On behalf of the media, I wish to apologize to rabbits everywhere.

About the only time we ever mention rabbits is around Easter, when we either do pieces on how wonderful bunnies (along with chicks and baby ducks) are as gifts, or share the local shelter's warning that pets are bad ideas as gifts.

I've never done the former story, but I've written plenty about the latter. Bunnies, chicks and baby ducks should never be given as Easter gifts, at least not without plenty of thoughtful consideration beforehand. Too many times the formerly "fluffy" or "fuzzy" grow up and are seen as a messy inconvenience. Or they become the rope in an ongoing tug-of-war between the child who wanted the pet and the parents who insist the responsibility for the animal's care must fall on their son or daughter.

In either scenario, it's the pet who loses, ignored in a rarely cleaned cage, or dumped on the nearest shelter or rescue group.

My good deed done with such warnings, I then ignore rabbits until Easter rolls around again, as will most of the media. But our Easter efforts leave the story half-told, and for that, I'm sorry. The other half of the story? What most people don't know about pet rabbits, and should.

Rabbits make wonderful pets -- for adults! Bun-lovers know the animals are playful, quiet, clean and affectionate. The time and effort you put into getting to know your pet pay off many times over. They're perfect for apartment dwellers and suburbanites alike.

What they're not perfect for is children. Parents buy rabbits thinking the animals will consent to lots of quiet lap-sitting, serving as sort of a warm, stuffed animal with a twitching nose. But rabbits aren't like that. The younger ones are very active, and even the adults love to kick up their heels in bursts of bunny joy.

Rabbits are also too fragile for many children, especially younger boys and girls who cannot be relied on knowing how to handle a pet correctly. If you pick up a rabbit without properly supporting his legs, he may panic and kick out, a move that may not only scratch a child but could break the bunny's back.

Guinea pigs and rats are better pets for children, but these, too, need strong parental oversight to ensure they're being well-cared-for, of course -- not fights over "responsibility," but guidance. The ultimate responsibility for any child's pet falls on parents, who must also ensure that the animal is being respected and cared for. This model teaches children another important lesson: compassion.

Another misconception about rabbits is that an outside hutch is the best place to keep one. Not so! Outside rabbits are especially vulnerable to predators, and can be frightened to death even by killers who cannot get close enough to bite. Outdoor rabbits are especially prone to neglect -- out of sight, out of mind -- and are bored to bunny tears in their small enclosures.

You'll get the most out of sharing your life with a rabbit if you bring him inside and make him a part of that life. Most rabbits can be litterbox-trained, and what few droppings that do stray are small, neat, and easily cleaned up with a handheld vac.

Are you missing out on the pleasure a pet rabbit could bring to your life? Visit your local shelter and find a "second-chance" rabbit who's right for you. If the shelter doesn't have any for adoption, ask them for a referral to a local rabbit rescue group.

Kind beings that they are, rabbits will accept my apology, I'm sure, and my promise to write about them more frequently than once a year.

PETS ON THE WEB

No group has been more influential in bringing rabbits out of hutches and into homes than the House Rabbit Society. The HRS homepage (www.rabbit.org) gets better every day, with up-to-date information on health, nutrition, training and problem-solving. The site also has referrals to rabbit rescue, too. Another Web site worth visiting is the whimsical Bunny Thymes newsletter (www.cyberus.ca/(tilde)buntales/index.html). While not as in-depth as the HRS site, Bunny Thymes offers some thoughtful reading for rabbit fans.

PET TIP

Wrapping has a way of making anything look elegant, although some folks might think of pretty packaging as a bit of overkill for a bag of old-fashioned clothespins my friend Ellen gave me. But Ellen and I know better. The humble wooden fasteners are a real find in an age where clothes dryers have put even their metal-spring successors largely out of business. The Penley Corp. of West Paris, Maine, still makes old-fashioned clothespins, used mostly for crafts these days. If you ever played with them as a child, you already know they're great toys, but you may not know they're not fun only for children. Old-fashioned wooden clothespins make wonderful playthings for pets such as rabbits and parrots. The pins are fun for them to play with and chew on, and are inexpensive to replace. They're well worth searching out.

Q: I am getting a new puppy in two weeks and want to save my home. I am looking for a 6-foot-wide tension gate. I have tried pet stores and baby stores. Some stores have them that length, but they screw into the wall (I have wood that I do not want to destroy). Or the gates are only 2 feet tall, which won't work with a soft-coated wheaten terrier for very long. If you have any ideas, I would appreciate them. -- Susan, Indianapolis

A: The best selection of baby gates I know of is in the Doctors Foster and Smith catalog (800-826-7206; www.drsfostersmith.com) -- and even they don't have a tension gate that will stretch across 6 feet. I'm no engineer, but having dealt with enough dogs and baby gates over the years, I'm guessing a tension mount doesn't work for an opening that large. The catalog does offer an attractive hardwood gate that would fit, although you would have to attach it to the woodwork.

