Here's one of those columns you can clip and give to a neighbor, or maybe you'll find it handed to you. It seems as though everyone's eager to help the neighbor with the barking dog, and if you have such an animal, you really need to do something about it.

Why do dogs bark? Experts say it's to express a variety of emotions: anxiety, boredom, territoriality, aggression, playfulness and hunger. Certain conditions in a dog's environment can trigger these emotions -- and barking fits -- more frequently.

What can be done? The first step is to remove or reduce barking triggers. Figure out the kind of barking your dog indulges in. Is he a fence-runner, trading insults with the dog on the other side of the back fence? Consider reworking your yard to deny him access to that activity. In my house, Andy got in the habit when he was younger of jumping up on a sofa to look out the front window and bark. After the sofa was moved, he couldn't see outside anymore and the barking settled down.

Visual cues are the most obvious to us, but don't forget to address sound cues, too. Many dogs fire up when they hear car doors slam, other dogs bark or the mail carrier's steps on the walk. You can muffle these sounds by leaving your pet inside with a radio playing while you're gone, and he'll be more likely to sleep through minor commotions.

Exercise, both of the body and of the mind, works wonders for all dogs, especially those that bark from boredom or to release excess energy. Bring your dog out of the back yard and into your life; train him and provide regular aerobic exercise, and he'll be much calmer, quieter and happier.

What about the barking that continues? Work with a trainer or behaviorist to help you teach your pet to stop barking on command. And training is the key: Screaming, "Shut up, you mangy mutt!" has no effect except, perhaps, to make you feel better.

A dog trained to stop barking isn't a dog trained not to start barking, however, and what happens when there's no one home to monitor the peace? In the most serious of cases -- often prompted by threats of legal action or dead dogs -- many people turn to the most controversial of fixes: electronic collars or debarking.

Shock collars work with many behavior problems, including barking, but they should be used only by experienced trainers or behaviorists. Understanding which model to choose and how to use it properly is beyond the abilities of the average pet owner -- and using a shock collar improperly is most certainly cruel.

Relatively new are electronic collars that emit a burst of high-pitched sound or a spray of citronella scent when a dog barks. These are both better options for pet-owners than a shock collar. In particular, I have found the citronella collars to be very effective.

Debarking is the surgical altering of the vocal cords, changing them so that the dog will still be able to bark, but at a greatly reduced volume. The "debarked" dog will end up with a bark that sounds like a harsh whisper, although the final outcome, in terms of tone and volume, will vary from dog to dog.

Debarking is very controversial. But there is no indication that a debarked dog misses the ability to bark loudly. Indeed, a debarked dog in many cases may be happier than before the surgery, since he will still be able to bark, but without risking the ire of his owner or the hatred of the neighborhood.

Surgery is a last-ditch option, not a quick-fix substitute for the proper care and training of a pet. When you're faced with the legal or illegal actions of irate neighbors -- remember that it's certainly not unheard of for frustrated neighbors to kill a chronic barker -- debarking should be discussed with your veterinarian.

With some effort on your part to train your pet and change his environment, however, you'll never need such drastic options. And everyone will be happier as a result.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Maine Coon is one of the most popular breeds of pedigreed cats, a large and well-furred beauty with an easygoing disposition. The cat has mystery and history: Some believe the animal developed from the mating of cats and raccoons (not true), while others note with pride that a Maine Coon won the first cat show held in the United States (true).

To find out more about this lovely breed, check out the Cat Fanciers' Association's page of information

www.cfainc.org/breeds/profiles/maine.html). Like all the information on the CFA site, the Maine Coon page is well-organized and well-researched, with information on the history of the breed, special health concerns and tips on finding a reputable breeder.

THE SCOOP

In a recent column I mentioned some tips on teaching a cat to use a cat door. My friend Christie Keith, director of the Veterinary Information Network's Pet Care Forum (www.vin.com/petcare), dropped me a note with some additional ideas.

