If you want to challenge the assumption that you love your dogs, place them in a car already jam-packed with a fair amount of your belongings, and then drive nearly 3,000 miles in four days.

Now I've traveled plenty with dogs over the years (I can barely stand to leave them behind), but the longest drive I've ever taken was a two-day journey from my home in northern California to some dog shows in Colorado, and that was just with one dog. When the opportunity came up to spend a few months in a beach house in northern Florida, though, I knew I'd be driving, and I knew the dogs would be coming along.

The most important piece of equipment for traveling with a pet is a book that lists pet-friendly lodgings by state and province. The one I took was by AAA; Mobil offers one, too. I also figured I'd be using my laptop every night to check pet-travel Web sites (such as www.petswelcome.com and www.traveldog.com). But after a 12- to 14-hour day of driving, I found I didn't have the energy to turn on the computer or figure out where (or if) I could plug in the modem line. Considering that my fixed travel plan went off the rails the second day, having a book with listings (and a cell phone) proved to be invaluable.

The listings were useful, but the hotels themselves often aren't as pet-friendly as they seem. The majority limit guests to one small pet, not the two big retrievers and the oversized Sheltie who served as my traveling companions.

Still, there's always room for negotiation, even with hotels that insist on the small dogs I don't have. I found that by talking to the manager directly and offering a deposit or even an additional room fee, I was able to find decent lodging fairly easily every night. And I never once had to pay the additional fee or deposit that I offered. Feeling both grateful and responsible, I was sure to leave the room as free of dog hair as possible, and I scrupulously picked up any canine deposits on the grounds.

After lodging, exercising the dogs was the biggest challenge. Rest areas really aren't well-suited for canine travelers -- they're crowded and too close to the highway. Instead, I looked for fields at the edge of restaurant and gas clusters, off the road and far enough from traffic for a quick game of fetch. The retrievers are active dogs with high exercise requirements, and I'm not sure they would have made the journey as well as they did without a daily 30-minute workout.

Leashes are a necessary part of the traveling dog's gear, and I found both the standard 6-foot variety and the adjustable reel-type Flexi to be of equal value. The Flexi is great for those short stops when all a dog needs is a quick potty break, since the device gives a dog up to 30 feet of roaming without ever being off-leash. The one warning with these kinds of leashes is that their handles aren't meant to provide much security -- one good tug and the leash will fly from your hand. If your dog's a bolter, you're better off with a longer version of a traditional leash.

In the end, the journey turned out to be more long than challenging. The dogs were well-behaved, and the final destination made it well worth the effort. I loved my three dogs just as much at the end of the trip as I did at the beginning. And once they saw the beach where they'll be playing for the next few months, I swear they loved me even more.

PETS ON THE WEB

I'm so impressed with the Chameleon Journals Web site (www.chameleonjournals.com) that I will not resort to some silly comment about how it could be better if the background changed color. This extraordinary site simply could not be better in any way. It's one of the best-looking, best-organized and easiest-to-navigate pet pages I've ever run across, and it's packed with helpful and well-written information on these interesting creatures.

There is also great information on care, on finding a veterinarian (not all veterinarians are well-suited to caring for exotic pets), and on health problems that can doom a chameleon. In the Gallery section, you can find some lovely pictures as well as a time-lapse clip of a chameleon being born. And if you need more information, a click or two will sign you up for the chameleon e-mail list, where you can tap the expertise of other enthusiasts.

THE SCOOP

Many parrots, especially cockatoos, cockatiels, macaws and African parrots (both greys and smaller birds such as Senegals) love to have the area around their ear canal scratched.

The avian ear, like all of a bird's anatomy, is streamlined for flight, so you won't find an outer ear on a bird. Instead, look for a swirl of soft, protective feathers in the place where you think the ear should be.

Birds don't hear high- and low-pitched noises as well as we do, but within the range they do hear, they are able to discern more details. The song of a finch would have to be recorded and played at about one-tenth speed for us to be able to hear the richness and detail of sound a bird can.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My Westie, Bonnie, is 12 1/2 years old. She has been losing her hearing for a few months, and now she cannot hear me speak to her. She seems nervous about all of this, but our vet says she will get used to it in a few months.

