The following story is true. The names have been changed to protect the innocent, by which I mean me, because the not-so-innocent will kill me if I hold him up for public disapproval. Let's call him "John" and the dog "Spot."

So my brother John calls with a dog problem. Spot, adopted the age of a year, is a wonderful dog, but if he gets out the front door, he bolts. The first time this happened, John explained, he chased the dog for blocks and finally cornered him. And what did he do at the moment of joyous reunion?

"I spanked him," said John.

To be fair, John's reaction is fairly typical. It's easy to become, shall we say, annoyed at a dog who has led you on a merry chase, making you look the fool in front of neighbors and passers-by. And no doubt it not only seems to make sense, but it also sure as heck feels right to paddle the pet. Besides, he'll learn that way, right?

Wrong. Punishing a dog for running from you is one surefire way to make sure he's even harder to catch the next time. Wouldn't you keep running if you knew you'd get spanked when caught? Of course you would. And that leads to the No. 1 rule of catching a loose dog: Never punish a dog for running away, and never, ever punish a dog for coming to you.

Actually, that's rule No. 2. The first rule is to make sure your dog understands what you mean when you say "come." And that involves training.

Teaching the "come" is easy, in theory. Put your dog on a sit-stay on leash, call his name, say "come," and reel him in with praise (and more praise when he gets to you). So how come the majority of dog owners have to cross their fingers when they call their dogs? One of the reasons is that their dogs fear being caught, as Spot does, but there are a couple of others. And sometimes more than one reason applies.

Perhaps the dog doesn't really know the command. Few people practice the recall as much as they should, even though it's the one command that can save your dog's life. You probably use "sit" a half-dozen times a day, just around the house, but you probably never say "come" when you want your dog to come to you in the house. You probably just use his name. Or maybe not even that, since the opening of the refrigerator door will get you a canine appearance at the speed of light. But the dog doesn't know "come." He knows if he's sitting in just the right place, you may drop something yummy. Big difference.

"Come" is also about respect, and your dog may not have any for you. Dogs aren't idiots. They know their four legs can outperform your two any day, and they know they can get away if they want to. "Come" is where all that work in developing the relationship with your dog pays off. A dog who knows what's expected of him and respects you is going to mind. A dog who knows you're not a deity but a flat-footed slowpoke who couldn't catch a bus is going to treat you like the fool he thinks you are.

How to fix this? Train your dog to come in increments, on-leash and on longer leashes and lighter lines still. Get a trainer's help if you need to. Never let him get into a position where he learns that you really can't do much about it when he bolts. Practice, not just in formal training but in everyday life. Build on your successes. Kneel down and open your arms when calling your dog to make yourself more inviting, and praise, praise, praise.

But what about the untrained dog, like Spot? Never let a dog who isn't reliable on the recall off-leash -- you're putting his life in danger and making certain he'll become even less responsive. If your dog takes off on you, try to use a command he knows well like "sit" instead of "come." Most dogs know "sit" so well they'll plant their rumps, and once they're planted, you can praise and take their collars. Another possibility is to run away from your dog, enticing him to follow you. The chase instinct is very strong in dogs.

Remember, a loose-dog situation is not about dog training, but about dog saving. When you have your dog safely on leash, praise him and make a vow to teach him this most important of commands.

PETS ON THE WEB

When you think "parrot," chances are the image that comes to mind is a macaw, cockatoo or any of the bigger birds kept as pets. But the parrot family also includes some of the most popular small pet birds -- budgies, lovebirds and cockatiels. The "We're Parrots Too!" Web site (www.highwayq.com/wpt) is an excellent collection with up-to-date information about caring for the little guys. Designer, author and editor Krista Menzel has pulled together a great deal of information, including a few thought-provoking articles. Since she makes her living as a graphic designer, it's no surprise the "We're Parrots Too!" site is well-designed and easy to negotiate.

THE SCOOP

Ever wonder about the medication your veterinarian sends home with your sick pet -- its efficacy or its side effects? Wonder no more. The folks who produce the excellent guide to human medications have now done the same for dogs and cats, and it's a must-have for any pet lover. "The Pill Book Guide to Medication for Your Dog and Cat" (Bantam Books, $6.99) lives up to its claim as the most comprehensive, authoritative and up-to-date guide available on common medications for dogs and cats. Each of the hundreds of entries lists both generic and brand names, dosages and warnings for special pets such as the very young or very old. Fantastic!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our golden retriever is a gentle dog, but the other day when we were walking him (on a leash) he was attacked by a loose dog, a shepherd mix of some sort. He defended himself, but was still hurt and needed stitches. We didn't really know what to do, and my husband was bitten trying to pull our dog away. What is the best way to break up a fight? -- S.B., via the Internet

A: Anyone who has ever walked a dog has experienced that terrifying moment when a vicious, unleashed dog is intent on doing harm to yours. It's a dangerous situation, even for owners of big dogs. For small dogs, it could be a fatal encounter.

