Halloween is just around the corner, which means it has been possible to get bags of candy at any grocery store for weeks now. They sell it early, I figure, with the idea that people will buy a bag or two, eat it themselves, and then buy more for the trick-or-treaters just before the doorbells start ringing on Halloween night.

It's a fine plan, I suppose, and I've nothing against people eating all the candy they can stand, just as long as the goodies stay out of the mouths of pets. While cats are generally pretty picky about what they eat, dogs love most anything even slightly edible, and they like it in the largest amounts possible. With wrappers still attached, in some cases.

Such behavior can mean a pretty sick dog and a trip to the veterinarian.

Chocolate is toxic to dogs, but any unusual food can lead to a canine bellyache. For some dogs, the ailment veterinarians casually refer to as "garbage pail gastritis" can lead to problems that aren't funny at all, such as pancreatitis, which can be life-threatening. That's why it's important not to share any holiday goodies with your pet, and to store any candy where your dog can't get to it.

Bellyaches aren't the only risk to pets on Halloween. Fortunately, the others are just as easy to avoid, using commonsense precautions.

Holiday activities can make cats and dogs nervous, and some will take off if they can. Some will become lost and never found, while others may be hit by cars and injured or killed. Those animals who don't get the urge to run may instead become territorial and present a bite risk. The best solution for all pets is precautionary: Lock them up. Bring outside animals in and keep them in a secure place for the night -- a back bedroom, perhaps, or a crate.

Humane societies say such precautions are especially important for black cats, who may become the target of pranksters who think hurting an animal is amusing. How many real-life cases of such abuse turn up any given year isn't known, but the risk is considered high enough that many shelters will not adopt-out black animals in the days before Halloween, just so there's no chance of the pets falling into the wrong hands.

In truth, it really doesn't matter what color your pet is. Keep him secured inside for the night, and you'll be keeping him safe.

And what about costumes for pets? While it's still best to leave animals in on the holiday itself, there's no reason your pet can't participate in a costume competition before the actual holiday if he has the temperament for it. Be sure any costume you have is comfortable for your pet. It shouldn't obscure vision or constrict around the neck and chest. And if you use any dye or paint, check to make sure it's safe before applying.

We've always had a great deal of fun in my family with Halloween. My big retriever, Benjamin, has even won a prizes for his "reverse Dalmatian" costume, with round, white stickers affixed to his jet-black fur. But come Halloween night, I take no chances. All the animals are safe inside before darkness falls on this spooky holiday.

PETS ON THE WEB

Just in time for Halloween, here's a Web site for those who are interested in a pet that's sure to scare their friends. The American Tarantula Society (www.atshq.org) has put together a site that celebrates these large arachnids (that's spiders to the rest of us) with useful care information as well as articles that are more in-depth and academic in tone.

Most interesting is the gift shop, where you can buy T-shirts, books and even live spiders. Yes, for as little as $6 each, you can have a baby tarantulas show up in your mailbox. (The stuff of some people's nightmares is a dream come true to others, I suppose.) The ATS site also has pictures, and a nifty bulletin board frequented by serious hobbyists and beginners alike.

THE SCOOP

Between the sizzle of summer and the wet of winter comes a season when the seed pods of dried grasses are at their pointy-edged worst. Foxtails, burrs and more -- they're all looking to hitchhike on whatever animal happens their way. Dogs with long or curly hair are the most vulnerable to picking up these nuisances, and the burrs can be very difficult to remove.

A trick used by many a hunter is to apply a little Pam cooking spray to the area to help lubricate the fur so the burr can be eased free with a wide-toothed comb and fingers. It's safe and it works. Be sure to buy the nonflavored variety, though, unless you want your dog to end up smelling like a bowl of buttered popcorn.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I loved your recent column on pet photography. Another good reason to take pictures often is that if a pet is lost, a current photo is a must to create good fliers to show to people in the area. -- A.M., via e-mail

A: That's true. It's always a good idea to have a number of clear color pictures on hand just in case your pet gets lost. Best bet: pictures taken from the side, "show-dog style," with an uncluttered background.

