Few negotiations are as complex and delicate as those between cats living together in a crowded house. Cats are by nature solitary, contemplative beings, and although we now know they are more social than we once gave them credit for, they still can't quite manage the jovial pack behavior of the dog. (Nor would they want to, of course.)

While some co-habitating cats become loving companions -- especially if raised together from kittenhood -- others live in a state akin to a cold war, with territories carefully drawn and fervently defended. One cat lives here, one cat lives there, and as long as everyone gets food, water, a clean litterbox and plenty of attention, life goes on in relative peace and quiet.

Until, that is, something turns up the heat on the cold war. Something like a tiny kitten who refuses to play by the rules.

I've spent some time recently waiting for just such a kitten, Agamemnon the Fearless, in the second-story bedroom of the gracious old South Georgia home where my friends Joe and Peg live, along with a blended family of kids, dog, cats, and a tough-minded cockatiel named Ed. ATF is one of two family additions that have taken place while I'm visiting. While the kitten was an unplanned delight, the other, the golden retriever grandpup of the aging Sundance, has been anticipated for months.

The cats are not happy with either addition, although of the two youngsters, the kitten seems to be the bigger problem as far as they're concerned. Four cats reside here, more or less peacefully, two upstairs and two down. The stairs function as sort of a demilitarized zone that not even the dogs dare cross.

Agamemnon doesn't know or care that he's heading where he ought not. The pint-sized gray panther, perhaps 8 weeks old and a pound if he's lucky, has a very heavy step on the stairs. Still, it's slow going. The risers are tall, and there are a lot of them, with two landings where the stairs turn again and continue upward. I hear ATF leap up the first flight, then rest, then the second flight, then rest. I know he is considering the final six steps.

His name was not given in jest. He is strong-willed and determined -- characteristics that surely account for his surviving being trapped between the walls of an old house for three days. Stairs are nothing to him. With a final explosion of energy, he gains the landing and heads to where I'm sitting, oblivious to the cats on either side of me.

Darlene, the creaky calico who reigns over the upstairs like an aging and ill-tempered Southern belle in reduced circumstances, warns him with a low yowl that he'd better mind his manners. He shows no signs of complying, so Darlene leaps onto the bookshelf, out of his reach. Momcats, a cross-eyed Siamese, hisses in fury and leaps out the window, perching on a sunny spot along the spine of the roof.

Agamemnon couldn't care less that he has sparked a wholesale re-evaluation of existing treaties and alliances. Yowls and hisses fill the house. Litterboxes are ignored, and even though I am an innocent bystander and impartial observer, I wake up one day to find something unwanted in my suitcase. Who did it? Who knows? The upstairs cats have been spotted in the downstairs hall, and one of the downstairs cats has come in through the second-story window.

The human contingent reacts with as much patience, understanding, extra litterboxes and strong cleaning solutions as can be mustered.

These things don't always work out, but in this case it seems they will. As I'm about to head for home, the spats have become less frequent, along with the messes. The four cats have reclaimed their old territory, and the baby Agamemnon is free to roam both upstairs and down. Within a few months, I'm sure, only my suitcase will bear the scars of conflict. A small sacrifice for peace, to be sure.

PETS ON THE WEB

The American Federation of Aviculture (http://www3.upatsix.com/afa/) is a nonprofit group that supports the keeping and breeding of pet birds, and educates and lobbies on their behalf. While most of the Web site is used for encouraging people to join the organization, a little digging around will reveal some useful articles on such topics as feather-picking and aviary construction.

PET TIP

When you have pets, accidents happen, which is why you should always have clean-up supplies on hand. Cleaning up messes quickly is not only better for your carpets, but it helps to prevent a repeat -- old smells tend to encourage pets to create new ones. Avoid cleaners that contain ammonia -- it smells like urine to pets -- and do look for those that contain enzymes designed to break down wastes and neutralize odors. You can find a selection of the latter at any good pet-supply store.

