As New Year's resolutions go, the neck check for your pets is easy. It won't even take all of a commercial break from watching football games to complete, and you'll be getting your pet off to a safe start in the new year.

So what's the "neck check"? It's an annual tradition in my house (and in this column). It's painless way to ensure that a basic safety measure is in place for your pet: well-fitting collars and up-to-date tags.

First, check the collar. Is your dog wearing a "choke" collar? If so, take it off right now and give thanks that your pup is still alive. No dog should ever wear such a collar except under direct supervision. Every year hundreds of dogs are killed struggling to free themselves from a caught choke collar. Their natural instinct to pull away only makes matters worse -- as the collar pulls tighter and tighter, the more the animal struggles. There have even been cases of dogs killed when their choke collars got caught in the teeth of other dogs in play.

For everyday wear, a buckled or snap-together collar is the only way to go.

Even if you have a safe collar on your pet, give it a good look. Is it frayed or worn out? A well-worn collar could give way when you least expect it, letting your pet escape into a dangerous or even deadly situation. Make sure the collar fits properly. Check by seeing how many fingers you can slip between your pet's neck and his collar. Two is about right, although one will do for toy dogs, and three may be needed for largest ones.

If you discover the collar is worn or doesn't fit properly, make a note to get it replaced right away. The selection of collars these days is truly amazing, with all kinds of colors, patterns and materials to complement your pet's natural good looks. For most dogs a flat collar will work well. But if your dog has a ruff, consider a rolled collar to keep the neck hair from being broken.

Did the collar check out? Good! Now about those tags. Implanted microchips are wonderful (all my pets are chipped), but they won't ever replace tags. Make sure your pet has both a valid license and an ID tag with your phone number on it. The tag with your phone number is very important, since few animal-control agencies are equipped to locate pet-owner phone numbers 24 hours a day.

Look at the ID tag. How accurate is the information? Did you move or change your phone number in the last few months? It's easy to forget that any such change needs to be noted on your pet's ID tag.

I've had people argue that theirs is a "backyard" dog or a "house" cat, not likely to escape and therefore not in need of either a tag or a license. To my mind, an ID tag -- at $3 to $5 -- is the best way to protect your pet from a blown-down fence or a door left ajar.

Many people don't like to collar their cats, fearing that their pet will get hung up when jumping. Shelter workers counter that they put to sleep thousands of unclaimed cats -- many of whom are clearly someone's pet -- but they've never seen a cat skeleton hanging by a collar in a tree. Cat collars feature a built-in safety feature: a piece of elastic that will let your cat wriggle free if he gets hung up.

Don't let the days pass by. Collar and tag all your pets. It's one of the best New Year's resolutions you can make where your pets are concerned.

PETS ON THE WEB

The GuideStar Web site (www.guidestar.org) bills itself as "The Donor's Guide to the Charitable Universe." And though it's not everything you could hope for, it's certainly a great start. A project of the nonprofit organization Philanthropic Research Inc., GuideStar lists financial and program information on 620,000 charitable groups, including hundreds of those working with animals. Of course, there are thousands of animal-related charities large and small that are not represented here, but the site is growing and well worth keeping your eye on. Click on "Become a Confident Donor" from the front screen to access articles on how to judge a charity.

THE SCOOP

Looking for a quick breath-freshener for the dog who has eaten something you wish he hadn't? Try a few slices of fresh apple. Most dogs love the sweetness and crispness of apples, especially if you're sharing your apple with your pup. And the fruit does a pretty good job of eliminating doggy breath, albeit temporarily. Of course, if your dog (or cat) has an ongoing problem with bad breath, you need to visit the vet. Cover-ups are no substitute for healthy teeth and gums.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a blue-and-gold macaw that needs to be transported from our previous home on the West Coast to a new home in Florida. How should we handle this? - P.M., via the Internet

A: I asked my "Birds For Dummies" co-author, Dr. Brian L. Speer, to take on this one.

