The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is house-trained or he isn't.

Why is this so important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who really isn't getting the picture, probably because no one took the time to teach it to him properly in the first place. And that's what you'll have to do.

Before you train him, though, make sure you're not dealing with a sick dog. If you have a dog who was perfectly house-trained and isn't any longer, you must determine that what you have really is a behavior problem, not a medical problem. So check with your veterinarian. If you've just adopted an adult dog, you should have him checked out, too, before assuming he's not house-trained. Not only is ruling out medical problems the fair thing to do, it's also the only sensible route: You won't be able to change the habits of a dog who can't help what he's doing wrong.

Once you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except that you have to be even more diligent because you'll be doing some untraining, too. You need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend two weeks ensuring he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake. Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house, so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, correct him with a sharp "no," take him outside, give your "go" command -- I use "hurry up" with my dogs -- and praise him for doing right.

-- Use a shipping crate to contain him whenever he's not on leash with you. A grown dog can be confined a lot longer than a puppy can, and it's not unfair to confine him for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular exercise at other times. If you go to work, you can leave him in the crate with a couple of chew toys to keep him busy and a radio playing to keep him company.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed, when you put him in his crate for the night. Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise, praise, praise when he does as you wish.

The most difficult part of house-training an adult dog is often the owner's attitude toward limiting the pet's options in such a way as to make success possible. And that means a crate and a leash. People seem able to accept a crate more with puppies, perhaps because they enjoy the respite they gain when their little terror is confined. You may not like the idea of crating and leashing your adult dog, but bear in mind you won't need to do it forever. But you will need to do it for now.

If you've been consistent, your dog will likely have a good idea of what's expected of him at the end of the two weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents will happen. If you catch him, correct him with a sharp "no," take him outside and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise if he does. Clean up the mess promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel so inclined to refresh his smell there. If you aren't catching him but you're still finding messes, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash and start over.

Consistency and patience are necessary for house-training an adult dog. If you have both, you will likely succeed. Without them, you'll have a very difficult time getting the results you're hoping for. If after a couple of weeks you still seem to be getting nowhere, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a qualified behaviorist.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Winn Feline Foundation (www.winnfelinehealth.org) is one of those rare charities where 100 percent of every donation goes to its work -- the direct funding of research that will improve the lives of cats and those who love them. Founded in 1968, the foundation has awarded grants for research that has ended up saving the live of hundreds of thousands of cats. The Foundation's simple Web site lists its current projects as well information on its upcoming annual feline health symposium.

THE SCOOP

A couple of months ago, I wrote about ID tags and how important it was to keep them current and keep them on your pet's collar. I mentioned my dislike for "S"-hook tag fasteners, which tend to drop tags and catch on things. The "O"-shaped key-ring type fastener is safer and more secure. This week a reader checked in with the remarkable story of how one of her dogs got an eyelid caught on the "S" hook of the other dog. The freak accident ripped open the dog's eyelid, required a trip to the emergency veterinary clinic and a couple of stitches. The veterinarian told the reader the dog was lucky to have escaped permanent damage. "I can't reiterate how these hooks -- something you think of as a totally innocuous object -- can hurt an animal," she writes. I agree, and it won't take you but a few cents and a little time to make the change to an "O"-shaped tag holder. Do it today.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A friend of mine is giving away zebra finches. I think I would like to have one or two. I know nothing about birds, and I have a 1-year-old Chesapeake Bay retriever. I was wondering if you could tell me how you think that would work with the both of them. I would be keeping the birds in a cage up high. -- M.P., via e-mail

A: Zebra and society finches are the "easy keepers" of the finch group, hardy little guys who'll bring energy and sound into your home. Unlike hookbills -- budgies, cockatiels and parrots -- who thrive on physical interaction, finches will be happiest if you leave them alone. Safe in their cage, they should be safe from your dog's interest, which should quickly wane once he gets used to the noise and the motion.

Since cage-bound birds need to fly for exercise, make sure you purchase a cage that will give them some space -- the bigger the better, as long as their heads can't fit between the bars. Since birds aren't helicopters, choose a cage that's more horizontal than vertical, to give them room to flit from side to side.

Q: I have a problem with my 1-year-old kitten. He will eat anything that he can fit in his mouth. The other day I had to pull a broken rubber band out of his behind. That scares me. I am afraid that one of these days a foreign object will get caught in his intestines. Is there anything that I can do to stop his eating problem? -- B.C., via e-mail

A: You're right to be concerned. Any kind of ingested string, yarn, thread or rubber band poses the potential to become a real medical emergency, requiring surgery to put it right.

You're not going to be able to change your kitten's enthusiasm for rubber bands, but I can think of two things you can do to lessen the risk.

