The longest weekend I ever spent was in a veterinary emergency clinic over a three-day Fourth of July holiday weekend. The truly appalling procession of animals hit by cars, cut jumping through windows and knocked down by heat made an impression on me I've never forgotten.

Almost every animal I saw that weekend wouldn't have needed to be there if someone had been just a little more careful. If they hadn't taken the dog along to a hot, noisy holiday celebration; if they'd locked up the cat so she wouldn't run in terror under the wheels of the car.

The weekend was a blur, one critical case right after the other. X-rays, emergency surgery, IVs for heat stroke -– it never stopped until at last the fireworks ended. Most pets made it, thanks to the skill of the veterinarians and technicians, but too many didn't.

This year, the Fourth falls on a Tuesday, which means many people will be making a four-day celebration of it -- and that the folks in the emergency clinics are again in for a very rough time.

While the Fourth is no picnic for pets -– or vets -- it doesn't really have to be life-threatening. A few commonsense precautions on your part are all it takes to make the day pass safely for your pet.

First, make sure your pets are secure. Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards or enticing gaps at the baseline that could be opened up with a little digging? Fix them all. An anxious pet might be more determined about escape than usual. Better still, bring all your pets in and consider confining them to a small area like a crate or carrier -- especially if you're not staying home to keep an eye on things. (If you are going out, it's usually better to leave your pets securely behind.)

Always assume your pet may become lost and plan accordingly. Collars and tags are tickets home for lost pets; for insurance, add a microchip. Some people worry about the safety of collars on their cats, but one look at all the healthy, well-fed, obviously lost strays in any shelter will tell you that the asset of a collar and tag far outweighs any risks. A shelter worker I know says she's never seen a cat die from a snagged collar, but she's seen too many die because they didn't have a way to be reunited with their owners.

While you're planning for the worst, figure out where you'd go for a veterinary emergency. Does your veterinary hospital staff for around-the-clock emergency care? Will they arrange for on-call care? Find out what your veterinarian offers before you need to know, and be sure that if you might be heading to an emergency clinic, you know the phone number and the location.

Finally, if you've got a pet for whom the noise is terrifying, talk to your veterinarian about tranquilizers you can administer at home to take the edge off the worst of it for your pet. You can also try some holistic alternatives, such as the Rescue Remedy, which should be available at any health-food store.

With one nearly deaf dog and two field-breed retrievers who aren't the least concerned about loud noises, my Fourth of July promises to be an easy one. But even I take no chances: The dogs will be locked inside, and I know by heart the number of the nearest emergency clinic. Knowing my pets are protected makes the holiday corn and watermelon taste all the sweeter.

PETS ON THE WEB

Ferrets just keep growing in popularity, even in those few places where they're illegal, like California. And there's a reason for their popularity. Ferrets are small, affectionate and playful pets who keep their owners smiling. As with any pet, though, the key to successful ferret-keeping is making sure you're the right fit for a pet ferret, and then providing what your ferret needs to thrive. Ferret Central (www.ferretcentral.org) has the answer to any questions you could possibly have about ferrets -– and in several languages, to boot! The site is clean, information-packed and easy to navigate, with tons of links to explore.

THE SCOOP

Mistakes happen pretty easily when it comes to an animal who breeds as often and easily as the cat. And many is the person meaning to get the new kitten to the veterinarian who is suddenly surprised to find out that the half-grown baby now has babies of her own. This "oops" factor is why so many shelters are now insisting on spaying and neutering kittens before they're released, leaving nothing to chance.

If your cat has had kittens, don't delay before arranging a spay, or you may end up with a second litter. Cats can become pregnant again not long after delivering kittens, and before you know it, you'll have yet another litter on your hands. Kittens start weaning at three to four weeks, and that's a good time to call your veterinarian and make an appointment to spay the mom.

