Picture a perfect spring day: warm sun, light breeze, cottony clouds bright against a vivid blue sky. At Joe Carvalho's place, perched above the golf course in an area of million-dollar homes in the San Francisco Bay area, flamingos are visible through a bank of windows, their pastel pink a nice contrast to a well-manicured patch of lawn.

Flamingos? Isn't that a little kitschy for a million-dollar home? You look again, and then one of the birds you thought was plastic bobs its head, and another one stretches a stick leg forward into a graceful walk.

At the Carvalho home, you see, the flamingos are real. And so, too, are the storks, the cranes, an owl, a pair of Andean condors, and a flightless bird from New Zealand called a cassowary. Add a flock of raucous parrots to the mix, and you've got the heart and soul of Joe Carvalho's life and his business. His Friends of a Feather troupes, more than 200 birds and a handful of human performers, play to enthusiastic crowds in Europe, and at three Sea Worlds, two Busch Gardens and the newest hotel in Las Vegas, Mandalay Bay.

What makes the shows so spectacular is that the birds are loose -- free-flying and under voice control, 20 birds a show, seven days a week, five shows a day.

"I've always felt a bond with birds," says Carvalho, a lean, darkly handsome man for whom show-biz patter seems to come as easily as his love of birds. "The better the bond, the better the trust. I just love to see them fly."

He sees it daily, training his birds over the open space below his home. While the more unusual species, the storks and the condors, get shorter turns overhead, closely monitored, the parrots spend hours out and about. He brings them from their nighttime cages in two and threes and tosses them up, blue, yellow and red feathers flashing as the macaws spread their wings and fly.

"It's a very, very risky thing," says Carvalho, who doesn't recommend free-flying for pet birds. "Timing is everything in the training, and if your timing's off, you can lose a bird. You read them as well as you can, prepare them as well as you can."

"I've taken the risks, but I've also taken the losses. And I've been very fortunate -- 98 percent of the birds I've lost I've gotten back."

The risks seem worth it when the birds are aloft, so breathtakingly rare the chance to see such beauty in flight. He demonstrates their biddability with a pair of scarlet macaws named Thelma and Louise, although those are just their stage names -- they haven't been sexed and might not even be female. But it's good shtick, and the pair fly huge loops around the golf course, attentive even at a distance to the signals of Carvalho. He sends them around again and then waves them in, both landing gracefully on his arm and getting sunflower seeds for their reward.

Carvalho's is a seven-day-a-week job, hard work to be sure, all the caring-for and training, not to mention traveling and the challenges of running an international business. But he'd choose no other. He's happy with his birds, and his birds are happy with him.

"I'm blessed," he says. It's hard to argue with him.

PETS ON THE WEB

No matter your level of interest and expertise, if you like fish, you'll like Fish Link Central (www.fishlinkcentral.com). This well-organized site, suggested by a reader, offers information on all kinds of fish-keeping, from goldfish and guppies to the most elaborate saltwater reef systems and outdoor ponds. It also features plenty of fish pictures and links, along with chats and an ask-the-expert forum. Even if you're not that interested in setting up a tank of your own, you can have fun here, with fish e-mail postcards and a handful of computer games, such as fish concentration. The site also offers a goldfish you can "pet" with your mouse (once the program loads, the fish swims to the place you put your cursor, even jumping out of the bowl). Full of both FAQs and fun, Fish Link Central is one fine place for fish fans.

THE SCOOP

If you're feeding your bunny a diet of commercial pellets only, you're likely shortchanging his nutritional requirements. Rabbits need roughage to stay healthy over the long haul, and one of the easiest ways to put indigestible fiber in their diets is to allow them 24-hour-a-day access to grass hay such as oat or timothy. Not only is hay good for their bodies, it also helps with the boredom that's part of every caged animal's life. In addition, rabbit experts suggest adding a variety of fresh leafy vegetables to the diet, such as parsley, carrot tops, broccoli leaves and dandelion greens, along with other vegetables and fruits such as carrots, melons, apples or pears. Give fruits and veggies a good scrubbing before offering them to your pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am a dog person and am interested in joining a dating service geared to veterinary members. Do you know of a vet dating service? I am interested in dating someone who loves pets (especially dogs). -- D.N., via the Internet

A: Now here's an interesting opportunity for some entrepreneur. Perhaps I should suggest to my colleagues at the Veterinary Information network that they add the notation "available" or "not available" to their online veterinary locator service, VetQuest (www.vin.com/vetquest/vqpublic.html).

