When you have to fit everything you need for six months into a relatively small minivan, you make some tough decisions as to what you can live without. In my case, that meant leaving behind lots of books and clothes, and looking closely at what I packed for the dogs. In the end, little else for them went besides leashes, dishes -- and Kongs.

Which is how I got to thinking about just how important a single brand of pet toy has become in the lives of dogs and the people who love them.

Kong is king. The pet toy that's shaped like the Michelin tire man has come a long way since its creator adapted it from a rubber piece off the suspension system of an old VW van. There's one thing that hasn't changed, though: This is one toy that has stood up to the abuse of countless dogs, cats and even birds.

Kong is coming up on its 25th anniversary, and words of praise for the highly recommended toy have turned up in such well-respected publications as the dog-lover's literary magazine The Bark, and the alternative-care newsletter The Whole Dog Journal.

Both publications devoted space recently to articles describing the toy's place in fixing behavior problems, as well as the art of stuffing the Kong's hollow center with goodies to keep dogs occupied. (Alternating layers of peanut butter with dog cookies is time-tested favorite for dogs, while peanut butter and seeds will keep most any parrot busy.)

Kong has been around about as long as I've been an adult, so my critters have always had Kongs. These toys last pretty close to forever, and I swear the first one I ever bought is still bouncing around the house. (If you have one of those rare chewers so strong he can destroy a Kong, the company will replace the toy for free.)

The toys come in different sizes and colors. The ones I can't seem to keep around are those I call "Retriever Kongs" (the manufacturer calls them Kool Kongs), designed to float and equipped with a rope for throwing. The vagaries of currents and tides, and the boneheadedness of certain retrievers in my family, means I seem to lose one of these toys a month. I figure they end up the same place that missing socks do, and I buy both Kool Kongs and socks in bulk and on sale so I'll always have both available.

Why are Kongs so remarkable? Part of the answer is durability; part is flexibility. The Kong stands up to countless hours of chewing, and its shape lends itself to erratic bounces that add interest to the most ordinary game of fetch.

You can use Kongs, especially the rope-equipped models, to keep your dog exercised. They're so popular at my favorite dog park that you can usually see one or two that are stuck in a tree from an errant throw. Probably more important is the use of Kongs to help dogs with separation anxiety, pets who get so upset at being left alone that they engage in destructive behavior. A goody-stuffed Kong offers a harmless alternative to chewing the sofa or scratching the windowsill.

I get news of dozens of new pet products every year and samples of dozens more. I almost never write about them because they're mostly just variations on some familiar themes, or are something new that's perhaps nice to have but in no way essential to keeping a pet happy. But like many veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists, I find myself recommending Kongs constantly. Any product that gets such universal support over so many years deserves a moment in the spotlight.

Kong is still the king of pet toys, and I haven't seen anything even come close to taking the crown.

PETS ON THE WEB

Here's a Web site to save for a rainy afternoon, because you'll be spending a lot of time on it once you get there. The Index of Famous Dogs, Cats and Critters Web site (www.citizenlunchbox.com/famous) lists more than 4,000 animals who are famous in their own right (like Lassie) or belonged to someone notable (like Franklin Delano Roosevelt's Scottish terrier, Fala).

I really liked how the site codes each entry as to whether the information has been confirmed as accurate or is just an educated guess. With so much bad information on the Internet, it's refreshing to see a site that wants to be sure what's being shared is accurate. And on the site's "famous dogs" page, don't miss the comprehensive listing of canines who have been characters on the TV show "The Simpsons." It's a hoot!

THE SCOOP

Clumping cat litter is great stuff indeed, but sometimes it gets where it shouldn't. Cats with silky, long hair sometimes get litter stuck to their fannies and the insides of their legs -- the moisture that catches on their fur from using the box attracts the litter. And then there's tracking: Moisture on a cat's paws can grab litter, which then gets rubbed off throughout the house. Fortunately, you can minimize both problems.