At eight weeks, you can spay and neuter the kittens, making sure they won't be adding any "oops" litters in their new homes.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I read your article on introducing cats. I volunteer at the Houston SPCA cattery. After reading an article in Cat Fancy magazine, I recommend putting butter or whipped cream near the nose and the back end of both cats. They then smell alike and will be more accepting of each other. They won't get sick from the butter or cream (perfume has been suggested by some, but I wouldn't want my own cat ingesting perfume). What do you think? -- C.K., via e-mail

A: You can try the same thing with the oil from a can of tuna. Yes, it does seem to help, but I'm not so sure the cats themselves are fooled. They're likely just busy licking off all that great-tasting goo.

Most cats will get along fine with a newcomer, but you must give them time -- lots of time, in some cases. Territorial negotiations can be delicate and drawn out among cats. Let them work it out, and don't force them together.

Despite the initial hissy fit many cats throw when faced with a new housemate, adding a second cat can be a good idea. Indoor cats, especially, get bored and lonely when left alone all day. The addition of a second cat will help with both problems.

Kittens are sometimes easier to introduce to an established cat, but don't rule out a good-natured adult. The more the merrier!

Q: Our 9-year-old daughter has a pair of lop-eared bunnies, Elise and Albert, and we weren't paying all that much attention to them. She is a responsible girl and takes good care of them, so we rarely checked on them out in the hutch my husband built. Now we have quite a few rabbits, since Elise gave birth a few days ago. The local pet shop will take the babies when they're older, but we don't want a repeat performance. Can Elise be spayed? And can Albert be neutered? – R.F., via e-mail

A: They answer to both questions is an emphatic yes. In the hands of a veterinarian with experience in performing surgery on rabbits, spaying and neutering are safe and relatively commonplace procedures. Altering your pets has benefits beyond birth control, as well. As in cats and dogs, altered rabbits make better pets and are healthier. Unneutered males spray, pick fights with other animals and can be nippy with people. Unspayed females are susceptible to various reproductive cancers.

For years any kind of surgery was avoided if at all possible in rabbits, because they didn't handle traditional anesthesia well. Recent advances in anethestic materials and techniques and in understanding the differences between rabbits and the more common cats and dogs have all contributed to making surgery much safer.

Make sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who routinely handles rabbits. If you don't know if he does -– ask! Don't be shy, either, about getting a referral to another veterinarian who is more experienced with these animals, because your rabbit's life could be at risk if you don't. The nonprofit House Rabbit Society maintains a list of rabbit-approved veterinarians on its Web site, at www.rabbit.org.

Your daughter is doing well by her rabbits from what you say, but honestly, she's a little young yet to be taking full responsibility for the care of a pet. For the sake of Elise and Albert, please check daily to make sure they're getting the care they need.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

You can learn a lot about your cat by learning more about the tiger.

Find a documentary on the gorgeous wild cat. You're certain to be astonished at how much the cat purring in your lap reminds you of a tiger. The way the tiger walks, with understated elegance and always the promise of power. The way the tiger hunts, still and focused except for the tiniest twitch at the end of the tail.

Now, pay attention to how tigers let each other know where one animal's hunting turf ends and another begins.

They rub against things, they spray and they claw.

Admittedly, seeing a tiger do these things is a lot more dramatic than watching an 8-pound domesticated cat do them. A scent-marking head bump from a tiger may knock a person over. And as for the other two behaviors, you wouldn't even want to be around. If a tiger wants to leave a message, he stands up on his hind legs and digs his claws into a tree, putting deep slashes along with his scent on the hapless plant. And then, just to make the point a little more emphatic, he turns, facing away from the tree, raises his tail, and squirts a great blast of urine at it.

With no one to yell at him for doing these things to the corner of a couch or a pile of dirty laundry, he ambles off. His world smells the way he thinks it ought to, and he's content.

Now maybe you're beginning to see the problem. The very same things the tiger does to mark territory are natural behaviors for your cat, too. And yet you want your pet to abandon them entirely? We have news for you: It's just not possible. Nor is it fair.

