Call it the curse of the good samaritan. But any animal lover who picks up an occasional stray -- which would be all animal lovers, of course -- knows that sure as dogs have four legs, any stray you find isn't going to be wearing an ID tag or license.

Sure it's easy to find the owner of a pet with current ID. You call the phone number. But what do you do if you have no idea where a pet calls home? You can check for an identifying tattoo, or get the pet scanned for a microchip by your veterinarian or local shelter. But these methods of ID are still fairly rare, so you might find yourself back where you started. One pet, lost.

Liz Blackman, self-described top dog at 1-800-HELP4PETS, has been dealing with lost and found pets for years, as an animal lover and as the owner of a business dedicated to helping pets get home safely. She has a soft spot for strays (she shares her life with three of them), and says that many people don't do even the most obvious things to find the owner of a lost pet they've found.

The most important, says Blackman, is to take the stray pet to the shelter.

"This is the hardest pill for a pet lover to swallow," she says. "But you have to think of the person who's looking for the pet. The owner has the best chance of finding their pet in a centralized site, and that's the shelter.

"You have to ask yourself what would you want somebody to do with your pet," she says. "It's better for a stray to be in a shelter than in someone's back yard. How can you find your pet in someone's back yard? If you lose a pet, you're going to look in the shelter."

Most shelters will allow a finder to place a hold on a pet, says Blackman. That way if time runs out for the animal, you can claim him yourself. You can then keep the animal, find a new home for him, or continue to look for the owner.

Sometimes the extra time is what the owner needs to make the connection.

Blackman says that people sometimes get the wrong idea from the start with a stray and assume that since the pet looks scruffy, it was abused or neglected by his owner. Because of a stray's appearance, some people won't even look for the owner. She points out that it doesn't take much time on the street for a pet to lose weight and get dirty.

"We had a client who asked our help in finding a new home for a dog she'd found," she says. "She didn't want to find the owner because the dog was in such bad shape she was sure the owners neglected the dog.

"We found the owners, and it turned out they were anything but abusive. The dog looked bad because she had recently undergone thousands of dollars in cancer treatment!"

If you've taken the animal to a shelter, that doesn't mean you have to stop trying to find the pet's owner. Place fliers where you found the pet, as well as in areas where animal lovers turn up -- pet stores, veterinary offices and dog parks. Don't forget to put fliers in area shelters other than the one to which you took the pet. Pets can travel a long distance, and the shelter nearest your house may not be closest to the one near the pet's home. Place "found" ads in the local newspapers, as well.

Blackman says it's important to leave out all but the most general details in the pet's description, and make the owners fill in the blanks when they call. That's because people who collect dogs for sale to laboratories or for use in dog-fighting have been known to claim lost pets as their own.

No one has any figures on how many lost pets are reunited with their owners, but the odds of a reunion increase dramatically if both the person who lost the pet and the one who found the animal are doing their best to set the situation straight.

PETS ON THE WEB

Don't be put off by that scaly tail and beady eyes -- rats are great pets! A enjoyable place to learn more about these smart and affectionate pets is the Web site Squeak: The Online Magazine of Rats and Their Humans (www.chirpy.com/squeak). The site contains care information, lots of pictures and stories, information on clubs, a reader survey with some peculiar percentages and links to the most rat-friendly places on the Net.

THE SCOOP

The cooler weather makes fall a great time to get out with your dog and go for a walk. Walking is good for your dog: It gets him out of the house and into the exciting world of new sounds, sights and smells, and it gets his heart pumping a little faster. It's good for you, too, because studies show that human interactions are increased when you walk a dog; you'll meet more neighbors than if you were by yourself. And it's good for you both, in that any shared activity strengthens the bond between you. What's not to love about walking the dog? Put on your shoes, find that leash and get going. But don't forget a few baggies so you can pick up after your dog. You want those interactions with your neighbors to be friendly, right?

