Reading and cats go together as naturally as vanilla ice cream and chocolate syrup, or corn dogs and county fairs. What could be more perfect than reading an engaging book with a purring cat on your lap? A cat understands and appreciates the need for quiet contemplation and enjoys just being close. No throw-the-ball, no can-Heather-come-over-and-play, no honey-I-can't-find-clean-socks. Nothing except peace, quiet and warm companionship.

It's a pleasure known even to people in a few libraries -- those with cats, of course.

Documentary-maker Gary Roma understands the nature of cats -- he has two of his own -- and thinks there's something special about libraries. So he set out to create a work on library cats, starting with a list and ending up with a clever documentary called "Puss in Books," celebrating those fine felines who serve in the stacks.

"I came across a listing for the Library Cat Association," he said, in explaining his choice of subject. "I decided to take a road trip, working by myself, doing the videotaping.

"I found that librarians were eager and happy to talk about the cats. It was wonderful to hear the stories."

Roma found more than 100 library cats, although only a fraction of them made it into his documentary. Those who did make a strong case for an increase in their numbers. Roma's favorite is a handsome marmalade tabby in the Spencer, Iowa, public library with the wonderful name of Dewey Readmore Books.

"Dewey is a warm, loving cat," said Roma, which may explain why the fluffy cat gets more than his fair share of air time, along with a pair of cats named Baker and Taylor who are probably the most famous of all library cats.

Although both are gone now, Baker and Taylor were the pride of their Reno, Nev., library. Named after a book distributor, the pair were immortalized on posters, tote bags and other merchandise. They had a fan club and a song, and the library saw a constant parade of people who dropped by from quite a distance just to see the cats.

In "Puss in Books," librarian Jan Louch, who postponed her retirement until both the cats had passed on, says many patrons asked if they could check out one of the cats. "He's for reference only," she'd explain.

While Baker and Taylor were planned acquisitions, other cats were more of a surprise, as cats often are. Dewey, the Iowa cat, was found as a tiny kitten under a load of books in the return chute. His title now: director of marketing and public relations. Kinky, a Wisconsin tuxedo cat, is another library cat with a formal title: librarian in charge of rodent control. His colleagues say that since they haven't seen any mice he must be doing a good job.

Not everyone is in favor of library cats, though, and Roma talks to some who aren't, including a woman who's afraid of cats. Allergies are a problem, too. Librarians say compromises can sometimes be worked out, such as putting the cat in the back when patrons with cat problems visit. Surprisingly, one of the biggest challenges to keeping cats in libraries isn't people at all, says Roma. It's motion-detector security systems.

Despite the problems, Roma thinks there will always be library cats. The Library Cat Association will be pushing for them, that's for sure.

"Considering that there are 15,000 public libraries (and only about 100 with cats), there seems to be much work to be done," Phyllis Lahti, the LCA's director, says on the documentary.

Roma's documentary is available on videotape for $19.95, plus $3 shipping and handling from Iron Frog Productions, 9 Townsend St., Waltham, MA 02453-6026. For more information on the Library Cat Association, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to P.O. Box 274, Moorhead, MN 56560. Subscriptions to The Library Cat Newsletter are $6 per year, with a sample issue available for $1.

PETS ON THE WEB

Is there a library cat in your town? Gary Roma's Web site (www.ironfrog.com) is arguably the best resource around for tracking down feline library dwellers. While he's a little generous in his definition of "library cat" -- six sculptures, including Patience and Fortitude, the New York Public Library lions, make the cut -- most of the cats listed are the genuine article, felis catus (domestic cat). The page allows you to click on a state and come up with a list of library cats, with related Web sites, e-mail addresses and pictures, if available. You can also read excepts of his library cat interviews, see cartoons from the video and read the words to the song "Baker and Taylor."

THE SCOOP

A dog-show trick for keeping dogs cool while walking on warm days is to drape a towel over them and keep the towel dripping wet by adding water at regular intervals. Some folks have even gone so far as to make terry-cloth jackets, which you can sometimes find for sale at dog shows. The jackets have a smarter look and better fit, but a towel works just fine. For the stay-at-home dog on a hot day, make sure plenty of water and shade is available. Better yet, keep your dog inside with the air conditioning. To keep water cool, freeze water in margarine containers and add the ice blocks to fresh dishes of water every morning. The melting ice will keep the water perfectly chilled.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a question about my dog Pepper, a Dalmatian. I walk him daily on a path near our home. He is a real food scavenger and often tries to eat things he sees on the path that have been dropped. He has been obedience-trained, but he didn't catch on to the "leave it" command and he'll obey when he feels like it.

Also, he wants to mark every bush we pass, so I can't seem to get a pace going for exercise. Any suggestions? S.W., via e-mail

A: The "leave it" command is exactly what you need your dog to know for handling both problems. If he didn't catch on, you need to work on his understanding of this command.