With longhaired cats, if you're not inclined to comb out the spots that attract litter on at least a daily basis, then you should keep the trouble areas clipped short. As for tracking, putting a large sisal doormat under the litter box will help. The rough texture of the mat will help to knock the litter off your cat's paws.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I just lost one of my precious dogs to a choke-collar accident. My 2-year-old labs were wearing martingale-type choke collars, and one dog got his teeth and jaw caught in the other dog's collar. Before they could be cut apart, one of the dogs choked to death. I am devastated. If there is anything I can do to prevent this from happening to anyone else's dog, please let me know. -- L.F., via e-mail

A: I'm so sorry you had to learn the hard way about the dangers of these collars. As for helping to prevent another such tragedy, your story should go a long way.

If you use a choke collar, remember that it is to be put on at the same time as your leash when you're going to walk or train your dog, and taken off with the leash, as well. These collars (even the half-choke of the martingale) are not meant for use as everyday wear, and it's flat-out dangerous to use them for such a purpose. I cringe every time I see a dog who has his license and ID tags on a choke collar, a sure sign that collar is being used incorrectly.

Some folks are so collar-phobic that they won't put any collar on their dogs at all. They argue that their dogs are never out of the house or yard without supervision, and therefore don't need a collar and tags. Nonsense! Kids leave gates and doors open, fences blow down, and dogs find loose boards to wriggle through all the time. Without a collar and tags, a lost pet is far less likely to make it home again.

Take off any collar that tightens, and replace it with a well-fitted buckle or snap-together collar with a license and an ID tag with current information. This simple act is one of the most basic, and most powerful, ways of protecting your pet.

Q: I am at the age when adopting a young dog makes me concerned as to who may care for my pet when I am gone. So when I look to adopt, I now will take an older dog whose "parent" has passed on. Such dogs deserve to continue to live out their lives as normally as possible. I treat them as my children, and they return the favor by reading my mind and knowing what is required of them.

These dogs are great company, not as hard to train, and I love them very much. This practice should be mentioned to other older people who love animals but never thought of adopting an older pet. -- D.F., via e-mail

A: Older pets are often overlooked by people who are sure they cannot be happy with anything but a kitten or a puppy. But for many people, especially seniors, older pets are often the perfect choice.

You've touched on the reasons why. Many people in their 70s and 80s would enjoy and benefit from the company of a pet, but they shy from getting one because they are worried about the animal outliving them. With an older pet (five to 10 years of age or more), that worry is minimized. Older pets are often already trained and much less active than younger ones, making the transition from one home to another relatively easy.

When I was doing breed rescue, we had a very difficult time getting people to consider older pets. In some people's minds, an "older pet" is any animal over 1 year old! Although our sweet seniors usually stayed in foster care much longer than younger dogs, when they were matched with the right home, they were among our biggest success stories.

If you'd like to consider an older pet, check in with your local shelters, rescue groups or veterinarians. The right cat or dog for you will turn up soon enough.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the first things I did when I arrived at the house that will be my home for the next few months was find a pet-supply store. I had dog tags to order.

The ones the dogs were wearing were for a house that was 3,000 miles away, and I knew that wouldn't do them much good if they became lost now.

While any dog can become lost at any time, a new home is one place that presents a higher degree of risk. After all, sticking around home isn't easy for a dog who is unsure where home is yet.

The best time to protect your dog is before he gets out. ID tags are just one part of the plan. Here are some others.

-- Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards or enticing gaps at the baseline that could be opened up with a little digging? Are latches secure, with locks in place? Fix them all. If you have children going in and out all the time, invest in a device that pulls the gate closed automatically.

-- Check your dog. Don't waste time before getting him an ID tag. Instead of putting your pet's name and your address on the ID tag, use the word "REWARD" and as many phone numbers as you can fit on it. While some people are motivated by altruism, others are moved by the prospect of cold, hard cash. You want your pet back no matter who finds him.

Microchip implants, which carry ID numbers, are also a great idea. Make sure that your pet's permanent ID is registered so if someone discovers it, a fast reunion is possible. The American Kennel Club's Companion Animal Recovery Service can help with microchip matchups in the United States and Canada. And they don't just deal with purebred dogs; any kind of animal can be registered. Call 1-800-252-7894 for more information.

