The first dog I house-trained using a crate was Andy, who'll be 15 years old in June, just to give you an idea of the amount of time that has passed since. Before Andy, I scooted a lot of puppies and dogs outside at the first sign of a squat, and cleaned up a lot of messes when my timing was off or my attention was elsewhere.

Clever boy that he is, young Andy learned the house rules in a couple of weeks, without a single misplaced puddle or pile. From that point on, I've been sold on crates. They are an essential part of puppy-raising, and a good investment in developing the kind of relationship you dream of having with your dog.

Finding the right size of crate is the first step to house-training your pup. Pick a crate that fits your puppy now, with just enough room to stand and turn around. (With a crate that's too big, a pup may decide to use one end for sleeping and the other as a relief zone. It pays to shop around, or simply to ask around. The crate you need could be gathering dust in a friend's storage area, or you can buy one rather inexpensively at a tag sale.

Crate-training limits a puppy's options to three: He's either empty and playing in the house, or he's in the crate and "holding it" because he doesn't want to sit in his own waste, or he's at the place you've chosen for him to relieve himself. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, or after a period of play. Set up a schedule to accommodate his needs -- puppies can't go very long without eating, drinking, sleeping or relieving themselves -- as you work to mold behavior. A good rule of thumb: Puppies can hold it as long as their age in months. A 2-month-old pup can hold it for two hours, for example, up to a limit of about eight to 10 hours for adult dogs.

Let the puppy sleep next to your bed in the crate -- sleeping near you speeds the bonding process -- and lead him to the chosen outside spot as soon as he's awake in the morning. When he goes, praise him thoroughly with words and pats. Then take him inside for breakfast. Feed him and offer him water, and then take him out for another chance to go. If he goes, more praise and back inside for play. If you're not sure he's completely empty, put him in the crate.

Ignore the whines and whimpers. A dog has to learn to stay by himself without waking the neighborhood or destroying the furniture, and the time to start learning is when he's still a pup. If left alone, the puppy will soon be fast asleep and will stay that way until it's time for the next round of out, eat/drink, out, play, crate.

Eventually, your pet will be spending more of his time loose in the house under your supervision, and he will start asking to visit his outdoor spot. Don't forget to confirm his early attempts at proper behavior by praising him profusely.

If you spot an in-house accident, don't punish your pet. Rubbing his nose in it is pointless and mean. If you catch your dog in the act, a stern "no" will suffice, followed by an immediate trip to the yard and praise when he finishes up where he's supposed to. Clean up the inside mess thoroughly, and treat the area with a vinegar-and-water solution to neutralize the smell.

With crate-training, the number of such incidents will be few, and you'll end up with a dog who is not only reliable in the house, but also confident in his own abilities to stay alone when you are gone.

Using a crate to house-train is truly the easy way, on both you and your pup.

PETS ON THE WEB

The cute reptiles we call geckos are the stars of the Global Gecko Association's informational Web site (www.gekkota.com). The site encourages people to join the association, which offers its members a semiannual color journal and regular newsletters. The GGA isn't stingy with its information, though, and it offers care information and photographs on the Web site to anyone who wants to click them up.

The photographs are a little hard to use because most of the listings use the scientific names of the species, not the common ones. So if you're looking for a picture of the good-natured leopard gecko, you're going to need to know that the scientific name is Eublepharis macularius to find a picture of these reptilian cuties on the site.

The GGA offers a generous selection of useful links and classifieds to help gecko lovers buy and sell equipment and more. I was particularly taken with the "personal" listings, which turned out not to be for gecko fans to find one another, but rather to help lonely geckos find mates.

THE SCOOP

If you're looking for a way to share some of the generosity of the holidays, spread some of your goodwill at your local animal shelter. Most shelters have a "wish list" of goods that will help them help animals, and many aren't expensive at all.

At the top of the list of things that shelters go through constantly are newspapers and old towels. New goods that will help include can openers, office supplies, pet food and cat-box filler.

Finally, don't forget that nothing is as versatile as the gift of money. You can give money outright, in memory of a special pet, or you could honor your friends and family with the gift of shelter memberships. Every little bit helps!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am curious about putting a large dog (100 pounds) on a plane for a flight of 3 1/2 hours flying time. I am not in favor of this. What are your thoughts? -- B.G., via e-mail

A: The kind of flight you're talking about -- direct -- is probably the safest of all airline adventures for a pet. It's those trips with layovers and plane changes that tend to make me nervous.

