In recent years, cat lovers have been horrified by reports of deadly tumors caused by something that's supposed to save the lives of their pets -- routine vaccinations. Unfortunately the disease called vaccine-associated feline sarcoma, or feline vaccine-site sarcoma, is more than a rumor, and it has claimed the lives of many cats.

Researchers now believe tumors occur in cats who have been given feline leukemia or rabies vaccines, and not in those who've been given protection against feline panleukopenia, feline rhinotracheitis and feline calicivirus. (The combination vaccine that protects against these latter illnesses is referred to by the initials FVRCP, and may also include protection against feline chlamydiosis.)

No one is quite sure why the problems occur with leukemia or rabies vaccines, and the cancer risk is low -- about one cat per 10,000 vaccinated. It's important to remember that vaccines remain an important tool of preventive care, especially when compared to the dangers of not vaccinating your cat. After all, not vaccinating risks not only your cat's health, but also, in the case of rabies, your own.

To help protect your cat, you should take the following precautions.

-- At your pet's annual examination, discuss with your veterinarian which vaccines your cat really needs. Because of the number of cats infected with rabies -- since 1981, more cats than dogs in the United States have been diagnosed with rabies -- rabies protection is important, and it is required by law in an increasing number of places. Your cat may not need to be vaccinated against feline leukemia, however, if he's always kept indoors and doesn't interact with other cats.

-- Discuss with your veterinarian the location of the vaccine injections, and ask her to use single-agent vaccines instead of ones that protect against a combination of diseases. Recent recommendations include giving each vaccine in a specific location to help confirm which vaccines are responsible for any problem, and to allow for more treatment options should such a problem develop.

-- Make sure your veterinarian notes the vaccination sites on your pet's health record, as well as information on the vaccines, such as the name of the manufacturer and the serial number.

-- Be aware of any lumps at the vaccine sites. A small lump immediately after vaccination is normal, but call your veterinarian if the lump grows or persists beyond three weeks.

Research is ongoing to speed the development of vaccines that are less likely to cause vaccine-associated sarcomas. The first generation of "less reactive" vaccines is on the market now, but it is too early to know if these vaccines will fulfill their promise of being less likely to cause vaccine-associated cancer. As always, it's essential to consult your veterinarian for the latest information on this and other important preventive health measures.

PETS ON THE WEB

One of my favorite cartoons is by Peter Steiner. It depicts a dog sitting in front of a computer, talking to another dog who's sitting on the floor next to his chair. "On the Internet," explains the dog at the keyboard, "nobody knows you're a dog."

I'm not the only one who thinks it's a hoot, for on the New Yorker's cartoon Web site (www.cartoonbank.com), this little bit of inspired canine humor is very popular, indeed. You can buy a framed print for $195, or a T-shirt for $15.

You can also send the image to a friend, as an electronic greeting card, and that's the real beauty of this Web site. By clicking on "Ecards" and then on "Cats" or "Dogs," you can choose from 84 classic New Yorker cartoons, add your own message on the side, and e-mail it to any animal-loving friend you choose -- and it won't cost you a dime.

THE SCOOP

If you're a shade-tree mechanic, take extra care when changing your car's coolant. Antifreeze poses a deadly risk to pets: Thousands of them are poisoned every year, and a high percentage of them die as a result. And it doesn't take much to do the damage. Your cat can ingest a lethal dose merely by walking through a puddle and then licking the solution off his paws.

Make sure you wipe up any spills immediately when working with toxic chemicals. Even better, consider switching to a less toxic brand of antifreeze. Traditional antifreeze is made from ethylene glycol, while the new products are made from propylene glycol. But you don't have to remember all that, because the "pet-safe" brands happily trumpet their benefits on the label. Check them out at any auto-supply store.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I've noticed lately that every van and sport utility vehicle seems to come factory equipped with a barrier behind the back seat to keep dogs in the cargo area. Is this a safe way to transport a dog? -- R.K., via e-mail

A: You might want to ask author Stephen King that question. His near-fatal accident last summer happened when he was struck by a man who was wrestling with an out-of-control dog in the car. It's a good bet that if the dog were safely behind a barrier, the accident would never have happened.

So barriers are a good idea for the safety of humans, but what about the dogs? By far the safest way to transport a pet is in a shipping crate. The ones designed for air travel and made of high-impact plastic are so sturdy that a Labrador puppy in a crate was one of few survivors in an airline disaster. A crate that's secured (you don't want the crate and the pet flying around in a car crash) provides a high degree of safety for human and animal passengers alike. If you can equip your vehicle with crates, you're probably better off.

