Rare are the trips when I leave my dogs behind, and I'm certainly not alone in my enjoyment of traveling with my pets. You can find dozens of books on pet travel, many complete with information on the best places to stay and things to do in any given area. Some travel businesses even cater to people with pets, offering special rooming packages and activities. Where people go, pets go too, and in ever-increasing numbers.

But should every dog travel? I faced a sad decision recently when I went away with the two younger dogs and left my dear Andy, who's now 14, behind. The place we were going had too many big dogs and goings-on for an animal who prefers the quiet life now, so Andy stayed with a retired friend who pampers him nonstop.

An aging pet may be best left at home, but there are others who also fall into that category. A pet who's not in good health or is nervous or untrustworthy in new situations is probably best left behind with a friend, a sitter, in a kennel or at your veterinarian's.

The best canine travelers are reasonably well-mannered -- more than can be said for many human tourists -- and in good health. That said, don't count your pet out without a little consideration and a trip to your veterinarian's. Your pet may be in better shape than you think, after all, and any behavior problems she has may be fixable.

If your dog's last checkup was a few years ago, get a thorough one now. You have to, anyway, if you're shipping your pet by air or going to another country, because you need a health certificate. But even if you're only driving to a state park four hours away, you want to know that your pet is in good health, and you need to know that he's current on his vaccinations, especially rabies. Many parks require proof of rabies, and even if where you're going doesn't, you'll want to have it with you just in case the unthinkable happens -- your dog bites someone.

The minimum requirements for canine travelers is that they be able to behave themselves on-leash in some very exciting circumstances: around strange people, strange dogs, and strange scenery, sounds and smells. If you plan to let your dog off-leash, you'd better be sure that he'll come when called and leave something alone -- like a dead fish on the beach -- when you ask him to.

The other component of successful travel with a dog is you. Are you sure you're up to the task? Travel with pets comes with certain built-in problems: You have to pack for you pets, too, and you can't just leave your pet in the car while you spend hours window-shopping. Traveling with a pet is a responsibility, too. Lodgings that accept pets can change their policies, and many do after having to put up with noisy or messy pets and the complaints of other clients. If you take your pet along, you must be sure to clean up after him and keep him quiet.

To me, the extra work is worth it, of course, and as long as there are vacations, I'll be likely to have my dogs with me. Even now I'm planning a weekend getaway where Andy can go, too. Leaving him behind may have been the right decision for the last trip, but he'll be riding shotgun again for the next one.

PETS ON THE WEB

A pair of finches have built a nest on top of the motion-detector floodlights outside my back door. I could have pulled down the nest before the eggs came, but I didn't have the heart. Instead, I turned off the light and now I'm waiting for the babies to hatch. Perhaps it's because I'm so emotionally invested in my own little finch family that I was drawn to the Web site (http://birds.cornell.edu/aboutclo) of the ornithology laboratory at Cornell University. Lots of great information here on wild birds, including a bird of the week and bird sound of the week feature. My favorite section is the Bird House Network, which includes live Webcams of nests. If I miss my babies hatching, I'll be able to watch others.

THE SCOOP

Accidents happen even to the cautious. One disaster that's all too common in multi-pet household is a biting incident between a predatory animal (cat or dog) and a prey one (bird, hamster, rabbit). A bite is a genuine medical emergency, even if the pet who has been bitten seems fine afterward. Dogs and cats have bacteria in their mouths that can develop into a deadly infection in a bird or other prey animal. For many of these, a prompt trip to a veterinarian and a course of antibiotics will mean the difference between life and death. Nights, weekends -- no matter when it happens -- a bitten bird or rabbit needs help, fast. Call your regularly veterinarian or emergency clinic for guidance.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our dog is very hyperactive. She makes me crazy, jumping up on everyone. She won't obey any command, and we can't walk her on a leash. I've heard about dogs getting Prozac. Would that help? -- M.U., via e-mail

A: Not really. Prozac and other medications certainly have been shown to have a place in veterinary medicine, but they are no magic bullet. You can't just get a bottle full of pills and hope to have your dog problems disappear. Even with medications, the experts stress the importance of good nutrition, plenty of exercise, behavioral modification and just plain basic training.