Speer says whether you're going by car or by plane, the first thing you'll need is a good carrier. He recommends altering a dog carrier for the job. Choose one of those made of high-impact plastic and designed for air travel, and make it bird-friendly by fitting it with a perch so your bird is off the floor and able to sit facing the door. For a macaw, the size for a small to medium dog -- not a tiny dog -- will do.

Before any trip you'll need to make sure your bird's wings are clipped and that he's in good health. For air travel, you'll need a health certificate from a veterinarian.

Road trips are fun, says Speer, who used to drive to work every day with his blue-and-gold macaw, Toby. At rest stops, give your bird a chance to get out and stretch his wings. To keep your bird well-hydrated, keep him well-stocked in fruits that have a lot of moisture, such as oranges and apples.

If you decide to go by air, your macaw will be riding in a pressurized cargo hold. Try to book a direct flight if possible, and try to avoid peak travel times. Your airline will have other requirements. Some are federally mandated; others vary from carrier to carrier. Plan to get to the airport early to make everything go smoothly.

As with travel by car, make sure your bird has fruit to keep him hydrated on the journey. Because of the value of a large parrot such as yours, Speer recommends wiring the crate doors shut to thwart would-be birdnappers.

Q: Our dear old cat Puck died a few months ago. We decided the house was too empty without a cat, so we adopted one from the shelter. Slapshot, as we named him, is a friendly orange tabby, and he is adjusting fine except for one thing: He wants to go outside. Puck spent his whole life inside, and we want Slapshot to be an indoor kitty, too. We live on a busy street and it's just too dangerous. But Slapshot has other ideas. He rushes to the door and cries. He has been neutered, by the way, so it's not that. What can we do? -- C.P., via e-mail

A: It is possible to wean a cat from the desire to roam, but it isn't always easy.

The change requires resolve on your part and a determination to provide your new companion with everything he needs to be happy indoors: good food, fresh water, a clean litter box, a scratching post, toys and, most important, your companionship.

Cats are highly territorial; you're going to hear from your cat about any decision to reduce his potential territory. Your cat will be astonished at your stupidity at first: "Hey, you! I can't believe you're so dumb that you forgot how to open the door!" Later, he'll be increasingly annoyed at your failure to serve: "The door! The door! Pay attention! I want something."

Whatever you do, don't give in. If you allow the insistent meows and pointed stares to wear you down to the point of opening the door, you've taught your cat a lesson you'd rather he didn't know: "All I need to do is put up a fuss and I get what I want." If you try to keep him inside again, he's going to be even more obnoxious.

Be patient but firm. Dissuade him from the door with a shot from a spray bottle and keep him occupied with games and attention. If he likes catnip, get a fresh supply to rub on his toys and scratching post.

If you're firm in your resolve, your cat will eventually settle into his new indoor routines in a few weeks.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you've decided to join those indulging in a little Y2K worrying by stocking up on batteries, flashlights and food, it really wouldn't hurt to make sure your pet is covered in the event of an emergency as well.

While no one knows what -- if anything -- will happen when the clocks click over to the year 2000, I figure that if fear drives people to make disaster plans they should have made years ago, then we're all better for it.

First on your list of pet provisions should be food and bottled water, along with any medications your pet normally takes. Make sure you have a couple of weeks' supply on hand at any given time. Better still is to always keep extra in the house, and to rotate your stock to keep it fresh. If you use canned food, make sure the brand you use has pop-top lids, or double-check that you have a non-electric can opener on hand.

You should also keep some basic first-aid supplies on hand, along with a booklet on how to use them. You can find ready-made first-aid kits in many pet-supply stores, catalogs and on Web sites. Pet-Pak Inc. (800-217-PETS; www.petpak.com) makes some fabulous kits you can buy directly, with all the basics packed in a neat plastic container.

Most ingredients of a pet first-aid kit can be found at any good drugstore, though, if you want to collect them on your own. And they're not all that different from what you should keep on hand for yourself.