Fixing feline behavior problems is like taming a tiger: You must work slowly to reshape your pet's natural behaviors in ways that you both can live with. Never hit your cat, and never let her think that any discipline is coming from you. Physical discipline is worse than meaningless to cats -- and it can make a situation even worse by making your cat stressed out and afraid of you. What works in cats is to make them believe that whatever they're doing wrong triggers an automatic response they don't like -- and that you have nothing to do with it as far as they can tell. The couch they used to enjoy clawing is now covered with something they don't like to touch. Every time they get on the counter a stream of water hits them in the fanny.

Reward your cat for good behavior with praise, with treats, with petting and with games. If your cat uses the scratching post instead of the couch, make sure that she knows you approve by playing with her, with a cat fishing pole or a toy on a string. Tell her that she's good for using the litter box, for eating her plants instead of yours, and for attacking her toys instead of your slippers. Your cat isn't born knowing the rules of living among humans, and if you make following the rules pleasant and reasonable, you have much better luck getting her to follow them.

Tigers don't have to learn how to live with people, but house cats do. A consistent, understanding and humane approach to behavior problems will go far in taming the tiger in your cat.

PETS ON THE WEB

When I first bought my house a decade ago, I was surprised and delighted to find out that my neighborhood was also home to a pair of wild parrots. Since conures are not native to Northern California -- or North America, for that matter -- it's a pretty good guess the birds were on the lam, either escaped or turned loose and finding the moderate climate to their liking. Feral parrots are not uncommon, and the birds are even considered a nuisance in some places.

One wild flock, though, has plenty of fans and its own Web site. The Wild Parrots of San Francisco's Telegraph Hill (www.wildparrots.com) documents the lives of a number of birds, mostly cherry-headed conures, who live free in one of the most expensive real estate markets in the country. A nice, clean site, with lots to read and see. Be sure to check out the link to caretaker Mark Bittner's site (http://sites.netscape.net/markbittner/index.htm), which documents the making of a film on the flock.

THE SCOOP

Teething is a difficult time for puppies and people both. For the little ones, chewing is a way to relieve the discomfort caused by the eruption of adult teeth. This is understandable, but still difficult to tolerate if that chewing is directed toward something like an expensive pair of shoes. Don't punish puppies for chewing. Instead, distract them with a noise (such as slapping your palm on a counter), and then offer them something acceptable to chew on. And don't forget to praise them for the switch!

Giving your puppy frozen marrow bones can soothe the discomfort, as can a Kong toy, stuffed with peanut butter and chilled. By teaching a puppy acceptable chewing, you're instilling important lessons for life. Adult dogs chew out of boredom and because it feels good. It's unfair to expect a dog not to chew, so giving your dog chew toys he knows are acceptable is a good compromise.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our dog will not shut up! We yell at her, and it doesn't help. She barks all day in the yard when we're gone, and the neighbors are complaining. What can we do? -- N.P., via e-mail

A: Dogs bark to express a variety of emotions: anxiety, boredom, territoriality, aggression, playfulness and hunger, to name a few.

Barking sessions can be triggered by certain conditions in the dog's environment. For example, a dog who barks a warning when strangers are near will bark constantly if one side of the fence in his yard separates his area from a well-traveled, public sidewalk. Likewise, an intelligent, high-energy dog, neglected and bored in a lonely back yard, often rids himself of that excess energy by indulging in barking sessions that can last for hours, day or night.

Breed characteristics factor in, as well. Anyone who dreams of the quiet life probably ought to avoid owning most terriers, poodles or shelties. You can train them to stop barking, but you can't train them not to start -- they'll yap at the slightest provocation.

Figure out the kind of barking your dog indulges in. Is he a fence-runner, trading insults with the dog on the other side of the back fence? Consider reworking the yard to deny him access to that activity. Is he a bored outside dog? Make him a part of your life, bring him in to the house, and make sure that the needs for physical and mental stimulation are being met. Another advantage of having him in the house: Many of the sounds that trigger barking are masked inside. (You can help this masking even further by leaving a radio on when you leave.)

Train him not to bark by teaching him the "quiet" or "enough" command. Allow him a bark or two -- let him get his point across -- and then say (don't yell) "enough" and put your hand over his muzzle. Praise him for stopping. If he's loose, you can also get the point across with a shot from a spray bottle: Allow him a bark or two, say "enough," squirt, and then praise him for stopping.