You didn't mention what kind of dog you have, but I'm guess you have a young, large dog of an active breed or mix. I would guess, further, that your dog isn't getting enough exercise. It's a pretty easy guess, really, because few dogs do get the exercise they require. And veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists hear a lot about digging, chewing, barking and general "hyper" behavior as a result. If a dog doesn't get the exercise he needs, he'll get it in ways that will drive you crazy. It's not his fault, though.

Your dog likely needs exercise and training. Large, active breeds do well with a half-hour of aerobic exercise -- running, playing fetch, etc. -- three to four times a week. I know well about exercise requirements; my retrievers start bouncing off the walls if they don't get their exercise and can be very hard to live with. If they get out and run or swim, they are content to nap while I work.

As for training, your dog isn't obeying commands because she doesn't know them, or at least hasn't been trained well enough to realize the rules apply in all situations. (I bet she sits promptly when she wants something, like a cookie!)

Put aside the idea of Prozac for now and go for the basics. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist in your area who can work with you to get the right amount of exercise for your dog and show you effective ways of training your pup. And stick with it! If you meet your dog's needs, she'll become the pet you're hoping for.

Q: We just moved from the city onto some acreage, and we want a pet ostrich. What do you think of this idea? -- E.H., via e-mail

A: My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, Dr. Brian Speer, has a handful of these great beasties. My introduction to them at his home came with a warning not to stand in front of the birds, because they are capable of kicking a person to death. (Unlike horses, ostriches kick forward.) Brian loves his flock, but I've stayed clear ever since.

Most people who keep ostriches are breeding for profit -- there's a market for meat, hide, feathers and even eggs. Some people do keep them as pets, though. Females can be manageable, but males can be dangerous and extremely difficult to control.

A better choice might be an emu. Smaller than an ostrich but still large enough to attract attention, an emu can be quite friendly if it's raised with and socialized by people. (Brian says they like to be hugged!) Baby emus are adorable, marked with their own little "racing stripes" that fade as the bird matures to its full size, about 5 feet tall, with weight between 80 and 100 pounds. Emus also lay very interesting eggs, with a leathery green shell.

Whichever you choose, hook up with a veterinarian familiar with these animals to help you get the basics of proper care and handling.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

I've just spend the better part of a week with a litter of 6-week-old puppies. I've played with them, let them untie my shoelaces again and again, taken pictures of them, and just plain enjoyed being around them.

Maybe it's not your dream vacation, but it certainly is mine.

The pups belong to my friend Linda, who breeds some of the best Rhodesian ridgebacks imaginable, dogs with near-perfect appearance for their breed and great temperaments for any breed. She doesn't have puppies in her home that often, so enjoying these five was a rare treat. A glimpse at future champions, too, if breeding has any say in the matter: The mom is a sister to a dog who won big at Westminster, and the dad has a best-in-show win on his resume. The waiting list for any of Linda's puppies is years long.

Puppies are puppies, though, and these fat little babies knew nothing about their pedigrees, nor cared. Their days were spent wrestling, playing and exploring. Gentle introduction to new experiences is important, and Linda knows it. Her pups are constantly handled, given lots of room for safe exploration, and introduced at an early age to such horrors as nail trims and grooming.

Some of the most important lessons they learn, though, come from their mother and from each other. And too many puppies don't get a chance to learn all they should before they go to new homes. Despite all the research on the importance of staying with littermates longer, some breeders can't seem to get rid of their puppies fast enough, sending them out the door the minute they're weaned, as early as 5 weeks of age.

