The Northridge earthquake that shook Southern California a few years back proved to be the catalyst for at least one positive event: It got Blake Donovan to thinking.

She then lived five miles from the quake's epicenter. Afterward, she realized how vulnerable pets were in a disaster, and how completely reliant they were on humans for survival.

"Pets are helpless to prepare for disasters or emergencies," she said. "They cannot store supplies or care for themselves if injured. That's the job of each responsible pet owner."

But even the most responsible pet owners, she knew, would have a hard time knowing how to prepare for the worst, even if they realized how important it was. So she drew on her broad training as an EMT, a police officer and a

veterinary technician and came up with her dream business, ResQPet. The company makes high-quality disaster preparedness kits designed to help dog and cat owners get through the critical early days of any emergency, when veterinarian help may be unobtainable.

"A friend's Rottweiler died in that earthquake," she said, "cut by the shards of a broken sliding-glass door. He bled to death. She freaked, didn't know what to do." If her friend would've had first-aid supplies and instructions, Donovan reasoned, the dog might have survived.

Donovan's own three pets had to be dug out of the rubble of her home. They all survived, and two of them are still with her: Maggie, an Old English sheepdog who just turned 18, and Buddy, an Amazon parrot. (Ever the soft touch for an animal in need, she has recently adopted a starving stray shepherd, whom she named Kirby because the dog reminds her of a vacuum cleaner when she eats.)

After the earthquake, Donovan started putting together disaster kits for friends. She then expanded, marketing mostly through her Web site (www.ResQPet.com), and an aggressive self-driven marketing campaign that has already netted her a mention in Dog Fancy magazine. She hopes to make the company do well enough to support a shelter someday, but in the meantime, she'd be happy to save a few lives here and there.

The kits are impressive, with top-quality supplies and two easy-to-follow first-aid manuals (one for dogs, one for cats) written by Donovan herself, who teaches pet first aid classes. First-aid supplies make up the bulk of the package, along with such gear as emergency water packets and purification drops, a muzzle, a space blanket and light-sticks. Organized into either a backpack or a duffel bag, the kits are bright orange and emblazoned with the company name. Kits for other animals are in the works.

The contents were approved by a veterinarian, and one chain, the Veterinary Centers of America, went so far as to endorse the kits and sell them in their hospitals. ResQPet has gotten a couple of bigger nibbles, too, from a huge pet-supply chain and a major pet-food company.

For all that, business has been depressingly slow. The kits are expensive, ranging from $45 to $95 -- quite reasonable when you consider the contents, but still a big hit to many wallets. It may not be the price that dampens interest so much as the desire we all have to pretend we'll never need to cope with the sorts of things in the news all the time -- hurricanes, tornadoes, earthquakes, floods and fires.

Donovan remains optimistic. "Most people realize emergency preparedness is a good idea," she says. "Few people have the time to do anything about it."

She's hoping many in that latter group will take the step toward preparedness and call ResQPet. (If you're among them, the toll-free number is (888) 738-7377.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Sure, that cage you got from the pet-supply store is fine, but have you ever thought your guinea pig or small rabbit might be happier in something bigger? The folks at the British Columbia SPCA do, and they've put some plans on their Web site to help. Building a Better Habitat (spca.bc.ca/habitat.htm) gives step-by-step instructions for assembling a large, inexpensive enclosure from commonly found materials: plastic sign board, wire mesh and masking tape. The pictures are clear and easy to follow for even the most fumble-fingered do-it-yourselfer. In a short time, your pet will have digs with room to roam.

PET TIP

If your veterinarian says your pet's too pudgy, don't forget to include treats when you're deciding what to cut down on. If you give treats to your dog several times a day, for example, you're adding practically another meal. Switch to smaller treats given less frequently; just because the box says "for small dogs" doesn't mean your overweight Labrador won't eat what's inside. Better still, substitute carrot sticks and pieces of rice cakes. Dogs snap them up every bit as eagerly as ready-made biscuits. As with people, eating right is only part of the puzzle when it comes to slimming down your pup. Start walking. It's good for you both!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We've heard recently that shots cause cancer in cats, and yet our veterinarian still sends us reminders to bring our cat in for boosters. We're thinking we're better off skipping it. We don't want to lose our cat to this. -- S.C., Sacramento, Calif.