Still, while air travel may be no picnic for those family members who must fly in the cargo holds, it's really pretty safe, with the airline industry's figures claiming that 99 percent of all pets shipped by air arrive safely.

Putting your pet in the care of strangers is never easy. But you can and should take steps to ensure a smooth and safe trip. Here are some tips:

-- Talk to the airline. The carriers that take animals - not all do -- have limits on the number of animals on a flight because a set amount of air is available in the sealed cargo holds. You also need to know the rules for your particular airline, including where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers (health certificate, and so on) you'll need to bring. Also, you'll need to know the airline's rules for when they cannot ship pets at all -- when it's too cold or too hot.

-- Be sure that your pet is in good health and isn't one of the pug-nosed breeds. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle. Boxers, Pekingese, pugs, Persians, and other dogs and cats like them are likely better off on the ground than in a cargo hold.

-- Be sure that your pet is traveling in a proper carrier that has contact phone numbers at both ends of the journey. The crate should be just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in, and you should be sure all the bolts holding the carrier in place are as tight as possible. Put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around your pet's neck. (It's not safe for an animal to travel in a crate while wearing a collar.)

-- Don't ship your pet when the weather is bad or when air traffic is heaviest. Avoid peak travel days. And be sure to choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departure airport but also at the connecting and arriving airports. In winter, a day flight is likely better, while the reverse is true in the summer.

-- Be on the same flight as your pet whenever possible. Keeping on top of things is easier when you're there to talk to airline personnel directly. Also, cats and small dogs can often fly in the cabin if accompanying a paying passenger.

-- Choose a direct flight. If that's not possible, try for a route with a short layover. Most pet fatalities occur on the ground, when pets are left in their crates exposed to the elements on airport tarmacs or left struggling for air in ignored cargo holds. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce time on the ground.

-- Remember that your pet's life relies on the attentiveness of airline personnel. Most of these employees are excellent and caring, but mistakes do happen. You should be prepared to pester airline personnel to confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made the same connections you have. If your pet is flying unaccompanied, talk to freight-handling personnel at every airport the animal will visit. Be polite but persistent. And don't take "I'm sure he's fine" as an answer. Make sure staff members check on your pet and report back.

Contrary to popular belief, it's generally better that your pet not be tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge your pet's body is better prepared to meet if not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. Discuss the issue with your veterinarian.

Q: One little trick I have found that sometimes works when introducing cats (and this counts only if people groom their cats) is to brush the resident cat and then the new cat without cleaning out the brush between, then back to the resident cat and so on. It seems as if the new cat doesn't smell quite so "new" this way. -- Peggy, Magic, Sneezy, Phobe and Phadra, via e-mail

A: Thanks for the tip, Peggy. It seems as if you have a happy houseful! Cat introductions are tricky business, to be sure, and strategies like yours are always worth a try.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Nothing you buy is as important to your bird as a cage.

A cage is your bird's home, the place where he will spend much of his time -- maybe even all his time, in the case of small birds such as canaries and other finches. A cage not only protects your bird, but it also protects your possessions. Any bird can leave a poopy mess behind, and many pet birds are capable of reducing prize antiques to toothpicks with their powerful beaks.

You want your bird to be safe and feel secure in his cage. He should also feel included as part of the family, even when he's confined. Assuming you have a proper cage -- well-designed, large, and made of safe and sturdy materials -- proper placement can achieve all these goals. (A good rule of thumb on size is to choose the next cage larger from what the labeling says. Your cockatiel will be far happier in a cage designed for a small parrot, for example.)

Choose a location where your bird can be adjacent to family activities but not in the center of them. A bird will feel most comfortable if his cage is against a wall, so he can watch the goings-on without having to worry about anyone sneaking up on him. For the same reason, place the cage where your bird cannot be frightened -- for example, away from large furniture that may block his view of the room, and the coming and going of family and friends. Birds don't like to be startled any more than we do!

Position the cage far enough away from a window that direct sun rays don't fall on your bird and possibly overheat him, since he cannot escape. Putting the cage near (as opposed to next to) a window so your bird can see out isn't a bad idea, though, especially if the window overlooks a changing panorama that can help keep your pet entertained.

