pets

Road Rage Murder of Beloved Pet Is Crime Against Humanity

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 19th, 2000

Young. Male. White. Drives a black sport-utility vehicle with Virginia plates. Has a goatee (or did). Who I've just described is the most hated person in America, at least as far as anyone who cares about animals is concerned. This is the man who, in an apparent fit of road rage, reached into Sara McBurnett's car after a fender-bender a few weeks ago, grabbed her little dog, Leo, and threw him under the wheels of rushing cars outside the airport in San Jose, Calif.

Like many animal lovers, I can't get the scene out of my mind. I see it and hear it almost as vividly as if I'd been the victim. I can imagine what McBurnett felt when she saw Leo run over, and it hits me like a blow to the stomach. I can feel the waves of grief she endured after he died at a nearby emergency room. A happy, outgoing little dog, a loving companion for a decade, has been killed in a way that none of us could imagine in our nightmares. And it could have happened to any of us.

My heart breaks for this woman. And I know that catching the man who did this will never, ever change the reality of those hellish moments for her. Or for us.

I don't understand why some people are angry because so much attention has been paid to this crime. Why do people get so upset about violence involving an animal, they demand to know, when there are plenty of crimes against people we don't get so worked up about? These folks angrily accuse anyone who cares about animals of not caring about people.

They're missing the point. This is a case of cruelty against an animal, to be sure, but it's also a crime against a human being: Sara McBurnett. Leo's death was brutal, and his suffering should not be overlooked. But his pain is also over, which is more than you can say about his owner's suffering.

She will never forget what happened. I'm not sure I can, either. And all of us have to live with the knowledge that somewhere out there is a man so full of hatred and anger that he chose to hurt another human being in the worst way he could, by causing an animal she loved to die violently before her eyes.

If that isn't a crime against a human being, I don't know what is.

Crime against animals may now and then generate a lot of attention, but they're not treated all that seriously in the end. Law enforcement can't get all that worked up about animal cruelty when there are "more important" crimes out there, and the courts are often prone to a "boys will be boys" approach to young offenders. And yet cruelty against animals is one of the most surefire ways to predict a future of violence against people.

I'll grant you that most of the people who've donated tens of thousand to a reward fund to capture Leo's killer weren't looking at the bigger picture when they wrote their checks. But their gut instincts were correct: This is a crime we should care about. This is a criminal who should be punished to the fullest extent possible.

Sending this man to jail won't change what happened, but it will send a message to at least one person -- and probably many more -- that we will not and cannot tolerate such cruelty against one of our own.

And that's a message we all should get behind.

PETS ON THE WEB

The School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of California at Davis was the first to launch a pet-loss support hot line. Staffed by veterinary students, the hot line has provided thousands of pet lovers with the help they need to get through the loss of a beloved pet. The UCD hot-line staff has pulled together a wonderful collection of pet-loss resources onto its Web site (www.vetnet.ucdavis.edu/petloss/index.htm). The site includes information on the hot line, as well as articles on the topic of pet loss and books to help both adults and children through a difficult time. Most veterinary schools and colleges now have hot lines and other pet-loss resources, but UCD remains in the forefront.

THE SCOOP

Cats have always meant trouble to allergy sufferers, some of whom find their reaction to cats severe enough to send them to the emergency room. But are some cats worse than others when it comes to triggering an attack? The answer is yes, according to an intriguing new study. The upshot? The darker the cat, the worse the allergy. The study's author, Dr. Arlene Schneider of Brooklyn, N.Y.'s Long Island College Hospital, said the results were interesting enough for further research (the original report dealt with a small sample of only 60 people). While it's likely too soon to draw any definitive conclusions, it wouldn't hurt to factor in coat color if your family includes an allergy sufferer and you're looking to adopt a cat or kitten.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I enjoyed your recent column on parrots. I liked the excellent points you made about training, the benefits of hand-rearing, etc. Another useful point that the general public still needs education on is that parrots are generally not "beginner" pets, particularly macaws and the showier cockatoos.