You might also consider rethinking the space in which you'd like to confine your puppy, choosing instead an area where a baby gate would have to cover a standard door opening only (you'll find the widest choice of models in that size). Or you might consider a doorway where the mounting hardware won't be a problem.

Best wishes with your new puppy. The wheaten is one of my favorite breeds: handsome, good-natured and a lot less hardheaded than many other terriers.

Q: We are looking for kittens to buy for our grandmother. But there is a shortage and we are having trouble finding any -- and if we do they cost a lot of money. We are looking for two kittens from the same litter and we would like to get them locally. Do you have any suggestions? We are hoping to get them for her for Easter. -- K.S., Albany, N.Y.

A: How about for the Fourth of July instead? Or Labor Day? Kitten season is just getting under way now, with prospective "mom" cats howling for their toms through the spring air. In a couple of months, shelters will be awash in the results of these feline encounters -- more kittens than could ever be adopted, many of whom will have to be killed. The tragedy repeats every year, the summer rerun nobody wants to see. But that will continue until more people spay and neuter their pets.

For anyone looking to adopt a kitten, summer and early fall are the prime times. You'll find all the selection you could ask for, kittens in all colors and patterns, all anxious for loving homes.

I have to ask, though: Does your grandmother know about your plan? Pets should never be a surprise gift, because too often the recipient isn't interested in the responsibility they represent. Make sure your grandmother wants two playful kittens underfoot before you pick out any kittens.

My suggestion: If she really wants the kittens, give her a gift certificate to your local shelter, and in a couple of months, go with her and let her choose her own pets.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you have a disease you don't want to be cured of, are you still sick? I ask, because I know I am a "petaholic," and it doesn't really much bother me.

I am in good company; that's part of the reason I don't worry. My friends, you see, are petaholics, too.

My youngest dog, Heather, has a best friend, a graceful Rhodesian ridgeback named Sirene. Luckily for the two dogs, I'm friends with Sirene's "parents," one of whom I meet frequently at a place where our dogs can run.

With the weather getting warmer, we've moved our dog play sessions to the cooler early morning. Only two things will pry me out of bed early: Taking the dogs to the park or going to a dog show. So you can see the signs of addiction have always been there.

But Sirene's "mom" really nailed it. We were walking around the dog park, her dog and my two retrievers running and playing, Andy trotting slowly along behind us. She and I were talking dogs, our dogs. As we walked we discussed their glossy coats, their diets, their fine, fit bodies. We talked about how good the walking was for Andy, closing in on age 13.

And then my friend paused.

"You know," she observed at last. "This walking is good for (BEGIN ITALS)us(END ITALS), too, but we never talk about that. And if we spent half as much energy on our own diets and fitness ..." She didn't need to complete the thought. The truth is, neither one of us is as fit and healthy as our dogs, and we both know it.

To be fair, my friend is a killer racquetball player, and I make it to the pool enough to be on a first-name basis with the health-club staff. But the fact remains: Our pets are better cared for than we are.

Perhaps, I told her, we should get someone like us to adopt us and keep us so well-cared-for.

And then there's the issue of food. Until my little Senegal parrot, Patrick, arrived in my life, the produce aisle of the supermarket wasn't a place I knew that well. And what I did buy mostly rotted in the refrigerator before I made that fabulous salad or prepared that wonderful low-fat veggie casserole.

But now I wander through the greens, wondering what Patrick will like, or even what he will eat at all. Avocados are deadly for birds, so they're off-limits, but hardly anything else is. The variety of fruits and vegetables I buy now is truly laudable. And little is thrown away anymore.

I'm going to argue that my pet addiction isn't a bad thing. The walking I do to keep old Andy limber isn't doing me any harm, and the lift I get from seeing the younger dogs play lasts for the rest of the day and then some. And it turns out I'm eating a lot more fruits and vegetables because of Patrick. If you're going to clean veggies for one, you might as well do it for two. Wouldn't you know it: We're all nuts for baby carrots, including the dogs.

I'm even losing weight, slowly, after years of struggle. The reasons, though, have as much to do with the dogs as with any health and attractiveness issues. You see, I know the brilliant and athletic Heather would be great at the sport of dog agility -- if only I could run with her around the obstacle course with any kind of grace and coordination.

Petaholism? It can't be a sickness if it makes you better. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. And besides, it's time to walk the dogs.

