Puppies grow up too soon, as anyone who has ever loved one can tell you. When your pup is grown you've lost not only some of the cuteness, but also a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get him off to a good start in life.

It's always easier to prevent problems than to try to fix them later, and one of the most important ways to do this is by socializing your puppy.

Introduce a puppy to all the new things you can -- people, places and other animals. When a puppy isn't exposed to new things, social development stops or even regresses. The goal of socializing is a confident, outgoing dog who isn't shy or aggressive. A good pet, in other words.

"But wait!" you say? "What about disease? My vet told me to keep my puppy at home until his last puppy shot. And you're saying I should go out? Is that safe?"

Well, your veterinarian is right. Your puppy is at risk for contracting diseases from other dogs before his full immunity is in place. This is why you shouldn't go anywhere where dogs you do not know hang out -- parks, dog events or pet stores -- until your veterinarian gives the go-ahead. But you should do some limited socializing, such as seeing friends.

Use common sense. Plan safe outings, and carry your puppy if you're not sure. And when that last puppy shot is in, at 14 to 16 weeks, pull out all the stops when it comes to socialization. A puppy class is a great idea at this stage.

Why take any chances at all? Because doing so is important. An unsocialized dog, whether fearful or aggressive, is at a high risk for ending up in a shelter, with little chance at being adopted again.

We ask a lot of our dogs, and we owe it to them to help them learn what's required of them. We ask them to live peaceably in human company, and we expect them to be docile with people who are outside their pack. We ask, too, that they get along well with others of their own kind, both in the family and at parks. We ask that they abide the presence of a competing predator (the cat) and ignore what any wolf knows is good eating -- rabbits, birds and other smaller animals (even though we call them pets). And we ask them to be as mobile as we are, taking them on walks, on trips short and long, and even on airplanes.

Dogs are genetically predisposed to have more potential to become part of human society than wolves or coyotes, but it's not always easy for them. Dogs are wolves, after all, at heart. When you give your pup an understanding that living with humans means new adventures not to be feared, you are sharing a wonderful gift.

So socialize, and remember that the world is full of scary things, especially to a little puppy. At times, even the boldest of puppies is paralyzed with uncertainty when faced with something he's never seen before. Your response to his fear is very important.

Don't soothe your pup. Petting him and saying, "It's OK, baby" (or something similar) gives your puppy the idea that being scared is OK and that you're rewarding him for the behavior. Be matter-of-fact and encouraging.

Let him work it out, and when he takes that step forward, praise him for his courage. Then move on, one more step into your life together.

PETS ON THE WEB

Many Americans call them "parakeets," but the rest of the world calls them by their proper name, "budgerigars," or just "budgies." Whatever you call them, these charming little birds are too often overlooked by people awed by their bigger relatives, parrots. And that's a shame, because budgies have wonderful companion potential -- and some show such skills at talking they put the larger birds to shame. The Me & My Budgie Web site (www.budgies.org) does a fine job of celebrating the budgie, with pictures, stories, health and care information, and even tips on how to make safe, inexpensive toys. I love the take on the Best Viewed With Netscape logo, which on this site becomes Best Viewed With a Budgie. Cute!

THE SCOOP

If you're one of those people who delight in seeing (and petting) animals wherever you are, a nifty new book will make sure you get your fix when you're traveling and can't take your own pets along. "Purr-Fect Places to Stay: Bed & Breakfasts, Country Inns, and Hotels With Resident Cats" is Susan Bard Hall's guide to lodgings in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom made more homey by having a cat on the "staff." The book costs $19.95, plus $4.25 shipping and handling, from Letters Etcetera, P.O. Box 811280, Chicago, Ill. 60681-1280.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm allergic to cats and dogs, and I wonder if there is a pet that would not cause me to have to take drugs in order to adopt. I mean something of a furry nature, no scales, etc. Any assistance would be appreciated. -- D.W., via the Internet

A: I'm afraid a hypoallergenic pet that has fur simply doesn't exist, although some animals seem to be easier to live with than others for allergy sufferers. The poodle and bichon frise are two dog breeds that some people with allergies can tolerate, as are the Devon and Cornish rex cats. Cats cause more problems generally than dogs do. Some people who can live with dogs can't manage to stay sniffle-free around cats.

Still, some people live with both furry pets and allergies, and if you're considering doing so -- or struggling with the situation already -- your first step is to find an allergist who doesn't greet you with, "First, find new homes for your pets." For some people, that unfortunately becomes the ultimate -- and only -- resolution of the problem. But living without pets needn't be the starting point for attacking animal allergies. It's your life, after all.

Don't neglect your allergies. Working with an allergist to get them under control may give you enough "breathing room" to make life with a pet bearable. Remember always that allergies and asthma are serious health problems, not to be taken lightly. I know you don't want to take medications, but they certainly should be considered and may help immensely.