The first is to be diligent. Keep all strings and rubber bands out of your kitten's reach. Put loose bands in drawers, sewing or knitting kits in closets. What your kitten can't get his teeth on he can't swallow. Anything you cannot hide, such as electrical cords, can be liberally coated with Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance meant to stop chewing. You should be able to find it at any pet-supply store.

My second suggestion is to substitute safe toys and play with your cat to release some of that youthful energy of his. The best toys for this are toys on strings (for interactive play only) or "cat fishing poles" with toys on strong, lightweight wands. Light-chasing games are great, too.

If you keep your kitten busy with the good toys and keep the dangerous playthings hidden, you'll go a long way toward solving your problem.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or at WriteToGina(at)YourPetPlace.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

An ounce of prevention is truly worth a pound of cure when it comes to our pets, and in no case can this proverb be applied to better effect than when it comes to heartworm disease.

If the parasites don't kill your pet, the cure for them might. Makes that heartworm pill seem a great decision by comparison, doesn't it?

Is a spaghetti-string of a pest really worth worrying about? You bet it is. In dogs, heartworm disease has been found in every state. And in warmer parts of the country, protecting pets against the parasite is a year-round effort.

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes, which pick up the microscopic heartworm larvae called microfilarie when they draw blood from an infected animal. They share the parasites when they bite another animal. Once in a new host, the larvae make their way to heart, where they grow to be 9 to 14 inches long, blocking the flow of blood and causing severe damage and possibly death.

Heartworm symptoms are virtually the same as with any other form of heart disease. Most infested pets are brought to the veterinarian after their owners noticed them coughing at night, coughing after exercise or experiencing a more general loss in condition. By the time the symptoms are noticed, however, a great deal of damage has usually been done, not only to the heart, but also to other organs such as the kidneys, which rely on a steady flow of blood to operate.

Curing a heartworm infestation is not the risky business it once was, thanks to newer products that replace the old worm-killer, arsenic. But it's still nothing to wish on your best friend. Some pets don't survive even the safer treatment, and those who do have a struggle ahead of them. After the medication is administered, pets must be kept closely confined for weeks: no playing, no running, no walks except slowly and on leash, just for the purpose of pottying.

Preventive care remains the best option. That care starts with a heartworm test, a simple procedure that involves drawing blood and checking for the presence of the larvae.

If the test is negative, there are two forms of medication available to keep the dog free of heartworms. The daily pills protect by keeping a low dose of a chemical that is poisonous to the immature pests circulating in your pet's blood. The dose is safe for your pet, and it denies the worms a chance to settle in and grow.

The monthly pill provides enough of a different and similarly safe, effective drug in your pet to cover an entire month. (An added benefit of the monthlies: One manufacturer has combined the heartworm preventive with medications to help control fleas and intestinal parasites.)

Which product should you use? Talk to your veterinarian, and be clear about which you're more likely to administer reliably. If you're inclined to skip days, the monthly medication is your best bet. If you can reliably integrate the daily pill into your routine, though, it's a fine choice. And you can always switch to a monthly product if you miss enough days for the larvae to establish themselves.

A good way to ensure that your pet gets his monthly pill is to always give it on the same, easy-to-remember day of the month -- the first, perhaps, or the 15th.

Heartworm disease is often thought of as a problem just for dogs, but cats can also be infected, albeit nowhere near as commonly. Dr. Paul D. Pion, a board-certified veterinary cardiologist and president of the Veterinary Information Network (and my "Cats for Dummies" co-author), recommends checking with your veterinarian to see if heartworms are turning up in cats in your area. If the answer is yes, he recommends putting your cat on preventive medication.

PETS ON THE WEB

A visit to the Web sites of a pair of pet-loving mystery writers should give you some ideas for what books to take to the beach this summer. Carole Nelson Douglas writes a series in which a fabulous black feline named Midnight Louie figures prominently. Just out is "Cat in an Indigo Mood" (Forge, $24.95). The others you can find listed on her Web site (www. catwriter.com/cdouglas) along with Louie's online newsletter, the Scratching Post-Intelligencer.

For dog lovers, especially those with a passion for poodles, a visit to Laurien Berenson's Web site (members.aol.com/LTBerenson) is in order. "Watchdog" (Kensington, $20) is the most recent in her dog-show series, featuring amateur sleuth Melanie Travis.

