If there's one parrot problem that has both bird owners and veterinarians alike pulling out their own hair in frustration, it would have to be feather-picking, a bird's willful destruction of his own plumage.

The first thing you need to know about this problem: Feather-picking is a symptom of something else that's wrong with your bird. The only hope you have of "curing" feather-picking is finding out and treating what's behind the behavior.

Feather-picking relates to a staggering variety of problems, and any one or any combination of the following can be at the bottom of your bird's plucking:

-- Health problems. Medical conditions behind feather-picking include allergies, parasitic infections, bacterial infections, abnormal growths (cysts) in the feather follicle, internal health problems, vitamin deficiencies and hormone-associated problems. And that's the short list.

-- Low humidity. Many birds come from extremely humid environments, and our houses can't hope to duplicate the conditions of a rain forest (we'd be miserable). The dry air of most houses can be a factor in feather-picking and can also set the stage for some secondary medical problems.

-- Boredom and pent-up energy. Birds are active and intelligent, and they don't handle well the strain of being forced to sit around in a cage all day. Without things to play with and stuff to destroy, and without being able to get out of the cage and exercise, birds may direct all their energy toward self-mutilation.

-- Psychological problems. Although birds need to have their wings trimmed for safety, a bad wing trim -- too short, with no allowance for an "easy landing" -- can upset a bird so badly that he starts tearing at himself. Obsessive-compulsive disorders can also trigger feather-picking.

-- Attention-seeking. You love how your bird looks. He starts tugging at feathers and you freak, imagining your beautiful bird with the broiler-chicken look. Every time he touches his feathers -- even for normal preening behavior -- you rush over. See how this works? "Aha!" thinks your bird. "All I have to do to get attention is pull a feather!"

What can be done with the feather-picker? First, forget the over-the-counter and home remedy "cures." They don't work, and some might even put your bird at risk.

See a veterinarian with experience in caring for birds as soon as the problem appears. Medical problems need to be addressed before looking at any behavioral strategies. Make sooner, rather than later, your emphasis. In general, the longer your bird has been picking, the greater the probability of an unresolvable pattern of behavior being set. Don't wait a few years before addressing a picking problem. When it starts, you need to start looking for a solution.

After your bird receives a clean bill of physical health, start making environmental adjustments to see whether you can ward off the picking. Prepare for the project to be a long one! Start a diary to record your changes and any effects they may have on your bird's behavior.

Start shaking things up, in small increments. A daily misting with a spray bottle and the addition of a room humidifier may be part of the solution. Also consider different toys, a smaller or larger cage, a new cage location, keeping a radio playing during the day, covering the cage to ensure your bird 12 solid hours of sleep, and more interaction and play with you as possibilities in the war against feather-picking.

Sadly, the definitive answer for feather-picking doesn't exist. The best you can do is be patient, work with an avian veterinarian, and be prepared to love your bird no matter what he looks like. In some cases, feather-picking is for life. In others, the problem is only occasional. Yes, some birds do become full-feathered again, but not every pet bird is bound for complete redress in the plumage department.

PETS ON THE WEB

Exercise and training are an important part of a high-quality life for your dog, and the two pair nicely in the world of dog sports. No matter the size or breed of your dog, you can find a sport you both will enjoy. Your dog will be happier and healthier, and the bond between you stronger for the time you spend together as a team. A good place to start researching dog sports is www.k9sports.com. The Web site has information on all manner of competition, and it has links to the best pages on not only sports, but also on teams and clubs. Are you and your dog couch potatoes? This site may inspire a change!

THE SCOOP

Indoor cats can be trained to enjoy an outdoor outing on harness and leash. Choose a harness designed for cats, not for dogs, in a figure-eight design. As collars do, harnesses come in many colors, with lightweight leashes to match.

Don't expect your cat to heel like a dog, however. Walking a cat really consists of encouraging your pet to explore, with you following. Never leave your cat tethered and unattended, which leaves him vulnerable to attack or to a terrifying time of hanging suspended from his harness should he try to get over a fence.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: What is the right age to take home a puppy? We are looking at a litter the breeder says will be weaned and ready to go at 4 weeks, which seems young to us. -- A.G., via e-mail

A: It isn't 4 weeks, that's for sure. Seven weeks is the youngest a puppy should leave his littermates. Weaning shouldn't be the trigger for placing the puppies, and the seller who thinks so is ill-informed.

