Not long ago, I wrote about how to pick a puppy and promptly got a lot of mail from people wanting to know about selecting a kitten. "Hey! What about kittens, you dope!" wrote one reader, tactfully.

Only so much can fit in any single column, I must say in my own defense. But only a dope would pass up the opportunity to write about kittens, especially now, when shelters are bursting with kittens who need homes. (Adult cats, too. And in some ways, they're a better choice than kittens.)

Yes, you can personality-test kittens, and it's great fun! Checking out kittens involves playing with them, and that's something you can never spend enough time doing.

Before you head for the shelter, block out a big chunk of time and put on some comfortable clothes you don't mind getting dirty. Put some kitten-testing toys in your pocket. A feather is ideal, but you can also use a pingpong ball, a cloth mouse or even a piece of string. (The string must leave when you do, though, since it's not suitable for unsupervised play.)

When you're at the shelter, take a deep breath and try not to be overwhelmed by so many adorable fuzzy faces. Try to look beyond such things as a beautiful long coat or that cute little Groucho mustache or those smart tuxedo markings. Sure, you ought to like the looks of your cat, but the personality is just as important.

Generally it's best to remove overly shy kittens from consideration, as well as those who spit and hiss at your approach or who stiffen or panic in your hands. From the friendlier kittens, choose one to play with first. Lift her out with a reassuring but gentle grip under her belly, and set her down in a secure observation area.

Let her explore her new environment a little while you settle onto the floor, and then, when she's satisfied with her surroundings, chirp at her and tease her with the feather or other toy. She should pursue it eagerly, batting at it and pouncing as she goes, and sitting up on her haunches to swat at it as you tease it overhead. This is all normal behavior for a healthy, outgoing kitten. If yours shows it, she's passed the feather test.

The kitten you want should be neither too shy nor too assertive and active. You're looking for a baby who's comfortable being held, who enjoys your petting and your soothing voice. One who wants nothing but to wriggle free and keep playing -- even if not doing so out of fear -- may grow up into a cat who is too active for you.

Spend a few moments of quiet time with each of your contenders and see how they react to you as an individual and vice versa. Let your heart weigh in a little here, and be receptive to the idea that one of these little fluffballs may be the one who's meant for you.

Play with as many kittens as you can and enjoy the time with each one. If you rush things and take the first kitten you see, the kitten who would have been a better match for you may never find a home. If you take your time, the animal you take home will be friendly and well-socialized, with an activity level you can live with, a cat who appeals to your aesthetic sense of what feline beauty is all about.

If you find that too many meet all your criteria, consider adopting two. Once the hissy-fit stage is past, cats enjoy the companionship of others of their own kind. You'll enjoy doubling your feline companionship, too!

PETS ON THE WEB

The School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of California, Davis, has put the newsletter of its Center for Companion Animal Health online (www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/CCAH/update). The recent issue includes articles on cancer and vaccine recommendations for dogs and cats. Past issues include reports on diabetes and on homemade diets. The site's a little on the pitchy side -- yes, donations to the school are a good thing -- but the information more than makes up for the subtle begging.

THE SCOOP

Indoor cats can be trained to enjoy an outdoor outing on leash, and for this treat, you need a harness. (Because cat collars are made to enable cats to slip out of them, don't use a collar with a leash.) Choose a harness designed for cats, not for dogs, in a figure-eight design. As collars do, harnesses come in many colors, with lightweight leashes to match.

Don't expect your cat to heel like a dog, however. Walking a cat consists of encouraging your pet to explore, with you following, offering plenty of praise and maybe a treat or two. Never leave your cat tethered and unattended. This leaves him vulnerable to attack or to a terrifying time of hanging suspended from his harness should he try to get over a fence.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I don't understand why my dog chews things when I'm gone. He knows it's wrong, and I know so because he acts guilty when I come home. Why doesn't he stop it? - D.F., via e-mail

A: Dogs don't know guilt; they don't know a behavior is bad until you teach them so; and they don't know how to be spiteful. They're just being dogs. They live in the now, and revenge is not in their gene pool. Barking, chewing and digging are natural, normal behaviors, part of every dog's DNA.

