When it comes to keeping bird cages clean, you'll find plenty of people at the extremes: There are folks who wait until the mess is spilling over the lip of the cage, and folks who instantly sterilize every toy, perch or food dish their birds set foot on.

The first group by far outnumbers the latter. But it's interesting that while those who tolerate mess are putting their birds at risk, those who never met anything they didn't want to sterilize are doing far more than they actually need to for optimum bird care.

Cleaning up after birds is a constant battle, but getting yourself into a routine makes it easier to cope. The good news is that a few minutes a day is all it takes.

Every morning and evening you should replace soiled cage liners. You might find it easier to do this chore after you've been up for a while, so your bird has a chance to get her big morning poop out of the way. Putting newspapers both above and below the grid at the bottom of the cage makes cleaning as you go easier. You can put a few layers at the base of the cage and remove layer by layer throughout the day whenever droppings appear. If you don't want to put newspapers above the grid, you can mist the bars with nonstick cooking spray -- not when your bird is nearby, though -- to help keep droppings from sticking.

You should also change food bowls and water bowls (or bottles) twice a day. Some birds get food or even droppings in their bowls, and you need to constantly check for bowls that need cleaning. If you use a water bottle with your bird, check every morning to ensure that it's not clogged by pressing the ball with your finger. (Birds can become seriously dehydrated very quickly.)

Birds usually prefer to eat after dawn and near dusk, so these are great times to introduce fresh fruits and vegetables -- and remove the leftovers before you go to work or bed. Leftover pelleted foods should be discarded every morning, and replaced with fresh.

Finish off your twice-daily routine by using your cleaning solution and paper towels, and use a handheld vacuum to clean up any other messes in the vicinity. And remember: Your dishwasher is a great tool for cleaning everything from perches to dishes to toys.

While daily attention will keep things pretty clean, you'll need to do a big scrub on a regular basis -- walls, floors, cage and all its contents. How often depends on your bird: Big birds are generally messier, if for no reason than sheer volume of droppings. Some species are really mess-makers too, such as the lories and lorikeets.

If your bird's really good at mess-making, you'll need to do the big clean on a weekly basis. Neater (and usually smaller) species can usually get by on a monthly scrub-down, provided, of course, you're religious about your daily routines. And remove, clean and replace dirty toys on an ongoing basis.

For the big clean, scrub the cage with soap and water, then rinse well in plain water. Soak everything you can't fit into the dishwasher -- big perches, dropping tray and so on -- in a solution of a half-cup bleach to a gallon of water (a bathtub's a good place for soaking) and then leave everything out to air-dry in the sun before setting it in place and putting your bird back in it. If you have a cage that's encrusted with droppings, you may find it easier to take it to a car wash than to scrub it clean. The high-pressure hoses at the do-it-yourself washes will help knock off the mess, but you'll still have to soap it up and rinse it well before you're done.

Cleaning is part of life with birds, and it's not the best part, to be sure. But if you get into the habit of cleaning as you go, you'll find it's not so bad.

PETS ON THE WEB

What does the Munchkin cat have in common with the Dandie Dinmont terrier? They are the only breeds of animal I can think of that are named after fictional characters. The terrier has been around long enough that hardly anyone can remember who Dandie Dinmont was, but the Munchkins of Oz fame are still going strong. So, too, are the cats they were named after, short-legged cuties that caused quite a storm when people started breeding to reproduce the mutation that created them. The Web site of the Get Down Munchkin breed club (www.ticastephens.org/munchkin.htm) offers an introduction to the breed, with plenty of pictures and links to other Munchkin sites.

THE SCOOP

If you live in an area where your pets might come in contact with skunks, raccoons or other wildlife, they are at risk for exposure to the deadly disease of rabies -- and that means you and the other two-legged members of your family are, too. Make sure to keep all your pets (cats, too) up to date on their rabies vaccinations. You just can't be too careful where rabies is concerned. Dogs are generally vaccinated at the age of 16 weeks, then again in a year, and at three-year intervals after that. Regulations vary, however, so talk to your veterinarian about what the law requires in your area.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My mother sent me your article about

de-skunking your pet. It was chemist Paul Krebaum's recipe of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda and soap.

Well, it works. It was wonderful to be able to welcome the dog back into the house after the spraying and then the bath. I've sent the recipe to relatives and a friend. I plan to send it to the local greyhound enthusiasts who are always passing along "doggie tips." Thanks to Krebaum, to you and to my mom. -- L.V., via e-mail

A: Every day since that column ran, I've received mail either asking for the recipe again or thanking me for publishing it in the first place. I am blissfully happy to report that I have not once had to try Paul Krebaum's recipe -- and I certainly hope the situation remains that way.