Puppies pick up some very important lessons from their mom and their littermates in their fourth, fifth and sixth weeks of life, learning the complex social language that will not only help him get along with other dogs later, but will also help you to train your new pup.

Some breeders, especially those with small breeds, hold onto their puppies beyond seven weeks, primarily because they're so delicate. That's fine, as long as you've got a breeder who understands the importance of socializing -- safely introducing puppies to new sights, new sounds, and to people of all ages and both genders.

If you cannot convince the seller to keep the puppies together for an extra two weeks, my suggestion is to find another breeder, one well-versed in the developmental stages of dogs. Or go to a good shelter, where young puppies are placed with others of their age and socialized by savvy volunteers.

You want to get your relationship with your puppy started right, and that "right start" happens before you ever bring your new dog home. Choosing the right source for your pup is just as important as choosing the right breed or mix.

Q: One of the vets at the hospital we take our cats to has letters after his name that we don't understand. Most have DVM after their names, which we know to be Doctor of Veterinary Medicine. He has MRCVS after his. What does that mean? -- D.M., via e-mail

A: MRCVS stands for Member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and indicates a veterinarian who was accredited -- and probably trained -- in the United Kingdom.

Another interesting set of letters you see from time to time in place of the DVM is VMD. VMD stands for the Latin words for Veterinary Medical Doctor, and is a degree awarded by the University of Pennsylvania's veterinary college. When you see VMD after a veterinarian's name, you know without asking that the person is a University of Pennsylvania grad.

MRCVS, DVM and VMD are the basic certifications for veterinarians, but when you get into specialties, you get a whole new round of alphabet soup. Specialists can either stay in school longer to pick up the extra skills and information they need, or they can learn while in practice, and the titles they are awarded reflect the different paths they take.

Veterinarians who stayed in school longer will be certified as specialists by a governing board such as the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine and will use the phrase "Dipl., ACVIM" after the DVM, often putting the name of their specialty -- such as "cardiology" -- in parentheses at the very end. ("Dipl." is short for "Diplomate.)

Veterinarians in practice can test for specialty certification with the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners, which offers certification in feline and avian practice, among others. ABVP specialists use the phrase "Dipl., ABVP" after their DVMs, with their area of specialty in parentheses at the end as well, such as "Avian Practice."

The whole credential situation got a little crazy at the end of writing my upcoming book, "Birds for Dummies." My co-author, Dr. Brian Speer, received word that he had been accredited as an avian specialist in Europe, making him one of only a handful of veterinarians certified as avian specialists both in the United States and in Europe. This was a triumph for Brian, but a challenge for the folks trying to fit all his letters on the book cover. He is now Brian L. Speer, DVM, Dipl. ABVP (Avian Practice), ECAMS. The last stands for European College of Avian Medicine and Surgery. Whew!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The independent and seemingly self-sufficient nature that many people admire in cats is really a facade masking an animal especially sensitive to illness and vulnerable to tragedy.

Cats need our help to live a healthy, long life, although they wouldn't deign to admit it to us. Some dangers are obvious, such as ignoring routine vaccinations if your cat gets around enough to risk exposure to disease. Other risks are not so obvious, and at least one gets me a flurry of letters and phone calls every time I write about it.

Keeping your cat inside is controversial, and for many it's a difficult decision to make. But consider the number of free-roaming cats killed by cars, as compared to the number of indoor cats who'll meet their end that way. The first number: unknown, but huge. The second is easy: zero.

A danger your cat isn't exposed to at all ceases to be a danger. If you want your cat to have the best chance at a long and healthy life, keep him in.

Even indoor kitties face danger, however, which is why you'll see some of their risks on the following list of "don'ts."

