As much fun as puppies are, there's no doubt they're also a lot of work. Let the opportunities of puppyhood pass you by, though, and you'll end up with a poorly behaved dog. Keep in mind, always, that it's easier to prevent a problem than to fix one, and that's never so true as in raising a puppy.

You want your puppy to love you and respect you, to know his place in the family, and to feel secure and happy in it. Doing so takes training, structure and lots of loving praise.

When your puppy does something right, let him know it. The first time the little lightbulb goes off in his head connecting the word "sit" to the lowering of his rump (if you watch, you can see the workings of his mind in his eyes), be ready to tell him he's the smartest, most perfect, most beautiful and best-loved puppy in the whole history of the world the instant his little butt hits the ground. Croon to him like Bing Crosby. Pat him and stroke him.

At other times, your puppy won't be perfect, and you'll need to correct his behavior. Here are few gentle ways to send a clear message of disapproval:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and provides the puppy with one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy is chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, a toy. When he takes it, praise him! (And put those shoes away.)

-- Ask for another behavior. With older puppies, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Tell the puppy who's jumping up "no" and then "sit," and praise him for planting his rump on the ground.

-- The time-out. Crates, so useful for house-training, can help give you a break from your puppy, and they send him a message at the same time. Puppies thrive on your attention, sometimes even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward and gives a pup a few minutes to think things over.

This technique is especially good for a puppy who doesn't want to keep his mouth to himself, a bad habit for any dog to get into where people are concerned. When the puppy starts nipping, tell him "no," and then clam up, pick him up, and put him in his crate for five minutes. Ignore the cries and whimpers. After he settles down, let him out without much fanfare and let him hang out with you quietly for a while.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him in his crate for a nap, along with a chew toy. Again, ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

If you're finding you need to do a lot of stern corrections, you may be sending your puppy mixed signals: laughing at bratty behavior sometimes, yelling at it other times. Discuss the situation with a trainer -- soon. You may have some big problems developing if you don't learn how to shape your puppy's behavior in an effective way.

And finally, try a puppy class! Puppy classes for dogs as young as 12 weeks offer puppies a chance to socialize, and you an opportunity to work with your pup under the expert eye of a trainer.

PETS ON THE WEB

The headline on the Pet Care Forum's main screen (www.vin.com/petcare) says it all: "Fleas: We hate 'em!" Click on the link, and you'll find my colleagues (at the Veterinary Information Network's pet care site) have put together the best collection on the Internet when it comes to learning more about fleas and how to eradicate them.

On the flea information page (www.vin.com/petcare/Series/Fleas.htm), you can learn about the life cycle of the pest, compare information on most flea-control products and practices, and find out about the diseases credited to these hardy little bugs. Click on "references," and you'll be offered links to veterinary journal pieces, manufacturer's information sites and more.

Most of this in-depth series was written by Dr. Stuart Turner, a longtime VIN contributor who's a critical-care veterinarian in Northern California.

THE SCOOP: Should your dogs share the use of your swimming pool? That depends on your dog, and on your tolerance for dog hair in the pool filter.

With some breeds, you should be as careful as you would be with a toddler, and surround the pool with a low fence to prevent any accidents. That's because some dogs just aren't built for swimming. Primary among them would be the bulldog, a breed that has a tendency to sink like a stone in water, making pools such a hazard that some of the breed's rescue groups won't even consider placing a bulldog in a home with an unprotected pool.

Small dogs may be able to swim just fine, but shouldn't be allowed in the pool unsupervised because they have a hard time getting out. If you have retrievers, though, or another water-loving large dog, you can probably stop worrying. Once you're sure they know where to find the steps to get out of the pool, you can let them swim to their heart's content.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a question to you ask about introducing cats and dogs. I have two cats, a Persian and a Siamese. My significant other has a Great Dane. We would like to introduce her dog to my two cats. Our relationship is getting pretty serious, and I would like for her to be able to bring her dog over when she stays the night. What's the best way to do this? -- W.D., via e-mail

A: In a word: slowly. Put the dog on a leash when the animals are first introduced, and be prepared for your cats to freak, especially if the presence of any dog in your home is a new experience. Correct the dog for trying to chase, ask him to sit, and praise him for proper behavior. If you have any doubts, let the dog drag his leash around in the house so you can quickly step on it and correct him if he starts to chase the cats.

