If you've decided to join those indulging in a little Y2K worrying by stocking up on batteries, flashlights and food, it really wouldn't hurt to make sure your pet is covered in the event of an emergency as well.

While no one knows what -- if anything -- will happen when the clocks click over to the year 2000, I figure that if fear drives people to make disaster plans they should have made years ago, then we're all better for it.

First on your list of pet provisions should be food and bottled water, along with any medications your pet normally takes. Make sure you have a couple of weeks' supply on hand at any given time. Better still is to always keep extra in the house, and to rotate your stock to keep it fresh. If you use canned food, make sure the brand you use has pop-top lids, or double-check that you have a non-electric can opener on hand.

You should also keep some basic first-aid supplies on hand, along with a booklet on how to use them. You can find ready-made first-aid kits in many pet-supply stores, catalogs and on Web sites. Pet-Pak Inc. (800-217-PETS; www.petpak.com) makes some fabulous kits you can buy directly, with all the basics packed in a neat plastic container.

Most ingredients of a pet first-aid kit can be found at any good drugstore, though, if you want to collect them on your own. And they're not all that different from what you should keep on hand for yourself.

For dogs and cats, include adhesive tape, Benadryl antihistamine; Betadine antiseptic; buffered aspirin, such as Ascriptin; cotton swabs, balls and rolls; eye wash; tweezers; hydrogen peroxide; cornstarch or styptic powder for minor bleeding (available at pet-supply stores); plastic syringes with needles removed (for administering liquid medications or irrigating wounds; get them from your vet); scissors; sterile gauze, both rolls and pads; syrup of Ipecac; pet thermometer; tranquilizers (as prescribed by your vet); antibiotic ointment; Vet Wrap padded bandages; and water-based lubricating jelly.

For birds, add a pair of needle-nosed pliers for pulling blood feathers, along with a heating pad, and a high-energy liquid (such as Pedialyte) or a ready-to-mix glucose solution. Instead of regular first-aid tape, which sticks to feathers, keep paper or masking tape in the kit. An old towel should also be at hand, for safely restraining your bird.

All pets should have carriers where you can get at them (as opposed to in the far reaches of the basement or rafters of the garage). Leashes, collars and up-to-date ID tags are a must, too. (I also use the 24-hour tracking service of 1-800-HELP4PETS, on the Web at www.help4pets.com.) Muzzles aren't bad to keep around, either, for an injured animal can lash out in pain. You can make one for most dogs out of gauze with a couple of loops around the muzzle and a tie behind the ears. Comfortable ready-made restraints for dogs and cats can be found in many pet-supply catalogs.

The end of the year is a good time to put household records in order, and that has a role in emergency planning, too. Make a folder for each pet, and put all pertinent information inside: medical records, registration papers, pictures, and information on emergency contacts if you're not available. Make a duplicate file and trade folders with a pet-loving neighbor or friend so your pets have a "godparent" in case of an emergency.

Y2K or not, chances are you'll never need to rely on any of your preparations. But if you ever need to, your pet will be better off for the time you spend now planning for the worst. And so will you.

PETS ON THE WEB

Elizabeth Cusulas' Doggy Carols page (www.ddc.com/waggers/carols.html) doesn't have any new tunes for the '99 holiday season, but the ones there already are a howl. My clan liked the sentiments expressed in "Tennis Ball," sung to the tune of "Silver Bells":

Tennis balls

Tennis balls

Perfection, round and inviting

Roll and play

All the day

Please, Santa, toss some our way.

You won't want to miss "O Puppy Tree" or "Hark! The Joyous Doggies Call," either. But wait! There are also Christmas lyrics for cat lovers at the Cats' X-mas Carols page (www.blakjak.demon.co.uk/cat_xmas.htm). How about this one, to the tune of "Deck the Halls":

Wreck the halls and steal the ribbons

Fa la la la la, la la la la

Christmas time's such fun for kittens

Fa la la la la, la la la la.

I had a lot of fun with these sites, and I know you will, too.