-- Don't make dangerous sleeping nooks available. Cats seek out warmth, as any cat-lover knows. They bask in the sun; they sleep on our chests and in our laps. One friend of mine had a cat who, when he got old, took to sleeping on the heating register (she got him a heated bed instead).

This heat-seeking behavior is dangerous when the warmth a cat seeks is under the hood of a car or in a dryer full of soft, warm clothes.

If your car isn't kept in a securely cat-proof area, such as a garage, get in the habit of pounding on the hood before starting the engine, especially on cold mornings, but even on cool summer ones. This action will skedaddle any cat -- yours or your neighbor's -- who cozied up to the warmth of the engine the night before.

The dryer is a hazard few people recognize before it's too late. And yet it's a more common danger than you think: In my circle of acquaintances alone, three people had cats who died in the dryer.

How does it happen? The cat crawls into the appliance to sleep on the warm clothes and isn't noticed when a family member adds a few more clothes or decides the ones already in there aren't dry enough. The door closes, the dryer turns on. Like a dog in a hot car, this is a horrible way to die.

Prevention is easy: Keep the dryer door closed, and make sure you check inside before turning it on.

-- Don't ignore early signs of illness. Cats can be very good at masking signs of disease until they're so sick their lives are at risk. When you notice a change in behavior, call your vet right away.

Probably the most common of these signs is a change in litter-box habits. I often get calls from people who are frustrated because their pet is suddenly using carpets or the bathtub for a litter box. While environmental changes -- a move, a new pet -- can trigger these problems, they're also caused by urinary tract problems, some of which can be fatal if not addressed.

A veterinary visit that catches a problem early is easier on both your bank account and your pet. So call.

-- Don't give your cat health products not meant for him. Aspirin and acetaminophen (Tylenol) are toxic to cats in amounts as small as one tablet. Flea-control preparations meant for dogs can likewise put a cat's life at risk, as can products that contain distilled coal tars, such as certain shampoos and disinfectants such as Lysol.

When in doubt about using medications, pesticides or disinfectants, talk to your veterinarian.

It's a short list, perhaps, but every caution is capable of saving countless lives. Look out for your cat. He may seem able to care for himself, but really, he's counting on your help.

PETS ON THE WEB

What do most iguanas do after coming home from the pet shop? The answer, tragically, is die, usually in a very short time. Few buyers leave pet stores with the equipment and information they need to properly house, feed and care for their pets. Some fans of the iguana have named Sept. 11 as National Iguana Awareness Day, with a Web site (www.niad.org) to mark the occasion. But you don't have to wait until then to learn about the proper care of iguanas. The NIAD site has the basics of care covered, along with pages on misinformation and horror stories (some with happy endings) of iguanas who didn't get the care they needed.

THE SCOOP

One of best things to happen in the dog world in recent years is the growth of the AKC Canine Good Citizen program, which gives formal recognition to dogs of all ages, sizes and backgrounds who prove themselves to be ambassadors of goodwill to those among us who wish dogs would stay home or simply go away.

The certification program was designed to test the dog with everyday challenges a well-mannered dog should handle in good grace. In order to be granted the Canine Good Citizen (CGC) title, the dog must accept the attention and handling of a friendly stranger, sit politely for petting, walk on a loose leash, walk through a crowd, demonstrate an understanding of the commands "sit," "down," "stay" and "come," and behave politely around other dogs, distractions, and when separated briefly from his owner.

Some owners have used this program to prepare their dogs for therapy work in hospitals and nursing homes, and the program is one more tool in helping to keep lodgings, parks and other areas open to canine travelers.

For a free information kit on the Canine Good Citizen program, write to The American Kennel Club, Attention: CGC, 5580 Centerview Drive, Suite 200, Raleigh, NC 27606. Or call (919) 233-9780, or send e-mail to info(at)akc.org.

Q: We just adopted a dog from the pound, and she has started coughing and sneezing. It seems that it is also affecting our other dog. Could this be caused by kennel cough? If so, what is kennel cough and what do we do about it? --C.D., via e-mail

Q: We boarded our dog recently, and he came back with "kennel cough." Is it contagious? My son has asthma and I'm worried. - N.M., via e-mail.

