Fur mice, big black ones, crowd the corners of my home. The vacuum cleaner is afraid of them, and with good reason: I've been through three of these expensive appliances since I moved into my home a decade ago.

A house full of dog fur will wear down even the bravest vacuum eventually.

My latest one is wheezing plaintively and dreads leaving the closest. This is the time of year when the fur mice seem to be mating, and there's an explanation: the big fall shed. The Hoover is outmatched, for sure.

Dogs typically lose their winter coat in the spring, when it is replaced by a shorter, lighter one for summer. In the fall, this cycle is reversed, as the summer coat is shed to make room for heavy protective fur for winter. The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, shelties and keeshonden. Those breeds carry not only a harsh, protective long overcoat, but also a soft, insulating undercoat -- and they lose masses of fur from both in spring and fall.

Hormonal swings factor in, too, in unspayed females, who lose hair in sheets at different times in their seasonal cycles (another great reason for spaying your dog, in addition to the many health benefits).

The amount and kind of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. Some double-coated dogs hold their coats pretty well except for a period in the spring and fall, while some medium-coated pets shed constantly. And some curly-coats seem to hardly shed at all. Golden retrievers and German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles deserve their reputation for neatness.

Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as the longhairs, but since the hair they shed is more easily overlooked, it may seem they are shedding less. Not so in my house, where most of the fur mice are from the medium-coated retrievers, even though Andy, my sheltie, has a glorious, long double coat.

Even the heaviest shedders can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch before it's shed won't end up on a rug.

Grooming should be a regular part of maintaining your dog. The advantages are many. Regular brushing will keep your pet's coat in top condition, lengthen the period between baths, and help you to spot suspicious lumps and bumps early. Plus, it's great for bonding, especially if you end every session with lots of love and a good tummy rub.

And it's not hard to do, no matter your pet's coat type. Divide the coat into small sections and work slowly and gently. Misting the coat with water from a spray bottle will make the work easier. Work against the grain and close to the skin to catch as much of the ready-to-fall fur as possible.

Mats can be painful to your pet and need to be kept under control. Work cornstarch in and carefully slice the tangle in half with scissors, with the sharp edge pointing away from your pet's skin. Work the fur gently free with your fingers and finish the job with a wide-toothed comb. If you can't get the mat untangled without a lot of tugging, do your pet a favor and cut it off. The fur will grow back.

No matter what the breed, shedding -- and heavy seasonal shedding -- is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems too dull or excessive hair loss is noticed.

What about winter protection for dogs who don't naturally carry enough coat? Try a sweater. While many people laugh at the idea of putting clothes on dogs, it's not a bad idea in some cases. In particular, slight breeds such as whippets and Italian greyhounds can use the help, as can many older, arthritic dogs.

PETS ON THE WEB

They're America's top dogs, according to the American Kennel Club, and they've even got one of their kind in the White House. The Labrador retriever has a well-earned reputation as a great family pet and versatile working dog. If you're among the breed's many fans, you'll love Labrador World (www.labradorworld.com). The site packs in information on finding a reputable breeder or rescue group, which is never so important as in a popular breed. (A poorly bred and unsocialized puppy or dog is much more likely to have serious health and temperament problems.) Labrador World also offers help on training and health, as well as chat rooms, discussion groups, and links to many other Labrador-related sites and e-mail lists. Lots to sniff through on this site!

PET TIP

"Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover's Soul," a collection of short works celebrating the human-animal bond, is the pet book phenomenon of the year, and its co-authors are ready to ladle up another helping. If you have a story for them, they'd like to see it -- and soon, since the deadline for submission is Dec. 31. Stories should be 1,200 words or less and have what the authors call a "Chicken Soup moment," a point that evokes a emotional response. Carol Kline is the person to contact by regular mail: P.O., Box 1262, Fairfield, Iowa 52556; or by e-mail at ckline(at)lisco.com.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: A number of years ago you printed in the San Jose Mercury News a recipe for "liver brownies." I saved it, the dogs loved it, I moved, and it's lost. Hooper, a black, handsome, bright Lab-pit would be eternally grateful to you if you would send the recipe. Thanks! -- L.Z.D., via the Internet

A: My best to Hooper. Here's the recipe, and bone appetite!

LIVER BROWNIES

-- 1 pound of liver, pureed in blender or food processor;

-- 1 cup cornmeal;

-- garlic powder to taste (your dog's, not yours);

-- a little water to get the consistency of chewy brownie batter.

Mix and spread in brownie pan. Bake about 25 minutes at 325-350 degrees. Stick a knife in center to see if they are done. Cool and cut. They can be frozen for later use.

Q: We recently just got a new puppy and are still unsure of its breed. We noticed worms about two weeks ago in her stool and assumed it was roundworm. I went to the store, purchased the worm medication, followed the instructions on the package and gave two treatments. We thought the problem had disappeared, but then the other night we noticed a worm in his stool.