Teach "leave it" with a physical correction. With your dog in a sit-stay and your hand in a fist, flat surface up, offer your dog a biscuit with the other. As he reaches for the biscuit, say "leave it," and bop him under the chin, enough to close his jaw but not lift him off his feet. Offer the biscuit again, repeating the "leave it" command, and if he hesitates or turns away, praise him. Few dogs need this demonstrated more than twice.

Once your dog understands, keep practicing and praising. With my toy-crazy retrievers, I show them a toy they'd love to wrap their chops around, telling them to "leave it." When they avert their noses and eyes for a few seconds, I praise them, then tell them "OK" and let them take the toy with more praise. I practice this with treats, too. They're asked to sit, and then every so often I practice "leave it" before giving them the "OK" and allowing them their goodie.

On leash, "leave it" works to avoid marking because a dog always sniffs, however briefly, before the leg-lift. Don't stop for leg-lifters. Use the "leave it" command, correct your dog for slowing down the way your obedience instructor showed you and keep walking. If you're consistent, he'll soon understand the rules and quit trying to hit every bush on the way.

Q: Why do cats wag their tails? -- L.K., via e-mail

A: You can tell a great deal of what your cat's thinking by watching his tail. Tail up and flipped forward over the back is the cat's way of saying, "Hi, how are you? Nice to see you. Isn't it time to get my dinner?" -- a relaxed and friendly greeting of affection and trust. A cat who's uncertain puffs out his tail, holds it low (perhaps even tucked under), and moves it from side to side. If a cat is stalking, his tail is held low and stiff, except for twitching at the end as if the force required to hold its body still is too much for the cat, who must release nervous energy from the end of his tail. (This "hunting twitch" may also be seen in play.)

The tail is one of the best physical indications of a cat's impending aggression. A cat who's becoming agitated whips his tail from side to side; often the tail is puffed out as well. A tail wag is not the friendly gesture in cats that it is in dogs, for sure. Give this kitty some space and time to cool down.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

These days I'm hearing from a lot of people wanting to know about feline pregnancy. How long does it last? (On average, 66 days.) Do I need to help my pregnant cat with delivery? (Yes, usually by leaving her alone.) How do I know if she's close to delivering? (Watch for enlarged nipples and the secretion of a tiny amount of milk.)

What strikes me about these letters is that too many cats are having babies, youngsters who'll be vying against other kittens later for homes that aren't nearly numerous enough. The cats these people are writing about are having kittens who are in many cases destined to never see their first birthday.

The answer? Spaying and neutering, of course.

According to a 1995 survey by the American Animal Association Hospital, nearly 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. What do these people know that you don't? Here are a few facts to consider:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet, because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male - which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Although the procedures are among the most common, a lot of people don't understand what's involved. Spaying is the removal of the female's entire reproductive system: The uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out through an incision in the abdomen. Some veterinarians use stitches that have to be removed in about 10 days' time, while others use those that are absorbed into the body. Recovery is fast, taking just a few days, during which you should limit your cat's activities -- no jumping or boisterous play.

In neutering, the cat's testicles are removed through incisions in the scrotum, the pouch holding the testicles. These incisions are generally left unstitched in this relatively minor procedure. Post-operative care normally involves keeping the incisions clean and dry. Some veterinarians recommend keeping the cat inside (if he is not already an indoor pet) and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually happens within three to five days.

Most of the people who write me about pregnant cats are dealing with "oops" litters, the result of not getting their cat to the veterinarian in time. I sure hope they'll be calling to schedule an appointment for neutering as soon as those babies are weaned.

If your cat is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. The arguments are solid in favor of altering your pet, and you need go no farther than your local shelter to find them.

PETS ON THE WEB

Medical science in recent years has come around to agreeing that pets are good for people. The world-renowned Mayo Clinic has even devoted a section of its Web site to a collection of articles (www.mayohealth.org/mayo/9906/htm.pets.htm) on people and pets. The articles include references to studies showing the positive effects of pets, including a 1995 one from the Journal of Cardiology that found that dog ownership increased the likelihood of surviving a heart attack. Another study reveals that older people who own a dog or a cat are likely to be active and less likely to be depressed than people without an animal companion. The site offers some commonsense advice on living healthily with pets. Nothing groundbreaking here, but it's good to see an organization like the Mayo Clinic confirming what pet lovers have known all along.