Many experts believe pups shouldn't go to their new homes until they are 7 weeks old, at least, and Linda keeps hers even longer, placing them at 9 weeks. Puppies learn some valuable lessons in the weeks after weaning, including how to get along with other dogs, and that biting hurts. These are lessons, all learned in puppy play, that no dog should be without.

Every litter I see is educational for me as well. Dogs are born knowing more about canine behavior than I'll learn in my lifetime, which is one of the reasons I love to watch puppies. Within a few minutes the personalities of any litter of puppies become evident to the careful observer. Linda's puppies are all called by their collar color until placed -- red, green, yellow, purple and blue.

In this litter the pushiest is a pup called Green. He is always on top in every wrestling match, and first into every new experience. When my dog Benjamin, who loves puppies, went into the pen to play, the puppies scattered in fear -– but Green was chewing on Ben not a minute later. Following Green's example, the rest were soon climbing on Ben, to the delight of the big retriever.

The night before I was to head home, Linda and her husband, Craig, took me out to a nearby restaurant for dinner. We encountered a fellow who was selling puppies, Labrador and golden retrievers, out of the back of his pickup truck -- a situation that couldn't be more different from that of the puppies back at the house.

We said little, but managed to talk a waitress out of buying a pup on impulse. Who knew where these puppies came from? We warned her about congenital defects and explained to her about socialization. I doubt the lost sale slowed the puppy man down at all. The weather was beautiful and the seaside town was packed with tourists. The puppies were likely sold before the end of the next day.

I can only pray they found good homes and will be healthy and emotionally sound. My bigger wish, though, is that someday everyone will understand the risks they take with such a seller.

With shelter pups and older purebreds and mixes just begging for homes, you needn't limit your search to purebred puppies. But if you must, you're better off finding a breeder like Linda, who breeds the best and knows how to raise a puppy right.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Fun" is the word ferret lovers seem to use most when describing their pets. The animals are a joy to watch, always playing, investigating and getting into trouble. While they're not legally kept everywhere -– California is the biggest hold-out against ferret legalization -– ferret popularity is growing everywhere else.

A Web site with good basic information is The Ferret Owner Manual (www.thechipster.com/fert-man.html), with well-organized sections on raising, training, feeding and grooming, among others. Other ferret sites worth a look include The Ferret Zone (www.ferretzone.com/) and Ferret Central (www.ferretcentral.org).

THE SCOOP

A perch is more than something to stand on for your bird. Chosen properly, it's also an important tool for helping to keep your bird physically and emotionally sound. When choosing perches, think variety, and select an array of textures. Choices you'll find at the bird store include rope, natural wood and concrete, and each should find a place in your bird's cage.

Some of the best perches around won't cost you anything more than the time it takes to trim them from your trees. Limbs from most fruit and nut trees make fine perches, as do those from ash, elm, dogwood and magnolia. Cut the branches to fit the cage, scrub with detergent, rinse well, and let them dry in the sun before putting them in the cage. A final check is for insect pods -- just break them off and dispose of them in an outside trash can.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am writing concerning your article on head halters, where you recommend people throw their correction collars away. I use a halter on my son's 3-year-old female Rottweiler because of aggression. Never would I think of not using a backup. A correction collar is the only kind of collar that allows the halter to work properly and still have the dog on leash should the halter come off.

To even suggest that dog owners "throw the darn thing away" is absurd! A dog that pulls obviously isn't trained to walk on a leash in the first place, and should the halter come off the dog without a backup collar, you are looking at not only losing total control of your dog but worse! The head collar is not foolproof, but to back it up with the correction collar is the only way to make sure the dog and owner stay together and enjoy many more walks together. -– C.S., via e-mail

A: Some brands of head halters seem easier to slip out of than others. Anyone thinking of using a halter should consider working with a trainer to ensure the correct halter and fit for the dog. A trainer can also help you teach your dog to accept the halter more easily, and help you both learn the skills you need to walk with one.

