Why does housetraining fail? That's the question a lot of people ask themselves every day, usually while cleaning up after a growing puppy they ruefully admit is only "partially" housetrained, which is not really housetrained at all.

If you're struggling with a Christmas puppy who just doesn't seem to be catching on, take some time to review your battle plan, with an eye toward avoiding those traps that sabotage your efforts.

First among these traps is using a negative approach to housetraining. Successful housetraining requires setting up a potty schedule, limiting your pup's roaming options to areas you can supervise, showing your pup the area you want him to use, and praising him for going there. Generations may have followed the old "shove his nose in it and swat" method, but that doesn't work as well as a positive approach. You simply must go out with your puppy and praise him for getting it right. You're not being fair otherwise.

Even with a positive approach, people make mistakes. Here are a few things to remember:

-- Understand your puppy's physical limitations. Little puppies have little storage capability and need to be taken out frequently. Do not expect growing dogs to be able to "hold it" as long as a healthy adult dog can. If you must leave your puppy for the day, limit his wandering to a small area and put down newspapers to make cleanup easier. Don't punish him for any messes he makes while you're gone. Take him outside, let him relieve himself and praise. And clean up the mess inside without comment.

-- Remember how puppies work. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, and after playing. Make sure to take your puppy out then. Do not offer food and water on demand. Instead, offer them at regular intervals to help predict when your pup will need a trip outside.

-- Clean up mistakes thoroughly. What you can't see, a puppy can still smell -- and smells invite repeat business. Keep commercial products on hand that use enzyme action to break down the smell. White vinegar also does a great job of neutralizing the odor of urine. Don't use an ammonia-based product though: Ammonia smells like one of the components in urine to a pet.

-- Limit your puppy's wanderings. You wouldn't let a toddler explore your entire house without supervision; don't let your puppy, either. Close doors and use baby gates to keep your pup where your can keep an eye on him. That way, if you see him start to make a mistake, you can whisk him outside and praise him for finishing the job where you want him to.

-- Be patient and consistent. While some dogs seem to housetrain themselves, others are slower to learn. Just keep working at it.

If you're still struggling after a month or so (and especially if you're having housetraining problems with a grown dog), have your veterinarian check to make sure your dog has no health problems, and then ask for a referral to a behaviorist.

You can also get some excellent advice in two books -- one old, one new -- on the subject that go a long way toward explaining why your dog behaves the way he does. The late Job Michael Evans' work on the subject, "The Evans Guide for Housetraining Your Dog" (IDG Books Worldwide, $17.95), is a classic that's helped convert many recalcitrant Rovers. "Housetrain Your Dog Now" (Plume, $12.95), by Krista Cantrell, is a readable new book that stresses empathy and positive training.

PETS ON THE WEB

"Time spent cuddling hedgehogs is not deducted from one's life span!" So announces the Hedgehog Hollow Web site (http://hedgehoghollow.com/), a wonderful collection of whimsy and practical advice for fanciers of these prickly looking little animals. The host of this page is also the author of the Internet's Hedgehog FAQ (frequently asked questions), and you'll find links to the multi-part document on the site. You'll also find links to mailing lists and other hedgehog sites, along with lots of cute pictures and stories. Hedgehogs are illegal in some states (including California), but if you live where you can have one and have been wanting to learn more, this Web site is a great place to start.

THE SCOOP

Hairballs are normal for cats, as is watching where you walk to avoid the disgusting "gifts" that always seem to be left on the most expensive rugs in the house. If the problem is severe, your veterinarian may suggest the use of a mild laxative to help the hairballs pass through your cat's system.

You should also try combing your cat more frequently to remove excess hair. And you might try increasing the fiber in your cat's diet -- adding a little canned pumpkin daily is a great way that many cats enjoy.

Don't let your cat become a laxative junkie, as daily use decreases the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins. Hairball remedies should not be used more than twice weekly except on the advice of your veterinarian.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My sister is allergic to cats and dogs. But as she has gotten older, that seems to have gone away. (She visits friends who have two very big dogs, but though they shed hair all over the floor and couch, she doesn't have any allergic reaction.)

Are there any kinds of cats with fur that won't make her sneeze? I really want a cat, but not if it's going to make my sister sick. -- S.F., via e-mail

A: A great many people who can tolerate exposure to dogs can't manage any time at all with cats before showing allergic reactions. Allergies to cats are so prevalent and so severe that they've been suggested as one of the factors in the increase in asthma, especially since more cats than ever before spend their lives inside.

Your sister may well be able to tolerate dogs for a certain period of time, but that doesn't mean she'll be able to live with one. And it certainly doesn't mean she'll be able to tolerate a cat. Any cat, by the way, because there's no such thing as a cat who isn't a potential allergy trigger. That's because it's not fur that causes the problem, but an ingredient in cat saliva that gets deposited on fur when the animal grooms and that spreads as flakes of skin and secretions commonly called "dander."

