The image of a beribboned puppy and delighted children on Christmas morning is one a lot of parents can't get out of their heads -- and one that sells a lot of puppies every year at this time.

Never mind that humane societies, trainers, veterinarians and reputable breeders say that Christmas morning is just about the worst time to introduce a puppy to the family. To parents with camera at hand, the scene seems worth the trouble of an energetic ball of fluff rolling around on one of the year's most hectic days.

But is it really? Introducing a puppy on Christmas Day is very stressful for all concerned. The puppy needs your attention -- but so does everything else. It's never a good plan in a busy household.

Even if you get your pup before or after the actual holiday, you have some challenges. The first may be finding the right puppy. Many shelters and reputable breeders will not place puppies right before Christmas, because they believe the time is just too high-risk. That leaves you with less-than-ideal sources for your pet.

And that's not all: Consider the problem of socializing and training a puppy in the dead of winter, if white winters visit your corner of the universe in December. By the time the snow starts to melt, you could have a half-grown canine terror on your hands. Even if you're living where a white Christmas isn't a factor, house-training a puppy in the middle of winter is no picnic, especially that 2 a.m. trip to the yard.

Giving up that Norman Rockwell moment when your children discover that St. Nick has answered their pleas for a puppy is difficult. But if you want a better chance of still having that pet as a well-loved member of the family on future Christmases, consider this option: Wrap a collar and leash and a dog book for the children and put that under the tree. Tell your children that their puppy had to wait to be born, but will be with them as soon as she can.

If you decide to go ahead anyway, shop carefully. People who don't know or don't care about the kinds of problems they're breeding are counting on you being too besotted with holiday cheer to do your homework. Make sure you buy from someone who has socialized the puppies in their home from the time they've been born.

Ask, too, about the genetic problems in the breed you fancy, and ask what the breeder has done to eliminate them. For example, don't buy a large-breed puppy whose parents haven't been certified free of hip dysplasia by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals or PennHip. You don't want your pup to be emotionally damaged, and you certainly don't want to be facing expensive surgery to correct congenital problems down the road.

PETS ON THE WEB

A great many of us will be buying holiday gifts for our favorite pets. If you're one of them and ready to jump into the world of electronic commerce, have I got a couple of Web sites to start your shopping!

For dogs, try DogToys.com (www.dogtoys.com), a slick site offering more than 300 of the highest-quality toys, including a good selection of indestructible Kong toys and lots of sturdy plush. DogToys also has the hottest new toy, the Buster Cube, a sturdy kibble-filled puzzle that your dog must work on to solve -- great for home-alone pups with time on their hands.

DogToys also offers a few cat toys, but I prefer the selection at Cat Faeries (www.catfaeries.com). Cat Faeries specializes in handmade toys for cats and fantastic finds for people who love them -- books, jewelry and more.

PET TIP

All the trials of old age can make a dog downright cranky, and make some people long to have a puppy in the house. Of course, you want to be sure your older dog enjoys the addition, or at least tolerates it. So should you add a puppy to an older dog's life?

That depends. For some older dogs, a puppy is a big boost to the senior's enthusiasm for life. For others, a puppy's energy and attention are enough to make an older dog want to leave home. You must determine which of these attitudes your older dog has.

In general, though, older dogs who are still fit and full of life will probably get the most out of an addition to the household; elderly or severely debilitated dogs will enjoy it least. No matter your dog's age, however, try to keep tabs on the interaction until you're sure how things are progressing. Don't let your older dog overextend himself, and put the puppy behind a baby gate or in a crate to give your oldster a break from time to time.

Finally, save some energy and time for dog No. 1: Spend time together, just the two of you, so he realizes that he is still very much loved.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: The first half of your column in today's paper discussed the reasons for having a proper cat carrier. I do have one like the one you recommended, but there are some low-cost vaccination clinics (the kind that you receive coupons for in the mail) that specifically request that you do not use a cat carrier when bringing in your cat, but instead use a pillowcase. What could their reason possibly be for that request? -- S.R., Santa Rosa, Calif.

A: A cat will be more secure and more comfortable in a hard-sided carrier like the one you have. A vaccine clinic can be stressful enough for a cat without being slung about like a bag of potatoes.

Why the pillowcase? A cat in a pillowcase is easier to immobilize than one that must be removed from a carrier. This is especially important considering that many such clinics are held in open-air settings. A frightened cat can be slicker than snail slime and a real challenge to hold, especially when teeth and claws come into play.

My preference remains with the carrier, and with a veterinarian who has time to handle your cat with gentleness and look for health problems. A good working relationship with a veterinarian who knows your pet well is the best preventive medicine you can buy.

Q: I'm a diehard cat lover. I've been through cancer and diabetes with mine, and would do anything for them as long as they are enjoying their life.

