Sometimes it seems as if I've spent my whole life in a crusade to get people to stop using choke chains as an everyday collar for their dogs. And sometimes it seems a futile effort, since not a day goes by that I don't see a dog with a choke chain for a collar, the license hanging from the ring as proof that the animal wears the deadly chain all the time.

In the past I've argued that the choke-chain collar is only for walking and training your dog, and you put your dog at grave risk if you leave a chain collar on an unsupervised dog. That's because the ring of the chain has been known to get caught, even on the tooth of another dog in play. When a dog is snagged, his natural instinct is to pull away, and that causes the collar to tighten. The more panicked he gets, the more he pulls, the more the collar tightens. The end result, you can well imagine.

Your dog should wear a collar and tags for his own safety. And for safety, that should be a collar with a buckle or snap holding it together -- not, not, NOT a choke chain.

OK, so that's what I've always said. Today I'm going to say something more on the subject of choke-chain collars. When you take the chain off your dog -- as soon as possible, please -- don't put it aside for training or for walks. Just throw the darn thing away.

The choke-chain collar is an effective training tool when used correctly. And it's not cruel when used correctly. The problem is, the choke-chain collar is rarely used correctly. In a lifetime of sharing my life with dogs, training dogs and writing about dogs, I can count on one hand the number of times I've seen the average dog lover using a choke chain correctly -- and I'd still have two or three fingers left over for counting.

There are only two ways to put on a choke-chain collar: with the moving end over the dog's neck (right), or under the dog's neck (wrong). By the simplest law of averages you'd think folks would get them on right half the time, but all I ever see is the wrong way. When the moving part of the chain comes from under the dog's neck, the chain doesn't release easily when the leash is slackened. Since the collar's usefulness as a training tool relies on a quick snap-and-release action, a collar that's put on wrong is useless at best, and cruel at worst.

But even if the collar's put on right, people still manage to use it wrong. The collar is meant to be loose at all times except for the occasional split-second tightening to correct a dog's behavior. And yet most collars are tight all the time, as gasping dogs in coke chains drag their owners down the street.

I realize it may be hard to give up the choke chain. It's an ingrained part of our consciousness, one of the things we buy automatically for our dogs -- food bowls, a leash, a choke chain. Many pet lovers may not even know an alternative exists. But it's out there.

Primary among them, especially for people who have trouble walking their dogs, would be a head halter such as the Gentle Leader. Take the basic idea of a horse halter (where the head goes the body will follow), and add a couple of features just for dogs. Head halters are not muzzles. They work through pressure to the back of the neck and top of the muzzle, spots used by canine mothers to transmit the message of "I'm the boss" to their pups.

If you can't walk your dog without choking him and running the risk of dislocating your own shoulder, it's time for a change. Throw out the chain, and the danger and confusion that comes with it, and go for the alternative that's both safer and more effective. Get a head halter for your pet. Your dog and your shoulder will both be grateful.

PETS ON THE WEB

Alley Cat Allies has been working for a decade to change the way we think about and deal with feral cats. The group promotes stabilizing feral populations through trap-neuter-return programs. As do many feral-cat advocates, the group argues that maintaining stable, nonbreeding colonies of cats is a more humane and cost-effective way of dealing with the problem than the constant effort people expend to exterminate wild cats.

The coalition's Web site (www.alleycat.org) is a resource for those who feel the same way, with information on why the trap-neuter-return program is a viable solution, along with tips on how to set up such a program in your community. Especially valuable are articles on taming wild-born kittens and relocating cat colonies.

THE SCOOP

Although growing constantly, the beak of a normal pet bird does not need to be trimmed. Your bird keeps her beak at the proper length with normal chewing. An overgrown beak is frequently a sign of illness. Contrary to what some bird books still preach, don't accept "beak trims" as a routine health-care measure -- they're not. The bird who gets routine "beak trims" instead of proper medical attention may have an attractive beak, but is at risk of succumbing to the disease that is causing the abnormal growth in the first place. Many of these underlying problems can be corrected if addressed early and accurately. See a veterinarian who specializes in avian medicine if your bird is having beak problems.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have been researching the Staffordshire bull terrier breed for about a month now, and I like what I see so far. I was wondering if you could give me any reasons why I should or should not buy this breed. -- S.S., via e-mail

A: The bull and terrier breeds -- the American Staffordshire terrier, bull terrier, miniature bull terrier and Staffordshire bull terrier are the American Kennel Club versions -- have come in for some bad press as "pit bulls" in recent years. That's a shame, because all these dogs, pit bulls included, were considered to be stable pets for generations.