Problem is, for big dogs you need big crates. They don't fit in sedans, and they take up a lot of space in vans and SUVs if you intend to leave them set up. That's highly impractical, which is why we're seeing so many of those barriers you describe. I think they're a good compromise between safety and convenience, and I have to admit my own two retrievers travel behind one in my van.

My smallest dog, Andy the sheltie, usually rides in the passenger-side seat, and for him, I've opted for another safety device: He wears a seat belt. The contraption consists of a padded harness with a short length of heavy-duty fabric ending in a clasp with a loop through which the regular seat belt is fed. You'll find many variations on this basic design: Some manufacturers offer just the connector piece, and you supply the harness. I've also seen ones that click directly into the seat-beat clasp.

Please note that no one knows exactly how well these strategies work. The government's safety tests don't include little dog and cat crash-test dummies, after all. But we do know that having animals secured helps keep the driver focused on the road, and anything that does that goes a long way toward preventing accidents.

Q: I have a comment about your recent column on longhaired cats vs. shorthaired cats. As every cat lover knows, no outfit is complete without cat hair. -- H.E., via e-mail

A. I can certainly say that I've never left the house without fur on me, no matter how much time I might have spent with the lint-roller before stepping out the door. A little fur is a small price to pay for the love we get from our animals.

Once I heard a comment about animals that's both funny and true: A true animal lover is a person who'll send back a meal in a restaurant because there's a human hair in it, but who at home will pick pet fur off the butter and eat without a moment's hesitation.

And since everyone who reads my column knows I am indeed a true animal lover, I'm guessing I'll now be getting polite refusals from those I've invited over to dinner for a long time to come. No matter. Anyone who has ever eaten at my home knows I'm a lousy cook anyway.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

With neighborhood schools at both ends of my street, the parade of children past my house is constant year-round, but certainly busier now, with the children suddenly wearing shoes and hauling backpacks as they trudge unhappily to the start of a new school year. On their way, they must pass what statistics suggest is a hazard to their well-being: a pair of large dogs who are chained in an open side yard next to their owners' home.

The dogs are of one of those breeds that give parents nightmares, and even though these two seem perfectly good-natured, I worry about walking by them myself. The typical profile of a dog involved in a serious attack fits these guys to a tee: young, unneutered males on chains. Such dogs are always just one broken chain away from disaster.

Many of the children in my neighborhood walk on the other side of the street from the dogs, but I notice there are a few -- there are always a few, aren't there? -- who seem to take pleasure in teasing the dogs. It's just another one of those reasons why I've often thought it incredible that so many children make it through their formative years in one piece.

To be fair (and to return to those statistics), dogs aren't the biggest risk children face growing up. Organized sports, for example, are 10 times more likely to result in a child's trip to the emergency room than are dogs. And you can reduce the chances of injury significantly by making your children aware of the dangers and by drilling into them what to do, and what not to do, when facing a dog who may be vicious.

Here's what every child should know:

-- Never approach a loose dog, even if he seems friendly. Dogs that are confined in yards, and especially those dogs on chains, should also be avoided. Many are very serious about protecting their turf. If the dog is with her owner, children should always ask permission before petting and then begin by offering the back of the hand for a sniff. Pat on the neck or chest. The dog may interpret a pat from above as a gesture of dominance. Teach your children to avoid fast or jerky movements.

-- Be a tree when a dog approaches, standing straight with feet together, fists under the neck and elbows into the chest. Teach them to make no eye contact. Some dogs view eye contact as a challenge. Running is a normal response to danger, but it's the worst possible thing to do around a dog, because it triggers the animal's instinct to chase and bite. Many dogs just sniff and leave. Teach your children to stay still until the animal walks away, and then back away slowly out of the area.

-- "Feed" the dog a jacket or backpack if attacked, or use a bike to block the dog. These strategies may keep an attacking dog's teeth from connecting with flesh.

-- Act like a log if knocked down: face down, legs together, curled into a ball with fists covering the back of the neck and forearms over the ears. This position protects vital areas and can keep an attack from turning fatal. Role-play these lessons with your child until they are ingrained. They may save your child's life.

From the other side of the equation, be aware of your role as a dog owner in preventing attacks. Socialize and train your dog from the day you get him. Neuter him, to help avoid dominance challenges that can be especially dangerous to children. And keep him where children can't get to him. At the end of a chain is no place for a dog.

PETS ON THE WEB

Felice's World of Turtles (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/felicerood/) is an entertaining and information-packed page about turtles (and tortoises) lovingly put together by a woman who has dedicated her life to their proper care.

Felice Rood is founder and president of the Sacramento Turtle and Tortoise Club. Her writings, online and in the club's newsletter, have made me smile for years. Her stories of the turtles and tortoises living in her suburban house and yard bring out the distinctive personalities of these gentle beings.

