Is there a happy medium between keeping cats completely indoors and letting them roam where they wish? Is it possible to fence in a cat? The answer to both of these questions: maybe so.

Alley Cat Allies, a Washington, D.C.-based feral cat advocacy group, swears by cat fencing, and at least one reader does the same, writing me recently that I need to let people know about an option that will keep cats from roaming beyond their owners' property but will let them enjoy the outdoors.

"I have rescued cats for more than 10 years," writes the reader, "and after one of my cats was hit and killed in front of my house, I built a cat fence. The fence has been up for about eight years and not one cat has escaped."

Cat fencing works on the principal that cats can't stand unsteady material under their paws. Using loose netting with lots of "give" convinces cats in short order that they're better leaving the fence alone and staying put. Now I wouldn't want to put these theories to the test where matters of love and hormones are involved, nor would I count on fencing to deter coyotes or other predators who have been known to consider house cats as meals. But for altered city cats, cat fencing has real promise.

The heart of cat fencing is 1-by-1-inch garden mesh, a polypropylene net product available at nursery or hardware stores, or by mail. On a low fence, such as a 4-foot chain-link, 7-foot poles are used to rig the net high enough to thwart any jumping. On 6-foot wooden privacy fences, flag-pole mounting hardware keeps the net screen at an angle, low and out of sight. Fishing line is used liberally between poles as the top "frame" for the netting.

Alley Cat Allies says cats will usually spend a couple of weeks trying to figure a way out before deciding there's no place like home. Although many cats can and do live healthy and happy lives indoors, if your tiger is one of those who won't give up the outdoors, cat fencing is certainly worth your consideration. I'm for anything that keeps cats safe and neighbors happy.

Complete instructions, including sources for the netting and other materials, are available for the asking from Alley Cat Allies, P.O. Box 397, Mount Rainier, Md. 20712, or via e-mail: alleycat(at)alleycat.org. You can also find detailed directions on the Web at www.feralcat.com/fence.html. Alley Cat Allies can be found at www.alleycat.org, with a site offering humane and progressive ideas on dealing with the problems of feral cats.

Since this gem of an idea was brought to my attention by a caring reader, I'd like to share another. A recent question about a rubber-band-eating kitten brought this suggestion for how to keep rubber bands in line. "We keep our excess rubber bands on a cardboard core from toilet paper rolls," shares the reader. "We then give the rolls to the paper deliverers. And any rubber bands headed for the garbage dump are cut to prevent entanglement on any animals that might visit the dump sites."

Great ideas, all. If you have any you're like to share, please do. We're all in this together for the love of animals.

PETS ON THE WEB

Sometimes you just gotta go for the giggle. The Internet is such a great source of information -- and sometimes misinformation -- that you can sometimes forget Web surfing can be a great source of serendipitous pleasure. If you doubt it, check out the Hamster Dance Web site (www.hampsterdance.com). The site is nothing but dancing rodents and goofy music, but it'll make you laugh. When you've had enough, click on the links at the bottom of the page to go to related sites, including dancing fish and cows. Silly? You bet. But don't we all need it from time to time?

THE SCOOP

Is it possible to top a purr-fect book? Bob "BobCat" Walker has just proven you can get awfully close. His first book, "The Cats' House," is one of my all-time favorites, so much loved that I have bought more than a dozen copies as gifts. "The Cats' House" is a colorful celebration of the cat-centric world that Walker and his wife, Frances Mooney, have created in their San Diego home. Filled with floor-to-ceiling cat trees and ramps leading up to catwalks that cut through walls, the home is a paradise for a group of lucky cats (and one earthbound husky). "Cats Into Everything," the new book, is just as delightful, showcasing more of Walker's whimsy and his creative ideas of art and photography. When I die, I want to come back as one of these cats! You must have these books, each $18.95 from Andrews McMeel Publishing.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have been looking for a cure for lawn spots. I have a 1 1/2 year old yellow Lab, Carly, who weighs 85 pounds. This is the first summer she has been fully grown, and I am noticing a considerable amount of yellow spots from her urine.

I am frustrated with the appearance of my lawn, and I will replace those spots already burned. However, how can I prevent or lessen the burning effects of my dog's urine? -- D.S., via e-mail

A: O spring, when thoughts turns to lawns, and lawns turn to brown patches, thanks to our beloved dogs. I have to admit I have long ago thrown in the towel on this particular problem. My lawn is nothing more than green weeds, kept watered and mowed, and I have shifted my gardening efforts to keeping my oldest dog, Andy, out of the tomatoes.