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am terribly upset because I love animals (especially cats), but my brother is allergic to them. I had heard about hypoallergenic cats, but when I went to a Web site to find some, the cats had really long necks and big heads. I want to know if you knew the names of some cats that look cuddly but are also hypoallergenic. -- S.C., via e-mail

A: I hate to disappoint you, but hypoallergenic cats do not exist. The curly-coated Devon Rex and Cornish Rex are often touted as being good for allergy sufferers, but it's not true. The idea probably comes from the fact that these light-coated (and kind of funny-looking) breeds shed little. But fur isn't what causes allergy problems. The allergic trigger is found in the saliva and glands of cats, and the problem is spread all over the cat and the house through normal grooming and rubbing. Even a good shake can put allergens in the air!

Although people with severe allergies probably will never be able to tolerate life with a cat, if you're not as severely affected, you might be able to manage it with a few adjustments.

The first step would be to get serious about allergies. Work with an allergist, even if she rolls her eyes because you won't give up your pet. Try to limit your exposure to other allergens, such as smoke and strong perfumes. Use a mask when mowing the lawn. Getting a handle on everything else that's bugging you may give you "breathing room" enough for a cat. Make your bedroom a totally "cat-free" zone. Sure, it's hard to give up the warmth of a cat on the bed, but if you let allergies disrupt your sleep you'll be miserable.

A final tip is one neither you nor your cat will want put in practice: a weekly rinse. Strange as it may seem, rinsing your cat weekly in plain water has been shown to help, too. It keeps the level of allergens down. No soap is necessary.

Q: I agree with what you say about choker collars. The problem is that I took my boxer, Sadie, to the vet the other day and discussed her "sensitive skin" problem. I have tried both a leather and cloth collar with her, and she still continues to get a pretty bad irritation on her neck from the metal on the collar.

The vet said that it was because of moisture retention in the collars (we live in South Florida). He recommends a choker collar because it will not retain moisture. I really don't feel comfortable with this change because of the dangers involved. What do you recommend? -- C.P., via the Internet

A: I would rather see no collar on your dog than to have you use a chain collar for everyday wear. It's just too dangerous.

If your dog was wearing a wide leather collar, try a rolled collar and go for a loose fit. Rolled leather collars are smooth and slender, and that might do the trick.

In the end, you may find that nothing will work, and that your dog will wear a collar only when out of the house. If that's the case, make sure your pet is microchipped, tattooed, or both, for more protection in case she gets lost.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the biggest mistakes people make when a pet goes missing is waiting a day or so to see if he'll wander back home.

So says Liz Blackman, owner of 1-800-HELP4PETS, a company that helps reunite lost pets with their owners. "The first thing that people need to know when they lose a pet is that they need to act quickly -- and broadly," says Blackman.

First on the "to do" list: a lost pet sign. "Don't get into too much detail," says Blackman. "You do not have to get down to the color of your dog's toenails. Think large, and think basic. 'Lost dog' in big letters, and a phone number with area code, also large. And put the word 'reward' in there, because it motivates some people who wouldn't care otherwise."

To motivate others, Blackman suggests a measure of "sappiness." "You need to get people emotionally involved," she says. "So tell them how you feel, how much you care. Put 'Child is heartbroken' or 'My best friend is missing.' I have seen total strangers take off work to help look because they were motivated by a sign."

Blackman says other mistakes people make are not printing enough signs and not displaying them properly. "Print a minimum of 100," she says, "and put half facing the street where drivers can see them, half facing the sidewalk so pedestrians can." Also, put signs in places where pet people go: veterinary offices, dog parks, pet-supply stores. And don't forget to place a lost-pet ad in your local paper.

Because you'll be out looking for your pet, Blackman suggests changing the message on your answering machine. "You want to encourage people to leave a message and keep them involved," she says. Her suggestion: "Thank you for calling. I'm out looking for my lost pet right now. Please leave a message, and I'll call you right back as soon as I come in."

Enlist the help of friends, family and neighbors in the search, and go door-to-door in your area. Ask neighbors to check garages, tool sheds and crawl spaces. Cats often slip into such spaces unnoticed and are trapped when doors are shut, says Blackman.

You'll need to visit every shelter in your area, and look through the cages and runs yourself. Shelter staff workers are busy, says Blackman, and they might not remember seeing your pet or recognize it from your verbal description.

