Tolerance for mess is a good thing when you share your life with a bird. If you're uptight about things being out of place, about dust, about food crumbs and, especially, about bird poop, you're going to have a hard time enjoying your pet.

Dogs are messy. Children are messy. Even cats have been known to leave the odd hair -- or hairball -- about. But birds ... oh my, are they slobs! Food, feathers, poop: You name it, they fling it far and wide. Little birds are quite capable of making a big mess, but big birds are really talented at it.

But tolerance for mess is a good thing only to a point. Cleaning isn't just about neatness -- it's also about health. Clean, fresh food and water are essential to your bird, and so, too, is keeping his environment as free as possible of bacteria, fungus and molds, all of which can lead to disease.

Cleaning up after birds requires constant effort, but it's not hard once you get the hang of it. Put together a collection of bird-friendly cleaning supplies just for your pet. Here's a list of goods every bird owner should have.

-- Newspapers. You'll be going through a lot of newspaper, so if you don't subscribe to your local paper for your own sake, do so for your bird's. Another option: Some papers sell the end of newsprint rolls, offering an inexpensive, ink-free alternative to old newspapers.

-- Cloth towels. Make a collection of "bird towels" -- faded or worn towels you're cycling out of your own linen closet. The auto section of discount stores is a good source for inexpensive, plain terry towels; thrift stores and garage sales are another. Cloth towels are great for laying over clothing, and for providing solid footing on bird-safe exploration areas. Take them out of rotation when they get so frayed that a bird could catch a toe. Relegate these towels for drying off wet dogs or muddy feet, but don't let them near your bird.

-- Paper towels. Keep a roll handy at all times, and consider installing a hanger or using one of those vertical towel-holders. Buying in bulk is a good idea with paper towels because you'll go through them very quickly.

-- Spray bottle with cleaning solution. Since birds are sensitive to so many fumes, skip the ammonia, pine solutions or any other strong cleaners. Simple soap and water will do for everyday touch-ups, although you might also consider products developed just for bird poop.

-- Handheld vacuum. Buy one just for your bird's room and mount it close to the cage so you can always find it when the feathers fly.

-- Mat for under the cage. The heavy, clear plastic mats intended for under desk chairs and sold at office-supply stores will keep most of the gunk off your floor --especially important if your flooring is carpet.

-- Hamper. For convenience, keep the bird towels separate from the others in the household by using a hamper. That way, you can hold them in one place until you have a load for the washer. Put the hamper near the cage for maximum convenience.

-- Trash bin. Again, place it right by the cage. Every time you change the cage lining, you won't have to carry it around. Just lean over and put it in the trash.

-- Old T-shirts. Parrots love to nip little holes in cloth, even if the cloth is part of the shirt on your back. Even if you're careful to keep a towel over your clothes when playing with your bird, poop happens, and you're going to get it on your clothes eventually. Wearing clothes you can change when you need to and don't mind getting dirty is a good deal.

-- Scrub brushes and bleach. Not necessary for everyday use, but you'll need both for regular in-depth cleaning.

In the next column I'll offer some tips on using these tools to make cleaning easier, what you need to clean, how to do it, and how often.

THE SCOOP

I have a stainless steel pet bowl I bought for my very first dog more than 22 years ago. I still use it every day to water the dogs I have now. Stainless steel bowls offer lifelong quality: They're durable and chew-proof, and they sterilize wonderfully in the dishwasher. "Crock"-style bowls of high-impact plastic are another good choice, with the added benefit of offering the choice of colors. Both stainless steel and high-impact plastic bowls come in sizes to suit pets from mice and hamsters to parrots to the largest dogs. They're a great investment for the life of your pet.

PETS ON THE WEB

Sure, it's a come-on, but it's a good one. The pet-supply catalog retailer Doctors Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com) will give you a free pet name-tag just for visiting and filling out the form. I ordered a red plastic heart (the company offers lots of choices of color and shape, in plastic or metal), and I was surprised to see it was of pretty decent quality. The tag came packaged with the latest catalog, in which I promptly found something to order. Oh well. If you've more willpower than I do, you'll be fine. The company's slick Web site does offer plenty of shopping opportunities, but it also has a fair amount of good information on caring for a cat or dog.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I've got another suggestion about introducing cats. One little trick that sometimes works (and this only counts if people groom their cats) is that I will brush the resident cat and then the new cat without cleaning out the brush between, then back to the resident cat and vice versa. This way it seems like the new cat doesn't smell quite so "new." I figure it is always worth a try. Thanks for all of the great information. -- P.G., via e-mail

A: All these little tricks we try to help cats get along! Cats are so territorial, and you're right that anything to help one cat smell familiar to another is well worth trying. Still, the most important factor in introducing cats is to let them warm up to each other in their own time -- you just can't rush it. Separate parts of the house, separate bowls, toys, cat trees and litter boxes are a must, and some cats may never share.