THE SCOOP

The hazards of the Christmas tree are so inviting that it's safer for your pet to make the whole thing off-limits. If you can, set up the tree in a room with a door you can close when you're not around to supervise. If that's not possible, consider baby-gates to keep puppies and dogs away, or consider surrounding the tree with foil or carpet-runners with the points up to stymie cats. Electronic solutions include motion detectors made for pet training that shriek when jostled, or mats that give off a slight static shock when stepped on. If you can do nothing else, avoid the most dangerous ornaments, including "angel hair" (made from spun glass), glass ornaments or icicles. You wouldn't trust a young child alone around a Christmas tree, would you? Consider your pet just as in need of supervision.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I run at least 30 minutes a day. I would love to get a dog that can run with me. What is the best breed? -- A.J., via e-mail

A: So many breeds and mixes would thrive on a 30-minute daily run that it's actually easier to rule out those that aren't as suitable. The toy breeds wouldn't be your best choice, nor would such short-legged dogs as the basset hound, dachshund or Welsh corgi. Heavy giant breeds, too, aren't built for jogging, so you can probably rule out the St. Bernard and Newfoundland. Dogs with short faces don't do as well exercising on warm days, so you might want to rule out the boxer.

Now I'm sure someone out there is going to write me about what a wonderful jogging pal that his or her corgi, boxer or Newfie is, and it's true that anything can work if you work at it. But some breeds are better suited than others, based on physical characteristics alone.

Of the breeds and mixes that remain -- and there are dozens! -- you can find plenty of choices. Anything from the small-mediums, such as Shelties, to large and leggy, such as greyhounds, would do just splendidly. It's all a matter of personal choice.

If safety is an issue, you might want to consider a breed that would by looks alone give a would-be attacker pause. In this category, place the Doberman, Rhodesian ridgeback and the German shepherd.

If responsiveness is what you're looking for, some of the breeds that are easier to train include the border collie and golden retriever. A breed that was born to the road is the Dalmatian, a dog that was developed to run alongside a horse-drawn carriage.

Don't forget the mixes, too. My friend Robyn is an avid exerciser, and her dog, a shepherd-cattle dog cross, could not be a better running companion.

If you do choose a purebred, be sure to buy from a reputable breeder who has certification that the parents are free of hip and elbow problems, crippling congenital defects that will doom your dog's future as a runner. X-rays or verbal assurances aren't enough. You must see certification from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) or from the University of Pennsylvania-developed Hip Improvement Program (PennHIP).

Don't push a pup into running. Work on his leash training as he's growing, but give his bones a chance to get fully developed before putting any roadwork on him. Better yet, look for an adult dog who, with a little training, can get immediately on the road with you.

Q: Our cat won't drink water unless it's ultrafresh. That means she won't drink it from a bowl, but instead comes running when we're near a sink. She likes to drink from the tap. We can't spend our lives turning taps on for the cat. Any ideas? -- W.L., via e-mail

A: Your cat is certainly not alone in her fastidiousness where drinking water is concerned. Some cats love fresh running water so much that they learn to turn on taps themselves -- but can't be bothered to learn to turn them back off, of course!

Cats can be hard to keep hydrated, a situation that can lead to urinary-tract problems. The more water you can get your cat to drink, the better. That's why I'd recommend doing anything you can to keep your cat happy. Share the bathroom tap with your pet. C'mon, what does it hurt?

You can also find continuous-flow feline drinking fountains that recycle the water to make it seem fresh to a cat. Hammacher Schlemmer (800-543-3366; www.hammacher.com) has one. You can also usually find them advertised in the back of magazines such as Cat Fancy.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

I love houseplants. I pore over seed catalogs, kick around nurseries, and fill my home with plants of all description. And then I abuse them horribly.

Sometimes I kill them with kindness, other times with neglect. Had I the knack with pets that I have with houseplants, I'd have long ago been jailed for animal abuse. But I mean well, and I'm always trying to do better. The same cannot be said for pets, who sometimes seem to go out of their way to ensure a plant-free home. Cats, in particular, take delight in the many cruelties they can inflict on innocent greens.

