of his cat, Ferris. The animal had been diagnosed with ringworm and had been shaved of his coat of beautiful long fur as part of the treatment. Molina's photographs traced the cat's way back to beauty, and also to the decision to let Ferris do what he so desperately seemed to want: to go outdoors, if only to the safety of a secured back yard.

Molina is now with the Los Angeles Times, and with the help of writer Patricia Housen, Ferris is now both on the Web and in print. The "Ferris in Exile" site (www.ferrisinexile.com) shows a few of the best pictures from the book, which Molina and Housen ended up publishing on their own. You can enjoy Ferris on the Web, but the book is what you'll want to have. It's $7.95, plus $2.30 shipping and handling. You can order it on the Web site, or from Ronin Books, 1718 Sunset Ave., Santa Monica, CA 90405. Molina says if you ask, the book will be sent to you autographed.

THE SCOOP

The big office-supply chains are pushing paper shredders as gifts, so certainly there'll be a lot of these appliances gift-wrapped and given out during the holidays. While shredding credit-card receipts and the like may be a good crime-stopping practice, these machines do present a danger to pets.

In recent weeks I've received letters from two people whose curious dogs got their tongues shredded in the machine. One of the dogs was so severely injured he had to be euthanized. If you get or plan to give a paper shredder, make sure safety is kept in mind. Never leave a paper shredder unattended, and always unplug it when not in use.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How would you go about traveling with a cat who doesn't sit still for very long? I took her on a trip to my grandmother's home a while back, and she wouldn't sit still. We don't have a cage or cat kennel or anything of the sort. -- R.K., via e-mail

A: If socialized to travel early in their lives, some cats learn to accept a life on the road with grace. I know of people who live in their motor homes, and they wouldn't think of traveling without their cats. And show cats certainly get used to being in cars or planes, and staying in strange hotel rooms.

Still, cats aren't exactly keen on changes in their environment, and most probably would prefer to stay home in surroundings they know well. That's why I usually tell people to leave their cats behind in their own homes, with a friend, neighbor or reputable pet-sitter checking in a couple of times a day.

If you decide to take your cat anywhere, you'll need to get a carrier. They're not expensive. Low-end carriers start at less than $15 in catalogs, pet-supply superstores and on retail Web sites. Your cat will feel more secure in a carrier and will be less likely to distract you when driving or to injure herself out of fear.

Your cat sounds like an antsy traveler, so I would recommend leaving her at home on your next visit to Gram's. And when your cat absolutely must hit the road (to see her veterinarian, for example), make sure she's comfortable and safe in her own carrier before the two of you step out the door.

Q: I was very interested to read in your recent column about Kong toys. We've had them for years, and you're right: Dogs love them. Our Rottweiler is capable of destroying them, however, and we've not been able to get one replaced at our pet store. They say it's not the company's policy. You said it is. What gives? -- H.W., via e-mail

A: What gives is that I blew it ... sort of. While the Kong Co. does not have a lifetime replacement policy, it will work with individual customers on a case-by-case basis.

"The only time I typeset the word 'indestructible' is in the phrase 'no toy is indestructible,'" says Jim Golden, a representative of the Golden, Colo.-based company. "Our guarantee is that your dog will love it or we'll buy it back."

Clearly, a dog who destroys a Kong loves it plenty, notes Golden. The company has replaced Kongs that have been quickly reduced to pieces by strong, enthusiastic chewers, but believes a Kong that lasts for months has provided the customer with his money's worth.

Golden says a lot of times people choose the wrong Kong for their pet, or the wrong size. Some models are designed for retrieving, not nonstop chewing. The large black Kong is the model of choice for strong chewers and should hold up well for most dogs.

"Our products are so well-made that people think they're indestructible, but that's not true," says Golden. "We figure it's like tires. The best will last longer, but they still wear out."

Maybe so, but I wish I had tires on my car that last as long as Kongs do in my house. The oldest Kong I have, a medium-sized red one, I bought when my dog Lance (who died 12 years ago) was a puppy. The year of his birth: 1978.

You can reach the Kong Co. by phone at (303) 216-2626, or through its Web site at www.kongcompany.com.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600