That said, it's often worth the trouble to add a cat -- for your cat's sake as much as for your own. At a recent doctor's appointment, I spent a few minutes trying to help him sort out a problem with his indoor cat. My doctor works long hours, and when he's home, his cat won't leave him alone. My diagnosis: lonely, bored cat. Prescription: more toys, more playtime together -- and another cat.

The doctor and I did eventually get around to the reason I was there, by the way, but only after solving the cat problem. Any cat would agree we had our priorities right.

Q: This cat showed up one day, and my daughter gave him a can of tuna. Needless to say, he has adopted her. This cat is a male, and he is probably about 2 years old. He is not neutered. Can we have this cat neutered at his age, and he will not spray any more? My neighbor says that if cats are not neutered by the time they are a year old, they can still spray after being neutered. -- N.F., via e-mail

A: Your daughter's new companion most certainly can be neutered, and the sooner the better. The health benefits of the surgery cannot be argued, and neutered cats make better pets since they're not spending all their energy thinking about mating.

While there are no guarantees with a cat who's sexually mature, there's a good possibility the urine-spraying -- a territory-marking behavior -- will diminish or even disappear after the surgery. Fighting and roaming should also diminish, which is good news for the cat, and for your daughter's budget for veterinary care.

Neutering is a very common and safe procedure. The cat's testicles will be removed through incisions in the scrotum. After-care normally involves keeping an eye on the cat, and making sure the area stays clean and dry. Your veterinarian may recommend keeping the cat inside, and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually occurs within three to five days.

We're in the height of kitten season now, which offers the best reason of all to have this cat neutered: to remove the possibility of having him contribute to pet overpopulation.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My neighbors have kittens, a handful of playful, adorable and oh-so beautiful little kittens. They didn't mean to have these kittens, even though they're enjoying them immensely, and even though they really love cats.

Because my neighbors love cats, they got a couple of kittens last year, a sweet-natured calico girl and a rambunctious fluffy boy tuxedo cat. Time slipped away, the two kittens grew up, and now there are more of the same, four sweet-natured baby calicoes and one rambunctious young tuxedo male they've named Gino, after the neighbor -- that would be me -- who's trying to help them out of a jam.

We're spaying. We're neutering. Homes are being sought; arms are being twisted on people who really need one more cat. But it's a hard sell, these kittens, at this time of year. The "free to a good home" signs and ads are everywhere, and there just aren't enough good homes to go around. So far, no takers.

Love just isn't enough when it comes to this problem, something my neighbors now know all too well. All the spaying and neutering won't change the fact that five kittens were born who shouldn't have been, and who face the most uncertain of futures.

What's that old saying? "A stitch in time saves nine." Never so true as with spaying and neutering. Surgical intervention a few months ago -- a few stitches, well-timed -- wouldn't have saved nine, but five. Four calicos and a tuxedo who never should have been born. And who, in just a couple of months' time, will be able to add to the problem. Left alone, the babies will have more babies before winter comes again.

There are many good reasons to spay and neuter, and no good reasons not to. According to a 1995 survey by the American Animal Hospital Association, nearly 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. What do these people know that the others don't? How about this:

-- A neutered male is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and thus less likely to cost money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine everywhere to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet, because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

-- A cat of either sex who isn't altered can be obnoxious to live with. Reproduction is their reason for living, and if you don't let them follow their instincts, they drive you crazy trying to get out and crying endlessly.

Why would anyone choose not to spay or neuter? It just happens, of course. Many of the kittens born are just like those my neighbors are coping with: an "oops" litter, a one-time occurrence before a young cat gets spayed. But even one litter is too many, as any shelter worker will tell you.

My neighbors made a mistake in letting too much time pass before getting their kittens spayed and neutered. Don't make the same mistake. If you have a kitten or a cat who hasn't been to the veterinarian for this all-too-important surgery, pick up the phone today and make an appointment. Do it for little Gino and his calico sisters.

PETS ON THE WEB

VetMedCenter.com is the latest big player in the battle for the eyeballs of pet lovers, a kind of Web MD for animals. And a fine debut it is, with a well-organized site for consumers (and one for vets, which is inaccessible to consumers) that launched with an impressive amount of articles. There's plenty to chew on here in the areas of breed selection, preventive care and behavior.