Dog don't chew because they're mad at you for leaving them; they chew because they're stressed about being alone. Chewing fills the time and makes them feel better.

Look at the situation through his eyes. Your person comes home, and you're trotting happily down the hall to meet him when you hear ... swearing. You pause, uncertain. Then ... yelling, and you hear your name in the middle of that diatribe. And you realize: He's mad at me! Why, you have no idea. You've long forgotten the chewing you did. But you're scared, and you're fairly certain that the most prudent plan of action would be to take off.

When he finds you, he's so angry it scares you, so you do your best to appease him, dog style. You roll over and show your belly, or maybe you release a little urine. Another dog would see both as efforts to say: "I'm sorry. I'm sorry. I don't know what's making you angry, but I apologize anyway." But instead ... more yelling and maybe a smack.

Get the point? A display like this one doesn't teach your dog anything except that you're an unpredictable lunatic. And that doesn't get you any closer to solving a behavior problem.

Stop! Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can help you work through the rough spots with your pet. Engaging the services of a professional is far cheaper in the long run than replacing furniture, carpets or landscaping, and it may save both your sanity and your dog's life.

Q: I am a home-care nurse with a client who allows her birds to walk, fly and "drop" all over her home and 6-week-old baby. My main concern is if there is any danger to the baby from the bird feces. I have not been able to find any printed information on the subject to give to the mother and would appreciate any direction you can offer. -- A.H., via e-mail

A: Yes, there is a possibility of disease from the situation you describe. All companion animals have the ability to share some diseases with their human caretakers. The illnesses are called "zoonotic" and range from parasites to salmonella to rabies. Children are at the biggest risk, along with people with compromised immune systems. But there's no doubt that even healthy adults can become seriously ill or even die from some animal-related diseases if they're not caught in time.

Basic common sense will take care of most of the risk -- and your client isn't showing a whole lot of it. All pets and their environments should be kept clean and free of parasites, and they should be vaccinated against diseases as recommended by a veterinarian. Pets, especially birds and reptiles, should not be allowed on counters and other food-preparation areas, and hand-washing should become part of the routine after handling pets.

Your client must keep bird droppings away from her baby, and she needs to learn about safe husbandry for the good of all concerned. Suggest that she talk to an avian veterinarian for guidance.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Julie Weiss Murad was having a week that seemed a month long, and it was only Tuesday when she sat down to talk about her life's work, an education, rescue and sanctuary organization for parrots.

She'd already spent a day in funding meetings, and most of another dealing with an accident that resulted in the death of a cherished horse. Stress and sadness lined her face, and she was visibly tired, but not so much as to pass up an opportunity to talk about parrots. Her nonprofit organization, The Gabriel Foundation, is a leader in the movement to provide a safey net for unwanted birds, but like any group that relies on the kindness of strangers, the going gets rough, even in the group's home base of Aspen, Colo., a community known for the wealth of its residents.

"How do I make my passion the passion of others?" she says. "The need is truly overwhelming."

Parrots have become increasingly popular as pets in recent years, and too many of the people who are drawn to their beauty are unaware of the challenges of keeping an animal only a generation or two removed from the wild. Birds are messy, and some can be very loud. Unless purchased from a reputable breeder or bird shop that understands the importance of good health and socialization and proper handling after purchase, problems such as biting can pop up, and few bird owners know enough about normal bird behavior to cope.

Birds are also given up when a bird owner marries, or when children arrive, or sometimes just because the owner tires of the work involved in keeping such a high-maintenance pet. Then, too, the long lives of parrots can leave them vulnerable -– with lifespans measured in decades, some birds outlive their owners.

For all these reasons and many more, too many parrots end up going from home to home before ending up in a place like the Gabriel Foundation, if they're lucky, or facing euthanasia if they're not. Few community shelters and humane groups are equipped to handle birds, which makes parrot sanctuaries even more important.

