Andy marked his 14th birthday in what has become traditional in recent years: with a basket of cherry tomatoes and a prostate exam. The first part is what Andy would choose for himself -- the old sheltie is crazy for tomatoes -- but the latter was clearly my idea.

The look Andy gave me when our veterinarian snapped on the rubber glove would have taken out half the cats in the county, but I ignored it. His head-to-tail examination is exactly what I wanted for his birthday, a reassurance that the dog who has ruled my household for so long will be around for a few more years.

And besides, I do take just the smallest amount of glee in putting him through it. Seems only fair considering the dog usually gets more cards on his birthday than I do on mine.

Blood work, X-rays and more -- I walked out of the hospital a couple of hundred dollars lighter, but with a feeling that I've never seen money better spent. Andy came up normal, incredibly, aggressively normal for a dog of his age. The only glitch: Last year our veterinarian discovered a small heart murmur; this year it's slightly worse. But it hasn't diminished the quality of Andy's life, and hasn't done anything to alter the graceful path into old age for the handsome dog I long ago nicknamed "The Brat."

Andy is still a brat, bless his silver head. He no longer does battles with lawn sprinklers, and he and his longtime nemesis, the neighbor's ginger tabby, George, have long ago settled their differences. They just became too darn old to spend their days tormenting each other. With mail carriers, though, Andy remains vigilant, to a point. The dog barks if the mail carrier comes in the morning. In the afternoon, when Andy's napping, the man could step right over him and Andy wouldn't care.

Not that I'd ever take such a chance. Andy still has all of his teeth, after all.

He uses those teeth, too, on my socks and underwear. I frequently find both in the yard. The socks are salvageable; the underwear not. You'd think after all these years I'd learn to use a hamper. I never punish him, by the way. At his age, he gets away with everything.

Andy is such a presence that the retrievers, Benjamin and Heather, move to let him pass. Although nearly twice his size, they never try to steal food or toys from him, and they take care not to bump him. With each other they are very physical, playing in ways that have left me astonished that they've never broken skin or bones. With the old dog they are respectful.

I'd like to take credit for Andy's health and longevity, and I suppose I can for some of it. The dog has always had good nutrition, regular grooming, plenty of exercise, and an aggressive regimen of preventive health at my oh-so-patient veterinarian's, including regular dental cleanings (you should see the dog's teeth!). No doubt all this attention has had an impact, but I think Andy himself has had a larger one.

Andy has always done what he wanted, and pretty much had what he wanted, since the day he moved in with me. His interest in underwear aside, he has been the kind of dog who makes a trainer look brilliant, because Andy's so naturally well-mannered and trustworthy.

But in the end, I'm just the servant here. Filler of bowls, holder of leashes, brushes, plastic bags and dog treats, buyer of tomatoes and, sometimes, the driver who takes His Majesty to the veterinarian against his will.

Andy rules. The dog will go when he's good and ready. And I pray that time isn't soon.

THE SCOOP

Who'd have thought a shredder could almost take a dog's life? But it has happened, and it should make those of us who use these now-common appliances much more careful. Not just any dog was nearly killed, either: Recce, a border collie belonging to Stuart Mah of Florida, is one of the world's best in the sport of canine agility. The dog found something interesting about the shredder and lost nearly his entire tongue.

I'll admit to leaving my own shredder on "standby." But after hearing about Recce, I put it far under the table next to the desk, and now I unplug it when I'm not using it. As for Recce, he is now able to eat and drink again with his healed stump of a tongue (to the surprise of nearly everyone involved).

PETS ON THE WEB

Jane Hallander says she can communicate with animals. Not the way we do -- "Sit! Get off the couch" and so on -- but telepathically. With the help of her African grey parrot, Jing, Hallander claims to have found lost pets with a 65 percent rate of success, which in part she attributes to her ability to enlist wild crows and ravens in the search.