You can also make a fairly effective cleaner for fresh urine accidents with water, white vinegar and a gentle dish soap such as Ivory. Combine a quart of hot water from the faucet with a teaspoon of Ivory and a teaspoon of white vinegar. Blot the area with paper towels, then apply the solution liberally. Let the solution sit for a few minutes and blot again. (If you're worried about color-fastness, test in an out-of-site patch first.)

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 10-year-old miniature schnauzer who started gaining weight about three months ago and is now terribly obese. I live on the second floor, and she can barely get up the stairs. What can I do for a quick weight loss? She can't walk very far without stopping and lying on her side. She pants constantly and seems to be miserable. Please help! Her name is Jil, and I love her dearly. -- E.C., via the Internet

A: Call your veterinarian right away, and especially before starting any weight-loss program. Because her weight came on so quickly and she is so incapacitated, you need to be sure there aren't other health problems involved. If everything checks out, follow your veterinarian's advice on a weight-reduction diet and a gradual increase in exercise.

No quick fixes here, though. Weight loss needs to be gradual for safety's sake. Pets become obese because of us. Your pet gets the exercise, food and treats you give her, no more and no less. She's not able to go to the store or prepare food on her own, or join a gym if she fancies.

Treats seem to be one of the biggest contributors to this epidemic. Some people give their pets plenty of between-meal goodies, not only from the Milkbone box but also from their own plates. All this adds up! Cutting out treats can be hard on both pet and pet owner, so try to cut back and switch to a low-cal treat such as carrot sticks.

Q: As you already probably know, Labs need a lot of attention in the early stages of life. I have a 7-month-old black Lab/chow mix (mostly Lab), and I want to know when I should start training -- I mean really start training. He has an attention span of about 15 to 20 minutes; then he loses interest. I don't want to force him too much, but I want him to listen.

My training experience has been limited to Rottweilers only. I had great success with them, but as you know, their disposition is greatly different from the more docile Labs. I am concerned about breaking the Lab's confidence.

With that in mind, can you give me your best recommendation for this loving, fun, intelligent and loyal companion of mine, so we both have many happy years together? -- P.T., via the Internet

A: All dogs need a lot of attention in the early stages of life. They are born as little sponges, soaking up good and bad behaviors from the very beginning, and that's when training should start, with gentle handling and exposure to the normal noises of a human household.

I'm a great fan of puppy classes, which begin as early as 12 weeks and are geared to teaching puppies to learn. These classes are loosely structured and lots of fun for both pets and people.

No dog needs to have his spirit broken to be trained. Training should be a way of forming a bond between you and your dog. In recent years, positive, reward-based training methods have gained wide acceptance, and I encourage you to take a class and learn how fun training can be.

Training in short intervals is highly effective and can more easily be fit into today's busy schedule. You can even train your dog in less time -- one minute here to sit before getting a food dish, a five-minute down-stay there while you iron a shirt. A good reference on this kind of training is Carol Lea Benjamin's "Dog Training in 10 Minutes" (Howell Book House-Macmillan General Reference), which can help you to integrate training your dog into your daily life.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Fur mice, big black ones, crowd the corners of my home. The vacuum cleaner is afraid of them, and with good reason: I've been through three of these expensive appliances since I moved into my home a decade ago.

A house full of dog fur will wear down even the bravest vacuum eventually.

My latest one is wheezing plaintively and dreads leaving the closest. This is the time of year when the fur mice seem to be mating, and there's an explanation: the big fall shed. The Hoover is outmatched, for sure.

Dogs typically lose their winter coat in the spring, when it is replaced by a shorter, lighter one for summer. In the fall, this cycle is reversed, as the summer coat is shed to make room for heavy protective fur for winter. The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, shelties and keeshonden. Those breeds carry not only a harsh, protective long overcoat, but also a soft, insulating undercoat -- and they lose masses of fur from both in spring and fall.

Hormonal swings factor in, too, in unspayed females, who lose hair in sheets at different times in their seasonal cycles (another great reason for spaying your dog, in addition to the many health benefits).