If you could give me some general information on what kind of worms they might be, it would be very helpful. Can I treat it myself, or should I take her to the vet? -- H.O., via the Internet

A: Puppies aren't born with roundworms, but they pick them up so soon after that they might as well be. The very mother's milk that gives puppies the immunity they need to survive their first few weeks of life also carries the roundworm larvae that will plague almost every puppy.

Chances are your puppy still has roundworms, but that's not the only kind of parasite that could be compromising his health. Your puppy needs to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Your veterinarian will give you the medication you need to treat the infestation. Follow directions exactly, including the one for a recheck. Your puppy won't be in the clear until a fecal examination at the vet's office reveals no sign of worms.

Don't forget to discuss heartworms with your vet, too. In most areas, heartworm prevention should start within the first month of life. Prevention is the key to keeping heartworms at bay, since despite recent advances in the treatment of heartworm infestations, it's still better for the pet to prevent problems with either the monthly or daily pill.

Ask your veterinarian about a "puppy package." Some practices combine preventive-care measures for puppies into a single plan that's priced more cheaply than each procedure would be individually. It's a great way to get your puppy off to the best start, with vaccinations, wormings and spaying or neutering.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Cat lovers are notoriously resistant to putting collars on their cats. Some just get tired of replacing the ones their cats keep slipping off; other people are convinced their roaming darlings will get caught on a tree branch by their collars and hang themselves.

Both groups are taking chances with their pets' lives. Cat collars are inexpensive insurance against loss, and as for the danger of being collared, shelter officials sadly admit to putting down scores of obviously lost cats because they cannot match them to their owners -- but never to finding cat skeletons in trees.

It's all about the importance of playing the odds. If you let your cat roam, give him a ticket home with ID. Even if your cat won't make it home again because he's been hit by a car or other calamity -- an all-to-common end to roaming cats -- you'll at least have the peace of mind of knowing his fate. That kind of news is never welcome, but it's always better than being left wondering and waiting.

Cat collars are made of lightweight material and designed to "give" enough to let your cat wriggle free should the collar ever catch on something. Don't get a puppy collar by mistake: Dog collars are meant to prevent escapes, and cat collars are made to allow them. The fit should be snug, but not uncomfortably so.

Once you've got the right collar, order a tag. ID tags come in high-impact plastic in a variety of colors and shapes or in metal, also in many varieties, such as circles, cat's heads, reflectors and so on. Since cat tags are small, don't bother with putting your cat's name on it, since he won't answer anyway unless he feels like it. Instead, use the space for a couple of extra phone numbers so someone who finds your cat can locate you or a friend, neighbor or relative day or night. If you're concerned about dangling tags, look for those that attach flat to the collar.

Some communities require free-roaming cats to be licensed as a way to offset the costs of handling strays and to ensure compliance with local rabies-vaccination requirements. To find out if your community is one of these with licensing requirements for cats, call your local animal-control agency. In response to concern about dangling tags, some agencies issue tags that slip over collars, while a few offer the option of tiny ear tags.

Microchips are form of ID that has come on strong in recent years, but they work best as a complement to tags, not a replacement for them. The microchip is permanent identification no bigger than a grain of rice, which your veterinarian imbeds under the skin over your pet's shoulder blades using a large needle. The chip, encased in a nonreactive glass casing, contains a unique identifying number that can be read by a scanner, kind of like those in the grocery store.

Remember, though, that most lost pets are found not by shelter staffers but by neighbors, and neighbors don't have microchip scanners in their collection of home appliances. Which is why although I highly recommend a microchip for permanent ID of your pet, I also advise you to be sure a collar and tag is on him at all times, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

Not surprisingly, some folks who adore domesticated skunks as pets thought my recent response to a question about them was a tad on the negative side. They differed with Dr. Linda Randall's assertion that the animals were destructive, and challenged me to set the record straight on their pets. One fancier, Shelor Brumbeloe of Georgia, sent me a brochure that is duplicated on her Skunk Lady Web site: www.geocities.com/(tilde)octodont/skunklady.

Curiously, the site confirms most of what Dr. Randall said, discussing ways to "skunk-proof" a home to prevent destructive digging at carpets or walls. While eye-numbingly text-heavy, Brumbeloe's page has a great deal on these pets, along with information on regional "skunks as pets" organizations and links to other skunk pages. If you'd like to learn more about skunk pets, this is a great place to start.

PET TIP

It's that time of year again: Thump your car before you start it, and don't be surprised if a cat comes flying out from underneath.

Cats are heat-seeking missiles, and on cold nights the ones unfortunate enough to have no shelter seek out the warmest places they can. Veterinarians know well what can happen to those heat-seekers who snuggle up to a warm engine and don't wake up in time to avoid injury.