I would encourage you to periodically remind readers of the growing number of parrot-rescue operations. Though some consider these groups as misguided, evangelistic, etc., they do address a growing problem. Educating potential parrot owners of the complex nature of the birds, their often demanding habits and their exceptional life spans could help reduce the burden on parrot-rescue operations. -- Jim Millam, Director, Psittacine Research Project, University of California, Davis

A: Thanks for your note. I visited a model parrot-rescue program last summer, the Gabriel Foundation in Snowmass, Colo., and got an earful from founder Julie Murad about the groups that weren't up to snuff. Still, the fact that such groups exist and are trying to help is good news that will only get better.

And you're right that the best news of all would be for people to fully consider the responsibilities involved with adopting a pet whose life span can equal their own. Big parrots are not easy pets to live with, for all their many charms. They're loud, messy and moody, and expensive to attain and maintain. These facts definitely need to be considered beforehand.

For many people, a better choice is a small parrot, especially a budgie, lovebird or cockatiel. They're great companions without presenting the challenges their larger relatives represent.

Note to readers: The Psittacine Research Project has a nifty Web site (http://animalscience.ucdavis.edu/research/parrot/) that includes information on the program and on its free newsletter, the Exotic Bird Report. You can also write for information: Psittacine Research Project, Department of Animal Science, University of California at Davis 95616-8521.

Q: I would like to get a dog from a shelter or rescue league, but I am concerned about the dog's background. I currently have a Sheltie whom I rescued at the age of 1 from an abusive household. He has some psychological problems that are sometimes severe. I don't think I can deal with another dog with major problems. Is there any way I can be sure of a dog's background if they are from a shelter or rescue league? -- M.H., via e-mail

A: Most rescue groups or shelters are happy to share everything they know with prospective adopters. That's because they realize a pet has a better chance of making it in a new home if the adopters know about potential problems beforehand.

Is the information accurate? Not always. Some people avoid admitting to behavior or health problems because they feel the animal won't get a second chance if they do. Others make a good pet seem bad because they're trying to justify (to themselves) the abandonment of the animal.

A good shelter or rescue group takes such information with a grain of salt. They do their own evaluations and add those to the reports from the previous owners. And they work one-on-one with adopters to find the best match.

My advice would be to discuss your concerns with your local shelter or rescue group, and take your time (and their advice) in selecting a new dog. Having done rescue for a few years, I know full well how many wonderful animals are waiting for a second chance. You'll find one!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Keep Your Pet's Mess to a Minimum With These Tips

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 12th, 2000

My friends in the Midwest write that the snow is finally melting, and that their joy at the prospect of spring is lessened somewhat by the mud their dogs track in constantly. Even where I live, in generally sunny Northern California, the every-other-day rainstorms have me likewise tracking dogs through the house with old bath towels.

I fondly remember the days when I had one smallish dog, Lance, and he waited at the door for his paws to be wiped, lifting each in turn to make the job easier. Sure, I could train the three I have now to do the same, but I think about it only when it rains.

Mud isn't the only problem pet lovers deal with, of course. In fact, I've long considered that one of the great questions of our time is why in a house that's mostly tile and hardwood floors do dogs and cats choose the only piece of carpeting around when they feel the need to vomit?

While you're pondering that, let me offer some tried-and-true tips for keeping pet mess to a minimum.

-- Search and destroy past messes. Sometimes you can see them and not smell them; other times you can smell them and not see them. Chances are your pet knows where they are -- and will want to update the odor. Pet-supply outlets offer black lights that show old messes you might not be able to see. Veterinarians and trainers sometimes have these available for renting. Surface cleaning isn't enough. If the mess has soaked through, you must pull up the carpet and clean or replace the padding below.

-- Catch what you can. Put mats everywhere: Inside and outside of doors, under dishes and anywhere else that messes happen. If you want to experiment with color, look for car mats. They're easy to clean and come in a few colors besides basic black.