PETS ON THE WEB

Photographer Herman Krieger has put several of his photo essays on the Internet, and one of them, Mobile Veterinarian (www.efn.org/(tilde)hkrieger/vet.htm) is well worth a pet lover's time to visit. The images show the variety in a mobile veterinarian's day, with both office and stable visits, and animals large and small. It would be nice, though, if the site gave more information about each image -- nothing is offered except titles that range from the merely inane ("A Case of Bad Metabbylism" for a low-energy cat) to the downright appalling ("Asta la Vista Pluto" for a dog apparently about to be euthanized). Still, the pictures are handsome, and so's the veterinarian. House call, anyone?

PET TIP

While it might be hard to believe if you're in a place where snow's still on the ground, spring has officially arrived. Days that are warm -- but not yet hot -- lull many dog owners into thinking it's OK to leave their pets in the car while running errands. Be careful! Even a sunny day in the 70s or low 80s can turn a car into a death trap for your dog. Call it the "greenhouse effect" if it makes it easier to understand why this happens. All those windows on a car let heat come in and build to dangerous levels quickly -- and no, a cracked window isn't going to save your dog. Don't take a chance; leave your dog at home.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We need to be out of town in a few weeks, and I have recently acquired a bird that I have never had to worry about. Is it safe to leave him for about three days if we provide plenty of food and water? I don't have anyone to care for him while I am gone. -- Sandy, via the Internet

A: Let me put it this way: How would you like to be left with three days of food getting older by the minute and water that's developing a skin of slime, while trapped in a bathroom where the toilet doesn't flush?

In other words: No, it's not OK to leave a pet alone for three days. I know people do it, but they're taking big chances with their pets. Too many things can go wrong

If your bird is a finch or a canary, it can probably endure your being gone, but a parrot (and that category includes budgies and cockatiels) will keenly feel the social isolation. For all birds, food, water and cage papers need to be changed daily.

If you don't have a friend or neighbor to check on your pet at least once a day, call a pet-sitter.

Q: Can my cat eat a vegetarian diet? -- A.N, via the Internet

A: Not if you want him to stay healthy. Many people choose a diet devoid of animal-based proteins, and they want to extend their dietary choices to their cats. Fine for you, perhaps, but not for your cat, who is what the experts call an "obligate carnivore," meaning, cats must eat meat. (In contrast, dogs can and do survive on a meatless diet.)

No matter how opposed you may be to the idea of meat, your cat's body has a different opinion, and when your cat's health is at stake, you'd better listen.

Cats require more than a dozen nutrients including vitamins, fatty acids and amino acids that veterinary nutritionists call essential because they can't be manufactured in a cat's body and must be obtained from an outside source -- that is, from animal tissues. One of the most crucial of these is taurine, which if missing can cause serious health problems in your pet, including a deadly heart condition called dilated cardiomyopathy.

Veterinary cardiologist Dr. Paul D. Pion, my "Cats for Dummies" co-author and the discoverer of the link between taurine deficiency and heart disease, has a succinct way of describing the perfect diet for cats: Put a freshly killed rodent in the blender. Hit "frappe." Serve at room temperature.

In place of the rodent frappe, Pion recommends feeding foods from a variety of big-name manufacturers. He argues that these companies have proven their products through constant feeding trials. Look for the words "complete and balanced nutrition" on the label, as well as the statement that the product has been tested "for all life stages." The phrases come from the Association of American Feed Control Officials, a trade group that oversees industry standards.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

What should your dog be wearing around his neck? The choices used to be pretty basic: a buckled collar for everyday wear, and a slip or "choke" collar for outings or training. But things have changed in recent years. Basic canine neck gear remains the flat or rolled collar, in either leather or nylon, with the choice of a snap-together clasp added to the time-honored buckle. Every dog should have one of these, with license and ID tags attached.

But what about the slip collar? Some trainers are now violently opposed to them; they think such collars are cruel. Despite the controversy, the slip collar remains a useful training tool for many dogs, but only if put on and used correctly. If you're choking your dog, you're not using the collar correctly.

Often the problem is that the slip collar's not on right. With your dog sitting on your left, hold the collar in a "P" position, with the loop away from you and the "back" of the "P" on top. Slip it over your dog's head and it will be in perfect position. A session or two with a trainer will help you get it on right and help you learn how to use the collar in a correct way -- a fast tighten and a just as quick release.

The slip collar is probably the most common collar for training and control, but there are a few others you should know about. Again, working with a trainer will help you determine what will work best for your dog and how to use properly whatever collar you choose. Here's the rundown:

-- Partial slip collars are a hybrid between a flat collar and a slip collar. Designed to limit the "choking" action of a slip collar, they tighten, but only so much.

-- "Pinch" or "prong" collars are more popular than ever before, since they are an efficient way of dealing with well-muscled dogs like the Rottweiler. Like a partial slip, they can only be tightened so far, but unlike the partial, they have blunt metal prongs evenly spaced along the inside of the length of the collar. When tightened, these prongs press into the dog's neck.

