Looking for a way to keep your dog occupied on those days when it's just too cold outside to play? Consider exercising his mind.

One of the biggest shames in all of dogdom is how few things most people teach their dogs. What many people don't realize is that training is a way of communicating with your dog, of sharing a common language. The more words you both know the meaning of, the more you are sharing your lives.

How many words can your dog know? A lot more than you can imagine, I'm guessing. Consider that dogs who help wheelchair users are routinely trained to perform dozens of different tasks -- more than a hundred in some cases. And if you argue that your dog is not as smart as a service dog, I'll argue back that even if he's only half as smart, he can learn a couple of dozen more things than he knows now.

Besides, tricks are great fun for any dog of any age. While canine whiz kids such as poodles and border collies will pick up things quickly, any dog will catch on eventually, if you're patient, consistent and encouraging. You can teach tricks one at a time or a couple at once, as long as you've time to practice each one a couple of times a day.

Some dogs are better at some tricks than others. A small, agile terrier may find jumping through hoops easier than a bulldog would. And a retriever is probably more willing to hold things in his mouth than is a Pekinese. A basset hound can probably roll over but may find begging a little hard, being a little top-heavy. So think about your dog's form and aptitudes before you start. You may notice something special your dog does that would be entertaining if you can get him to do it on command. You can. Give it a name, use that word when he's most likely to do his thing, and praise him for "obeying." He'll make the connection soon enough.

I did that with Benjamin, the big retriever, who makes a sound that's halfway between a bark and a howl when it's time for his breakfast. I called it "woo-woo" and started saying "woo-woo" just when I could see his mouth preparing to make this sound. When he did, high praise. Now he "woo-woos" on command.

You can dress up tricks a little, too, to make them seem more than they are. I was once at an event where a prize was given for the best dog trick. The winner had a Rottweiler who liked to jump in the air after soap bubbles, which wasn't that big a deal, really, except for the fact that the owner turned it into a trick that had the crowd roaring with laughter. The woman put a ballerina skirt around the dog's middle, with matching pink leg warmers on her back legs and a tiara on her head. She then put some "Swan Lake" in her portable stereo and starting blowing bubbles. The dog's leaps and turns were a million times funnier when so choreographed, and the pair won easily.

Start thinking about your dog's special talents. Next week I'll offer tips on how to teach your pet some basic tricks.

PETS ON THE WEB

Every holiday season folks worry if their poinsettias are poisonous. They're not, even though I got a handful of urgent missives from various animal groups warning people about the plants. Old myths are hard to fight, I guess. Still, your pets can indeed get in trouble with plants commonly found in many homes and yards. Cornell University offers online help, with its Poisonous Plants Web site (www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/plants.html). The site offers links to related lists, including one put together by the University of Illinois (www.library.uiuc.edu/vex/toxic/toxic.htm) that identifies plants by their common names, in case you're not too well-versed on all that genus and species mumbo jumbo.

PET TIP

With the nation in the grip of bitter cold, don't hesitate to help your dog out with a sweater. Yes, it may look silly to some, but for older dogs, those with little body fat (such as greyhounds and whippets) or sparse fur coats, the extra warmth a sweater provides is a kindness. You don't need to make a fashion statement with a leather jacket or a fur-lined collar. A couple of easy-to-wash acrylic knits from your local pet-supply store will do the trick, and fairly economically. Your pet will thank you.

Q: A friend sent me your column about "fur mice." Since you said your Hoover was outmatched, I just wanted to share some information and a cute story. I am a puppy raiser for Canine Companions for Independence (they provide assistance dogs for people with disabilities), and I am on an e-mail list with raisers from roughly 20 different organizations. Dog hair, as you can imagine, is a constant battle with all of us, most of whom have more than one dog, plus assorted cats and other animals.

One of the people posted a humorous note about dust puppies -- similar to fur mice, but I think they're more prolific. Her vacuum of choice was the Fantom Fury, and she asked if anyone else had used this wonder vac. Many had and quite a number have since purchased one.

I suggested to the Fantom people that they use a service dog in training in a future infomercial because not only was it good to promote a program that helps people, but also that our goldens (and Labs) could give those Dirt Devil pups a run for cuteness. They came to my house to film back in the first part of December. They will edit all they shot down to about 90 seconds, but they did cover the program and quite a bit about the dogs. It will air in February. If you're up at 3 a.m. with nothing to do one night, look for it.

Anyway, I just wanted to tell you that if your Hoover isn't handling your dog hair, you really should try the Fantom. I haven't found anything better to handle the hair on the floor. And the furniture. And in the air. -- K.D., via the Internet

A: Great story! As it happens, I'm often up at 3 a.m., and I'll be looking for that infomercial. It'll be a nice change of pace from the dog-training one and that one about the self-cleaning litter box.

