Although not as many specialists exist in veterinary medicine as in human medicine, the kinds and the number of certified veterinary experts grow every year. And that's good news for our pets.

Current companion-animal specialties include such "system" areas of expertise as cardiology, dentistry, dermatology and oncology. There are also "species" specialists, such as those veterinarians certified as experts on bird health. Behavior specialists are becoming more common as well. These veterinarians help people and their pets work through such problems as house-soiling or separation anxiety with the aid of medication and behavior-modification techniques.

"System" specialties usually require additional study in a two- to five-year residency program, followed by a rigorous examination. These certifications are handled by a board such as the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, which is why certified specialists are sometimes referred to as "boarded" or "board-certified."

For veterinarians already in practice, the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners also offers specialty certifications, including those in feline and avian practice. The certifications also require passing a difficult examination.

What kind of specialty a veterinarian has will be reflected by the letters after his or her name. Once certified, they are referred to as "Diplomates," abbreviated either as "Dipl." or sometimes just "D," followed by the initials of the certifying body and the nature of the specialty. For example, a veterinary cardiologist would have the following alphabet soup after his name: DVM, Dipl. ACVIM (cardiology). An avian specialist would be DVM, Dipl. ABVP (avian practice).

Many urban centers support independent specialists or specialty practices, but in less populated areas you're more likely to find a full complement of specialists at the closest university with a school or college of veterinary medicine. Only veterinarians who are board-certified are allowed to call themselves specialists.

While species specialists such as avian veterinarians serve as primary health-care providers as well as consultants, system specialists are usually called on a case-by-case basis to work on specific problems in which they have more experience than most veterinarians.

The relationship between your pet's regular veterinarian and a specialist is one of cooperation and trust. Your veterinarian will consult with or refer you to a specialist knowing that when the situation he sent you there for is resolved, you will be sent back to his practice. Without this understanding, your regular veterinarian would be understandably reluctant to refer a client he will not get back.

You have a role in keeping the specialty system healthy as well. If you believe your pet has a problem that could use the expertise of a specialist, talk to your veterinarian about a referral. Let your veterinarian know that you aren't questioning his care but want to bring more specialized expertise in to help your pet. If you have a cooperative relationship with a good veterinarian, calling in a specialist is never a problem.

If your veterinarian is reluctant to refer you to a specialist, remember that the final decision in your pet's care is always yours. Keep the lines of communication open with your veterinarian if you can, but realize your pet's care is your responsibility and seek a second option or specialist on your own.

PETS ON THE WEB

I'm of the opinion that we as a society don't always do a fabulous job taking care of dogs and cats, so we really don't need to add exotics to the list of animals that too many of us will buy on impulse and dump just as quickly, or kill through ignorance or neglect. But a lot of people disagree with me, and the pet trade is happy to provide these folks with everything from tarantulas to tigers.

The People for Domestic Skunks Web site (www.domesticskunks.com) doesn't make any effort to be neutral on the subject of exotic pets; the folks behind it love and care for their skunks and are fighting for the right to keep them. It's an interesting site, full of strongly worded statements that should raise an eyebrow or two. You'll also find pictures of pet skunks (who come in brown-and-white and all-white in addition to the familiar black-and-white markings), along with stories, a petition, and links to other sites dedicated to these unusual pets.

THE SCOOP

Performing any kind of surgery on rabbits was until recently considered too risky to try except in life-threatening emergencies, which is why veterinarians sometimes discouraged spaying and neutering. That's not the case today. As with dogs and cats, there are more rabbits than homes, making population control important for these pets who breed like, well, rabbits. Male rabbits are neutered around the age of 14 weeks, while females are usually done a little later, from 16 weeks to 6 months. Of course, these procedures can also be done on adult rabbits.

The benefits go beyond avoiding babies. Altered rabbits have fewer health and behavior problems than ones who haven't had the procedures done. Not all veterinarians feel comfortable working on rabbits, though, so it's important to find one with experience in caring for them. The House Rabbit Society keeps a list of "bun-friendly" vets. Call the society at (510) 521-4631, or visit the Web site at www.rabbit.org.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 9-week-old Yorkie mix. He seems to be almost totally uninterested in food. He eats only a few bites a day of his dry food, and I spend most of my waking hours trying to dream up things he might be interested in eating, most to no avail.

He is not ill in any way. He is incredibly playful and seems to be full of energy and vigor, but I don't know what the eating deal is. -- C.Y., via e-mail

A: You are single-handedly teaching your dog to be a finicky eater. Look at it from his point of view. He's a normal, active puppy, easily distracted and wanting to play, play, play. Food? Just not that exciting.