"You can replace the stiff rubber or plastic flaps most cat doors come with, with fabric, either permanently or temporarily," she writes. "I favor heavy terry cloth,

canvas or denim. Cats much prefer the softer 'curtain' effect. These heavy fabrics are almost as effective as rubber or plastic at blocking out the elements, and they can be taken off and cleaned or replaced when dirty or worn."

Thanks, Christie!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I agree that dogs (and other pets) should be restrained in any moving vehicle. The point of contention here is your assertion that they should be crated. While I agree that this is the appropriate containment for pets that fly, pets that ride in a car are put in a great deal of danger when crated.

When a car comes to a complete and sudden stop (as in a head-on collision with just about anything solid), the objects in the car keep traveling forward until they crash into something. This is why airbags and seat belts are effective. They stop the occupants as the car stops, with a little give. A dog in a crate will slam into the front of the crate at a high rate of speed. The results of this will be the same as for an uncrated pet. The only benefit of the crate is to protect the people in the car from a fast-moving pet who can strike them from behind and injure them.

Fence-type barriers in vehicles act in the same way that the crate does: They protect the human occupants, but still subject the pet to a hard surface when the car stops suddenly. Not only that, but often the cargo area of an SUV or van is designed as a crumple zone, meaning that that section of the car will fold like an accordion in an accident to dissipate the energy of the moving bodies that are colliding. This is why there are no seats in these areas (if there are seats, then there has been additional structural support installed in this area). This puts pets in cargo areas in danger of being crushed when their vehicle is struck from behind.

Allowing a pet to ride in the front passenger-side seat also puts the pet in danger, especially in cars with dual airbags. Recall the number of small adults and children who have been killed in accidents as minor as fender benders because of the extreme force of passenger-side airbags.

While I give you kudos for at least seat-belting Andy, it would be much safer for him in a rear seat. Seat belts are the only really effective way to keep pets and passengers safe from accident and from each other in a car. However, you should stress to your readers that not all pet seat belts are created equal. There may not have been any crash-test puppies, but there are groups actively testing pet-restraint systems in cars. -- Phil LaFond, via e-mail

A: Great information, and lots to think about. Believe me, I have thought about 35-pound Andy and that passenger-side airbag many times, and shuddered. I guess I'll be moving him and his seat belt into the middle seat of the van, like it or not.

I still believe, however, that any restraint is better than no restraint at all, minimizing the possibility that an out-of-control dog will distract the driver and cause an accident.

It's interesting to note that pet safety in cars is an issue that's sure to grow. One carmaker, Saab, is the first to give it any priority at all, but I doubt it will be the last. The manufacturer's 9-5 station wagon offers a package of optional pet accessories designed for safety and practicality.

Q: I'm giving my cat hairball medication every day, and she's still coughing them up. Any ideas? -– G. R., via e-mail

A: Oil-based hairball remedies can tie up the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, which is why you shouldn't be giving them on a regular basis -– twice a week, tops, is plenty. You can minimize hairballs by combing and brushing your cat regularly to remove loose fur, and also by adding a teaspoon or so of canned pumpkin to meals to increase the amount of fiber your cat eats.

A certain amount of hairballs are inevitable, however, so you need to just accept that -– and watch where you put your bare feet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you're going to have a healthy pet, you need the help of a veterinarian. And although many people believe that these health-care professionals are pretty much interchangeable, distinguished only by convenience and price, I've always believed that you're doing your pet a disservice if you don't put a little effort into choosing the right veterinarian and building a relationship with that person.

To work effectively with your veterinarian, you need to develop a relationship over time, so your vet can build a history and become familiar with you and your pet. Group practices are great -- two, three, four (or more) heads are often better than one when your pet is ill and the diagnosis is not immediately obvious. Within a group practice, though, working with one veterinarian as your pet's primary caregiver is best.

Your veterinarian should be technically proficient, current on the latest treatments, and willing to seek out more information on your pet's behalf or work with a veterinary specialist. A good vet should be articulate, be able to explain what's going on with your pet in a way you can understand, and be willing to answer your questions so you can make a responsible decision on your pet's behalf. Most important, you must be able to trust your veterinarian. After all, knowing what goes on in a veterinarian's office after you leave your pet behind is impossible.

