One of the biggest mistakes people make when a pet goes missing is waiting a day or so to see if he'll wander back home.

So says Liz Blackman, owner of 1-800-HELP4PETS, a company that helps reunite lost pets with their owners. "The first thing that people need to know when they lose a pet is that they need to act quickly -- and broadly," says Blackman.

First on the "to do" list: a lost pet sign. "Don't get into too much detail," says Blackman. "You do not have to get down to the color of your dog's toenails. Think large, and think basic. 'Lost dog' in big letters, and a phone number with area code, also large. And put the word 'reward' in there, because it motivates some people who wouldn't care otherwise."

To motivate others, Blackman suggests a measure of "sappiness." "You need to get people emotionally involved," she says. "So tell them how you feel, how much you care. Put 'Child is heartbroken' or 'My best friend is missing.' I have seen total strangers take off work to help look because they were motivated by a sign."

Blackman says other mistakes people make are not printing enough signs and not displaying them properly. "Print a minimum of 100," she says, "and put half facing the street where drivers can see them, half facing the sidewalk so pedestrians can." Also, put signs in places where pet people go: veterinary offices, dog parks, pet-supply stores. And don't forget to place a lost-pet ad in your local paper.

Because you'll be out looking for your pet, Blackman suggests changing the message on your answering machine. "You want to encourage people to leave a message and keep them involved," she says. Her suggestion: "Thank you for calling. I'm out looking for my lost pet right now. Please leave a message, and I'll call you right back as soon as I come in."

Enlist the help of friends, family and neighbors in the search, and go door-to-door in your area. Ask neighbors to check garages, tool sheds and crawl spaces. Cats often slip into such spaces unnoticed and are trapped when doors are shut, says Blackman.

You'll need to visit every shelter in your area, and look through the cages and runs yourself. Shelter staff workers are busy, says Blackman, and they might not remember seeing your pet or recognize it from your verbal description.

Ask to see the pets in the infirmary as well as the general runs; your pet might have been injured. And don't stop at one shelter. Go to all the shelters in the area. Animals can travel a good distance on their own, and sometimes people pick up a lost pet and take it home, only to have it escape again into an area even farther away from home.

Try to enlist the help of the media -- newspapers and radio and TV stations. In a big city, you won't get much interest, says Blackman, but in a small town you might get a lot of help. Even in a big city, though, if there's something interesting, odd or unique about your pet, you may get some media interest. It's always worth trying.

Blackman's final piece of advice: Don't give up. "Don't get discouraged," she says. "Focus and visualize. These both help. And it doesn't hurt to pray."

Next week, I'll share Blackman's advice on what to do when you find a pet.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Denver Dumb Friends League (www.ddfl.org) has assembled one of the best collections of articles on solving pet-behavior problems that I've seen. The articles are clear and concise, and offer not only suggestions on how to solve various problems, but also provide an understanding of the natural instincts behind behaviors we humans find hard to live with.

To get to the collection, click on Information and Tips from the front screen. Before you do, though, go to the bottom and click on the link explaining this group's unusual name. I was just at this shelter, and I asked the group's president, Bob Rohde, if a name change had been considered. It has, he admitted, then added quickly, "But when you have 94 percent name recognition in your target market, would you change?"

The name may be old-fashioned, but the group is not. And its motto, "We speak for those who cannot speak for themselves," remains current.

THE SCOOP

I've long accepted the fact that as much as my niece, Kate, likes to see me, she's always more excited at my arrival if I've brought one or more of my dogs. Kate's not alone in her love of animals. If you're looking for a special gift for the animal-loving youngster in your life, Lisa Rosenthal's new book, "A Dog's Best Friend: An Activity Book for Kids and Their Dogs" (Chicago Review Press, $12.95) should be on your gift list. The book offers plans for dog-related crafts such as making collars, dog treats and food mats, and provides great basic advice on care and training.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: One of our members faxed your column about how to pick the best puppy. Your advice is to "alpha-roll" your puppy (roll him onto his back) to become top dog.

During my studies in animal science at the University of California, Davis, we were given a research project about the various breeds of dogs that went through dog obedience classes. We discovered there was still a very high percentage that became aggressive and bit someone in the family, mainly children.