It's a good idea to have a file for each pet, a single place in which to collect pictures, health records, registration papers, licensing information, and any paperwork related to tattoos, microchips or any permanent form of ID. On the inside cover of the file, record the name and phone number of your pet's veterinarian, along with information on after-hours care, such as an emergency veterinary clinic.

Even better, prepare your file in duplicate, and give a copy to a trusted friend or neighbor. In the event that you should become unable to care for your pets -- if you're in an accident, for example -- having that information in someone else's hands will ensure your pets will be well cared for until you can take over again.

Q: We already own a 2-year-old male cat, and we love him so much. But as we are often gone either to work or school during the day, we have been thinking about adding a new kitten to our home to give our cat some company.

My husband says that since we already own a male, we need to get a female because he thinks they will fight less. I want to get another male because every female cat I've ever met has been way too ... um ... not nice. What is your opinion on what the sex of our new kitten should be? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: In general, it's good to mix the sexes, so since you have a male already, a female may be the better choice. That said, I know many people happily caring for same-sex pairs of cats who get along splendidly.

Male and female cats make equally good pets, under one very important condition: altering. No matter the gender, a cat who is what the experts call "whole" or "intact" (in other words, fully equipped to reproduce) is a royal pain to live with.

When females are in season, which happens pretty much whenever they're not pregnant, they're yowly escape artists who attract noisy suitors from miles around. Some people think males are even worse. By the time they're sexually mature, males begin spraying, marking territory with a special pheromone-spiked urine with a smell that's not only foul but also nearly impossible to eradicate. Intact males are also roamers and fighters.

After cats are altered, is one gender a better pet than the other? The answer depends on whom you ask. Some people believe males are a little more outgoing; others suggest that females are smarter. Perhaps the biggest reason some people prefer one gender over another can be summed up by using the word "always" -- they have always had males (or females), have always been happy with their choices, and see no reason to change.

Both male and female cats make good pets, and I can't really steer you one way or another. If you have a personal preference, go with it. If not, go with the kitten or cat that touches your heart, no matter what the gender.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One very positive change in the handling of homeless animals in the last couple of decades has been the growth of the volunteer, grass-roots breed-rescue movement. If you're looking for a purebred and are willing to accept a grown dog instead of a puppy, then choosing a dog from a breed-rescue group is a good deal, and a good deed.

Breed-rescue groups work with a single breed, such as the basset hound, or a couple of related breeds, such as one group I know of specializing in collies and Shetland sheepdogs. In some areas, all-volunteer groups also foster and place mixed breeds.

These groups range from one-person operations placing a few dogs a year, to a few massive nonprofits with their own sheltering facilities, boards of directors, and a well-organized volunteer network all dedicated to stepping in when one of their particular breed needs a hand.

Some breed-rescue groups work by referral only, keeping lists of dogs in private homes and shelters that need homes, and referring potential adopters. Others take in dogs from shelters and private individuals and foster the dogs, a policy that allows them to get a good feel for an individual animal's personality.

While such diversity of policies makes it impossible to describe a "typical" breed-rescue effort, probably the closest description of one would be a group consisting of two to four volunteers who work together to foster and place dogs of their chosen breeds, and are affiliated with a local breed club and loosely tied to a national network of rescuers for that particular breed.

They typically offer dogs who have been vet-checked, vaccinated, and spayed or neutered; the adoption fees they charge cover these veterinary expenses. Transportation and foster-care costs often come out of the volunteers' pockets.

The nature of breed rescue creates both advantages and disadvantages for a potential adopter.

The advantages include getting a vet-checked, altered purebred at a very reasonable price -- commonly, just the cost of the veterinary care. You also get more personal service with a breed-rescue group than with a shelter. A breed-rescue group puts you on a waiting list if they haven't got a dog who suits you, and also works with other rescuers in the region to find what you want. Breed-rescue volunteers have often lived with the dogs they're trying to place, and so they are more keenly aware of how each dog handles a home situation -- such as how she gets along with cats.