Before you choose a veterinarian, ask friends, co-workers and neighbors for recommendations. Over the years, animal lovers can tell which veterinarians are knowledgeable, compassionate and hard-working. Those veterinarians are always talked up by satisfied clients.

Other factors may help you narrow down your list of possibilities:

-- Is the clinic or hospital conveniently located, with hours you can live with? If you have a 9-to-5 job, a veterinarian with a 9-to-5 clinic doesn't do your pet much good. Many veterinarians are open late on at least one weeknight and for at least a half-day on Saturday, or they are willing to make other arrangements.

-- Does the veterinarian consult with veterinary college staff, or with independent or in-house specialists? Does he or she subscribe to an online veterinary service? A willingness to discuss tough cases with colleagues is the sign of a veterinarian who's putting in effort on your pet's behalf. Online services are available the world over to assist veterinarians in getting to the bottom of a tough case.

-- What kind of emergency care is available, if any? Although emergency veterinary clinics are prepared for any catastrophe, they are not familiar with your pet. If your veterinarian's practice does not offer 24-hour care, does it work with one that does?

-- Do you feel a rapport with this person? Are you comfortable asking questions? Discussing fees? The final call on whether a particular veterinarian is right for you comes down to intangibles. If you don't feel comfortable, you're less likely to ask your veterinarian questions, and the lack of productive communication hurts your pet in the long run.

I do realize that, as a pet columnist, my relationships with veterinarians may be closer than most people's. But I also know my pets get superior care because I like, respect and trust my veterinarian. It took time to find the right veterinarian, but it was well worth it to me and to my pets.

PETS ON THE WEB

People who think the Internet is more the world's best time-waster than an information revolution will find much to back up their claims at the various "dancing animals" Web sites.

The best known among these is likely the dancing hampsters (www.hampsterdance2.com, then click on The Original HamsterDance), which were featured in a national advertising campaign.

But hamsters aren't the only things that dance on the Web. So do cats, dogs, turtles, penguins and even armadillos. You can find the menagerie of dancing critters on Nutty Sites.com (www.nuttysites.com), each more annoying or entertaining than the last, depending on your point of view.

Warning: If you value your job, don't visit any of these sites at work. It's going to be hard to convince your boss of your commitment if you're busted with HamsterDance on your monitor.

THE SCOOP

If you purchase a purebred puppy or kitten, make sure you get all the paperwork at the time you take your new family member home. I cannot tell you how many times I've had people ask for advice on getting the registration papers after a breeder has disappeared, or has even decided not to part with the papers unless an additional fee is paid.

Mind you, any breeder who'd do either is likely not someone you should have been buying a pup or kitten from in the first place. But that won't help you much when you've already fallen in love with your new pet, will it?

You should at least get a form that will allow you to apply for registration from a national organization such as the American Kennel Club or the Cat Fanciers' Association. You should also get a pedigree (a chart of the animal's antecedents), and health records.

If you don't get the paperwork, the breed registries will try to help with registration matters if you contact them. But in most cases they can't do much, since people rarely have enough information on the breeder or the animal's parents to get the matter cleared up.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have children who are 2, 3 and 8, and a large, beautiful back yard. We recently rescued a 6-month-old German shepherd (a breed my husband adores) from the shelter. Now the children are terrified to go into the back yard full of their playthings. We got a dog run, and put him there when they want to play, but he barks and jumps continuously and scares them. Our lovely back yard has turned into a yellow-spotted, dog-pooped mess. A few trainers I've called say he's simply exhibiting "puppy" behavior.

Did we get the wrong breed for a family dog? Will he grow out of this? A penned-up and frenzied dog, terrified children and a messed-up yard were not what I had in mind when we got him. -- M.P., via e-mail

A: He's the wrong breed for your family, that's for sure. And the fact that you mentioned your yard three times in a fairly short letter suggests to me that perhaps there isn't a dog out there who'll be suitable. Did you think the dog was going to use a toilet?

German shepherds are large, active and highly intelligent. They're not going to be happy penned in a small dog run or, for that matter, spending their lives as outdoor dogs. They need to part of the inner circle (all dogs do), and they need a great deal of exercise of both their minds and their bodies, probably more than most dogs.

