This is the time of year when kittens are everywhere, and some cat lovers start to imagine their single cat would like a companion. With visions of frisky, devoted felines dancing in their heads, they bring home a new fuzzy baby.

The cat's response: "For me? No thanks!" And that's the polite version, just before he disappears into the most remote corner of the house in protest.

Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with lots of pitfalls alone the way. Some cats hide under the bed. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

While these are all normal feline reactions to stress, the bad habits cats may develop while coming to terms with something new could become a permanent part of their routine. Which is why, for your cat's sake and your own, you need to remember one word when introducing any change to your cat.

That word? "Slowly."

Introducing a second cat to the household is a time when patience is never more important.

Despite your pet's initial misgivings, adding a companion can be a wonderful idea, especially for an indoor cat. More cats today spend their lives inside, protected from deadly hazards such as cars and contagious diseases. There are trade-offs, though: An outdoor cat's life may be shorter, but it is filled with smells and sounds and other animals. We must make up some of the difference, enriching the lives of our indoor cats.

Cat trees, screened porches, edible indoor greenery and a wide variety of toys are important, but so, too, is a playmate. For pets who spend hours alone while their owners are at work, another cat can fill that lonely time.

If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want two, it's easiest to adopt two kittens at the same time, preferably from the same litter. Kittens don't have the sense of territory grown cats have and will settle down together into a new home nicely.

But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with a companion. Since the worst territorial spats -- complete with urine-marking -- are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful co-existence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. (Separate gear may be a temporary arrangement, or it may be lifelong; it all depends on the cats involved.) This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Take your new cat to your veterinarian first, to be checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.

Bring the cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore, and when the new cat is alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly -- there's that word again -- feed them in ever-closer proximity.

Most cats, but not all, will eventually learn to live together happily. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Labrador retriever is the nation's most popular dog, and with good reason. Versatile, outgoing and easily trained, the Lab is a good choice for almost any living situation. As with any popular breed, though, uncaring or ignorant breeders are busily producing hordes of Labs with health and temperament problems, and if you're thinking about a Lab, you need to know how to avoid these breeders. One great place to start your research is The Labrador Retriever Home Page (www.K9web.com/breeds/l/labrador). The resource is impressively broad, with information on breeders, rescue, health problems, training, competitions and more. Easy to navigate, too, with lots of links.

THE SCOOP

Since dog trainers enjoy living with well-mannered dogs, it's not surprising that many of them gravitate toward breeds that are easy to train and want to please their owners -- border collies and other herding breeds, Labradors, goldens and other retrievers. When they write books about training (and it seems most of them eventually do, judging by the number of training books out there), they often assume your dog will be as motivated to mind as the ones they're used to training.

But what if your dog simply couldn't care less what you want? What if he's independent, stubborn or both? Betty Fisher and Suzanne Delzio will help you cope with their fine book, "So Your Dog's Not Lassie: Tips for Training Difficult Dogs and Independent Breeds" (Harper Perennial, $15). The pair do a great job of explaining why some breeds are more difficult than others, and their book is easy to follow, easy to understand, and packed with lots of great tips. If your dog gives you a "You talkin' to me?" look when you say "Sit," you need this book.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We just got a new kitten, and she's adorable. But she seems determined to chew on electrical cords. How can I get her to stop? -- D.G., via e-mail

A: Bundle up the extra cord, tuck it out of sight, and spray anything that remains within reach of your kitten with something that tastes nasty, such as the commercial chew-stopper Bitter Apple, available at most pet-supply stores. For the tangle of cords connecting your home computer to its printer, monitor, modem or what-have-you, check at your hardware or computer store for cord containers. The one I use looks like the exhaust hose from a clothes dryer, only narrower, with a slit along its length to tuck cords into.

Another cord caution: Be especially careful when using an iron around your kitten. The act of ironing makes the cord dance appealingly, and your kitten may jump on the cord after you've set the iron down -- bringing the appliance crashing down. When you're done ironing, put the cord on top of the board, and remember to put everything promptly away when cool.

Q: Do you think pet groomers should be tipped? -- C.S., via e-mail

A: I most certainly do! Grooming pets is hard work under the best of circumstances -- lots of lifting, lots of heat and dampness, and constant exposure to scented and pesticide-laced products. And that's just for starters. Groomers also deal with unmannered and too often badly matted pets, and occasionally get a bite for their trouble.

A good groomer is worth her weight in gold. Not only will she keep your pet's coat in good shape, but she'll also notice and point out lumps, bumps, weight gain or loss, parasite problems and more.

Typical tipping range: 10 percent to 20 percent. I tip 25 percent on Sheltie Andy's monthly wash-and-dry, and think it's a bargain. (The two retrievers I do myself.)