For dogs and cats, include adhesive tape, Benadryl antihistamine; Betadine antiseptic; buffered aspirin, such as Ascriptin; cotton swabs, balls and rolls; eye wash; tweezers; hydrogen peroxide; cornstarch or styptic powder for minor bleeding (available at pet-supply stores); plastic syringes with needles removed (for administering liquid medications or irrigating wounds; get them from your vet); scissors; sterile gauze, both rolls and pads; syrup of Ipecac; pet thermometer; tranquilizers (as prescribed by your vet); antibiotic ointment; Vet Wrap padded bandages; and water-based lubricating jelly.

For birds, add a pair of needle-nosed pliers for pulling blood feathers, along with a heating pad, and a high-energy liquid (such as Pedialyte) or a ready-to-mix glucose solution. Instead of regular first-aid tape, which sticks to feathers, keep paper or masking tape in the kit. An old towel should also be at hand, for safely restraining your bird.

All pets should have carriers where you can get at them (as opposed to in the far reaches of the basement or rafters of the garage). Leashes, collars and up-to-date ID tags are a must, too. (I also use the 24-hour tracking service of 1-800-HELP4PETS, on the Web at www.help4pets.com.) Muzzles aren't bad to keep around, either, for an injured animal can lash out in pain. You can make one for most dogs out of gauze with a couple of loops around the muzzle and a tie behind the ears. Comfortable ready-made restraints for dogs and cats can be found in many pet-supply catalogs.

The end of the year is a good time to put household records in order, and that has a role in emergency planning, too. Make a folder for each pet, and put all pertinent information inside: medical records, registration papers, pictures, and information on emergency contacts if you're not available. Make a duplicate file and trade folders with a pet-loving neighbor or friend so your pets have a "godparent" in case of an emergency.

Y2K or not, chances are you'll never need to rely on any of your preparations. But if you ever need to, your pet will be better off for the time you spend now planning for the worst. And so will you.

PETS ON THE WEB

Elizabeth Cusulas' Doggy Carols page (www.ddc.com/waggers/carols.html) doesn't have any new tunes for the '99 holiday season, but the ones there already are a howl. My clan liked the sentiments expressed in "Tennis Ball," sung to the tune of "Silver Bells":

Tennis balls

Tennis balls

Perfection, round and inviting

Roll and play

All the day

Please, Santa, toss some our way.

You won't want to miss "O Puppy Tree" or "Hark! The Joyous Doggies Call," either. But wait! There are also Christmas lyrics for cat lovers at the Cats' X-mas Carols page (www.blakjak.demon.co.uk/cat_xmas.htm). How about this one, to the tune of "Deck the Halls":

Wreck the halls and steal the ribbons

Fa la la la la, la la la la

Christmas time's such fun for kittens

Fa la la la la, la la la la.

I had a lot of fun with these sites, and I know you will, too.

THE SCOOP

The hazards of the Christmas tree are so inviting that it's safer for your pet to make the whole thing off-limits. If you can, set up the tree in a room with a door you can close when you're not around to supervise. If that's not possible, consider baby-gates to keep puppies and dogs away, or consider surrounding the tree with foil or carpet-runners with the points up to stymie cats. Electronic solutions include motion detectors made for pet training that shriek when jostled, or mats that give off a slight static shock when stepped on. If you can do nothing else, avoid the most dangerous ornaments, including "angel hair" (made from spun glass), glass ornaments or icicles. You wouldn't trust a young child alone around a Christmas tree, would you? Consider your pet just as in need of supervision.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I run at least 30 minutes a day. I would love to get a dog that can run with me. What is the best breed? -- A.J., via e-mail

A: So many breeds and mixes would thrive on a 30-minute daily run that it's actually easier to rule out those that aren't as suitable. The toy breeds wouldn't be your best choice, nor would such short-legged dogs as the basset hound, dachshund or Welsh corgi. Heavy giant breeds, too, aren't built for jogging, so you can probably rule out the St. Bernard and Newfoundland. Dogs with short faces don't do as well exercising on warm days, so you might want to rule out the boxer.

Now I'm sure someone out there is going to write me about what a wonderful jogging pal that his or her corgi, boxer or Newfie is, and it's true that anything can work if you work at it. But some breeds are better suited than others, based on physical characteristics alone.