My pets also carry a tag from a 24-hour tracking service, 1-800-HELP4PETS. In addition to trying to locate me or my backup contacts, the company will authorize emergency veterinary care or boarding if I cannot be immediately found. I've had this service for three years, and although I've never had to call on them, it's great to know they're out there.

-- Keep current, clear pictures of your pets on hand. You may need them to throw together a flier in an emergency.

If you lose your pet, don't waste any time waiting for him to come home. Put up fliers in the area where your pet went missing and get friends to help you blanket the neighborhood, going door to door. Check the shelters every other day in person. A call won't do, because shelter staff may not recognize your pet or may overlook him. Place a "lost" ad in the newspaper, and check in with every veterinarian in the area, especially those open 24 hours for emergencies.

Finally, don't give up too soon. Pets have been located weeks after their disappearance. Keep running your ad and checking the shelters for at least a month.

PETS ON THE WEB

The University of Pennsylvania Cancer Center's incredible OncoLink Web site (http://oncolink.upenn.edu/upcc/) offers information on cancer for people. Now the university has a site offering information on animal cancers, too. With the help of the veterinary hospital at the university (which has a world-class veterinary college), OncoLinkVet (http://oncolink.upenn.edu/specialty/vet(underscore)onc) is treasure trove of a Web site designed to answer all the questions that come up when a pet is diagnosed with cancer.

Basic information on the kinds of cancers that pets contract is included, plus information on treatments. Every document (there are dozens) is thorough yet easy for the layperson to understand. In addition to the high-tech approach to cancer, the site also links to more information on alternative treatments.

If you have a pet who has just been diagnosed with any kind of cancer, you're facing some difficult decisions. OncoLinkVet is one place you must visit to help you navigate the choppy seas ahead.

THE SCOOP

Hay! Hay! If you're a rabbit, chances are good you're not getting enough hay in your diet. That's because a lot of people with pet rabbits get the idea that a formulated pellet diet is all their pet needs -- and that's just not true. Rabbits need fiber, which means hay, to keep their digestive system in top order and to keep hairballs working their way through and out of their systems. (Unlike cats, rabbits are not capable of vomiting, so a hairball problem can become a life-threatening intestinal blockage.) The act of chewing on hay also helps to stem the boredom of a life spent in confinement.

You should also add to your rabbit's diet with vegetables and fruits, making sure that they're well-washed first. The outer leaves of broccoli and cauliflower heads are a special treat that you might be able to get for free if you ask in the produce section of your grocery store. Carrots, especially the tops with greens intact, are another favorite, as are any kind of greens, mustard, collard, even dandelions. Fruit treats include apples, bananas and papayas (the last helps break down hairballs).

Always keep fresh hay available, offer fresh vegetables and fruit on a daily basis, and your rabbit will be happier and healthier.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I thought the general gist of your recent column on breed rescue was very good; however, I think you missed the biggest advantage of dealing with a rescue group. It's one place (often the only one) where a potential adopter is likely to get accurate information about the drawbacks of a particular breed.

One of the problems we see more and more with the advent of the Internet: It's easy to find out about all the wonderful things on a given breed. It can be very hard to find information about the not-so-wonderful things. Even some of the official AKC breed clubs do a very poor job of talking about the negatives of their chosen breed. And shelters often say that every dog will "make a wonderful family pet."

When you deal with a breed-rescue group, you stand a much better chance of finding out about the breed's typical behaviors, warts and all. –- Jack Russell, via e-mail

A: You're absolutely right. Breed-rescue volunteers know all too well what happens when people get a breed without knowing about potentially problem traits.

When I was doing Shetland sheepdog rescue for my local breed club, we were very careful to make sure that prospective adopters knew that all Shelties shed, and that many of them bark constantly, are shy, and engage in neurotic spinning when excited.

Those of us who love Shelties -– and I'm certainly among them -– overlook or work with the problem behaviors because we enjoy the company of these clever, affectionate and beautiful little dogs. But prospective adopters need to know what they're getting into, or any dog placed is more likely to boomerang into homelessness again.