Ask to see the pets in the infirmary as well as the general runs; your pet might have been injured. And don't stop at one shelter. Go to all the shelters in the area. Animals can travel a good distance on their own, and sometimes people pick up a lost pet and take it home, only to have it escape again into an area even farther away from home.

Try to enlist the help of the media -- newspapers and radio and TV stations. In a big city, you won't get much interest, says Blackman, but in a small town you might get a lot of help. Even in a big city, though, if there's something interesting, odd or unique about your pet, you may get some media interest. It's always worth trying.

Blackman's final piece of advice: Don't give up. "Don't get discouraged," she says. "Focus and visualize. These both help. And it doesn't hurt to pray."

Next week, I'll share Blackman's advice on what to do when you find a pet.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Denver Dumb Friends League (www.ddfl.org) has assembled one of the best collections of articles on solving pet-behavior problems that I've seen. The articles are clear and concise, and offer not only suggestions on how to solve various problems, but also provide an understanding of the natural instincts behind behaviors we humans find hard to live with.

To get to the collection, click on Information and Tips from the front screen. Before you do, though, go to the bottom and click on the link explaining this group's unusual name. I was just at this shelter, and I asked the group's president, Bob Rohde, if a name change had been considered. It has, he admitted, then added quickly, "But when you have 94 percent name recognition in your target market, would you change?"

The name may be old-fashioned, but the group is not. And its motto, "We speak for those who cannot speak for themselves," remains current.

THE SCOOP

I've long accepted the fact that as much as my niece, Kate, likes to see me, she's always more excited at my arrival if I've brought one or more of my dogs. Kate's not alone in her love of animals. If you're looking for a special gift for the animal-loving youngster in your life, Lisa Rosenthal's new book, "A Dog's Best Friend: An Activity Book for Kids and Their Dogs" (Chicago Review Press, $12.95) should be on your gift list. The book offers plans for dog-related crafts such as making collars, dog treats and food mats, and provides great basic advice on care and training.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: One of our members faxed your column about how to pick the best puppy. Your advice is to "alpha-roll" your puppy (roll him onto his back) to become top dog.

During my studies in animal science at the University of California, Davis, we were given a research project about the various breeds of dogs that went through dog obedience classes. We discovered there was still a very high percentage that became aggressive and bit someone in the family, mainly children.

Our findings were that out of 100 dog-bite incidents, every one of the dog owners was instructed to be the "leader of the pack," and 85 percent took their puppies through kindergarten puppy class, where they were taught the alpha-roll. This seemed to work until the puppy grew up and was too large to be alpha-rolled. One woman from San Francisco wrote that she was able to alpha-roll her young German shepherd up to the age of 8 months. Because he started growling, she had her husband alpha-roll the dog. Two months later, as she went to pet her German shepherd, he lunged and bit her hand severely.

The point is teaching a dog to submit to dominance, the strong over the weak, which teaches it to dominate something smaller/weaker than itself.

Do you know of any animals that can be trained with an alpha-roll? I am sure Siegfried and Roy would never even attempt to alpha-roll their once-wild Bengal tigers. -- Matt Sanchez, director, People Protecting the Future of Man's Best Friend Inc., Encinitas, Calif.

A: You might want to take another look at that column. It had absolutely nothing to do with dog training and everything to do with some simple tests to help someone who's looking for a puppy.

Within most litters you'll find bold puppies, shy puppies, pushy puppies and puppies happy to go along with the flow. Paired with a human companion who's the right fit, every puppy has the potential to become a great pet. In the wrong hands, though, some puppies have the potential for disaster. The key is in recognizing and dealing with problems early, and some people aren't capable of either.

Since puppies (and dogs) don't like the being put on their back, gently rolling a young pup over for a few seconds is one way to see how he reacts to stress and authority. For most families the "right" puppy is the one who wants to get along -- he squirms a little, settles down and, when released, comes back seeking more affection.

That's all I was talking about in reference to the "alpha roll." Using the technique to train your dog -- or to retrain an aggressive animal -- is not only unnecessary, but it can also get you bitten.