Another survival strategy is to establish your bedroom as an allergy-free zone. More than one-third of our lives is spent sleeping, and so making that time less stressful for the body is very important. Close off your bedroom and reduce dust-collecting surfaces by removing carpets and rugs, wall hangings, stuffed animals and collectibles from the room. Invest in an air cleaner and keep air ducts and ceiling fans clean. Banish feather pillows and down comforters. Use zippered, dustproof covers on the mattress and pillows. Combat dust mites by washing bedding frequently in hot water.

Make the bedroom completely off-limits to pets at all times. Although many pet lovers enjoy the warmth of pets on the bed, keeping the bedroom "allergy-free" is probably a necessary compromise for allergy sufferers.

Keeping pets clean and well-groomed will also help. The best situation is for a non-allergenic member of the family to take over these pet-care chores. (Specifically for cat-lovers: Studies show weekly bathing of your cat in clear water helps keep down the allergy levels -- and adds a level of excitement to your otherwise humdrum life, as well.)

And finally, keep an eye on the news. Some exciting medications are on the horizon that may help when and if they're finally approved.

Q: I have a cockatiel. When I bought it, I was told it was a female, but someone told me that it's a male. How can I tell the difference? -- C.B., via the Internet

A: If your cockatiel is of the common gray variety, it's pretty easy to figure out. In males, most of the head is bright yellow -- crest, throat, face and forehead -- and the cheeks have a bright orange patch. In females, the yellow areas are smaller, and the orange patch is dull in hue. Males also have more white on their wings, while the female's tail feathers are spotted and barred.

This is fine if your bird is an "ordinary gray," but if she (or he) is not, you've got a problem. If you have a cockatiel that's of a variety with some of the more unusual color patterns, you probably won't be able to tell a male from a female without the help of blood testing, which can be performed by a veterinarian.

Both males and females cockatiels are equally fine companions, although the male is thought to be a better whistler. A lot of folks will never know or care about the gender of their bird and will love them all the same.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The number of people who travel with their dogs is growing, and so too are the options for pets on the road -- from "ruffing it" at campgrounds to enjoying fabulous four-star hotels. There's never been a better time to pack your pet and go.

Still, traveling with a dog is no picnic sometimes. Finding lodgings can be difficult; luxurious inside dining is largely sacrificed in favor of eating takeout in the car or a park; and spending hours tripping through quaint shops becomes a thing of the past when a dog is waiting. Traveling with dogs offers some challenges, but nearly all are surmountable with common sense and creativity.

The travel industry wants to help, that's for sure. Several books cover traveling with dogs, and some travel agents have carved out a niche booking canine-centered vacations. People in the travel industry have learned that many people with dogs are exceptionally grateful for pleasant accommodations, and so return to the places that treat them well year after year. As a result, some entrepreneurs have gone to great lengths to attract dog lovers: You can even find canine camps where people do nothing but share a slice of "dog heaven" with their pet for a week or more at a time.

Is your pup ready to hit the road? As with all other training, ending up with a good car-rider starts with molding correct behavior when your dog is a puppy. No matter how cute or how small, do not allow your pup to ride in your lap, and don't make a fuss over him while you're driving. On short neighborhood trips, ask your pup to sit quietly, and praise him for proper behavior.

Traveling with your dog in a crate is often easier and definitely safer. Depending on the size of your dog and the size and shape of your car, a crate may not be feasible. It should always be considered, though, especially for those dogs who are so active they distract the driver. Collapsible crates are available for easy storage in the trunk when not in use.

Another safety tool is a doggy seat belt, which fits into a standard seat-belt buckle and then attaches to a harness on the dog. Also good for keeping a pet in place -- if you have a station wagon, van or SUV -- are widely available metal barriers that fit between the passenger and cargo areas.

If your dog's only exposure to riding in a car is an occasional trip to the veterinarian's, don't be surprised if he's not the most easy of riders. Try to build up his enthusiasm by increasing his time in the car and praising him for his good behavior. The first short trips should be to pleasant locations, such as parks.

Dramamine prevents car-sickness in dogs as well as people, but other remedies are also available (talk to your veterinarian). A dog-show trick: Your dog should travel on little or no food and should get a jelly bean -- or any other piece of sugar candy, except chocolate -- before hitting the road. The sugar seems to help quell queasiness.

Because most of the problems come from fear, not motion sickness, building up your pet's tolerance for riding in a car is a better long-term cure than anything you could give him.

On the road, remember to stop at regular intervals, about as often as you need to for yourself, for your dog to relieve himself and get a drink of fresh water. And always keep your dog on a leash for his own safety.

With a few short practice trips and some training, you'll be on the road in no time.