Getting a dog through a breed-rescue group has drawbacks, too. Breed-rescue groups rely on volunteers, and volunteers can easily get in over their heads and burn out quickly. These groups start up and stop and regroup and drop out at a surprising rate, which makes tracking down a current breed-rescue contact in your area a little difficult. It can be hard, too, to deal with the same person you worked with if you have problems a year or two down the line, or need to give up the dog.

But don't let these problems dissuade you if you're looking for an adult purebred. Shelters, veterinarians and reputable breeders often can provide you with a referral to a breed-rescue group and, if not, you can start at the national level and work your way down. Many American Kennel Club breed clubs have national rescue coordinators who maintain a current list of local and regional efforts. To find the national coordinator for any breed, contact the AKC at (919) 233-9767, or visit the Web site at www.akc.org.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Delta Society (www.deltasociety.org) is a nonprofit organization that offers information and support to those who use animals as helpers. Service dogs -- animals trained to assist people with disabilities -- are one focus of the group's attention, but so too are all manner of animals who help people with their very presence.

Animals as small as cats and rabbits and as big as horses can change the lives of people, and the Delta Society does what it can to help those animals and the people who work with them. You'll find a lot of information on this site on the usefulness of animals as health-care workers, along with ideas on how to get started as a volunteer.

(Note: A couple weeks ago I transposed letters for the National Iguana Awareness Day Web site. The correct address is www.niad.org.)

THE SCOOP

Canaries hail originally from the Canary Islands, which were not named for their most famous residents, but for the dogs the Romans found there (canis is Latin for "dog"). Wild canaries are green and yellow, but domesticated canaries come in many colors and varieties, thanks to centuries of selective breeding. Canaries can be sleek or plump in body type, and smooth or puffy when it comes to feathers, with colors from yellow to bright orange to greens and browns. If you want a singer, though, make sure your new bird is a male -- female canaries don't sing.

Although still one of the most popular birds in the world, the canary isn't talked about as much for its pet potential as it used to be. And that's a shame, because the bird is perfect for beginners who aren't sure they want as much interaction as some other species require. The canary is happy to hang out in a cage and entertain you with beauty and song.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We lost a cat a few years ago after she crawled into the dryer to sleep on the warm clothes, and my 9-year-old son turned the dryer back on again, not knowing she was inside. Our whole family was devastated, especially my son. We adopted a new cat from the shelter a few months back, and the other day I found her in the dryer, too! I've reminded everyone to check the dryer before turning it on, to remove the clothes when the cycle's done, and to keep the dryer door closed. But kids are kids (I have three of them), and my husband isn't that good about remembering to check for the cat either. I am worried we'll lose this cat, too. Any suggestions? -- H.F., via e-mail

A: For a cat, being killed in a dryer is a very real danger. Not even counting the many, many readers who have told me about their cats who have been killed this way, I personally know of four animals who lost their lives in a dryer.

Cats love warmth, and they find it in some dangerous places. The dryer is a natural draw, but so is the engine of a car that's just been turned off. The cat who falls asleep next to a warm manifold may be gravely injured or killed when the car is started again. (Which is why everyone should thump the hood of the car on cold mornings, to startle any sleeping cats into skeddadling.)

The preventive measures you mention for the dryer are the best ones, but accidents can still happen. One more drastic measure is to convince your cat that the dryer is a horrible place to take a nap. When you see your cat inside, close the dryer's door for a few seconds (make sure the machine is off!) and pound on it with your palms, making as much noise as you can. Then open the door and let your cat make a run for it.

I normally would not recommend any training method that would scare an animal, but the risk of death here is too great to ignore. A couple of scary moments in the dryer is vastly preferable to a horrible death, in my book.

Q: What do you think about wolf hybrids as pets? We're thinking about getting one. -- Y.D., via e-mail

A: I don't recommend wolf-dog hybrids. They're more pet than the majority of people can possibly handle.

The result of a breeding between a wolf and a dog -- most commonly a husky, malamute or German shepherd -- the wolf-dog hybrid is a beautiful, intelligent animal and a potentially dangerous companion that few people can handle or adequately care for. They are often destructive and can rarely be house-trained. Determined and resourceful escape artists, they can be chillingly efficient predators.