A: You shouldn't skip your pet's vaccinations, but you're right to be concerned. "Vaccine-associated feline sarcoma" or "feline vaccine-site sarcoma" is the name given to tumors that pop up at vaccination sites, and they have indeed claimed the lives of many cats. No one is quite sure why this problem occurs, but the risk is low compared to the dangers of not vaccinating your cat -- risks not only to your cat's health, but also, in the case of rabies, to your own.

Feline specialists now recommend changes in the way vaccinations are handled. At your pet's annual examination, discuss which vaccines your cat really needs with your veterinarian. Your cat may not need to be vaccinated against feline leukemia, for example, if he's kept indoors and doesn't interact with other cats.

Ask your veterinarian to use single-dose vaccines and to follow recent recommendations on where to inject your cat (different locations for different vaccines). Make sure your veterinarian notes the sites in your pet's records, as well as information on the vaccines, such as the name of the manufacturer and the serial number.

Once your cat is home, remember to watch carefully for any lumps that may develop. A small lump immediately after vaccination is normal, but call your veterinarian if the lump grows, or if it persists beyond three months.

Vaccinations still prevent many times more deaths than they cause. Keep the risks in perspective, and continue to press your veterinarian for the most recent information available on keeping your cat in good health.

Q: I am seeking advice about cats who chew or eat woolen items. My beautiful 3-year-old female sealpoint Siamese is now relegated to a life of semiconfinement due to this habit. I previously found one article regarding this issue; however, I misplaced it, so know I'm not alone with this problem. She destroys clothing and fabrics, and she can find them anywhere. Help! -- L.M., Sarver, Pa.

A: Wool-chewing is a problem once thought to be a result of early weaning, but now believed to be genetic in origin. The so-called "Oriental" breeds, including the Siamese, seem to be affected most. Increasing fiber in your pet's diet by adding a teaspoon of canned pumpkin daily may help, as may offering substitute items to chew on, such as a dog's sheepskin toy. Behaviorists also suggest active play sessions to burn off excess energy.

You might also ask your veterinarian about the use of medications to help with your pet's behavior problems. Aside from these suggestions, keeping everything picked up and put away is your best bet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If a stray turns up on your back porch and you can't find an owner, or if you inherit an older cat from a relative or friend who has passed on, or if you end up with an extra cat for any other reason, you want to find the best home you can. And that can be difficult.

Adult cats can be very hard to place. They have the lowest rates of adoption for all animals at shelters. If you're patient and persistent, however, you may find a home. Here are some tips to follow:

-- Do everything you can to make the animal more adoptable. The pet has a better chance for adoption if her vaccinations are current, she uses her litter box reliably, and she's altered.

-- Ask a price. People show more respect for something they've paid for, and a price tag dampens the interest of profiteers, such as those who collect "free to good home" pets for sale to research labs or to people who train dogs for fighting. A good rule of thumb: Charge an amount sufficient to cover the cost of the spaying/neutering and vaccinations.

-- Don't lie about the pet's problems or why she's being placed. Although finding a new home for a pet with problems takes longer, you can usually still do so. But the person who gets such a pet without warning is likely to bring her back, take her to a shelter or give her away -- maybe to a horrible situation.

-- Spread the news. Make up fliers, and take out an ad in your newspaper and on the Internet. Post the fliers everywhere you can: bulletin boards at work, pet-supply stores and your veterinarian's office. Give some to your friends and family to post where they work, too. Talk up the cat (at least briefly) with everyone you know. Even people who don't like cats (or don't want one) may know someone who is looking for a pet. The more exposure you can get, the better. If a thousand people hear or read about the animal, you probably will get no interest from 999, but you need only one person to provide a good home for the cat. And that's the one you need to reach.

