Nothing you buy is as important to your bird as a cage.

A cage is your bird's home, the place where he will spend much of his time -- maybe even all his time, in the case of small birds such as canaries and other finches. A cage not only protects your bird, but it also protects your possessions. Any bird can leave a poopy mess behind, and many pet birds are capable of reducing prize antiques to toothpicks with their powerful beaks.

You want your bird to be safe and feel secure in his cage. He should also feel included as part of the family, even when he's confined. Assuming you have a proper cage -- well-designed, large, and made of safe and sturdy materials -- proper placement can achieve all these goals. (A good rule of thumb on size is to choose the next cage larger from what the labeling says. Your cockatiel will be far happier in a cage designed for a small parrot, for example.)

Choose a location where your bird can be adjacent to family activities but not in the center of them. A bird will feel most comfortable if his cage is against a wall, so he can watch the goings-on without having to worry about anyone sneaking up on him. For the same reason, place the cage where your bird cannot be frightened -- for example, away from large furniture that may block his view of the room, and the coming and going of family and friends. Birds don't like to be startled any more than we do!

Position the cage far enough away from a window that direct sun rays don't fall on your bird and possibly overheat him, since he cannot escape. Putting the cage near (as opposed to next to) a window so your bird can see out isn't a bad idea, though, especially if the window overlooks a changing panorama that can help keep your pet entertained.

Although the kitchen may seem like an ideal place for your bird's cage, it's really not a good idea at all. The potential for your bird to breathe deadly fumes, such as those from overheated nonstick cookware, is too high in the kitchen. These products can kill your bird before you even realize there's a problem. Since you can't guarantee you'll never overheat a saucepan or cookie sheet, the best thing to do is keep your bird safely away from the potential danger.

Probably the best place to situate your bird's home is the family room or any other place (aside from the kitchen) where the people in your home hang out.

After choosing the location, set up the cage. Don't get too enthusiastic about toys. Two or three well-chosen ones are fine, but more might be overwhelming to your pet at first. Use a variety of natural and store-bought perches, and be sure to position them so they aren't directly over food and water dishes. You don't want to encourage your bird to poop into his dishes.

Line the cage bottom (newspaper is fine for this purpose), and you're ready to introduce your bird to his new home. Don't be surprised if he reacts with horror, though. It's only natural.

Predators always consider the possibility that something new in their environment may be edible. Prey animals have to figure out if the addition is something that could eat them. Is it any wonder, then, that our pet birds, who are considered a tasty mouthful by many creatures in the wild, may not react with enthusiasm to changes in the world around them?

You can help your bird conquer his anxiety by putting the new cage next to the old one for a few days if possible so your bird can observe it. Even if the new cage is his first, and you have no choice but to put him directly into it, be patient and understanding during the transitional period. Your bird will soon be enjoying his new environment.

PETS ON THE WEB

When photographer Genaro Molina and I both worked at The Sacramento Bee newspaper a few years back, he showed me a collection of achingly sad and lovely photographs of his cat, Ferris. The animal had been diagnosed with ringworm and had been shaved of his coat of beautiful long fur as part of the treatment. Molina's photographs traced the cat's way back to beauty, and also to the decision to let Ferris do what he so desperately seemed to want: to go outdoors, if only to the safety of a secured back yard.

Molina is now with the Los Angeles Times, and with the help of writer Patricia Housen, Ferris is now both on the Web and in print. The "Ferris in Exile" site (www.ferrisinexile.com) shows a few of the best pictures from the book, which Molina and Housen ended up publishing on their own. You can enjoy Ferris on the Web, but the book is what you'll want to have. It's $7.95, plus $2.30 shipping and handling. You can order it on the Web site, or from Ronin Books, 1718 Sunset Ave., Santa Monica, CA 90405. Molina says if you ask, the book will be sent to you autographed.

THE SCOOP

The big office-supply chains are pushing paper shredders as gifts, so certainly there'll be a lot of these appliances gift-wrapped and given out during the holidays. While shredding credit-card receipts and the like may be a good crime-stopping practice, these machines do present a danger to pets.