THE SCOOP

Doing some research beforehand can help make traveling with your dog easier and more enjoyable for you both. A good resource is "On the Road With Your Pet," a Mobil '99 travel guide from Fodor's ($15). After some basic tips from a dog trainer, the guide rates more than 4,400 places to stay in the United States and Canada. My favorite guides for traveling with dogs are those in the "Dog Lover's Companion" series from Foghorn Press, with editions for California, Florida, Boston and Atlanta. The Companions are about more than places to stay; they're about places to go, with well-researched listings of parks, beaches and trails your dog will love.

PETS ON THE WEB

Anyone with a pet and an e-mail address has by now heard the false warning that Febreze, a new odor-removing product, is lethal to pets. I get three or four of these "warnings" every day, forwarded by well-meaning animal lovers. Problem is, there's no evidence that the warnings are true. The ASPCA's National Animal Poison Control Center has put out a statement to that effect on its Web site (www.napcc.aspca.org/febreze.htm), and manufacturer Procter & Gamble is likewise trying to spread the word (www.febreze.com, click on "pet safety").

Febreze is safe to use around dogs and cats, although P&G does advise removing birds from any area where the product is used, until it has dried and been aired out. That's the standard advice for any cleaning product, incidentally, because of the hypersensitivity of avian respiratory systems. If you've spread this "warning," then sharing the new information is the right thing to do.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We left our dog at the kennel while on vacation, and when we came back he was sick with kennel cough. We're furious and don't intend to use that kennel again. We think they should refund our money. Don't you? -- S.H., via the Internet

A: While I'm certainly sorry your dog got sick, he'll likely be over it by the time you read this. And no, you really can't blame the kennel any more than you can blame a day-care center for all the colds kids pick up there.

Boarding kennels do take a lot of heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that is indeed as contagious as sniffles in a day-care center. Some kennel operators find the name a little pejorative, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, "canine infectious tracheobronchitis," or even "bordetella," after its most common causative agent.

And maybe that's fair. Dogs can pick up kennel cough any place they come into contact with a dog who has it, and that means anywhere: parks, dog shows, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office, or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society. These are all possibilities for infection.

Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. For most dogs, the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks. Others, especially yappy dogs who keep the airways irritated, may develop an infection that requires antibiotics. See your veterinarian for advice. He may recommend nothing more than Robitussin and rest.

While not completely effective against the disease, a vaccine is available against the ailment. The rub: It requires two doses a couple of weeks apart, which means you need to call your veterinarian at least three weeks before a kennel stay or a trip to any dog-dense area.

Q: I am wondering if there are such things as toy cats, like toy dogs. I like cats that are small and stay that way. Is there any cat like this, a kitten and stays that way? Thanks. -- A.C., via the Internet

A: While no breed of cat could really be called a "toy," a few do remain relatively small throughout their lives. The smallest breed of cat is probably the Singapura, a Southeast Asian breed that resembles the Abyssinian but is a couple of pounds lighter.

In general, the "Oriental" breeds are among the smaller and lighter cats you can find, including such cats as the show Siamese, Abby, Burmese and the kinky-coated Rexes, Devon and Cornish. Although these cats might not be as small as you were hoping to find, they're petite in comparison to such bruisers as the Maine Coon and Norwegian Forest cats.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

On behalf of the media, I wish to apologize to rabbits everywhere.

About the only time we ever mention rabbits is around Easter, when we either do pieces on how wonderful bunnies (along with chicks and baby ducks) are as gifts, or share the local shelter's warning that pets are bad ideas as gifts.

I've never done the former story, but I've written plenty about the latter. Bunnies, chicks and baby ducks should never be given as Easter gifts, at least not without plenty of thoughtful consideration beforehand. Too many times the formerly "fluffy" or "fuzzy" grow up and are seen as a messy inconvenience. Or they become the rope in an ongoing tug-of-war between the child who wanted the pet and the parents who insist the responsibility for the animal's care must fall on their son or daughter.

In either scenario, it's the pet who loses, ignored in a rarely cleaned cage, or dumped on the nearest shelter or rescue group.

My good deed done with such warnings, I then ignore rabbits until Easter rolls around again, as will most of the media. But our Easter efforts leave the story half-told, and for that, I'm sorry. The other half of the story? What most people don't know about pet rabbits, and should.

Rabbits make wonderful pets -- for adults! Bun-lovers know the animals are playful, quiet, clean and affectionate. The time and effort you put into getting to know your pet pay off many times over. They're perfect for apartment dwellers and suburbanites alike.

What they're not perfect for is children. Parents buy rabbits thinking the animals will consent to lots of quiet lap-sitting, serving as sort of a warm, stuffed animal with a twitching nose. But rabbits aren't like that. The younger ones are very active, and even the adults love to kick up their heels in bursts of bunny joy.

Rabbits are also too fragile for many children, especially younger boys and girls who cannot be relied on knowing how to handle a pet correctly. If you pick up a rabbit without properly supporting his legs, he may panic and kick out, a move that may not only scratch a child but could break the bunny's back.