Cats can take a long time to get used to having a dog in the house -- a couple of months, in some cases. Be sure that your cats have a place to eat where they can feel secure, such as a tabletop or in a room the dog can't get into. Likewise, take steps to make sure that their litter box is inaccessible to the dog. It's a good idea to move the dishes and litter box beforehand, so your cats don't have to deal with too many new things at once.

Although it doesn't seem fair to our human sensibilities, your cats may prefer to spend the adjustment period sequestered in a small room with food and water, toys, a litter box and a scratching post. A quiet, orderly life in a small, protected area helps many cats ease through the transition. When you open the door after a couple of weeks, let your cats choose how much or how little interaction they want with the new dog. Don't force the animals together, no matter how much you want them to "like each other." They need to work things out on their own. Put a baby gate across the door to the safe room, so you cats can always escape to a dog-free zone.

Most dogs and cats will work things out eventually, but some dogs can never get past the idea that cats make a tasty snack. And some cats leave home over the introduction of new pets, or avoid the litter box as a result of the stress. If that's the case, you may end having to make some difficult decisions.

Q: I have a 4-year-old border collie who is very aggressive and a biter with strangers. He spends a lot of time in the basement when we have company. I can't trust him around kids -- but if he knows you, he is a totally different dog. Behavior therapy has been mentioned, but it is not close to where we live, and I don't think it will help. I have to muzzle him at the vet's. We have a 9-year-old daughter that the dog is fine with. She is the only kid he can be near. Any ideas? -- L.T., via e-mail

A: You are living with a time bomb, and the clock is running out. Your dog has bitten and will bite again. Do not wait to take action until this animal has condemned some innocent child to a lifetime of plastic surgery.

You must find a trainer or behaviorist who can evaluate your dog, and tell you what can and cannot be done to help the situation. Be forewarned: In some cases, the only realistic course of action is to have the dog put down.

As harsh as that solution is even to contemplate, it may be a better choice for both you and the dog. The dog cannot be happy spending his life muzzled or in the basement. And you cannot be happy spending your life waiting for your dog to bite someone.

Aggression is the most serious behavior problem there is, not only because of the threat an aggressive dog poses to society, but because of the increase in anti-dog sentiment whenever a dog attacks someone. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can advise you -- and don't delay.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Let's get one thing straight up front: Almost all cats shed. The "almost" is there to apply to those very few cats who haven't any fur -- such as those of the Sphynx breed, who still manage to carry a little down that can rub off on your clothes. Once you accept the shedding, though, you'll find there's a lot of variety when it comes to cat fur.

Cats can have three kinds of hair in their coats -- down, awn and guard. The down is the shortest, finest and softest hair. The awn is the coarsest, and the guard (sometimes called the primary hairs) is the longest. Not all cats have all three varieties. The Cornish Rex, for example, has only down and wavy awn hairs, giving the coat a distinctive feel some have described as being like touching warm suede.

If you count out the more exotic coats of some purebred cats, though, you're mostly looking at the difference between choosing shorthaired and longhaired cats. If you're thinking of adding a cat or kitten, you should give some thought to the kind of fur you like, since you'll be brushing it off every piece of clothing and furniture you own for the next dozen years or more.

Some people like the sleek look and feel of a shorthaired cat; others adore the flowing softness of the longhairs. The shorthairs have about them the air of a tiger: You can see their muscles move as they walk, see the coiled promise of power while they sleep. In longhairs, the power is even more subtle, hidden by lush thickets of lovely long fur. Do you prefer to rub your hand down a sleek pelt or bury your fingers in a longhaired one?

