In January, the magic of Christmas wears off quickly. The bills come, the decorations must be hauled down and put away, and if you're among those who adopted a puppy, you're now wondering: How soon will this baby be house-trained?

Puppy-parent, meet the crate. In recent years, the use of a shipping crate, available at any pet-supply store, to house-train puppies has become standard among knowledgeable trainers and breeders. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, eat or drink, or after a period of play, and they naturally prefer to do it away from their eating and sleeping areas. Use this knowledge to set up a schedule for molding proper behavior:

-- First thing in the morning: Take your puppy out of the crate and coax him to follow you outside to the spot you have chosen for him to relieve himself. If he starts to relieve himself on the trip outside, tell him "no" firmly and take him to the part of your yard that you've chosen as the "relief zone." Choose a command -- "hurry up" is what I use -- and praise him for going. Take him inside and give him food and water, then go outside again immediately: A full tummy puts pressure on a puppy's bladder. Then give the command and praise him when he goes. At this stage he's not really minding your command, but you're associating the act with the words, which will come in handy in the future.

If you're going to work, put him back in the crate. If you're not going to work, let him play for a couple of hours, but don't give him full run of the house. Close doors or use baby gates to keep him where you can see him, such as in a kitchen/family room area. After an hour or two, take him outside again, and repeat the command and praise. He'll be ready for a little nap, so put him in his crate until lunchtime.

-- The midday break: Take your puppy out of the crate and head outside for another round of command, relieve and praise for a job well done. Then take him back inside for food and water, then back outside.

If you're home on your lunch hour, play with him a little before you put him back in his crate. If you're going to be home with him, leave him out to play where you are, under your watchful eyes. Take him out in midafternoon, and then crate him for his afternoon nap.

If you cannot come home for lunch, try to get a friend or neighbor to handle the midday break. If that's not possible, set your puppy up in a safe area like the kitchen, and realize you'll be cleaning up a mess when you get home. Don't punish your puppy for the mess, because he can't help it.

-- Dinnertime: Same as midday. Take him out, feed him, take him out, and let him play. Leave him out for play and socializing in an area where you can watch him. Offer him a little water a couple of hours before bedtime, but no more food.

-- Bedtime: One last trip outside. You may be tired and cranky at this point, but don't let your puppy know it. Be consistent. Give your command, and after your puppy does what you want, praise like the dickens. Then bring your little angel inside and put him in his crate for the night. If he didn't go in a few minutes when he was outside, put him in his crate anyway. You'll be up again, soon enough.

-- Middle of the night: For the first week or so, you may also have to add a wee-hours outing to the schedule. If he wakes up and fusses at 3 a.m, put your shoes on -- you're taking him out.

If you're patient, positive and consistent, your puppy will start getting the idea right away, even if his body won't allow him to be "perfect" for a few months. If he doesn't seem to be getting the idea, talk to a trainer or behaviorist to figure out what the problem is and get the two of you back on track.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Dog Owner's Guide (www.canismajor.com/dog), an online newspaper for dog lovers, features dozens of excellent articles, many on raising, socializing and training puppies. The Web site is updated every other month.

PET TIP

Avian veterinarians say parrots do best on a diet of pellets, combined with a daily helping of fresh vegetables and fruits. My friend Dr. Carla Weinberg, a veterinarian and bird lover, passes along a tip to make providing vegetables easier for the cooking-impaired: Use frozen mixed vegetables. Bags of vegetable mixes with corn, peas, beans and carrots are easy to find and easy to store, and it only takes a short spell in the microwave to bring them up to room temperature. Little shopping, no chopping and no rotting veggies in the refrigerator -- what could be better?

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I just recently got my computer and was looking up things about boxer rescues. When I first got on the subject, I read a warning regarding those who charge to rescue or adopt an animal. Someone wrote me saying that adoptions usually cost between $70 and $200. I could go buy a dog from a breeder for that amount. Is this a scam? -- B.L., via the Internet

A: No, it's likely not a scam. The growth of the volunteer, grass-roots breed-rescue movement has been one of the real bright spots in the fight against pet overpopulation. If you're looking for a purebred and are willing to accept a grown dog instead of a puppy, then choosing a breed-rescue group is a good deal and a good deed.

Breed-rescue groups work with a single breed, such as the boxer, or a couple of related breeds, such as shelties and collies. The groups range from one-person operations placing a few dogs a year to a few nonprofits with their own sheltering facilities, boards of directors, and a well-organized volunteer network all dedicated to stepping in when one of their particular breed needs a hand.

While such diversity of policies makes it impossible to describe a "typical" breed-rescue effort, probably the closest description of one would be a group consisting of two to four volunteers who work together to foster and place dogs of their chosen breeds and are both affiliated with a local breed club and loosely tied to a national network of rescuers for that particular breed.