While the best strategy is to avoid dogs who appear aggressive -- with erect body stances instead of the relaxed, ears-back attitude of a dog coming over to play -- sometimes there's no escape from a dominant dog.

If the other dog's owner is nearby, demand he put his canine terrorist on leash. Should he be clueless enough to say "mine's friendly," yell back "mine's not" and make your demand again. If you can, bring your dog into a sitting position between your legs, with your hand around his muzzle and your foot near his flank. This removes the "sniff zones" the dominant dog is looking for. Yelling "no!" in a deep voice at the aggressor and twirling your leash like a lasso in front of him will sometimes send him packing, too.

If a fight starts, stay out of it. You could be badly hurt. If you're willing to risk a bite and there's another person to help, pull the dogs apart by their tails -- not their collars. If you're alone and there's a hose nearby, hitting them in chops with a high-volume water spray will usually stop the action.

Q: I would really love to have a sugar glider, but my mom says that they are ugly, and that I can't get one! What should I tell her? H.G., via e-mail

A. Although sugar gliders, small flying mammals, have become popular recently, maybe a compromise is in order. Would you consider a hamster or a guinea pig instead? Both make wonderful pets, and your mom may think them more adorable than the sugar glider.

One way you may be able to convince your mom you're ready for a pet is to take care of a friend's pet while she's on vacation. If you can show your mom you're capable of feeding, handling and keeping a "loaner" pet clean, you might be able to have a pet of your own soon. Good luck.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

June is the reason I don't recommend puppies in December.

The Christmas puppy is one of those ideas that seem so perfect, but the months that follow -- with cold, short days -- are the worst for raising and training a puppy. By the time summer arrives, too many of those Christmas puppies are untrained and too often on their way to being unwanted. The "puppy cutes" are long gone, and the boisterousness of adolescence is at its peak.

I get letters every day from people who are ready to give up. "If we can't get him to stop (jumping up, disobeying, digging, barking, chewing), we're going to have to get rid of him," they say.

No phrase sets my teeth on edge like "have to get rid of." I always think: "Is someone threatening your life? You (BEGIN ITAL)have to(END ITAL)? And what's with 'get rid of'? Sounds like you're putting something out for the trash."

The next sentences in these letters almost certainly include a recommendation of the kind of home that would be "perfect" for the dog. One with "more space" or "more time." As if homes are plentiful for former Christmas puppies with energy to burn and absolutely no training or manners. Forget it! You're the one who took responsibility for your pup, and you're the one who'll have to fix the problems you let develop.

Yes, these dogs are fixable, and if you have one of them, you must try. Really, really try. You owe it to the pup you made such a fuss over a few short months ago to be patient and to work to make it right.

The key to getting past the rough spots: training and exercise.

If you've avoided an obedience class so far -- and you really shouldn't have, since puppy classes start for dogs as young as 12 weeks -- sign up for one now. Training may seem to be about control, but it's more about communication. When you train your dog, you're providing a common language, a way to form a strong and healthy bond between you.

Training is for life. Your dog needs to keep learning, and keep using all he has been taught. That doesn't mean you have to make formal obedience sessions a permanent part of your life. Instead, think of creative ways to expand your dog's working vocabulary and integrate the skills he has learned into your life together. Two minutes here, sitting and staying for his supper dish, one minute there, coming from one end of the house to another when you call -- it all adds up.

So get going, and get individual help if you need it. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a training class, and don't be shy about scheduling a concentrated, private session with a trainer or behaviorist. Having a trainer pinpoint what you're doing wrong can save you plenty of time, and it's a cheaper than replacing a chewed couch.

Along with the training, start exercising your dog. Probably one of the biggest contributors to behavior problems is that dogs don't get nearly enough exercise. Your dog needs 30 to 40 minutes of aerobic exercise that gets his heart pumping, and he needs it three or more times a week to stay fit, burn excess energy and alleviate the stresses of modern life, such as staying alone for hours every day.

Exercise is especially important for dogs with a working heritage such as sporting or herding breeds. They need to move! Playing fetch, jogging, boisterous play with other dogs -- whatever it takes and whatever you can, get exercise into your dog's life. Nothing calms down a "hyper" dog like regular exercise.

If you're having problems taking your dog out on leash for exercise, invest in a head halter along with training. These fairly new contraptions for dogs resemble those used on horses, and both work on the principle that "where the head goes, the body follows." They've made it possible for many people to take their dogs with them.