Chances are you're better at houseplants than I am, just because it's hard to imagine anyone could be worse. If you've taken the side of your plants against your cat, there are steps you can take to protect your plants and still provide your cat with the greens he loves.

First and foremost, realize you're going to have to sacrifice some plants to save the others: Set aside some space for a cat-friendly plant collection. Give your cat some plants for nibbling, some for sniffing and some for play. For chewing, always keep a pot of tender grass seedlings -- rye, alfalfa and wheat -- growing in a sunny spot. Parsley and thyme are herbs that many cats enjoy smelling and chewing, and both can be grown indoors. Try some different varieties, especially with the parsley.

Catnip is a natural for any cat garden. The stuff is so appealing to some cats they just won't leave it alone. Because of this, keep seedlings out of reach of your pet, or the plant may never get a chance to reach maturity. Once you've got a mature plant, snip off pieces to give your cat, stuff into toys or rub on cat trees. Catnip can't hurt your pet, so let him get as blissed out as he wants. Don't be surprised, however, if catnip has no effect at all: The ability to enjoy the herb is genetic, and many cats do not possess the "catnip gene."

When your cat has his own plants, you can work on keeping him away from the rest. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet -- hang them!

For the plants that you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating leaves with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to enforce the point.

Once your cat learns the leaves aren't so tasty, you can teach him that dirt isn't for digging and pots aren't for tipping. Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock. Foil and waxed paper are less attractive deterrents, and I don't like to recommend them as much as decorative rock because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil.

You can also deter your cat from even approaching pots by using carpet runners around the plants, with the pointy-side up. Commercial products such as the Scat Mat work well, too, giving off a small electric charge (like a carpet shock) to the pet who steps where he shouldn't.

Whatever tool or combination of tools you choose, remember that the most important ones are patience and compromise. Give your cat the greens he wants and make the rest less attractive to him, and a lush indoor garden will one day be yours for both you and your pet to enjoy.

PETS ON THE WEB

Cornell University has put a list of poisonous plants on the Internet at www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/plants.html. Another veterinary-school toxic plants listing is the University of Pennsylvania's, at http://cal.vet.upenn.edu/poison/index.html. The ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center, offers its "Household Plant Reference" in book form for $15, including shipping and handling. To get a copy, write to ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center, 1717 S. Philo Road, Suite No. 36, Urbana, IL 61802. Although you won't find a list of plants there, you can find out more about the organization at its Web site, www.napcc.aspca.org.

THE SCOOP

This is the time of year when that old saw gets trotted out warning people with pets to avoid poinsettias. In fact, poinsettias are not the toxic menace they're purported to be, and you can safely decorate your home with them. What if your pet munches down a few leaves? The worse that could happen might be a tummy ache, followed by vomiting. Not pleasant, to be sure, but hardly worth flying in a panic to see the emergency vet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm thinking about teaching my golden retriever to pull a sled with kids on it. Is this good or bad for this breed? How do I train him to pull a sled and steer it correctly? -- M.G., via e-mail

A: Hauling goods is work that has traditionally been shared by members of both the equine and canine families. Many dog breeds such as the Alaskan malamute and Bernese mountain dog were developed specifically to work pulling sleds or carts for human masters.

Although most dogs no longer must work for a living, traditional drafting skills are still in use in sports such as sled-dog racing, skijoring (cross-country skiing with a dog) and carting. All kinds of dogs and mixes have taken to harness, including retrievers such as yours, setters and even standard poodles.

Your golden will likely enjoy pulling a sled, but please make sure he's healthy before starting any training -- check with your veterinarian. And don't get started until you have the proper equipment, also for your dog's protection.

You'll need a harness designed for draft work, properly fitted and padded. Harnesses sold for dog-walking aren't designed for pulling, nor are collars. If you can't find sled-dog supplies in your area, you'll need to order from a specialty retailer, such as Free Spirit Outfitter (12324 Little Pine Road SW, Brainerd, MN 56401; 800-355-5575; www.gearfordogs.com).