Believe me, you're not the first person to have this idea. You can go to any dog show, obedience or agility trial and bump into unattached people who would love to find another person who doesn't flinch at the idea of a stray dog hair on the butter cube from time to time. The supply of such people is sadly limited.

And think of the money you'd save. I think of the checks I write to my veterinarian as "the college fund" -- for his kids, not mine. I don't begrudge him a penny of it, however, for he's a wonderful veterinarian (and happily married, or I'd see about setting you up).

Long answer to a short question: No, I don't know of any dating services for hooking up pet lovers with veterinarians. I figure it's not that good of an idea anyway. With the luck most people (and when I say most people, I mean me) have with romance, the veterinarian that you (BEGIN ITALS)could(END ITALS) live with, you might not want treating your pets. And the one who's good for your pets might drive you crazy as a mate.

On the other hand, maybe you should start such a dating service. Or go to veterinary school. Then you'd find plenty of dog lovers eager to hook up with you.

Q: Are dogs supposed to get a new rabies shot each year? I was under the impression that it was a one-time deal until I received a postcard informing me otherwise. -- E.L., via the Internet

A: Your dog needs to be re-vaccinated at regular intervals determined by the local or state law in your area. While many places require vaccination every three years, others insist on an annual vaccination.

When it comes to rabies, the laws aren't really for your pet's benefit; they're for yours. While the risk of contracting rabies from your pet may be small, the disease is deadly if not caught early. People do die from rabies, which is why the law is so unforgiving on the topic of vaccinations.

If you have questions regarding the law in your area, call your local animal-control agency.

Incidentally, while the focus of rabies prevention has traditionally been on dogs, cases of feline rabies are not uncommon. Even if a rabies vaccine is not required by law in your area, public-health officials strongly urge vaccinating cats as well. And more and more places are requiring it.

The bottom line: Keeping your pets' rabies vaccinations current is just good common sense.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One thing I love about nice weather -- dog-washing moves outside for my two retrievers. No more drenched bathroom, soggy walls, shaking dogs and dripping paw prints in the house. All we need is a hose, shampoo and a warm, sunny day.

Please note, however, that the cold-water treatment is absolutely not for the oldest dog, Andy. He goes to a groomer every month, a dog-loving woman who characterizes herself as the Wizard of Dogs. And she truly is. She picks up Andy in her poodle-filled Saturn and treats him like the old prince he is, with perfectly warmed water and heated towels, sweet-scented soaps and a gentle combing of his long, thick hair. He doesn't go with her all that willingly, but feels good when he returns, his coat gleaming like spun silver.

Heather and Benjamin -- young, strong, and made for cold-water retrieving -- don't need such royal treatment. Indeed, most of their dousings are in nearby lakes and rivers, with the occasional trip to salt water. They like these dousings better than baths, by far, and they dry as glossy and clean as if they were sudsed.

They don't smell as nice as when soaped, though, so they still get the occasional bath -- for my benefit, more then theirs. After all, most dogs would be content to live their lives in dog-smell heaven. They like the way they smell.

But smell is important to us, too, and that's why baths are important. And so is a plan of attack.

First, set yourself up with proper equipment. If your flea-control regimen is working well, there's no need for flea soap. In fact, regular soap does just as good a job of killing fleas by washing them down the drain. The spot-on flea control Frontline works well for dogs who are bathed often or taken swimming frequently, but only if you apply the product a few days before or after a dousing.