In recent weeks I've received letters from two people whose curious dogs got their tongues shredded in the machine. One of the dogs was so severely injured he had to be euthanized. If you get or plan to give a paper shredder, make sure safety is kept in mind. Never leave a paper shredder unattended, and always unplug it when not in use.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How would you go about traveling with a cat who doesn't sit still for very long? I took her on a trip to my grandmother's home a while back, and she wouldn't sit still. We don't have a cage or cat kennel or anything of the sort. -- R.K., via e-mail

A: If socialized to travel early in their lives, some cats learn to accept a life on the road with grace. I know of people who live in their motor homes, and they wouldn't think of traveling without their cats. And show cats certainly get used to being in cars or planes, and staying in strange hotel rooms.

Still, cats aren't exactly keen on changes in their environment, and most probably would prefer to stay home in surroundings they know well. That's why I usually tell people to leave their cats behind in their own homes, with a friend, neighbor or reputable pet-sitter checking in a couple of times a day.

If you decide to take your cat anywhere, you'll need to get a carrier. They're not expensive. Low-end carriers start at less than $15 in catalogs, pet-supply superstores and on retail Web sites. Your cat will feel more secure in a carrier and will be less likely to distract you when driving or to injure herself out of fear.

Your cat sounds like an antsy traveler, so I would recommend leaving her at home on your next visit to Gram's. And when your cat absolutely must hit the road (to see her veterinarian, for example), make sure she's comfortable and safe in her own carrier before the two of you step out the door.

Q: I was very interested to read in your recent column about Kong toys. We've had them for years, and you're right: Dogs love them. Our Rottweiler is capable of destroying them, however, and we've not been able to get one replaced at our pet store. They say it's not the company's policy. You said it is. What gives? -- H.W., via e-mail

A: What gives is that I blew it ... sort of. While the Kong Co. does not have a lifetime replacement policy, it will work with individual customers on a case-by-case basis.

"The only time I typeset the word 'indestructible' is in the phrase 'no toy is indestructible,'" says Jim Golden, a representative of the Golden, Colo.-based company. "Our guarantee is that your dog will love it or we'll buy it back."

Clearly, a dog who destroys a Kong loves it plenty, notes Golden. The company has replaced Kongs that have been quickly reduced to pieces by strong, enthusiastic chewers, but believes a Kong that lasts for months has provided the customer with his money's worth.

Golden says a lot of times people choose the wrong Kong for their pet, or the wrong size. Some models are designed for retrieving, not nonstop chewing. The large black Kong is the model of choice for strong chewers and should hold up well for most dogs.

"Our products are so well-made that people think they're indestructible, but that's not true," says Golden. "We figure it's like tires. The best will last longer, but they still wear out."

Maybe so, but I wish I had tires on my car that last as long as Kongs do in my house. The oldest Kong I have, a medium-sized red one, I bought when my dog Lance (who died 12 years ago) was a puppy. The year of his birth: 1978.

You can reach the Kong Co. by phone at (303) 216-2626, or through its Web site at www.kongcompany.com.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My friend Bruce is a successful business executive, as comfortable in the boardrooms of Fortune 500 companies as I am at the dog park. He is intensely competitive, highly motivated, and has been known to make miserable the lives of people who are not doing their jobs as he thinks they should be.

He is nobody's idea of a pushover, with one remarkable exception: He is incapable of controlling his dog.

I hear from people like this every day, of course. People whose Rottweilers drag them down the street, as if they were water-skiers following a motorboat, or whose Labradors pay no attention to their owners' entreaties that they not jump up on the guests. I've known huskies who can really haul when faced with an open front door and a split second of opportunity, and shepherds who shine at making fools of their owners.

But these are all big dogs. When Bruce calls me to complain about Margaret, he's talking about a dog who weighs just a tick over 11 pounds -- and who should weigh, I must note, just a tick less.

Margaret was a birthday gift from Bruce to his wife, and the problems likely began the very first day the tiny Maltese puppy came home from her breeder. Most toy breeds are blessed with more brains than seem reasonable for their tiny heads, and Maltese are especially clever. I doubt that it took little Margaret long to realize that the doting couple who hand-fed her freshly broiled pieces of chicken breast were going to be long on spoiling and short on discipline.