I agree a backup collar is important, but you needn't use a chain collar. A regular snap-together or buckled-flat collar will do fine, with a second leash attached. I've also seen people run a short length of leash material from the end of the regular leash to the collar, and that's OK, too, if it's long enough so the dog feels the leash pull on the head halter only.

My problem with chain collars remains that they are cruel and ineffective if used improperly -- and I almost never seem them used the right way. They're put on upside down (with the moving end coming under the neck instead of over it) or just kept constantly tight as the dog drags the owner down the street.

Q: You recently mentioned a formula used for removing the odor of skunk on dogs. I neglected to cut out the article, and before I knew it, the recyling had been done. Would you be kind enough to repeat the formula? -– D.P., via e-mail

A: Must be a lot of stinky pets out there, because I'm getting a lot of requests like yours every week. Here's the recipe again:

Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (available from any drugstore), 1/4 cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate for you science types) and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Rinse thoroughly with tap water.

Remember that this mixture cannot be made up in advance. The chemical reaction that removes the smell is strong enough to burst any container you put the solution in, Also, the mixture works best when applied immediately after mixing.

Happy de-skunking!

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Pssst! Wanna see a picture of my pets?

I love to take pictures, especially of my pets. And yet, I realized recently that quite some time had passed since I've made my long-suffering dogs sit nicely and look alert while I tried to capture a perfect moment, suitable for framing.

What made me realize how long it had been was one of life's little tragedies: the death of my parrot, Patrick. I had him more than a year, and I never once took his picture. I guess I figured he'd be with me for decades, and that as his feather-picked body continued to mend he'd get better-looking. Things didn't turn out that way at all.

And now, the pets who remain are suffering because of my regret, even more since I bought a nifty new digital camera. They're almost as tired of getting their pictures taken as my friends are of seeing the images.

So what, I say. I'm still shooting. And I've gotten pretty good over the years, mostly by following a few tried-and-true tips:

-- Get your children involved. I have to rely on my niece and nephew since I have no kids of my own, but they're wonderful photographer's assistants. Get a kid to help you with your pictures by teasing your pet with a toy, or zoom in close to get pictures of kids and pets together.

-- Head outdoors. Natural light -- early morning is best -- avoids the dreaded red-eye shot, where the flash makes your beautiful pet come out looking like a monster. Taking pictures outside gives your pet a more natural, healthy look. If your pet is a solid, dark color, use your flash outdoors (if your camera enables you to do so). The flash brings out the detail in your pet's face. If you do end up with red-eye, though, don't despair. One of the nifty things about digital photography is that you can remove red-eye in the finished product. I do this with Photoshop, but lots of less-expensive programs will do the same.

Bear in mind that being outdoors can be risky for some pets. If you take your bird outside, make sure his wings have been properly and recently clipped. Without a proper wing trim, a bird may be able to gain enough loft to fly out of reach. And indoor cats may be tempted to bolt. So be careful.

-- Get close. If you want a good picture, you need to go where your pet is. Shoot at just below your pet's eye level and zoom in as closely as you can for good detail.

-- Watch your backgrounds. Think neutral -- a plain wall, not a cluttered cabinet. Think contrast -- light for a dark pet, dark for a light one. If your cat loves to sleep on the busy fabric of your sofa, for example, consider throwing a solid blanket down first.

-- Be creative. If you want your pet to kiss your children, do as the pros do: Put a little butter on your children and let the pet kiss it off. This is a tip I got years ago when I interviewed a woman who trained animals for commercials. I've smiled every time I've seen a dog smooch a kid on TV since, knowing that more than affection was at play.

The best advice, and perhaps the hardest to follow, is to be patient and have fun. Film is cheap, and digital images are free once you have the gear. Take lots of shots, enjoy the good ones, and toss the rest. Just don't forget to get some pictures. You can be assured I've learned my lesson: Any animal who's here more than a day will be "shot," so I never have to regret not having a picture.