-- Ask lots of questions and verify that the answers are true. Don't forget to ask prospective adopters whether they've had pets before and what happened to them. Make sure you're dealing with people who realize that owning a pet is a long-term commitment. The person who has had a lot of pets who disappeared, died young or were given away is probably not your best choice. My favorite question: Who's your veterinarian? Someone who cannot at least name a vet or a veterinary hospital may have pets who don't go there very often.

-- Set a reasonable time limit for yourself to place the animal, and do everything you can during that time. If you cannot find a home, do not turn out the cat. Do not take the animal "to the country" or otherwise turn him loose to fend for himself. People who live in the country can't care for all the pets who are dumped there. The kinder folks take them to a shelter; others shoot them, poison them or drown them. Even in the "wilderness," the lives of feral cats are full of suffering, shortened by disease or accident. Don't put a cat through this horror: Take her to a shelter if you cannot keep her or find her a new home.

PETS ON THE WEB

Want a great way to get both you and your dog in shape and have a marvelous time doing it? Take up agility. Based loosely on English show-jumping, the sport won't stop growing, with more enthusiastic dog-handler teams in training than ever before. Dogs of all sizes and shapes, purebred and not, enjoy heading over and through the various obstacles, and they benefit from the time spent with their owners. One of the best spots on the Web to learn about agility is the Dog Patch agility page (www.dogpatch.org/agility). Clean and well-organized, the site offers articles, discussion groups and graphics of various courses, as well as links to other sites on agility and agility-trained dogs.

PET TIP

The "s" hooks given out with some pet ID tags are a royal pain. The hooks are hard to fasten correctly, even using pliers, and they always seem to be falling off the collar, giving up the tag or catching on something. A better choice for fastening tags is the split-ring. Many tag makers offer you a choice of fasteners, but if that's not the case, ditch the "s" hooks and head to the hardware store. Split-rings are available cheaply there, in the key section. (I like split-rings made for keys better, in fact, because they're generally sturdier than the ones that come with tags.) You don't have to break your nails to get tags (or keys) on these rings. Use a staple remover to pull them wide enough to slide on the tags.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We adopted a dog recently from the local shelter, and she's a sweetie. We do have one problem, though, and we need help because it's so disgusting. She eats out of the litter box. We've yelled at her and smacked her, but she just gets more crafty. What can we do to stop this? Yuck! --D.C., via the Internet

A: You're not alone in your disgust. Litter-munching dogs are a top-10 reader complaint, year in and year out. As incredible as the thought seems to humans, many dogs do indeed consider cat feces to be every bit as wonderful as dog biscuits -- they're drawn to the undigested protein.

Faced with constant supply and ready access, no dog can resist for long, which is why efforts to train a dog to leave the litter box alone are rarely successful. The better plan is to restrict access. You can do this in a several ways, and it doesn't hurt to experiment. What deters one dog may not stop another.

Changing the litter box location is probably the easiest and least expensive solution. It may be possible to find a spot too high for your dog to cruise. Barriers are another strategy. You can rig the door to the room containing the litter box so that it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. Another possibility is to install a cat-sized door in the bottom of the door to the litter-box room if your dog is medium-sized or larger. For small dogs, try a baby gate -- a cat can jump it, but a small dog can't. You can also try a covered litter box.

Whatever you do, make sure your cat is comfortable with the change, or chances are you'll end up with another equally disturbing problem: a cat who avoids the litter box.

Q: Our blue-and-gold macaw loves to fly. Since he's never out of the house, we don't see the problem in letting him fly. It's cruel to deny birds flight, and we hope more bird lovers will realize that. Will you spread the word? -- F.H., via the Internet

A: I'm afraid I can't. Even inside the house the dangers are too many for a flighted bird.