What about shedding? The difference in shedding levels between short- and longhaired cats can be dramatic, especially in cats that are prized for the volume of coat, such as with Persians. Are you prepared to live with a lint roller in your bathroom, your glove box and your desk drawer at work? Would you be appalled to have a friend pick one of those glorious 4-inch pieces of fur off the back of your sweater? If you're on the low end of fur tolerance, you'd better stick with shorthaired cats. (If you have no tolerance for fur at all, maybe you'd be better off with a tank of fish.)

You also need to consider the extra care that goes into all but the sleekest of coats. Longhaired cats mat easily and need to be combed out every other day or so and brushed thoroughly on a weekly basis. Hairballs, clumps of fur caught in the cat's digestive system, can be a constant problem with longhaired cats, requiring medical attention. If your cat's mats get out of control, you'll need seek out a professional groomer, and that costs money. You'll spend even more money if you elect, as some cat owners do, to have your longhaired cat professionally groomed on a regular basis.

Longhaired cats are more challenging to live with in other ways, too. Their urine and feces can get caught in their coats, and litter may catch on the tufts of fur in their paws and get tracked all over the house.

In my own home, I have always preferred longhaired pets to short ones, and consider the extra effort well worth it. I love the feel of a fluffy coat! It's purely a matter of personal preference, though, and it's a decision you'll have to make on your own before adding a pet to your family.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Overweening hubris is not part of the Hamster Way," claims The Hamster Page (www.direct.ca/hamster), and hey, who am I to argue? This nifty page isn't much to look at, but if you want to find all the Internet has to say on hamsters, this is where you must go.

There are links galore, divided into "Useful" (care and handling information) and "Useless" (humorous or bizarre), as well as categories for hamster links that aren't really about hamsters, and some e-mail to the page's creator that can be all of the above.

Oh, and if you're wondering why anyone would spend time collecting hamster links, here's one answer: "Hamsters are honest, fun-loving and trustworthy rodents that are deserving of more respect! And they're certainly deserving of their own Useless Web Page." I wholly concur, and I enjoyed the light touch of this helpful site.

THE SCOOP

Although every imaginable feline coat length, type and color has a fan somewhere, you do need to watch out for one thing that's related to coat color: White cats with blue eyes have a high probability for deafness. Some of these cats have eyes of different colors and are deaf only on the side with the blue eye. (You can check for deafness by snapping your fingers or clapping your hands behind a cat's or kitten's head.) Though a deaf cat can still be a good pet -- indoors only, for her own protection -- you'll still want to know what you're getting into before you adopt.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm a 4-month-old flat-coated retriever, and momma says I should write and say thank you for sharing about how great head halters are. I got one, and now I get to go for walks again and I don't choke myself!

But I have one problem. Mom says I can't go for long walks yet because I'm just a baby, and I could hurt my joints. I say it's not fair, and I wanna go for long walks, like the ones the springer spaniel gets to go on (he's 5). Who is right? -- Eleos, via e-mail

A: Eleos, you're already ahead of my two flat-coated retrievers, neither of whom shows any interest in the computer. (Indeed, they despise it, because they know the time I'm fooling with it is time I could be spending taking them swimming or to the dog park.)

You didn't say how long the walks are, but a half-mile to a mile seems plenty at your young age. To be honest, even longer walks wouldn't worry me too much, but I'd definitely avoid jogging with your mom, especially on hard pavement, until you are all grown up. Maybe you should play "fetch" on grass instead. Swimming is great, too, and I know you'd like that. (My younger flat-coat, Heather, was an otter in an earlier life, I think, based on how much she loves to be soaking wet.)

I'm glad you like your new head halter. You were too young to have a choke collar on, and now you'll never need one. Be patient! Your mom is trying to do what's best for you. And besides, you'll be grown up before you know it.

Q: I currently own a delightful pair of budgies, and I am looking into getting a parrot. What I already know is that I want a hand-raised, well-socialized and fully weaned baby. What I'm not sure about is the kind?