PETS ON THE WEB

No fancy graphics on this Web site (or graphics at all, for that matter) and not a lot in the way of text. But you don't need either to enjoy the Songs of Brazilian Birds Web site (www.mma.gov.br/ingles/CGMI/cantoave/cantoi.html), with its 51 recordings of sounds you'd usually have to be standing in the rain forest to hear. Some you might not hear even if you were in Brazil, since a few of the recordings are of birds whose future in the wild is very much in doubt. Among them, the hyacinth macaw, a stunning blue bird who's the largest of the parrots kept as pets. The raspy sound of their cries fades hauntingly away in the offered clip.

THE SCOOP

How odd that two books about dogs in the workplace should cross my desk the same week. Of the two, I found myself smiling more at "Working Dogs: Tales From Animal Planet's K-9 to 5 World," by Colleen Needles and Kit Carlson, with photographs by Kim Levin (Discovery Books, $15.95). The photographs are extraordinary, and they capture the spirit of dogs from Gidget, the famous Taco Bell spokesdog, to such workaday lugs as Bosco, the Labrador who fetches errant pins in a bowling alley.

"Dogs With Jobs: Working Dogs Around the World," by Merrily Weisboro and Kim Kachanoff, DVM, (Pocket Books, $24.95), is a more thoughtful exploration of the same ground, with writing that will sometimes bring you to tears. The story of Happy Ralph, a racing greyhound at the end of his career, is especially well-done, his story told with love, heart and honesty. These are two books I won't be parting with anytime soon.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am moving to a new neighborhood that has other dogs, all in pens. I don't have the money to fence the yard just now, much less buy my dogs their own pen each. I need a short-term solution to keep them in my yard and not the neighbors' yards.

I've heard that pouring ammonia around the perimeter will keep the dogs in their place, but does it really work? Please respond. I don't have much time! -- N.L., via e-mail

A: Ammonia won't work, sorry. Your dogs won't like the smell, but it won't slow them down for a second in their hurry to explore their new neighborhood.

A fencing is the only long-term solution. In the short term, you'll need to take them out on leashes or put them on tethers.

Tethering is not a good long-term solution, so please don't even consider it as a permanent fix to your problem. Dogs do not do well tied up; some even become vicious as a result. Tethering has other hazards, too. Your dogs can tangle up their lines and become unable to reach food, water or shade, or loose dogs can attack them. For these reasons, I recommend tethering for short periods at a time, and always under supervision. And remember: Never use choke-chain collar with a tether. It's too easy for a dog to strangle himself.

If you cannot afford to fence the whole yard right away, look into ready-made dog runs. You can find them relatively cheaply for less than a couple of hundred dollars, less if you are able to find one secondhand. These will keep your dogs safe during their potty breaks.

Q: I am trying to find out at what age we should introduce our kittens to canned food. Also, how soon should we have our cat spayed after having kittens? -- D.C., via e-mail

A: Mother cats start tiring of nursing when their kittens are around 3 weeks old. You should make solid food available from that point on. Softening dry food with water and placing a dab on each kitten's nose makes the transition easier. As the mother shows less and less interest in nursing, the kittens will gradually move over to solid food. By the age of 7 weeks, they should be completely weaned.

Cats can become pregnant not long after weaning their babies, so don't delay in calling your veterinarian to arrange a spay. Many an "oops" litter has become a "double oops" because someone didn't realize just how prolific a breeder a cat can be.

When you're discussing the mother cat's spaying, ask your veterinarian about neutering the kittens as well. Spaying and neutering are now routinely and safely performed on kittens and puppies as young as 8 weeks of age. With so many unwanted cats and kittens, you'll be taking a positive step toward ending the cycle of misery if you ensure that all your cats and kittens will not be reproducing.

While you're thinking about weaning, here's something else to work in to the routine: helping your kittens learn to use a litter box. At the same time you start weaning them, have clean litter boxes available. The mother cat will teach the kittens how to use them.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600