More than 100 birds who beat the odds currently live at the foundation, which Murad founded and named in honor of a hyacinth macaw who died because of a lack of understanding about proper care. In the last three years, the group has taken in 250 birds and placed more than 150 in new homes.

"By the time we get a bird here, the bird has usually gone through between three and six homes," said Murad, who then points out an Amazon named Winston, for whom the foundation is home No. 14.

Although all the birds are available for adoption, the truth is that many will never leave. They're too traumatized by past abuses to be handled, or too old, or too ill. Still, the foundation has its share of success stories, and will have more. Murad's in no hurry, though: Prospective adopters have been heard to complain it's easier to adopt a child than one of the Gabriel Foundation's birds. The foundation requires an extensive interview and plenty of education, and a three-month probation before any adoption is judged final.

"We want to make sure that the home any of these birds goes to is the last one," says Murad.

Murad is keenly aware of the limitations of her group, and others like them. "You can't save them all," she says sadly. The key to turning around the sad situation is education, she insists.

"How many people really make an educated purchase when it comes to birds?" she says. "How many pet stores will provide enough education to care for a bird properly?" The answer in both cases, says Murad, is "not enough." Even though parrots can cost hundreds and even thousands of dollars, people still buy them on impulse, and pet stores often don't or can't educate people –- or even possess the willingness to do so if it will stop a big sale.

Murad is dedicated to changing both situations, and she and others like her are making progress in helping people to provide what parrots need. "Love, respect, patience and positive interaction," she says.

All that, to be sure, but also a lot more support for organizations like the Gabriel Foundation.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Gabriel Foundation's Web site (www.thegabrielfoundation.org) offers information on the nonprofit organization, its programs, and the birds currently in its foster program. The site also provides information on the group's upcoming seminar on parrot rescue, foster care and placement, and the ethics of such groups, to be held Feb. 4-6 in Las Vegas. (If you don't have Web access, The Gabriel Foundation can be reached at P.O. Box 11477, Aspen, CO 81612; (970) 923-1009.)

THE SCOOP

Food, check. Dishes, check. Water, check. Leashes, collar and ID tags, check. Clean-up bags, check. A well-mannered dog is pretty easy to travel with, and even easier to pack for. No changes of underwear, no toothpaste, no summer reading, no sunscreen. But on my own recent trip from Colorado home to California with my youngest dog, Heather, I was reminded of one item I forgot to pack -– a penlight.

When you're traveling with your dog you haven't the luxury of just opening the door to let your pet into your yard to take care of business. You have to be in attendance, at the other end of the leash with clean-up bag in hand. I quickly realized that Heather's schedule included one after-dark outing, which made clean-up impossible. The first time it happened, I got up at first light the next morning, found and disposed of the mess. I picked up an inexpensive penlight that day, and for the rest of the trip was able to bag it even in the dark.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I was wondering what breed of cat I have. She is a very common cat that lots of people have, but I can't ever find her pattern in books that list types of cats or on the Internet. She is black and her stomach and paws are white. -- C.S., via e-mail

A: I get this kind of question a lot. Someone adopts a gray kitten from the shelter and wonders if the cat is a Russian blue, or where they can buy a cat of the "calico" breed.

The truth is, the overwhelming majority of cats aren't any "breed" at all. At most only one cat in 10 is a purebred. Most cats are what veterinarians call "domestic shorthair" (DSH) or "domestic longhair" (DLH); in earlier times they would have been called "alley cats." These cats are purely random-bred, and any number of coat patterns can be a result, even some that resemble those of purebreds.

"DSH" and "DLH" sound so dry, and "alley cat" so disrespectful of the important position cats hold in our hearts. Personally, I would love to see the endearing British name for random-bred cats catch on -– "moggie."

Since you didn't say that your cat was purchased with a pedigree, I'm guessing she is indeed a moggie. The pattern you describe is what most people refer to as a "tuxedo cat," a handsome animal who's always ready for a formal occasion.