Q: I have a 9-month-old Boston terrier. I want to have her spayed, but I've been told to let her have a litter of puppies first. I was told that this will help to calm her down. Is that true? -- D.F., via e-mail

A: Absolutely not. Spay her as soon as possible to get the most health benefits from the procedure. By spaying, you protect her from some cancers and from the possibility of life-threatening infections. And you'll be keeping puppies from coming into a world where there are already too many -- and that includes purebreds.

The "one litter first" idea is another of those old myths that never seem to go away. The benefits of spaying (and neutering, of course) speak for themselves. Call your veterinarian today.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Toy dogs have more than a few special things about them, most good, some not so good. The upside: They're adorable. They're portable. They're usually long-lived. On the downside, they seem to be exceptionally hard to house-train.

The problem, says small-dog expert Darlene Arden, is mostly human.

"People don't have the same expectations of a toy dog that they would of a golden retriever or Great Dane," says Arden, author of "The Irrepressible Toy Dog" (Howell Book House, $17.95). "Everyone looks at a toy dog as a perpetual infant.

"And because of that and the difference in the amount left behind, people just don't seem to care until they step in it at 2 in the morning, or until company's coming and the house smells bad."

This lack of consistency on the part of doting humans isn't the only problem, she says, pointing out that many small dogs are in trouble from the moment they're brought home as puppies. Many small dogs in the most popular breeds -- such as Yorkies, Maltese or toy poodles -- come from puppy mills or other large-scale breeders who simply don't take the time to lay the groundwork that makes house-training easier.

"These puppies grow up on a paper, eat on the paper, sleep on the paper, go on the paper," says Arden, who notes that puppies raised under such conditions learn to live in their own filth. Buying from a reputable breeder is essential, she says, not just for proper early training, but also for health screening and socialization.

Even poorly raised dogs can usually be trained, says Arden. You have to start by looking at things from a small dog's point of view -- and that can be very hard for people who think their dogs are little people.

For example, you have to make sure your dog can feel safe in the outdoor spot you've chosen for him. The act of elimination is one when a dog's guard is down, and when you weigh 10 pounds or less, it's important to feel you're not going to be attacked. "They feel vulnerable," says Arden. "You need to find that one very safe spot for them." And keep the grass short so the dog doesn't feel as if he's hacking through a jungle, she adds.

Cold weather can also make house-training more difficult. Little dogs lose heat rapidly and would rather use a nice corner of a warm house than venture outside. Sweaters, says Arden, are not silly for the little dog and can help with house-training.

Despite the special challenges the small dog presents, Arden says house-training is possible. Once your dog has that safe spot outside, you can teach him to use it with the aid of a schedule, praise, and a dedication to consistency.

"Feed on a schedule," says Arden, "and be aware of when the puppy has to go. You must take your dog out after he eats, after play, after any kind of stimulation.

"Take a very special treat and your happiest voice to the special spot. The moment the puppy's feet hit the ground, get excited." When the deed is done, says Arden, praise to the heavens and deliver the treat.

Limiting a dog's range in the house helps, too. "I'm a firm believer in crate-training -- as a tool, not a punishment," says Arden. "A crate keeps a dog out of trouble when you can't watch him."

Mistakes are part of the learning process and should never be punished. "If you see the dog starting to go in the house, pick him up and run him to that special spot," says Arden, and praise when the dog finishes up outside.

Your biggest ally in the struggle to get your dog house-trained is the typical toy dog temperament. They want to please you, says Arden. "Because they bond so tightly with their owners, toy dogs want to do what you want." You just have to help gently steer them in the right direction.

PETS ON THE WEB

Nobody likes dealing with dog poop, but some folks apparently find it a source of amusement. More such people exist than you'd imagine, and they're all busy making the Strange Foreign Objects in Dog Feces Web site (www.watchingyou.com/poop.html) both thoroughly disgusting and absolutely hilarious. This site was suggested by reader Jack Russell -- who takes care to point out he's not a small spotted terrier. (He needn't have bothered. I get very few letters from dogs of any kind -- owing, I'm guessing, to the shamefully poor design of computer keyboards when it comes to accommodating dog paws.)

Here's the, er, poop on this unusual site: Dogs eat many things that aren't digestible, and many of them show up you know where. It's hard to pick the most remarkable thing ever make the journey, but a Barbie doll has to be pretty close. Check it out, but not near mealtime.

THE SCOOP

Don't underestimate food as a way to keep your bird busy and amused. Check out food holders designed to make eating a challenge. These holders have skewers or nooks to hold foods such as fruits or nuts and are meant to make a game out of getting to these treats. One of my particular favorites is an acrylic tube you load up with nuts in their shells, with holes to insert plain wooden pegs. To get the nuts out, the bird has to figure out how to pull the plugs. Look for these kinds of accessories in a good bird shop.