They typically offer dogs that have been vet-checked, vaccinated, and spayed or neutered, and the adoption fees they charge cover these routine veterinary expenses. Some expenses simply cannot be covered by adoption fees, such as veterinary bills to treat sick or injured animals. In addition, transportation and fostering costs usually come out of the volunteers' pockets, and they can be significant, as is the amount of time involved.

As for groups asking for money when you give up a dog, that's probably legitimate, too. No decent rescue group would turn a dog away because the owner won't pay, but a little extra money from the person who is, after all, causing the problem by giving up the dog goes a long way toward helping keep these important volunteer programs funded.

Q: I am sick of hairballs! Is there a way to keep my cat from throwing them up? And why do they always throw up where I'm sure to step in it? -- H.D., via the Internet

A: Dealing with fur ingested as a cat grooms himself and then vomited back up in clumps is a normal part of living with a cat. If the problem is severe, however, your veterinarian may suggest the use of a mild laxative preparation or an increase in fiber in the diet to help the hairballs pass through your cat's system. Canned pumpkin is a good way to increase the fiber in your cat's diet.

Don't let your cat become a laxative junkie, however, as daily use may tie up and decrease the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins. Hairball remedies should not be used more than twice weekly except on the advice of your veterinarian. Instead of changing your cat's diet, consider combing him more frequently to remove excess hair.

As for why they throw up where they do, I have no answer for you except this one: because they're cats.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It's a New Year's tradition around my home, one that has outlived a generation of dogs, but it still works to help ensure the safety of the animals I live with now.

No, not resolutions, although I always make those too, vowing, among other things, to exercise the dogs more, take more time for their training, and do more for the animals who are not as lucky as mine are.

The tradition I'm talking about is far easier to accomplish: I call the dogs over and check their necks.

I always do my "neck checks" around the first of the year. It's easy to remember that way, especially for me, a person who has a hard time remembering much of anything when it comes to appointments: heartworm and flea medications on the first of the month, neck checks the first of the year, annual exams and vaccinations the first of July. Any variation and I'm hopelessly lost.

Call your dog over and play along. I'll walk you through it. It's easy. We're looking for wear and fit, and legibility on the tags.

Consider the collar first. A properly fitted collar is important, but so, too, is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice, and the proper fit is comfortably close, but not too snug.

Make sure your dog's not wearing a "choke" collar. These are for training and walking only, and pose a severe hazard if left on an unsupervised dog. Choke collars can catch on objects and even the teeth of other dogs in play. In such cases, the dog's natural instinct to pull away can lead to his death as the chain pulls tight. If your dog is wearing such a collar, take it off now and consider yourself lucky as you head to the pet-supply store for a buckle or snap-on replacement.

If you have the right kind of collar on your dog, look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain you'll need to replace the collar soon. I've had only one collar break on me, and it could have been a disaster. Andy flew after a squirrel, and the broken collar allowed him to chase it right into a busy street -- empty at that moment, thank heavens. He treed the squirrel and bounced back happily when I called him. We were lucky, I know, and I've never let a collar get that worn since then.

As for those tags, they need checking, too. A license is fine, but since many lost pets are picked up by people in the neighborhood, it's a good idea to supplement the license with an ID tag that has a couple of phone numbers -- yours and the number of a friend or relative. Check to make sure the information is current and legible, and if not, order a new one. I never put the pet's name or my address on the tags. Instead, my dogs' tags say "REWARD!" with a collection of phone numbers. I want to get the point across that I want my pets back quickly.

Last year, I also added the tags of a pet-retrieval service called 1-800-HELP-4-PETS after they helped a friend get back his lost dogs. The service is available 24 hours a day, and can also authorize veterinary care with your credit card if your pet is injured and you cannot be found. The service is $40 for the first year and $20 per year after that. (More information is available by calling the 1-800 number.)

How did I fare with our neck checks this year? Not too badly. The collars are in fine shape, but Benjamin's missing his ID tag. I'll be ordering one this weekend.

Don't delay in fixing any problems you find with your pet's neck check. Problems with collars and tags are easy to fix, and they are the cheapest insurance you can buy against loss or accidents.

A final note: A microchip is another form of identification well worth considering. The tiny transponder, about the size of a grain of rice, is inserted by a veterinarian over the shoulder blades of dogs and cats and serves as a permanent identification that cannot be slipped off or removed. If you have a microchip implanted in your pet, it's not possible to check for the chip as part of your New Year's neck check. But do make a mental note to ask your veterinarian to scan for it the next time your pet visits. Most veterinarians have hand-held devices that can detect the presence of a chip, and can determine if it has stayed put in a spot where it can be found by shelter-workers, should your pet ever stray.