By now you are likely intrigued, or you're laughing and wondering if Hallander by any chance lives in California (she does). Either way, a visit to her modest Web site (http://home.netcom.com/(tilde)jing/index.html) is worthwhile. In addition to her writing on communicating with animals, Hallander has some good information on parrot behavior (she's also an avian behavior consultant), and some decent links add to the appeal.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We're looking to buy a yellow-naped Amazon parrot. We found a breeder who'll sell us one at a discount if we take it just after it has been hatched and hand-feed it ourselves. We've never done this, and we've never even had a parrot before. She says it's easy, though. What do you think? - H.J., via e-mail

A: I think you should pass, and find a breeder who wouldn't think of selling a baby bird that hasn't been fully weaned to a healthy adult diet.

While an experienced hand-feeder may find the task easy (rote, even), taking care of a baby bird is definitely not for beginners. Can I stress this further? How about this: My friend Dr. Brian Speer, a top avian specialist, once told me he is always dealing with frantic people who are losing their bird babies -- or who have killed them through improper hand-feeding. It's frighteningly easy to bungle the job, with tragic results.

Hand-feeding involves using a spoon or syringe to give formula to a baby bird at what starts out as two-hour intervals. The basics are the same as with human babies: Keep them warm, keep them clean, and feed them when they're hungry. Socialization is an essential part of the package, too, for young birds should be exposed to gentle handling and the sounds of a human household to make good pets.

When you factor in the risks, the trouble, and all those sleepless nights, hand-feeding your own bird isn't the bargain it may first appear to be. If you're thinking it's important for bonding, rest easy on that point as well. A healthy, well-socialized and fully weaned young bird will have no trouble at all bonding to you.

Q: I agree with you that most dogs don't get enough exercise and that the lack of exercise is at the root of many behavior problems. And yet I wish you would warn people that sometimes exercise can be dangerous. I cannot believe how often I see people running or biking with their dogs in the heat of the day. The dogs are in trouble, and their owners don't even know it! -- D.H., via e-mail

A: I'm happy to spread the word. I once was spending time at an emergency veterinary clinic when a young woman rushed in with a seriously ill Labrador. The dog was her grandmother's, and the young woman decided to take him Rollerblading while she was visiting -- not a good idea under any circumstances for an aging, sedentary and obese dog, but an even worse plan on a warm day.

The dog tried his best to keep up, and the young woman didn't recognize his glassy eyes and frantic panting for the danger signs they were. The dog was unconscious by the time the veterinarian started working on him, and the animal died shortly after, as I looked on in horror. I remember that poor Lab every time I see someone running a dog on a warm day.

Dogs don't function as efficiently as we do in heat, and while exercise is important, it's best left to cool mornings and evenings in the summer. If your dog isn't in shape, work up to long sessions gradually, and watch carefully for any sign your dog is in trouble. Carry water, and offer it often. And if your dog should get overheated, put cool, but not cold, water on him and find a veterinarian quickly.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Rare are the trips when I leave my dogs behind, and I'm certainly not alone in my enjoyment of traveling with my pets. You can find dozens of books on pet travel, many complete with information on the best places to stay and things to do in any given area. Some travel businesses even cater to people with pets, offering special rooming packages and activities. Where people go, pets go too, and in ever-increasing numbers.

But should every dog travel? I faced a sad decision recently when I went away with the two younger dogs and left my dear Andy, who's now 14, behind. The place we were going had too many big dogs and goings-on for an animal who prefers the quiet life now, so Andy stayed with a retired friend who pampers him nonstop.

An aging pet may be best left at home, but there are others who also fall into that category. A pet who's not in good health or is nervous or untrustworthy in new situations is probably best left behind with a friend, a sitter, in a kennel or at your veterinarian's.

The best canine travelers are reasonably well-mannered -- more than can be said for many human tourists -- and in good health. That said, don't count your pet out without a little consideration and a trip to your veterinarian's. Your pet may be in better shape than you think, after all, and any behavior problems she has may be fixable.