-- Don't delay cleanups. When accidents occur, you must clean them up promptly and thoroughly. Messes are easier to clean when they're fresh, and are less likely to leave a permanent stain.

-- Don't use ammonia-based cleaners on pet messes. They smell like urine to a pet -- ammonia being one of the byproducts of decomposing pet waste. So instead of making the area smell clean, ammonia products make a mess site seem even more attractive to your pet.

Instead, use products designed for pet messes. These liquid products -- Nature's Miracle, Simple Solution, Fresh 'N' Clean and Nilodor are a few on the market -- have enzymes that break down organic wastes and neutralize odors. For fresh urine, you can make up a good cleaner on your own. Dog-lover Anne Cotton of Massachusetts has a good recipe: One quart hot water from the faucet, one teaspoon Ivory dish soap, one teaspoon white vinegar (it neutralizes the odor). Shake a bit. Blot the area with paper towels, then wet with the cleaner to cover but not enough to soak the area. Let sit 15 minutes, then blot again.

I keep a "pet mess kit" -- paper towels, old bath towels and cleaning solutions -- in a bucket in the hall closet. I'm not the neatest person around, but my house is as clean as it can be with three muddy dogs tracking in and out. I'm proud of that.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Spinone Italiano is the latest breed to gain full status at the American Kennel Club, and starting in September the fuzzy dogs will be eligible to pursue AKC championships. The Spinone is a large dog with thick, wiry coat and an appealing fuzzy face. Breeders brag about the dogs' temperament and hunting ability, and insist that any potential owners have a high tolerance for messiness -- the Spinone is no dog for the white-carpet set. The Spinone Club of America's Web site (www.spinone.com) offers everything you could possibly want to know about the breed, and includes plenty of pictures and experiences from loving owners.

THE SCOOP

Bigger is better when it comes to buying a bird cage. A good rule of thumb: Whatever the pet store labels for the bird you choose, pick the next size up, at the very least. A cockatiel, for example, will be happier in a cage made for a small to midsized parrot. Buying the biggest cage you can manage does come with a word of caution, though: Make sure the bar spacing is appropriate for your bird. Your bird should not be able to fit his head between the bars. Basic spacing for a cockatiel is 3/4-inch. Finches need less room between bars, while Amazons, Macaws and other large parrots need more.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We recently bought a hand-fed cockatoo from a local breeder. It was a big outlay, not just for the bird, but also the cage, a play gym, toys, perches and more. She recommends buying an air cleaner, too. But before we pull out the credit card again, we want an assurance that this is really necessary. -- D.B., via e-mail

A: Paying attention to air quality is good for your bird, and good for you, too. Some species of pet birds --- your cockatoo is perhaps the best example -- give off a lot of feather dust, a powdery natural grooming material that originates from the powderdown feathers over the flank and hip areas. (Other dusty species include the cockatiel and the African grey parrot.)

One dusty bird can really reduce the air quality of a room. More than one can make it downright unbreathable for both you and your birds. (Remember: Feather dust is not a problem when a bird's in a natural environment outside.) It's a matter of personal preference, of course, but if you're living with one or more dusty birds, I agree with your breeder: Go for the air filter. You and your bird will both breathe better for your decision, and you can look forward to a reduction in your home's dusting requirements.

Another related item to consider is a humidifier. Our climate-controlled houses are often too dry for our birds, many of whom are of species most at home in tropical rainforests. Daily misting of your bird is a great idea but so, too, is keeping the moisture content of the air up with a humidifier. If you live in Hawaii or South Florida or another tropical environment, lack of humidity isn't a concern. In other parts of the country, however, dry air can make your bird uncomfortable.

Q: In response to the reader with the "outdoor Persian," we do have an indoor Persian who gets hairballs so bad that he vomits several times daily. Since he is not shown, we now shave him with professional pet trimmers. He is so happy. Although he is almost 12, he acts like a kitten once we are complete.