Some people survive well enough with animals and allergies, but it does require some effort. Some things that help include:

-- Keeping animals clean. A weekly water bath (no soap needed) for cats has been shown to reduce levels of dander and may make living with a cat workable. It's best if a non-allergic member of the family handles the pet-grooming chores.

-- Keeping animals out of sleeping areas at all times. While it's hard to give up the hot-water-bottle pleasures of sleeping with a pet on the bed, your body needs a break from the stress of fighting off allergens.

-- Limiting exposures to other allergens. Keeping all your allergies under control can help your body handle the exposure to a pet.

Most important is to work with an allergist who's willing to work with you. The one whose advice starts and ends with "your cat needs a new home" probably isn't the one to choose. Be aware, however, that that advice may well end up being the only thing that helps. Some people are just not meant to share their lives with furry animals.

Q: I'm tired of my cat knocking things off the shelves! I am a collector and have a lot of glass figurines, a few of which have been broken. What can I do to protect them from Calypso? - B.G., via e-mail

A: Practically speaking, you can't keep cats on the ground. The best you can do is display your treasures in ways that keep them safe or, at least, safer.

You might consider moving your collection to a single room and keeping the door closed when you're not around to supervise. Glass-fronted book cases are another option for keeping collectibles and cats apart.

Although it's probably best to keep your most valuable pieces where your cat can't get to them at all, other objects can be made safer from the wanderings of clumsy cats. Double-sided tape or Velcro can be used to "lock" objects in place on shelves, and can be found at any home-supply store. You can also try a product called Quake Hold, a putty that seals objects to their display surface. Quake Hold can be hard to find outside of earthquake-prone California, but your hardware store may be able to order some for you.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

You can see in your puppy today what our ancestors saw when this astonishing trans-species relationship was just forming. In the eyes of that wolf cub thousands of years ago was the same thing that anyone who has ever taken home a puppy since can't help but notice: the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

There's no doubt, though, that many of these beautiful beginnings go badly wrong, and experts spend a great deal of time trying to find out why in hopes of stemming the flow of half-grown dogs into the nation's shelters. Wrong choices, bad timing and poor planning all play a part, but in many instances "too little" is the sorry epitaph that marks the end of a once-promising relationship. Too little time, too little training.

You don't want this to happen to you and your new puppy. Your concern is for your puppy and making sure he turns out the way you want him to. You don't want to be living with a canine terror a year from now, and you certainly don't want to be finding him another home because you can't handle him anymore.

You can make up a lot of ground with a puppy who wasn't raised under the best of circumstances before you got him, or you can totally undo the careful breeding and handling of your pup by a knowledgeable and reputable breeder. The decision is completely up to you. Ignore your puppy or raise him wrong, and you'll both be sorry.

Forget everything you ever heard about starting training at 6 months. Your puppy starts learning the moment he's born. By the time you get him, at 7 to 10 weeks of age, he's as absorbent as a bath towel, taking in the sights and sounds of his world and trying to figure out his place in it. The answer he arrives at on his own may be quite different from the one you want him to have, which is why you need to be involved in the process.

It's not that complicated, really. Your puppy wants to be part of your family, and he craves loving leadership. Just keep a few things in mind as you enjoy your youngster.

-- Bond with your puppy. Dogs are social animals. Don't throw your pup into the back yard, however nice the dog house you've put there. Make your pup a member of your family.

-- Socialize your puppy. Be careful with this until all the puppy shots are done -- no parks or areas where other dogs frequent. You don't want your puppy getting sick. But after the veterinarian gives the go-ahead, pull out all the stops. Expose your pup to all the sights, sounds, smells, people and other animals that you can.

-- Never let your puppy do anything you wouldn't want a grown dog to do. Puppies jumping up are cute. Dogs doing the same are not. It's always easier to prevent a problem than to try to fix it later.

-- Teach your puppy using positive methods, and make training fun! The dog-training world has made great strides in developing positive training techniques. Find a book, a tape, a class -- or all three -- that will help you make the most of these exciting new ways to train. And don't overlook a puppy class: They're great for socialization.

-- Realize your puppy will make mistakes, and don't get angry when he does. Puppies are babies! Don't expect perfection and don't be heavy-handed. It's better to distract and redirect puppies than to punish them.

Love your puppy, play with your puppy, enjoy your puppy. But you should always -- always -- be thinking of how you're molding this little baby into the confident, obedient dog of your dreams. Time passes all too quickly in the life a puppy. A couple of critical weeks, once past, are gone forever. So take the time. Make the effort. And don't delay.

Next week I'll give you some tips for house-training that pup.