"Tuxedo," "calico," "tortoiseshell" and "tabby" are words that describe cat markings, not breeds. The familiar stripes of a tabby are the most common of all cat coat patterns, and like other patterns it shows up not only in random-bred cats but also in many purebreds.

Q: I am 14, and I have a parrot, an Amazon. I just wanted to know if there was any way I can tell if it's a male or a female. -– A.N., via e-mail

A: While it's safe to figure parrots themselves can tell the girls from the boys, in most of the species we keep as pets, it's not possible for us to just look at a bird and sort things out. As befitting an animal for whom aerodynamics are important, the reproductive system of birds is internal, with nothing on the outside to provide any clue.

Some species are indeed "sexually dimorphic," meaning that males and female are marked differently. The most striking example of this can be found in eclectus parrots, in which the genders are marked so differently they were once thought to be different species. The male is a bright green, while the female is a vivid red and purple.

For most parrot species, however, you'll need the help of a veterinarian to determine gender. Most commonly, a blood sample is drawn and the DNA tested to reveal the gender of an individual bird. Birds can also be surgically sexed -- the veterinarian will go inside a bird to determine not only what kind of reproductive organs are present, but also if they're normal and mature.

Many people don't know and don't care what gender their parrot is. If you're one of them, choose a nice unisex name like Jan for your pet. If you have to know, call an avian veterinarian to discuss your options.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Although not as many specialists exist in veterinary medicine as in human medicine, the kinds and the number of certified veterinary experts grow every year. And that's good news for our pets.

Current companion-animal specialties include such "system" areas of expertise as cardiology, dentistry, dermatology and oncology. There are also "species" specialists, such as those veterinarians certified as experts on bird health. Behavior specialists are becoming more common as well. These veterinarians help people and their pets work through such problems as house-soiling or separation anxiety with the aid of medication and behavior-modification techniques.

"System" specialties usually require additional study in a two- to five-year residency program, followed by a rigorous examination. These certifications are handled by a board such as the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, which is why certified specialists are sometimes referred to as "boarded" or "board-certified."

For veterinarians already in practice, the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners also offers specialty certifications, including those in feline and avian practice. The certifications also require passing a difficult examination.

What kind of specialty a veterinarian has will be reflected by the letters after his or her name. Once certified, they are referred to as "Diplomates," abbreviated either as "Dipl." or sometimes just "D," followed by the initials of the certifying body and the nature of the specialty. For example, a veterinary cardiologist would have the following alphabet soup after his name: DVM, Dipl. ACVIM (cardiology). An avian specialist would be DVM, Dipl. ABVP (avian practice).

Many urban centers support independent specialists or specialty practices, but in less populated areas you're more likely to find a full complement of specialists at the closest university with a school or college of veterinary medicine. Only veterinarians who are board-certified are allowed to call themselves specialists.

While species specialists such as avian veterinarians serve as primary health-care providers as well as consultants, system specialists are usually called on a case-by-case basis to work on specific problems in which they have more experience than most veterinarians.

The relationship between your pet's regular veterinarian and a specialist is one of cooperation and trust. Your veterinarian will consult with or refer you to a specialist knowing that when the situation he sent you there for is resolved, you will be sent back to his practice. Without this understanding, your regular veterinarian would be understandably reluctant to refer a client he will not get back.

You have a role in keeping the specialty system healthy as well. If you believe your pet has a problem that could use the expertise of a specialist, talk to your veterinarian about a referral. Let your veterinarian know that you aren't questioning his care but want to bring more specialized expertise in to help your pet. If you have a cooperative relationship with a good veterinarian, calling in a specialist is never a problem.

If your veterinarian is reluctant to refer you to a specialist, remember that the final decision in your pet's care is always yours. Keep the lines of communication open with your veterinarian if you can, but realize your pet's care is your responsibility and seek a second option or specialist on your own.