These collars are controversial, in part because of their appearance. In the hands of a knowledgeable trainer, however, they can help with a powerful dog.

-- Head halters are another device with a public-relations problem, because they look like muzzles. They're not. They operate on the same principle that has worked for years with horses: Where the head goes, the body follows.

-- Harnesses are best left on little dogs, since they offer nothing in the way of control and give up a great deal in the way of leverage. Some small breeds, such as poodles, have a tendency toward "collapsing tracheas," where the rings of cartilage in the neck collapse temporarily when the dog is excited. These dogs are ideal candidates for harnesses, to relieve the pressure on their necks from pulling.

There are a couple of harnesses on the market that do offer some control, tightening around the dog's chest as he pulls. These are an option even for larger dogs. Your veterinarian may suggest a harness if your dog is of a breed known for neck or back problems, or if your dog has had a neck trauma or surgery.

Whatever collar you choose, remember that even the right training tool can be wrong if you aren't using it properly. If your dog is out of control, find a trainer to help you.

PETS ON THE WEB

Paris is proud: He's handsome, he's smart, and he's a poodle with an attitude and a Web page (www.havenhouse.com/poodle.htm) to prove it. He is also tired of being dissed. "You've gotten away with it for years," his Web site says. "It's just derogatory and it's mean ... in fact, we consider it a hate crime. So quit calling us 'froufrou' dogs! We are not a wimpy breed." Well, OK, Paris. The dog's page has a couple of other poodle links, most notably to the Poodle Museum. It's part of a poodle Web ring, too, so you can start with Paris and spend a whole day enjoying oodles of poodles.

PET TIP

When you consider the rain forests that many of them come from, it's no surprise that parrots need to get wet. It's good for their feathers and their mental health, as well. Use a spray bottle to mist your parrot every day, and give him a good drenching weekly with a sink or shower nozzle. Some parrot lovers share the shower with their pet, and that's not a bad idea, either, as long as your bird's not nippy. (Ouch!) To introduce your bird to misting, don't spray directly. Instead, point the spray bottle up so the mist comes down like rain. Once your bird is used to the sensation of being sprayed, he'll likely adore his daily dampening.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our cat has suddenly started spraying urine on the furniture. We've squirted him, spanked him and reprimanded him, but it doesn't help. I don't understand why he doesn't urinate all the time in the litter box. My husband says if it doesn't stop, the cat goes. Help! -- P.F., via the Internet

A: The application of urine to mark territory is different from the release of urine to eliminate waste from the body. The strategies for addressing spraying are different from those that you use in getting a cat to use a litter box. The first step in solving any behavioral problem is to make sure it's not a medical problem, so have your veterinarian rule out any problem such as an infection.

Although both male and female cats spray, unneutered males are the biggest offenders, followed by unspayed females in season. You didn't mention if your cat is neutered, but if he isn't, he should be. Neutering takes care of the problem in 90 percent of the cases if done before sexual maturity is attained, at about 6 months.

For those cats who don't respond to neutering, environmental stresses -- such as a new person in the house or a neighbor's cat in the yard -- may be triggering the spraying. Anti-anxiety drugs may help (again, talk to your veterinarian), as can cleaning sprayed areas thoroughly and covering them with foil to discourage fresh marking. (Cats dislike anything involving foil, and the sound of urine hitting it really annoys them.) Don't punish your cat for spraying, even if you catch him in the act. Doing so makes him even more insecure and more likely to mark.

Q: I have purchased a sun conure, and she seems to be a nice, lovable bird. The only problem is that she screeches a lot of the time. The only time she doesn't is when we put her in the dark. Any advice? -- B.E., via the Internet

Q: We just recently got a sun conure. It's a very pretty bird, but very loud! We have discovered by covering him in the early morning while we're getting ready does get him to quiet down. However, we can't keep him covered all the time. Any suggestions? -- E.R., via the Internet

A: Your letters came in within an hour of each other, and for the sake of your neighbors, I hope you're not living next to each other.

I have bad news for you: The bright and beautiful sun conure is one noisy bird, and to a certain extent you're just going to have to live with the din. Covering the cage or turning out the lights at night will keep your pet quiet while you're trying to sleep. You should also work to not reward the bird for noise with either positive (picking up the bird or giving it a treat) or negative (punishing the bird) reinforcement. Beyond that, you'll just have to learn to appreciate the sun conure for its bright color and charming personality.

The sun and other conures of the Aratinga group -- the jenday, golden-capped, mitred, red-fronted, dusky and white-eyed, to name a few -- can be very loud, but other conures aren't quite so vocal. The species of the Pyrrhura group -- the maroon-belly, green-cheeked and black-cap -- don't have nearly the volume of their flashy relations.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600