Is there anything I can read to learn more about how to help me communicate better with her? I am working on hand signals for "come," "stay" and "treats."

I tried to find some info on the Internet and could only find that there is nothing you can do to correct hearing loss. (I knew that.) I want to know how to make my Bonnie feel comfortable and safe. I love her very much and will try hard to do anything to make her content. -- M.A., Rocklin, Calif.

A: Hearing loss is not uncommon in older pets, and your veterinarian is right: Your dog will adjust to the change soon. In fact, I have found over the years that people get more upset over their pet's hearing and vision loss than their pets do.

In my home, 14-year-old Andy is rapidly approaching total deafness, and I swear he finds it convenient -- no more of those pesky requests to do this or that. Like you, I have introduced hand signals for commands, and I've substituted treats and extra petting for the praise he can no longer hear. Since many older pets who are losing their hearing are losing their vision as well (this is true of Andy), I find it's useful to make hand signals as broad and dramatic as possible -- a swoop in of the arm for "come" instead of a little hand wave.

The important things to remember about living with a deaf dog are to avoid startling your pet and to take extra precautions when it comes to keeping her safe. Some dogs may snap if wakened without warning, so it's important to rouse Bonnie by stamping on the floor near her and letting the vibration wake her up. As for safety, remember that off-leash outings are off-limits for deaf dogs, who cannot hear if a hazard such as a car is near. (Cats who are losing their hearing must be kept indoors for the same reason.)

In many breeds, deafness is a congenital problem, especially for Dalmatians and dogs who are primarily white in color. As many as one in 10 Dalmatians are born deaf, which is why it's so important to buy a pup from a reputable breeder who has a veterinarian test to certify the hearing of the parents and of the puppy you wish to take home. Deaf pups used to be routinely killed, but many people these days are more willing to take on the special challenge a deaf pup presents. These pets can be trained using American Sign Language, and will reward their owners with all the love and affection of a dog with normal hearing.

The best resource on the Internet is the Deaf Dog Education Action Fund Web site (www.deafdogs.org). In addition, I recommend Susan Cope-Becker's "Living With a Deaf Dog: A Book of Advice, Facts and Experiences About Canine Deafness," a self-published book that's available for $15.95 from Dogwise (www.dogwise.com, or 1-800-776-2665).

Q: We recently gave our cockatiel to a friend. Dude is about 5 years old and had never laid an egg in all the time we had him. Several days ago, Dude laid an egg. What should my friend do with it? -- F.W., via e-mail

A: I'm guessing Dude is of a variety of cockatiel where the gender isn't discernible by markings. In any case, it's clear that he is really a she.

As for what to do with the egg: Throw it away. Without a male to provide the other half of the equation, the egg is infertile and will not hatch. If Dude (or should I say Dudette?) keeps laying eggs, have your friend take her to a veterinarian with experience in birds. Chronic egg-laying can be a health problem if not addressed by an experienced veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Halloween is just around the corner, which means it has been possible to get bags of candy at any grocery store for weeks now. They sell it early, I figure, with the idea that people will buy a bag or two, eat it themselves, and then buy more for the trick-or-treaters just before the doorbells start ringing on Halloween night.

It's a fine plan, I suppose, and I've nothing against people eating all the candy they can stand, just as long as the goodies stay out of the mouths of pets. While cats are generally pretty picky about what they eat, dogs love most anything even slightly edible, and they like it in the largest amounts possible. With wrappers still attached, in some cases.

Such behavior can mean a pretty sick dog and a trip to the veterinarian.

Chocolate is toxic to dogs, but any unusual food can lead to a canine bellyache. For some dogs, the ailment veterinarians casually refer to as "garbage pail gastritis" can lead to problems that aren't funny at all, such as pancreatitis, which can be life-threatening. That's why it's important not to share any holiday goodies with your pet, and to store any candy where your dog can't get to it.