Flying is one of those things that adds to the incredible appeal of birds, their mystique and their wonder. We envy them, for only recently in human experience have we been able to fly. And let's be honest, blasting place-to-place inside a jet-propelled metal tube hardly has the same panache.

Not all pet birds should have their flight feathers kept short, just those who come out of their cages to interact with their owners. Finches and canaries are happier if not handled or allowed out, and their feathers should be left alone so they can fly in their cages for exercise.

But when it comes to most parrots, our homes are not safe for flighted birds. Any avian veterinarian can tell you about birds who have slammed into windows, or have landed in sizzling frying pans or boiling pots of water. Some have even flown into an open toilet and drowned.

Another problem with a flighted bird: Losing your pet is just one open window or door away.

Your bird can indeed have a happy, healthy life without ever taking to the air. Your bird's veterinarian or a reputable bird shop will be happy to show you how to trim wings, or do it for you if you'd rather not try it on your own.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

No matter how much you and your cat hate the idea, at some point in your pet's life, you're going to come home from the veterinary office with medication, and you're going to need to give that medication to your cat.

Is it easy? Not really. Is it necessary? You bet. Seeing your veterinarian and then not following through on care instructions is worse than a waste of money: It may be dangerous for your pet.

Most times you're dealing with a pill. You can try the Sneak Method, attempting to disguise a pill in a bit of something yummy in hopes that your pet doesn't notice the pill inside. Watch your cat carefully for the "spit-out" before considering the procedure a success -- it may not be. In fact, the Sneak Method works a lot better for dogs, who tend to bolt down their food, than for cats, who eat carefully, considering every mouthful. Sneaking a pill past your cat can be difficult.

The No-Nonsense Method is harder, but once you've mastered it, you will know for sure where the pill went. Take a firm but gentle grip on your cat's head from above, pry open his jaw with the index finger of your other hand, and press the pill far enough back on the tongue to trigger swallowing. Although veterinarians can make pilling a cat look like an easy, one-person job, you're likely to find the task easier at first if you have someone else hold your cat while you pill him.

Some people have good luck with "pill guns," plastic devices designed to accept a pill on the tip, press it to the back of your cat's tongue and release with a push on the plunger. Look for these in pet-supply stores or catalogs, or in the back of pet magazines.

The prize for the most ingenious method of pilling a cat has to go to the reader who long ago shared his Screen Door Method. He lifts his cat onto the screen, where the animal naturally reaches out and digs in claws. Once "hung" from the door by his own claws, the cat is in no position to fight, and pilling is fast and easy. It's sure to shorten the life of your screens, but if it works for you and your cat, so what?

For liquid medication, be sure your veterinarian sends you home with some large syringes without their needles. These are marked on the sides to make measuring easy, and they're easier at getting liquid medicine in the right place (an eyedropper can also work). Raise your cat's muzzle with a firm but gentle hold on the top of the head and lift the lip on one side. Ease the tip to the back of the throat and then release the liquid in a slow, steady motion. Your cat will swallow naturally.

For ear medication, put a large towel across your lap and draw up your pet, relaxing the animal with stroking and with soothing words. After your cat's relaxed, apply the ear drops, massaging the base of the ear gently. For eye medication, gently apply a line of medication from the tube across the length of the eye, being careful not to touch the surface of the eye. Try to hit drops squarely in the center. Close the lid for a couple of seconds to let the medication distribute evenly.

As with anything your pet would rather avoid, be patient, gentle and firm when giving medication -- and follow with praise. If you're having trouble medicating your pet, have your veterinarian walk you through it, or discuss alternatives. Whatever you do, don't leave those medications on the shelf. They're meant to be used!