If your dog's last checkup was a few years ago, get a thorough one now. You have to, anyway, if you're shipping your pet by air or going to another country, because you need a health certificate. But even if you're only driving to a state park four hours away, you want to know that your pet is in good health, and you need to know that he's current on his vaccinations, especially rabies. Many parks require proof of rabies, and even if where you're going doesn't, you'll want to have it with you just in case the unthinkable happens -- your dog bites someone.

The minimum requirements for canine travelers is that they be able to behave themselves on-leash in some very exciting circumstances: around strange people, strange dogs, and strange scenery, sounds and smells. If you plan to let your dog off-leash, you'd better be sure that he'll come when called and leave something alone -- like a dead fish on the beach -- when you ask him to.

The other component of successful travel with a dog is you. Are you sure you're up to the task? Travel with pets comes with certain built-in problems: You have to pack for you pets, too, and you can't just leave your pet in the car while you spend hours window-shopping. Traveling with a pet is a responsibility, too. Lodgings that accept pets can change their policies, and many do after having to put up with noisy or messy pets and the complaints of other clients. If you take your pet along, you must be sure to clean up after him and keep him quiet.

To me, the extra work is worth it, of course, and as long as there are vacations, I'll be likely to have my dogs with me. Even now I'm planning a weekend getaway where Andy can go, too. Leaving him behind may have been the right decision for the last trip, but he'll be riding shotgun again for the next one.

PETS ON THE WEB

A pair of finches have built a nest on top of the motion-detector floodlights outside my back door. I could have pulled down the nest before the eggs came, but I didn't have the heart. Instead, I turned off the light and now I'm waiting for the babies to hatch. Perhaps it's because I'm so emotionally invested in my own little finch family that I was drawn to the Web site (http://birds.cornell.edu/aboutclo) of the ornithology laboratory at Cornell University. Lots of great information here on wild birds, including a bird of the week and bird sound of the week feature. My favorite section is the Bird House Network, which includes live Webcams of nests. If I miss my babies hatching, I'll be able to watch others.

THE SCOOP

Accidents happen even to the cautious. One disaster that's all too common in multi-pet household is a biting incident between a predatory animal (cat or dog) and a prey one (bird, hamster, rabbit). A bite is a genuine medical emergency, even if the pet who has been bitten seems fine afterward. Dogs and cats have bacteria in their mouths that can develop into a deadly infection in a bird or other prey animal. For many of these, a prompt trip to a veterinarian and a course of antibiotics will mean the difference between life and death. Nights, weekends -- no matter when it happens -- a bitten bird or rabbit needs help, fast. Call your regularly veterinarian or emergency clinic for guidance.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our dog is very hyperactive. She makes me crazy, jumping up on everyone. She won't obey any command, and we can't walk her on a leash. I've heard about dogs getting Prozac. Would that help? -- M.U., via e-mail

A: Not really. Prozac and other medications certainly have been shown to have a place in veterinary medicine, but they are no magic bullet. You can't just get a bottle full of pills and hope to have your dog problems disappear. Even with medications, the experts stress the importance of good nutrition, plenty of exercise, behavioral modification and just plain basic training.

You didn't mention what kind of dog you have, but I'm guess you have a young, large dog of an active breed or mix. I would guess, further, that your dog isn't getting enough exercise. It's a pretty easy guess, really, because few dogs do get the exercise they require. And veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists hear a lot about digging, chewing, barking and general "hyper" behavior as a result. If a dog doesn't get the exercise he needs, he'll get it in ways that will drive you crazy. It's not his fault, though.

Your dog likely needs exercise and training. Large, active breeds do well with a half-hour of aerobic exercise -- running, playing fetch, etc. -- three to four times a week. I know well about exercise requirements; my retrievers start bouncing off the walls if they don't get their exercise and can be very hard to live with. If they get out and run or swim, they are content to nap while I work.