PETS ON THE WEB

I laughed when I got a note from a reader asking me if I knew where to find fabric with a Welsh corgi design for a gift she was hoping to make. What was so funny? I'm a home economics failure who hasn't progressed much beyond reapplying buttons -- and I knew the answer off the top of my head! The explanation? My friend Reina, quiltmaker extraordinaire, had one day shown me the Hot Diggity Dog Web site (www.hotdiggitydog.com), which sells fabric in more than 120 dog-breed designs, plus designs with cats and a handful of others critters such as llamas, wolves and tigers. The company also sells completed products made of the fabric, including quilts and throw pillows. The Oceanside, Calif., company can also be reached by phone (800-780-3136).

PET TIP

Annual physicals are even more important as a pet ages, and they need to be more extensive than when the animal was younger. Your veterinarian may suggest blood and urine tests, for example, to determine what's normal for your pet, so that subsequent changes in test values are more apparent -- and problems can be caught and treated early. These "well-pet" appointments are also a good time to address your concerns about your pet's aging, and the health and behavioral challenges that result. While the decisions on what, if any, treatments to pursue are yours alone to make, encourage your veterinarian to discuss freely any problems that are discovered and all the available options for care.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My cousin sent me something that's been apparently going around concerning what to do if your dog eats something sharp, such as glass Christmas tree ornaments. The instructions say to keep cotton balls in the cupboard and half-and-half in the freezer. If your pup gets into anything, thaw the half-and-half, dip the cotton into it and feed it to the dog. This is supposed to collect all shards and allow them to pass safely through. Is this legit? Is it safe? -- G.F., via the Internet.

A: The Veterinarian Information Network's Dr. Roger Gfeller, a board-certified specialist in emergency and critical care, says this trick has been around for years and it does work, to a degree. I showed him the document and asked what he thought.

"The cotton trick is a good one that has been passed down through the ages," he says. "Does it really improve the chances that the foreign material will pass without harm? No one has done the study to know, but it has been shown that the cotton does wrap around sewing needles, fishhooks, etc."

Gfeller, who practices in Fresno, Calif., cautions against putting too much faith in the procedure and adds a further refinement of his own. "I'm not certain I would use the statement, 'Even the teeniest shards of glass will be caught and wrapped in the cotton fibers, and the cotton will protect the intestines from damage by the glass,' as this is a bit too close to a guarantee. I also would not use such a high-fat "dip" as the half-and-half. This is not good for dogs or people. I'd stick to chicken broth or some other lower-fat substance."

For my own pets, I wouldn't be too keen on using a home remedy for something as potentially deadly as glass in the intestine -- I'd want to be working with my veterinarian from the very beginning. And that brings up a good point: Do you know what to do in an emergency? Give your veterinarian a call now and find out if the hospital is available for after-hours help. If not, locate the nearest emergency clinic and keep the number handy. You never know when you'll need it.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When Dr. Brian Speer gave up his small-animal practice in 1985 to focus solely on birds, his wife questioned his sanity.

"At the time, only 3 percent of my practice income was based on birds," said the Oakley, Calif., veterinarian. "But I wasn't happy with general practice. Working on birds was challenging. It was fascinating new ground."

Fortunately for Speer and his family -- which now includes three ostriches, two emus, 11 pairs of macaws and a variety of barnyard fowl -- the risk paid off. Speer, one of relatively few full-time avian veterinarians, has a large and loyal clientele, and an influential post as the incoming president of the Association of Avian Veterinarians (AAV). He has lectured all over the world, written countless articles and has co-authored one definitive book, "The Large Macaws" (Raintree Publications).

Which is not to say that all his clients were happy with his decision. Speer likes to tell the story of the people who taped chicken feathers onto their dog as a joke, hoping he'd back off from his "birds-only" rule. If they'd known how just how long Speer has been drawn to birds, they might not have bothered.

"When I was working for an equine veterinarian, before I went to veterinary school, I would get in trouble because I was supposed to be holding the horse and I was looking at the peacocks," he said. "I ended up being driven to being good at one thing -- and that's feathers."

His own interest aside, Speer says it's bird lovers who really made his decision possible, and have pushed veterinary medicine to do more for avian pets. It's a big change in attitude: The AAV itself is only two decades old, and Speer says that in many ways avian medicine is still only where canine medicine was in the '40s. The organization's growth to 3,000 veterinarian members, of which less than 5 percent practice avian medicine full-time, reflects pet-owner demand to improve the situation.