Practically every conversation I've had with Bruce since then has included a discussion of the dog's manners, or lack thereof. "She pulls on the leash," he complains. "She barks at guests," he whines.

I used to make sympathetic noises in response to his complaints and offer training tips. And I'd appeal to his own highly developed sense of personal discipline. "Bruce," I'd say in exasperation, "she's a tiny, tiny dog. Don't let her push you around."

No longer do I offer him advice, not only because he never follows it, but also because I've decided he likes Margaret just as she is. She may be a brat at times, but she's sure a cute one. Rule the house she most certainly does, but her reign is a good-natured one. She loves people and is especially adoring of her two special ones.

Such is the appeal of toy dogs. While other breeds were developed with a job in mind -- to herd, to hunt, to protect -- the toys have never had to do anything except love and be loved. And they're so good at it that we happily let them get away with behavior that would make us crazy with a big dog.

In the end, I suppose there's nothing all that wrong with a little brattiness in an 11-pound dog.

Bruce is of the same mind, although he'd likely not admit it. He called the other day from an outdoor cafe, where Margaret was sitting on his lap enjoying the parade of people walking past. "Do you think Margaret will ever learn to walk nicely on a leash?" he asked me, yet again.

I told him I didn't think so. And even from 3,000 miles away, I knew he was smiling indulgently at his sweet little tyrant of a dog.

PETS ON THE WEB

A few weeks ago, a letter-writer took me to task for not advocating seat belts for dogs. Since then, a few readers have recommended the Canine Automotive Restraint System site (www.canineauto.com) as a source of both equipment and information. The attractive and well-designed harness restraints will work with standard seat belts, cargo hooks and anchors for child-safety seats. The company reports that its products are also available as an option on Ford vehicles. Prices range from $22.50 to $32.50, depending on the size of the dog.

THE SCOOP

Pity the poor poinsettia, vilified as a killer of pets for years. It's time to welcome this lovely holiday greenery into your home again because the stories you have heard aren't true. Poinsettias are safe around your pets. Other holiday plants are more worrisome. Among the deadliest: lilies and mistletoe.

And plants aren't the only poisoning menace you'll find in homes this time of year. Those concoctions added to Christmas-tree water to extend the life of your greenery can be dangerous to a curious pet, too, as can the chocolate that seems to be everywhere during the holidays.

Your best bet is to keep the most dangerous elements out of your holiday home, and set up your tree and other decorations so you can keep pets away when you aren't around to watch them.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I need your opinion on clumping litter. I have a longhaired, Siamese-colored cat. As I watch Kimo groom after using his litter box, I worry that loose litter might ball up in his intestines. My veterinarian says that he has never run into this problem, but I am not certain. The clumping litter does make it easier to maintain the box, but I won't use it if it is harmful to the health of my cat. Your thoughts? -- P.L., via e-mail

A. You're certainly not the first person to be concerned about clumping litter, but this is one thing you can quit worrying about. No scientific evidence exists that this cat-box filler presents any danger to your pet.

The idea that it does traces to an article in a now-defunct cat magazine, in which the author blamed the popular product for the death of a kitten. Warnings have been kicking about the Internet ever since.

To err on the safe side, some veterinarians suggest avoiding clumping litter until a kitten is out of the taste-testing-everything curiosity stage. But even that advice is just a precaution for kittens only, and you don't need to fear any harm if you use clumping litter with adult cats.

If you look at it another way, clumping litter has likely saved the lives of many cats. According to CatWatch, a monthly newsletter put out by the Cornell Feline Health Center, preference polls indicate that cats prefer clumping litter to other varieties. This means that cats who avoid the box if it's filled with another litter type may use a clumping variety without problems. And since a lot of cats who avoid the litter box end up homeless, you could make a case that the introduction of clumping litter has kept more than a few cats in their homes.

Clumping litters are also popular with cat owners, who give clumping litter high marks for ease of use. Drawbacks include tracking problems, because the material that sticks to moisture on cat mess clings just as easily to moisture on cat paws. A mat around the box will help to keep things cleaner. The dustier varieties of these litters can also trigger attacks in asthmatic cats, especially if used with a covered box.