It's not a quick fix -- you still have to address the underlying problems of boredom, stress and inactivity -- but one kind of training collar offers real promise in fighting the battle of the bark. Citronella collars, which release a mist of harmless yet annoying spray when the dog barks, are widely available now and considered more humane than a "shock collar."

Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist in your area who can work with you on training your dog and changing his environment to calm the noise.

Q: Our cockatiel Henry has laid an egg, which was a big surprise because we thought she was a he (guess we'll have to call her Henrietta). Will it hatch? -- P.E., via e-mail

A: I'm guessing Henry/Henrietta isn't of the more common varieties of cockatiels, which are usually pretty easy to figure out when it comes to males and females. In the most common variety, the gray cockatiel, males have yellow faces and females have gray. The more unusual mutations can be difficult or impossible to sex on the basis of looks alone.

If your bird is an only bird, you shouldn't be making plans for hatching that egg. Without a male around, the egg is infertile, and you can just throw it away. Some birds won't stop laying, though, and can eventually make themselves ill. If your bird becomes one of these, you'll need to take her to an avian veterinarian for hormonal or even surgical intervention.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Andy marked his 14th birthday in what has become traditional in recent years: with a basket of cherry tomatoes and a prostate exam. The first part is what Andy would choose for himself -- the old sheltie is crazy for tomatoes -- but the latter was clearly my idea.

The look Andy gave me when our veterinarian snapped on the rubber glove would have taken out half the cats in the county, but I ignored it. His head-to-tail examination is exactly what I wanted for his birthday, a reassurance that the dog who has ruled my household for so long will be around for a few more years.

And besides, I do take just the smallest amount of glee in putting him through it. Seems only fair considering the dog usually gets more cards on his birthday than I do on mine.

Blood work, X-rays and more -- I walked out of the hospital a couple of hundred dollars lighter, but with a feeling that I've never seen money better spent. Andy came up normal, incredibly, aggressively normal for a dog of his age. The only glitch: Last year our veterinarian discovered a small heart murmur; this year it's slightly worse. But it hasn't diminished the quality of Andy's life, and hasn't done anything to alter the graceful path into old age for the handsome dog I long ago nicknamed "The Brat."

Andy is still a brat, bless his silver head. He no longer does battles with lawn sprinklers, and he and his longtime nemesis, the neighbor's ginger tabby, George, have long ago settled their differences. They just became too darn old to spend their days tormenting each other. With mail carriers, though, Andy remains vigilant, to a point. The dog barks if the mail carrier comes in the morning. In the afternoon, when Andy's napping, the man could step right over him and Andy wouldn't care.

Not that I'd ever take such a chance. Andy still has all of his teeth, after all.

He uses those teeth, too, on my socks and underwear. I frequently find both in the yard. The socks are salvageable; the underwear not. You'd think after all these years I'd learn to use a hamper. I never punish him, by the way. At his age, he gets away with everything.

Andy is such a presence that the retrievers, Benjamin and Heather, move to let him pass. Although nearly twice his size, they never try to steal food or toys from him, and they take care not to bump him. With each other they are very physical, playing in ways that have left me astonished that they've never broken skin or bones. With the old dog they are respectful.

I'd like to take credit for Andy's health and longevity, and I suppose I can for some of it. The dog has always had good nutrition, regular grooming, plenty of exercise, and an aggressive regimen of preventive health at my oh-so-patient veterinarian's, including regular dental cleanings (you should see the dog's teeth!). No doubt all this attention has had an impact, but I think Andy himself has had a larger one.

Andy has always done what he wanted, and pretty much had what he wanted, since the day he moved in with me. His interest in underwear aside, he has been the kind of dog who makes a trainer look brilliant, because Andy's so naturally well-mannered and trustworthy.

But in the end, I'm just the servant here. Filler of bowls, holder of leashes, brushes, plastic bags and dog treats, buyer of tomatoes and, sometimes, the driver who takes His Majesty to the veterinarian against his will.