PETS ON THE WEB

Still struggling with a name? Try the Web site A Zillion Puppy Dog Names (www.puppyshop.com/names/names.htm). Not a zillion, whatever that is, but a respectable amount, in several different categories such as "double names" (Cloak and Dagger), triple names (April, May and June), and names by country of origin (German names for German breeds, Irish names for Irish breeds and so on). Don't forget checking out name books for human babies, too. I have quite a few of them, including a dog-eared one I bought when 13-year-old Andy joined my family. He came within a hair's breadth of being named "Robin," as the scribbles in the margin clearly reveal.

THE SCOOP

Who knows what pets like to listen to? At the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary in Kanab, Utah, they play New Age music for their feline residents. The natural sounds -- such as those of birds -- keep them entertained, they say. I don't know about that, but I can vouch that the three-CD set of "Pet Music" kept me entertained. Marketed to reduce pet stress and separation anxiety, the collection offers more than three hours of soothing sounds, a nice mix of instrumentals and nature. You can find the collection for $19.99 (and often less) at pet-supply stores, in catalogs or from online retailers.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a puppy who was born with his back legs paralyzed. He is in need of a dog wheelchair. I have seen a device on TV that lets a dog roam free, but no one has said how to get one. My puppy is suffering. You may have information I cannot get my hands on. Please help. -- D.P., via e-mail

A: The K9 Cart Co. has been making this product for more than 30 years, saving the lives of hundreds of dogs. The carts support and gently cradle the hind end of impaired dogs and allow them to propel themselves forward with their front legs. Prices for the custom-built carts range from $220 to $430 (extra for options such as mountain bike tires for more active dogs). To reach K9 Carts, call 1-800-578-6960, or visit the Web at www.k9carts.com.

You will run into people who will question your decision to put your dog into such a device. Some will think it's silly, or even disgusting, and some will even think it's cruel. That's their problem! Don't let the naysayers dissuade you. I have met a few dogs who use carts for mobility, and they have led happy lives and continue to bring joy into the lives of their human caretakers. Caring for such a dog requires a greater level of commitment, but if you are up to the challenge, let your heart be your guide.

Q: My Siamese cat is ruining my sweaters! She chews big holes in them, and I can't stand to lose any more. How can I get her to stop? - H.M., via e-mail

A: Some cats like to chew and suck on clothes, especially wool sweaters -- a problem behaviorists call wool-chewing or fabric chewing, since some cats are just as fond of cotton or other fabrics. This destructive habit was originally thought to be associated with cats who'd been weaned too young, but now behaviorists believe that the tendency is genetic and more common in some breeds or mixes than in others. The primary culprits are Siamese and other so-called "Oriental" breeds such as the Burmese. No one knows why these breeds and mixes are more likely than others to indulge in this habit.

Increasing fiber in the diet by adding a teaspoon of canned pumpkin daily eases these tendencies, as may offering substitute chew articles such as sheepskin-covered dog toys. Regular, active play sessions will rid your cat of some of her excess energy. A veterinary behaviorist may also be able to help, with the prescribing of anti-obsessive medication and the development of a specific behavior-modification program for your pet. It's a cheaper option than a drawer full of sweaters, that's for sure!

Cheaper still is changing your own behavior. Keep the objects of your cat's obsession out of reach in closed hampers or drawers.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

You don't need to know the difference between a grand champion and a triple champion, or a Maine coon or Norwegian forest, to enjoy a day at a cat show. Bring your natural curiosity and your love of cats, and you can have a wonderful time.

Here are a few tips to make a trip to a cat show easier and more useful:

-- Wear comfortable, casual clothes that have a little flexibility. Show halls are notorious for being too hot or too cold, no matter the outside temperature. Wear something light and carry a sweater, and you're covered either way. Comfortable shoes are important; you're going to be on your feet a lot. Carry a backpack or big purse as well as a notepad and pen. You're sure to run across freebies or buy toys to take home to your cat, and you may meet a breeder you want to talk to after the show. A pad for taking notes and a place to put business cards is a must if you're doing research on adopting a kitten.

-- Be aware of the demands on exhibitors. Most of the cat fanciers love answering questions and talking about cats to the general public, but not in those tense moments before they're going to the show ring. Your first question to any exhibitor should be: "Is this a good time to ask a couple of questions about your cats?" They'll let you know, and if it's not, they can tell you when will be. Never bother an exhibitor who has a cat in her arms. She's almost certainly headed to or coming from the judging ring. And step aside: Cat-show etiquette -- and common sense -- demands that a person carrying a cat has the right-of-way.

-- Be respectful of the health and safety of the cats. Don't ask to pet a cat because you almost certainly won't be allowed to. Breeders are very concerned -- and rightly so -- about the spread of disease. The only people who touch any cats at a show are the people who brought them and the judges, who are careful to sanitize their hands and the judging platform between each cat they handle. On occasion, an exhibitor you're talking to may ask if you'd like to touch her cat. She's likely to ask you to clean your hands before and after, which is a small price to pay for the privilege of petting a cat in silky-soft show condition.