A: Boarding kennels take some heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that's as contagious as sniffles in a day-care center. In fact, some kennel operators even find the name a little pejorative, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, canine infectious tracheobronchitis, or even bordetella, after its most common causative agent.

And maybe that's fair, because dogs can pick up kennel cough any place they come into contact with a dog who has it -- and that means anywhere. Parks, shelters, boarding kennels, dog shows, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society -- these are all possibilities for infection.

Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. For most dogs, the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks. Others, especially yappy dogs who keep the airways irritated, may develop an infection that requires antibiotics. See your veterinarian for advice. He may recommend nothing more than a cough suppressant and rest.

While it's not completely effective against the disease, a vaccine is available. A boarding kennel should demand proof of it. The rub: It requires two doses a couple of weeks apart, which means you need to call your veterinarian at least three weeks before a kennel stay or trip to a dog-dense area.

Kennel cough cannot be transmitted to humans.

Q: My cockatiel has just laid a pair of eggs. How can I best care for them? -- B.F., via e-mail

A: Unless your bird has a mate, the eggs are infertile and will not hatch. The best thing is to let your bird finish her laying, and then take the eggs away and discard them.

Some birds won't stop laying, and if yours is one of them, see your veterinarian for hormonal help for her. Endless egg-laying can seriously weaken a bird.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The quality of pet health books just took a grand leap upward with the publication of two pairs of references that coincidentally manage to complement each other beautifully.

"The Purina Encyclopedia of Cat Care" (Ballantine hardcover; $25) was the first of the foursome to appear, coming out to good reviews last year. The companion book, "The Purina Encyclopedia of Dog Care" (same publisher, same

price) is just out, and even better than its companion volume. Both are written by Amy D. Shojai, a former veterinary technician who now has a handful of well-respected pet books to her credit.

Despite the commercial link to a pet-food maker, the books are thankfully free of marketing pitches, handling even the area of nutrition in an objective, evenhanded way. Shojai uses the alphabet to organize her material, with plenty of cross-referencing and a detailed index to make finding information a breeze.

The Purina pair are packed with more information than you'd think would fit even in nearly 450 pages, with solid entries on illness, behavior, breed characteristics, and even the day-to-day challenges of living with a pet, such as proper supplies and traveling with pets. The references end with quick guides to symptoms of illness and a decent list of additional resources -- various animal-related companies and groups.

My only quibble: The type on some of the charts is awfully small, but then maybe it won't bother someone who hasn't just been told she needs bifocals!

Another experienced writer on pet topics, Elizabeth Randolph, has enlisted the help of a handful of top veterinarians in producing her just-published pair of health books, "The Veterinarians' Guide to Your Dog's Symptoms" and "The Veterinarians' Guide to Your Cat's Symptoms" (both from Villard in softcover; $17.95).

The veterinarians' guide books work from the symptoms backward, with outstanding tables and illustrations to help identify what may be bothering your pet. The text is clear and likewise easy to follow, with excellent advice on choosing and working with a veterinarian, what's "normal" for a healthy dog or cat, and even help with behavior problems. Another strength: The sections in both books on emergencies -- what is, what isn't, and what to do. These books are also well-indexed, and feature a much-needed glossary of veterinary terms.

The two sets of books work perfectly together, with the veterinarians' guides more focused on symptoms and the Purina encyclopedias dedicated to lengthier explanations of the diseases behind the signs of illness. Along with one other new book, "The Pill Book Guide to Medication for Your Dog or Cat" (Bantam paperback; $6.95), you can create a reference library you'll be thumbing through for years to come.

PETS ON THE WEB

Theodore Leopold Pusskin is one cool cat, an Abyssinian living in Ottawa, Canada, who has time for plenty of important napping and his own Web site, too. Theo's Abyssinian Cat Club (www.xander.com/jana/cats/abby_club/index-text.html) is a lighthearted site with plenty of nooks and crannies to explore. Fortunately for the personable puss, his human companion is a Web designer, so the page is well-done and easy to navigate. There are lots of links to the home pages of other cats, including one of his Siamese friend Tasha. Her site is worth a side trip, if for no other reason than the clever slide show of her "on safari."