A sad note: Longtime readers may remember my brother Pete's yellow Labrador, Max. The dog was the "first child" of Pete and my sister-in-law, Sally, and he was followed shortly by two-legged kids Kate and Steven. Max grew from a goofy, gangly puppy into the best "kid dog" I've ever known, quick with a slurpy kiss on a tear-stained face and tolerant of ear-pulls, tail-jerks and pony rides. A victim of cancer at the too-young age of 9, he's now teaching is family important lessons about the circle of life. The day after he died, my 7-year-old niece said she had felt him on her bed, protecting her as she slept. It didn't surprise me in the least: He was just that kind of dog.

PETS ON THE WEB

African Grey parrots are known to be among the best talkers around. But even for his species, Buba must be exceptional, with more than 200 phrases in his repertoire, including a handful in Hawaiian. The 11-year-old parrot lives there, no big surprise considering his vocabulary, where his day job involves shredding paper and erasing computer disks for Coconut Info Software. His Web site (www.dublclick.com/coconutinfo/buba.html) lists every word, phrase and sound effect Buba knows, with a few of them available as downloadable sound files, such as Buba asking "What's your ZIP code?" Don't miss the recording of the call from a "Tonight Show" staffer -- the bird has a career in show business ahead of him.

PET TIP

Stainless steel or high-impact plastic makes the best food and water dishes for pets -- easy to clean, unbreakable and resistant to scratches. They last forever, too. I'm still putting kibble in a stainless steel dish I bought 20 years ago. Forget cheap plastic. Some pets are allergic to the material, and the wear-and-tear a pet dishes out on these flimsies will leave scratches and tooth marks that will be hard to clean, and will provide a breeding ground for bacteria. Whether you choose high-impact plastic or stainless steel, remember to keep pet dishes clean. Wash them every day with a swipe of warm soapy water, and once a week, put them all through the dishwasher for a thorough, sterilizing clean.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My daughter got us a puppy for Christmas. He is supposed to be a golden and something else, and about 3 months old. I am a little concerned because he is losing his baby teeth. Is that normal? We did call the vet, and he said it was OK. What do you think? We had a golden retriever for 14 years, and I don't ever remember her losing her teeth like that. -- T.F., via the Internet

A: Your veterinarian is right. It's perfectly normal for your puppy to be losing his baby teeth. Puppies have 28 of those sharp little puppy teeth, and they're usually replaced by 42 permanent ones by the age of 4 months.

It's not unusual to overlook the loss of puppy teeth. Sometimes they're swallowed; others may land in the grass or somewhere else they'll be hard to spot. Sometimes, though, they're stubborn about leaving, hanging on even when their replacement has erupted. If you observe a double row of teeth, call your veterinarian -- the baby teeth have worn out their welcome and may need to be surgically removed.

Teething can be irritating or even painful for a pup. Be sure to provide lots of chew toys to help your pup through the process. Another aid is a damp washcloth, tied into a knot, frozen and then given to the pup to chew. The cold feels good on those gums!

Q: I thought catnip was supposed to make cats playful and silly. When our cat comes into contact with catnip, he gets so relaxed he rolls onto his back and just chills out. It's as if he goes into a daze: He rubs his face all over the toy, rolls on his back and zones out. Any signs of playfulness he was showing just disappear after he comes into contact with catnip.

It's the funniest thing to see, but I am wondering why it seems to have such a calming effect on him. Any idea? -- K.D., via the Internet.

A: Every cat reacts in his own way to catnip. Some will be giddy, some dazed, and a large percentage won't react at all. (Kittens under the age of 3 months are not affected.)

The ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed, with slightly more cats in the catnip fan club than not. Catnip -- (BEGIN ITALS)nepeta cataria(END ITALS) -- contains a substance called "nepetalactone" in its leaves and stems, and this is what sets cats off. Rolling, rubbing, leaping, purring and general uninhibited happiness are all normal for a few minutes after exposure. The "high" is harmless and nonaddictive.

Catnip is fairly easy to grow, as is another plant cats love, valerian. Be sure to protect young plants, or your cats will pull them up by the roots. Clip pieces from established plants for your cat, stuffing them into toys, rubbing them on cat trees, or just offering them plain.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600