Footing is important, inside or out. If you're using the bathtub, put down a mat or towel so your pet won't slip. Outside, the lawn will give plenty of traction. Make sure you rinse with clean water, which is easy to do with a hose. But inside, use a spray nozzle for the best results.

It's important to comb or cut out tangles or mats before the bath, since water only makes them worse. Put a pinch of cotton just inside your dog's ears and a drop of mineral oil in each eye to help keep out the soap. (Don't forget to take out the cotton later, or you'll be wondering why your dog is ignoring you more than usual.)

In working with dogs, I've found a good attitude can go a long way, but a bad one can go even further. If your dog knows how much you hate bath time, how will he get a positive or at least tolerable opinion of the process? Keep it light, and don't let up on the praise.

Wet your dog thoroughly, then start shampooing by working a complete ring of lather around the neck, cutting off the fleas' escape route to the ears. Work back from there, and don't forget to work some lather between your dog's toes, another favorite getaway for fleas. Rinse well, and put a towel over yourself while he shakes. Your dog can get more water off by shaking than you can by toweling, so let him have at it.

After your dog has shaken off everything he can, take him inside to dry. He won't pick up as much filth that way. Dogs who dry while clean stay cleaner longer, which means it'll be a while before either one of you has to consider dog shampoo again.

That's good news for my retrievers, who love every kind of water from a street puddle to an ocean, unless soap is involved.

PETS ON THE WEB

Thanks to all the readers who called or e-mailed me after my column that recommended PetsWelcome.com, a great online resource for travel planning with pets (www.petswelcome.com). PetsWelcome offers a fast, easy-to-use search engine that allows you to pinpoint pet-friendly lodgings in cities and towns of all sizes, including a few locales I tried that are little more than flyspecks on little-traveled state highways. The site also offers listings of emergency veterinary clinics, travel and medical tips and more. It's a nice, clean, useful Web site. Bookmark it!

THE SCOOP

A publication whose time has come? You bet! The Bark is a quarterly publication highlighting literary work about dogs. And if you haven't been paying attention, you'll be surprised at how much good stuff is out there now, from well-known writers who often grace the best-seller lists. I have completely devoured every back issue of The Bark I could find -- nothing else gets done when I get a new one until I've read every letter, essay, book review and interview. It's the best thing for dog lovers since ... well, dogs. Subscriptions are $12 for four issues from The Bark, 2810 Eighth St., Berkeley, Calif. 94710. Throw in an extra $2.50 and ask for a "Dog Is My Co-Pilot" bumper sticker, which already graces the back of my minivan. You can also check out a sample of The Bark's contents on the Web, at www.thebark.com.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I am glad you mentioned in your column about rabbits that the parent needs to take on the responsibility of pet ownership. I wish that before parents buy an animal for their child that they would stop and ask themselves: "Do I really like this animal? Will I do what is necessary to give it a good life, even if it means having to restrain my child from it occasionally and spending money to give it appropriate health care?"

I feel that many parents selfishly get a child a pet to please the child and never give a thought about the animal's quality of life. I volunteer at a local shelter and have had nightmares over what I have seen. I have had parents bring in animals and use an excuse that their child just won't take care of it. Many times the pet is on its last legs and ready for the grave.

Two days before Christmas, a woman came in and dropped off an 8-year-old cocker spaniel that was having convulsions, and was severely dehydrated and totally unrescuable. The shelter vet had to put him down on Christmas Eve. The woman had told me that she needed to get rid of the old dog because they were giving her child a new puppy on Christmas.

I don't mean to upset you, but some parents just don't see that they are responsible for these animals. They have begun to look at them as toys for children.

So I am asking you to keep stating in your columns just how important it is for parents to be responsible, not only to teach their children how to care for a living creature, but also how to invest time into caring for the animal. The animal should become one of the family. That means everyone should love and care for it. -- Colleen, via the Internet

A: Your story about the poor cocker spaniel is horrible. But after all these years writing about pets, I must say that nothing surprises me. The Wall Street Journal recently had a front-page article about parents who were hoping the pet who'd been their four-legged "first child" would die so their two-legged children could have a puppy. Many of them decided to speed up the process, of course, by taking their once-prized pet to the veterinarian or the shelter.

