Toy dogs have more than a few special things about them, most good, some not so good. The upside: They're adorable. They're portable. They're usually long-lived. On the downside, they seem to be exceptionally hard to house-train.

The problem, says small-dog expert Darlene Arden, is mostly human.

"People don't have the same expectations of a toy dog that they would of a golden retriever or Great Dane," says Arden, author of "The Irrepressible Toy Dog" (Howell Book House, $17.95). "Everyone looks at a toy dog as a perpetual infant.

"And because of that and the difference in the amount left behind, people just don't seem to care until they step in it at 2 in the morning, or until company's coming and the house smells bad."

This lack of consistency on the part of doting humans isn't the only problem, she says, pointing out that many small dogs are in trouble from the moment they're brought home as puppies. Many small dogs in the most popular breeds -- such as Yorkies, Maltese or toy poodles -- come from puppy mills or other large-scale breeders who simply don't take the time to lay the groundwork that makes house-training easier.

"These puppies grow up on a paper, eat on the paper, sleep on the paper, go on the paper," says Arden, who notes that puppies raised under such conditions learn to live in their own filth. Buying from a reputable breeder is essential, she says, not just for proper early training, but also for health screening and socialization.

Even poorly raised dogs can usually be trained, says Arden. You have to start by looking at things from a small dog's point of view -- and that can be very hard for people who think their dogs are little people.

For example, you have to make sure your dog can feel safe in the outdoor spot you've chosen for him. The act of elimination is one when a dog's guard is down, and when you weigh 10 pounds or less, it's important to feel you're not going to be attacked. "They feel vulnerable," says Arden. "You need to find that one very safe spot for them." And keep the grass short so the dog doesn't feel as if he's hacking through a jungle, she adds.

Cold weather can also make house-training more difficult. Little dogs lose heat rapidly and would rather use a nice corner of a warm house than venture outside. Sweaters, says Arden, are not silly for the little dog and can help with house-training.

Despite the special challenges the small dog presents, Arden says house-training is possible. Once your dog has that safe spot outside, you can teach him to use it with the aid of a schedule, praise, and a dedication to consistency.

"Feed on a schedule," says Arden, "and be aware of when the puppy has to go. You must take your dog out after he eats, after play, after any kind of stimulation.

"Take a very special treat and your happiest voice to the special spot. The moment the puppy's feet hit the ground, get excited." When the deed is done, says Arden, praise to the heavens and deliver the treat.

Limiting a dog's range in the house helps, too. "I'm a firm believer in crate-training -- as a tool, not a punishment," says Arden. "A crate keeps a dog out of trouble when you can't watch him."

Mistakes are part of the learning process and should never be punished. "If you see the dog starting to go in the house, pick him up and run him to that special spot," says Arden, and praise when the dog finishes up outside.

Your biggest ally in the struggle to get your dog house-trained is the typical toy dog temperament. They want to please you, says Arden. "Because they bond so tightly with their owners, toy dogs want to do what you want." You just have to help gently steer them in the right direction.

PETS ON THE WEB

Nobody likes dealing with dog poop, but some folks apparently find it a source of amusement. More such people exist than you'd imagine, and they're all busy making the Strange Foreign Objects in Dog Feces Web site (www.watchingyou.com/poop.html) both thoroughly disgusting and absolutely hilarious. This site was suggested by reader Jack Russell -- who takes care to point out he's not a small spotted terrier. (He needn't have bothered. I get very few letters from dogs of any kind -- owing, I'm guessing, to the shamefully poor design of computer keyboards when it comes to accommodating dog paws.)

Here's the, er, poop on this unusual site: Dogs eat many things that aren't digestible, and many of them show up you know where. It's hard to pick the most remarkable thing ever make the journey, but a Barbie doll has to be pretty close. Check it out, but not near mealtime.

THE SCOOP

Don't underestimate food as a way to keep your bird busy and amused. Check out food holders designed to make eating a challenge. These holders have skewers or nooks to hold foods such as fruits or nuts and are meant to make a game out of getting to these treats. One of my particular favorites is an acrylic tube you load up with nuts in their shells, with holes to insert plain wooden pegs. To get the nuts out, the bird has to figure out how to pull the plugs. Look for these kinds of accessories in a good bird shop.

