With neighborhood schools at both ends of my street, the parade of children past my house is constant year-round, but certainly busier now, with the children suddenly wearing shoes and hauling backpacks as they trudge unhappily to the start of a new school year. On their way, they must pass what statistics suggest is a hazard to their well-being: a pair of large dogs who are chained in an open side yard next to their owners' home.

The dogs are of one of those breeds that give parents nightmares, and even though these two seem perfectly good-natured, I worry about walking by them myself. The typical profile of a dog involved in a serious attack fits these guys to a tee: young, unneutered males on chains. Such dogs are always just one broken chain away from disaster.

Many of the children in my neighborhood walk on the other side of the street from the dogs, but I notice there are a few -- there are always a few, aren't there? -- who seem to take pleasure in teasing the dogs. It's just another one of those reasons why I've often thought it incredible that so many children make it through their formative years in one piece.

To be fair (and to return to those statistics), dogs aren't the biggest risk children face growing up. Organized sports, for example, are 10 times more likely to result in a child's trip to the emergency room than are dogs. And you can reduce the chances of injury significantly by making your children aware of the dangers and by drilling into them what to do, and what not to do, when facing a dog who may be vicious.

Here's what every child should know:

-- Never approach a loose dog, even if he seems friendly. Dogs that are confined in yards, and especially those dogs on chains, should also be avoided. Many are very serious about protecting their turf. If the dog is with her owner, children should always ask permission before petting and then begin by offering the back of the hand for a sniff. Pat on the neck or chest. The dog may interpret a pat from above as a gesture of dominance. Teach your children to avoid fast or jerky movements.

-- Be a tree when a dog approaches, standing straight with feet together, fists under the neck and elbows into the chest. Teach them to make no eye contact. Some dogs view eye contact as a challenge. Running is a normal response to danger, but it's the worst possible thing to do around a dog, because it triggers the animal's instinct to chase and bite. Many dogs just sniff and leave. Teach your children to stay still until the animal walks away, and then back away slowly out of the area.

-- "Feed" the dog a jacket or backpack if attacked, or use a bike to block the dog. These strategies may keep an attacking dog's teeth from connecting with flesh.

-- Act like a log if knocked down: face down, legs together, curled into a ball with fists covering the back of the neck and forearms over the ears. This position protects vital areas and can keep an attack from turning fatal. Role-play these lessons with your child until they are ingrained. They may save your child's life.

From the other side of the equation, be aware of your role as a dog owner in preventing attacks. Socialize and train your dog from the day you get him. Neuter him, to help avoid dominance challenges that can be especially dangerous to children. And keep him where children can't get to him. At the end of a chain is no place for a dog.

PETS ON THE WEB

Felice's World of Turtles (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/felicerood/) is an entertaining and information-packed page about turtles (and tortoises) lovingly put together by a woman who has dedicated her life to their proper care.

Felice Rood is founder and president of the Sacramento Turtle and Tortoise Club. Her writings, online and in the club's newsletter, have made me smile for years. Her stories of the turtles and tortoises living in her suburban house and yard bring out the distinctive personalities of these gentle beings.

On her Web page, she offers the text from those newsletters, plus articles on care. She also sells her two videos. I have both, and can wholeheartedly recommend them.

THE SCOOP

If your fat cat misses a few meals, shouldn't that be good news? After all, it's not as if he couldn't afford to lose a pound or two. While it's not good for any cat to be overweight, a fat cat who starts starving himself could get into big trouble fast. That's because cats, especially obese ones, are at risk for feline hepatic lipidosis, also known as fatty liver disease.

The condition is triggered when a cat stops eating for any reason and plunges a cat into a downward spiral. She doesn't eat, which makes her feel crummy, so she won't eat and so on, until she's too ill to be saved. The reason fat cats are at greater risk is because their livers are too choked with fat to function properly.

The bottom line: A cat who doesn't eat for more than 48 hours needs prompt veterinary care, especially if the animal is overweight.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We recently got a cockatiel (youngster, we think), and he is great. When feeding him, if the seed cup is filled, how do you know when it needs to be refilled or emptied? I read that the empty seeds can stay on top and there is still good stuff below. I just don't want to be dumping out good seed if it isn't necessary. -- K.D., via e-mail

A: Even "good seed" is bad news for your cockatiel. I get so frustrated when I see seed promoted as a complete diet for birds in grocery stores and some pet stores. It's not.

Seeds are just junk food -- too much fat, not enough other nutrients. Seeds are a treat, at best, not a complete diet. Keep that cup filled with seeds and you could be shortening your pet's life considerably.

Get your cockatiel onto one of the new pelleted diets, which lays a basic foundation for good nutrition. To that, add an array of fresh fruits and vegetables, and healthy "people food" such as pasta, beans, cottage cheese, bread and even lean chicken breast.