THE SCOOP

Pet-food bags have been the same forever. The string you cut your finger on pulling to open (if it doesn't break), the top that refuses to fold down to keep food fresh -- it seems as though someone ought to be able to invent something that works better. Keep an eye out, for just such a product will be turning up in the stores soon. A new pet-food package is being marketed by the Cryovac company of Duncan, S.C., with some definite improvements over what's being used now. The heavy-gauge plastic keeps food fresh and bugs and other pests out. It's easier to open and can be tightly resealed. It's about time!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My little Maltese was sprayed by a skunk. I have washed him several times and cannot get the smell off him. Is there any secret you can share with me to get us out of our stinky situation? -- C.S, Artesia, Calif.

A: Indeed there is! Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide solution (available at any drugstore), one-quarter cup of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap. Mix and apply to the dog, let sit a few minutes, and then rinse thoroughly with plain tap water.

The story behind this concoction is fascinating. According to the Chicago Tribune, the inventor is a Lisle, Ill., chemist by the name of Paul Krebaum. His discovery will never make him rich, however, because of a quirk of the formula: It cannot be bottled. The chemical reaction produced when the ingredients are introduced is short-term, and will burst any closed container (which is why the remedy must be mixed fresh, used promptly and disposed of after.)

Krebaum may never become rich from his invention, but he ought to at least become famous. The word is that the mix really works.

Q: In a recent column you discussed ways to keep loose, vicious dogs away while we walk our leashed pooches. May I add a suggestion?

I run almost daily with my two beautiful dogs -- Kelly, a male 15-month-old black Labrador, and Henna, a 2-year-old female weimaraner. I run not only with a leash and collapsible water dish in hand, but also with pepper spray for an attacking dog. I haven't had to use it yet, but would not hesitate to do so if necessary.

I'm sure the other owner, if he or she were around, wouldn't like it, but too bad. Beats the heck out of a huge vet bill for stitches, etc.-- P.G., Sacramento, Calif.

A: Yours was not the only note I received on pepper spray, and after a recent experience, I'm carrying it, too. My big retriever, Benjamin, was jumped at our park by a dog who came charging with hackles up and itching for a fight. Bennie is so sweet-natured he was surprised to be attacked and just stood there, as if in shock. No harm to either dog, thank heavens, but lots of angry words between owners, especially after the person finally collared his dog and admitted the animal was too aggressive to be let off-leash!

I'm not in favor of stitches, either, and I certainly intend to use the spray if I'm faced with an attacking dog again.

Q:. Gina, you made a mistake! You said that chows were the only dogs with blue-black (purple) tongues, but Chinese shar-peis have them, too. I hope you will correct your error. Our shar-pei club is waiting. -- P.A, via the Internet

A: You're absolutely right. The Chinese shar-pei is also a member of the Purple Tongue Club. The odd thing about my oversight is that I was smooched by a shar-pei at a dog event not even a couple weeks before I put my mistake in print. Mea culpa.

Q: I am 13 years old and going to get a Lab soon. It actually is a family decision, but I am going to be the one to train and walk her every day. I am fully prepared for all the work she is going to require. My question: I have heard that Labs need to have a choke chain used to control them. When does this apply? -- J.L., via e-mail

A: Congratulations! The Labrador is the No. 1 dog in the country with good reason. They're great family dogs, smart, loving and highly trainable.

As for the choke collar, forget about it! No puppy should have one, and if you train your pup well, you may never need one at all. I have two large retrievers and haven't had anything but ordinary flat collars on them. My Sheltie, Andy, hasn't had a choke collar on in more than 11 years. And they go with me everywhere they're allowed (and a few places maybe they're not).

A choke collar is a training tool, one of many available today, and you cannot generalize by saying "this breed" or "that breed" has to have one. What your dog will definitely need is the training you'll be doing, and that starts with puppy classes at about 12 weeks of age. A well-trained dog will walk politely on leash no matter what collar you use. When you take your puppy to see the veterinarian, ask about training classes in your area.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600