Food in its original form can be fun, too. Feed corn on the cob instead of in kernels, for example, as a way to keep your pet occupied -- and well-fed, too!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have been experiencing a problem lately with our neighbors' dog, a 2-year-old male golden retriever. Every time they open their door, the dog comes out, making a beeline for landscaped flower beds that we have worked very hard to maintain. He is constantly urinating on the shrubs, flowers and trees, and in general runs through the flower beds, tearing up the plants.

The neighbors are aware that their dog is doing this -- they watch him destroy our landscaping. We have tried the granules that you spread around, but they don't seem to have any effect on the dog. We once tried to approach the subject with them about the urine damaging our plants, and were told that "only a female dog's urine will cause damage to plants."

I was hoping you could suggest something we could do that might help eliminate his desire to visit our flower beds, before the situation gets any worse between neighbors. -- A.N, via the Internet

A: You don't have a dog problem. You have a neighbor problem. They are rude, inconsiderate and obnoxious, and they are a threat to those of us who work so hard to be responsible pet owners.

Urine is urine, and their male dog's urine is just as damaging to plants as any female dog's urine. Males tend to hurt upright plants, while females are harder on lawns, but urine is still not an ideal substance to be putting on plants.

Explain to your neighbor again that the dog is a problem. Most communities have leash laws, and your neighbors are in violation for allowing their dog to roam off their property -- remind them of that. Some people resort to more drastic measures: reporting the off-leash dog, suing for the cost of replacing lost plants in small claims court, and so on.

I believe very firmly that people who don't own pets have a right to dig in flower beds without cat poop in them, to sleep without listening to dogs barking, and to expect that people will pick up after their dogs while in parks and on walks. It's common courtesy, but it's also enlightened self-interest. When pets are a problem, laws get passed limiting the places people can keep them and take them.

Good luck with your neighbor. I have a feeling you're going to need it.

Q: I bought a baby kitten yesterday of the "exotic" breed. My kitten is right now only a week old, but I want to be prepared when he is going to be here, in another nine weeks. What can you tell me about this breed? -- A.M., Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

A: The exotic, also called the exotic shorthair, is basically a shorter-haired version of the Persian. Temperament is fairly similar as well -- the exotic is laid-back and affectionate.

The coat of the exotic is shorter than the Persian's, but there's still a lot of it, dense and plush, with a generous undercoat. The cat comes in a wide variety of colors and marking patterns.

The exotic is a good choice for a person who wants the large body, short face and mellow temperament of the Persian, but without having to put quite so much work into maintaining the Persian's long, silky coat.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If there's one parrot problem that has both bird owners and veterinarians alike pulling out their own hair in frustration, it would have to be feather-picking, a bird's willful destruction of his own plumage.

The first thing you need to know about this problem: Feather-picking is a symptom of something else that's wrong with your bird. The only hope you have of "curing" feather-picking is finding out and treating what's behind the behavior.

Feather-picking relates to a staggering variety of problems, and any one or any combination of the following can be at the bottom of your bird's plucking:

-- Health problems. Medical conditions behind feather-picking include allergies, parasitic infections, bacterial infections, abnormal growths (cysts) in the feather follicle, internal health problems, vitamin deficiencies and hormone-associated problems. And that's the short list.

-- Low humidity. Many birds come from extremely humid environments, and our houses can't hope to duplicate the conditions of a rain forest (we'd be miserable). The dry air of most houses can be a factor in feather-picking and can also set the stage for some secondary medical problems.

-- Boredom and pent-up energy. Birds are active and intelligent, and they don't handle well the strain of being forced to sit around in a cage all day. Without things to play with and stuff to destroy, and without being able to get out of the cage and exercise, birds may direct all their energy toward self-mutilation.

-- Psychological problems. Although birds need to have their wings trimmed for safety, a bad wing trim -- too short, with no allowance for an "easy landing" -- can upset a bird so badly that he starts tearing at himself. Obsessive-compulsive disorders can also trigger feather-picking.