The amount and kind of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. Some double-coated dogs hold their coats pretty well except for a period in the spring and fall, while some medium-coated pets shed constantly. And some curly-coats seem to hardly shed at all. Golden retrievers and German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles deserve their reputation for neatness.

Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as the longhairs, but since the hair they shed is more easily overlooked, it may seem they are shedding less. Not so in my house, where most of the fur mice are from the medium-coated retrievers, even though Andy, my sheltie, has a glorious, long double coat.

Even the heaviest shedders can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch before it's shed won't end up on a rug.

Grooming should be a regular part of maintaining your dog. The advantages are many. Regular brushing will keep your pet's coat in top condition, lengthen the period between baths, and help you to spot suspicious lumps and bumps early. Plus, it's great for bonding, especially if you end every session with lots of love and a good tummy rub.

And it's not hard to do, no matter your pet's coat type. Divide the coat into small sections and work slowly and gently. Misting the coat with water from a spray bottle will make the work easier. Work against the grain and close to the skin to catch as much of the ready-to-fall fur as possible.

Mats can be painful to your pet and need to be kept under control. Work cornstarch in and carefully slice the tangle in half with scissors, with the sharp edge pointing away from your pet's skin. Work the fur gently free with your fingers and finish the job with a wide-toothed comb. If you can't get the mat untangled without a lot of tugging, do your pet a favor and cut it off. The fur will grow back.

No matter what the breed, shedding -- and heavy seasonal shedding -- is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems too dull or excessive hair loss is noticed.

What about winter protection for dogs who don't naturally carry enough coat? Try a sweater. While many people laugh at the idea of putting clothes on dogs, it's not a bad idea in some cases. In particular, slight breeds such as whippets and Italian greyhounds can use the help, as can many older, arthritic dogs.

PETS ON THE WEB

They're America's top dogs, according to the American Kennel Club, and they've even got one of their kind in the White House. The Labrador retriever has a well-earned reputation as a great family pet and versatile working dog. If you're among the breed's many fans, you'll love Labrador World (www.labradorworld.com). The site packs in information on finding a reputable breeder or rescue group, which is never so important as in a popular breed. (A poorly bred and unsocialized puppy or dog is much more likely to have serious health and temperament problems.) Labrador World also offers help on training and health, as well as chat rooms, discussion groups, and links to many other Labrador-related sites and e-mail lists. Lots to sniff through on this site!

PET TIP

"Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover's Soul," a collection of short works celebrating the human-animal bond, is the pet book phenomenon of the year, and its co-authors are ready to ladle up another helping. If you have a story for them, they'd like to see it -- and soon, since the deadline for submission is Dec. 31. Stories should be 1,200 words or less and have what the authors call a "Chicken Soup moment," a point that evokes a emotional response. Carol Kline is the person to contact by regular mail: P.O., Box 1262, Fairfield, Iowa 52556; or by e-mail at ckline(at)lisco.com.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A number of years ago you printed in the San Jose Mercury News a recipe for "liver brownies." I saved it, the dogs loved it, I moved, and it's lost. Hooper, a black, handsome, bright Lab-pit would be eternally grateful to you if you would send the recipe. Thanks! -- L.Z.D., via the Internet

A: My best to Hooper. Here's the recipe, and bone appetite!

LIVER BROWNIES

-- 1 pound of liver, pureed in blender or food processor;

-- 1 cup cornmeal;

-- garlic powder to taste (your dog's, not yours);

-- a little water to get the consistency of chewy brownie batter.

Mix and spread in brownie pan. Bake about 25 minutes at 325-350 degrees. Stick a knife in center to see if they are done. Cool and cut. They can be frozen for later use.

Q: We recently just got a new puppy and are still unsure of its breed. We noticed worms about two weeks ago in her stool and assumed it was roundworm. I went to the store, purchased the worm medication, followed the instructions on the package and gave two treatments. We thought the problem had disappeared, but then the other night we noticed a worm in his stool.