As for lawn burns, you can't mess with the chemistry of the situation. Urine is what it is, and it has an effect on plants that cannot be altered. You can flush freshly flooded spots with water to dilute the urine, and you can cut out the damaged areas, replant or plug in fresh sod. But you can't much alter the nature of what your dog's eliminating. Personally, I cannot recommend adding substances to your dog's diet in an effort to dilute urine from the source -- if you want to mess with your pet's health for the sake of a lawn, you won't get a nod of approval from me.

The only surefire way I know of to keep lawns perfect is to keep dogs off them. One way to do this is with barriers that keep your dog in "her part" of the yard unless you're with her. Another is to train her to use just part of the yard -- around the corner, out of sight -- for her bathroom. To train, keep her on leash in the yard and take her to the part of the yard you wish her to use, then give her "potty command" (I use "hurry up" with my dogs), and praise when she goes. If you're consistent and patient, she'll get the point in due time.

Q: I know that the purple tongue is a trait of chows. Are there other breeds that have this same trait? I have recently added a new member to my family, and he is a mix of shepherd and who-knows-what. He has a purple tongue. -- P.D., via e-mail

A: While anything's possible, I suppose, I'd go along with what you're guessing and put my money on some chow in your new dog's background.

According to the American Kennel Club, the chow is the only dog in the world with a purple-black tongue. In fact, in the part of China where the breed is considered to have originated, the name for the chow translates to "black-tongued" or "black-mouthed" dog.

Chow fanciers very much intend to keep the breed's distinctiveness alive -- at dog shows, chows who don't feature black tongues are disqualified.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Until recently, the sports open to dogs and their owners mostly have had their roots in the history of the breeds involved. Hunting dogs have field trials, sheep dogs have herding trials, guard dogs have protection trials. Even the sport of obedience, which should be open to all, has been mostly off-limits to mixed-breed dogs.

But a fresh breeze is blowing in the world of dog sports, attracting an ever larger pool of dogs and owners drawn by new sports that have little in common with the tradition-bound and often cliquish competitions of old. Easy to understand and open to any kind of dog regardless of size or breeding, flyball and agility are the hottest dog sports around.

Author Cynthia Miller thinks the appeal can be summed up in a single word: fun. The events are just plain entertaining for dog, owner and spectator alike.

"There's increased interest in the more fun-oriented dog sports," says Miller, the Yuba City, Calif., author of "Canine Adventures: Fun Things to Do With Your Dog" (Animalia Publishing, $22.95). "I would say agility is No. 1. It's action-packed, and you can tell the dogs are so happy."

Agility is based on the equestrian sport of show jumping, evolving into a timed obstacle course with uniquely canine twists such as teeter-totters and tunnels added to the mix. The competitions are divided according to the height of the dog, with jumps adjusted up or down accordingly. Flyball is even simpler: a relay race where dogs have to navigate a series of low jumps, step down on ball launcher at the end and race back with the tennis ball.

Flyball and agility are but two of the 34 sports Miller covers in her book, an excellent step-by-step guide for anyone thinking about turning her canine couch potato into an athlete. Although Miller is high on the new sports, she points out that whatever sport you choose can have some surprising results.

"I think people don't realize what their dogs are capable of," she said. "When you say 'training,' too many people think 'military,' an obedience class they drop out of after two or three weeks because the dog doesn't succeed. The dog's still a pain, and he's thrown outside.

"But sports are fun. When people get involved, they want their dogs with them all the time." And the dogs, she adds, become better, well-mannered companions as a result, citing one of her own two dogs as an example.

"I have a Bouvier who doesn't like anything," she said. "Training her to sit, it was like, 'Oh yeah, just make me.' But she loves agility. It wakes up their minds as well as their bodies."

It can all start with a walk around the block, says Miller, who has also worked as an aerobics instructor and personal trainer. When dog and owner are no longer puffing, it's time to move into a class. Agility, after all, requires a certain amount of fitness from the human half of the team, who must run the course with the dog, directing him over the obstacles.

While active breeds such as border collies, Shelties and terriers seem to do especially well in the new sports, Miller says you shouldn't despair even if your dog is a basset hound and you're just about as well-suited for athletic endeavors.

"A lot of people don't want to compete," she said. "They just want to have fun. And there's a place for that."