-- Attention-seeking. You love how your bird looks. He starts tugging at feathers and you freak, imagining your beautiful bird with the broiler-chicken look. Every time he touches his feathers -- even for normal preening behavior -- you rush over. See how this works? "Aha!" thinks your bird. "All I have to do to get attention is pull a feather!"

What can be done with the feather-picker? First, forget the over-the-counter and home remedy "cures." They don't work, and some might even put your bird at risk.

See a veterinarian with experience in caring for birds as soon as the problem appears. Medical problems need to be addressed before looking at any behavioral strategies. Make sooner, rather than later, your emphasis. In general, the longer your bird has been picking, the greater the probability of an unresolvable pattern of behavior being set. Don't wait a few years before addressing a picking problem. When it starts, you need to start looking for a solution.

After your bird receives a clean bill of physical health, start making environmental adjustments to see whether you can ward off the picking. Prepare for the project to be a long one! Start a diary to record your changes and any effects they may have on your bird's behavior.

Start shaking things up, in small increments. A daily misting with a spray bottle and the addition of a room humidifier may be part of the solution. Also consider different toys, a smaller or larger cage, a new cage location, keeping a radio playing during the day, covering the cage to ensure your bird 12 solid hours of sleep, and more interaction and play with you as possibilities in the war against feather-picking.

Sadly, the definitive answer for feather-picking doesn't exist. The best you can do is be patient, work with an avian veterinarian, and be prepared to love your bird no matter what he looks like. In some cases, feather-picking is for life. In others, the problem is only occasional. Yes, some birds do become full-feathered again, but not every pet bird is bound for complete redress in the plumage department.

PETS ON THE WEB

Exercise and training are an important part of a high-quality life for your dog, and the two pair nicely in the world of dog sports. No matter the size or breed of your dog, you can find a sport you both will enjoy. Your dog will be happier and healthier, and the bond between you stronger for the time you spend together as a team. A good place to start researching dog sports is www.k9sports.com. The Web site has information on all manner of competition, and it has links to the best pages on not only sports, but also on teams and clubs. Are you and your dog couch potatoes? This site may inspire a change!

THE SCOOP

Indoor cats can be trained to enjoy an outdoor outing on harness and leash. Choose a harness designed for cats, not for dogs, in a figure-eight design. As collars do, harnesses come in many colors, with lightweight leashes to match.

Don't expect your cat to heel like a dog, however. Walking a cat really consists of encouraging your pet to explore, with you following. Never leave your cat tethered and unattended, which leaves him vulnerable to attack or to a terrifying time of hanging suspended from his harness should he try to get over a fence.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: What is the right age to take home a puppy? We are looking at a litter the breeder says will be weaned and ready to go at 4 weeks, which seems young to us. -- A.G., via e-mail

A: It isn't 4 weeks, that's for sure. Seven weeks is the youngest a puppy should leave his littermates. Weaning shouldn't be the trigger for placing the puppies, and the seller who thinks so is ill-informed.

Puppies pick up some very important lessons from their mom and their littermates in their fourth, fifth and sixth weeks of life, learning the complex social language that will not only help him get along with other dogs later, but will also help you to train your new pup.

Some breeders, especially those with small breeds, hold onto their puppies beyond seven weeks, primarily because they're so delicate. That's fine, as long as you've got a breeder who understands the importance of socializing -- safely introducing puppies to new sights, new sounds, and to people of all ages and both genders.

If you cannot convince the seller to keep the puppies together for an extra two weeks, my suggestion is to find another breeder, one well-versed in the developmental stages of dogs. Or go to a good shelter, where young puppies are placed with others of their age and socialized by savvy volunteers.

You want to get your relationship with your puppy started right, and that "right start" happens before you ever bring your new dog home. Choosing the right source for your pup is just as important as choosing the right breed or mix.

Q: One of the vets at the hospital we take our cats to has letters after his name that we don't understand. Most have DVM after their names, which we know to be Doctor of Veterinary Medicine. He has MRCVS after his. What does that mean? -- D.M., via e-mail

A: MRCVS stands for Member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and indicates a veterinarian who was accredited -- and probably trained -- in the United Kingdom.