I want a "beginner's" parrot. I also want something medium sized and relatively quiet. For these reasons I have ruled out macaws, cockatoos, African greys and Amazons. Although I will enjoy teaching tricks and words, talking ability is not a priority. The most important trait I am looking for in my bird is the desire to cuddle and to be petted.

I am now considering a Senegal parrot. I am hoping you can tell me: Am I on the right track? Which other birds should I consider? -- L.V., via e-mail

A: Yes, you're on the right track. The Senegal is a fantastic small parrot, and one of my favorite birds. My Patrick, who died a few months ago, was a Senegal, and he was quiet enough that I had him in my office with me while I wrote. He kept himself amused playing quietly or coming over for an occasional kiss and snuggle.

Other birds to consider would be the pyrrhura conures -- the maroon-belly, green-cheeked and black-capped. These birds are smaller, less flashy, less expensive and much quieter than the aratinga conures such as the sun and jenday.

A final recommendation would be the pionus, which avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, my "Birds for Dummies" co-author, calls "the poster child for the underappreciated parrots." Pionus parrots are generally quiet and gentle.

A bonus: All these birds are considerably less to purchase then their flashier, noisier relatives, with prices in the low hundreds of dollars, compared to more than a thousand for some of the larger parrots. What a bargain!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Sometimes the columns just write themselves, like this one, which was born at 2 a.m. in an exam room of the emergency veterinary clinic, while I waited for the staff to return with good news and my sweet old dog, Andy.

I got both soon enough.

Andy's problems had started some 90 minutes earlier, when he woke me up with the sound of his vomiting. Dogs barf (lots), so the first couple of hurls didn't concern me. But after 20 minutes went by and Andy was still at it, I became very worried. Pancreatitis, perhaps? I knew how deadly that could be, especially with a 14-year-old dog. Could it be what the veterinarians call "garbage-pail gastritis" -- a bad tummy ache? We were soon on our way to find out.

His blood work turned out fine, so the veterinarian gave the old boy some fluids --- dehydration is always a concern -- and sent us on our way. She figured he probably ate something he shouldn't have, and a couple of days on a bland diet would set him right. I happily paid the bill and drove Andy home. Maybe I'd overreacted, but I always figure I'd rather pay to know my dog's OK than to find out later that he wasn't.

It's often hard to decide what's worth worrying about and what can wait until you can get your pet in during regular -- and less expensive -- hospital hours. I've spent enough time in emergency clinics to know that sometimes people waste their money through lack of knowledge, bringing pets in for such things as worms. (One woman was convinced the worm was a piece of her cat's intestines.) Other folks take too lightly such things as vomiting, which can be a sign of something deadly serious.

Anything is worth a call to the veterinarian if you're not sure, but some things definitely require urgent attention. Among them:

-- Seizure, fainting or collapse;

-- Eye injury, no matter how mild;

-- Vomiting or diarrhea, anything more than two or three times within an hour or so;

-- Allergic reaction, such as swelling around the face or hives;

-- Any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, snail or rodent bait, or human medication;

-- Snakebite;

-- Thermal stress, a pet that has been too cold or too hot;

-- Any wound that's open and bleeding, or any animal bite;

-- Traumatic injury, such as being hit by a car;

-- Breathing problems, including chronic coughing or near drowning;

-- Straining to urinate or defecate;

Sometimes an animal may seem to be fine, such as after being hit by a car. But the story inside may be quite different, with internal injuries that need immediate veterinary attention. Any delay can cost your pet his life.

Most everything else can wait until morning, but here I must add a plea on your pet's behalf: Just because something CAN wait, doesn't mean it SHOULD wait. If your pet's in pain, take him in. You know he'd do the same for you. And remember: When in doubt, call, no matter the time of day or night.