Longhaired cats like yours have another problem with clumping litter: It tends to collect around the genital area and back thighs of the cat. I don't worry so much about your cat's grooming. Cats don't swallow what they pull out of their fur. The bigger problem is that an accumulation of clumped litter can lead to a real mess, and potentially a problem in using the box. It's important to keep an eye on your cat's fur in these areas, and help out your cat when necessary with extra grooming or even by keeping the fur trimmed close in problem spots.

Q: We have used the Kong toys you wrote about for our two American Staffordshire mix pups, a male and female from the same litter. They have different personalities, but one thing they don't differ in is their ability to destroy a Kong. It used to take them a few days to thoroughly reduce a Kong to almost nothing. We had to stop buying Kongs at the rate they were eating them! -- R.F., via e-mail

A: For the vast majority of dogs, Kong toys are indestructible. But there are always going to be those dogs with the jaw strength to chew up anything. AmStaffs, pit-bull terriers and the like are probably at the top of this list, with their superpowered jaws and terrier tenacity, but other dogs likewise take the chewing of "indestructible" toys to be some kind of personal challenge.

My friend Jack reports that his tough-minded Australian cattle dogs will get it into their heads to chew up a Kong now and then. Knowing this, he keeps the receipt and the package, and the company makes good on its offer of a replacement when he takes what's left to the pet store.

I've never had to replace one. The only way Kongs disappear from my household is when we lose them. My retrievers give their Kongs a good chewing workout, but you couldn't tell by looking at even the oldest Kongs in the house. And I have a couple that are probably close to two decades old.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Perhaps because kittens are so very appealing, adult cats have the lowest adoption rate of all pets at many shelters. While prospective adopters head straight for the kitten section, the adult cats purr hopefully in their enclosures and thrust their soft paws beseechingly through the bars as if they understand the importance of catching someone's attention.

Too many never get a second chance at a good home, and that's just plain wrong.

Being overlooked at the shelter is bad news for the cats, of course, but it's also unfortunate for many people who don't realize that an adult cat may, in many cases, be a better choice than a kitten. Sure, kittens are cute, but they also can be a bit of a trial as they grow up. They need extra time, extra training and extra tolerance for all those crazy things that kittens do on the way to cathood.

An adult cat can slide quickly into your life with little fuss and muss. You know pretty well what you're getting with a grown cat -- activity level, sociability and health. Given time in a loving environment, a grown cat forms just as tight a bond with his new people as any kitten can. I believe that many animals who are adopted as adults are more appreciative, somehow, of their special person's role in saving their lives.

With adult cats, knowing a little of the animal's background is important, especially if your family has children or dogs. (A cat who has never experienced them may have a more difficult time adjusting to a new family that includes either or both.) You can ask your questions about background directly if adopting from the cat's original owner, but most shelters or rescue groups also try to provide some basic information, which they ask of the people giving up their pets.

What if the information isn't flattering to the cat? For example, what if he became available for adoption because of his failure to use a litter box? Give the cat the benefit of the doubt, if you have the time and patience to work on solving the problem. And remember, too, that you don't know the contributing factors. Maybe the litter box was never cleaned or was left in a spot that was convenient for the owner but disconcerting for the cat.

If at all possible, take each adult cat you're considering away from the caging area of the adoption center. Sit down with the animal in your lap, alone in a quiet place, and try to get a feel for the cat as an individual. Shelters are stressful places, so the cat may need a few quiet minutes to collect herself. A calm, confident and outgoing cat will respond pretty readily to your attention, relaxing in your lap, pushing for strokes and purring.

No matter how promising the initial meeting, remember that cats don't react well to change, so be prepared to give your new pet time to adjust to new surroundings once you take her home. Experts advise starting out your cat in a small, enclosed area -- a spare bathroom or small bedroom equipped with food and water, litter box, toys and a scratching post. A few days of quiet seclusion with frequent visits from you will relax your new pet and re-establish good litter-box habits.

This is the time of year when kittens become scarce, so you may have little choice but to consider an adult if you're itching to add a cat to your family. The lack of competition allows the adult cats to shine a little extra and gives you a chance to bring home a pet you'll adore for years to come.

PETS ON THE WEB

I guess Elizabeth Cusulas has given up on her plan to add more songs to her Talewaggers Doggie Carols Web site (www.ddc.com/waggers/carols.html), since the last entry promises new carols for last year -- which never materialized.