What prompted the change is that pit bull-type dogs became popular with certain people who broadened the dogs' traditional aggression toward other dogs, producing animals that would bite people. Couple this trait with these dogs' awesome physical power and you've got an animal that justifiably should be feared.

If you buy from a reputable show-breeder, however, and socialize and train your puppy, you'll end up with a calm, sensible dog with an easy-care coat who provides good companionship for a family. The downside? These breeds are not as likely as, say, a golden retriever to be overly fond of other dogs, and you'll also be constantly dealing with people who are afraid of your "pit bull."

The Staffordshire bull terrier is on the small end of the scale for bull and terrier breeds, 14 to 16 inches at the shoulder. But like all of these dogs, they pack a lot of power into the package. The Staffy bull is my own personal favorite of this group, an even-tempered, good-natured and wholly reliable spark plug of a dog. I sat on the floor with one at the Westminster Kennel Club dog show in February and was covered in kisses in less than a minute. What a sweetheart!

If you do end up with one of these breeds, remember that you have an even higher responsibility than other dog owners to have your pet be a good citizen. As the owner of the bull and terrier breed, it falls to you to help improve the public's bad impression of any dog who resembles a "pit bull."

Q: I liked your advice on keeping kibble available for cats at all times and giving them a small amount of canned food at room temperature once a day.

Having had many cats over the years, I've discovered that they most often get hit by cars after dark, and that most of their fighting occurs during their dawn and dusk patrols. Keeping cats in the house at those times cuts down on problems, and the wet food treat is a great motivator and training aid.

Buster, who is currently my only cat, knows that he should show up just before the sun goes down, then he will get his tablespoon of wet food. He'll then be in for the night. I hope to keep my next cat(s) indoors always, but this system is a workable compromise. Keep up the interesting columns! -- F.R., via e-mail

A: I always get nasty mail when I say this, but the indoor-only life isn't possible for every cat and every cat lover. I always recommend that people have indoor cats and that they convert their indoor-outdoor cats. But I'm also aware that anything to make the life of a cat with outdoor access safer is well worth mentioning.

Your suggestion is an excellent one, and can save the life of many a free-roaming cat. My other suggestion for anyone who lets a cat roam is to make sure the animal is neutered and kept current on all vaccinations, including rabies.

Another way to keep your cat more safe is a fence designed to keep cats in the yard. (Yes, it's possible!) The San Diego Feral Cat Coalition has information on its Web site at www.feralcat.com/fence.html. The information is from the Alley Cat Allies group, but I couldn't find it on the Web site anymore. If you don't have Internet access for the San Diego group, call the ACA for more information at (202) 667-3630, or write to them at 1801 Belmont Road NW, Suite 201, Washington, D.C. 20009-5164.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My friend Jan has a soft spot for weird kitties. Her cats are so skittish, I'm not sure she has as many as she says she does. For years I haven't seen anything more than the flash of a tail heading down the hallway.

The exception is Noodles, who is odd in a wholly different and mostly gregarious way. At the advanced age of 15-plus, he remains one of my all-time favorite cats. This, despite the fact that I wince remembering the numerous times he has sunk teeth or claws into my hand while I was petting him. But maybe I have a soft spot for weird kitties, too.

As if the permanent residents weren't crazy enough, Jan once had temporary custody of two cats -- both of which came to her after exhibiting a distaste for even the most clean and well-placed of litter boxes. After a few months at Jan's house, the cats were cured of their various mental and physical problems and then returned to their original owner.

I don't think Jan herself is crazy, by the way, but I'm willing to admit I may not be the best judge of such things. After all, the number of animals who have come through my own little foster-care system over the years has probably numbered more than 50, and not a few of those pets were what you might generously call "challenged" in one way or another.