Whenever you're thinking of adding a pet to your family -- no matter the kind of animal, the age or the source -- you need to educate yourself about the characteristics of the pet, both good and bad. If you get right down to it, a lack of education on the part of pet owners lands more animals in shelters and rescue groups than any other factor. Know what you're getting into with any pet, and be sure you're up to the challenge.

Note: The letter-writer knows his subject well. He's involved with the rescue of Australian cattle dogs in northern California, and works with other ACD rescue volunteers throughout the country. For more information on Australian cattle dog rescue, visit www.cattledog.com. For referrals on others breeds, go to the American Kennel Club's list of national breed-rescue coordinators (www.akc.org/breeds/rescue.cfm), or call the AKC at (919) 233-9767.

Q: Our shepherd mix puppy has her adult teeth in, but one of the baby teeth remains in front. Will it fall out on its own? Do we need to worry? -- R.E., via e-mail

A: Retained baby teeth are fairly common and nothing much to worry about, really. They do need to be dealt with, however. When your puppy goes in for his last round of vaccinations, mention the problem to your veterinarian. Chances are he or she will yank the tooth for you.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you want to challenge the assumption that you love your dogs, place them in a car already jam-packed with a fair amount of your belongings, and then drive nearly 3,000 miles in four days.

Now I've traveled plenty with dogs over the years (I can barely stand to leave them behind), but the longest drive I've ever taken was a two-day journey from my home in northern California to some dog shows in Colorado, and that was just with one dog. When the opportunity came up to spend a few months in a beach house in northern Florida, though, I knew I'd be driving, and I knew the dogs would be coming along.

The most important piece of equipment for traveling with a pet is a book that lists pet-friendly lodgings by state and province. The one I took was by AAA; Mobil offers one, too. I also figured I'd be using my laptop every night to check pet-travel Web sites (such as www.petswelcome.com and www.traveldog.com). But after a 12- to 14-hour day of driving, I found I didn't have the energy to turn on the computer or figure out where (or if) I could plug in the modem line. Considering that my fixed travel plan went off the rails the second day, having a book with listings (and a cell phone) proved to be invaluable.

The listings were useful, but the hotels themselves often aren't as pet-friendly as they seem. The majority limit guests to one small pet, not the two big retrievers and the oversized Sheltie who served as my traveling companions.

Still, there's always room for negotiation, even with hotels that insist on the small dogs I don't have. I found that by talking to the manager directly and offering a deposit or even an additional room fee, I was able to find decent lodging fairly easily every night. And I never once had to pay the additional fee or deposit that I offered. Feeling both grateful and responsible, I was sure to leave the room as free of dog hair as possible, and I scrupulously picked up any canine deposits on the grounds.

After lodging, exercising the dogs was the biggest challenge. Rest areas really aren't well-suited for canine travelers -- they're crowded and too close to the highway. Instead, I looked for fields at the edge of restaurant and gas clusters, off the road and far enough from traffic for a quick game of fetch. The retrievers are active dogs with high exercise requirements, and I'm not sure they would have made the journey as well as they did without a daily 30-minute workout.

Leashes are a necessary part of the traveling dog's gear, and I found both the standard 6-foot variety and the adjustable reel-type Flexi to be of equal value. The Flexi is great for those short stops when all a dog needs is a quick potty break, since the device gives a dog up to 30 feet of roaming without ever being off-leash. The one warning with these kinds of leashes is that their handles aren't meant to provide much security -- one good tug and the leash will fly from your hand. If your dog's a bolter, you're better off with a longer version of a traditional leash.

In the end, the journey turned out to be more long than challenging. The dogs were well-behaved, and the final destination made it well worth the effort. I loved my three dogs just as much at the end of the trip as I did at the beginning. And once they saw the beach where they'll be playing for the next few months, I swear they loved me even more.

PETS ON THE WEB

I'm so impressed with the Chameleon Journals Web site (www.chameleonjournals.com) that I will not resort to some silly comment about how it could be better if the background changed color. This extraordinary site simply could not be better in any way. It's one of the best-looking, best-organized and easiest-to-navigate pet pages I've ever run across, and it's packed with helpful and well-written information on these interesting creatures.