Seeds are great for treats and for training. But for a diet? To answer your original question about what to do with the seed cup, here's my answer: Empty it, for good.

Q: I have a border collie/springer spaniel cross, Charlie, who loves to be outside with me. I am thinking of taking him on a bike ride with me one day. But I need to find a way to teach him to stay to one side of the trail when I tell him to, and to turn back to me as soon as he sees another rider. Any suggestions? -- H.R., via e-mail

A: I'm not real keen on the idea of off-leash dogs on busy trails. There's too much possibility for mayhem. Even the most well-mannered dog can cause an accident on a horse or bike trail. All it takes is a biker coming quickly around a blind corner and running into the dog, or the dog spooking a horse, and somebody's going to get hurt.

Your dog is indeed of a background that demands action, and I commend you for trying to give Charlie the exercise he needs. I'd suggest that you spend time with him in off-leash areas intended for dogs, and keep him exercised there by playing fetch or just letting him run with other dogs.

If the weather's cool enough, you can skip the trails and still do road work with your dog on your bike. Pick quiet streets, keep him leashed, and don't push too hard. A good trot is an ideal pace for Charlie.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As much fun as puppies are, there's no doubt they're also a lot of work. Let the opportunities of puppyhood pass you by, though, and you'll end up with a poorly behaved dog. Keep in mind, always, that it's easier to prevent a problem than to fix one, and that's never so true as in raising a puppy.

You want your puppy to love you and respect you, to know his place in the family, and to feel secure and happy in it. Doing so takes training, structure and lots of loving praise.

When your puppy does something right, let him know it. The first time the little lightbulb goes off in his head connecting the word "sit" to the lowering of his rump (if you watch, you can see the workings of his mind in his eyes), be ready to tell him he's the smartest, most perfect, most beautiful and best-loved puppy in the whole history of the world the instant his little butt hits the ground. Croon to him like Bing Crosby. Pat him and stroke him.

At other times, your puppy won't be perfect, and you'll need to correct his behavior. Here are few gentle ways to send a clear message of disapproval:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and provides the puppy with one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy is chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, a toy. When he takes it, praise him! (And put those shoes away.)

-- Ask for another behavior. With older puppies, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Tell the puppy who's jumping up "no" and then "sit," and praise him for planting his rump on the ground.

-- The time-out. Crates, so useful for house-training, can help give you a break from your puppy, and they send him a message at the same time. Puppies thrive on your attention, sometimes even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward and gives a pup a few minutes to think things over.

This technique is especially good for a puppy who doesn't want to keep his mouth to himself, a bad habit for any dog to get into where people are concerned. When the puppy starts nipping, tell him "no," and then clam up, pick him up, and put him in his crate for five minutes. Ignore the cries and whimpers. After he settles down, let him out without much fanfare and let him hang out with you quietly for a while.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him in his crate for a nap, along with a chew toy. Again, ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

If you're finding you need to do a lot of stern corrections, you may be sending your puppy mixed signals: laughing at bratty behavior sometimes, yelling at it other times. Discuss the situation with a trainer -- soon. You may have some big problems developing if you don't learn how to shape your puppy's behavior in an effective way.

And finally, try a puppy class! Puppy classes for dogs as young as 12 weeks offer puppies a chance to socialize, and you an opportunity to work with your pup under the expert eye of a trainer.

PETS ON THE WEB

The headline on the Pet Care Forum's main screen (www.vin.com/petcare) says it all: "Fleas: We hate 'em!" Click on the link, and you'll find my colleagues (at the Veterinary Information Network's pet care site) have put together the best collection on the Internet when it comes to learning more about fleas and how to eradicate them.

On the flea information page (www.vin.com/petcare/Series/Fleas.htm), you can learn about the life cycle of the pest, compare information on most flea-control products and practices, and find out about the diseases credited to these hardy little bugs. Click on "references," and you'll be offered links to veterinary journal pieces, manufacturer's information sites and more.

Most of this in-depth series was written by Dr. Stuart Turner, a longtime VIN contributor who's a critical-care veterinarian in Northern California.

THE SCOOP: Should your dogs share the use of your swimming pool? That depends on your dog, and on your tolerance for dog hair in the pool filter.

With some breeds, you should be as careful as you would be with a toddler, and surround the pool with a low fence to prevent any accidents. That's because some dogs just aren't built for swimming. Primary among them would be the bulldog, a breed that has a tendency to sink like a stone in water, making pools such a hazard that some of the breed's rescue groups won't even consider placing a bulldog in a home with an unprotected pool.