PETS ON THE WEB

Spring is especially sweet for those who share their lives with turtles and tortoises -- it's the time when these gentle pets come out of their cold-weather sleep. If you're just waking up to the appeal of turtles and tortoises, a couple of Web sites will provide you with what you need to know to care for them properly. Probably the most comprehensive site of its kind is that of the California Turtle & Tortoise Club (www.tortoise.org). This well-organized site offers lots of care information, photographs, and a calendar of events from around the world. Good links, libraries of pictures and sound files round out this very nice site. Felice's World of Turtles (ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/felicerood) isn't quite as complete, but it did reveal the unique point of view of its creator, Felice Rood, founder, president and guiding force of the Sacramento Turtle and Tortoise Club.

THE SCOOP

Foxtails or other nettles can cause your pet a lot of pain and cost you a lot of money if allowed to burrow into your pet's skin. After a visit to any weed-strewn area, check your pet for these hitchhiking seed pods and pull them out immediately. Favorite hiding places include the ears, nose and between the toes. If your pet starts sneezing or head-shaking after a romp, you've probably missed one, and your vet will have to dig it out. Foxtails never go away. They just dig in deeper, causing problems as they go, so don't delay. To get burrs out of coats, here's a tip from a hunting dog trainer: Apply some Pam nonstick cooking spray to grease up the area, then comb each burr out.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I didn't know seeds weren't a good diet for my cockatiel until I read your column on the subject. How can I change my bird to a healthier diet? So far, I've gotten nowhere. Kirby's a seed junkie. Help! -- K.M., via e-mail

A: Converting a seed junkie to healthy eating isn't easy, but it can be done with patience and perseverance. The first step is to make sure he's in good health before putting him through the stress of such a big change. Birds are adept at hiding illness, and the stress of a diet change may be too much for a bird who's sick. Have your veterinarian go over him thoroughly.

Once you know your bird's in good health, you can start the big switch. Here are a few strategies:

-- Gradually reduce the amount of seeds. Start with a 50/50 blend of seeds and pellets for two to four weeks, then reduce slowly over time. Vary the amounts of pellets, fruit, veggies and seeds offered each day, Be inconsistent in what your bird can expect to see in the food bowl every day.

-- Feed new foods in the morning. Birds are the most hungry when they first wake up, so offer pellets and vegetables exclusively at the start of the day before offering seeds.

-- Set a good example. Birds learn by watching. If you have one bird who is on a healthy diet, let your other bird watch. Another option: Eat in front of your bird. Healthy people food is healthy bird food, too, so share everything except avocados, alcohol, high-fat foods and sweets.

Birds can and do starve themselves to death. During the conversion process, make sure you observe your bird eating; make sure that he is passing feces in his droppings of adequate volume and consistency; and check the muscle on both sides of his keel bone (which runs right down the middle of his chest) to be sure he's maintaining weight. Don't be in a hurry to change your pet's diet. Follow his lead in determining how fast to reduce the amount of seeds in his diet.

My Senegal parrot, Patrick, gets a seed or two as a treat when we watch TV together in the evenings. He loves them, but is quite happy to eat a mix of healthier foods the rest of the time.

Q: Our local shelter won't adopt out an animal that hasn't been spayed or neutered, and that includes puppies and kittens. I didn't realize you could do this to baby animals. Is it safe? -- C.R., via e-mail.

A: Too many people who adopt shelter animals don't fulfill their promises to spay or neuter their new pets. It's often not intentional; they just forget or don't get around to it, and soon there's a new litter for the shelter to deal with.

This revolving-door situation -- single pet out, multiple pets in -- is a demoralizing disaster for the folks at the shelters, since many of these babies won't find homes. Shelters know the best way to save pet lives is to prevent them from being born, which is why many have started spaying and neutering pets before they leave the shelter. No more "oops" litters.

And yes, the new rules often include kittens and puppies. Spaying and neuterings can now be safely performed on pets as young as 8 weeks, and the procedure has been endorsed by prominent veterinary and humane organizations.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is house-trained or he isn't.

Why is this so important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who really isn't getting the picture, probably because no one took the time to teach it to him properly in the first place. And that's what you'll have to do.

Before you train him, though, make sure you're not dealing with a sick dog. If you have a dog who was perfectly house-trained and isn't any longer, you must determine that what you have really is a behavior problem, not a medical problem. So check with your veterinarian. If you've just adopted an adult dog, you should have him checked out, too, before assuming he's not house-trained. Not only is ruling out medical problems the fair thing to do, it's also the only sensible route: You won't be able to change the habits of a dog who can't help what he's doing wrong.

Once you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except that you have to be even more diligent because you'll be doing some untraining, too. You need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend two weeks ensuring he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake. Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house, so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, correct him with a sharp "no," take him outside, give your "go" command -- I use "hurry up" with my dogs -- and praise him for doing right.