You put down dry food. He'd rather play. You add something yummy, it catches his interest and he eats. But the next day, he'd rather play. So you try something else ... and something else ... and something else.

What have you taught your pup? You've shown him that if he waits, something better (or at least different) will come along. Stop, or you'll be sauteing tender strips of organically raised chicken breast or opening cans of caviar for him.

Puppies should be fed three times a day until the age of 6 months or so, when they can go to the twice-a-day schedule that adult dogs should be on. Don't keep food available at all times. It makes house-training more difficult and removes the power of food as a training tool. (Fresh water, on the other hand, should always be accessible.)

Give your little guy a quiet place to eat with no distractions. A crate is ideal, but a small room with a baby gate across it will also do. Put the food down and leave your pup alone for a half-hour. Then pick up the food, eaten or not, and give your pet no food until the next scheduled feeding. Repeat at noon and at night.

Don't worry if he misses a meal. He won't starve. Resist the temptation to give him treats in between, because it doesn't take much to fill up a small dog.

If you want to add something to increase palatability, warm and add a little low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth. But that's it. Don't fall back into the habit of constantly finding something "better." Give your pet a high-quality kibble and teach him to eat what's offered. You'll both be better off.

Q: At what age is a puppy considered an adult dog? I have a collie, and I'm trying to figure out if she is fully grown. -- Amy, via e-mail.

A: In general, the larger the dog, the longer it takes to become mature. Small dogs such as the toy breeds and most terriers may be pretty much full grown before they reach their first birthday, while giant breeds can still be filling out beyond the age of 2. Your collie will probably reach her full height by a year, but may still be adding bulk and coat for a year or more after that.

You'll find some differences within the breeds, too. For example, my youngest dog, Heather, comes from a line of dogs who develop physically somewhat slowly compared to other flat-coated retrievers. She's nearly 3 and is just now looking like other girls her age in the show ring.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

How do you know which puppy is the right one when you're looking at a litter in someone's home or at an even larger group of puppies in a shelter? So many choices, and making the right one is very important.

How can you decide? By doing as good breeders and shelters do, by observing the puppies and by testing them. Testing is meant to get an early indication of a pup's aptitude in three critical areas: dominance, sociability and trainability.

People tend to be drawn to the boldest or the shyest pups, even though these are rarely the best choice for most situations. Dominance -- or lack of it -- is important to consider because a dog who's too bossy or too shy is difficult to train and to live with. In the cases where a dominant pup is allowed to become an aggressive dog, the problem is more than "difficult" -- such dogs are dangerous!

Sociability is important, too. Some puppies are more dog-oriented or really don't care much about anything at all. A puppy who's not curious and interested in people -- perhaps because of little or no socialization -- isn't a very good prospect as a pet.

Trainability is related to the other two qualities. It's not really about intelligence as much as it's about willingness. A people-oriented pup who's confident but not too bold is going to be easier to train.

So how do you figure out which pup has the right stuff? Take each of the puppies you're considering to a safe, secure area away from the others. Observe how each puppy reacts to the change. Tentative exploration is OK, but beware the puppy who's so terrified she won't move. Look, too, for how busy a puppy is. Playfulness is fine, but full-out go-go-go is maybe a little too much. After you've watched for a while, try these simple tests:

-- Does the puppy accept authority? Gently roll the puppy onto his back and hold him there with your hand. The pup you're looking for will fuss a little, settle down, and maybe even lick your hand. Bossy pups usually keep struggling and biting, and the shyest ones generally freeze in terror.

-- Is the puppy interested in people? Put the puppy down facing you. Walk a few steps away, bend over and call to him (bending over makes you less intimidating). If the puppy seems a little tentative, crouch and open your arms. You're not "ordering" the pup -- he doesn't know what you want, after all. You're trying to see how attracted he is to a nice person. Call gently, click your tongue, rattle your keys. The puppy you want will probably trot over happily, perhaps after a slight hesitation. The bossy puppy may come over and nip and jump at you, and the shy one may not move except to shiver in terror. The one who doesn't care a bit about people may go investigate a bug in the corner of the room.

-- Does the puppy want your affection? Praising and petting are integral parts of training and communicating with your dogs, and finding a puppy who wants affection is important. Talk to the puppy lovingly and stroke him, but let him decide whether he stays with you or not -- don't hold him. The medium puppy will probably lick your hands and be glad to stay with you. Rolling over is OK, and don't be surprised if he urinates a little. Called "submissive urination," this gesture is kind of a canine compliment, a recognition that you're "top dog." A puppy who bites hard is probably dominant and unsocialized, and the one who wants nothing to do with you probably isn't people-oriented enough. Stay away, too, from the one who's terrified of being touched.