A final note on veterinary emergencies: Do you know where to go if you have one? Check with your veterinarian to see if the hospital is open 24 hours a day, or if staff is always on call in case of an emergency. If your veterinarian does not offer after-hours care, the hospital usually works with one that does. Learn the location of the nearest emergency-care center, and put the phone number in a place where you can find it. The last thing you need to be doing with a sick pet at 2 a.m. is trying to find the phone book.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Humane Society of the United States is behind the slick Animal Channel Web site (www.animalchannel.net), and it's as good a collection of animal news as you'll find anywhere. The site is also big on interactivity, with polls and discussion areas, as well as audio and video features that you can play on your computer with Real Audio software. The video stories range from the serious (the grim lives of dogs on Native American reservations) to the upbeat (a feature on driving across country with three dogs). A lot of this site will be difficult for people who don't have the fastest of Internet connections, but even without the audio and video, it's a stop on the Web that should be visited again and again.

THE SCOOP

It's not very often that I'll run across a pet hazard I haven't warned about before, but I've got a new one, thanks to a recent edition of the magazine Cat Fancy. The danger: Dumpsters. The magazine reports that open Dumpsters -- especially behind restaurants -- are a magnet for wandering cats, who climb in to feast off what has been thrown away. The problem comes when the trash is collected, and the cats are hurled into trucks and are crushed when the compacting mechanism is turned on. The solution is an easy one: Keep the lids down on all Dumpsters. Thanks to Cat Fancy for bringing this hazard to light.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our boxer, Elvis, has the awful habit of taking off if he finds himself outside without a leash. This happens more times than I like to think about, since our kids aren't exactly careful about closing doors or gates all the way. Elvis has led me on many chases, including one last week in 100-degree weather that went on for blocks. I finally cornered him, or he'd still be running. He doesn't pay the slightest attention to my calling him; he just wants to run. What can I do? -- D.R., via e-mail

A: Maybe your dog is afraid to come to you. Do you punish your dog when you finally catch him? Punishing your pet is a good way of making sure the next time he gets loose he'll run farther, faster. Being reunited with you should be a positive experience. Never, ever punish a dog for coming to you or for failing to come.

If you're not punishing him, perhaps your dog really doesn't understand what you want. Few people practice the "come" command enough -- or at all. You probably use "sit" a half-dozen times a day, just around the house, but you probably never use "come."

Be fair: Ask yourself if your dog really understands what's expected of him. Most dogs don't. Or maybe your dog doesn't see why he should listen to you. Many dogs learn that what you want is only one of the factors that go into his deciding what he's going to do. A dog who knows what's expected of him and respects you is going to mind you. A dog who thinks you're a dope who couldn't catch a bus is going to treat you like the fool he thinks you are. What a fun game you're playing together!

If the problems are training and respect, you can fix them both together. Train your dog, work with your dog, and the respect will follow. Teach your dog the "come" command in increments, on a standard 6-foot leash, on progressively longer and lighter lines, and with lots of positive reinforcement. Practice, not just in formal sessions but in everyday life.

Make a game of it: Put your dog on "stay" in part of the house and call him to you from around a corner -- or hide! (The kids will love this one.) And sharpen up all your dog's manners, because they help reinforce your role as leader. Get the help of a trainer if you just don't seem to be getting anywhere.

In the meantime, there are a couple of tricks you can use to catch him. Try to sweet-talk him in with a kneeling, open-arms stance; or run away from him, enticing him to follow -- the chase instinct is very strong in most dogs. Another strategy is to use a command he knows well, like "sit." Once he's planted, you can take him by the collar, with lots of praise.

Another tip: Take the car. The dog who loves car rides -- and that's most of them -- will often jump right in if you get close and open the car door.

Q: I know some big parrots can live 70 years or more. What about the little guys? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: Even little guys can be with you for a long time, with proper care and nutrition. Budgies can make it into their teens and beyond, as can lovebirds, parrotlets and cockatiels. Medium-sized parrots, such as Senegals and conures, can be expected to be around 20 to 40 years.

It needs to be noted, however, that for most birds there's a huge gap between the life span they're capable of enjoying and the years they actually have on this Earth. A lot of the difference is in nutrition. Parrots who are fed an all-seed diet are eating the equivalent of junk food, and that's going to catch up with them before too long. A better plan: a core diet of pellets, supplemented by fruits and vegetables.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600