-- Watch at least one class being judged. Unlike dog-show judges, who never share their thoughts with the spectators (or even the competitors, really), cat-show judges consider education an important part of their job. They discuss the good and not-so-good points of each animal as they judge, and many are not only articulate and knowledgeable but witty as well. After the judging is over, most are happy to answer a question or two.

-- Don't forget the vendors. Nearly every show has people on hand to sell cat-related merchandise. You find not only free cat-food samples from major manufacturers, but also hand-crafted toys, scratching posts and cat trees direct from the people who make them. Some of the merchandise is more for cat lovers than for the cats themselves: clothing, jewelry, artwork, books. Neat stuff!

Best of all, a cat show is a special opportunity to see dozens of beautifully groomed cats, not only of the more common breeds, but also of some of the rarest in the world. You can find out about upcoming cat shows in the calendar section of magazines such as Cat Fancy, or visit the best cat site on the Web (www.fanciers.com) and click on Cat Shows, Cat Clubs and Registries.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Delta Society, an organization that supports and promotes such activities as therapy using animals and the use of service dogs by people with disabilities, has pulled together an excellent collection of resources related to pet loss and bereavement. The Web site (www.deltasociety.org/dsn700.htm) offers a bibliography of helpful books, information on bereavement hot lines and support groups around the country, and links to other related sites. The page is just-the-facts-ma'am basic, but it's well organized and easy to navigate. This is one site you should bookmark for the future because you never know when you, or someone you know, will need assistance.

THE SCOOP

Ask any child what to feed a pet bird and the answer will surely be: seeds! Yes, but what does any child know? Seeds are a horrid diet for any pet parrot, from the smallest budgie or lovebird to the largest macaw. High in fat and low in other essential nutrients, seeds can be a contributing factor in cutting a bird's lifespan by half, on average. And yet you can still find seed mixes in pet-supply stores, and you can still buy birds who've eaten seeds all their lives, a situation that makes conversion to a healthier diet more difficult.

What should birds eat? Combine one of the new commercial pellet diets with an ever-changing buffet of fresh vegetables, fruits, and such healthy people foods as pasta, rice and even bits of egg or poultry. Variety is the key. As for seeds, they're good for treats and for training, but only in limited amounts. If you have any questions on nutrition and your bird, talk to a veterinarian who specializes in avian care.

Q: I truly want a West Highland white terrier. I can provide everything that he would need, except a fence. I am constantly being told that I can't own one without a fence. Should I set my heart on another dog? -- U.F., via e-mail

A: You've found yourself dealing with a catch-22 -- you know you want to buy a pup from a reputable breeder, but reputable breeders won't sell to anyone who doesn't meet their requirements, which in many cases include having a fenced yard. Reputable breeders care about what happens to their dogs, and they have to play the odds. People who don't have fenced yards are generally not as good a long-term prospect as dog-owners as are people who have the whole suburban setup.

The key word here is "generally." There are dog owners of all description who couldn't be better at caring for their pets but who don't match the picture of the "ideal" home. You need to find a reputable breeder who'll give you a chance to show you're one of the exceptions, willing to walk your dog two or more times daily, whatever the weather.

Whatever you do, don't take the shortcut of getting a puppy from someone who'll sell to anyone, no questions asked. Like many purebreds, Westies are bedeviled by congenital health problems, and your best chance at avoiding them is to buy from a reputable breeder.

Find someone who considers health and temperament a top priority, and then discuss your situation with that breeder. If you are sincerely interested in and are able to provide for a dog, you should be able to find a reputable breeder who'll take a chance on you.

Q: My husband and I are considering buying a bigger house, but when I think about moving my 12-year-old Miss Kitty, I feel horrible. Would it be cruel to move her this late in life? -- C.M., via e-mail

A: Because cats are so territorial, they have a reputation of being more attached to a house than to the people in it. But anyone who has ever loved a cat knows the bond between cats and their people is a strong one. Don't leave your cat behind.

A week before you start packing, settle your cat into a small room -- a spare bathroom is ideal -- with food, water, toys, a sleeping area and a litter box. You want her kept out of the craziness, and you certainly want to eliminate the possibility of her getting spooked and taking off. Visit her frequently, for play and petting.

When you arrive at the new house, work this technique in reverse, starting her out in a small, enclosed area. As she seems to relax, let her explore more of the house, but don't force her. If she wants to stay under the bed for a week, let her.

I'd recommend converting her to an indoor cat at this point. You'll never get a better chance at a smooth conversion than after a move. If you insist on letting her out, though, do it slowly. Keep her in for a couple of weeks, then go out with her for short periods. When she seems to have her bearings, she can start coming and going as she pleases. Remember, though, you always put your cat at risk when you let her roam free.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600