Now, though, I wonder a little if she's in over her head. She has wild kitties in her back bedroom. She trapped them outside her workplace and had them neutered and vaccinated. Now she's enduring all-out kitty warfare between the resident cats and the fosters, as she works to tame the latter. And she's struggling to find permanent homes for these formerly ferals, cats who will require the most patient and understanding of owners at a time of year when cozy kittens are starting to become plentiful.

Jan's foster cats don't stand up too well against kittenish competition. Still, she has placed two of them so far, and knows -- just KNOWS -- that she'll find the right people for the rest of her foster cats.

I hope she's right, and I think she will be. Those of us who love animals know we couldn't get by without hope, and Jan is as true an animal lover as I've ever met.

Although their situation seems precarious now, Jan's foster cats are on the right road at last. Their luck changed for the better when someone with a soft spot for weird kitties decided to take them home.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you like to look at cats, you'll love the Cat Delight Web site (www.dell.homestead.com/cat/home.html). Every month, several dozen photos are selected by a panel of judges to be featured as the best. Judging from the pictures for January and February, this will be a great year to keep an eye on this site. And who knows -- maybe your cat can be one of those featured!

THE SCOOP

Springtime is when we all think of gardening. If you're putting in some new plants, don't forget to include a few your pets will enjoy. Carrots are favored by many dogs, and make a great substitute for commercial treats for overweight pups. Catnip is a natural for cats, but also consider valerian, another herb that makes kitties dance with joy. Rabbits, guinea pigs, rats and other rodents will enjoy any leafy vegetable you plant. And as for parrots, what's good for you is great for your bird. The fresher the better!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have changed my four golden retrievers over to the BARF diet. They love it, and I make sure it is balanced. Their coats and teeth look wonderful. I will never buy dog food again! Just interested in what you think of this. -- T.B., via e-mail

A: A great many dog lovers have embraced the raw-food diet known as BARF with a near-religious fervor, while a great many veterinarians shake their heads in disbelief and even horror at what they see as a dangerous fad. (BARF stands for Bones and Raw Food, or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food.)

Australian veterinarian Dr. Ian Billinghurst is the creator of the BARF diet, but raw-food diets have been around for years, primarily promoted by American holistic veterinarian Dr. Richard Pitcairn. Earlier raw diets included carbohydrates from grains, while later incarnations are made up almost exclusively of raw, meaty bones and vegetables. The idea is that the diet is most like what a dog would eat in the wild: raw flesh and bones, along with vegetable matter from the bellies of their prey.

A BARF diet requires a leap of faith for many pet lovers: The first time you hand a whole chicken wing or turkey neck to your dog, you're certain that you're killing him. After all, how many times have we heard that poultry bones can kill? (Which is very true, by the way, of cooked ones, which shatter easily and take on the properties of an ice pick once inside a pet.)

Worries or not, an ever-growing number of dogs are getting raw provisions every day. Advocates argue that a diet of cooked meats and grains, which is what goes into commercial foods, is both unnatural and responsible for many health problems. And they also question the quality of the meat, which generally ends up as pet food because it's deemed not fit for human consumption.

On the other side of the issue, many veterinarians aren't satisfied with the data to support the claims of the BARFers, and point to feeding trials conducted by commercial pet-food manufacturers that show generations of healthy pets. They also worry that most pet lovers aren't capable of preparing a proper pet diet on their own. (The convenience of a commercial diet, after all, is a pretty strong selling point, considering how busy our lives are.) Finally, veterinarians worry about food contamination such as salmonella.

Raw-food advocates, not surprisingly, have answers for every one of these concerns. One thing is certain: The debate will rage for years.

As for what I think: I'm sitting on the fence on this one. I respect my veterinarian friends who want to see the results of feed trials and other controlled studies, but I also respect my intelligent dog-loving friends whose pets are indeed doing well on a raw diet.

Anyone who is considering a raw-food diet absolutely must do his or her homework first. Required reading: "Give Your Dog a Bone," by Dr. Ian Billinghurst (self-published, $27.95), and "Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats" (Rodale, $16.95). "Give Your Dog a Bone" is available from DogWise at www.dogwise.com, or by calling 1-800-776-2665.