Our findings were that out of 100 dog-bite incidents, every one of the dog owners was instructed to be the "leader of the pack," and 85 percent took their puppies through kindergarten puppy class, where they were taught the alpha-roll. This seemed to work until the puppy grew up and was too large to be alpha-rolled. One woman from San Francisco wrote that she was able to alpha-roll her young German shepherd up to the age of 8 months. Because he started growling, she had her husband alpha-roll the dog. Two months later, as she went to pet her German shepherd, he lunged and bit her hand severely.

The point is teaching a dog to submit to dominance, the strong over the weak, which teaches it to dominate something smaller/weaker than itself.

Do you know of any animals that can be trained with an alpha-roll? I am sure Siegfried and Roy would never even attempt to alpha-roll their once-wild Bengal tigers. -- Matt Sanchez, director, People Protecting the Future of Man's Best Friend Inc., Encinitas, Calif.

A: You might want to take another look at that column. It had absolutely nothing to do with dog training and everything to do with some simple tests to help someone who's looking for a puppy.

Within most litters you'll find bold puppies, shy puppies, pushy puppies and puppies happy to go along with the flow. Paired with a human companion who's the right fit, every puppy has the potential to become a great pet. In the wrong hands, though, some puppies have the potential for disaster. The key is in recognizing and dealing with problems early, and some people aren't capable of either.

Since puppies (and dogs) don't like the being put on their back, gently rolling a young pup over for a few seconds is one way to see how he reacts to stress and authority. For most families the "right" puppy is the one who wants to get along -- he squirms a little, settles down and, when released, comes back seeking more affection.

That's all I was talking about in reference to the "alpha roll." Using the technique to train your dog -- or to retrain an aggressive animal -- is not only unnecessary, but it can also get you bitten.

My advice for anyone with an aggressive dog: Get help. The dog who growls is on the road to trouble; the one who tries to bite has already arrived. Fixing canine aggression is absolutely not a do-it-yourself project. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist who can help.

Q: I have an issue that sounds funny, but it's not: Mice are eating the cat food.

I am often away on weekends, and I leave a self-feeder full of dry cat food for Tigger. By the time I get home on Sunday night, she is hungry and may have caught a couple of mice.

I cannot put down poison because then Tigger would eat the mouse and get poisoned herself. I do not have the heart to put down traps, and I am concerned that Tigger might get caught in them.

This is also causing a financial drain. It's getting expensive to feed all the mice in the neighborhood. Tigger is overweight but seems to have lost some weight lately. It could be because these days her plate is often empty. Do you have any suggestions? -- A.F., via e-mail

A: Call a pest-control service!

Nobody really likes killing mice, but the situation you describe is dangerous. Mice carry diseases that can significantly affect your health. If you have so many mice that they're starving your cat, you have a serious problem. You and Tigger may even have to vacate your home for a few days so a professional can get the problem under control.

After the mice are gone, you'll need to work on preventing a reinfestation. According to the Humane Society of the United States' excellent book "Wild Neighbors: The Humane Approach to Living With Wildlife" (Fulcrum, $16.95), mice gain access through tiny holes and cracks in the foundation, and tiny gaps where pipes and wires enter the house. Sealing these up is not only good for preventing mice from entering, but also helps keep heating costs down.

I'd also start asking a friend, neighbor or pet-sitting service to come in and feed Tigger. And get rid of the self-feeder. Mice don't stay where they can't find food.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

With dogs, as with anything else, nothing succeeds like excess, which is why the dogs who win in the show ring have lots of fur. Breeds such as cockers, collies and Afghans have lush, glorious coats that would be wholly impractical in their original lines of work, but they're sure beautiful at the end of a lead in the show ring.

They're also beautiful at the end of a leash in the park, which is why many of these breeds are so popular. But there's a price to be paid for such beauty. And if you don't pay, your dog will. Grooming isn't an optional part of caring for your pet. Consider a simple mat, so easy to overlook. Have you ever had your hair in a ponytail that was just a little too tight? A mat can feel the same way to your dog, a constant pull on the skin. Try to imagine those all over your body, and you have a good idea how uncomfortable an ungroomed coat can be.