Although the kitchen may seem like an ideal place for your bird's cage, it's really not a good idea at all. The potential for your bird to breathe deadly fumes, such as those from overheated nonstick cookware, is too high in the kitchen. These products can kill your bird before you even realize there's a problem. Since you can't guarantee you'll never overheat a saucepan or cookie sheet, the best thing to do is keep your bird safely away from the potential danger.

Probably the best place to situate your bird's home is the family room or any other place (aside from the kitchen) where the people in your home hang out.

After choosing the location, set up the cage. Don't get too enthusiastic about toys. Two or three well-chosen ones are fine, but more might be overwhelming to your pet at first. Use a variety of natural and store-bought perches, and be sure to position them so they aren't directly over food and water dishes. You don't want to encourage your bird to poop into his dishes.

Line the cage bottom (newspaper is fine for this purpose), and you're ready to introduce your bird to his new home. Don't be surprised if he reacts with horror, though. It's only natural.

Predators always consider the possibility that something new in their environment may be edible. Prey animals have to figure out if the addition is something that could eat them. Is it any wonder, then, that our pet birds, who are considered a tasty mouthful by many creatures in the wild, may not react with enthusiasm to changes in the world around them?

You can help your bird conquer his anxiety by putting the new cage next to the old one for a few days if possible so your bird can observe it. Even if the new cage is his first, and you have no choice but to put him directly into it, be patient and understanding during the transitional period. Your bird will soon be enjoying his new environment.

PETS ON THE WEB

When photographer Genaro Molina and I both worked at The Sacramento Bee newspaper a few years back, he showed me a collection of achingly sad and lovely photographs of his cat, Ferris. The animal had been diagnosed with ringworm and had been shaved of his coat of beautiful long fur as part of the treatment. Molina's photographs traced the cat's way back to beauty, and also to the decision to let Ferris do what he so desperately seemed to want: to go outdoors, if only to the safety of a secured back yard.

Molina is now with the Los Angeles Times, and with the help of writer Patricia Housen, Ferris is now both on the Web and in print. The "Ferris in Exile" site (www.ferrisinexile.com) shows a few of the best pictures from the book, which Molina and Housen ended up publishing on their own. You can enjoy Ferris on the Web, but the book is what you'll want to have. It's $7.95, plus $2.30 shipping and handling. You can order it on the Web site, or from Ronin Books, 1718 Sunset Ave., Santa Monica, CA 90405. Molina says if you ask, the book will be sent to you autographed.

THE SCOOP

The big office-supply chains are pushing paper shredders as gifts, so certainly there'll be a lot of these appliances gift-wrapped and given out during the holidays. While shredding credit-card receipts and the like may be a good crime-stopping practice, these machines do present a danger to pets.

In recent weeks I've received letters from two people whose curious dogs got their tongues shredded in the machine. One of the dogs was so severely injured he had to be euthanized. If you get or plan to give a paper shredder, make sure safety is kept in mind. Never leave a paper shredder unattended, and always unplug it when not in use.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How would you go about traveling with a cat who doesn't sit still for very long? I took her on a trip to my grandmother's home a while back, and she wouldn't sit still. We don't have a cage or cat kennel or anything of the sort. -- R.K., via e-mail

A: If socialized to travel early in their lives, some cats learn to accept a life on the road with grace. I know of people who live in their motor homes, and they wouldn't think of traveling without their cats. And show cats certainly get used to being in cars or planes, and staying in strange hotel rooms.

Still, cats aren't exactly keen on changes in their environment, and most probably would prefer to stay home in surroundings they know well. That's why I usually tell people to leave their cats behind in their own homes, with a friend, neighbor or reputable pet-sitter checking in a couple of times a day.

If you decide to take your cat anywhere, you'll need to get a carrier. They're not expensive. Low-end carriers start at less than $15 in catalogs, pet-supply superstores and on retail Web sites. Your cat will feel more secure in a carrier and will be less likely to distract you when driving or to injure herself out of fear.

Your cat sounds like an antsy traveler, so I would recommend leaving her at home on your next visit to Gram's. And when your cat absolutely must hit the road (to see her veterinarian, for example), make sure she's comfortable and safe in her own carrier before the two of you step out the door.