The intelligence that fanciers adore, combined with size and strength, causes problems at maturity, when wolf-hybrids do what comes naturally: try for a higher place in their social order, challenging the authority of their human "packmates." Human deaths and injuries are higher with these animals, as compared to domesticated dogs as a whole. And you hear many anecdotal accounts of vicious attacks -- especially on children -- by seemingly docile wolf-dog pets.

Because of these problems, some communities have tried to ban the wolf-dog hybrids, many humane and animal control shelters will not put them up for adoption, and the few groups that do give permanent sanctuary to unwanted hybrids are always at capacity. As a result, many a wolf-dog hybrid has paid for the surge in popularity with its life. All of which means the wolf-dog hybrid is a pet that all but a few highly experienced and dedicated dog lovers should avoid.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Here's one of those columns you can clip and give to a neighbor, or maybe you'll find it handed to you. It seems as though everyone's eager to help the neighbor with the barking dog, and if you have such an animal, you really need to do something about it.

Why do dogs bark? Experts say it's to express a variety of emotions: anxiety, boredom, territoriality, aggression, playfulness and hunger. Certain conditions in a dog's environment can trigger these emotions -- and barking fits -- more frequently.

What can be done? The first step is to remove or reduce barking triggers. Figure out the kind of barking your dog indulges in. Is he a fence-runner, trading insults with the dog on the other side of the back fence? Consider reworking your yard to deny him access to that activity. In my house, Andy got in the habit when he was younger of jumping up on a sofa to look out the front window and bark. After the sofa was moved, he couldn't see outside anymore and the barking settled down.

Visual cues are the most obvious to us, but don't forget to address sound cues, too. Many dogs fire up when they hear car doors slam, other dogs bark or the mail carrier's steps on the walk. You can muffle these sounds by leaving your pet inside with a radio playing while you're gone, and he'll be more likely to sleep through minor commotions.

Exercise, both of the body and of the mind, works wonders for all dogs, especially those that bark from boredom or to release excess energy. Bring your dog out of the back yard and into your life; train him and provide regular aerobic exercise, and he'll be much calmer, quieter and happier.

What about the barking that continues? Work with a trainer or behaviorist to help you teach your pet to stop barking on command. And training is the key: Screaming, "Shut up, you mangy mutt!" has no effect except, perhaps, to make you feel better.

A dog trained to stop barking isn't a dog trained not to start barking, however, and what happens when there's no one home to monitor the peace? In the most serious of cases -- often prompted by threats of legal action or dead dogs -- many people turn to the most controversial of fixes: electronic collars or debarking.

Shock collars work with many behavior problems, including barking, but they should be used only by experienced trainers or behaviorists. Understanding which model to choose and how to use it properly is beyond the abilities of the average pet owner -- and using a shock collar improperly is most certainly cruel.

Relatively new are electronic collars that emit a burst of high-pitched sound or a spray of citronella scent when a dog barks. These are both better options for pet-owners than a shock collar. In particular, I have found the citronella collars to be very effective.

Debarking is the surgical altering of the vocal cords, changing them so that the dog will still be able to bark, but at a greatly reduced volume. The "debarked" dog will end up with a bark that sounds like a harsh whisper, although the final outcome, in terms of tone and volume, will vary from dog to dog.

Debarking is very controversial. But there is no indication that a debarked dog misses the ability to bark loudly. Indeed, a debarked dog in many cases may be happier than before the surgery, since he will still be able to bark, but without risking the ire of his owner or the hatred of the neighborhood.

Surgery is a last-ditch option, not a quick-fix substitute for the proper care and training of a pet. When you're faced with the legal or illegal actions of irate neighbors -- remember that it's certainly not unheard of for frustrated neighbors to kill a chronic barker -- debarking should be discussed with your veterinarian.