If you could give me some general information on what kind of worms they might be, it would be very helpful. Can I treat it myself, or should I take her to the vet? -- H.O., via the Internet

A: Puppies aren't born with roundworms, but they pick them up so soon after that they might as well be. The very mother's milk that gives puppies the immunity they need to survive their first few weeks of life also carries the roundworm larvae that will plague almost every puppy.

Chances are your puppy still has roundworms, but that's not the only kind of parasite that could be compromising his health. Your puppy needs to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Your veterinarian will give you the medication you need to treat the infestation. Follow directions exactly, including the one for a recheck. Your puppy won't be in the clear until a fecal examination at the vet's office reveals no sign of worms.

Don't forget to discuss heartworms with your vet, too. In most areas, heartworm prevention should start within the first month of life. Prevention is the key to keeping heartworms at bay, since despite recent advances in the treatment of heartworm infestations, it's still better for the pet to prevent problems with either the monthly or daily pill.

Ask your veterinarian about a "puppy package." Some practices combine preventive-care measures for puppies into a single plan that's priced more cheaply than each procedure would be individually. It's a great way to get your puppy off to the best start, with vaccinations, wormings and spaying or neutering.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Cat lovers are notoriously resistant to putting collars on their cats. Some just get tired of replacing the ones their cats keep slipping off; other people are convinced their roaming darlings will get caught on a tree branch by their collars and hang themselves.

Both groups are taking chances with their pets' lives. Cat collars are inexpensive insurance against loss, and as for the danger of being collared, shelter officials sadly admit to putting down scores of obviously lost cats because they cannot match them to their owners -- but never to finding cat skeletons in trees.

It's all about the importance of playing the odds. If you let your cat roam, give him a ticket home with ID. Even if your cat won't make it home again because he's been hit by a car or other calamity -- an all-to-common end to roaming cats -- you'll at least have the peace of mind of knowing his fate. That kind of news is never welcome, but it's always better than being left wondering and waiting.

Cat collars are made of lightweight material and designed to "give" enough to let your cat wriggle free should the collar ever catch on something. Don't get a puppy collar by mistake: Dog collars are meant to prevent escapes, and cat collars are made to allow them. The fit should be snug, but not uncomfortably so.

Once you've got the right collar, order a tag. ID tags come in high-impact plastic in a variety of colors and shapes or in metal, also in many varieties, such as circles, cat's heads, reflectors and so on. Since cat tags are small, don't bother with putting your cat's name on it, since he won't answer anyway unless he feels like it. Instead, use the space for a couple of extra phone numbers so someone who finds your cat can locate you or a friend, neighbor or relative day or night. If you're concerned about dangling tags, look for those that attach flat to the collar.

Some communities require free-roaming cats to be licensed as a way to offset the costs of handling strays and to ensure compliance with local rabies-vaccination requirements. To find out if your community is one of these with licensing requirements for cats, call your local animal-control agency. In response to concern about dangling tags, some agencies issue tags that slip over collars, while a few offer the option of tiny ear tags.

Microchips are form of ID that has come on strong in recent years, but they work best as a complement to tags, not a replacement for them. The microchip is permanent identification no bigger than a grain of rice, which your veterinarian imbeds under the skin over your pet's shoulder blades using a large needle. The chip, encased in a nonreactive glass casing, contains a unique identifying number that can be read by a scanner, kind of like those in the grocery store.

Remember, though, that most lost pets are found not by shelter staffers but by neighbors, and neighbors don't have microchip scanners in their collection of home appliances. Which is why although I highly recommend a microchip for permanent ID of your pet, I also advise you to be sure a collar and tag is on him at all times, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

Not surprisingly, some folks who adore domesticated skunks as pets thought my recent response to a question about them was a tad on the negative side. They differed with Dr. Linda Randall's assertion that the animals were destructive, and challenged me to set the record straight on their pets. One fancier, Shelor Brumbeloe of Georgia, sent me a brochure that is duplicated on her Skunk Lady Web site: www.geocities.com/(tilde)octodont/skunklady.