THE SCOOP

Despite popular belief, it's usually better not to shave down longhaired dogs for the summer. Instead, increase air circulation with a good combing and brushing, making sure to remove the soft and fluffy undercoat. Left untouched, the undercoat can mat into a solid feltlike layer that can make a dog very uncomfortable. Thorough grooming on a regular basis will go far in keeping your pet healthy and comfortable. If your pet's coat is one big mat, however, you may need to get her clipped because de-matting may be too painful for her. Talk to a groomer about what's best for your pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 5-month-old golden retriever. He's such a darling except when he goes on a rampage, destroying plants and pulling clothes off the clothesline. I've given him toys to chew on, but he prefers "off limit" items. I have tried the soft approach, and I've tried yelling at him. Nothing helps. -- A.B., via e-mail

A: Welcome to puppyhood! As you've discovered, it doesn't help to yell at your pup. Instead, try these strategies:

-- Make sure your pup gets lots of exercise. A tired pup is not only a happy pup, but also one who'd rather sleep than chew.

-- Limit your pup's options. You wouldn't let a toddler wander anywhere he wants, so don't let your pup. Close doors and use baby gates to keep him in a pup-proof area of the house, and supervise him outside.

-- Distract, redirect and praise. Having toys available isn't enough: A pup cannot instinctively tell the difference between what's OK to chew on and what's not. When you're supervising your pup, you'll be able to see quickly what trouble he's into. Distract him with a handclap, and then play with him with one of his toys. Don't forget to praise him when he plays with those things he's allowed to.

Remember that he's just a baby, and he needs you to teach him the rules of living in your home. Be patient, persistent, positive and consistent. You'll both get through this trying stage.

Q: You made a mistake in one of your answers (the question about the woman's dog barking all the time). You said that poodles, along with terriers and shelties, were bad dogs to have because of barking.

I currently own a toy poodle, and she never barks. I know what you're thinking, a rare case, but I had a toy poodle before her when I was younger, and she didn't bark either. I think that it just goes back to how you train your dog.

What makes me upset is that there are people like you who are giving the breed a bad name. When I tell people that I have two poodles, they think the same thing. But when they meet them, they quickly change their minds. They even consider getting themselves one.

So in light of your mistake, I would like to have you do a retraction on including poodles in your bad rap. Maybe you should own the breed before you judge them. -- P.J., via e-mail

A: I grew up with a poodle, and he was the most serious nonstop barker I have ever known. He was also one of the brightest, funniest dogs ever, my absolute best pal. I adored him!

Breed attributes are neither "good" nor "bad," but they need to be acknowledged and considered when choosing a dog. Chances are that someone who is exceptionally sensitive to noise isn't going to enjoy living with a breed with a higher-than-average tendency to bark, like the poodle. That's not a "bad rap" -- it's a fact.

People need to know that German shepherds shed constantly, that Dalmatians have enough energy for at least two dogs, that Newfoundlands drool and French bulldogs snore. And that poodles, shelties and many terriers bark. Lots. The fact that all these breeds have their fanciers shows that people are willing to put up with a lot because of what they get in return. And in the case of the poodle, you're right: They've got a lot to offer.

Dogs often end up homeless because people didn't do their homework. They fell in love with the "look" of a breed or the "adorability quotient" of a puppy, and didn't consider what it would be like to live with a dog for years. The more information -- good and bad -- before you adopt, the better it will be for both you and your dog.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The longest weekend I ever spent was in a veterinary emergency clinic over a three-day Fourth of July holiday weekend. The truly appalling procession of animals hit by cars, cut jumping through windows and knocked down by heat made an impression on me I've never forgotten.

Almost every animal I saw that weekend wouldn't have needed to be there if someone had been just a little more careful. If they hadn't taken the dog along to a hot, noisy holiday celebration; if they'd locked up the cat so she wouldn't run in terror under the wheels of the car.

The weekend was a blur, one critical case right after the other. X-rays, emergency surgery, IVs for heat stroke -– it never stopped until at last the fireworks ended. Most pets made it, thanks to the skill of the veterinarians and technicians, but too many didn't.

This year, the Fourth falls on a Tuesday, which means many people will be making a four-day celebration of it -- and that the folks in the emergency clinics are again in for a very rough time.

While the Fourth is no picnic for pets -– or vets -- it doesn't really have to be life-threatening. A few commonsense precautions on your part are all it takes to make the day pass safely for your pet.

First, make sure your pets are secure. Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards or enticing gaps at the baseline that could be opened up with a little digging? Fix them all. An anxious pet might be more determined about escape than usual. Better still, bring all your pets in and consider confining them to a small area like a crate or carrier -- especially if you're not staying home to keep an eye on things. (If you are going out, it's usually better to leave your pets securely behind.)

Always assume your pet may become lost and plan accordingly. Collars and tags are tickets home for lost pets; for insurance, add a microchip. Some people worry about the safety of collars on their cats, but one look at all the healthy, well-fed, obviously lost strays in any shelter will tell you that the asset of a collar and tag far outweighs any risks. A shelter worker I know says she's never seen a cat die from a snagged collar, but she's seen too many die because they didn't have a way to be reunited with their owners.