There is also great information on care, on finding a veterinarian (not all veterinarians are well-suited to caring for exotic pets), and on health problems that can doom a chameleon. In the Gallery section, you can find some lovely pictures as well as a time-lapse clip of a chameleon being born. And if you need more information, a click or two will sign you up for the chameleon e-mail list, where you can tap the expertise of other enthusiasts.

THE SCOOP

Many parrots, especially cockatoos, cockatiels, macaws and African parrots (both greys and smaller birds such as Senegals) love to have the area around their ear canal scratched.

The avian ear, like all of a bird's anatomy, is streamlined for flight, so you won't find an outer ear on a bird. Instead, look for a swirl of soft, protective feathers in the place where you think the ear should be.

Birds don't hear high- and low-pitched noises as well as we do, but within the range they do hear, they are able to discern more details. The song of a finch would have to be recorded and played at about one-tenth speed for us to be able to hear the richness and detail of sound a bird can.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My Westie, Bonnie, is 12 1/2 years old. She has been losing her hearing for a few months, and now she cannot hear me speak to her. She seems nervous about all of this, but our vet says she will get used to it in a few months.

Is there anything I can read to learn more about how to help me communicate better with her? I am working on hand signals for "come," "stay" and "treats."

I tried to find some info on the Internet and could only find that there is nothing you can do to correct hearing loss. (I knew that.) I want to know how to make my Bonnie feel comfortable and safe. I love her very much and will try hard to do anything to make her content. -- M.A., Rocklin, Calif.

A: Hearing loss is not uncommon in older pets, and your veterinarian is right: Your dog will adjust to the change soon. In fact, I have found over the years that people get more upset over their pet's hearing and vision loss than their pets do.

In my home, 14-year-old Andy is rapidly approaching total deafness, and I swear he finds it convenient -- no more of those pesky requests to do this or that. Like you, I have introduced hand signals for commands, and I've substituted treats and extra petting for the praise he can no longer hear. Since many older pets who are losing their hearing are losing their vision as well (this is true of Andy), I find it's useful to make hand signals as broad and dramatic as possible -- a swoop in of the arm for "come" instead of a little hand wave.

The important things to remember about living with a deaf dog are to avoid startling your pet and to take extra precautions when it comes to keeping her safe. Some dogs may snap if wakened without warning, so it's important to rouse Bonnie by stamping on the floor near her and letting the vibration wake her up. As for safety, remember that off-leash outings are off-limits for deaf dogs, who cannot hear if a hazard such as a car is near. (Cats who are losing their hearing must be kept indoors for the same reason.)

In many breeds, deafness is a congenital problem, especially for Dalmatians and dogs who are primarily white in color. As many as one in 10 Dalmatians are born deaf, which is why it's so important to buy a pup from a reputable breeder who has a veterinarian test to certify the hearing of the parents and of the puppy you wish to take home. Deaf pups used to be routinely killed, but many people these days are more willing to take on the special challenge a deaf pup presents. These pets can be trained using American Sign Language, and will reward their owners with all the love and affection of a dog with normal hearing.

The best resource on the Internet is the Deaf Dog Education Action Fund Web site (www.deafdogs.org). In addition, I recommend Susan Cope-Becker's "Living With a Deaf Dog: A Book of Advice, Facts and Experiences About Canine Deafness," a self-published book that's available for $15.95 from Dogwise (www.dogwise.com, or 1-800-776-2665).

Q: We recently gave our cockatiel to a friend. Dude is about 5 years old and had never laid an egg in all the time we had him. Several days ago, Dude laid an egg. What should my friend do with it? -- F.W., via e-mail

A: I'm guessing Dude is of a variety of cockatiel where the gender isn't discernible by markings. In any case, it's clear that he is really a she.

As for what to do with the egg: Throw it away. Without a male to provide the other half of the equation, the egg is infertile and will not hatch. If Dude (or should I say Dudette?) keeps laying eggs, have your friend take her to a veterinarian with experience in birds. Chronic egg-laying can be a health problem if not addressed by an experienced veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600