Also, my friend Christie Keith has been raising what she jokingly calls "organically grown Scottish deerhounds" since 1986, and her Web site (www.caberfeidh.com) has a great collection of articles and links on raw-food diets.

Q: A few weeks ago we got a female cockapoo. She was 10 weeks old when we got her, and she is really a sweetheart.

I just lost a beloved Westie in November and another one two years before that. They were wonderful dogs and were very affectionate. They would snuggle with us on the sofa in the evening and loved to be held and cuddled.

Our cockapoo, Addi, is good if you hold her when you are standing or on a chair in the kitchen. However, when you want to hold her on the chair in the family room or on the sofa, she constantly needs to be chewing a toy. When she does not have a chew toy, she will not stay near you or relax. I am in a panic because we want a dog that will snuggle, and she does not seem to want to. My husband and son are upset with her.

Will she ever be calm and a snuggler? I realize she is just a puppy and that her teeth must be bothering her; however, I don't think my Westies were like that at this age. -- H.D., via e-mail

A: I think you're probably forgetting what balls of fire your Westies were as pups. And that's what this girl is -- never forget -- a puppy.

Will she settle down? Certainly! How much, though, is anyone's guess. The fact that you describe her as a "sweetheart" and say she likes to snuggle sometimes leads me to believe she's on the right track. No one can say for sure, but chances are if you give her love, guidance and training, she'll turn out to be wonderfully snuggly companion.

Until then, be patient and try to enjoy her puppyhood. It doesn't last forever.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

You'd think that if you discovered the hands-down, bar-none best way for dealing with a pet who has been skunked, you'd be able to sell your formula for a tidy sum and be set for life, right?

Wrong. At least, that's not the way it worked for chemist Paul Krebaum, who found just such a magic formula a few years ago -- and hasn't gained anything but the gratitude of pet lovers for his troubles.

First the formula, then the story.

Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (available from any drugstore), 1/4 cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate for you science types) and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Rinse thoroughly with tap water.

The result is astonishing.

Unfortunately, so will be the explosion if you made up the solution and then tried to bottle it. The merging of the hydrogen peroxide and baking soda creates lots of oxygen in a big hurry. This chemical reaction is key to how the solution works, but it's also fierce enough to explode in a closed container.

Which is why Paul Krebaum hasn't capitalized on his discovery. There's just no way to sell something you can't put in a bottle.

And it's a shame, too, because the man deserves some kind of reward. The stuff really works. Not like tomato juice, which dampens the odor a little and leaves you with a slightly less-stinky pink dog. Commercial preparations seem to fare a little better, but even with them it's the passing of time that seems to finally do the trick.

But the hydrogen peroxide mix? Skunk be gone!

The trick is the oxygen, which grabs the molecules that go into that horrid smell. Once snagged, the smell is neutralized. Simple chemistry, really.

Since Krebaum published his findings in a trade journal in 1993, his magic formula has spread far and wide, offered up by agriculture officials and hunting magazines, and touted by folks on the Internet. The Chicago Tribune gave him a good write-up in 1994 that got picked up by newspapers all over the country. In it, he called his mix a "free-gift-to-humanity type deal."

I first heard about this formula a couple of years ago and read reports from many who raved about it. I made up the solution to see what it was like, but never got lucky enough to try it on one of my dogs. They just don't seem all that interested in skunks when we're walking in the wooded area near our home.

Finally, a friend called to tell me her setter had been skunked and to ask my advice. At last! The chance to try out the mix.

I must admit she didn't share my enthusiasm, at least not at first. She had already bathed the dog in soap and water. She had poured eight quarts of tomato juice over him. And still he smelled. So I told her about Paul Krebaum's miracle skunk cure.

A couple of hours later, Krebaum had another believer. The dog slept on the bed that night.

I suppose it's not very practical to suggest that everyone who's grateful to Paul Krebaum send him a few bits to make up for some of the money he'll never make on his miracle skunk cure. So maybe it would be nice if you save this article for when you'll need it, and when you do, say a few silent words of thanks to the man who'll get you out of one stinky fix.