THE SCOOP

The "step-up" command is basic to having a well-behaved pet parrot (a category that includes budgies and cockatiels, as well as their larger relatives such as macaws and cockatoos). Like dogs, birds are social climbers and will take advantage of the human who isn't perceived as leadership material. The bird who understand and reacts properly to "step up" is one who also knows you're in charge. Climbing comes naturally to parrots, and if you've got a well-socialized baby, you should be able to teach him pretty easily. Start with your bird on your hand, or on a T-stand perch. Ask your bird to "step up" and press your finger (for small birds) or hand (for large birds) against his belly, just above the legs. Offer praise and a favorite treat (such as a seed) for complying. A well-trained bird will automatically raise his foot to the command "step up," and that takes practice. Ask your bird to "step up" at least a dozen times a day -- to leave his cage, to be petted, to move from room to room -- and you'll be on your way to having a well-mannered pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Would you kindly insert your annual warning about animals being left in cars? I have already seen one small dog in a large car -- admittedly the car was in the shade, but I still feel strongly about this. I must admit I tore off a piece of scrap paper and left a very terse note under the owner's windshield wiper. -- P.L., via e-mail

A: It is indeed remarkable that this warning needs repeating, but every year dogs die in hot cars. Clearly, not everyone is getting the message.

A car functions like a greenhouse, and heat can build up to lethal levels in minutes, even on a pleasant day in the 70s or low 80s. Even with the windows rolled down, a dog can show signs of heat stress -- heavy panting, glazed eyes, rapid pulse, dizziness or vomiting, or a deep red or purple tongue -- in the time it takes to carry a carton of ice cream through the "10 items or less" line. Brain damage and death can follow within minutes. Shade is no guarantee of safety; cars left in the shade can be in the sun in as little as an hour.

Many animal-welfare groups have preprinted warning fliers ready to slip under a windshield wiper. You might want to pick up a few to keep in your glove box, along with the number to call if you see a dog who's in trouble. Your local shelter or humane association should be able to give you that information in advance, so you'll have it when you need it.

Q: My cat is 7 years old. We are moving to a new house. When we let the cat out in the back yard, will she find her way back or do we have to introduce her to the surroundings? What should we do? -- C.M., via e-mail

A: Your cat needs a couple of weeks indoors to settle into a new routine, to become familiar with the house and use her scratching post and litter box normally again. Don't rush her. Be observant of the signs that your cat is becoming less tentative and more confident in her explorations of your new home, and above all, don't allow her outside until she's comfortable with the inside of your house.

After your cat settles down inside the house, you can start taking her out on a harness and leash and follow her around as she becomes familiar with the new area. Coax her back in by using praise and treats -- let her walk in, if you can, instead of carrying her -- and follow each outing with special play or petting time, so she develops a positive association with your new house and is more likely to recognize it as home.

When is the right time to just let her come and go as she pleases? To be honest, it's always a gamble. Do your best to give your cat all the time she needs to settle in and then let her explore the outside for another week or more under your supervision. In the end, however, if you insist on letting your cat outdoors, you just must chance it and hope for the best. If you've taken the time your cat needs to adjust, she's probably going to stick around.

Remember, though, that cats do live longer, healthier lives indoors. There's no better time to convert an indoor-outdoor cat to one who's strictly indoors than when you move to a new home. The territory your cat hasn't explored she won't miss, so if you keep her inside from the get-go, she should adapt pretty quickly.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The following story is true. The names have been changed to protect the innocent, by which I mean me, because the not-so-innocent will kill me if I hold him up for public disapproval. Let's call him "John" and the dog "Spot."

So my brother John calls with a dog problem. Spot, adopted the age of a year, is a wonderful dog, but if he gets out the front door, he bolts. The first time this happened, John explained, he chased the dog for blocks and finally cornered him. And what did he do at the moment of joyous reunion?

"I spanked him," said John.

To be fair, John's reaction is fairly typical. It's easy to become, shall we say, annoyed at a dog who has led you on a merry chase, making you look the fool in front of neighbors and passers-by. And no doubt it not only seems to make sense, but it also sure as heck feels right to paddle the pet. Besides, he'll learn that way, right?

Wrong. Punishing a dog for running from you is one surefire way to make sure he's even harder to catch the next time. Wouldn't you keep running if you knew you'd get spanked when caught? Of course you would. And that leads to the No. 1 rule of catching a loose dog: Never punish a dog for running away, and never, ever punish a dog for coming to you.

Actually, that's rule No. 2. The first rule is to make sure your dog understands what you mean when you say "come." And that involves training.

Teaching the "come" is easy, in theory. Put your dog on a sit-stay on leash, call his name, say "come," and reel him in with praise (and more praise when he gets to you). So how come the majority of dog owners have to cross their fingers when they call their dogs? One of the reasons is that their dogs fear being caught, as Spot does, but there are a couple of others. And sometimes more than one reason applies.