As for the Hoover, I cannot complain. It's a wheezy, gaspy disaster now, but it has been eagerly sucking up drifts of pet fur for more than a decade. I guess it has earned its retirement.

I guess we wouldn't be animal lovers if we didn't find humor in pet hair. My favorite hair story is about a dog club holding its annual award banquet, and on each table was a baggie with some dog hair in it and a note attached that read: "We know you wouldn't know how to have a meal without dog hair, so we've provided some."

As a person who has picked pet fur off most everything from sweaters to butter cubes for nearly three decades, I can relate. I can also relate to something else I heard: "True pet people would send a meal back if they saw a human hair in it, but pick off the pet ones and eat without a second thought."

I'm always delighted to get pet-care tips from readers. Thanks for writing.

Q: I picked out a kitten at the end of summer, a calico, so I knew it was a girl. Guess what? It's not! I thought that wasn't possible. -- C.O., via the Internet

A: Extremely rare, but not impossible. About one in every 3,000 calico or tortoiseshell cats is a male.

The genetic code for a calico or tortoiseshell pattern is found only on the female, or X chromosome. For a cat to be a calico or tortie, it must have two X chromosomes, and that means in the vast majority of cases it's going to be female.

When the calico pattern exists in a male, it's because the cat has something relatively uncommon: three sex chromosomes -- two X, one Y. If both of those X chromosomes carry the calico gene, you're looking at a male calico. The three chromosomes make what is called a Klinefelter male, and they're usually unable to reproduce.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The Cat Fanciers' Association put out a special media release to vilify her. Newspapers, magazines and television news shows are hot on her trail. And thousands of people have called, written or e-mailed her from all over the world to tell her -- often in crude and threatening language -- what a terrible person she is.

It's the hottest pet story around, and Vickie Ives Speir of Marshall, Texas, is at the center of it, because of her interest in breeding deformed cats.

She calls them "Twisty Kats," and the animals take the controversial short-legged munchkin cat one step further, with legs that are not only short but bent, with paws the breeder described as "vestigial" -- and in some cases missing. The mutation arises when two of her polydactyl -- a fancy name for "extra-toed" -- cats are bred. The animals that result can't walk normally, and bounce instead like kangaroos, using their front elbows for balance as they move.

Is a handful of cats in Texas worth the furor? Emotions aside -- and these cats surely do trigger emotions -- it's hard to say.

It can be argued that all this anger and energy aligned against the breeder could be better put into the bigger problems that cats face in our society, primarily homelessness and overpopulation. Like the munchkin breed before it, the "Twisties" will always be rare, and the total impact of the breeds will always be small compared to the larger numbers of needy cats. What's even a few dozen problem cats compared to the tens of thousands killed as "surplus" every year? Why don't we care more about them? Pedigreed cats in general make up a tiny fraction of the general cat population, less than 10 percent by some estimates. If Speir launched her breed full-force, few of us would ever find ourselves in the company of a Twisty, and few Twisties would ever end up in shelters.

Maybe the furor is a bit overblown, and certainly those who have threatened Speir have no business doing so. But what she is doing is most certainly wrong.

As animal lovers -- and Speir claims that she is one -- we have a pact with those animals in our care. It involves proper stewardship, making sure their physical and emotional needs are met, and they are protected from harm. But it also involves respect, and the arrogant act of meddling with an animal's functionality shows very little of that.

A cat's very nature is about movement, graceful and smooth, on four good legs. It's one of the things we love about them, one of the things that makes them what they are. Running, jumping, stalking: These are natural to a cat, and anyone who would deny them these behaviors is no friend to cats, and no animal lover.

Speir is welcome to care for her deformed and crippled cats for the length of their natural lives, and by all appearances she cares for them well. But when they are gone, let us hope they are the end of a line, and that we will have heard the last of one woman's twisted idea. Let us hope, too, that some of the people who are so vocal against her will be equally pro-cat when it comes to the larger issues.

PETS ON THE WEB

One cat-lover has put together a thorough site covering the Twisty Kats controversy (www.delmars.com/kitcats/twisted.htm), complete with links to newspaper articles, letters, humane groups and other related Web sites. The site also contains the breeder's own original -- and now defunct -- Twisty Kat Web site, with pictures of the animals. The Veterinary Information Network's weekly online pet-care poll (www.vin.com/poll/pub.html) will be on the topic of these cats the week of Jan. 10.