Q: I was very interested to read in your recent column about Kong toys. We've had them for years, and you're right: Dogs love them. Our Rottweiler is capable of destroying them, however, and we've not been able to get one replaced at our pet store. They say it's not the company's policy. You said it is. What gives? -- H.W., via e-mail

A: What gives is that I blew it ... sort of. While the Kong Co. does not have a lifetime replacement policy, it will work with individual customers on a case-by-case basis.

"The only time I typeset the word 'indestructible' is in the phrase 'no toy is indestructible,'" says Jim Golden, a representative of the Golden, Colo.-based company. "Our guarantee is that your dog will love it or we'll buy it back."

Clearly, a dog who destroys a Kong loves it plenty, notes Golden. The company has replaced Kongs that have been quickly reduced to pieces by strong, enthusiastic chewers, but believes a Kong that lasts for months has provided the customer with his money's worth.

Golden says a lot of times people choose the wrong Kong for their pet, or the wrong size. Some models are designed for retrieving, not nonstop chewing. The large black Kong is the model of choice for strong chewers and should hold up well for most dogs.

"Our products are so well-made that people think they're indestructible, but that's not true," says Golden. "We figure it's like tires. The best will last longer, but they still wear out."

Maybe so, but I wish I had tires on my car that last as long as Kongs do in my house. The oldest Kong I have, a medium-sized red one, I bought when my dog Lance (who died 12 years ago) was a puppy. The year of his birth: 1978.

You can reach the Kong Co. by phone at (303) 216-2626, or through its Web site at www.kongcompany.com.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My friend Bruce is a successful business executive, as comfortable in the boardrooms of Fortune 500 companies as I am at the dog park. He is intensely competitive, highly motivated, and has been known to make miserable the lives of people who are not doing their jobs as he thinks they should be.

He is nobody's idea of a pushover, with one remarkable exception: He is incapable of controlling his dog.

I hear from people like this every day, of course. People whose Rottweilers drag them down the street, as if they were water-skiers following a motorboat, or whose Labradors pay no attention to their owners' entreaties that they not jump up on the guests. I've known huskies who can really haul when faced with an open front door and a split second of opportunity, and shepherds who shine at making fools of their owners.

But these are all big dogs. When Bruce calls me to complain about Margaret, he's talking about a dog who weighs just a tick over 11 pounds -- and who should weigh, I must note, just a tick less.

Margaret was a birthday gift from Bruce to his wife, and the problems likely began the very first day the tiny Maltese puppy came home from her breeder. Most toy breeds are blessed with more brains than seem reasonable for their tiny heads, and Maltese are especially clever. I doubt that it took little Margaret long to realize that the doting couple who hand-fed her freshly broiled pieces of chicken breast were going to be long on spoiling and short on discipline.

Practically every conversation I've had with Bruce since then has included a discussion of the dog's manners, or lack thereof. "She pulls on the leash," he complains. "She barks at guests," he whines.

I used to make sympathetic noises in response to his complaints and offer training tips. And I'd appeal to his own highly developed sense of personal discipline. "Bruce," I'd say in exasperation, "she's a tiny, tiny dog. Don't let her push you around."

No longer do I offer him advice, not only because he never follows it, but also because I've decided he likes Margaret just as she is. She may be a brat at times, but she's sure a cute one. Rule the house she most certainly does, but her reign is a good-natured one. She loves people and is especially adoring of her two special ones.

Such is the appeal of toy dogs. While other breeds were developed with a job in mind -- to herd, to hunt, to protect -- the toys have never had to do anything except love and be loved. And they're so good at it that we happily let them get away with behavior that would make us crazy with a big dog.

In the end, I suppose there's nothing all that wrong with a little brattiness in an 11-pound dog.

Bruce is of the same mind, although he'd likely not admit it. He called the other day from an outdoor cafe, where Margaret was sitting on his lap enjoying the parade of people walking past. "Do you think Margaret will ever learn to walk nicely on a leash?" he asked me, yet again.

I told him I didn't think so. And even from 3,000 miles away, I knew he was smiling indulgently at his sweet little tyrant of a dog.