Yes, this dog is acting like a puppy, but the problems you describe require training to resolve. Since your response to the problem of his bounciness around the children was to coop him up, I'm guessing neither you nor your husband has the time or the desire to take this dog to obedience classes and put in the hours it takes to get the dog you were dreaming of.

Take this pup back to the shelter, where he can have another chance at getting a home that will suit him better. Your family is a horrid match for this young dog, and it's not going to get any better.

I'd advise against considering a dog again until the children are older, and then I suggest you consider an adult dog of a smaller, more laid-back breed or mix. And then make that dog part of your family, by showing him the rules of your home and making him welcome within it.

Remember, though, that yellow spots and piles go with the territory, although you can minimize the effect of a dog on your yard by allowing him to relieve himself in only one part of the yard, flushing the urine spots with water and keeping the yard scrupulously picked up.

Q: I have an albino cockatiel. How can I tell if the bird is a boy or a girl? -- A.R., via e-mail

A: Although gender can be determined by markings in many varieties of cockatiels, that's not true in the case of the white-face lutinos (commonly known as albinos). That's because there are no markings to provide the clues.

You'll need the help of an avian veterinarian to solve this mystery. He'll draw a blood sample, and the laboratory will get the answer you want from the bird's DNA.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

National Iguana Awareness Day has come and gone without so much as a peep from me. Really, I should be flogged. I will say in my own defense that I'm horrible with all dates, and even Christmas seems to creep up on me when I'm not looking.

But the idea behind a special day of education for people who have or want these popular pets is a good one that should not be allowed to pass without comment. Especially because without the education of their keepers, iguanas just don't have a chance to grow up healthy. So let me do my part to help.

The iguana is a cheap pet to acquire -- usually less than $25 for a hatchling, which makes them a popular pet for children. The problem is they're not exactly easy keepers, and too many pet stores either don't know or don't care enough to properly educate buyers about the care of these pets. The cost of a proper setup alone can set you back a couple of hundred bucks.

People don't want to hear that, though, and retailers don't want to kill the sale. The result too often is improper food and housing, which ends up being a death sentence for the pets.

If you -- or your child -- have an iguana on your wish list, make sure you know what to do to keep your new pet healthy. A good setup is crucial, and so is a proper diet. Calcium requirements are probably the most often ignored; the long-term lack of calcium can leave a pet with a rubber jaw he can't use to feed himself.

Here are some tips to keep an iguana in good shape.

DIET

Iguanas should be fed plant matter only, a mixture of vegetation that's high in calcium but low in phosphorus and fat. Choices include mustard, collard and turnip greens, as well as yams, carrots, alfalfa sprouts, alfalfa hay and squash.

Chop the vegetables into a size that can be easily handled by the pet, and mix and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Offer small amounts twice a day and sprinkle the food with a calcium supplement, available at a pet store. This diet can be supplemented by commercial foods.

Water should be available for both bathing and drinking. A ceramic dish in the enclosure is a must; spraying mist on the animal is also very pleasing to him.

HOUSING

The bigger the better. Your little green baby is going to grow, after all. Cages or aquariums must be kept scrupulously clean and dry to prevent bacterial or fungal diseases. The iguana's cage should be lined with newspapers, or better yet, clean newsprint. (Roll ends of clean newsprint are available from many newspapers.) Other possibilities include indoor-outdoor carpeting, Astroturf or even paper towel squares. Avoid sawdust, litter, wood shavings or gravel. Silk artificial plants can improve the appearance of the enclosure and are easy to keep clean. Provide your pet with a place to hide, such as a cardboard box, and some branches for climbing.

Uneaten food and soiled areas must be promptly removed. For disinfecting, avoid pine oil cleaners and use a solution of 1 part bleach to 30 parts water. Remember that proper sanitation and handling is essential for your protection as well as your pet's. Salmonella is a risk when proper hygiene procedures aren't followed.