Food in its original form can be fun, too. Feed corn on the cob instead of in kernels, for example, as a way to keep your pet occupied -- and well-fed, too!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have been experiencing a problem lately with our neighbors' dog, a 2-year-old male golden retriever. Every time they open their door, the dog comes out, making a beeline for landscaped flower beds that we have worked very hard to maintain. He is constantly urinating on the shrubs, flowers and trees, and in general runs through the flower beds, tearing up the plants.

The neighbors are aware that their dog is doing this -- they watch him destroy our landscaping. We have tried the granules that you spread around, but they don't seem to have any effect on the dog. We once tried to approach the subject with them about the urine damaging our plants, and were told that "only a female dog's urine will cause damage to plants."

I was hoping you could suggest something we could do that might help eliminate his desire to visit our flower beds, before the situation gets any worse between neighbors. -- A.N, via the Internet

A: You don't have a dog problem. You have a neighbor problem. They are rude, inconsiderate and obnoxious, and they are a threat to those of us who work so hard to be responsible pet owners.

Urine is urine, and their male dog's urine is just as damaging to plants as any female dog's urine. Males tend to hurt upright plants, while females are harder on lawns, but urine is still not an ideal substance to be putting on plants.

Explain to your neighbor again that the dog is a problem. Most communities have leash laws, and your neighbors are in violation for allowing their dog to roam off their property -- remind them of that. Some people resort to more drastic measures: reporting the off-leash dog, suing for the cost of replacing lost plants in small claims court, and so on.

I believe very firmly that people who don't own pets have a right to dig in flower beds without cat poop in them, to sleep without listening to dogs barking, and to expect that people will pick up after their dogs while in parks and on walks. It's common courtesy, but it's also enlightened self-interest. When pets are a problem, laws get passed limiting the places people can keep them and take them.

Good luck with your neighbor. I have a feeling you're going to need it.

Q: I bought a baby kitten yesterday of the "exotic" breed. My kitten is right now only a week old, but I want to be prepared when he is going to be here, in another nine weeks. What can you tell me about this breed? -- A.M., Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

A: The exotic, also called the exotic shorthair, is basically a shorter-haired version of the Persian. Temperament is fairly similar as well -- the exotic is laid-back and affectionate.

The coat of the exotic is shorter than the Persian's, but there's still a lot of it, dense and plush, with a generous undercoat. The cat comes in a wide variety of colors and marking patterns.

The exotic is a good choice for a person who wants the large body, short face and mellow temperament of the Persian, but without having to put quite so much work into maintaining the Persian's long, silky coat.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If there's one parrot problem that has both bird owners and veterinarians alike pulling out their own hair in frustration, it would have to be feather-picking, a bird's willful destruction of his own plumage.

The first thing you need to know about this problem: Feather-picking is a symptom of something else that's wrong with your bird. The only hope you have of "curing" feather-picking is finding out and treating what's behind the behavior.

Feather-picking relates to a staggering variety of problems, and any one or any combination of the following can be at the bottom of your bird's plucking:

-- Health problems. Medical conditions behind feather-picking include allergies, parasitic infections, bacterial infections, abnormal growths (cysts) in the feather follicle, internal health problems, vitamin deficiencies and hormone-associated problems. And that's the short list.

-- Low humidity. Many birds come from extremely humid environments, and our houses can't hope to duplicate the conditions of a rain forest (we'd be miserable). The dry air of most houses can be a factor in feather-picking and can also set the stage for some secondary medical problems.

-- Boredom and pent-up energy. Birds are active and intelligent, and they don't handle well the strain of being forced to sit around in a cage all day. Without things to play with and stuff to destroy, and without being able to get out of the cage and exercise, birds may direct all their energy toward self-mutilation.

-- Psychological problems. Although birds need to have their wings trimmed for safety, a bad wing trim -- too short, with no allowance for an "easy landing" -- can upset a bird so badly that he starts tearing at himself. Obsessive-compulsive disorders can also trigger feather-picking.

-- Attention-seeking. You love how your bird looks. He starts tugging at feathers and you freak, imagining your beautiful bird with the broiler-chicken look. Every time he touches his feathers -- even for normal preening behavior -- you rush over. See how this works? "Aha!" thinks your bird. "All I have to do to get attention is pull a feather!"

What can be done with the feather-picker? First, forget the over-the-counter and home remedy "cures." They don't work, and some might even put your bird at risk.

See a veterinarian with experience in caring for birds as soon as the problem appears. Medical problems need to be addressed before looking at any behavioral strategies. Make sooner, rather than later, your emphasis. In general, the longer your bird has been picking, the greater the probability of an unresolvable pattern of behavior being set. Don't wait a few years before addressing a picking problem. When it starts, you need to start looking for a solution.

After your bird receives a clean bill of physical health, start making environmental adjustments to see whether you can ward off the picking. Prepare for the project to be a long one! Start a diary to record your changes and any effects they may have on your bird's behavior.