On her Web page, she offers the text from those newsletters, plus articles on care. She also sells her two videos. I have both, and can wholeheartedly recommend them.

THE SCOOP

If your fat cat misses a few meals, shouldn't that be good news? After all, it's not as if he couldn't afford to lose a pound or two. While it's not good for any cat to be overweight, a fat cat who starts starving himself could get into big trouble fast. That's because cats, especially obese ones, are at risk for feline hepatic lipidosis, also known as fatty liver disease.

The condition is triggered when a cat stops eating for any reason and plunges a cat into a downward spiral. She doesn't eat, which makes her feel crummy, so she won't eat and so on, until she's too ill to be saved. The reason fat cats are at greater risk is because their livers are too choked with fat to function properly.

The bottom line: A cat who doesn't eat for more than 48 hours needs prompt veterinary care, especially if the animal is overweight.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We recently got a cockatiel (youngster, we think), and he is great. When feeding him, if the seed cup is filled, how do you know when it needs to be refilled or emptied? I read that the empty seeds can stay on top and there is still good stuff below. I just don't want to be dumping out good seed if it isn't necessary. -- K.D., via e-mail

A: Even "good seed" is bad news for your cockatiel. I get so frustrated when I see seed promoted as a complete diet for birds in grocery stores and some pet stores. It's not.

Seeds are just junk food -- too much fat, not enough other nutrients. Seeds are a treat, at best, not a complete diet. Keep that cup filled with seeds and you could be shortening your pet's life considerably.

Get your cockatiel onto one of the new pelleted diets, which lays a basic foundation for good nutrition. To that, add an array of fresh fruits and vegetables, and healthy "people food" such as pasta, beans, cottage cheese, bread and even lean chicken breast.

Seeds are great for treats and for training. But for a diet? To answer your original question about what to do with the seed cup, here's my answer: Empty it, for good.

Q: I have a border collie/springer spaniel cross, Charlie, who loves to be outside with me. I am thinking of taking him on a bike ride with me one day. But I need to find a way to teach him to stay to one side of the trail when I tell him to, and to turn back to me as soon as he sees another rider. Any suggestions? -- H.R., via e-mail

A: I'm not real keen on the idea of off-leash dogs on busy trails. There's too much possibility for mayhem. Even the most well-mannered dog can cause an accident on a horse or bike trail. All it takes is a biker coming quickly around a blind corner and running into the dog, or the dog spooking a horse, and somebody's going to get hurt.

Your dog is indeed of a background that demands action, and I commend you for trying to give Charlie the exercise he needs. I'd suggest that you spend time with him in off-leash areas intended for dogs, and keep him exercised there by playing fetch or just letting him run with other dogs.

If the weather's cool enough, you can skip the trails and still do road work with your dog on your bike. Pick quiet streets, keep him leashed, and don't push too hard. A good trot is an ideal pace for Charlie.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As much fun as puppies are, there's no doubt they're also a lot of work. Let the opportunities of puppyhood pass you by, though, and you'll end up with a poorly behaved dog. Keep in mind, always, that it's easier to prevent a problem than to fix one, and that's never so true as in raising a puppy.

You want your puppy to love you and respect you, to know his place in the family, and to feel secure and happy in it. Doing so takes training, structure and lots of loving praise.

When your puppy does something right, let him know it. The first time the little lightbulb goes off in his head connecting the word "sit" to the lowering of his rump (if you watch, you can see the workings of his mind in his eyes), be ready to tell him he's the smartest, most perfect, most beautiful and best-loved puppy in the whole history of the world the instant his little butt hits the ground. Croon to him like Bing Crosby. Pat him and stroke him.

At other times, your puppy won't be perfect, and you'll need to correct his behavior. Here are few gentle ways to send a clear message of disapproval:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and provides the puppy with one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy is chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, a toy. When he takes it, praise him! (And put those shoes away.)

-- Ask for another behavior. With older puppies, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Tell the puppy who's jumping up "no" and then "sit," and praise him for planting his rump on the ground.

-- The time-out. Crates, so useful for house-training, can help give you a break from your puppy, and they send him a message at the same time. Puppies thrive on your attention, sometimes even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward and gives a pup a few minutes to think things over.

This technique is especially good for a puppy who doesn't want to keep his mouth to himself, a bad habit for any dog to get into where people are concerned. When the puppy starts nipping, tell him "no," and then clam up, pick him up, and put him in his crate for five minutes. Ignore the cries and whimpers. After he settles down, let him out without much fanfare and let him hang out with you quietly for a while.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him in his crate for a nap, along with a chew toy. Again, ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

If you're finding you need to do a lot of stern corrections, you may be sending your puppy mixed signals: laughing at bratty behavior sometimes, yelling at it other times. Discuss the situation with a trainer -- soon. You may have some big problems developing if you don't learn how to shape your puppy's behavior in an effective way.