PETS ON THE WEB

A few weeks ago, a letter-writer took me to task for not advocating seat belts for dogs. Since then, a few readers have recommended the Canine Automotive Restraint System site (www.canineauto.com) as a source of both equipment and information. The attractive and well-designed harness restraints will work with standard seat belts, cargo hooks and anchors for child-safety seats. The company reports that its products are also available as an option on Ford vehicles. Prices range from $22.50 to $32.50, depending on the size of the dog.

THE SCOOP

Pity the poor poinsettia, vilified as a killer of pets for years. It's time to welcome this lovely holiday greenery into your home again because the stories you have heard aren't true. Poinsettias are safe around your pets. Other holiday plants are more worrisome. Among the deadliest: lilies and mistletoe.

And plants aren't the only poisoning menace you'll find in homes this time of year. Those concoctions added to Christmas-tree water to extend the life of your greenery can be dangerous to a curious pet, too, as can the chocolate that seems to be everywhere during the holidays.

Your best bet is to keep the most dangerous elements out of your holiday home, and set up your tree and other decorations so you can keep pets away when you aren't around to watch them.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I need your opinion on clumping litter. I have a longhaired, Siamese-colored cat. As I watch Kimo groom after using his litter box, I worry that loose litter might ball up in his intestines. My veterinarian says that he has never run into this problem, but I am not certain. The clumping litter does make it easier to maintain the box, but I won't use it if it is harmful to the health of my cat. Your thoughts? -- P.L., via e-mail

A. You're certainly not the first person to be concerned about clumping litter, but this is one thing you can quit worrying about. No scientific evidence exists that this cat-box filler presents any danger to your pet.

The idea that it does traces to an article in a now-defunct cat magazine, in which the author blamed the popular product for the death of a kitten. Warnings have been kicking about the Internet ever since.

To err on the safe side, some veterinarians suggest avoiding clumping litter until a kitten is out of the taste-testing-everything curiosity stage. But even that advice is just a precaution for kittens only, and you don't need to fear any harm if you use clumping litter with adult cats.

If you look at it another way, clumping litter has likely saved the lives of many cats. According to CatWatch, a monthly newsletter put out by the Cornell Feline Health Center, preference polls indicate that cats prefer clumping litter to other varieties. This means that cats who avoid the box if it's filled with another litter type may use a clumping variety without problems. And since a lot of cats who avoid the litter box end up homeless, you could make a case that the introduction of clumping litter has kept more than a few cats in their homes.

Clumping litters are also popular with cat owners, who give clumping litter high marks for ease of use. Drawbacks include tracking problems, because the material that sticks to moisture on cat mess clings just as easily to moisture on cat paws. A mat around the box will help to keep things cleaner. The dustier varieties of these litters can also trigger attacks in asthmatic cats, especially if used with a covered box.

Longhaired cats like yours have another problem with clumping litter: It tends to collect around the genital area and back thighs of the cat. I don't worry so much about your cat's grooming. Cats don't swallow what they pull out of their fur. The bigger problem is that an accumulation of clumped litter can lead to a real mess, and potentially a problem in using the box. It's important to keep an eye on your cat's fur in these areas, and help out your cat when necessary with extra grooming or even by keeping the fur trimmed close in problem spots.

Q: We have used the Kong toys you wrote about for our two American Staffordshire mix pups, a male and female from the same litter. They have different personalities, but one thing they don't differ in is their ability to destroy a Kong. It used to take them a few days to thoroughly reduce a Kong to almost nothing. We had to stop buying Kongs at the rate they were eating them! -- R.F., via e-mail

A: For the vast majority of dogs, Kong toys are indestructible. But there are always going to be those dogs with the jaw strength to chew up anything. AmStaffs, pit-bull terriers and the like are probably at the top of this list, with their superpowered jaws and terrier tenacity, but other dogs likewise take the chewing of "indestructible" toys to be some kind of personal challenge.

My friend Jack reports that his tough-minded Australian cattle dogs will get it into their heads to chew up a Kong now and then. Knowing this, he keeps the receipt and the package, and the company makes good on its offer of a replacement when he takes what's left to the pet store.

I've never had to replace one. The only way Kongs disappear from my household is when we lose them. My retrievers give their Kongs a good chewing workout, but you couldn't tell by looking at even the oldest Kongs in the house. And I have a couple that are probably close to two decades old.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600