THE SCOOP

Just now showing up in pet-supply stores and catalogs is a whimsical collection of furniture designed with felines in mind. Doskocil created the cat-sized pieces in the shape of a TV, a chair and a sock drawer, all with comfy places for cats to snooze (inside the "screen," in the case of the TV). The manufacturer swears the plastic pieces are easy to assemble (but the cat seems to have gotten its tongue on the topic of whether or not its products will keep your pet off the rest of your furniture). Priced from $50 up, the pieces seem a purrfect place for a nap, so maybe you'll get lucky.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have an 8-month-old cat (spayed) who is an inside/outside cat. Up until she was 7 months old, I lived in a house on several acres of land. She came and went as she pleased during the day, and at night I would bring her inside. There were not many threats to her safety because she never had to go near the road.

I moved last month. The front yard consists of a small lawn that is the only barrier between the road and the house. It's a somewhat busy road on which people tend to speed. I've already caught my cat in the roadside ditch chasing birds, which scared me.

In back of the house, we have a good-sized fenced-in lawn. But nearby are two pit bulls who are allowed to roam around for the most part. Right now, they can easily get into our back yard to chase my cat. We are building a better fence to remedy that problem.

Is there a way to keep my cat from going anywhere near the road? She used to stay strictly in the back because the traffic noise scared her, but now it doesn't seem to faze her.

I am terrified that she'll get hit by a car and killed. That's what happened on New Year's Day to the best cat I've ever had, and I don't think I could take it again. I'd appreciate any suggestions. -- S.R., Santa Rosa, Calif.

A: I bet you can guess what my suggestion will be. I also bet you won't like it. But the chances of your cat ending up dead are very high, and the only way to reduce the risk is to make yours an "indoor-only" pet.

Yes, your cat will hate it at first. Yes, you'll hate her carrying on, begging and crying to go out. But in time she will come to accept her new life, and it can be a happy one.

Converting an indoor-outdoor cat to an indoor-only is easy in theory but usually not in practice. The biggest problem is resolve. Once you make the decision to keep your cat in, you must resolve to ignore her demands to be let out. Every time you let her out because you can't stand her begging any more, you teach her a lesson: If I yowl louder, I get my way. When she learns that, you'd better lay in a supply of ear plugs and aspirin. You're going to need them.

If you don't let her out, she'll eventually give up asking. Provide her with a cat tree, lots of toys and attention. Consider a screened-in patio or tethered time outside with you. (Never leave a tethered cat unattended.)

More cats than ever before are living happy and certainly longer lives inside. Given your situation, your cat should probably be one of them.

Q: Is it advantageous to have a Siberian husky shaved for the summer? -- M.I., via e-mail

A: It's not necessary or even useful to shave longhaired dogs for the hottest part of the year. The only thing you'll really accomplish is making your lovely dog ugly.

Keep your pet clean and well-brushed, and provide ample shade and water. Better yet: Keep your pet in the same air-conditioned comfort you enjoy.

The only time shaving a longhaired pet is really necessary is when mats get out of control, and then a buzz cut is the humane option to tugging and pulling on those painful fur lumps.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If it's true you are what you eat, then many pet birds would look like turtles, on account of all the shells they have to crack to get at the kernels of the seeds we insist on giving them.

And that's too bad, because seeds alone are not enough to keep a bird healthy. If your pet bird's diet consists solely of seeds, chances are good that if he isn't sick now, he will be in time.

The idea that birds should be fed all-seed diets likely has its basis in two facts. First, birds are uniquely adapted to eat seeds and nuts. They are able to effortlessly crack even the hardest shells and extract the tender insides. Second, birds love seeds.

If birds love seeds and are engineered to eat them, doesn't it follow that they should be eating seeds? You might think so, but that's just not the case. You have to remember that the nutritional needs of birds in the wild may well be quite different from those of our own pet birds, living in luxury in our homes. One thing the experts can say for certain about all-seed diets is that they will make most birds sick over time, denying them the nutrients they need for long-term survival and weakening them to the point where other diseases find it easy to take hold. The fact that they can survive at all on such diets is testament to the toughness of birds.

You'd think birds would know what's good for them, wouldn't you? After all, most pet birds are very intelligent. So are you, but I bet that hasn't stopped you from eating things you know aren't good for you just because they taste good. In the case of birds, seeds are the equivalent of a greasy burger. Junk food. And too many pet birds (and people) are junk-food junkies.

The trend in recent years has been toward pelleted diets, and pet birds are healthier than ever before as a result. Pelleted diets are readily available from many reputable manufacturers and can be purchased from any good pet store or from many veterinarians who work with birds.

Pelleted food is a blend of grains, seeds, vegetables, fruits and various protein sources. Manufacturers mix the ingredients and then either bake and crumble them or extrude them, ending up with pellets of a proper size for any given species (large pellets for large birds, small pellets for small birds).