It saddens me, not only on behalf of the animals, but for its effect on human society. Parents who consider animals no better than animated stuffed animals, to be thrown away when the novelty wanes, are missing the opportunity to teach their children important lessons about compassion.

As involved animal lovers, though, you and I need to remember that we tend to see the worst. Check out the next letter, also in response to my rabbit column, for a more uplifting perspective on children, parents and pets.

Q: I am 11 years old. When you say children shouldn't have rabbits, do you mean toddlers, or young teens like me? I have a 7-month-old Dutch rabbit, and he is as friendly as can be. Cricket is under my care only, unless I have to go somewhere.

I have read three books about rabbits (I am now reading one "Watership Down"). I know a lot about rabbits, and I know how to handle rabbits because Cricket tells me by purring like a kitten. Please note that this is my first rabbit, and I have not come to have a happy bunny (by learning) from past mistakes. My dad even says that Cricket is spoiled! -- Alaina, via the Internet

A: Alaina, what can I say? You're doing great. I can tell from your letter than you're a "natural" with animals -- responsible and caring. Cricket is lucky to have you. Keep up the good work.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Puppies grow up too soon, as anyone who has ever loved one can tell you. When your pup is grown you've lost not only some of the cuteness, but also a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get him off to a good start in life.

It's always easier to prevent problems than to try to fix them later, and one of the most important ways to do this is by socializing your puppy.

Introduce a puppy to all the new things you can -- people, places and other animals. When a puppy isn't exposed to new things, social development stops or even regresses. The goal of socializing is a confident, outgoing dog who isn't shy or aggressive. A good pet, in other words.

"But wait!" you say? "What about disease? My vet told me to keep my puppy at home until his last puppy shot. And you're saying I should go out? Is that safe?"

Well, your veterinarian is right. Your puppy is at risk for contracting diseases from other dogs before his full immunity is in place. This is why you shouldn't go anywhere where dogs you do not know hang out -- parks, dog events or pet stores -- until your veterinarian gives the go-ahead. But you should do some limited socializing, such as seeing friends.

Use common sense. Plan safe outings, and carry your puppy if you're not sure. And when that last puppy shot is in, at 14 to 16 weeks, pull out all the stops when it comes to socialization. A puppy class is a great idea at this stage.

Why take any chances at all? Because doing so is important. An unsocialized dog, whether fearful or aggressive, is at a high risk for ending up in a shelter, with little chance at being adopted again.

We ask a lot of our dogs, and we owe it to them to help them learn what's required of them. We ask them to live peaceably in human company, and we expect them to be docile with people who are outside their pack. We ask, too, that they get along well with others of their own kind, both in the family and at parks. We ask that they abide the presence of a competing predator (the cat) and ignore what any wolf knows is good eating -- rabbits, birds and other smaller animals (even though we call them pets). And we ask them to be as mobile as we are, taking them on walks, on trips short and long, and even on airplanes.

Dogs are genetically predisposed to have more potential to become part of human society than wolves or coyotes, but it's not always easy for them. Dogs are wolves, after all, at heart. When you give your pup an understanding that living with humans means new adventures not to be feared, you are sharing a wonderful gift.

So socialize, and remember that the world is full of scary things, especially to a little puppy. At times, even the boldest of puppies is paralyzed with uncertainty when faced with something he's never seen before. Your response to his fear is very important.

Don't soothe your pup. Petting him and saying, "It's OK, baby" (or something similar) gives your puppy the idea that being scared is OK and that you're rewarding him for the behavior. Be matter-of-fact and encouraging.

Let him work it out, and when he takes that step forward, praise him for his courage. Then move on, one more step into your life together.