Guinea pigs and rats are better pets for children, but these, too, need strong parental oversight to ensure they're being well-cared-for, of course -- not fights over "responsibility," but guidance. The ultimate responsibility for any child's pet falls on parents, who must also ensure that the animal is being respected and cared for. This model teaches children another important lesson: compassion.

Another misconception about rabbits is that an outside hutch is the best place to keep one. Not so! Outside rabbits are especially vulnerable to predators, and can be frightened to death even by killers who cannot get close enough to bite. Outdoor rabbits are especially prone to neglect -- out of sight, out of mind -- and are bored to bunny tears in their small enclosures.

You'll get the most out of sharing your life with a rabbit if you bring him inside and make him a part of that life. Most rabbits can be litterbox-trained, and what few droppings that do stray are small, neat, and easily cleaned up with a handheld vac.

Are you missing out on the pleasure a pet rabbit could bring to your life? Visit your local shelter and find a "second-chance" rabbit who's right for you. If the shelter doesn't have any for adoption, ask them for a referral to a local rabbit rescue group.

Kind beings that they are, rabbits will accept my apology, I'm sure, and my promise to write about them more frequently than once a year.

PETS ON THE WEB

No group has been more influential in bringing rabbits out of hutches and into homes than the House Rabbit Society. The HRS homepage (www.rabbit.org) gets better every day, with up-to-date information on health, nutrition, training and problem-solving. The site also has referrals to rabbit rescue, too. Another Web site worth visiting is the whimsical Bunny Thymes newsletter (www.cyberus.ca/(tilde)buntales/index.html). While not as in-depth as the HRS site, Bunny Thymes offers some thoughtful reading for rabbit fans.

PET TIP

Wrapping has a way of making anything look elegant, although some folks might think of pretty packaging as a bit of overkill for a bag of old-fashioned clothespins my friend Ellen gave me. But Ellen and I know better. The humble wooden fasteners are a real find in an age where clothes dryers have put even their metal-spring successors largely out of business. The Penley Corp. of West Paris, Maine, still makes old-fashioned clothespins, used mostly for crafts these days. If you ever played with them as a child, you already know they're great toys, but you may not know they're not fun only for children. Old-fashioned wooden clothespins make wonderful playthings for pets such as rabbits and parrots. The pins are fun for them to play with and chew on, and are inexpensive to replace. They're well worth searching out.

Q: I am getting a new puppy in two weeks and want to save my home. I am looking for a 6-foot-wide tension gate. I have tried pet stores and baby stores. Some stores have them that length, but they screw into the wall (I have wood that I do not want to destroy). Or the gates are only 2 feet tall, which won't work with a soft-coated wheaten terrier for very long. If you have any ideas, I would appreciate them. -- Susan, Indianapolis

A: The best selection of baby gates I know of is in the Doctors Foster and Smith catalog (800-826-7206; www.drsfostersmith.com) -- and even they don't have a tension gate that will stretch across 6 feet. I'm no engineer, but having dealt with enough dogs and baby gates over the years, I'm guessing a tension mount doesn't work for an opening that large. The catalog does offer an attractive hardwood gate that would fit, although you would have to attach it to the woodwork.

You might also consider rethinking the space in which you'd like to confine your puppy, choosing instead an area where a baby gate would have to cover a standard door opening only (you'll find the widest choice of models in that size). Or you might consider a doorway where the mounting hardware won't be a problem.

Best wishes with your new puppy. The wheaten is one of my favorite breeds: handsome, good-natured and a lot less hardheaded than many other terriers.

Q: We are looking for kittens to buy for our grandmother. But there is a shortage and we are having trouble finding any -- and if we do they cost a lot of money. We are looking for two kittens from the same litter and we would like to get them locally. Do you have any suggestions? We are hoping to get them for her for Easter. -- K.S., Albany, N.Y.

A: How about for the Fourth of July instead? Or Labor Day? Kitten season is just getting under way now, with prospective "mom" cats howling for their toms through the spring air. In a couple of months, shelters will be awash in the results of these feline encounters -- more kittens than could ever be adopted, many of whom will have to be killed. The tragedy repeats every year, the summer rerun nobody wants to see. But that will continue until more people spay and neuter their pets.

For anyone looking to adopt a kitten, summer and early fall are the prime times. You'll find all the selection you could ask for, kittens in all colors and patterns, all anxious for loving homes.

I have to ask, though: Does your grandmother know about your plan? Pets should never be a surprise gift, because too often the recipient isn't interested in the responsibility they represent. Make sure your grandmother wants two playful kittens underfoot before you pick out any kittens.

My suggestion: If she really wants the kittens, give her a gift certificate to your local shelter, and in a couple of months, go with her and let her choose her own pets.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600