Curiously, the site confirms most of what Dr. Randall said, discussing ways to "skunk-proof" a home to prevent destructive digging at carpets or walls. While eye-numbingly text-heavy, Brumbeloe's page has a great deal on these pets, along with information on regional "skunks as pets" organizations and links to other skunk pages. If you'd like to learn more about skunk pets, this is a great place to start.

PET TIP

It's that time of year again: Thump your car before you start it, and don't be surprised if a cat comes flying out from underneath.

Cats are heat-seeking missiles, and on cold nights the ones unfortunate enough to have no shelter seek out the warmest places they can. Veterinarians know well what can happen to those heat-seekers who snuggle up to a warm engine and don't wake up in time to avoid injury.

Cars aren't the only cold-weather hazard for cats. Every year clothes dryers claim lives, too, after pets snuggled into a warm pile of clothes in the dryer and remained there when a family member unknowingly closes the door and turns the appliance back on.

This is another easy-to-prevent tragedy. Keep the door to your clothes dryer closed, and to be doubly sure, make sure your cat's not sleeping inside before you use it.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have two dogs, one a retriever mix, the other a Belgian shepherd mix. They stay primarily in the house. Their coats are shiny, they have no unpleasant odor, and if their paws get muddy from the yard, I wash their paws. Consequently, I bathe them perhaps twice a year. I also brush them every other week or so. My girlfriend thinks I should bathe them more often, despite the fact that she also agrees they don't smell. What are your thoughts? -- M.B., via the Internet

A: There's something to be said for the idea of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." If your dogs have a glossy coat, skin that's not flaking or showing other signs of problems, and you're happy with how they smell, then you're probably doing just fine. As you've discovered, regular brushing goes a long way toward extending the period between baths, redistributing the oils in the coat and getting rid of dirt and debris.

I would, however, be especially vigilant for fleas, which could throw everything out of kilter. The presence of fleas is most easily detected by looking for "flea dirt," a euphemism for blood-packed excrement of these voracious pests. Put your dog on a light-colored sheet and run your fingers deep against the grain of the fur. If you see little pepper-like specks on the sheet, my condolences: You've got flea dirt, and hence, fleas. Add a drop of water to the pepper and you'll see red as the dried blood remains become rehydrated. (Actually, anything having to do with fleas makes me see red. I flat-out hate them!)

Talk to your veterinarian about the new monthly spot-on products, Advantage and Frontline. They're easy to use and highly effective.

My own dogs get bathed about once a month, although the two retrievers see lake water considerably more frequently than they see bathwater. Between my allergies and the fact that all three of them sleep on the bed, I find that a good monthly sudsing makes them easier to live with -- less fur, less dirt, cleaner bedspread. They disagree and would rather skip the baths entirely. Too bad. As long as I'm paying for the kibble, they get baths.

Q: I am tired of watching my dog drink out of the toilet. It turns my stomach. I've yelled at her, spanked her and she won't stop. She just waits until she thinks I'm not looking, and I hear the "slurp, slurp, slurp." What can I do? -- T.B., via the Internet.

A: Close the bathroom door, put down the toilet lid, or both.

While it's true you can train a dog to do or not do a wide variety of things, sometimes it just makes more sense to look for another solution. Look at it for a minute from your dog's point of view: fresh water, frequently changed and in a container conveniently raised. Heck, if your dog thought about it, she'd be ticked at you for doing what you do in her water bowl.

This is a problem I never had until recently because my dogs were too short to reach the bowl. The big dogs find the bowl very convenient. I keep the lid down and, just in case I forget, skip any drop-in bowl cleaners.

A similar complaint I hear is from owners of pets that won't keep out of the kitchen trash bin. Solution: Get a bin with a pedal that raises the lid, or put the bin under the sink.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600