This process produces a food that has a definite and huge overall advantage to the "smorgasbord" way of feeding -- the bird cannot pick out his favorite foods and ignore the rest. Pellets also are convenient for bird owners. These commercially prepared diets are easy to buy, relatively inexpensive (definitely so when you consider the veterinary trips they prevent), and store nicely in a cool, dry place.

Pelleted foods should be the foundation of your bird's diet, but they're not enough. Your bird also needs a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, along with other "people foods" such as pasta, eggs, breads, rice and unsalted nuts in their shells. Skip the guacamole, though, because avocados can be a deadly treat for birds. Excessively fatty foods should be avoided, too. Most pet birds are perch potatoes, prone to obesity.

In addition to rounding out a commercial diet, fruits, nuts and other people food gives your bird something to keep him occupied and entertained. To that end, leave fresh food as "au naturel" as possible. Clean it, of course, but make your bird work some to eat it. Just be sure pellets and fresh water are available at all times.

Do you really need to deny your bird a treat as appreciated as seeds? The phrase "all things in moderation" definitely applies when it comes to seeds. Given in small amounts, seeds are a wonderful way to help teach your bird tricks or reward him for good behavior. But they should be a treat, not a staple, to ensure proper nutrition for your bird.

PETS ON THE WEB

Ferrets are an ever more popular pet, even in places where they are illegal, such as California. (Isn't it time to stop making criminals out of ferret lovers? When will the state figure out that California has bigger problems than contraband weasels?) A good reference site for both new and experienced ferret fans is Ferret Net (www.ferret.net), with basic health and behavior information, and instructions on how to join a ferret e-mail list. Included are links to breeders, shelters, publications and clubs, as well as to home pages celebrating ferret pets. As the ferrets say, "Dook! Dook!" (Translation: "Way cool!")

THE SCOOP

Flea-control products have gotten so good in recent years that it might be easy to forget one of the best ways to fight fleas doesn't cost anything more than your time, and it uses appliances you likely already have: a washing machine and a vacuum cleaner. Washing pet bedding on a weekly basis along with thoroughly vacuuming areas where pets hang out is a great way to rid your house of any adult fleas, larvae or eggs. An added benefit: Keeping pet areas clean keeps pets cleaner. Just make sure any pet beds you buy are completely washable or have zip-off covers that are.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: What is the largest breed of cat? I understand cats don't range in size very much, but are there any domestic cat breeds that are larger than normal? -- B.C., via the Internet

A: While you'll never see a pet cat as big as a St. Bernard, there are a few breeds that definitely warrant the heavyweight category. Although most healthy cats -- pedigreed and not -- weigh between 8 and 12 pounds, some of the big cat breeds range between 15 and 20 pounds, especially for the males. Now (BEGIN ITAL) that's (END ITAL) a cat who'll keep your lap warm on a winter night!

The biggest domestic cat is thought to be the Siberian, with some males topping 20 pounds. It's a pretty rare breed, however, so if you're looking for maximum cat, you might want to consider the Maine coon or maybe the Norwegian forest, both a good longhaired chunk of cat. Other longhaired cats with an above-average size include the ragdoll, Turkish van and American bobtail. For a lot of cat without the fur, consider the British shorthair, Scottish fold, American shorthair and the chartreux. The large cats are generally fairly easygoing in temperament and more laid-back than many other breeds.

Q: Have you any tips on taking pet pictures? All our dog's pictures have him looking like a red-eyed devil. -- U.D., via the Internet

A: I can proudly say that after 20 years of trying (and heaven knows how many rolls of film), I now take a pretty decent pet picture. Here are a few tips that might help you:

-- Head outdoors. Natural light (early morning is best) avoids the dreaded red-eye shot, where the flash makes your beautiful pet come out as a monster. Taking pictures outside gives your new pet a more natural, healthy look.

-- Get down and get close. If you want a good pet picture, you're going to have to go where your pet is -- on the ground. Shoot from below your pet's eye level and zoom in as closely as you can for good detail. If getting down isn't something your back will tolerate, bring the pet up. Have someone hold him, which will have the added benefit of keeping him still, or put him on an elevated surface, such as an outdoor table.

-- Watch your backgrounds. I have a wonderful picture of my dear old dog Lance, gone more than a decade now. He's freshly groomed. He's standing perfectly. His ears are up, his mouth smiling, his eyes bright. And he has a telephone pole growing out of his back. Be sure you have an uncluttered background, so your pet can shine.

-- Be creative. If you want your pet to kiss your children, do as the pros do: Put a little butter on your children and let the pet kiss it off. Another professional's trick: Just before taking the picture, rattle keys, squish a squeaky toy or throw something in the air. Your pet will come to attention, splendidly.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600