-- Use a shipping crate to contain him whenever he's not on leash with you. A grown dog can be confined a lot longer than a puppy can, and it's not unfair to confine him for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular exercise at other times. If you go to work, you can leave him in the crate with a couple of chew toys to keep him busy and a radio playing to keep him company.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed, when you put him in his crate for the night. Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise, praise, praise when he does as you wish.

The most difficult part of house-training an adult dog is often the owner's attitude toward limiting the pet's options in such a way as to make success possible. And that means a crate and a leash. People seem able to accept a crate more with puppies, perhaps because they enjoy the respite they gain when their little terror is confined. You may not like the idea of crating and leashing your adult dog, but bear in mind you won't need to do it forever. But you will need to do it for now.

If you've been consistent, your dog will likely have a good idea of what's expected of him at the end of the two weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents will happen. If you catch him, correct him with a sharp "no," take him outside and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise if he does. Clean up the mess promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel so inclined to refresh his smell there. If you aren't catching him but you're still finding messes, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash and start over.

Consistency and patience are necessary for house-training an adult dog. If you have both, you will likely succeed. Without them, you'll have a very difficult time getting the results you're hoping for. If after a couple of weeks you still seem to be getting nowhere, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a qualified behaviorist.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Winn Feline Foundation (www.winnfelinehealth.org) is one of those rare charities where 100 percent of every donation goes to its work -- the direct funding of research that will improve the lives of cats and those who love them. Founded in 1968, the foundation has awarded grants for research that has ended up saving the live of hundreds of thousands of cats. The Foundation's simple Web site lists its current projects as well information on its upcoming annual feline health symposium.

THE SCOOP

A couple of months ago, I wrote about ID tags and how important it was to keep them current and keep them on your pet's collar. I mentioned my dislike for "S"-hook tag fasteners, which tend to drop tags and catch on things. The "O"-shaped key-ring type fastener is safer and more secure. This week a reader checked in with the remarkable story of how one of her dogs got an eyelid caught on the "S" hook of the other dog. The freak accident ripped open the dog's eyelid, required a trip to the emergency veterinary clinic and a couple of stitches. The veterinarian told the reader the dog was lucky to have escaped permanent damage. "I can't reiterate how these hooks -- something you think of as a totally innocuous object -- can hurt an animal," she writes. I agree, and it won't take you but a few cents and a little time to make the change to an "O"-shaped tag holder. Do it today.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A friend of mine is giving away zebra finches. I think I would like to have one or two. I know nothing about birds, and I have a 1-year-old Chesapeake Bay retriever. I was wondering if you could tell me how you think that would work with the both of them. I would be keeping the birds in a cage up high. -- M.P., via e-mail

A: Zebra and society finches are the "easy keepers" of the finch group, hardy little guys who'll bring energy and sound into your home. Unlike hookbills -- budgies, cockatiels and parrots -- who thrive on physical interaction, finches will be happiest if you leave them alone. Safe in their cage, they should be safe from your dog's interest, which should quickly wane once he gets used to the noise and the motion.

Since cage-bound birds need to fly for exercise, make sure you purchase a cage that will give them some space -- the bigger the better, as long as their heads can't fit between the bars. Since birds aren't helicopters, choose a cage that's more horizontal than vertical, to give them room to flit from side to side.

Q: I have a problem with my 1-year-old kitten. He will eat anything that he can fit in his mouth. The other day I had to pull a broken rubber band out of his behind. That scares me. I am afraid that one of these days a foreign object will get caught in his intestines. Is there anything that I can do to stop his eating problem? -- B.C., via e-mail

A: You're right to be concerned. Any kind of ingested string, yarn, thread or rubber band poses the potential to become a real medical emergency, requiring surgery to put it right.

You're not going to be able to change your kitten's enthusiasm for rubber bands, but I can think of two things you can do to lessen the risk.

The first is to be diligent. Keep all strings and rubber bands out of your kitten's reach. Put loose bands in drawers, sewing or knitting kits in closets. What your kitten can't get his teeth on he can't swallow. Anything you cannot hide, such as electrical cords, can be liberally coated with Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance meant to stop chewing. You should be able to find it at any pet-supply store.

My second suggestion is to substitute safe toys and play with your cat to release some of that youthful energy of his. The best toys for this are toys on strings (for interactive play only) or "cat fishing poles" with toys on strong, lightweight wands. Light-chasing games are great, too.

If you keep your kitten busy with the good toys and keep the dangerous playthings hidden, you'll go a long way toward solving your problem.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or at WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600