I would never let any cat of mine outdoors unattended. Cat lovers are a tolerant people, but I think we do a disservice to each other by not speaking out when it comes to letting cats roam free outdoors. I've seen too many gruesome sights on the side of the road, knowing that I was looking at someone's beloved kitty, hoping that their owners would not have to see them like that and also angry that they think a cat has a chance against automobiles.

There are so many other things that are lethal to them, communicable diseases and dogs, and where I live there are also coyotes in abundance. I don't hesitate to share my views with cat lovers I know; if I can change one mind I'll be happy. I hope that you and others who can reach many more than I might help also. -- M.H., via the Internet

A: Only the subject of declawing is liable to spark a bigger fight than the one you'll get on the topic of indoor vs. outdoor cats. More cats than ever before are living completely inside, and that's changed since I started writing about pets nearly 20 years ago.

Cats do indeed live longer, healthier lives inside, but those who argue against keeping them in point out that indoor cats often have more behavioral problems -- or, at least, problems that we notice more often. If you choose to keep your cat indoors, you must make up for what he has lost -- an enriched and ever-changing environment. Ideally, that means access to fresh air in a screened-in room, but it surely means lots of toys, lots of play and lots of attention. Litterboxes cannot be neglected, and opportunities for scratching must be provided.

Behavioral problems are often our own fault, caused by our ignorance of emotional and physical needs of our caged tigers. If you do your part, your indoor cat will be very happy -- along with being healthy and safe.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Few negotiations are as complex and delicate as those between cats living together in a crowded house. Cats are by nature solitary, contemplative beings, and although we now know they are more social than we once gave them credit for, they still can't quite manage the jovial pack behavior of the dog. (Nor would they want to, of course.)

While some co-habitating cats become loving companions -- especially if raised together from kittenhood -- others live in a state akin to a cold war, with territories carefully drawn and fervently defended. One cat lives here, one cat lives there, and as long as everyone gets food, water, a clean litterbox and plenty of attention, life goes on in relative peace and quiet.

Until, that is, something turns up the heat on the cold war. Something like a tiny kitten who refuses to play by the rules.

I've spent some time recently waiting for just such a kitten, Agamemnon the Fearless, in the second-story bedroom of the gracious old South Georgia home where my friends Joe and Peg live, along with a blended family of kids, dog, cats, and a tough-minded cockatiel named Ed. ATF is one of two family additions that have taken place while I'm visiting. While the kitten was an unplanned delight, the other, the golden retriever grandpup of the aging Sundance, has been anticipated for months.

The cats are not happy with either addition, although of the two youngsters, the kitten seems to be the bigger problem as far as they're concerned. Four cats reside here, more or less peacefully, two upstairs and two down. The stairs function as sort of a demilitarized zone that not even the dogs dare cross.

Agamemnon doesn't know or care that he's heading where he ought not. The pint-sized gray panther, perhaps 8 weeks old and a pound if he's lucky, has a very heavy step on the stairs. Still, it's slow going. The risers are tall, and there are a lot of them, with two landings where the stairs turn again and continue upward. I hear ATF leap up the first flight, then rest, then the second flight, then rest. I know he is considering the final six steps.

His name was not given in jest. He is strong-willed and determined -- characteristics that surely account for his surviving being trapped between the walls of an old house for three days. Stairs are nothing to him. With a final explosion of energy, he gains the landing and heads to where I'm sitting, oblivious to the cats on either side of me.

Darlene, the creaky calico who reigns over the upstairs like an aging and ill-tempered Southern belle in reduced circumstances, warns him with a low yowl that he'd better mind his manners. He shows no signs of complying, so Darlene leaps onto the bookshelf, out of his reach. Momcats, a cross-eyed Siamese, hisses in fury and leaps out the window, perching on a sunny spot along the spine of the roof.

Agamemnon couldn't care less that he has sparked a wholesale re-evaluation of existing treaties and alliances. Yowls and hisses fill the house. Litterboxes are ignored, and even though I am an innocent bystander and impartial observer, I wake up one day to find something unwanted in my suitcase. Who did it? Who knows? The upstairs cats have been spotted in the downstairs hall, and one of the downstairs cats has come in through the second-story window.

The human contingent reacts with as much patience, understanding, extra litterboxes and strong cleaning solutions as can be mustered.

These things don't always work out, but in this case it seems they will. As I'm about to head for home, the spats have become less frequent, along with the messes. The four cats have reclaimed their old territory, and the baby Agamemnon is free to roam both upstairs and down. Within a few months, I'm sure, only my suitcase will bear the scars of conflict. A small sacrifice for peace, to be sure.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Federation of Aviculture (http://www3.upatsix.com/afa/) is a nonprofit group that supports the keeping and breeding of pet birds, and educates and lobbies on their behalf. While most of the Web site is used for encouraging people to join the organization, a little digging around will reveal some useful articles on such topics as feather-picking and aviary construction.