Small dogs may be able to swim just fine, but shouldn't be allowed in the pool unsupervised because they have a hard time getting out. If you have retrievers, though, or another water-loving large dog, you can probably stop worrying. Once you're sure they know where to find the steps to get out of the pool, you can let them swim to their heart's content.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a question to you ask about introducing cats and dogs. I have two cats, a Persian and a Siamese. My significant other has a Great Dane. We would like to introduce her dog to my two cats. Our relationship is getting pretty serious, and I would like for her to be able to bring her dog over when she stays the night. What's the best way to do this? -- W.D., via e-mail

A: In a word: slowly. Put the dog on a leash when the animals are first introduced, and be prepared for your cats to freak, especially if the presence of any dog in your home is a new experience. Correct the dog for trying to chase, ask him to sit, and praise him for proper behavior. If you have any doubts, let the dog drag his leash around in the house so you can quickly step on it and correct him if he starts to chase the cats.

Cats can take a long time to get used to having a dog in the house -- a couple of months, in some cases. Be sure that your cats have a place to eat where they can feel secure, such as a tabletop or in a room the dog can't get into. Likewise, take steps to make sure that their litter box is inaccessible to the dog. It's a good idea to move the dishes and litter box beforehand, so your cats don't have to deal with too many new things at once.

Although it doesn't seem fair to our human sensibilities, your cats may prefer to spend the adjustment period sequestered in a small room with food and water, toys, a litter box and a scratching post. A quiet, orderly life in a small, protected area helps many cats ease through the transition. When you open the door after a couple of weeks, let your cats choose how much or how little interaction they want with the new dog. Don't force the animals together, no matter how much you want them to "like each other." They need to work things out on their own. Put a baby gate across the door to the safe room, so you cats can always escape to a dog-free zone.

Most dogs and cats will work things out eventually, but some dogs can never get past the idea that cats make a tasty snack. And some cats leave home over the introduction of new pets, or avoid the litter box as a result of the stress. If that's the case, you may end having to make some difficult decisions.

Q: I have a 4-year-old border collie who is very aggressive and a biter with strangers. He spends a lot of time in the basement when we have company. I can't trust him around kids -- but if he knows you, he is a totally different dog. Behavior therapy has been mentioned, but it is not close to where we live, and I don't think it will help. I have to muzzle him at the vet's. We have a 9-year-old daughter that the dog is fine with. She is the only kid he can be near. Any ideas? -- L.T., via e-mail

A: You are living with a time bomb, and the clock is running out. Your dog has bitten and will bite again. Do not wait to take action until this animal has condemned some innocent child to a lifetime of plastic surgery.

You must find a trainer or behaviorist who can evaluate your dog, and tell you what can and cannot be done to help the situation. Be forewarned: In some cases, the only realistic course of action is to have the dog put down.

As harsh as that solution is even to contemplate, it may be a better choice for both you and the dog. The dog cannot be happy spending his life muzzled or in the basement. And you cannot be happy spending your life waiting for your dog to bite someone.

Aggression is the most serious behavior problem there is, not only because of the threat an aggressive dog poses to society, but because of the increase in anti-dog sentiment whenever a dog attacks someone. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can advise you -- and don't delay.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Let's get one thing straight up front: Almost all cats shed. The "almost" is there to apply to those very few cats who haven't any fur -- such as those of the Sphynx breed, who still manage to carry a little down that can rub off on your clothes. Once you accept the shedding, though, you'll find there's a lot of variety when it comes to cat fur.

Cats can have three kinds of hair in their coats -- down, awn and guard. The down is the shortest, finest and softest hair. The awn is the coarsest, and the guard (sometimes called the primary hairs) is the longest. Not all cats have all three varieties. The Cornish Rex, for example, has only down and wavy awn hairs, giving the coat a distinctive feel some have described as being like touching warm suede.

If you count out the more exotic coats of some purebred cats, though, you're mostly looking at the difference between choosing shorthaired and longhaired cats. If you're thinking of adding a cat or kitten, you should give some thought to the kind of fur you like, since you'll be brushing it off every piece of clothing and furniture you own for the next dozen years or more.

Some people like the sleek look and feel of a shorthaired cat; others adore the flowing softness of the longhairs. The shorthairs have about them the air of a tiger: You can see their muscles move as they walk, see the coiled promise of power while they sleep. In longhairs, the power is even more subtle, hidden by lush thickets of lovely long fur. Do you prefer to rub your hand down a sleek pelt or bury your fingers in a longhaired one?

What about shedding? The difference in shedding levels between short- and longhaired cats can be dramatic, especially in cats that are prized for the volume of coat, such as with Persians. Are you prepared to live with a lint roller in your bathroom, your glove box and your desk drawer at work? Would you be appalled to have a friend pick one of those glorious 4-inch pieces of fur off the back of your sweater? If you're on the low end of fur tolerance, you'd better stick with shorthaired cats. (If you have no tolerance for fur at all, maybe you'd be better off with a tank of fish.)