Bellyaches aren't the only risk to pets on Halloween. Fortunately, the others are just as easy to avoid, using commonsense precautions.

Holiday activities can make cats and dogs nervous, and some will take off if they can. Some will become lost and never found, while others may be hit by cars and injured or killed. Those animals who don't get the urge to run may instead become territorial and present a bite risk. The best solution for all pets is precautionary: Lock them up. Bring outside animals in and keep them in a secure place for the night -- a back bedroom, perhaps, or a crate.

Humane societies say such precautions are especially important for black cats, who may become the target of pranksters who think hurting an animal is amusing. How many real-life cases of such abuse turn up any given year isn't known, but the risk is considered high enough that many shelters will not adopt-out black animals in the days before Halloween, just so there's no chance of the pets falling into the wrong hands.

In truth, it really doesn't matter what color your pet is. Keep him secured inside for the night, and you'll be keeping him safe.

And what about costumes for pets? While it's still best to leave animals in on the holiday itself, there's no reason your pet can't participate in a costume competition before the actual holiday if he has the temperament for it. Be sure any costume you have is comfortable for your pet. It shouldn't obscure vision or constrict around the neck and chest. And if you use any dye or paint, check to make sure it's safe before applying.

We've always had a great deal of fun in my family with Halloween. My big retriever, Benjamin, has even won a prizes for his "reverse Dalmatian" costume, with round, white stickers affixed to his jet-black fur. But come Halloween night, I take no chances. All the animals are safe inside before darkness falls on this spooky holiday.

PETS ON THE WEB

Just in time for Halloween, here's a Web site for those who are interested in a pet that's sure to scare their friends. The American Tarantula Society (www.atshq.org) has put together a site that celebrates these large arachnids (that's spiders to the rest of us) with useful care information as well as articles that are more in-depth and academic in tone.

Most interesting is the gift shop, where you can buy T-shirts, books and even live spiders. Yes, for as little as $6 each, you can have a baby tarantulas show up in your mailbox. (The stuff of some people's nightmares is a dream come true to others, I suppose.) The ATS site also has pictures, and a nifty bulletin board frequented by serious hobbyists and beginners alike.

THE SCOOP

Between the sizzle of summer and the wet of winter comes a season when the seed pods of dried grasses are at their pointy-edged worst. Foxtails, burrs and more -- they're all looking to hitchhike on whatever animal happens their way. Dogs with long or curly hair are the most vulnerable to picking up these nuisances, and the burrs can be very difficult to remove.

A trick used by many a hunter is to apply a little Pam cooking spray to the area to help lubricate the fur so the burr can be eased free with a wide-toothed comb and fingers. It's safe and it works. Be sure to buy the nonflavored variety, though, unless you want your dog to end up smelling like a bowl of buttered popcorn.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I loved your recent column on pet photography. Another good reason to take pictures often is that if a pet is lost, a current photo is a must to create good fliers to show to people in the area. -- A.M., via e-mail

A: That's true. It's always a good idea to have a number of clear color pictures on hand just in case your pet gets lost. Best bet: pictures taken from the side, "show-dog style," with an uncluttered background.

It's a good idea to have a file for each pet, a single place in which to collect pictures, health records, registration papers, licensing information, and any paperwork related to tattoos, microchips or any permanent form of ID. On the inside cover of the file, record the name and phone number of your pet's veterinarian, along with information on after-hours care, such as an emergency veterinary clinic.

Even better, prepare your file in duplicate, and give a copy to a trusted friend or neighbor. In the event that you should become unable to care for your pets -- if you're in an accident, for example -- having that information in someone else's hands will ensure your pets will be well cared for until you can take over again.

Q: We already own a 2-year-old male cat, and we love him so much. But as we are often gone either to work or school during the day, we have been thinking about adding a new kitten to our home to give our cat some company.

My husband says that since we already own a male, we need to get a female because he thinks they will fight less. I want to get another male because every female cat I've ever met has been way too ... um ... not nice. What is your opinion on what the sex of our new kitten should be? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: In general, it's good to mix the sexes, so since you have a male already, a female may be the better choice. That said, I know many people happily caring for same-sex pairs of cats who get along splendidly.