This seems a good time to offer up the magic cure again, for those whose dogs have just been skunked or will be skunked soon:

Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (available from any drugstore), 1/4 cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate for you science types) and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Rinse thoroughly with tap water.

Now remember, you must mix the ingredients fresh each time, because the chemical reaction that occurs when everything gets together will burst any container you put it in. For best results, apply the concoction immediately, while it's furiously bubbling.

While you can't keep the ingredients premixed, you probably ought to keep them on hand if you're in an area where skunks are common. Every minute with a skunked dog is one too many.

Q: On our walk the other night, my Lab mix came across a rattlesnake and was extremely interested in it. I was able to get her away from it and back on leash before she could be bitten, but I'm afraid to take her there again. How can I teach her to leave snakes alone?

A: My area had huge flooding problems a few years back, and after the river settled just beneath the lip of the levee, I decided to go look at the mess with one of my dogs.

I parked the car, and we hiked to the top of the levee, the dog running around exploring all the interesting smells. I was looking in shock at the scene -- uprooted trees tossed about like sticks -- when I heard the telltale sound of a rattler. I don't know how I could have missed it, but I realized the levee was covered with snakes, all trying to warm up after their own flood ordeal. I consider myself very lucky that both the dog and I got out of there unbitten. Thank heavens he was well-trained enough to return on my command.

Dogs can be trained to avoid snakes, and should be, if you're regularly in an area where you run across them. Hunting-dog trainers use an electric collar and captive snakes to teach this life-saving lesson. The dogs are given a shock when they show an interest in getting close to the reptile.

This training is usually set up in clinics so several dogs can be taught over the course of a day. Costs are usually less than $50. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a hunting-dog trainer in your area. A store that caters to hunters will probably also be able to point you in the right direction.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Tolerance for mess is a good thing when you share your life with a bird. If you're uptight about things being out of place, about dust, about food crumbs and, especially, about bird poop, you're going to have a hard time enjoying your pet.

Dogs are messy. Children are messy. Even cats have been known to leave the odd hair -- or hairball -- about. But birds ... oh my, are they slobs! Food, feathers, poop: You name it, they fling it far and wide. Little birds are quite capable of making a big mess, but big birds are really talented at it.

But tolerance for mess is a good thing only to a point. Cleaning isn't just about neatness -- it's also about health. Clean, fresh food and water are essential to your bird, and so, too, is keeping his environment as free as possible of bacteria, fungus and molds, all of which can lead to disease.

Cleaning up after birds requires constant effort, but it's not hard once you get the hang of it. Put together a collection of bird-friendly cleaning supplies just for your pet. Here's a list of goods every bird owner should have.

-- Newspapers. You'll be going through a lot of newspaper, so if you don't subscribe to your local paper for your own sake, do so for your bird's. Another option: Some papers sell the end of newsprint rolls, offering an inexpensive, ink-free alternative to old newspapers.

-- Cloth towels. Make a collection of "bird towels" -- faded or worn towels you're cycling out of your own linen closet. The auto section of discount stores is a good source for inexpensive, plain terry towels; thrift stores and garage sales are another. Cloth towels are great for laying over clothing, and for providing solid footing on bird-safe exploration areas. Take them out of rotation when they get so frayed that a bird could catch a toe. Relegate these towels for drying off wet dogs or muddy feet, but don't let them near your bird.

-- Paper towels. Keep a roll handy at all times, and consider installing a hanger or using one of those vertical towel-holders. Buying in bulk is a good idea with paper towels because you'll go through them very quickly.

-- Spray bottle with cleaning solution. Since birds are sensitive to so many fumes, skip the ammonia, pine solutions or any other strong cleaners. Simple soap and water will do for everyday touch-ups, although you might also consider products developed just for bird poop.

-- Handheld vacuum. Buy one just for your bird's room and mount it close to the cage so you can always find it when the feathers fly.

-- Mat for under the cage. The heavy, clear plastic mats intended for under desk chairs and sold at office-supply stores will keep most of the gunk off your floor --especially important if your flooring is carpet.

-- Hamper. For convenience, keep the bird towels separate from the others in the household by using a hamper. That way, you can hold them in one place until you have a load for the washer. Put the hamper near the cage for maximum convenience.

-- Trash bin. Again, place it right by the cage. Every time you change the cage lining, you won't have to carry it around. Just lean over and put it in the trash.

-- Old T-shirts. Parrots love to nip little holes in cloth, even if the cloth is part of the shirt on your back. Even if you're careful to keep a towel over your clothes when playing with your bird, poop happens, and you're going to get it on your clothes eventually. Wearing clothes you can change when you need to and don't mind getting dirty is a good deal.

-- Scrub brushes and bleach. Not necessary for everyday use, but you'll need both for regular in-depth cleaning.