Get training, get help, get exercise, but above all, get going. Sure, it takes time and effort to raise a dog right, but the payoff is grand. Remember the dog you imagined your Christmas puppy becoming? He's in there still. And it's up to you to turn that dream into reality. Your dog is counting on you.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Direct Book Service's Dog and Cat Book Catalog (www.dogandcatbooks.com) is looking to become the Amazon.com of pet-related books. The company has always been the place to go for the largest selection of pet books, and the knowledge that comes with serving a specialty niche shows in the site's picks for top books in different pet-related categories. This is a great place to look for books on rare breeds, dog sports, natural care and nutrition because the Dog and Cat Book Catalog carries a lot of small-press or self-published books the big guys just won't bother with. You can also order by phone (or request a catalog) by calling 1-800-776-2665.

THE SCOOP

Toys are not optional equipment for pets. The life of a pet can be very dull, and toys help keep the mind and body happy. Some of the best toys for small pets can be had for little or no money at all. For rabbits and guinea pigs, or cockatiels and other small parrots, the cores from toilet paper and paper towels are wonderful to play with and destroy. Toy keys made of hard plastic are also popular with these pets, and you can usually find them at a better price in the baby section than the pet section of discount stores. Cat-toy freebies include the retainer ring off the caps of plastic milk jugs, along with champagne corks, empty film containers, and empty cardboard boxes or paper shopping bags.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We recently got a new puppy that would rather eat the cat's food than his own. Could this be harmful? -- H. N., via e-mail

Q: I have three cats and one 4-pound Chihuahua. They all like to eat one another's food. But I know that's not good for them, and we don't allow it. Is there any food that they can both eat safely? -- P.J., via e-mail

A: Because cats are true predators, they require high levels of protein in their food, more so than dogs, who are as much scavengers as predators. The protein levels is why dogs love cat food -- and also why they're so fond of cruising for disgusting litter box "snacks."

Cats are better off eating cat food, and dogs are better off eating dog food. For some dogs, the higher protein levels in cat food can cause health problems.

No matter what your pets think, they need to stick to their own food. For large dogs, a cat-sized hole in an interior door will keep food and the litter box off-limits. Small dogs can be thwarted by a baby gate: easy for cats to clear but impossible for small dogs to get around. You can also try elevated dining for the cats -- on a counter, a washing machine or even a sturdy shelf. My friend Jan tipped a milk crate on its side and secured it into a corner with the open side facing the walls. The cats can jump up, over and in, but the dog can only drool from the other side.

Q: My sister asked me to buy her some medicine that makes cat fur beautiful. She didn't know how to spell the name, but it was something that begins with a "c." Do you have any idea what it is and where I can buy it? -- C.R., via e-mail

A: Save your money. Good health, good nutrition and good grooming make a cat's coat beautiful. The answer doesn't come in a bottle.

If your sister's cat has a coat that's less than lovely, encourage her to take her pet to the veterinarian. Skin problems can make animals miserable and may be the symptom of a serious health problem -- as may be a cat's failure to keep himself well-groomed. Proper diagnosis and treatment by a veterinarian is the only way to figure out exactly what's going on and get it fixed.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Is there a happy medium between keeping cats completely indoors and letting them roam where they wish? Is it possible to fence in a cat? The answer to both of these questions: maybe so.

Alley Cat Allies, a Washington, D.C.-based feral cat advocacy group, swears by cat fencing, and at least one reader does the same, writing me recently that I need to let people know about an option that will keep cats from roaming beyond their owners' property but will let them enjoy the outdoors.

"I have rescued cats for more than 10 years," writes the reader, "and after one of my cats was hit and killed in front of my house, I built a cat fence. The fence has been up for about eight years and not one cat has escaped."

Cat fencing works on the principal that cats can't stand unsteady material under their paws. Using loose netting with lots of "give" convinces cats in short order that they're better leaving the fence alone and staying put. Now I wouldn't want to put these theories to the test where matters of love and hormones are involved, nor would I count on fencing to deter coyotes or other predators who have been known to consider house cats as meals. But for altered city cats, cat fencing has real promise.

The heart of cat fencing is 1-by-1-inch garden mesh, a polypropylene net product available at nursery or hardware stores, or by mail. On a low fence, such as a 4-foot chain-link, 7-foot poles are used to rig the net high enough to thwart any jumping. On 6-foot wooden privacy fences, flag-pole mounting hardware keeps the net screen at an angle, low and out of sight. Fishing line is used liberally between poles as the top "frame" for the netting.