Another interesting set of letters you see from time to time in place of the DVM is VMD. VMD stands for the Latin words for Veterinary Medical Doctor, and is a degree awarded by the University of Pennsylvania's veterinary college. When you see VMD after a veterinarian's name, you know without asking that the person is a University of Pennsylvania grad.

MRCVS, DVM and VMD are the basic certifications for veterinarians, but when you get into specialties, you get a whole new round of alphabet soup. Specialists can either stay in school longer to pick up the extra skills and information they need, or they can learn while in practice, and the titles they are awarded reflect the different paths they take.

Veterinarians who stayed in school longer will be certified as specialists by a governing board such as the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine and will use the phrase "Dipl., ACVIM" after the DVM, often putting the name of their specialty -- such as "cardiology" -- in parentheses at the very end. ("Dipl." is short for "Diplomate.)

Veterinarians in practice can test for specialty certification with the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners, which offers certification in feline and avian practice, among others. ABVP specialists use the phrase "Dipl., ABVP" after their DVMs, with their area of specialty in parentheses at the end as well, such as "Avian Practice."

The whole credential situation got a little crazy at the end of writing my upcoming book, "Birds for Dummies." My co-author, Dr. Brian Speer, received word that he had been accredited as an avian specialist in Europe, making him one of only a handful of veterinarians certified as avian specialists both in the United States and in Europe. This was a triumph for Brian, but a challenge for the folks trying to fit all his letters on the book cover. He is now Brian L. Speer, DVM, Dipl. ABVP (Avian Practice), ECAMS. The last stands for European College of Avian Medicine and Surgery. Whew!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The independent and seemingly self-sufficient nature that many people admire in cats is really a facade masking an animal especially sensitive to illness and vulnerable to tragedy.

Cats need our help to live a healthy, long life, although they wouldn't deign to admit it to us. Some dangers are obvious, such as ignoring routine vaccinations if your cat gets around enough to risk exposure to disease. Other risks are not so obvious, and at least one gets me a flurry of letters and phone calls every time I write about it.

Keeping your cat inside is controversial, and for many it's a difficult decision to make. But consider the number of free-roaming cats killed by cars, as compared to the number of indoor cats who'll meet their end that way. The first number: unknown, but huge. The second is easy: zero.

A danger your cat isn't exposed to at all ceases to be a danger. If you want your cat to have the best chance at a long and healthy life, keep him in.

Even indoor kitties face danger, however, which is why you'll see some of their risks on the following list of "don'ts."

-- Don't make dangerous sleeping nooks available. Cats seek out warmth, as any cat-lover knows. They bask in the sun; they sleep on our chests and in our laps. One friend of mine had a cat who, when he got old, took to sleeping on the heating register (she got him a heated bed instead).

This heat-seeking behavior is dangerous when the warmth a cat seeks is under the hood of a car or in a dryer full of soft, warm clothes.

If your car isn't kept in a securely cat-proof area, such as a garage, get in the habit of pounding on the hood before starting the engine, especially on cold mornings, but even on cool summer ones. This action will skedaddle any cat -- yours or your neighbor's -- who cozied up to the warmth of the engine the night before.

The dryer is a hazard few people recognize before it's too late. And yet it's a more common danger than you think: In my circle of acquaintances alone, three people had cats who died in the dryer.

How does it happen? The cat crawls into the appliance to sleep on the warm clothes and isn't noticed when a family member adds a few more clothes or decides the ones already in there aren't dry enough. The door closes, the dryer turns on. Like a dog in a hot car, this is a horrible way to die.

Prevention is easy: Keep the dryer door closed, and make sure you check inside before turning it on.

-- Don't ignore early signs of illness. Cats can be very good at masking signs of disease until they're so sick their lives are at risk. When you notice a change in behavior, call your vet right away.