My advice for anyone with an aggressive dog: Get help. The dog who growls is on the road to trouble; the one who tries to bite has already arrived. Fixing canine aggression is absolutely not a do-it-yourself project. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist who can help.

Q: I have an issue that sounds funny, but it's not: Mice are eating the cat food.

I am often away on weekends, and I leave a self-feeder full of dry cat food for Tigger. By the time I get home on Sunday night, she is hungry and may have caught a couple of mice.

I cannot put down poison because then Tigger would eat the mouse and get poisoned herself. I do not have the heart to put down traps, and I am concerned that Tigger might get caught in them.

This is also causing a financial drain. It's getting expensive to feed all the mice in the neighborhood. Tigger is overweight but seems to have lost some weight lately. It could be because these days her plate is often empty. Do you have any suggestions? -- A.F., via e-mail

A: Call a pest-control service!

Nobody really likes killing mice, but the situation you describe is dangerous. Mice carry diseases that can significantly affect your health. If you have so many mice that they're starving your cat, you have a serious problem. You and Tigger may even have to vacate your home for a few days so a professional can get the problem under control.

After the mice are gone, you'll need to work on preventing a reinfestation. According to the Humane Society of the United States' excellent book "Wild Neighbors: The Humane Approach to Living With Wildlife" (Fulcrum, $16.95), mice gain access through tiny holes and cracks in the foundation, and tiny gaps where pipes and wires enter the house. Sealing these up is not only good for preventing mice from entering, but also helps keep heating costs down.

I'd also start asking a friend, neighbor or pet-sitting service to come in and feed Tigger. And get rid of the self-feeder. Mice don't stay where they can't find food.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

With dogs, as with anything else, nothing succeeds like excess, which is why the dogs who win in the show ring have lots of fur. Breeds such as cockers, collies and Afghans have lush, glorious coats that would be wholly impractical in their original lines of work, but they're sure beautiful at the end of a lead in the show ring.

They're also beautiful at the end of a leash in the park, which is why many of these breeds are so popular. But there's a price to be paid for such beauty. And if you don't pay, your dog will. Grooming isn't an optional part of caring for your pet. Consider a simple mat, so easy to overlook. Have you ever had your hair in a ponytail that was just a little too tight? A mat can feel the same way to your dog, a constant pull on the skin. Try to imagine those all over your body, and you have a good idea how uncomfortable an ungroomed coat can be.

Your dog need never know what a mat feels like if you keep him brushed and combed. You should go over him daily, clearing such things as mats and ticks from his coat, and brush him out completely every week. For shorthaired breeds, doing so is a cinch. Run your hands over him daily, a brush over him weekly, and that's it.

For other breeds, grooming is a little more involved. Breeds such as collies, chows, Keeshonden and Alaskan malamutes are "double-coated," which means they have a downy undercoat underneath harsher long hair. The down can mat like a layer of felt against the skin if left untended, a situation that's very uncomfortable. To prevent this, divide the coat into small sections and brush against the grain from the skin outward, working from head to tail, section by section. In the spring and fall -- the big shed times -- you'll end up with enough of that fluffy undercoat to make a whole new dog. Keep brushing and think of the benefits: The fur you pull out with a brush doesn't end up on the furniture, and removing the old stuff keeps your pet cooler in the summer and lets new insulation come in for the winter.

Silky-coated dogs such as Afghan hounds, cockers and Maltese also need constant brushing to keep tangles from forming. As with the double-coated dogs, work with small sections at a time, brushing from the skin outward and then comb back into place with the grain for a glossy, finished look. Coats of this type require so much attention that having a groomer keep the dogs trimmed to a medium length is often more practical.

Curly and wiry coats, such those on poodles and terriers, need to be brushed weekly, working against the grain and then with it. Curly coats need to be clipped every six weeks, wiry ones two or three times a year (but clipping every six weeks will keep your terrier looking sharper).

Good grooming is about more than keeping your pet looking beautiful and clean-smelling, although that's certainly one of the pleasant payoffs. Regular grooming relaxes the dog who's used to it, and it becomes a special time shared between you both. A coat free of mats, burrs and tangles, and skin free of fleas and ticks is as comfortable to your dog as clean clothes fresh from the wash are to you. It just makes you feel good, and the effect is the same for your pet.