PETS ON THE WEB

Macaws are among the most popular of pet birds, known for their stunning good looks and outgoing personalities. Most people are familiar with the blue-and-gold macaw, but several other macaw species are available as pets, from the small mini-macaws to the largest of all pet birds, the hyacinth. One Web site that can help you sort it all out is Those Magnificent Macaws (www.exoticbird.com). Jam-packed with information and well-organized as well, the site offers a good overview of species, health care and nutrition, and other available resources. Lots of good pictures, too. My only complaint would be that the blue-on-black type is hard to read. But it's a small quibble about an otherwise fine Internet resource.

THE SCOOP

Puppies have 28 baby (or deciduous) teeth that give way to 42 permanent ones by the time a dog's about 4 months old. Pet owners are generally glad to see those needle-teeth go, but you do need to make sure the transition is a complete one. Sometimes baby teeth are retained, a situation that can cause misalignment of the permanent teeth, incorrect development of the jaw and infections. Check your puppy's mouth frequently, watching for "double rows" that indicate retained teeth. Talk to your veterinarian about any abnormal developments -- some stubborn baby teeth need to be permanently removed.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have two house rabbits, both neutered. They have free run of our apartment, which has been as bunny-proofed as it can be. We provide them with lots of alfalfa, chew sticks, dried pine cones, pellets and treats. We even built a "tree house" for them similar to a multilevel cat house, but with lots of untreated exposed wood to nibble and scratch. They love it and spend most of their time curled up together inside the little house at the top.

Even with all this, they still seem as if they don't have enough to entertain them. We spend as much time as possible lying on the floor when we watch TV because they enjoy climbing all over us.

I just would love some easy-to-find (or make) toy ideas to keep my little guys busy and avoid the boredom that usually leads to mischief. Any suggestions? -- M.B., via e-mail

A: What lucky buns! And your instincts are right on the money: Your guys need more toys. The wonderful House Rabbit Society offers quite a few tried-and-true suggestions, most of them costing little or nothing at all.

Cardboard in all forms can be great fun. Try boxes for chewing on or hiding in. The cores of toilet paper or paper towel rolls are likewise great for chewing on as well as batting around. For variety, fill the boxes full of shredded paper, junk mail (at last, a use for it), old magazines or straw.

Old phone directories are great for shredding, as are untreated wicker baskets (again, filled with chewables). Untreated grass doormats are fun, too.

Toys made for other pets will work well for rabbits. Parrot toys, especially, are designed to be gleefully destroyed and can be hung on the side of cages to make your bunnies work to get them. Hard-rubber Kong toys sized for small dogs are great for pushing around, as are plastic balls meant for cats. The hard-plastic tops of laundry detergent and softener bottles (clean well beforehand) are perfect for batting around, and you can't beat the price.

The House Rabbit Society is the most incredible resource imaginable for people who love these affectionate and playful pets. Membership ($18 annually) supports the nonprofit group's effort to rescue and place unwanted rabbits, and comes with a quarterly newsletter that offers great ideas for taking the best care possible of the ever-growing number of indoor rabbits. For more information, write to the HRS at P.O. Box 1201, Alameda, CA 94501; or visit the Web site at www.rabbit.org.

Q: I've been seeing ads in magazines for heartworm pills for cats. I give them monthly to my dogs, but should my cats get them, too? -- M.U., via e-mail

A: There are times when it's convenient to have one of the world's top veterinary cardiologists in your circle of friends, and this is one of them. Dr. Paul D. Pion, CEO of the Veterinary Information Network (and my "Cats For Dummies" co-author), says the answer depends on where you live. Heartworms are everywhere in places like Florida and Texas, and in those places, says Pion, he'd recommend preventive medication. In other places, heartworm is uncommon in dogs and unheard-of in cats, so preventive measures aren't so important.

The cost of not giving medications might be high, though, warns Pion. Although heartworm infestations are rare in cats, they are also not easily treated. In cats and dogs both, preventing heartworm is a much safer course than treating an animal once it has the pests.

The bottom line? If you live where the pest is very common in dogs, it may well be prudent to protect your cat as well as your dogs. Talk to your veterinarian about the risks in your area.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600