With some effort on your part to train your pet and change his environment, however, you'll never need such drastic options. And everyone will be happier as a result.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Maine Coon is one of the most popular breeds of pedigreed cats, a large and well-furred beauty with an easygoing disposition. The cat has mystery and history: Some believe the animal developed from the mating of cats and raccoons (not true), while others note with pride that a Maine Coon won the first cat show held in the United States (true).

To find out more about this lovely breed, check out the Cat Fanciers' Association's page of information

www.cfainc.org/breeds/profiles/maine.html). Like all the information on the CFA site, the Maine Coon page is well-organized and well-researched, with information on the history of the breed, special health concerns and tips on finding a reputable breeder.

THE SCOOP

In a recent column I mentioned some tips on teaching a cat to use a cat door. My friend Christie Keith, director of the Veterinary Information Network's Pet Care Forum (www.vin.com/petcare), dropped me a note with some additional ideas.

"You can replace the stiff rubber or plastic flaps most cat doors come with, with fabric, either permanently or temporarily," she writes. "I favor heavy terry cloth,

canvas or denim. Cats much prefer the softer 'curtain' effect. These heavy fabrics are almost as effective as rubber or plastic at blocking out the elements, and they can be taken off and cleaned or replaced when dirty or worn."

Thanks, Christie!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I agree that dogs (and other pets) should be restrained in any moving vehicle. The point of contention here is your assertion that they should be crated. While I agree that this is the appropriate containment for pets that fly, pets that ride in a car are put in a great deal of danger when crated.

When a car comes to a complete and sudden stop (as in a head-on collision with just about anything solid), the objects in the car keep traveling forward until they crash into something. This is why airbags and seat belts are effective. They stop the occupants as the car stops, with a little give. A dog in a crate will slam into the front of the crate at a high rate of speed. The results of this will be the same as for an uncrated pet. The only benefit of the crate is to protect the people in the car from a fast-moving pet who can strike them from behind and injure them.

Fence-type barriers in vehicles act in the same way that the crate does: They protect the human occupants, but still subject the pet to a hard surface when the car stops suddenly. Not only that, but often the cargo area of an SUV or van is designed as a crumple zone, meaning that that section of the car will fold like an accordion in an accident to dissipate the energy of the moving bodies that are colliding. This is why there are no seats in these areas (if there are seats, then there has been additional structural support installed in this area). This puts pets in cargo areas in danger of being crushed when their vehicle is struck from behind.

Allowing a pet to ride in the front passenger-side seat also puts the pet in danger, especially in cars with dual airbags. Recall the number of small adults and children who have been killed in accidents as minor as fender benders because of the extreme force of passenger-side airbags.

While I give you kudos for at least seat-belting Andy, it would be much safer for him in a rear seat. Seat belts are the only really effective way to keep pets and passengers safe from accident and from each other in a car. However, you should stress to your readers that not all pet seat belts are created equal. There may not have been any crash-test puppies, but there are groups actively testing pet-restraint systems in cars. -- Phil LaFond, via e-mail

A: Great information, and lots to think about. Believe me, I have thought about 35-pound Andy and that passenger-side airbag many times, and shuddered. I guess I'll be moving him and his seat belt into the middle seat of the van, like it or not.

I still believe, however, that any restraint is better than no restraint at all, minimizing the possibility that an out-of-control dog will distract the driver and cause an accident.

It's interesting to note that pet safety in cars is an issue that's sure to grow. One carmaker, Saab, is the first to give it any priority at all, but I doubt it will be the last. The manufacturer's 9-5 station wagon offers a package of optional pet accessories designed for safety and practicality.

Q: I'm giving my cat hairball medication every day, and she's still coughing them up. Any ideas? -– G. R., via e-mail

A: Oil-based hairball remedies can tie up the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, which is why you shouldn't be giving them on a regular basis -– twice a week, tops, is plenty. You can minimize hairballs by combing and brushing your cat regularly to remove loose fur, and also by adding a teaspoon or so of canned pumpkin to meals to increase the amount of fiber your cat eats.

A certain amount of hairballs are inevitable, however, so you need to just accept that -– and watch where you put your bare feet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600