As for training, your dog isn't obeying commands because she doesn't know them, or at least hasn't been trained well enough to realize the rules apply in all situations. (I bet she sits promptly when she wants something, like a cookie!)

Put aside the idea of Prozac for now and go for the basics. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist in your area who can work with you to get the right amount of exercise for your dog and show you effective ways of training your pup. And stick with it! If you meet your dog's needs, she'll become the pet you're hoping for.

Q: We just moved from the city onto some acreage, and we want a pet ostrich. What do you think of this idea? -- E.H., via e-mail

A: My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, Dr. Brian Speer, has a handful of these great beasties. My introduction to them at his home came with a warning not to stand in front of the birds, because they are capable of kicking a person to death. (Unlike horses, ostriches kick forward.) Brian loves his flock, but I've stayed clear ever since.

Most people who keep ostriches are breeding for profit -- there's a market for meat, hide, feathers and even eggs. Some people do keep them as pets, though. Females can be manageable, but males can be dangerous and extremely difficult to control.

A better choice might be an emu. Smaller than an ostrich but still large enough to attract attention, an emu can be quite friendly if it's raised with and socialized by people. (Brian says they like to be hugged!) Baby emus are adorable, marked with their own little "racing stripes" that fade as the bird matures to its full size, about 5 feet tall, with weight between 80 and 100 pounds. Emus also lay very interesting eggs, with a leathery green shell.

Whichever you choose, hook up with a veterinarian familiar with these animals to help you get the basics of proper care and handling.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

I've just spend the better part of a week with a litter of 6-week-old puppies. I've played with them, let them untie my shoelaces again and again, taken pictures of them, and just plain enjoyed being around them.

Maybe it's not your dream vacation, but it certainly is mine.

The pups belong to my friend Linda, who breeds some of the best Rhodesian ridgebacks imaginable, dogs with near-perfect appearance for their breed and great temperaments for any breed. She doesn't have puppies in her home that often, so enjoying these five was a rare treat. A glimpse at future champions, too, if breeding has any say in the matter: The mom is a sister to a dog who won big at Westminster, and the dad has a best-in-show win on his resume. The waiting list for any of Linda's puppies is years long.

Puppies are puppies, though, and these fat little babies knew nothing about their pedigrees, nor cared. Their days were spent wrestling, playing and exploring. Gentle introduction to new experiences is important, and Linda knows it. Her pups are constantly handled, given lots of room for safe exploration, and introduced at an early age to such horrors as nail trims and grooming.

Some of the most important lessons they learn, though, come from their mother and from each other. And too many puppies don't get a chance to learn all they should before they go to new homes. Despite all the research on the importance of staying with littermates longer, some breeders can't seem to get rid of their puppies fast enough, sending them out the door the minute they're weaned, as early as 5 weeks of age.

Many experts believe pups shouldn't go to their new homes until they are 7 weeks old, at least, and Linda keeps hers even longer, placing them at 9 weeks. Puppies learn some valuable lessons in the weeks after weaning, including how to get along with other dogs, and that biting hurts. These are lessons, all learned in puppy play, that no dog should be without.

Every litter I see is educational for me as well. Dogs are born knowing more about canine behavior than I'll learn in my lifetime, which is one of the reasons I love to watch puppies. Within a few minutes the personalities of any litter of puppies become evident to the careful observer. Linda's puppies are all called by their collar color until placed -- red, green, yellow, purple and blue.

In this litter the pushiest is a pup called Green. He is always on top in every wrestling match, and first into every new experience. When my dog Benjamin, who loves puppies, went into the pen to play, the puppies scattered in fear -– but Green was chewing on Ben not a minute later. Following Green's example, the rest were soon climbing on Ben, to the delight of the big retriever.

The night before I was to head home, Linda and her husband, Craig, took me out to a nearby restaurant for dinner. We encountered a fellow who was selling puppies, Labrador and golden retrievers, out of the back of his pickup truck -- a situation that couldn't be more different from that of the puppies back at the house.