Start shaking things up, in small increments. A daily misting with a spray bottle and the addition of a room humidifier may be part of the solution. Also consider different toys, a smaller or larger cage, a new cage location, keeping a radio playing during the day, covering the cage to ensure your bird 12 solid hours of sleep, and more interaction and play with you as possibilities in the war against feather-picking.

Sadly, the definitive answer for feather-picking doesn't exist. The best you can do is be patient, work with an avian veterinarian, and be prepared to love your bird no matter what he looks like. In some cases, feather-picking is for life. In others, the problem is only occasional. Yes, some birds do become full-feathered again, but not every pet bird is bound for complete redress in the plumage department.

PETS ON THE WEB

Exercise and training are an important part of a high-quality life for your dog, and the two pair nicely in the world of dog sports. No matter the size or breed of your dog, you can find a sport you both will enjoy. Your dog will be happier and healthier, and the bond between you stronger for the time you spend together as a team. A good place to start researching dog sports is www.k9sports.com. The Web site has information on all manner of competition, and it has links to the best pages on not only sports, but also on teams and clubs. Are you and your dog couch potatoes? This site may inspire a change!

THE SCOOP

Indoor cats can be trained to enjoy an outdoor outing on harness and leash. Choose a harness designed for cats, not for dogs, in a figure-eight design. As collars do, harnesses come in many colors, with lightweight leashes to match.

Don't expect your cat to heel like a dog, however. Walking a cat really consists of encouraging your pet to explore, with you following. Never leave your cat tethered and unattended, which leaves him vulnerable to attack or to a terrifying time of hanging suspended from his harness should he try to get over a fence.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: What is the right age to take home a puppy? We are looking at a litter the breeder says will be weaned and ready to go at 4 weeks, which seems young to us. -- A.G., via e-mail

A: It isn't 4 weeks, that's for sure. Seven weeks is the youngest a puppy should leave his littermates. Weaning shouldn't be the trigger for placing the puppies, and the seller who thinks so is ill-informed.

Puppies pick up some very important lessons from their mom and their littermates in their fourth, fifth and sixth weeks of life, learning the complex social language that will not only help him get along with other dogs later, but will also help you to train your new pup.

Some breeders, especially those with small breeds, hold onto their puppies beyond seven weeks, primarily because they're so delicate. That's fine, as long as you've got a breeder who understands the importance of socializing -- safely introducing puppies to new sights, new sounds, and to people of all ages and both genders.

If you cannot convince the seller to keep the puppies together for an extra two weeks, my suggestion is to find another breeder, one well-versed in the developmental stages of dogs. Or go to a good shelter, where young puppies are placed with others of their age and socialized by savvy volunteers.

You want to get your relationship with your puppy started right, and that "right start" happens before you ever bring your new dog home. Choosing the right source for your pup is just as important as choosing the right breed or mix.

Q: One of the vets at the hospital we take our cats to has letters after his name that we don't understand. Most have DVM after their names, which we know to be Doctor of Veterinary Medicine. He has MRCVS after his. What does that mean? -- D.M., via e-mail

A: MRCVS stands for Member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and indicates a veterinarian who was accredited -- and probably trained -- in the United Kingdom.

Another interesting set of letters you see from time to time in place of the DVM is VMD. VMD stands for the Latin words for Veterinary Medical Doctor, and is a degree awarded by the University of Pennsylvania's veterinary college. When you see VMD after a veterinarian's name, you know without asking that the person is a University of Pennsylvania grad.

MRCVS, DVM and VMD are the basic certifications for veterinarians, but when you get into specialties, you get a whole new round of alphabet soup. Specialists can either stay in school longer to pick up the extra skills and information they need, or they can learn while in practice, and the titles they are awarded reflect the different paths they take.

Veterinarians who stayed in school longer will be certified as specialists by a governing board such as the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine and will use the phrase "Dipl., ACVIM" after the DVM, often putting the name of their specialty -- such as "cardiology" -- in parentheses at the very end. ("Dipl." is short for "Diplomate.)

Veterinarians in practice can test for specialty certification with the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners, which offers certification in feline and avian practice, among others. ABVP specialists use the phrase "Dipl., ABVP" after their DVMs, with their area of specialty in parentheses at the end as well, such as "Avian Practice."

The whole credential situation got a little crazy at the end of writing my upcoming book, "Birds for Dummies." My co-author, Dr. Brian Speer, received word that he had been accredited as an avian specialist in Europe, making him one of only a handful of veterinarians certified as avian specialists both in the United States and in Europe. This was a triumph for Brian, but a challenge for the folks trying to fit all his letters on the book cover. He is now Brian L. Speer, DVM, Dipl. ABVP (Avian Practice), ECAMS. The last stands for European College of Avian Medicine and Surgery. Whew!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600