PET TIP

If you're dealing with a house-soiling problem, be sure you clean up any accidents promptly and thoroughly; otherwise, the smell will attract repeat business. Use products designed for dealing with pet messes. These liquid products contain enzymes that break down waste and neutralize odor. For fresh urine, one part white vinegar to four parts tap water is another effective smell neutralizer. Whatever you do, don't use ammonia-based cleaning products on pet messes. They smell like urine to pets, since ammonia is one of the by-products of decomposing urine. Instead of making the area smell clean, ammonia makes a mess site even more attractive to your problem pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We're expecting a new baby in a couple of months, and we're worried about our cat, Pumpkin. She's been our spoiled child, and we want to make sure she accepts the baby. I understand this won't be easy. My mother-in-law is even saying that cats are dangerous around babies and that we should find a new home for Pumpkin. We don't want to do that, but obviously we don't want to put our child in danger. -- N.P., via the Internet

A: You don't need to find a new home for your pet, no matter what well-meaning relatives and friends may say to the contrary. Cats do not maliciously smother or suck the breath out of babies, as the myths hold. Still, to best protect your baby, you do need to be aware of the facts and exercise a little caution.

It's fairly easy to see how this myth started -- with a cat's natural curiosity to investigate a new addition to the family coupled with a crib death (a mysterious tragedy about which even today relatively little is known). It wouldn't take much for someone who had seen a cat in the crib -- perhaps sniffing at a baby's milk-scented breath -- and later found a dead child to try to find an explanation for the loss by linking the two events together, even though we now know such a link is not based on fact.

Still, common sense dictates that no animal be left unattended with a small child. The Humane Society of the United States, which keeps statistics on injuries inflicted by animals on people, knows of no documented case of a cat smothering an infant by resting on the child's face. Other experts, however, point out that such a scenario, although unlikely, is feasible and suggest taking precautions, which makes perfect sense. You don't want your baby to be the first to be harmed in such a way.

Some parents have gone so far as to install a screen door on the nursery to keep pets out, a simple and relatively inexpensive solution that should soothe your mother-in-law.

As for Pumpkin herself, she should be fine. Cats thrive on familiarity and routine, so work at getting the household settled down as soon as you can. Put aside a little time for her every day, for petting, grooming and interactive play, such as with a string toy. Some cats stop using the litter box when under stress, and if that happens, set her up in a small bedroom -- with litter box, food and water, and toys -- to retrain her and let her chill out for a few days. Then gradually expand her territory.

Q: We want to breed our Lhasa-poo, because she is so wonderful and we want another one just like her. We're having a hard time finding a stud, and hope you can point us to someone who has this breed. -- D.F., via the Internet

A: A Lhasa-poo isn't a breed; it's a mix, a combination of a poodle and a Lhasa apso. The distinction is important, because chances are even if you did find another Lhasa apso-poodle mix to breed with, you may not end up with puppies like either mom or dad.

A breed of animal is one that has had its "type" set through selective breeding, in which people home in on the traits they do want and select out the traits they don't, until what's left is an animal that will breed true when mated with another of its type. If you breed a poodle to a poodle, for example, you won't be expecting short noses and straight hair. But if you breed Lhasa-poos to each other, you could get any combination involved in each of the two breeds they came from.

The popular crosses -- cockapoo, peke-a-poo, terr-a-poo and so on -- are wonderful pets, with a wide variety of body types and personalities. They are each individuals and should be celebrated as such. Spay your girl for her health and to fight pet overpopulation, and if you want another dog, keep an eye out at your local shelter. Mixes of all kinds -- and purebreds, too -- end up there every day.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

In January, the magic of Christmas wears off quickly. The bills come, the decorations must be hauled down and put away, and if you're among those who adopted a puppy, you're now wondering: How soon will this baby be house-trained?

Puppy-parent, meet the crate. In recent years, the use of a shipping crate, available at any pet-supply store, to house-train puppies has become standard among knowledgeable trainers and breeders. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, eat or drink, or after a period of play, and they naturally prefer to do it away from their eating and sleeping areas. Use this knowledge to set up a schedule for molding proper behavior:

-- First thing in the morning: Take your puppy out of the crate and coax him to follow you outside to the spot you have chosen for him to relieve himself. If he starts to relieve himself on the trip outside, tell him "no" firmly and take him to the part of your yard that you've chosen as the "relief zone." Choose a command -- "hurry up" is what I use -- and praise him for going. Take him inside and give him food and water, then go outside again immediately: A full tummy puts pressure on a puppy's bladder. Then give the command and praise him when he goes. At this stage he's not really minding your command, but you're associating the act with the words, which will come in handy in the future.

If you're going to work, put him back in the crate. If you're not going to work, let him play for a couple of hours, but don't give him full run of the house. Close doors or use baby gates to keep him where you can see him, such as in a kitchen/family room area. After an hour or two, take him outside again, and repeat the command and praise. He'll be ready for a little nap, so put him in his crate until lunchtime.

-- The midday break: Take your puppy out of the crate and head outside for another round of command, relieve and praise for a job well done. Then take him back inside for food and water, then back outside.