Cars aren't the only cold-weather hazard for cats. Every year clothes dryers claim lives, too, after pets snuggled into a warm pile of clothes in the dryer and remained there when a family member unknowingly closes the door and turns the appliance back on.

This is another easy-to-prevent tragedy. Keep the door to your clothes dryer closed, and to be doubly sure, make sure your cat's not sleeping inside before you use it.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have two dogs, one a retriever mix, the other a Belgian shepherd mix. They stay primarily in the house. Their coats are shiny, they have no unpleasant odor, and if their paws get muddy from the yard, I wash their paws. Consequently, I bathe them perhaps twice a year. I also brush them every other week or so. My girlfriend thinks I should bathe them more often, despite the fact that she also agrees they don't smell. What are your thoughts? -- M.B., via the Internet

A: There's something to be said for the idea of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." If your dogs have a glossy coat, skin that's not flaking or showing other signs of problems, and you're happy with how they smell, then you're probably doing just fine. As you've discovered, regular brushing goes a long way toward extending the period between baths, redistributing the oils in the coat and getting rid of dirt and debris.

I would, however, be especially vigilant for fleas, which could throw everything out of kilter. The presence of fleas is most easily detected by looking for "flea dirt," a euphemism for blood-packed excrement of these voracious pests. Put your dog on a light-colored sheet and run your fingers deep against the grain of the fur. If you see little pepper-like specks on the sheet, my condolences: You've got flea dirt, and hence, fleas. Add a drop of water to the pepper and you'll see red as the dried blood remains become rehydrated. (Actually, anything having to do with fleas makes me see red. I flat-out hate them!)

Talk to your veterinarian about the new monthly spot-on products, Advantage and Frontline. They're easy to use and highly effective.

My own dogs get bathed about once a month, although the two retrievers see lake water considerably more frequently than they see bathwater. Between my allergies and the fact that all three of them sleep on the bed, I find that a good monthly sudsing makes them easier to live with -- less fur, less dirt, cleaner bedspread. They disagree and would rather skip the baths entirely. Too bad. As long as I'm paying for the kibble, they get baths.

Q: I am tired of watching my dog drink out of the toilet. It turns my stomach. I've yelled at her, spanked her and she won't stop. She just waits until she thinks I'm not looking, and I hear the "slurp, slurp, slurp." What can I do? -- T.B., via the Internet.

A: Close the bathroom door, put down the toilet lid, or both.

While it's true you can train a dog to do or not do a wide variety of things, sometimes it just makes more sense to look for another solution. Look at it for a minute from your dog's point of view: fresh water, frequently changed and in a container conveniently raised. Heck, if your dog thought about it, she'd be ticked at you for doing what you do in her water bowl.

This is a problem I never had until recently because my dogs were too short to reach the bowl. The big dogs find the bowl very convenient. I keep the lid down and, just in case I forget, skip any drop-in bowl cleaners.

A similar complaint I hear is from owners of pets that won't keep out of the kitchen trash bin. Solution: Get a bin with a pedal that raises the lid, or put the bin under the sink.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you're going to have a healthy pet, you'll need the help of a veterinarian. And while some people believe these health-care professionals are virtually interchangeable, distinguished only by convenience and price, you're doing your pet a disservice if you don't put a little effort into choosing the right one.

To work effectively with your veterinarian, you need to develop a relationship over time, so he or she can build a history and become familiar with you and your pet. Group practices are fine, but working primarily with one veterinarian, either alone or in a group, is best.

Your veterinarian should be technically proficient, current on the latest treatments and willing to seek out more information on your pet's behalf. A good veterinarian should be articulate, able to explain what's going on with your pet in a way that you can understand, and willing to answer your questions so that you can make a responsible decision on your pet's behalf.

Above all, you must be able to trust your veterinarian. After all, knowing what goes on in a veterinarian's office after you leave your pet behind is impossible. An animal can never comment on treatment, and an animal lover must rely on trust to be sure a pet has been dealt with fairly.

Before you choose a vet, ask friends, co-workers and neighbors for recommendations. Over the years, animal lovers can tell which veterinarians are knowledgeable, compassionate and hardworking. These veterinarians are always talked up by satisfied clients.

Other factors may help you narrow down your list of possibilities:

-- Is the clinic or hospital well-versed in the kind of pets you have? If you have birds, for example, you need to be sure you're dealing with a practice that handles enough feathered pets to be comfortable with them and knowledgeable about them. Certifications should weigh in your decision as well, such as the ones granted by the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners in canine, feline or avian care. Such additional certifications demonstrate an eagerness to seek higher levels of knowledge.

-- Is the clinic or hospital conveniently located, with hours you can live with? If you have a 9-to-5 job, a veterinarian with a 9-to-5 clinic won't do your pet much good. Many veterinarian offices are open late on at least one weeknight and for at least a half-day on Saturday, or they are willing to make other arrangements.