PET TIP

When you have pets, accidents happen, which is why you should always have clean-up supplies on hand. Cleaning up messes quickly is not only better for your carpets, but it helps to prevent a repeat -- old smells tend to encourage pets to create new ones. Avoid cleaners that contain ammonia -- it smells like urine to pets -- and do look for those that contain enzymes designed to break down wastes and neutralize odors. You can find a selection of the latter at any good pet-supply store.

You can also make a fairly effective cleaner for fresh urine accidents with water, white vinegar and a gentle dish soap such as Ivory. Combine a quart of hot water from the faucet with a teaspoon of Ivory and a teaspoon of white vinegar. Blot the area with paper towels, then apply the solution liberally. Let the solution sit for a few minutes and blot again. (If you're worried about color-fastness, test in an out-of-site patch first.)

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 10-year-old miniature schnauzer who started gaining weight about three months ago and is now terribly obese. I live on the second floor, and she can barely get up the stairs. What can I do for a quick weight loss? She can't walk very far without stopping and lying on her side. She pants constantly and seems to be miserable. Please help! Her name is Jil, and I love her dearly. -- E.C., via the Internet

A: Call your veterinarian right away, and especially before starting any weight-loss program. Because her weight came on so quickly and she is so incapacitated, you need to be sure there aren't other health problems involved. If everything checks out, follow your veterinarian's advice on a weight-reduction diet and a gradual increase in exercise.

No quick fixes here, though. Weight loss needs to be gradual for safety's sake. Pets become obese because of us. Your pet gets the exercise, food and treats you give her, no more and no less. She's not able to go to the store or prepare food on her own, or join a gym if she fancies.

Treats seem to be one of the biggest contributors to this epidemic. Some people give their pets plenty of between-meal goodies, not only from the Milkbone box but also from their own plates. All this adds up! Cutting out treats can be hard on both pet and pet owner, so try to cut back and switch to a low-cal treat such as carrot sticks.

Q: As you already probably know, Labs need a lot of attention in the early stages of life. I have a 7-month-old black Lab/chow mix (mostly Lab), and I want to know when I should start training -- I mean really start training. He has an attention span of about 15 to 20 minutes; then he loses interest. I don't want to force him too much, but I want him to listen.

My training experience has been limited to Rottweilers only. I had great success with them, but as you know, their disposition is greatly different from the more docile Labs. I am concerned about breaking the Lab's confidence.

With that in mind, can you give me your best recommendation for this loving, fun, intelligent and loyal companion of mine, so we both have many happy years together? -- P.T., via the Internet

A: All dogs need a lot of attention in the early stages of life. They are born as little sponges, soaking up good and bad behaviors from the very beginning, and that's when training should start, with gentle handling and exposure to the normal noises of a human household.

I'm a great fan of puppy classes, which begin as early as 12 weeks and are geared to teaching puppies to learn. These classes are loosely structured and lots of fun for both pets and people.

No dog needs to have his spirit broken to be trained. Training should be a way of forming a bond between you and your dog. In recent years, positive, reward-based training methods have gained wide acceptance, and I encourage you to take a class and learn how fun training can be.

Training in short intervals is highly effective and can more easily be fit into today's busy schedule. You can even train your dog in less time -- one minute here to sit before getting a food dish, a five-minute down-stay there while you iron a shirt. A good reference on this kind of training is Carol Lea Benjamin's "Dog Training in 10 Minutes" (Howell Book House-Macmillan General Reference), which can help you to integrate training your dog into your daily life.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Fur mice, big black ones, crowd the corners of my home. The vacuum cleaner is afraid of them, and with good reason: I've been through three of these expensive appliances since I moved into my home a decade ago.

A house full of dog fur will wear down even the bravest vacuum eventually.

My latest one is wheezing plaintively and dreads leaving the closest. This is the time of year when the fur mice seem to be mating, and there's an explanation: the big fall shed. The Hoover is outmatched, for sure.

Dogs typically lose their winter coat in the spring, when it is replaced by a shorter, lighter one for summer. In the fall, this cycle is reversed, as the summer coat is shed to make room for heavy protective fur for winter. The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, shelties and keeshonden. Those breeds carry not only a harsh, protective long overcoat, but also a soft, insulating undercoat -- and they lose masses of fur from both in spring and fall.

Hormonal swings factor in, too, in unspayed females, who lose hair in sheets at different times in their seasonal cycles (another great reason for spaying your dog, in addition to the many health benefits).

The amount and kind of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. Some double-coated dogs hold their coats pretty well except for a period in the spring and fall, while some medium-coated pets shed constantly. And some curly-coats seem to hardly shed at all. Golden retrievers and German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles deserve their reputation for neatness.

Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as the longhairs, but since the hair they shed is more easily overlooked, it may seem they are shedding less. Not so in my house, where most of the fur mice are from the medium-coated retrievers, even though Andy, my sheltie, has a glorious, long double coat.

Even the heaviest shedders can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch before it's shed won't end up on a rug.

Grooming should be a regular part of maintaining your dog. The advantages are many. Regular brushing will keep your pet's coat in top condition, lengthen the period between baths, and help you to spot suspicious lumps and bumps early. Plus, it's great for bonding, especially if you end every session with lots of love and a good tummy rub.

And it's not hard to do, no matter your pet's coat type. Divide the coat into small sections and work slowly and gently. Misting the coat with water from a spray bottle will make the work easier. Work against the grain and close to the skin to catch as much of the ready-to-fall fur as possible.

Mats can be painful to your pet and need to be kept under control. Work cornstarch in and carefully slice the tangle in half with scissors, with the sharp edge pointing away from your pet's skin. Work the fur gently free with your fingers and finish the job with a wide-toothed comb. If you can't get the mat untangled without a lot of tugging, do your pet a favor and cut it off. The fur will grow back.

No matter what the breed, shedding -- and heavy seasonal shedding -- is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems too dull or excessive hair loss is noticed.

What about winter protection for dogs who don't naturally carry enough coat? Try a sweater. While many people laugh at the idea of putting clothes on dogs, it's not a bad idea in some cases. In particular, slight breeds such as whippets and Italian greyhounds can use the help, as can many older, arthritic dogs.

PETS ON THE WEB

They're America's top dogs, according to the American Kennel Club, and they've even got one of their kind in the White House. The Labrador retriever has a well-earned reputation as a great family pet and versatile working dog. If you're among the breed's many fans, you'll love Labrador World (www.labradorworld.com). The site packs in information on finding a reputable breeder or rescue group, which is never so important as in a popular breed. (A poorly bred and unsocialized puppy or dog is much more likely to have serious health and temperament problems.) Labrador World also offers help on training and health, as well as chat rooms, discussion groups, and links to many other Labrador-related sites and e-mail lists. Lots to sniff through on this site!

PET TIP

"Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover's Soul," a collection of short works celebrating the human-animal bond, is the pet book phenomenon of the year, and its co-authors are ready to ladle up another helping. If you have a story for them, they'd like to see it -- and soon, since the deadline for submission is Dec. 31. Stories should be 1,200 words or less and have what the authors call a "Chicken Soup moment," a point that evokes a emotional response. Carol Kline is the person to contact by regular mail: P.O., Box 1262, Fairfield, Iowa 52556; or by e-mail at ckline(at)lisco.com.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A number of years ago you printed in the San Jose Mercury News a recipe for "liver brownies." I saved it, the dogs loved it, I moved, and it's lost. Hooper, a black, handsome, bright Lab-pit would be eternally grateful to you if you would send the recipe. Thanks! -- L.Z.D., via the Internet

A: My best to Hooper. Here's the recipe, and bone appetite!

LIVER BROWNIES

-- 1 pound of liver, pureed in blender or food processor;

-- 1 cup cornmeal;

-- garlic powder to taste (your dog's, not yours);

-- a little water to get the consistency of chewy brownie batter.

Mix and spread in brownie pan. Bake about 25 minutes at 325-350 degrees. Stick a knife in center to see if they are done. Cool and cut. They can be frozen for later use.

Q: We recently just got a new puppy and are still unsure of its breed. We noticed worms about two weeks ago in her stool and assumed it was roundworm. I went to the store, purchased the worm medication, followed the instructions on the package and gave two treatments. We thought the problem had disappeared, but then the other night we noticed a worm in his stool.

If you could give me some general information on what kind of worms they might be, it would be very helpful. Can I treat it myself, or should I take her to the vet? -- H.O., via the Internet

A: Puppies aren't born with roundworms, but they pick them up so soon after that they might as well be. The very mother's milk that gives puppies the immunity they need to survive their first few weeks of life also carries the roundworm larvae that will plague almost every puppy.

Chances are your puppy still has roundworms, but that's not the only kind of parasite that could be compromising his health. Your puppy needs to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Your veterinarian will give you the medication you need to treat the infestation. Follow directions exactly, including the one for a recheck. Your puppy won't be in the clear until a fecal examination at the vet's office reveals no sign of worms.

Don't forget to discuss heartworms with your vet, too. In most areas, heartworm prevention should start within the first month of life. Prevention is the key to keeping heartworms at bay, since despite recent advances in the treatment of heartworm infestations, it's still better for the pet to prevent problems with either the monthly or daily pill.

Ask your veterinarian about a "puppy package." Some practices combine preventive-care measures for puppies into a single plan that's priced more cheaply than each procedure would be individually. It's a great way to get your puppy off to the best start, with vaccinations, wormings and spaying or neutering.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600