No matter. The 14 songs from previous years are more than enough to make this page a must-visit at this time of year. "The Twelve Days of Puppy" takes a humorous turn on an old favorite, with each passing day revealing a new spot where the Christmas puppy left a puddle. Perhaps because I have a house full of dogs who live for tennis balls, her puppyfied version of "Silver Bells" is still my favorite, with its catchy reprise: "Tennis balls, tennis balls/Perfection round and inviting/Roll and play, all the day/Please, Santa, toss some our way."

THE SCOOP

The promise of a puppy is much better than the real thing come Christmas Day. Puppies need training and socialization, both of which are difficult to accomplish in the short, cold days of winter. As a result, a lot of Christmas puppies are Christmas memories by summertime, when their puppy cuteness has given way to gawky adolescence and their lack of manners has become intolerable.

There is no demand for ill-behaved former Christmas puppies, and many of these youngsters will never get a chance to grow old as a beloved family pet. It's a tragedy that's completely avoidable. If you want a puppy, wait until spring or summer, when it's more likely you'll have the time you need to raise your puppy right. For Christmas, wrap up a dog book and a collar and leash, and tell the kids the pup of their dreams will be theirs soon.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our golden retriever is the best dog we have ever had, except for one problem we can't seem to solve. Butterball seems to think our cat's litter box is some kind of puppy buffet. We have yelled at her. We have smacked her. She knows it's wrong and tries to sneak her snack when we're not looking. This is a dog who loves to kiss, and I can't stand the idea of her kissing the kids, knowing where her mouth has been. Help us with this disgusting problem. -- B.G., via e-mail

A: As incredible as the thought seems to humans, many dogs do indeed consider cat feces to be every bit as wonderful as dog biscuits -- they're drawn to the undigested protein. When faced with a constant supply of litter "munchies" and ready access to them, no dog can resist for long, which is why efforts to train a dog to leave the litter box alone are rarely successful. The better plan is to restrict access, which you can accomplish in many ways. Here are a few suggestions:

-- Try covered litter boxes. Some cats don't like them, and cats with asthma can't use them because the concentration of dust inside the boxes can trigger an attack. If your cat falls into either category, this solution isn't going to work for you; otherwise, it may do the trick.

-- Change the litter box's location. You must be careful not to upset your cats. But experimenting with such ploys as gradually moving the litter box to a location above the dog's reach usually doesn't hurt.

-- Provide barriers. One way is to rig the door to the room containing the litter box so that it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. Another possibility is to install a cat-sized door in the door to the litter-box room if your dog is medium-sized or larger. For small dogs, try a baby gate -- the cat can jump it, but the dog can't.

-- Keep it clean. Don't forget to keep the box scooped: A dog can't eat what a dog can't find.

Experiment with any or all of these strategies, and stop yelling at and swatting your dog -- it's not an effective technique for problem-solving, as you've discovered. And it doesn't do much for the relationship with your cherished Butterball.

Q: I've read (maybe in your column) that the perches that come with a birdcage aren't good for my Pionus parrot, Petey. Is that true? And what should I be using instead? - T.F., via e-mail

A: There's nothing dangerous about the smooth pine dowels that come with most birdcages, but a more varied selection of perches is better for your bird's physical and mental health. Think variety -- rope, cement and wood perches should all find a place in your bird's cage. Natural wood perches, in particular, are wonderful because they feel good under your bird's feet and because they give him something to chew on.

Most fruit and nut trees (almond, apple, prune and all citrus) are fine to use, as are ash, elm, dogwood and magnolia. If you can get your pruners on some manzanita, go for it. It's a hard wood that can stand up to a lot of abuse. Try grapevines, too. And leave the bark on for your bird to peel off.

Cut the branches to a length to fit in your cage. Scrub and clean them well with detergent, rinse, and dry them in the sun. Check for insect egg pods; if you find them, just break them off and discard them before putting the branch in your pet's cage. (If you don't, you may find a zillion little buglets thinking it's spring in your home.) Think of perches as replaceable cage furnishings. Tearing them up is good for your bird, providing both exercise and entertainment.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600