Ideally, you'll be discussing your observations with shelter staff or the reputable breeder whose pups you're considering. It's important at this stage to listen to your head, not your heart. Pick a puppy with a temperament that's likely to produce a good pet for you and your family. The right pup has the best chance to grow up to be the dog you're dreaming of.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Delta Society (www.deltasociety.org) is an organization dedicated to making the most out of the natural bond between people and animals. The group provides information and resources on a variety of topics, including dogs who serve people with disabilities and animal-assisted therapy programs, such as those that take animals into nursing homes or provide therapeutic horseback riding for disabled children and adults. Delta also offers a variety of publications and recognizes groups and individuals with a variety of annual awards. The site is clean, well-designed and easy to navigate, and offers lots to learn on this extraordinary group.

THE SCOOP

Would you know what to do if your dog became overheated? Frantic panting and glassy eyes are early signs of a dog in trouble, and you need to cool him off and get help. While some sources recommend using ice to cool down a dog, emergency-care veterinarians say that's dangerous. Instead, apply as much cool -- not cold -- water as you can to your dog's body, and rush him to the vet's as soon as possible. Heat can be lethal quickly, so don't take any chances. And don't forget that the best "treatment" for heat-related problems is preventive. Make sure your dog always has a shade and water, and don't push him to exercise in the hottest part of the day. Older or obese dogs, or short-nosed dogs such as pugs or boxers are at the greatest risk, as are those with black coats such as Rottweilers.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I was given a cat to care for by a family down my street when they went on vacation. Four weeks into the deal, I notice a "sold" sign on their door. They had moved!

This little kitten is only about 10 weeks old and loves me to death. I don't know anything about her, her shot records or anything. I don't know if I can even take her to a vet to check her out, because technically, she's not mine. What do I do? -- A.S., via e-mail

A: Would you believe yours was my fourth letter about an abandoned pet in a week? At least the kitten you write about was left in good hands -- yours. Hell isn't hot enough for people who leave pets to fend for themselves.

The laws on abandoned or stray animals vary from community to community. I would call your local animal-control department and humane society to see what they recommend you do. Check, too, with the post office and phone company for forwarding information -- you might be able to contact the kitten's previous owners directly and make sure they intended that you keep the kitten. (I can't imagine they care one way or the other, but knowing for sure is always good.)

In the meantime, take the kitten to your veterinarian for routine preventive care as recommended. I suspect from the obvious affection you have for this little girl, you'll probably be ending up with her. But even if you opt to find her a home, you'll have an easier time of it if you can show that she's healthy.

Q: I am interested in purchasing a round floor-model cage for my pet parrots. Both my parrots have large square cages now, but I would like to keep them in a different part of the house during the evening hours. The room will accommodate a round cage much better than a square cage. It would be only for short periods of time.

I've been told by a woman who has many birds that it is not healthy to house parrots in a round cage. Is there any truth to this? -- B.P., via the Internet

A: Large cages with square corners are indeed a better choice, especially when they are designed to offer nearly as much horizontal as vertical space. Round cages don't offer as much "living room" as similarly sized cages with square corners. Most round cages are also too narrow.

Because your parrots spend most of their time in appropriate cages, though, I don't see any reason why a little time each evening in round cages would hurt them. Indeed, I see advantages, if these additional cages allow them to spend more time with you.

Whatever cage you buy, be sure the bar spacing is proper for your pets. The basic bar spacing for cockatiels is about three-quarters of an inch, with larger spacing for Amazons and macaws. Make sure, too, that connections are smooth and free of obvious welds, which parrots can chew and swallow, and become ill as a result.

An option to round cages worth considering is a large play gym. These come in all sizes, materials and designs, and are widely available from reputable bird shops, catalogs or online retailers, or in the back of bird magazines. A play gym will keep your birds near you while offering lots to chew on and play with -- and that's always good for these busybodies.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

This is the time of year when kittens are everywhere, and some cat lovers start to imagine their single cat would like a companion. With visions of frisky, devoted felines dancing in their heads, they bring home a new fuzzy baby.

The cat's response: "For me? No thanks!" And that's the polite version, just before he disappears into the most remote corner of the house in protest.

Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with lots of pitfalls alone the way. Some cats hide under the bed. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

While these are all normal feline reactions to stress, the bad habits cats may develop while coming to terms with something new could become a permanent part of their routine. Which is why, for your cat's sake and your own, you need to remember one word when introducing any change to your cat.

That word? "Slowly."

Introducing a second cat to the household is a time when patience is never more important.