If you're home on your lunch hour, play with him a little before you put him back in his crate. If you're going to be home with him, leave him out to play where you are, under your watchful eyes. Take him out in midafternoon, and then crate him for his afternoon nap.

If you cannot come home for lunch, try to get a friend or neighbor to handle the midday break. If that's not possible, set your puppy up in a safe area like the kitchen, and realize you'll be cleaning up a mess when you get home. Don't punish your puppy for the mess, because he can't help it.

-- Dinnertime: Same as midday. Take him out, feed him, take him out, and let him play. Leave him out for play and socializing in an area where you can watch him. Offer him a little water a couple of hours before bedtime, but no more food.

-- Bedtime: One last trip outside. You may be tired and cranky at this point, but don't let your puppy know it. Be consistent. Give your command, and after your puppy does what you want, praise like the dickens. Then bring your little angel inside and put him in his crate for the night. If he didn't go in a few minutes when he was outside, put him in his crate anyway. You'll be up again, soon enough.

-- Middle of the night: For the first week or so, you may also have to add a wee-hours outing to the schedule. If he wakes up and fusses at 3 a.m, put your shoes on -- you're taking him out.

If you're patient, positive and consistent, your puppy will start getting the idea right away, even if his body won't allow him to be "perfect" for a few months. If he doesn't seem to be getting the idea, talk to a trainer or behaviorist to figure out what the problem is and get the two of you back on track.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Dog Owner's Guide (www.canismajor.com/dog), an online newspaper for dog lovers, features dozens of excellent articles, many on raising, socializing and training puppies. The Web site is updated every other month.

PET TIP

Avian veterinarians say parrots do best on a diet of pellets, combined with a daily helping of fresh vegetables and fruits. My friend Dr. Carla Weinberg, a veterinarian and bird lover, passes along a tip to make providing vegetables easier for the cooking-impaired: Use frozen mixed vegetables. Bags of vegetable mixes with corn, peas, beans and carrots are easy to find and easy to store, and it only takes a short spell in the microwave to bring them up to room temperature. Little shopping, no chopping and no rotting veggies in the refrigerator -- what could be better?

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I just recently got my computer and was looking up things about boxer rescues. When I first got on the subject, I read a warning regarding those who charge to rescue or adopt an animal. Someone wrote me saying that adoptions usually cost between $70 and $200. I could go buy a dog from a breeder for that amount. Is this a scam? -- B.L., via the Internet

A: No, it's likely not a scam. The growth of the volunteer, grass-roots breed-rescue movement has been one of the real bright spots in the fight against pet overpopulation. If you're looking for a purebred and are willing to accept a grown dog instead of a puppy, then choosing a breed-rescue group is a good deal and a good deed.

Breed-rescue groups work with a single breed, such as the boxer, or a couple of related breeds, such as shelties and collies. The groups range from one-person operations placing a few dogs a year to a few nonprofits with their own sheltering facilities, boards of directors, and a well-organized volunteer network all dedicated to stepping in when one of their particular breed needs a hand.

While such diversity of policies makes it impossible to describe a "typical" breed-rescue effort, probably the closest description of one would be a group consisting of two to four volunteers who work together to foster and place dogs of their chosen breeds and are both affiliated with a local breed club and loosely tied to a national network of rescuers for that particular breed.

They typically offer dogs that have been vet-checked, vaccinated, and spayed or neutered, and the adoption fees they charge cover these routine veterinary expenses. Some expenses simply cannot be covered by adoption fees, such as veterinary bills to treat sick or injured animals. In addition, transportation and fostering costs usually come out of the volunteers' pockets, and they can be significant, as is the amount of time involved.

As for groups asking for money when you give up a dog, that's probably legitimate, too. No decent rescue group would turn a dog away because the owner won't pay, but a little extra money from the person who is, after all, causing the problem by giving up the dog goes a long way toward helping keep these important volunteer programs funded.

Q: I am sick of hairballs! Is there a way to keep my cat from throwing them up? And why do they always throw up where I'm sure to step in it? -- H.D., via the Internet

A: Dealing with fur ingested as a cat grooms himself and then vomited back up in clumps is a normal part of living with a cat. If the problem is severe, however, your veterinarian may suggest the use of a mild laxative preparation or an increase in fiber in the diet to help the hairballs pass through your cat's system. Canned pumpkin is a good way to increase the fiber in your cat's diet.

Don't let your cat become a laxative junkie, however, as daily use may tie up and decrease the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins. Hairball remedies should not be used more than twice weekly except on the advice of your veterinarian. Instead of changing your cat's diet, consider combing him more frequently to remove excess hair.

As for why they throw up where they do, I have no answer for you except this one: because they're cats.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600