PETS ON THE WEB

Many Americans call them "parakeets," but the rest of the world calls them by their proper name, "budgerigars," or just "budgies." Whatever you call them, these charming little birds are too often overlooked by people awed by their bigger relatives, parrots. And that's a shame, because budgies have wonderful companion potential -- and some show such skills at talking they put the larger birds to shame. The Me & My Budgie Web site (www.budgies.org) does a fine job of celebrating the budgie, with pictures, stories, health and care information, and even tips on how to make safe, inexpensive toys. I love the take on the Best Viewed With Netscape logo, which on this site becomes Best Viewed With a Budgie. Cute!

THE SCOOP

If you're one of those people who delight in seeing (and petting) animals wherever you are, a nifty new book will make sure you get your fix when you're traveling and can't take your own pets along. "Purr-Fect Places to Stay: Bed & Breakfasts, Country Inns, and Hotels With Resident Cats" is Susan Bard Hall's guide to lodgings in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom made more homey by having a cat on the "staff." The book costs $19.95, plus $4.25 shipping and handling, from Letters Etcetera, P.O. Box 811280, Chicago, Ill. 60681-1280.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm allergic to cats and dogs, and I wonder if there is a pet that would not cause me to have to take drugs in order to adopt. I mean something of a furry nature, no scales, etc. Any assistance would be appreciated. -- D.W., via the Internet

A: I'm afraid a hypoallergenic pet that has fur simply doesn't exist, although some animals seem to be easier to live with than others for allergy sufferers. The poodle and bichon frise are two dog breeds that some people with allergies can tolerate, as are the Devon and Cornish rex cats. Cats cause more problems generally than dogs do. Some people who can live with dogs can't manage to stay sniffle-free around cats.

Still, some people live with both furry pets and allergies, and if you're considering doing so -- or struggling with the situation already -- your first step is to find an allergist who doesn't greet you with, "First, find new homes for your pets." For some people, that unfortunately becomes the ultimate -- and only -- resolution of the problem. But living without pets needn't be the starting point for attacking animal allergies. It's your life, after all.

Don't neglect your allergies. Working with an allergist to get them under control may give you enough "breathing room" to make life with a pet bearable. Remember always that allergies and asthma are serious health problems, not to be taken lightly. I know you don't want to take medications, but they certainly should be considered and may help immensely.

Another survival strategy is to establish your bedroom as an allergy-free zone. More than one-third of our lives is spent sleeping, and so making that time less stressful for the body is very important. Close off your bedroom and reduce dust-collecting surfaces by removing carpets and rugs, wall hangings, stuffed animals and collectibles from the room. Invest in an air cleaner and keep air ducts and ceiling fans clean. Banish feather pillows and down comforters. Use zippered, dustproof covers on the mattress and pillows. Combat dust mites by washing bedding frequently in hot water.

Make the bedroom completely off-limits to pets at all times. Although many pet lovers enjoy the warmth of pets on the bed, keeping the bedroom "allergy-free" is probably a necessary compromise for allergy sufferers.

Keeping pets clean and well-groomed will also help. The best situation is for a non-allergenic member of the family to take over these pet-care chores. (Specifically for cat-lovers: Studies show weekly bathing of your cat in clear water helps keep down the allergy levels -- and adds a level of excitement to your otherwise humdrum life, as well.)

And finally, keep an eye on the news. Some exciting medications are on the horizon that may help when and if they're finally approved.

Q: I have a cockatiel. When I bought it, I was told it was a female, but someone told me that it's a male. How can I tell the difference? -- C.B., via the Internet

A: If your cockatiel is of the common gray variety, it's pretty easy to figure out. In males, most of the head is bright yellow -- crest, throat, face and forehead -- and the cheeks have a bright orange patch. In females, the yellow areas are smaller, and the orange patch is dull in hue. Males also have more white on their wings, while the female's tail feathers are spotted and barred.

This is fine if your bird is an "ordinary gray," but if she (or he) is not, you've got a problem. If you have a cockatiel that's of a variety with some of the more unusual color patterns, you probably won't be able to tell a male from a female without the help of blood testing, which can be performed by a veterinarian.

Both males and females cockatiels are equally fine companions, although the male is thought to be a better whistler. A lot of folks will never know or care about the gender of their bird and will love them all the same.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600