In the next column I'll offer some tips on using these tools to make cleaning easier, what you need to clean, how to do it, and how often.

THE SCOOP

I have a stainless steel pet bowl I bought for my very first dog more than 22 years ago. I still use it every day to water the dogs I have now. Stainless steel bowls offer lifelong quality: They're durable and chew-proof, and they sterilize wonderfully in the dishwasher. "Crock"-style bowls of high-impact plastic are another good choice, with the added benefit of offering the choice of colors. Both stainless steel and high-impact plastic bowls come in sizes to suit pets from mice and hamsters to parrots to the largest dogs. They're a great investment for the life of your pet.

PETS ON THE WEB

Sure, it's a come-on, but it's a good one. The pet-supply catalog retailer Doctors Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com) will give you a free pet name-tag just for visiting and filling out the form. I ordered a red plastic heart (the company offers lots of choices of color and shape, in plastic or metal), and I was surprised to see it was of pretty decent quality. The tag came packaged with the latest catalog, in which I promptly found something to order. Oh well. If you've more willpower than I do, you'll be fine. The company's slick Web site does offer plenty of shopping opportunities, but it also has a fair amount of good information on caring for a cat or dog.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I've got another suggestion about introducing cats. One little trick that sometimes works (and this only counts if people groom their cats) is that I will brush the resident cat and then the new cat without cleaning out the brush between, then back to the resident cat and vice versa. This way it seems like the new cat doesn't smell quite so "new." I figure it is always worth a try. Thanks for all of the great information. -- P.G., via e-mail

A: All these little tricks we try to help cats get along! Cats are so territorial, and you're right that anything to help one cat smell familiar to another is well worth trying. Still, the most important factor in introducing cats is to let them warm up to each other in their own time -- you just can't rush it. Separate parts of the house, separate bowls, toys, cat trees and litter boxes are a must, and some cats may never share.

That said, it's often worth the trouble to add a cat -- for your cat's sake as much as for your own. At a recent doctor's appointment, I spent a few minutes trying to help him sort out a problem with his indoor cat. My doctor works long hours, and when he's home, his cat won't leave him alone. My diagnosis: lonely, bored cat. Prescription: more toys, more playtime together -- and another cat.

The doctor and I did eventually get around to the reason I was there, by the way, but only after solving the cat problem. Any cat would agree we had our priorities right.

Q: This cat showed up one day, and my daughter gave him a can of tuna. Needless to say, he has adopted her. This cat is a male, and he is probably about 2 years old. He is not neutered. Can we have this cat neutered at his age, and he will not spray any more? My neighbor says that if cats are not neutered by the time they are a year old, they can still spray after being neutered. -- N.F., via e-mail

A: Your daughter's new companion most certainly can be neutered, and the sooner the better. The health benefits of the surgery cannot be argued, and neutered cats make better pets since they're not spending all their energy thinking about mating.

While there are no guarantees with a cat who's sexually mature, there's a good possibility the urine-spraying -- a territory-marking behavior -- will diminish or even disappear after the surgery. Fighting and roaming should also diminish, which is good news for the cat, and for your daughter's budget for veterinary care.

Neutering is a very common and safe procedure. The cat's testicles will be removed through incisions in the scrotum. After-care normally involves keeping an eye on the cat, and making sure the area stays clean and dry. Your veterinarian may recommend keeping the cat inside, and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually occurs within three to five days.

We're in the height of kitten season now, which offers the best reason of all to have this cat neutered: to remove the possibility of having him contribute to pet overpopulation.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My neighbors have kittens, a handful of playful, adorable and oh-so beautiful little kittens. They didn't mean to have these kittens, even though they're enjoying them immensely, and even though they really love cats.

Because my neighbors love cats, they got a couple of kittens last year, a sweet-natured calico girl and a rambunctious fluffy boy tuxedo cat. Time slipped away, the two kittens grew up, and now there are more of the same, four sweet-natured baby calicoes and one rambunctious young tuxedo male they've named Gino, after the neighbor -- that would be me -- who's trying to help them out of a jam.

We're spaying. We're neutering. Homes are being sought; arms are being twisted on people who really need one more cat. But it's a hard sell, these kittens, at this time of year. The "free to a good home" signs and ads are everywhere, and there just aren't enough good homes to go around. So far, no takers.

Love just isn't enough when it comes to this problem, something my neighbors now know all too well. All the spaying and neutering won't change the fact that five kittens were born who shouldn't have been, and who face the most uncertain of futures.

What's that old saying? "A stitch in time saves nine." Never so true as with spaying and neutering. Surgical intervention a few months ago -- a few stitches, well-timed -- wouldn't have saved nine, but five. Four calicos and a tuxedo who never should have been born. And who, in just a couple of months' time, will be able to add to the problem. Left alone, the babies will have more babies before winter comes again.