Male and female cats make equally good pets, under one very important condition: altering. No matter the gender, a cat who is what the experts call "whole" or "intact" (in other words, fully equipped to reproduce) is a royal pain to live with.

When females are in season, which happens pretty much whenever they're not pregnant, they're yowly escape artists who attract noisy suitors from miles around. Some people think males are even worse. By the time they're sexually mature, males begin spraying, marking territory with a special pheromone-spiked urine with a smell that's not only foul but also nearly impossible to eradicate. Intact males are also roamers and fighters.

After cats are altered, is one gender a better pet than the other? The answer depends on whom you ask. Some people believe males are a little more outgoing; others suggest that females are smarter. Perhaps the biggest reason some people prefer one gender over another can be summed up by using the word "always" -- they have always had males (or females), have always been happy with their choices, and see no reason to change.

Both male and female cats make good pets, and I can't really steer you one way or another. If you have a personal preference, go with it. If not, go with the kitten or cat that touches your heart, no matter what the gender.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One very positive change in the handling of homeless animals in the last couple of decades has been the growth of the volunteer, grass-roots breed-rescue movement. If you're looking for a purebred and are willing to accept a grown dog instead of a puppy, then choosing a dog from a breed-rescue group is a good deal, and a good deed.

Breed-rescue groups work with a single breed, such as the basset hound, or a couple of related breeds, such as one group I know of specializing in collies and Shetland sheepdogs. In some areas, all-volunteer groups also foster and place mixed breeds.

These groups range from one-person operations placing a few dogs a year, to a few massive nonprofits with their own sheltering facilities, boards of directors, and a well-organized volunteer network all dedicated to stepping in when one of their particular breed needs a hand.

Some breed-rescue groups work by referral only, keeping lists of dogs in private homes and shelters that need homes, and referring potential adopters. Others take in dogs from shelters and private individuals and foster the dogs, a policy that allows them to get a good feel for an individual animal's personality.

While such diversity of policies makes it impossible to describe a "typical" breed-rescue effort, probably the closest description of one would be a group consisting of two to four volunteers who work together to foster and place dogs of their chosen breeds, and are affiliated with a local breed club and loosely tied to a national network of rescuers for that particular breed.

They typically offer dogs who have been vet-checked, vaccinated, and spayed or neutered; the adoption fees they charge cover these veterinary expenses. Transportation and foster-care costs often come out of the volunteers' pockets.

The nature of breed rescue creates both advantages and disadvantages for a potential adopter.

The advantages include getting a vet-checked, altered purebred at a very reasonable price -- commonly, just the cost of the veterinary care. You also get more personal service with a breed-rescue group than with a shelter. A breed-rescue group puts you on a waiting list if they haven't got a dog who suits you, and also works with other rescuers in the region to find what you want. Breed-rescue volunteers have often lived with the dogs they're trying to place, and so they are more keenly aware of how each dog handles a home situation -- such as how she gets along with cats.

Getting a dog through a breed-rescue group has drawbacks, too. Breed-rescue groups rely on volunteers, and volunteers can easily get in over their heads and burn out quickly. These groups start up and stop and regroup and drop out at a surprising rate, which makes tracking down a current breed-rescue contact in your area a little difficult. It can be hard, too, to deal with the same person you worked with if you have problems a year or two down the line, or need to give up the dog.

But don't let these problems dissuade you if you're looking for an adult purebred. Shelters, veterinarians and reputable breeders often can provide you with a referral to a breed-rescue group and, if not, you can start at the national level and work your way down. Many American Kennel Club breed clubs have national rescue coordinators who maintain a current list of local and regional efforts. To find the national coordinator for any breed, contact the AKC at (919) 233-9767, or visit the Web site at www.akc.org.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Delta Society (www.deltasociety.org) is a nonprofit organization that offers information and support to those who use animals as helpers. Service dogs -- animals trained to assist people with disabilities -- are one focus of the group's attention, but so too are all manner of animals who help people with their very presence.