While you're planning for the worst, figure out where you'd go for a veterinary emergency. Does your veterinary hospital staff for around-the-clock emergency care? Will they arrange for on-call care? Find out what your veterinarian offers before you need to know, and be sure that if you might be heading to an emergency clinic, you know the phone number and the location.

Finally, if you've got a pet for whom the noise is terrifying, talk to your veterinarian about tranquilizers you can administer at home to take the edge off the worst of it for your pet. You can also try some holistic alternatives, such as the Rescue Remedy, which should be available at any health-food store.

With one nearly deaf dog and two field-breed retrievers who aren't the least concerned about loud noises, my Fourth of July promises to be an easy one. But even I take no chances: The dogs will be locked inside, and I know by heart the number of the nearest emergency clinic. Knowing my pets are protected makes the holiday corn and watermelon taste all the sweeter.

PETS ON THE WEB

Ferrets just keep growing in popularity, even in those few places where they're illegal, like California. And there's a reason for their popularity. Ferrets are small, affectionate and playful pets who keep their owners smiling. As with any pet, though, the key to successful ferret-keeping is making sure you're the right fit for a pet ferret, and then providing what your ferret needs to thrive. Ferret Central (www.ferretcentral.org) has the answer to any questions you could possibly have about ferrets -– and in several languages, to boot! The site is clean, information-packed and easy to navigate, with tons of links to explore.

THE SCOOP

Mistakes happen pretty easily when it comes to an animal who breeds as often and easily as the cat. And many is the person meaning to get the new kitten to the veterinarian who is suddenly surprised to find out that the half-grown baby now has babies of her own. This "oops" factor is why so many shelters are now insisting on spaying and neutering kittens before they're released, leaving nothing to chance.

If your cat has had kittens, don't delay before arranging a spay, or you may end up with a second litter. Cats can become pregnant again not long after delivering kittens, and before you know it, you'll have yet another litter on your hands. Kittens start weaning at three to four weeks, and that's a good time to call your veterinarian and make an appointment to spay the mom.

At eight weeks, you can spay and neuter the kittens, making sure they won't be adding any "oops" litters in their new homes.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I read your article on introducing cats. I volunteer at the Houston SPCA cattery. After reading an article in Cat Fancy magazine, I recommend putting butter or whipped cream near the nose and the back end of both cats. They then smell alike and will be more accepting of each other. They won't get sick from the butter or cream (perfume has been suggested by some, but I wouldn't want my own cat ingesting perfume). What do you think? -- C.K., via e-mail

A: You can try the same thing with the oil from a can of tuna. Yes, it does seem to help, but I'm not so sure the cats themselves are fooled. They're likely just busy licking off all that great-tasting goo.

Most cats will get along fine with a newcomer, but you must give them time -- lots of time, in some cases. Territorial negotiations can be delicate and drawn out among cats. Let them work it out, and don't force them together.

Despite the initial hissy fit many cats throw when faced with a new housemate, adding a second cat can be a good idea. Indoor cats, especially, get bored and lonely when left alone all day. The addition of a second cat will help with both problems.

Kittens are sometimes easier to introduce to an established cat, but don't rule out a good-natured adult. The more the merrier!

Q: Our 9-year-old daughter has a pair of lop-eared bunnies, Elise and Albert, and we weren't paying all that much attention to them. She is a responsible girl and takes good care of them, so we rarely checked on them out in the hutch my husband built. Now we have quite a few rabbits, since Elise gave birth a few days ago. The local pet shop will take the babies when they're older, but we don't want a repeat performance. Can Elise be spayed? And can Albert be neutered? – R.F., via e-mail

A: They answer to both questions is an emphatic yes. In the hands of a veterinarian with experience in performing surgery on rabbits, spaying and neutering are safe and relatively commonplace procedures. Altering your pets has benefits beyond birth control, as well. As in cats and dogs, altered rabbits make better pets and are healthier. Unneutered males spray, pick fights with other animals and can be nippy with people. Unspayed females are susceptible to various reproductive cancers.

For years any kind of surgery was avoided if at all possible in rabbits, because they didn't handle traditional anesthesia well. Recent advances in anethestic materials and techniques and in understanding the differences between rabbits and the more common cats and dogs have all contributed to making surgery much safer.

Make sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who routinely handles rabbits. If you don't know if he does -– ask! Don't be shy, either, about getting a referral to another veterinarian who is more experienced with these animals, because your rabbit's life could be at risk if you don't. The nonprofit House Rabbit Society maintains a list of rabbit-approved veterinarians on its Web site, at www.rabbit.org.

Your daughter is doing well by her rabbits from what you say, but honestly, she's a little young yet to be taking full responsibility for the care of a pet. For the sake of Elise and Albert, please check daily to make sure they're getting the care they need.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600