There are many good reasons to spay and neuter, and no good reasons not to. According to a 1995 survey by the American Animal Hospital Association, nearly 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. What do these people know that the others don't? How about this:

-- A neutered male is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and thus less likely to cost money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine everywhere to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet, because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

-- A cat of either sex who isn't altered can be obnoxious to live with. Reproduction is their reason for living, and if you don't let them follow their instincts, they drive you crazy trying to get out and crying endlessly.

Why would anyone choose not to spay or neuter? It just happens, of course. Many of the kittens born are just like those my neighbors are coping with: an "oops" litter, a one-time occurrence before a young cat gets spayed. But even one litter is too many, as any shelter worker will tell you.

My neighbors made a mistake in letting too much time pass before getting their kittens spayed and neutered. Don't make the same mistake. If you have a kitten or a cat who hasn't been to the veterinarian for this all-too-important surgery, pick up the phone today and make an appointment. Do it for little Gino and his calico sisters.

PETS ON THE WEB

VetMedCenter.com is the latest big player in the battle for the eyeballs of pet lovers, a kind of Web MD for animals. And a fine debut it is, with a well-organized site for consumers (and one for vets, which is inaccessible to consumers) that launched with an impressive amount of articles. There's plenty to chew on here in the areas of breed selection, preventive care and behavior.

THE SCOOP

Despite popular belief, it's usually better not to shave down longhaired dogs for the summer. Instead, increase air circulation with a good combing and brushing, making sure to remove the soft and fluffy undercoat. Left untouched, the undercoat can mat into a solid feltlike layer that can make a dog very uncomfortable. Thorough grooming on a regular basis will go far in keeping your pet healthy and comfortable. If your pet's coat is one big mat, however, you may need to get her clipped because de-matting may be too painful for her. Talk to a groomer about what's best for your pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 5-month-old golden retriever. He's such a darling except when he goes on a rampage, destroying plants and pulling clothes off the clothesline. I've given him toys to chew on, but he prefers "off limit" items. I have tried the soft approach, and I've tried yelling at him. Nothing helps. -- A.B., via e-mail

A: Welcome to puppyhood! As you've discovered, it doesn't help to yell at your pup. Instead, try these strategies:

-- Make sure your pup gets lots of exercise. A tired pup is not only a happy pup, but also one who'd rather sleep than chew.

-- Limit your pup's options. You wouldn't let a toddler wander anywhere he wants, so don't let your pup. Close doors and use baby gates to keep him in a pup-proof area of the house, and supervise him outside.

-- Distract, redirect and praise. Having toys available isn't enough: A pup cannot instinctively tell the difference between what's OK to chew on and what's not. When you're supervising your pup, you'll be able to see quickly what trouble he's into. Distract him with a handclap, and then play with him with one of his toys. Don't forget to praise him when he plays with those things he's allowed to.

Remember that he's just a baby, and he needs you to teach him the rules of living in your home. Be patient, persistent, positive and consistent. You'll both get through this trying stage.

Q: You made a mistake in one of your answers (the question about the woman's dog barking all the time). You said that poodles, along with terriers and shelties, were bad dogs to have because of barking.

I currently own a toy poodle, and she never barks. I know what you're thinking, a rare case, but I had a toy poodle before her when I was younger, and she didn't bark either. I think that it just goes back to how you train your dog.

What makes me upset is that there are people like you who are giving the breed a bad name. When I tell people that I have two poodles, they think the same thing. But when they meet them, they quickly change their minds. They even consider getting themselves one.

So in light of your mistake, I would like to have you do a retraction on including poodles in your bad rap. Maybe you should own the breed before you judge them. -- P.J., via e-mail

A: I grew up with a poodle, and he was the most serious nonstop barker I have ever known. He was also one of the brightest, funniest dogs ever, my absolute best pal. I adored him!

Breed attributes are neither "good" nor "bad," but they need to be acknowledged and considered when choosing a dog. Chances are that someone who is exceptionally sensitive to noise isn't going to enjoy living with a breed with a higher-than-average tendency to bark, like the poodle. That's not a "bad rap" -- it's a fact.

People need to know that German shepherds shed constantly, that Dalmatians have enough energy for at least two dogs, that Newfoundlands drool and French bulldogs snore. And that poodles, shelties and many terriers bark. Lots. The fact that all these breeds have their fanciers shows that people are willing to put up with a lot because of what they get in return. And in the case of the poodle, you're right: They've got a lot to offer.

Dogs often end up homeless because people didn't do their homework. They fell in love with the "look" of a breed or the "adorability quotient" of a puppy, and didn't consider what it would be like to live with a dog for years. The more information -- good and bad -- before you adopt, the better it will be for both you and your dog.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600