-- Does the veterinarian show a willingness to consult with veterinary college staff or independent or in-house specialists, or does she subscribe to an online veterinary service? An interest in discussing tough cases with colleagues is the sign of a veterinarian who's putting in effort on your pet's behalf. Online veterinary services also assist veterinarians in getting to the bottom of a tough case, as well as offering continuing education and searchable databases of professional journals.

-- What kind of emergency care is available, if any? Although emergency veterinary clinics are prepared for any catastrophe, they are not familiar with your pet. If your veterinarian's practice does not offer 24-hour care, does it work with one that does?

-- Do you feel a rapport with this person? Are you comfortable asking questions? Discussing fees? The final call on whether a particular veterinarian is right for you comes down to intangibles. If you don't feel comfortable, you're less likely to deal with your veterinarian, and the lack of productive communication hurts your pet in the long run.

-- Will your pet be comfortable? You need a practice that runs efficiently enough that your pet isn't stuck for very long in a waiting room. If you have cats, you might want to consider a feline-only practice, or one that has separate waiting rooms for cats and dogs.

If you're not happy with your veterinarian or you don't trust your vet's work on your pet's behalf, you'll be considerably less likely to go in for anything less than an emergency. And that's a bad way to manage your pet's health. Preventive care is easier on both your pet and your bank account, as is working with a veterinarian in whom you have confidence.

PETS ON THE WEB

A good place to start searching is with the Veterinary Information Network's free veterinary-referral service, VetQuest (www.vetquest.com). More than 25,000 veterinary practices are in the VetQuest database, and the service even shows you a street map to help you find the hospital or clinic you choose. Bird lovers should also visit the Association of Avian Veterinarians home page (www.aav.org), which also offers a free referral service. Finally, find out more about the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners at www.abvp.com.

PET TIP

If you're thinking of going anywhere over the holidays, don't delay in making boarding or pet-sitting arrangements for your pet. In some cases, it may already be too late; boarding kennels and pet-sitters get their first year-end holiday reservations long before the Fourth of July.

It doesn't hurt to have a backup plan, either. One of my favorite stories involves a family who decided to take their basset hound with them on the plane from California to Minnesota for Christmas. Problem was, although the temperature in California was fine for shipping animals that Christmas morning, the temperature in Minnesota was below federal regulations -- the dog had to stay behind. The family had made no arrangements for that, of course. So they put their heads together, called a friend to collect the dog and caught the plane for Minnesota.

The friend now in charge of the dog actually left behind his family's Christmas celebration to head for the airport, but there was "no room at the inn" for the dog at any local kennels. He was a good sport about keeping the dog and everything worked out fine, but it could have been a real disaster. When it comes to the holidays and pets, you can never plan too carefully.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I'm a firm believer in leashes, but it never ceases to amaze me how inconsiderate and rude people can be about keeping their dogs on leash.

Many times this last summer I have gone to the park with my dog for a day of walking and fun, only to have another dog come running up with its hair raised or barking.

On one particular occasion, a big mixed-breed dog came running toward us with its hair raised, dragging a leash behind it. As it stood there growling, I took my long leash and slapped the ground beside the dog, scaring it off.

At that particular moment the owner came around the trees. This young woman proceeded to use language a sailor wouldn't even dare. I said that if she couldn't verbally control her dog, there's a new invention called a leash. To which she replied, "He's got one on." I pointed out to her that I had watched her dog earlier harass a couple of kids and another dog owner and that she was just asking for trouble, hence another round of foul language erupted from her mouth.

I don't recall seeing any pet articles about having consideration for the law and letting other people enjoy the day with their dogs. Not only are these roaming dogs annoying, but they can be dangerous -- as well as a potential car accident. If people truly loved their pets, they would make an effort to give them the proper training and keep them in control at all times.

I would not wish harm on any animal, but it is hard for me to feel anything for the dog owner who is crying over his dog that has just been run over. With proper control of the pet, this could have been avoided. That poor animal is now dead thanks to a master who should have loved him as much as the dog did the family.

Can you please write about the importance of leashes and having consideration for others? With obedience training and a leash, anyone can control a dog, even if it gets loose. -- K.Q., Spokane, Wash.

A: You've done just as good a job as I could have, and I thank you for writing. Aggressive, annoying, out-of-control dogs are a danger not only to the people and animals in their immediate vicinity but also to the future of all dogs. Who can blame people who don't like or are afraid of dogs from pushing for pets to be banned from public spaces in such circumstances? As always, it's a case of a few ruining it for all.

Oh, and while we're on the topic of being responsible: When you're picking up that leash to head out, pack some plastic bags, too. A considerate dog-owner keeps his dog under control and never leaves any calling cards behind.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600