Probably the most common of these signs is a change in litter-box habits. I often get calls from people who are frustrated because their pet is suddenly using carpets or the bathtub for a litter box. While environmental changes -- a move, a new pet -- can trigger these problems, they're also caused by urinary tract problems, some of which can be fatal if not addressed.

A veterinary visit that catches a problem early is easier on both your bank account and your pet. So call.

-- Don't give your cat health products not meant for him. Aspirin and acetaminophen (Tylenol) are toxic to cats in amounts as small as one tablet. Flea-control preparations meant for dogs can likewise put a cat's life at risk, as can products that contain distilled coal tars, such as certain shampoos and disinfectants such as Lysol.

When in doubt about using medications, pesticides or disinfectants, talk to your veterinarian.

It's a short list, perhaps, but every caution is capable of saving countless lives. Look out for your cat. He may seem able to care for himself, but really, he's counting on your help.

PETS ON THE WEB

What do most iguanas do after coming home from the pet shop? The answer, tragically, is die, usually in a very short time. Few buyers leave pet stores with the equipment and information they need to properly house, feed and care for their pets. Some fans of the iguana have named Sept. 11 as National Iguana Awareness Day, with a Web site (www.niad.org) to mark the occasion. But you don't have to wait until then to learn about the proper care of iguanas. The NIAD site has the basics of care covered, along with pages on misinformation and horror stories (some with happy endings) of iguanas who didn't get the care they needed.

THE SCOOP

One of best things to happen in the dog world in recent years is the growth of the AKC Canine Good Citizen program, which gives formal recognition to dogs of all ages, sizes and backgrounds who prove themselves to be ambassadors of goodwill to those among us who wish dogs would stay home or simply go away.

The certification program was designed to test the dog with everyday challenges a well-mannered dog should handle in good grace. In order to be granted the Canine Good Citizen (CGC) title, the dog must accept the attention and handling of a friendly stranger, sit politely for petting, walk on a loose leash, walk through a crowd, demonstrate an understanding of the commands "sit," "down," "stay" and "come," and behave politely around other dogs, distractions, and when separated briefly from his owner.

Some owners have used this program to prepare their dogs for therapy work in hospitals and nursing homes, and the program is one more tool in helping to keep lodgings, parks and other areas open to canine travelers.

For a free information kit on the Canine Good Citizen program, write to The American Kennel Club, Attention: CGC, 5580 Centerview Drive, Suite 200, Raleigh, NC 27606. Or call (919) 233-9780, or send e-mail to info(at)akc.org.

Q: We just adopted a dog from the pound, and she has started coughing and sneezing. It seems that it is also affecting our other dog. Could this be caused by kennel cough? If so, what is kennel cough and what do we do about it? --C.D., via e-mail

Q: We boarded our dog recently, and he came back with "kennel cough." Is it contagious? My son has asthma and I'm worried. - N.M., via e-mail.

A: Boarding kennels take some heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that's as contagious as sniffles in a day-care center. In fact, some kennel operators even find the name a little pejorative, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, canine infectious tracheobronchitis, or even bordetella, after its most common causative agent.

And maybe that's fair, because dogs can pick up kennel cough any place they come into contact with a dog who has it -- and that means anywhere. Parks, shelters, boarding kennels, dog shows, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society -- these are all possibilities for infection.

Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. For most dogs, the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks. Others, especially yappy dogs who keep the airways irritated, may develop an infection that requires antibiotics. See your veterinarian for advice. He may recommend nothing more than a cough suppressant and rest.

While it's not completely effective against the disease, a vaccine is available. A boarding kennel should demand proof of it. The rub: It requires two doses a couple of weeks apart, which means you need to call your veterinarian at least three weeks before a kennel stay or trip to a dog-dense area.

Kennel cough cannot be transmitted to humans.

Q: My cockatiel has just laid a pair of eggs. How can I best care for them? -- B.F., via e-mail

A: Unless your bird has a mate, the eggs are infertile and will not hatch. The best thing is to let your bird finish her laying, and then take the eggs away and discard them.

Some birds won't stop laying, and if yours is one of them, see your veterinarian for hormonal help for her. Endless egg-laying can seriously weaken a bird.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600