You also need to consider the extra care that goes into all but the sleekest of coats. Longhaired cats mat easily and need to be combed out every other day or so and brushed thoroughly on a weekly basis. Hairballs, clumps of fur caught in the cat's digestive system, can be a constant problem with longhaired cats, requiring medical attention. If your cat's mats get out of control, you'll need seek out a professional groomer, and that costs money. You'll spend even more money if you elect, as some cat owners do, to have your longhaired cat professionally groomed on a regular basis.

Longhaired cats are more challenging to live with in other ways, too. Their urine and feces can get caught in their coats, and litter may catch on the tufts of fur in their paws and get tracked all over the house.

In my own home, I have always preferred longhaired pets to short ones, and consider the extra effort well worth it. I love the feel of a fluffy coat! It's purely a matter of personal preference, though, and it's a decision you'll have to make on your own before adding a pet to your family.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Overweening hubris is not part of the Hamster Way," claims The Hamster Page (www.direct.ca/hamster), and hey, who am I to argue? This nifty page isn't much to look at, but if you want to find all the Internet has to say on hamsters, this is where you must go.

There are links galore, divided into "Useful" (care and handling information) and "Useless" (humorous or bizarre), as well as categories for hamster links that aren't really about hamsters, and some e-mail to the page's creator that can be all of the above.

Oh, and if you're wondering why anyone would spend time collecting hamster links, here's one answer: "Hamsters are honest, fun-loving and trustworthy rodents that are deserving of more respect! And they're certainly deserving of their own Useless Web Page." I wholly concur, and I enjoyed the light touch of this helpful site.

THE SCOOP

Although every imaginable feline coat length, type and color has a fan somewhere, you do need to watch out for one thing that's related to coat color: White cats with blue eyes have a high probability for deafness. Some of these cats have eyes of different colors and are deaf only on the side with the blue eye. (You can check for deafness by snapping your fingers or clapping your hands behind a cat's or kitten's head.) Though a deaf cat can still be a good pet -- indoors only, for her own protection -- you'll still want to know what you're getting into before you adopt.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm a 4-month-old flat-coated retriever, and momma says I should write and say thank you for sharing about how great head halters are. I got one, and now I get to go for walks again and I don't choke myself!

But I have one problem. Mom says I can't go for long walks yet because I'm just a baby, and I could hurt my joints. I say it's not fair, and I wanna go for long walks, like the ones the springer spaniel gets to go on (he's 5). Who is right? -- Eleos, via e-mail

A: Eleos, you're already ahead of my two flat-coated retrievers, neither of whom shows any interest in the computer. (Indeed, they despise it, because they know the time I'm fooling with it is time I could be spending taking them swimming or to the dog park.)

You didn't say how long the walks are, but a half-mile to a mile seems plenty at your young age. To be honest, even longer walks wouldn't worry me too much, but I'd definitely avoid jogging with your mom, especially on hard pavement, until you are all grown up. Maybe you should play "fetch" on grass instead. Swimming is great, too, and I know you'd like that. (My younger flat-coat, Heather, was an otter in an earlier life, I think, based on how much she loves to be soaking wet.)

I'm glad you like your new head halter. You were too young to have a choke collar on, and now you'll never need one. Be patient! Your mom is trying to do what's best for you. And besides, you'll be grown up before you know it.

Q: I currently own a delightful pair of budgies, and I am looking into getting a parrot. What I already know is that I want a hand-raised, well-socialized and fully weaned baby. What I'm not sure about is the kind?

I want a "beginner's" parrot. I also want something medium sized and relatively quiet. For these reasons I have ruled out macaws, cockatoos, African greys and Amazons. Although I will enjoy teaching tricks and words, talking ability is not a priority. The most important trait I am looking for in my bird is the desire to cuddle and to be petted.

I am now considering a Senegal parrot. I am hoping you can tell me: Am I on the right track? Which other birds should I consider? -- L.V., via e-mail

A: Yes, you're on the right track. The Senegal is a fantastic small parrot, and one of my favorite birds. My Patrick, who died a few months ago, was a Senegal, and he was quiet enough that I had him in my office with me while I wrote. He kept himself amused playing quietly or coming over for an occasional kiss and snuggle.

Other birds to consider would be the pyrrhura conures -- the maroon-belly, green-cheeked and black-capped. These birds are smaller, less flashy, less expensive and much quieter than the aratinga conures such as the sun and jenday.

A final recommendation would be the pionus, which avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, my "Birds for Dummies" co-author, calls "the poster child for the underappreciated parrots." Pionus parrots are generally quiet and gentle.

A bonus: All these birds are considerably less to purchase then their flashier, noisier relatives, with prices in the low hundreds of dollars, compared to more than a thousand for some of the larger parrots. What a bargain!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600