Your dog need never know what a mat feels like if you keep him brushed and combed. You should go over him daily, clearing such things as mats and ticks from his coat, and brush him out completely every week. For shorthaired breeds, doing so is a cinch. Run your hands over him daily, a brush over him weekly, and that's it.

For other breeds, grooming is a little more involved. Breeds such as collies, chows, Keeshonden and Alaskan malamutes are "double-coated," which means they have a downy undercoat underneath harsher long hair. The down can mat like a layer of felt against the skin if left untended, a situation that's very uncomfortable. To prevent this, divide the coat into small sections and brush against the grain from the skin outward, working from head to tail, section by section. In the spring and fall -- the big shed times -- you'll end up with enough of that fluffy undercoat to make a whole new dog. Keep brushing and think of the benefits: The fur you pull out with a brush doesn't end up on the furniture, and removing the old stuff keeps your pet cooler in the summer and lets new insulation come in for the winter.

Silky-coated dogs such as Afghan hounds, cockers and Maltese also need constant brushing to keep tangles from forming. As with the double-coated dogs, work with small sections at a time, brushing from the skin outward and then comb back into place with the grain for a glossy, finished look. Coats of this type require so much attention that having a groomer keep the dogs trimmed to a medium length is often more practical.

Curly and wiry coats, such those on poodles and terriers, need to be brushed weekly, working against the grain and then with it. Curly coats need to be clipped every six weeks, wiry ones two or three times a year (but clipping every six weeks will keep your terrier looking sharper).

Good grooming is about more than keeping your pet looking beautiful and clean-smelling, although that's certainly one of the pleasant payoffs. Regular grooming relaxes the dog who's used to it, and it becomes a special time shared between you both. A coat free of mats, burrs and tangles, and skin free of fleas and ticks is as comfortable to your dog as clean clothes fresh from the wash are to you. It just makes you feel good, and the effect is the same for your pet.

Some added benefit for you: Giving your dog a tummy rub after every session is sure to relax you (and your dog, of course) and ease the stresses of your day. And for allergy sufferers, keeping a dog clean may make having a dog possible. A better deal I never heard, so get grooming!

PETS ON THE WEB

For a peek at what must surely be the best-groomed dogs in the world, check out the Intergroom Web site (www.intergroom.com). An international organization for groomers, Intergroom sponsors competitions where the best-groomed dogs take home the ribbons for their groomers in a display of professional skill. The groomers compete for cash and prizes in categories for poodles, terriers, spaniels and others.

One interesting competition is Rags to Riches, where a groomer takes a dog with a serious bad hair day and makes him beautiful. As the Web site says, "The shaggier the coat and the finer the finish, the greater the chances of winning a great deal of cash." Ladies and gentlemen, start your clippers!

THE SCOOP

Thinking of adding another bird to your flock? For the safety of the pet birds you already have, skip any introductions until your new bird has been examined by a veterinarian who's experienced in avian medicine. Even a seemingly healthy bird needs to be quarantined for about six weeks before meeting any other feathered family members. As heartbreaking as it would be to lose your new pet to an infectious disease you didn't know he was carrying, imagine how you would feel if you lost any or all of the birds you already have because you introduced them to a sick bird. You just can't be too careful.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My parents bought an AKC-registered shiba inu puppy last February. The problem: My parents are in their mid-70s and are in over their heads with this dog. They can't handle the high activity level. I sent them an in-home trainer last week to work with them, but I'm afraid that it was too late for my parents. Their patience is gone, and my dad is getting out of breath when walking her and playing with her.

They want to find a great home for her, of course. I want to locate a rescue outfit for this type of dog, so she can have a temporary home until the rescue folks interview the right family for the dog. The family pays an adoption fee, and then the rescue checks up on her throughout the dog's life.

My parents want no money, even though the initial cost of her was $750. They have crates, lots of food and toys. She's had all of her shots and is spayed. Can you please send me in the right direction? -- G.L., via e-mail

A: The breed rescue movement is a much-needed addition to a collection of groups and individuals who help find homes for pets who need them. Breed rescue groups work with a single breed, such as the basset hound, or a handful of related breeds, such as the sighthounds (Afghans, borzois and the like.)