Perhaps the dog doesn't really know the command. Few people practice the recall as much as they should, even though it's the one command that can save your dog's life. You probably use "sit" a half-dozen times a day, just around the house, but you probably never say "come" when you want your dog to come to you in the house. You probably just use his name. Or maybe not even that, since the opening of the refrigerator door will get you a canine appearance at the speed of light. But the dog doesn't know "come." He knows if he's sitting in just the right place, you may drop something yummy. Big difference.

"Come" is also about respect, and your dog may not have any for you. Dogs aren't idiots. They know their four legs can outperform your two any day, and they know they can get away if they want to. "Come" is where all that work in developing the relationship with your dog pays off. A dog who knows what's expected of him and respects you is going to mind. A dog who knows you're not a deity but a flat-footed slowpoke who couldn't catch a bus is going to treat you like the fool he thinks you are.

How to fix this? Train your dog to come in increments, on-leash and on longer leashes and lighter lines still. Get a trainer's help if you need to. Never let him get into a position where he learns that you really can't do much about it when he bolts. Practice, not just in formal training but in everyday life. Build on your successes. Kneel down and open your arms when calling your dog to make yourself more inviting, and praise, praise, praise.

But what about the untrained dog, like Spot? Never let a dog who isn't reliable on the recall off-leash -- you're putting his life in danger and making certain he'll become even less responsive. If your dog takes off on you, try to use a command he knows well like "sit" instead of "come." Most dogs know "sit" so well they'll plant their rumps, and once they're planted, you can praise and take their collars. Another possibility is to run away from your dog, enticing him to follow you. The chase instinct is very strong in dogs.

Remember, a loose-dog situation is not about dog training, but about dog saving. When you have your dog safely on leash, praise him and make a vow to teach him this most important of commands.

PETS ON THE WEB

When you think "parrot," chances are the image that comes to mind is a macaw, cockatoo or any of the bigger birds kept as pets. But the parrot family also includes some of the most popular small pet birds -- budgies, lovebirds and cockatiels. The "We're Parrots Too!" Web site (www.highwayq.com/wpt) is an excellent collection with up-to-date information about caring for the little guys. Designer, author and editor Krista Menzel has pulled together a great deal of information, including a few thought-provoking articles. Since she makes her living as a graphic designer, it's no surprise the "We're Parrots Too!" site is well-designed and easy to negotiate.

THE SCOOP

Ever wonder about the medication your veterinarian sends home with your sick pet -- its efficacy or its side effects? Wonder no more. The folks who produce the excellent guide to human medications have now done the same for dogs and cats, and it's a must-have for any pet lover. "The Pill Book Guide to Medication for Your Dog and Cat" (Bantam Books, $6.99) lives up to its claim as the most comprehensive, authoritative and up-to-date guide available on common medications for dogs and cats. Each of the hundreds of entries lists both generic and brand names, dosages and warnings for special pets such as the very young or very old. Fantastic!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our golden retriever is a gentle dog, but the other day when we were walking him (on a leash) he was attacked by a loose dog, a shepherd mix of some sort. He defended himself, but was still hurt and needed stitches. We didn't really know what to do, and my husband was bitten trying to pull our dog away. What is the best way to break up a fight? -- S.B., via the Internet

A: Anyone who has ever walked a dog has experienced that terrifying moment when a vicious, unleashed dog is intent on doing harm to yours. It's a dangerous situation, even for owners of big dogs. For small dogs, it could be a fatal encounter.

While the best strategy is to avoid dogs who appear aggressive -- with erect body stances instead of the relaxed, ears-back attitude of a dog coming over to play -- sometimes there's no escape from a dominant dog.

If the other dog's owner is nearby, demand he put his canine terrorist on leash. Should he be clueless enough to say "mine's friendly," yell back "mine's not" and make your demand again. If you can, bring your dog into a sitting position between your legs, with your hand around his muzzle and your foot near his flank. This removes the "sniff zones" the dominant dog is looking for. Yelling "no!" in a deep voice at the aggressor and twirling your leash like a lasso in front of him will sometimes send him packing, too.

If a fight starts, stay out of it. You could be badly hurt. If you're willing to risk a bite and there's another person to help, pull the dogs apart by their tails -- not their collars. If you're alone and there's a hose nearby, hitting them in chops with a high-volume water spray will usually stop the action.

Q: I would really love to have a sugar glider, but my mom says that they are ugly, and that I can't get one! What should I tell her? H.G., via e-mail

A. Although sugar gliders, small flying mammals, have become popular recently, maybe a compromise is in order. Would you consider a hamster or a guinea pig instead? Both make wonderful pets, and your mom may think them more adorable than the sugar glider.

One way you may be able to convince your mom you're ready for a pet is to take care of a friend's pet while she's on vacation. If you can show your mom you're capable of feeding, handling and keeping a "loaner" pet clean, you might be able to have a pet of your own soon. Good luck.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600