If your dog walks well on leash, you can start right in with the draft training. If he doesn't, you'll need some basic leash training before putting him in harness. Although some dogs are trained to follow steering commands ("gee" for "right," "haw" for left and so on), I'd recommend handling the direction of the sled yourself, keeping your dog on leash and walking along beside him. That way you can be sure he doesn't get out of control or overexert himself.

Before you load on the kids, get your dog used to the idea of pulling with an empty sled. Encourage him forward and praise him for his efforts. Keep things positive, and your dog should come to enjoy his special job.

Q: We recently took in a stray cat and have been giving her milk. We were just told by a neighbor that milk is bad for cats, and that surprised us. We thought cats need milk. Who's right? - C.B., via e-mail

A: Cats have been drinking cow's milk since the first day one sneaked into a barn. They like it, that's for sure. But do they need cow's milk? Not at all.

Mother's milk -- from their own cat mother -- is the perfect food for kittens. And while they're little, they get everything they need from it, including important antibodies. After the age of 12 weeks or so, however, a few cats lose the ability to digest the lactose in the milk. For those cats, milk isn't recommended and can cause loose stools. Others are fine drinking milk, but it doesn't provide any nutrition a cat couldn't get elsewhere.

In the wild, kittens never drink milk again after they're weaned, and your cat has no reason to, either. If your cat likes and can tolerate milk, however, feel free to offer it as an occasional treat. But remember that it's never a substitute for a properly balanced commercial diet or for fresh water.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As a former child, I can remember a time when I wanted nothing for Christmas as much as I wanted a puppy. From kindergarten on, my lobbying campaign would start the day after Christmas and continue nonstop through the following holiday season.

Mom and Dad, I'm sorry. You were right: A Christmas puppy is a bad idea.

Today I am proof that a child can be denied a Christmas puppy and still grow up to be a more or less upstanding, moderately well-adjusted human being. Any flaws in my character I blame on them for not giving me a pony. (Just kidding, Mom and Dad. You were right about that, too.)

Despite overwhelming evidence (my brothers are good people, too, and they didn't get a Christmas puppy, either), every year parents give in to the begging of their children. They imagine the Christmas puppy as the most precious Norman Rockwell snapshots ever, the puppy in a box, the puppy with a ribbon, the puppy giving such a perfect kiss to the oh-so-happy face of a child.

OK, fine, but what then?

Puppies are not toys. They are living, breathing (not to mention eating and peeing) beings who need a lot of attention. Who has time for a pup during the holidays, that stressful season of socializing and shopping? With a houseful of guests and a holiday dinner to prepare, who will make sure the puppy isn't being mauled by overly enthusiastic children and guests? Who has time to get house-training started right?

But wait. Let's back up a little and look at another Christmas reality. Many reputable breeders and shelters flat-out won't cooperate with your Christmas puppy lust. The sellers who have puppies now are more likely to have money as their motive. Breeders like this are not likely to cut into profits with pesky screening for genetic diseases, nor are they likely to know or care about the importance of socialization. These attitudes may cost you in the long run, both in dollars and in heartbreak.

But say you find the right puppy anyway. It's still a bad time to get a puppy. Doubt me? Try house-training a puppy in the snow. Are you really so keen on the idea that you want to be out on winter nights, shivering while a puppy carefully contemplates whether he'd rather sniff or pee?

What about the rest of the training? The first few months of a dog's life are crucial: Bad habits are far easier to prevent than they are to break later. Will you really feel like training your pup when the holidays are over, the days are short, and the kids are back in school? How will you socialize your young dog? In the summer you have parks; in the winter you have ... nothing.

Dogs who grow up unhouse-trained, unmannered and unsocialized too often never get a chance to grow up much at all. Every fall, I get dozens and dozens of letters from people who are tearing out their hair over their now-adolescent Christmas puppy. Every fall, the shelters see more than their share of these dogs. Sad for the families, tragic for the dogs.