We said little, but managed to talk a waitress out of buying a pup on impulse. Who knew where these puppies came from? We warned her about congenital defects and explained to her about socialization. I doubt the lost sale slowed the puppy man down at all. The weather was beautiful and the seaside town was packed with tourists. The puppies were likely sold before the end of the next day.

I can only pray they found good homes and will be healthy and emotionally sound. My bigger wish, though, is that someday everyone will understand the risks they take with such a seller.

With shelter pups and older purebreds and mixes just begging for homes, you needn't limit your search to purebred puppies. But if you must, you're better off finding a breeder like Linda, who breeds the best and knows how to raise a puppy right.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Fun" is the word ferret lovers seem to use most when describing their pets. The animals are a joy to watch, always playing, investigating and getting into trouble. While they're not legally kept everywhere -– California is the biggest hold-out against ferret legalization -– ferret popularity is growing everywhere else.

A Web site with good basic information is The Ferret Owner Manual (www.thechipster.com/fert-man.html), with well-organized sections on raising, training, feeding and grooming, among others. Other ferret sites worth a look include The Ferret Zone (www.ferretzone.com/) and Ferret Central (www.ferretcentral.org).

THE SCOOP

A perch is more than something to stand on for your bird. Chosen properly, it's also an important tool for helping to keep your bird physically and emotionally sound. When choosing perches, think variety, and select an array of textures. Choices you'll find at the bird store include rope, natural wood and concrete, and each should find a place in your bird's cage.

Some of the best perches around won't cost you anything more than the time it takes to trim them from your trees. Limbs from most fruit and nut trees make fine perches, as do those from ash, elm, dogwood and magnolia. Cut the branches to fit the cage, scrub with detergent, rinse well, and let them dry in the sun before putting them in the cage. A final check is for insect pods -- just break them off and dispose of them in an outside trash can.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am writing concerning your article on head halters, where you recommend people throw their correction collars away. I use a halter on my son's 3-year-old female Rottweiler because of aggression. Never would I think of not using a backup. A correction collar is the only kind of collar that allows the halter to work properly and still have the dog on leash should the halter come off.

To even suggest that dog owners "throw the darn thing away" is absurd! A dog that pulls obviously isn't trained to walk on a leash in the first place, and should the halter come off the dog without a backup collar, you are looking at not only losing total control of your dog but worse! The head collar is not foolproof, but to back it up with the correction collar is the only way to make sure the dog and owner stay together and enjoy many more walks together. -– C.S., via e-mail

A: Some brands of head halters seem easier to slip out of than others. Anyone thinking of using a halter should consider working with a trainer to ensure the correct halter and fit for the dog. A trainer can also help you teach your dog to accept the halter more easily, and help you both learn the skills you need to walk with one.

I agree a backup collar is important, but you needn't use a chain collar. A regular snap-together or buckled-flat collar will do fine, with a second leash attached. I've also seen people run a short length of leash material from the end of the regular leash to the collar, and that's OK, too, if it's long enough so the dog feels the leash pull on the head halter only.

My problem with chain collars remains that they are cruel and ineffective if used improperly -- and I almost never seem them used the right way. They're put on upside down (with the moving end coming under the neck instead of over it) or just kept constantly tight as the dog drags the owner down the street.

Q: You recently mentioned a formula used for removing the odor of skunk on dogs. I neglected to cut out the article, and before I knew it, the recyling had been done. Would you be kind enough to repeat the formula? -– D.P., via e-mail

A: Must be a lot of stinky pets out there, because I'm getting a lot of requests like yours every week. Here's the recipe again:

Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (available from any drugstore), 1/4 cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate for you science types) and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Rinse thoroughly with tap water.

Remember that this mixture cannot be made up in advance. The chemical reaction that removes the smell is strong enough to burst any container you put the solution in, Also, the mixture works best when applied immediately after mixing.

Happy de-skunking!

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600