"People are more appreciative of the animals themselves than they were even 10 years ago," he said, adding that today, birds are more likely to be members of the family, not just decorative elements.

"The consumer is less and less happy with 'I don't know what to do -- try this,' from a veterinarian, and because of that, more and more veterinarians are familiar now with avian medicine," said Speer, who singles out preventive care and behavior as two areas of increased knowledge that will make a big difference in the lives of birds and those who love them in the years to come.

When it comes to birds, the years can indeed be many. Some parrots are capable of achieving life spans that match our own, a prospect that gives Speer no end of pleasure, as does further advances in the care of those birds.

"I'm really looking forward to seeing those birds in the next 10 or 20 years," he said.

As our appreciation and understanding of these wonderful companions grows, so does the likelihood that Speer will get his wish.

PETS ON THE WEB

Elizabeth Cusulas' Dog Carols Web site (www.ddc.com/waggers/carols.html) page remains one of my favorites. Even though when I last checked she had yet to put up her 1998 carols, the selections from the last two years are still, er, howlers. A self-described "dog mama" to four cocker spaniels, Cusulas has rewritten holiday song lyrics to be more dog-focused. How can you miss with songs such as "Hark! The Joyous Doggies Call," "O Puppy Tree" and "The Twelve Days of Puppy"?

If you can't remember how the songs go, sound files are there to help you or provide the instrumental background to your best singing effort. As Cusulas writes on the opening page: Point your muzzles to the sky and sing along!

PET TIP

Don't forget those who help animals in this season of giving. It doesn't take much to help your local shelter, now or at any time of year. Gifts of time, services or new or used goods are always welcome and can make a real difference in the lives of animals who aren't as lucky and loved as yours are. Call your shelter and find out what's on its "wish list." Even a gift of litter or pet food can help, as can the donation of old towels and newspapers.

Your local shelter can even make your holiday gift-giving easier: What true animal lover wouldn't warm to a gift membership or donation to help animals?

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My teen-age children and I have a medium-sized, mixed-breed female dog. I am not exactly sure what breeds she is because she was a dog my children's father had and couldn't keep. She is basically a good dog.

I have had a dog as a pet most of my life, but not a female who was not spayed. I am not sure how to tell if she comes in heat. What I should do? She is outside when nobody is home, but our yard is completely fenced in. Any help you can give me would greatly appreciated. -- C.A., via the Internet

A: My friend Penny Worel, who has as much animal-savvy as anyone I've ever known, helps me out with my sometimes overwhelming daily dose of e-mail. Her answer cannot be improved on, and I share it with her permission:

"Run, don't walk to the nearest vet and have her spayed. She will be happier and healthier, and you will be saving yourself a million headaches. Females usually come into heat every six months. The heat lasts approximately 21 days. It begins with a swelling of the vulva, and then she will begin to have a bloody discharge. Females will try every means possible to find a mate at this time. In addition, males from a 10-mile radius will converge on your house, and no fence ever built will keep out the more aggressive suitors.

"The only safe method of keeping her from being bred is to put her in a crate inside your house. She can only go outside on a leash, and you should be prepared for a few bold suitors to follow wherever you go."

Penny puts it more kindly than I would. Here's the bottom line: Having an unspayed dog is a royal pain in the fanny. You can also add the annoyance factor to the possibility of bringing unwanted puppies into the world and the increased risk of cancer to your dog for every day you delay. Well, what are you waiting for?

If cost is an issue, call the folks at your local humane society. If they don't have their own program, they can direct you to some reduced-cost alternatives in your community.

Q: I read your article on the use of cat collars, and I do agree to some extent. I would just like to state the ultimate responsibility for our pet's safety is in our own hands.

I believe if a cat-owner truly cares for the safety of her animal, it will be not let outside. If so, it is under constant supervision. By doing so, one will not "lose" her lifelong pet, and it will decrease the amount of strays being turned into local humane societies.

Some may say my thinking is like putting my animals in so-called "prison," but when our pets are given the love and attention they need, this is hardly the case. -- C.L., via the Internet

A: Yes, cats can have wonderful lives indoors, when their owners take care to ensure they have environmental stimulation from toys, cat trees, safe plants and sunshine, as well as lots of interactive play and attention.

The idea of indoor-only cats will never catch on entirely, though. Some people don't like dealing with litter boxes (and prefer not to think about in whose garden their cats are digging) and some insist that a short, "free" life is better than a long one indoors. Behavior problems such as scratching and inappropriate elimination are also more common (just more obvious, really) with indoor cats.

The topic will always be a hot one, just as surely as outdoor cats will always be at risk. Anything that reduces that risk is worth it, which is why collars and tags are so important. Thanks for writing.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600