Dogs can be great for children, and children can be great with dogs. But Christmas is not the best time to launch such a promising relationship. Somebody has to be the grown-up here, and if you're the parent, it should be you. Wait until late spring or early summer to find the perfect pup and get him off to a great start.

PETS ON THE WEB

This season is prime time for the wholesale dog-breeding industry, which revs up to meet the demand for holiday pets. Activist Kim Townsend has revved up, too, with a Web site designed to educate pet buyers about the cruelties that still exist in the industry. Her Web site (www.nopuppymills.com) is a no-holds-barred look at the problems with commercial puppy breeders, with articles on the history of puppy mills, and why she believes you should not support them. If you've ever found yourself humming "How Much Is That Puppy in the Window?" you need to view this site to find out just how high the cost truly is, to both animals and consumers.

THE SCOOP

If you walk or run after dark, you're probably aware that it's a good idea to wear some sort of reflective garb so drivers can see you and avoid you. But do you realize your dog needs protection, too? If your dog walks on your left side and you walk with the flow of traffic, you put your pup in harm's way. A driver might see you but not notice your canine companion, especially if he's a dark-coated dog. You might find reflective wear at your local pet-supply store, but the best source of it is probably Glow Dog. The company's reflective garb includes vests, collars, bandanas and more -- for pets and people. Request a free catalog at 1-888-GLOWDOG (1-888-456-9364), or on the Web at www.glowdog.com.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have recently adopted an adorable 3-month-old toy fox terrier whom we have named Tootsie. Our grown kids live out of state, and we have a fairly active social life. We will be gone from home sometimes up to a week, and we will want Tootsie kept in a kennel.

Before we leave town, should we first board her for a day once in a while to get her accustomed to it and assure her she is not being abandoned? -- A.L., Santa Rosa, Calif.

A: Why have her spend time away from you when she doesn't have to? If you've chosen a good kennel, she'll be just fine when the time comes to board her. Some dogs even come to adore their home away from home.

Since you have some time before you have to leave her, make sure you check out prospective kennels carefully. Ask your friends, co-workers and neighbors for recommendations, along with your veterinarian.

When you have a facility in mind, arrange for a look-see on short notice. You should see clean, comfortable and well-maintained facilities. Ask specifically where your dog will be kept and what arrangements will be made for exercise.

You should get a sense that the owners see your dog as an individual and are willing to tailor their service to your dog. Requests for special diets and medications, if necessary, should be cheerfully accommodated. You should also be allowed to leave favorite toys, bedding or even a sock with your scent on it behind to make your pet feel more at home.

A good kennel should require proof of vaccinations from all dogs, including one for canine infectious tracheobronchitis, commonly called kennel cough. You'll need to have your dog vaccinated against this highly infectious disease at least three weeks before a kennel stay, so don't leave it to the last minute. Finally, ask about veterinary care should your dog become ill, and be sure you're satisfied with the answers before leaving your dog.

Q: Can parakeets talk? Mine doesn't seem to be able to. When will he, if ever? -- D.K., via e-mail

A: Parakeets, more accurately known as budgerigars or budgies, are certainly capable of talking, as are many other parrots. A few budgies have become quite good at talking, in fact, developing vocabularies of 100 words or more. That said, your bird may never utter a word. The only guaranteed way to have a talking bird is to bring one home who's already talking.

You can try to teach your bird to talk by repeating words clearly, or even by using tapes or computer programs that do so. You can nurture communication further by using the words in their proper context and by setting up an association your bird can grasp.

For example, every time your bird lowers his head for a scratch, ask him, "Wanna scratch?" and then scratch him. When you give him food or toys, call them by name out loud. Play naming games with him. Say "grape" and then tell him "Good bird!" for taking it from you, and repeat the exercise.

You may have an easier time of teaching your bird to talk if yours is a one-bird household. Two birds may be more interested in talking their own language with each other than in figuring out yours. Some experts also suggest not attempting to teach your bird to whistle, at least not until he has picked up speech, since whistling birds seem to show a reluctance to use words.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600