Andy rules. The dog will go when he's good and ready. And I pray that time isn't soon.

THE SCOOP

Who'd have thought a shredder could almost take a dog's life? But it has happened, and it should make those of us who use these now-common appliances much more careful. Not just any dog was nearly killed, either: Recce, a border collie belonging to Stuart Mah of Florida, is one of the world's best in the sport of canine agility. The dog found something interesting about the shredder and lost nearly his entire tongue.

I'll admit to leaving my own shredder on "standby." But after hearing about Recce, I put it far under the table next to the desk, and now I unplug it when I'm not using it. As for Recce, he is now able to eat and drink again with his healed stump of a tongue (to the surprise of nearly everyone involved).

PETS ON THE WEB

Jane Hallander says she can communicate with animals. Not the way we do -- "Sit! Get off the couch" and so on -- but telepathically. With the help of her African grey parrot, Jing, Hallander claims to have found lost pets with a 65 percent rate of success, which in part she attributes to her ability to enlist wild crows and ravens in the search.

By now you are likely intrigued, or you're laughing and wondering if Hallander by any chance lives in California (she does). Either way, a visit to her modest Web site (http://home.netcom.com/(tilde)jing/index.html) is worthwhile. In addition to her writing on communicating with animals, Hallander has some good information on parrot behavior (she's also an avian behavior consultant), and some decent links add to the appeal.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We're looking to buy a yellow-naped Amazon parrot. We found a breeder who'll sell us one at a discount if we take it just after it has been hatched and hand-feed it ourselves. We've never done this, and we've never even had a parrot before. She says it's easy, though. What do you think? - H.J., via e-mail

A: I think you should pass, and find a breeder who wouldn't think of selling a baby bird that hasn't been fully weaned to a healthy adult diet.

While an experienced hand-feeder may find the task easy (rote, even), taking care of a baby bird is definitely not for beginners. Can I stress this further? How about this: My friend Dr. Brian Speer, a top avian specialist, once told me he is always dealing with frantic people who are losing their bird babies -- or who have killed them through improper hand-feeding. It's frighteningly easy to bungle the job, with tragic results.

Hand-feeding involves using a spoon or syringe to give formula to a baby bird at what starts out as two-hour intervals. The basics are the same as with human babies: Keep them warm, keep them clean, and feed them when they're hungry. Socialization is an essential part of the package, too, for young birds should be exposed to gentle handling and the sounds of a human household to make good pets.

When you factor in the risks, the trouble, and all those sleepless nights, hand-feeding your own bird isn't the bargain it may first appear to be. If you're thinking it's important for bonding, rest easy on that point as well. A healthy, well-socialized and fully weaned young bird will have no trouble at all bonding to you.

Q: I agree with you that most dogs don't get enough exercise and that the lack of exercise is at the root of many behavior problems. And yet I wish you would warn people that sometimes exercise can be dangerous. I cannot believe how often I see people running or biking with their dogs in the heat of the day. The dogs are in trouble, and their owners don't even know it! -- D.H., via e-mail

A: I'm happy to spread the word. I once was spending time at an emergency veterinary clinic when a young woman rushed in with a seriously ill Labrador. The dog was her grandmother's, and the young woman decided to take him Rollerblading while she was visiting -- not a good idea under any circumstances for an aging, sedentary and obese dog, but an even worse plan on a warm day.

The dog tried his best to keep up, and the young woman didn't recognize his glassy eyes and frantic panting for the danger signs they were. The dog was unconscious by the time the veterinarian started working on him, and the animal died shortly after, as I looked on in horror. I remember that poor Lab every time I see someone running a dog on a warm day.

Dogs don't function as efficiently as we do in heat, and while exercise is important, it's best left to cool mornings and evenings in the summer. If your dog isn't in shape, work up to long sessions gradually, and watch carefully for any sign your dog is in trouble. Carry water, and offer it often. And if your dog should get overheated, put cool, but not cold, water on him and find a veterinarian quickly.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600