Despite your pet's initial misgivings, adding a companion can be a wonderful idea, especially for an indoor cat. More cats today spend their lives inside, protected from deadly hazards such as cars and contagious diseases. There are trade-offs, though: An outdoor cat's life may be shorter, but it is filled with smells and sounds and other animals. We must make up some of the difference, enriching the lives of our indoor cats.

Cat trees, screened porches, edible indoor greenery and a wide variety of toys are important, but so, too, is a playmate. For pets who spend hours alone while their owners are at work, another cat can fill that lonely time.

If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want two, it's easiest to adopt two kittens at the same time, preferably from the same litter. Kittens don't have the sense of territory grown cats have and will settle down together into a new home nicely.

But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with a companion. Since the worst territorial spats -- complete with urine-marking -- are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful co-existence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. (Separate gear may be a temporary arrangement, or it may be lifelong; it all depends on the cats involved.) This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Take your new cat to your veterinarian first, to be checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.

Bring the cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore, and when the new cat is alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly -- there's that word again -- feed them in ever-closer proximity.

Most cats, but not all, will eventually learn to live together happily. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Labrador retriever is the nation's most popular dog, and with good reason. Versatile, outgoing and easily trained, the Lab is a good choice for almost any living situation. As with any popular breed, though, uncaring or ignorant breeders are busily producing hordes of Labs with health and temperament problems, and if you're thinking about a Lab, you need to know how to avoid these breeders. One great place to start your research is The Labrador Retriever Home Page (www.K9web.com/breeds/l/labrador). The resource is impressively broad, with information on breeders, rescue, health problems, training, competitions and more. Easy to navigate, too, with lots of links.

THE SCOOP

Since dog trainers enjoy living with well-mannered dogs, it's not surprising that many of them gravitate toward breeds that are easy to train and want to please their owners -- border collies and other herding breeds, Labradors, goldens and other retrievers. When they write books about training (and it seems most of them eventually do, judging by the number of training books out there), they often assume your dog will be as motivated to mind as the ones they're used to training.

But what if your dog simply couldn't care less what you want? What if he's independent, stubborn or both? Betty Fisher and Suzanne Delzio will help you cope with their fine book, "So Your Dog's Not Lassie: Tips for Training Difficult Dogs and Independent Breeds" (Harper Perennial, $15). The pair do a great job of explaining why some breeds are more difficult than others, and their book is easy to follow, easy to understand, and packed with lots of great tips. If your dog gives you a "You talkin' to me?" look when you say "Sit," you need this book.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just got a new kitten, and she's adorable. But she seems determined to chew on electrical cords. How can I get her to stop? -- D.G., via e-mail

A: Bundle up the extra cord, tuck it out of sight, and spray anything that remains within reach of your kitten with something that tastes nasty, such as the commercial chew-stopper Bitter Apple, available at most pet-supply stores. For the tangle of cords connecting your home computer to its printer, monitor, modem or what-have-you, check at your hardware or computer store for cord containers. The one I use looks like the exhaust hose from a clothes dryer, only narrower, with a slit along its length to tuck cords into.

Another cord caution: Be especially careful when using an iron around your kitten. The act of ironing makes the cord dance appealingly, and your kitten may jump on the cord after you've set the iron down -- bringing the appliance crashing down. When you're done ironing, put the cord on top of the board, and remember to put everything promptly away when cool.

Q: Do you think pet groomers should be tipped? -- C.S., via e-mail

A: I most certainly do! Grooming pets is hard work under the best of circumstances -- lots of lifting, lots of heat and dampness, and constant exposure to scented and pesticide-laced products. And that's just for starters. Groomers also deal with unmannered and too often badly matted pets, and occasionally get a bite for their trouble.

A good groomer is worth her weight in gold. Not only will she keep your pet's coat in good shape, but she'll also notice and point out lumps, bumps, weight gain or loss, parasite problems and more.

Typical tipping range: 10 percent to 20 percent. I tip 25 percent on Sheltie Andy's monthly wash-and-dry, and think it's a bargain. (The two retrievers I do myself.)

Q: I have a 9-month-old Boston terrier. I want to have her spayed, but I've been told to let her have a litter of puppies first. I was told that this will help to calm her down. Is that true? -- D.F., via e-mail

A: Absolutely not. Spay her as soon as possible to get the most health benefits from the procedure. By spaying, you protect her from some cancers and from the possibility of life-threatening infections. And you'll be keeping puppies from coming into a world where there are already too many -- and that includes purebreds.

The "one litter first" idea is another of those old myths that never seem to go away. The benefits of spaying (and neutering, of course) speak for themselves. Call your veterinarian today.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600