Alley Cat Allies says cats will usually spend a couple of weeks trying to figure a way out before deciding there's no place like home. Although many cats can and do live healthy and happy lives indoors, if your tiger is one of those who won't give up the outdoors, cat fencing is certainly worth your consideration. I'm for anything that keeps cats safe and neighbors happy.

Complete instructions, including sources for the netting and other materials, are available for the asking from Alley Cat Allies, P.O. Box 397, Mount Rainier, Md. 20712, or via e-mail: alleycat(at)alleycat.org. You can also find detailed directions on the Web at www.feralcat.com/fence.html. Alley Cat Allies can be found at www.alleycat.org, with a site offering humane and progressive ideas on dealing with the problems of feral cats.

Since this gem of an idea was brought to my attention by a caring reader, I'd like to share another. A recent question about a rubber-band-eating kitten brought this suggestion for how to keep rubber bands in line. "We keep our excess rubber bands on a cardboard core from toilet paper rolls," shares the reader. "We then give the rolls to the paper deliverers. And any rubber bands headed for the garbage dump are cut to prevent entanglement on any animals that might visit the dump sites."

Great ideas, all. If you have any you're like to share, please do. We're all in this together for the love of animals.

PETS ON THE WEB

Sometimes you just gotta go for the giggle. The Internet is such a great source of information -- and sometimes misinformation -- that you can sometimes forget Web surfing can be a great source of serendipitous pleasure. If you doubt it, check out the Hamster Dance Web site (www.hampsterdance.com). The site is nothing but dancing rodents and goofy music, but it'll make you laugh. When you've had enough, click on the links at the bottom of the page to go to related sites, including dancing fish and cows. Silly? You bet. But don't we all need it from time to time?

THE SCOOP

Is it possible to top a purr-fect book? Bob "BobCat" Walker has just proven you can get awfully close. His first book, "The Cats' House," is one of my all-time favorites, so much loved that I have bought more than a dozen copies as gifts. "The Cats' House" is a colorful celebration of the cat-centric world that Walker and his wife, Frances Mooney, have created in their San Diego home. Filled with floor-to-ceiling cat trees and ramps leading up to catwalks that cut through walls, the home is a paradise for a group of lucky cats (and one earthbound husky). "Cats Into Everything," the new book, is just as delightful, showcasing more of Walker's whimsy and his creative ideas of art and photography. When I die, I want to come back as one of these cats! You must have these books, each $18.95 from Andrews McMeel Publishing.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have been looking for a cure for lawn spots. I have a 1 1/2 year old yellow Lab, Carly, who weighs 85 pounds. This is the first summer she has been fully grown, and I am noticing a considerable amount of yellow spots from her urine.

I am frustrated with the appearance of my lawn, and I will replace those spots already burned. However, how can I prevent or lessen the burning effects of my dog's urine? -- D.S., via e-mail

A: O spring, when thoughts turns to lawns, and lawns turn to brown patches, thanks to our beloved dogs. I have to admit I have long ago thrown in the towel on this particular problem. My lawn is nothing more than green weeds, kept watered and mowed, and I have shifted my gardening efforts to keeping my oldest dog, Andy, out of the tomatoes.

As for lawn burns, you can't mess with the chemistry of the situation. Urine is what it is, and it has an effect on plants that cannot be altered. You can flush freshly flooded spots with water to dilute the urine, and you can cut out the damaged areas, replant or plug in fresh sod. But you can't much alter the nature of what your dog's eliminating. Personally, I cannot recommend adding substances to your dog's diet in an effort to dilute urine from the source -- if you want to mess with your pet's health for the sake of a lawn, you won't get a nod of approval from me.

The only surefire way I know of to keep lawns perfect is to keep dogs off them. One way to do this is with barriers that keep your dog in "her part" of the yard unless you're with her. Another is to train her to use just part of the yard -- around the corner, out of sight -- for her bathroom. To train, keep her on leash in the yard and take her to the part of the yard you wish her to use, then give her "potty command" (I use "hurry up" with my dogs), and praise when she goes. If you're consistent and patient, she'll get the point in due time.

Q: I know that the purple tongue is a trait of chows. Are there other breeds that have this same trait? I have recently added a new member to my family, and he is a mix of shepherd and who-knows-what. He has a purple tongue. -- P.D., via e-mail

A: While anything's possible, I suppose, I'd go along with what you're guessing and put my money on some chow in your new dog's background.

According to the American Kennel Club, the chow is the only dog in the world with a purple-black tongue. In fact, in the part of China where the breed is considered to have originated, the name for the chow translates to "black-tongued" or "black-mouthed" dog.

Chow fanciers very much intend to keep the breed's distinctiveness alive -- at dog shows, chows who don't feature black tongues are disqualified.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600