These groups range from one-person operations placing a few dogs a year to a few massive nonprofits with their own sheltering facilities, boards of directors, and a well-organized volunteer network all dedicated to stepping in when one of their particular breed needs a hand.

Probably the closest description of a "typical" breed rescue outfit would be a group consisting of two to four volunteers who work together to foster and place dogs of their chosen breeds and are both affiliated with a local breed club and loosely tied to a national network of rescuers for that particular breed.

Breed rescue contacts can be hard to find. If you have Internet access, the American Kennel Club's Web site (www.akc.org) offers two ways to track down rescue groups, either on their list of rescues, or by hitting the links to the national breed clubs, most of which list rescue contacts. (Type "rescue" into the AKC search engine.) You can also get the same information by calling the AKC at its North Carolina office, (919) 233-9767.

Another resource is your local humane association or SPCA. Most traditional shelters now work quite happily with breed rescue groups and maintain a list of local contacts.

Q: Thank you for not promoting exotics as pets. As you mentioned, many people who have exotic pets do take wonderful care of them. However, I agree that we humans already do a horrible job of taking care of all the cats and dogs who do rely on us for care and love.

It is a shame that humans continue to inflict their emotional needs on species that are not naturally attracted to our lifestyles (skunks, snakes, iguanas, hedgehogs, prairie dogs). As a result, the animals end up being abused, neglected or killed by humans. The pet-store trade is full of problems, and exotic pets are often the victims of greed and the quest for more customers.

Thanks for being a voice of reason. Please keep reminding people that exotic animals' natural habitat is not in our homes or apartments. -- K.A., via e-mail

A: Thanks for giving me the chance to remind everyone again. I couldn't have said it better.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Not long ago, I wrote about how to pick a puppy and promptly got a lot of mail from people wanting to know about selecting a kitten. "Hey! What about kittens, you dope!" wrote one reader, tactfully.

Only so much can fit in any single column, I must say in my own defense. But only a dope would pass up the opportunity to write about kittens, especially now, when shelters are bursting with kittens who need homes. (Adult cats, too. And in some ways, they're a better choice than kittens.)

Yes, you can personality-test kittens, and it's great fun! Checking out kittens involves playing with them, and that's something you can never spend enough time doing.

Before you head for the shelter, block out a big chunk of time and put on some comfortable clothes you don't mind getting dirty. Put some kitten-testing toys in your pocket. A feather is ideal, but you can also use a pingpong ball, a cloth mouse or even a piece of string. (The string must leave when you do, though, since it's not suitable for unsupervised play.)

When you're at the shelter, take a deep breath and try not to be overwhelmed by so many adorable fuzzy faces. Try to look beyond such things as a beautiful long coat or that cute little Groucho mustache or those smart tuxedo markings. Sure, you ought to like the looks of your cat, but the personality is just as important.

Generally it's best to remove overly shy kittens from consideration, as well as those who spit and hiss at your approach or who stiffen or panic in your hands. From the friendlier kittens, choose one to play with first. Lift her out with a reassuring but gentle grip under her belly, and set her down in a secure observation area.

Let her explore her new environment a little while you settle onto the floor, and then, when she's satisfied with her surroundings, chirp at her and tease her with the feather or other toy. She should pursue it eagerly, batting at it and pouncing as she goes, and sitting up on her haunches to swat at it as you tease it overhead. This is all normal behavior for a healthy, outgoing kitten. If yours shows it, she's passed the feather test.

The kitten you want should be neither too shy nor too assertive and active. You're looking for a baby who's comfortable being held, who enjoys your petting and your soothing voice. One who wants nothing but to wriggle free and keep playing -- even if not doing so out of fear -- may grow up into a cat who is too active for you.

Spend a few moments of quiet time with each of your contenders and see how they react to you as an individual and vice versa. Let your heart weigh in a little here, and be receptive to the idea that one of these little fluffballs may be the one who's meant for you.