PETS ON THE WEB

I'm of the opinion that we as a society don't always do a fabulous job taking care of dogs and cats, so we really don't need to add exotics to the list of animals that too many of us will buy on impulse and dump just as quickly, or kill through ignorance or neglect. But a lot of people disagree with me, and the pet trade is happy to provide these folks with everything from tarantulas to tigers.

The People for Domestic Skunks Web site (www.domesticskunks.com) doesn't make any effort to be neutral on the subject of exotic pets; the folks behind it love and care for their skunks and are fighting for the right to keep them. It's an interesting site, full of strongly worded statements that should raise an eyebrow or two. You'll also find pictures of pet skunks (who come in brown-and-white and all-white in addition to the familiar black-and-white markings), along with stories, a petition, and links to other sites dedicated to these unusual pets.

THE SCOOP

Performing any kind of surgery on rabbits was until recently considered too risky to try except in life-threatening emergencies, which is why veterinarians sometimes discouraged spaying and neutering. That's not the case today. As with dogs and cats, there are more rabbits than homes, making population control important for these pets who breed like, well, rabbits. Male rabbits are neutered around the age of 14 weeks, while females are usually done a little later, from 16 weeks to 6 months. Of course, these procedures can also be done on adult rabbits.

The benefits go beyond avoiding babies. Altered rabbits have fewer health and behavior problems than ones who haven't had the procedures done. Not all veterinarians feel comfortable working on rabbits, though, so it's important to find one with experience in caring for them. The House Rabbit Society keeps a list of "bun-friendly" vets. Call the society at (510) 521-4631, or visit the Web site at www.rabbit.org.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 9-week-old Yorkie mix. He seems to be almost totally uninterested in food. He eats only a few bites a day of his dry food, and I spend most of my waking hours trying to dream up things he might be interested in eating, most to no avail.

He is not ill in any way. He is incredibly playful and seems to be full of energy and vigor, but I don't know what the eating deal is. -- C.Y., via e-mail

A: You are single-handedly teaching your dog to be a finicky eater. Look at it from his point of view. He's a normal, active puppy, easily distracted and wanting to play, play, play. Food? Just not that exciting.

You put down dry food. He'd rather play. You add something yummy, it catches his interest and he eats. But the next day, he'd rather play. So you try something else ... and something else ... and something else.

What have you taught your pup? You've shown him that if he waits, something better (or at least different) will come along. Stop, or you'll be sauteing tender strips of organically raised chicken breast or opening cans of caviar for him.

Puppies should be fed three times a day until the age of 6 months or so, when they can go to the twice-a-day schedule that adult dogs should be on. Don't keep food available at all times. It makes house-training more difficult and removes the power of food as a training tool. (Fresh water, on the other hand, should always be accessible.)

Give your little guy a quiet place to eat with no distractions. A crate is ideal, but a small room with a baby gate across it will also do. Put the food down and leave your pup alone for a half-hour. Then pick up the food, eaten or not, and give your pet no food until the next scheduled feeding. Repeat at noon and at night.

Don't worry if he misses a meal. He won't starve. Resist the temptation to give him treats in between, because it doesn't take much to fill up a small dog.

If you want to add something to increase palatability, warm and add a little low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth. But that's it. Don't fall back into the habit of constantly finding something "better." Give your pet a high-quality kibble and teach him to eat what's offered. You'll both be better off.

Q: At what age is a puppy considered an adult dog? I have a collie, and I'm trying to figure out if she is fully grown. -- Amy, via e-mail.

A: In general, the larger the dog, the longer it takes to become mature. Small dogs such as the toy breeds and most terriers may be pretty much full grown before they reach their first birthday, while giant breeds can still be filling out beyond the age of 2. Your collie will probably reach her full height by a year, but may still be adding bulk and coat for a year or more after that.

You'll find some differences within the breeds, too. For example, my youngest dog, Heather, comes from a line of dogs who develop physically somewhat slowly compared to other flat-coated retrievers. She's nearly 3 and is just now looking like other girls her age in the show ring.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600