Animals as small as cats and rabbits and as big as horses can change the lives of people, and the Delta Society does what it can to help those animals and the people who work with them. You'll find a lot of information on this site on the usefulness of animals as health-care workers, along with ideas on how to get started as a volunteer.

(Note: A couple weeks ago I transposed letters for the National Iguana Awareness Day Web site. The correct address is www.niad.org.)

THE SCOOP

Canaries hail originally from the Canary Islands, which were not named for their most famous residents, but for the dogs the Romans found there (canis is Latin for "dog"). Wild canaries are green and yellow, but domesticated canaries come in many colors and varieties, thanks to centuries of selective breeding. Canaries can be sleek or plump in body type, and smooth or puffy when it comes to feathers, with colors from yellow to bright orange to greens and browns. If you want a singer, though, make sure your new bird is a male -- female canaries don't sing.

Although still one of the most popular birds in the world, the canary isn't talked about as much for its pet potential as it used to be. And that's a shame, because the bird is perfect for beginners who aren't sure they want as much interaction as some other species require. The canary is happy to hang out in a cage and entertain you with beauty and song.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We lost a cat a few years ago after she crawled into the dryer to sleep on the warm clothes, and my 9-year-old son turned the dryer back on again, not knowing she was inside. Our whole family was devastated, especially my son. We adopted a new cat from the shelter a few months back, and the other day I found her in the dryer, too! I've reminded everyone to check the dryer before turning it on, to remove the clothes when the cycle's done, and to keep the dryer door closed. But kids are kids (I have three of them), and my husband isn't that good about remembering to check for the cat either. I am worried we'll lose this cat, too. Any suggestions? -- H.F., via e-mail

A: For a cat, being killed in a dryer is a very real danger. Not even counting the many, many readers who have told me about their cats who have been killed this way, I personally know of four animals who lost their lives in a dryer.

Cats love warmth, and they find it in some dangerous places. The dryer is a natural draw, but so is the engine of a car that's just been turned off. The cat who falls asleep next to a warm manifold may be gravely injured or killed when the car is started again. (Which is why everyone should thump the hood of the car on cold mornings, to startle any sleeping cats into skeddadling.)

The preventive measures you mention for the dryer are the best ones, but accidents can still happen. One more drastic measure is to convince your cat that the dryer is a horrible place to take a nap. When you see your cat inside, close the dryer's door for a few seconds (make sure the machine is off!) and pound on it with your palms, making as much noise as you can. Then open the door and let your cat make a run for it.

I normally would not recommend any training method that would scare an animal, but the risk of death here is too great to ignore. A couple of scary moments in the dryer is vastly preferable to a horrible death, in my book.

Q: What do you think about wolf hybrids as pets? We're thinking about getting one. -- Y.D., via e-mail

A: I don't recommend wolf-dog hybrids. They're more pet than the majority of people can possibly handle.

The result of a breeding between a wolf and a dog -- most commonly a husky, malamute or German shepherd -- the wolf-dog hybrid is a beautiful, intelligent animal and a potentially dangerous companion that few people can handle or adequately care for. They are often destructive and can rarely be house-trained. Determined and resourceful escape artists, they can be chillingly efficient predators.

The intelligence that fanciers adore, combined with size and strength, causes problems at maturity, when wolf-hybrids do what comes naturally: try for a higher place in their social order, challenging the authority of their human "packmates." Human deaths and injuries are higher with these animals, as compared to domesticated dogs as a whole. And you hear many anecdotal accounts of vicious attacks -- especially on children -- by seemingly docile wolf-dog pets.

Because of these problems, some communities have tried to ban the wolf-dog hybrids, many humane and animal control shelters will not put them up for adoption, and the few groups that do give permanent sanctuary to unwanted hybrids are always at capacity. As a result, many a wolf-dog hybrid has paid for the surge in popularity with its life. All of which means the wolf-dog hybrid is a pet that all but a few highly experienced and dedicated dog lovers should avoid.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600