Play with as many kittens as you can and enjoy the time with each one. If you rush things and take the first kitten you see, the kitten who would have been a better match for you may never find a home. If you take your time, the animal you take home will be friendly and well-socialized, with an activity level you can live with, a cat who appeals to your aesthetic sense of what feline beauty is all about.

If you find that too many meet all your criteria, consider adopting two. Once the hissy-fit stage is past, cats enjoy the companionship of others of their own kind. You'll enjoy doubling your feline companionship, too!

PETS ON THE WEB

The School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of California, Davis, has put the newsletter of its Center for Companion Animal Health online (www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/CCAH/update). The recent issue includes articles on cancer and vaccine recommendations for dogs and cats. Past issues include reports on diabetes and on homemade diets. The site's a little on the pitchy side -- yes, donations to the school are a good thing -- but the information more than makes up for the subtle begging.

THE SCOOP

Indoor cats can be trained to enjoy an outdoor outing on leash, and for this treat, you need a harness. (Because cat collars are made to enable cats to slip out of them, don't use a collar with a leash.) Choose a harness designed for cats, not for dogs, in a figure-eight design. As collars do, harnesses come in many colors, with lightweight leashes to match.

Don't expect your cat to heel like a dog, however. Walking a cat consists of encouraging your pet to explore, with you following, offering plenty of praise and maybe a treat or two. Never leave your cat tethered and unattended. This leaves him vulnerable to attack or to a terrifying time of hanging suspended from his harness should he try to get over a fence.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I don't understand why my dog chews things when I'm gone. He knows it's wrong, and I know so because he acts guilty when I come home. Why doesn't he stop it? - D.F., via e-mail

A: Dogs don't know guilt; they don't know a behavior is bad until you teach them so; and they don't know how to be spiteful. They're just being dogs. They live in the now, and revenge is not in their gene pool. Barking, chewing and digging are natural, normal behaviors, part of every dog's DNA.

Dog don't chew because they're mad at you for leaving them; they chew because they're stressed about being alone. Chewing fills the time and makes them feel better.

Look at the situation through his eyes. Your person comes home, and you're trotting happily down the hall to meet him when you hear ... swearing. You pause, uncertain. Then ... yelling, and you hear your name in the middle of that diatribe. And you realize: He's mad at me! Why, you have no idea. You've long forgotten the chewing you did. But you're scared, and you're fairly certain that the most prudent plan of action would be to take off.

When he finds you, he's so angry it scares you, so you do your best to appease him, dog style. You roll over and show your belly, or maybe you release a little urine. Another dog would see both as efforts to say: "I'm sorry. I'm sorry. I don't know what's making you angry, but I apologize anyway." But instead ... more yelling and maybe a smack.

Get the point? A display like this one doesn't teach your dog anything except that you're an unpredictable lunatic. And that doesn't get you any closer to solving a behavior problem.

Stop! Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can help you work through the rough spots with your pet. Engaging the services of a professional is far cheaper in the long run than replacing furniture, carpets or landscaping, and it may save both your sanity and your dog's life.

Q: I am a home-care nurse with a client who allows her birds to walk, fly and "drop" all over her home and 6-week-old baby. My main concern is if there is any danger to the baby from the bird feces. I have not been able to find any printed information on the subject to give to the mother and would appreciate any direction you can offer. -- A.H., via e-mail

A: Yes, there is a possibility of disease from the situation you describe. All companion animals have the ability to share some diseases with their human caretakers. The illnesses are called "zoonotic" and range from parasites to salmonella to rabies. Children are at the biggest risk, along with people with compromised immune systems. But there's no doubt that even healthy adults can become seriously ill or even die from some animal-related diseases if they're not caught in time.

Basic common sense will take care of most of the risk -- and your client isn't showing a whole lot of it. All pets and their environments should be kept clean and free of parasites, and they should be vaccinated against diseases as recommended by a veterinarian. Pets, especially birds and reptiles, should not be allowed on counters and other food-preparation areas, and hand-washing should become part of the routine after handling pets.

Your client must keep bird droppings away from her baby, and she needs to learn about safe husbandry for the good of all concerned. Suggest that she talk to an avian veterinarian for guidance.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600