HEAT AND LIGHT

Forget hot rocks -- too many pets have been burned with them. Instead, use a heating pad or under-cage strip designed for use with reptiles, or a ceramic basking lamp, which emits heat but no light.

Captive reptiles need ultraviolet B light from an artificial source. Pet stores sell lightbulbs that provide the proper light for iguanas. It's best to approximate natural conditions by supplying 10 to 12 hours of light per day.

PETS ON THE WEB

National Iguana Awareness Day was Sept. 9, but the Web site to go with it (www.naid.org) is still very much accessible. It's a fabulous site, with pages of information and links, and no-holds-barred trashing of the bad information that gets a lot of novice iguana keepers in trouble. I especially liked the side-by-side comparisons of what buyers are often told they need in the way of food and housing vs. what their pets really need for optimal health and happiness. There's a good discussion of diets, too. Another great site is "Iguana For Dummies" author Melissa Kaplan's Giant Green Iguana Information collection (www.sonic.net/melissk/ig_care.html).

THE SCOOP

Some pet birds, such as finches and canaries, can make use of an occasional small amount of grit -- and most budgies, cockatiels and other parrots don't need grit at all.

Folks used to believe that grit helps in the grinding organ of the gizzard, assisting in the breakdown of foods. But birds do fine without grit -- and grit has been shown to remove vitamins A, K and B2 from the digestive system. A tiny -- as in a couple of grains of grit every couple of months -- is fine for finches and canaries, keeping in mind that no pet bird needs to have access to all the grit it wants. For parrots large and small, skip grit entirely. Overconsumption of the stuff has led to many life-threatening problems -- grit impaction -- in pet parrots, especially young bird and smaller species, such as budgies or cockatiels.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our Lab puppy, Maggie, does not want to be on leash. She bucks like a bronco every time we put it on her. Any suggestions? -- C.R., via e-mail

A. Your puppy can start wearing a buckled collar from the time you bring him home. I like lightweight nylon collars, which are inexpensive to replace when a puppy grows. They come in oodles of fun colors. Quick-snap collars are fine, too, and easy to adjust to larger sizes. Check the collar frequently to ensure a good fit. (And don't forget to attach a small ID tag!)

By the time your pup's 10 weeks old, you can introduce a leash, for a few minutes at a time. Instead of using the leash to get the puppy to go your way, go his for a while, and then bend down and call him to you, sweetly. When he turns and heads in your direction, praise him and then get up and keep going, patting your leg and jollying him along with praise and treats. Introduce a command such as "Walk on" or "Let's go" for him to start associating with the idea of heading in your direction. A few minutes is enough. Try again later in the day, and maybe change direction once, saying "Let's go" and praising when the puppy follows.

A puppy's first leash should be 6 feet long, slender and as light as possible, especially at the clasp. If you've got a heavy leash that you bought for an older, bigger dog, save it for later and get something appropriate for a puppy. Even a length of lightweight cord tied to a light snap is better than a leash that's too heavy.

The leash is a symbol of your leadership, and when you let your puppy chew on the leash, you're letting him chew on your authority. Considering the sharp nature of puppy teeth, you'll also be spending money for new leashes pretty regularly. Neither of these is desirable. So do not let your puppy chew on the leash. Yank it upward an inch or so out of his mouth while delivering a stern "no." And praise -- never, ever forget to praise -- when your pup does what you ask!

Q: We've grown tired of opening the door for our cat, so we put in a cat flap. How can we teach him how to use it? -- W.H., via e-mail

A: After you install your cat door, just leave it be for a week or so until your cat takes its presence for granted. Remember always that cats aren't keen on change.

To teach him to use the door, tape the flap up securely for a few days so that he comes to appreciate the fact that he can conveniently come and go on his own schedule through this magic portal. (And I do mean securely. If your cat gets clobbered by the flap, it takes a long time to coax him near it again.)

Then put the flap down and put a little butter or margarine on the bottom edge of the flap and encourage him with tasty treats and praise from the other side. You can also drag toys on a string through, encouraging him to chase them.

Repeat these lessons in very short intervals over the course of several days, and your cat will get the hang of it, sure enough.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600