Some added benefit for you: Giving your dog a tummy rub after every session is sure to relax you (and your dog, of course) and ease the stresses of your day. And for allergy sufferers, keeping a dog clean may make having a dog possible. A better deal I never heard, so get grooming!

PETS ON THE WEB

For a peek at what must surely be the best-groomed dogs in the world, check out the Intergroom Web site (www.intergroom.com). An international organization for groomers, Intergroom sponsors competitions where the best-groomed dogs take home the ribbons for their groomers in a display of professional skill. The groomers compete for cash and prizes in categories for poodles, terriers, spaniels and others.

One interesting competition is Rags to Riches, where a groomer takes a dog with a serious bad hair day and makes him beautiful. As the Web site says, "The shaggier the coat and the finer the finish, the greater the chances of winning a great deal of cash." Ladies and gentlemen, start your clippers!

THE SCOOP

Thinking of adding another bird to your flock? For the safety of the pet birds you already have, skip any introductions until your new bird has been examined by a veterinarian who's experienced in avian medicine. Even a seemingly healthy bird needs to be quarantined for about six weeks before meeting any other feathered family members. As heartbreaking as it would be to lose your new pet to an infectious disease you didn't know he was carrying, imagine how you would feel if you lost any or all of the birds you already have because you introduced them to a sick bird. You just can't be too careful.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My parents bought an AKC-registered shiba inu puppy last February. The problem: My parents are in their mid-70s and are in over their heads with this dog. They can't handle the high activity level. I sent them an in-home trainer last week to work with them, but I'm afraid that it was too late for my parents. Their patience is gone, and my dad is getting out of breath when walking her and playing with her.

They want to find a great home for her, of course. I want to locate a rescue outfit for this type of dog, so she can have a temporary home until the rescue folks interview the right family for the dog. The family pays an adoption fee, and then the rescue checks up on her throughout the dog's life.

My parents want no money, even though the initial cost of her was $750. They have crates, lots of food and toys. She's had all of her shots and is spayed. Can you please send me in the right direction? -- G.L., via e-mail

A: The breed rescue movement is a much-needed addition to a collection of groups and individuals who help find homes for pets who need them. Breed rescue groups work with a single breed, such as the basset hound, or a handful of related breeds, such as the sighthounds (Afghans, borzois and the like.)

These groups range from one-person operations placing a few dogs a year to a few massive nonprofits with their own sheltering facilities, boards of directors, and a well-organized volunteer network all dedicated to stepping in when one of their particular breed needs a hand.

Probably the closest description of a "typical" breed rescue outfit would be a group consisting of two to four volunteers who work together to foster and place dogs of their chosen breeds and are both affiliated with a local breed club and loosely tied to a national network of rescuers for that particular breed.

Breed rescue contacts can be hard to find. If you have Internet access, the American Kennel Club's Web site (www.akc.org) offers two ways to track down rescue groups, either on their list of rescues, or by hitting the links to the national breed clubs, most of which list rescue contacts. (Type "rescue" into the AKC search engine.) You can also get the same information by calling the AKC at its North Carolina office, (919) 233-9767.

Another resource is your local humane association or SPCA. Most traditional shelters now work quite happily with breed rescue groups and maintain a list of local contacts.

Q: Thank you for not promoting exotics as pets. As you mentioned, many people who have exotic pets do take wonderful care of them. However, I agree that we humans already do a horrible job of taking care of all the cats and dogs who do rely on us for care and love.

It is a shame that humans continue to inflict their emotional needs on species that are not naturally attracted to our lifestyles (skunks, snakes, iguanas, hedgehogs, prairie dogs). As a result, the animals end up being abused, neglected or killed by humans. The pet-store trade is full of problems, and exotic pets are often the victims of greed and the quest for more customers.

Thanks for being a voice of reason. Please keep reminding people that exotic animals' natural habitat is not in our homes or apartments. -- K.A., via e-mail

A: Thanks for giving me the chance to remind everyone again. I couldn't have said it better.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600