His appearance is comical when first trimmed: big head, fluffy tail, large legs and paws and a slim, stylish body. His coat is soft and velvety when growing out. Once it reaches approximately 3/4 to 1 inch (in about two months), we trim again. He is used to it and does not fuss much if we proceed quickly. -- E.Y. via e-mail

A: Nothing succeeds like excess, and that's true in a lot of dog and cat breeds. Generations of breeding for lots of showy coat have produced animals who are at least a part-time job to maintain in top form. Fine for show people, but not for pet owners -- which is why there's plenty of business for groomers.

If you cannot or don't want to keep up with the brushing, combing and dematting of a high-maintenance breed on a daily basis, clipping is best solution. Still, it seems sadly counter to the reason why many people buy these breeds in the first place. After all, the long silky coat is part of the appeal of a Persian.

If you want a shorthaired Persian, incidentally, you don't have to shave one. Most people outside the show world don't know that some popular cats come in long- and shorthaired varieties. The oddly named Exotic Shorthair, for example, is really a Persian with short hair. Like the Abyssinian but want a little more coat? Try a Somali.

In all practicality, though, most cat-lovers will find the feline love of their life among the ranks of the homeless. Kitten season is close at hand, and if you're thinking of a visit to your shelter, be sure to factor in the responsibilities that long hair brings when you're choosing your pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

People Are Flocking to Birds for Pets

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 5th, 2000

There has never been a better time to have a parrot as a pet. The hand-raised and well-socialized baby birds available from reputable breeders and bird shops today are a far cry from the days when most pet birds were wild creatures torn from their homes overseas.

Today we know more about proper nutrition, more about preventive health care, more about behavior. And as a result, the potential for an incredible relationship with a parrot -- everything from the smallest budgie to largest macaw -- has never been better.

To make the relationship work, however, you need to set the right tone from the first. You need to assure your new bird that you are a wonderful, kind and fun person, but you also need to gently but firmly establish that you are the boss. This is done through consistent, firm handling and gentle training -- never, ever through punishment.

It's not hard, if you follow some basic guidelines:

-- Learn when to leave your bird alone. Birds are emotional and sometimes quite moody, and there are times when it's best just to let them be. As you come to know your bird better, you'll be able to identify clearly the times when he wants to be with you and when he wants to be left alone. Give him space when he needs it.

-- Control your bird's comings and goings. Instead of opening the cage door to let your pet out, ask your bird to step up onto your hand and then bring him out. Likewise, give the "step up" command when it's time to put your bird back in his cage. This routine may seem like no big deal to you, but you're sending a message of leadership to your bird.

-- Keep training sessions short and upbeat. Parrots are highly intelligent, but they don't have the longest attention spans. They get bored easily. Several short interactive sessions a day -- just a couple minutes at a time -- are better than one or two long ones.

-- Don't let your bird ignore a command. If you say "step up," persist until your bird complies, or you'll set yourself up for trouble down the road. Birds are very smart, and if they figure a way around you, they'll take it. Once your leadership starts to erode, you'll have a hard time reclaiming your position.

-- Keep your bird at a level lower than your head. In the bird world, higher birds are leader birds. In the beginning, keep your bird's cage and play gyms below the level of your chin. When playing with your bird, keep your arm low, too, and don't let your bird on your shoulder. Later in your relationship you may allow your bird higher perches if he's not too much of a social-climber. Some birds, though, always need to be kept "down" to prevent misbehavior and aggression.

-- Talk to your bird. Make eye contact and say anything or everything that's on your mind. Birds learn by repetition and by mimicry, so start "naming" things for your bird. For example, when you want to pet your bird, ask him if it's OK, saying something like, "Want a pet?" or "Want a tickle?" or even "Tickle, tickle?" When your bird makes the connection, he'll drop his head to ask for petting -- or he may even use the phrase you've chosen!