And finally, try a puppy class! Puppy classes for dogs as young as 12 weeks offer puppies a chance to socialize, and you an opportunity to work with your pup under the expert eye of a trainer.

PETS ON THE WEB

The headline on the Pet Care Forum's main screen (www.vin.com/petcare) says it all: "Fleas: We hate 'em!" Click on the link, and you'll find my colleagues (at the Veterinary Information Network's pet care site) have put together the best collection on the Internet when it comes to learning more about fleas and how to eradicate them.

On the flea information page (www.vin.com/petcare/Series/Fleas.htm), you can learn about the life cycle of the pest, compare information on most flea-control products and practices, and find out about the diseases credited to these hardy little bugs. Click on "references," and you'll be offered links to veterinary journal pieces, manufacturer's information sites and more.

Most of this in-depth series was written by Dr. Stuart Turner, a longtime VIN contributor who's a critical-care veterinarian in Northern California.

THE SCOOP: Should your dogs share the use of your swimming pool? That depends on your dog, and on your tolerance for dog hair in the pool filter.

With some breeds, you should be as careful as you would be with a toddler, and surround the pool with a low fence to prevent any accidents. That's because some dogs just aren't built for swimming. Primary among them would be the bulldog, a breed that has a tendency to sink like a stone in water, making pools such a hazard that some of the breed's rescue groups won't even consider placing a bulldog in a home with an unprotected pool.

Small dogs may be able to swim just fine, but shouldn't be allowed in the pool unsupervised because they have a hard time getting out. If you have retrievers, though, or another water-loving large dog, you can probably stop worrying. Once you're sure they know where to find the steps to get out of the pool, you can let them swim to their heart's content.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a question to you ask about introducing cats and dogs. I have two cats, a Persian and a Siamese. My significant other has a Great Dane. We would like to introduce her dog to my two cats. Our relationship is getting pretty serious, and I would like for her to be able to bring her dog over when she stays the night. What's the best way to do this? -- W.D., via e-mail

A: In a word: slowly. Put the dog on a leash when the animals are first introduced, and be prepared for your cats to freak, especially if the presence of any dog in your home is a new experience. Correct the dog for trying to chase, ask him to sit, and praise him for proper behavior. If you have any doubts, let the dog drag his leash around in the house so you can quickly step on it and correct him if he starts to chase the cats.

Cats can take a long time to get used to having a dog in the house -- a couple of months, in some cases. Be sure that your cats have a place to eat where they can feel secure, such as a tabletop or in a room the dog can't get into. Likewise, take steps to make sure that their litter box is inaccessible to the dog. It's a good idea to move the dishes and litter box beforehand, so your cats don't have to deal with too many new things at once.

Although it doesn't seem fair to our human sensibilities, your cats may prefer to spend the adjustment period sequestered in a small room with food and water, toys, a litter box and a scratching post. A quiet, orderly life in a small, protected area helps many cats ease through the transition. When you open the door after a couple of weeks, let your cats choose how much or how little interaction they want with the new dog. Don't force the animals together, no matter how much you want them to "like each other." They need to work things out on their own. Put a baby gate across the door to the safe room, so you cats can always escape to a dog-free zone.

Most dogs and cats will work things out eventually, but some dogs can never get past the idea that cats make a tasty snack. And some cats leave home over the introduction of new pets, or avoid the litter box as a result of the stress. If that's the case, you may end having to make some difficult decisions.

Q: I have a 4-year-old border collie who is very aggressive and a biter with strangers. He spends a lot of time in the basement when we have company. I can't trust him around kids -- but if he knows you, he is a totally different dog. Behavior therapy has been mentioned, but it is not close to where we live, and I don't think it will help. I have to muzzle him at the vet's. We have a 9-year-old daughter that the dog is fine with. She is the only kid he can be near. Any ideas? -- L.T., via e-mail

A: You are living with a time bomb, and the clock is running out. Your dog has bitten and will bite again. Do not wait to take action until this animal has condemned some innocent child to a lifetime of plastic surgery.

You must find a trainer or behaviorist who can evaluate your dog, and tell you what can and cannot be done to help the situation. Be forewarned: In some cases, the only realistic course of action is to have the dog put down.

As harsh as that solution is even to contemplate, it may be a better choice for both you and the dog. The dog cannot be happy spending his life muzzled or in the basement. And you cannot be happy spending your life waiting for your dog to bite someone.

Aggression is the most serious behavior problem there is, not only because of the threat an aggressive dog poses to society, but because of the increase in anti-dog sentiment whenever a dog attacks someone. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can advise you -- and don't delay.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600