Of the breeds and mixes that remain -- and there are dozens! -- you can find plenty of choices. Anything from the small-mediums, such as Shelties, to large and leggy, such as greyhounds, would do just splendidly. It's all a matter of personal choice.

If safety is an issue, you might want to consider a breed that would by looks alone give a would-be attacker pause. In this category, place the Doberman, Rhodesian ridgeback and the German shepherd.

If responsiveness is what you're looking for, some of the breeds that are easier to train include the border collie and golden retriever. A breed that was born to the road is the Dalmatian, a dog that was developed to run alongside a horse-drawn carriage.

Don't forget the mixes, too. My friend Robyn is an avid exerciser, and her dog, a shepherd-cattle dog cross, could not be a better running companion.

If you do choose a purebred, be sure to buy from a reputable breeder who has certification that the parents are free of hip and elbow problems, crippling congenital defects that will doom your dog's future as a runner. X-rays or verbal assurances aren't enough. You must see certification from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) or from the University of Pennsylvania-developed Hip Improvement Program (PennHIP).

Don't push a pup into running. Work on his leash training as he's growing, but give his bones a chance to get fully developed before putting any roadwork on him. Better yet, look for an adult dog who, with a little training, can get immediately on the road with you.

Q: Our cat won't drink water unless it's ultrafresh. That means she won't drink it from a bowl, but instead comes running when we're near a sink. She likes to drink from the tap. We can't spend our lives turning taps on for the cat. Any ideas? -- W.L., via e-mail

A: Your cat is certainly not alone in her fastidiousness where drinking water is concerned. Some cats love fresh running water so much that they learn to turn on taps themselves -- but can't be bothered to learn to turn them back off, of course!

Cats can be hard to keep hydrated, a situation that can lead to urinary-tract problems. The more water you can get your cat to drink, the better. That's why I'd recommend doing anything you can to keep your cat happy. Share the bathroom tap with your pet. C'mon, what does it hurt?

You can also find continuous-flow feline drinking fountains that recycle the water to make it seem fresh to a cat. Hammacher Schlemmer (800-543-3366; www.hammacher.com) has one. You can also usually find them advertised in the back of magazines such as Cat Fancy.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

I love houseplants. I pore over seed catalogs, kick around nurseries, and fill my home with plants of all description. And then I abuse them horribly.

Sometimes I kill them with kindness, other times with neglect. Had I the knack with pets that I have with houseplants, I'd have long ago been jailed for animal abuse. But I mean well, and I'm always trying to do better. The same cannot be said for pets, who sometimes seem to go out of their way to ensure a plant-free home. Cats, in particular, take delight in the many cruelties they can inflict on innocent greens.

Chances are you're better at houseplants than I am, just because it's hard to imagine anyone could be worse. If you've taken the side of your plants against your cat, there are steps you can take to protect your plants and still provide your cat with the greens he loves.

First and foremost, realize you're going to have to sacrifice some plants to save the others: Set aside some space for a cat-friendly plant collection. Give your cat some plants for nibbling, some for sniffing and some for play. For chewing, always keep a pot of tender grass seedlings -- rye, alfalfa and wheat -- growing in a sunny spot. Parsley and thyme are herbs that many cats enjoy smelling and chewing, and both can be grown indoors. Try some different varieties, especially with the parsley.

Catnip is a natural for any cat garden. The stuff is so appealing to some cats they just won't leave it alone. Because of this, keep seedlings out of reach of your pet, or the plant may never get a chance to reach maturity. Once you've got a mature plant, snip off pieces to give your cat, stuff into toys or rub on cat trees. Catnip can't hurt your pet, so let him get as blissed out as he wants. Don't be surprised, however, if catnip has no effect at all: The ability to enjoy the herb is genetic, and many cats do not possess the "catnip gene."

When your cat has his own plants, you can work on keeping him away from the rest. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet -- hang them!

For the plants that you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating leaves with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to enforce the point.

Once your cat learns the leaves aren't so tasty, you can teach him that dirt isn't for digging and pots aren't for tipping. Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock. Foil and waxed paper are less attractive deterrents, and I don't like to recommend them as much as decorative rock because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil.