Above all, don't ruin any good habits the breeder instilled in your bird by letting your pet become a demanding brat. Set limits and stick to them. Your bird will love you for it.

PETS ON THE WEB

No, they're not really pets, but I can't imagine there's an animal lover out there who doesn't find butterflies appealing. The North American Butterfly Association Web site (www.naba.org) offers a great deal of useful information, including some you might not have thought of on your own. For example, the NABA explains why the current fad of releasing butterflies at weddings isn't such a good idea for the environment or the butterflies themselves. The site also answers questions on butterflies, explains where and how to see them in your area, and offers some useful links to other butterfly-related spots on the Web. Also included is information on how to join this nonprofit group.

THE SCOOP

The end of winter means wet dogs, whether it's from melting snow or the rains that herald the coming of spring. And wet dogs mean wet-dog smell, one of the nastier odors around. I live with wet-dog smell all year-round -- it's part of the deal when you share your life with retrievers -- but find the smell intolerable in the winter only, when the house is closed up tight. The best wet-dog odor-chaser I've found is OrangeMate Mist, a non-aerosol product made from citrus extract. (The same company also makes the product with lime or lemon extract.) I keep a can in the car and two in the house, and find that nothing chases away wet-dog smell more quickly. The products can be found in grocery or hardware stores, or from home catalogs such as The Vermont Country Store (802-362-8440). The 7-ounce size retails for about $10, but it lasts forever.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: People should go to the pound to adopt a pet and forget how wonderfully pretentious they will be with an artificially expensive purebred. We should help the growing pet population by adopting the available dogs instead of getting one from a reputable or backyard breeder. Put these people out of business, I say! - M.R., via e-mail

A: This is where good people can agree to disagree. While I have always supported shelters and rescue groups, I also recognize that some people are going to want a purebred animal. There's nothing wrong with that choice. Purebreds offer predictability in terms of size, appearance and temperament. For some people, predictability is important.

It's important to remember, though, that it's not an either-or situation -- either you get a purebred or you go to a shelter. The facts are quite the opposite: You can find plenty of purebreds in shelters! A good place to find any pet is a shelter or rescue group, always. The shelters are full of animals, purebred and mixed, who'd be wonderful pets and desperately need a second chance.

But if someone wants a purebred puppy, making a careful choice in regard to the breeder is very important. If you buy from a reputable breeder, you greatly lessen the possibility of getting an animal with health or temperament problems. You also send a message to careless breeders and puppy-mill operators.

The bottom line is to take your time, do your homework, and consider all the possibilities. Shelters and rescue groups offer wonderful dogs, as do reputable breeders. As for the rest -- I wouldn't recommend them.

Q: Our 15-year-old male cat died recently, leaving a sister, and we're planning to get another kitten. I've heard lots of the basics about how to introduce a kitten, but wondered if gender makes a difference? -- A.S., via e-mail

A: Because older cats do so poorly when stressed, you should think very seriously before introducing a kitten to your household.

A kitten's playful ways just aren't appreciated by a geriatric cat and may prompt behavior problems such as litter-box avoidance or a loss of appetite -- the latter a serious health concern in all cats, but especially in older ones.

You know your cat best, though. If she's in good health and her outlook is friendly and playful, then a new addition might be OK. I don't think the gender of the new kitten will make that much difference.

The key to introducing cats is to do it slowly and let them have their own space. When you're gone, keep the kitten in a separate room, with food, water, toys, a scratching post and a litter box. That way your older cat can have some peace.

When you're home to mediate, let the pair work things out on their own as much as possible. Don't thrust the new kitten on your old cat. Keep the kitten occupied with play -- chasing a toy on a string is great fun. All the energy you can help the kitten burn in play will be energy not spent pestering your older cat.

If you're not sure your cat will welcome a kitten, don't get one. Let her be the special one for the rest of her life, and consider a new kitten after she's gone.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

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