You can also deter your cat from even approaching pots by using carpet runners around the plants, with the pointy-side up. Commercial products such as the Scat Mat work well, too, giving off a small electric charge (like a carpet shock) to the pet who steps where he shouldn't.

Whatever tool or combination of tools you choose, remember that the most important ones are patience and compromise. Give your cat the greens he wants and make the rest less attractive to him, and a lush indoor garden will one day be yours for both you and your pet to enjoy.

PETS ON THE WEB

Cornell University has put a list of poisonous plants on the Internet at www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/plants.html. Another veterinary-school toxic plants listing is the University of Pennsylvania's, at http://cal.vet.upenn.edu/poison/index.html. The ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center, offers its "Household Plant Reference" in book form for $15, including shipping and handling. To get a copy, write to ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center, 1717 S. Philo Road, Suite No. 36, Urbana, IL 61802. Although you won't find a list of plants there, you can find out more about the organization at its Web site, www.napcc.aspca.org.

THE SCOOP

This is the time of year when that old saw gets trotted out warning people with pets to avoid poinsettias. In fact, poinsettias are not the toxic menace they're purported to be, and you can safely decorate your home with them. What if your pet munches down a few leaves? The worse that could happen might be a tummy ache, followed by vomiting. Not pleasant, to be sure, but hardly worth flying in a panic to see the emergency vet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm thinking about teaching my golden retriever to pull a sled with kids on it. Is this good or bad for this breed? How do I train him to pull a sled and steer it correctly? -- M.G., via e-mail

A: Hauling goods is work that has traditionally been shared by members of both the equine and canine families. Many dog breeds such as the Alaskan malamute and Bernese mountain dog were developed specifically to work pulling sleds or carts for human masters.

Although most dogs no longer must work for a living, traditional drafting skills are still in use in sports such as sled-dog racing, skijoring (cross-country skiing with a dog) and carting. All kinds of dogs and mixes have taken to harness, including retrievers such as yours, setters and even standard poodles.

Your golden will likely enjoy pulling a sled, but please make sure he's healthy before starting any training -- check with your veterinarian. And don't get started until you have the proper equipment, also for your dog's protection.

You'll need a harness designed for draft work, properly fitted and padded. Harnesses sold for dog-walking aren't designed for pulling, nor are collars. If you can't find sled-dog supplies in your area, you'll need to order from a specialty retailer, such as Free Spirit Outfitter (12324 Little Pine Road SW, Brainerd, MN 56401; 800-355-5575; www.gearfordogs.com).

If your dog walks well on leash, you can start right in with the draft training. If he doesn't, you'll need some basic leash training before putting him in harness. Although some dogs are trained to follow steering commands ("gee" for "right," "haw" for left and so on), I'd recommend handling the direction of the sled yourself, keeping your dog on leash and walking along beside him. That way you can be sure he doesn't get out of control or overexert himself.

Before you load on the kids, get your dog used to the idea of pulling with an empty sled. Encourage him forward and praise him for his efforts. Keep things positive, and your dog should come to enjoy his special job.

Q: We recently took in a stray cat and have been giving her milk. We were just told by a neighbor that milk is bad for cats, and that surprised us. We thought cats need milk. Who's right? - C.B., via e-mail

A: Cats have been drinking cow's milk since the first day one sneaked into a barn. They like it, that's for sure. But do they need cow's milk? Not at all.

Mother's milk -- from their own cat mother -- is the perfect food for kittens. And while they're little, they get everything they need from it, including important antibodies. After the age of 12 weeks or so, however, a few cats lose the ability to digest the lactose in the milk. For those cats, milk isn't recommended and can cause loose stools. Others are fine drinking milk, but it doesn't provide any nutrition a cat couldn't get elsewhere.

In the wild, kittens never drink milk again after they're weaned, and your cat has no reason to, either. If your cat likes and can tolerate milk, however, feel free to offer it as an occasional treat. But remember that it's never a substitute for a properly balanced commercial diet or for fresh water.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600