Adult dogs make great pets, and there's certainly no shortage of them. Purebreds or mixed, dogs beyond the puppy stages can fit more easily into your household with less time and training than a youngster, and bond just as tightly.

That said, you do need to shop carefully and find out everything you can about any dog you're considering -- you are talking about a lifetime commitment, after all. While expecting to work on some glitches as your new dog gets used to you is reasonable, you want to avoid those animals who have problems you can't handle.

Here are some questions to ask that will help you decide:

-- What do you know of this dog's history? You may be dealing with a shelter, a rescue volunteer, the dog's original owner or breeder, or a nice person who found a stray. If you discover the dog is well-bred and his parents have been certified free of congenital defects, more's the better. If you find out nothing about him because he was a stray, though, don't count him out. If he's healthy and friendly and otherwise fits your size, coat and activity criteria, he can still be a contender.

-- Why is this dog available for adoption? Dogs become available for lots of reasons, some as frivolous as a change in decor. "Losing our home," "divorce" and "death" are some of the better reasons as far as adopting is concerned; "bit our daughter" obviously is not (even if you don't have children). Listen, too, for what isn't said: "He needs more exercise than we can give him" may mean "and he eats furniture when he doesn't get it."

-- What behavior problems does this dog have? Many things are fixable and worth considering if you honestly believe you'll take the time to work with the dog. "Pulls on the leash" is fixable. "A little aggressive" is not, at least not by the average pet owner's standard, and probably not to the extent that you should take a chance on a biting dog. Remember, too, that some problems are the owner's fault, not the dog's. "Won't stay in the yard," for example, may be easily cured by a decent fence and neutering.

-- How is he with children? Other dogs? Cats? Even if you don't have children, you're going to run into some from time to time. The same is true with other dogs. You can successfully avoid cats if you don't have them - providing you keep your pet leashed -- but make certain your prospective pet at least tolerates them well if you do.

If you're getting an animal from a shelter, the organization should have asked the former owner to fill out a card on such things as problems with children or other animals. If you're adopting from a foster home, ask if the family has other animals and children. If there's no way to determine the dog's attitude toward children and other animals but he seems friendly, he may be OK.

If you have doubts, hold out for an animal you're sure will fit with your family. Take your time and keep your heart in check, and you'll find some winners out there -- second-chance dogs who deserve a family, perfect for pampering the rest of their lives. I know. I have two of them.

PETS ON THE WEB

I can't imagine there's a lot of competition for being "The Chinniest Site on Earth," so I'm going to go along with their chutzpah and recommend ChinNet (www.chin.buffnet.net) to anyone who has or is thinking of getting one of these furry critters for a pet. This comprehensive Web site on chinchillas offers care information in several languages, lots of pictures and cartoons, links to dozens of related Web sites and listserves, as well as places to discuss these pets with others who fancy them. You can find a breeder, supplies or a Chin-friendly veterinarian here, too. A good mix of the lighthearted and the serious, ChinNet is both entertaining and educational.

PET TIP

Almost without fail people use one word too much and incorrectly when raising a puppy. The word? "No." Some puppies hear it so often they think it's part of their name: "JoeNO!" "MeganNO!" Used constantly and especially if used in a whiny, pleading manner, "no" loses its value as a training tool.

"No" should be delivered firmly and sharply, as guttural as a low, barky growl -- comparable, in other words to how a puppy's mother expresses her displeasure. Don't whine at your dog: "No, no, no, no. Mommy's fluffums is bad, bad, bad!" Instead, throw the word at the pup.

Because of the overuse of the word, some trainers suggest using another sound especially for correction, something that lends itself more naturally to sounding like a growl, like "arrrggghhh."

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a long-haired Chihuahua, and her breath is absolutely horrible. I have tried dog biscuits and a few other "remedies," and none seem to work. Is there anything that you know of that may help Chloe? -- D.B., via the Internet

A: You need to visit your veterinarian. The causes for bad breath in dogs and cats can range from periodontal disease to diabetes to broken teeth to eating something vile, and nothing will help until the underlying cause is accurately diagnosed and treated.

Chances are, though, it's your pet's teeth that need the attention. Small dogs in particular have problems with plaque buildup that can in time undermine the very foundation of the teeth and put a drain on the general health of the animal.

Have your veterinarian check Chloe's mouth, teeth and gums -- and perform a complete dentistry under anesthesia, if warranted. The procedure takes 45 minutes to an hour, and involves not only cleaning and polishing the teeth, but also checking for and treating broken or rotting teeth, cavities, abscesses and periodontal disease.

After the problems are treated, at-home care can keep things in good shape and extend the time between veterinary cleanings. The biggest component of a home regimen: Brushing or wiping the teeth a couple of times a week.

Use a toothpaste made for pets. It tastes better to your pet and can be safely swallowed. Pet pastes contain enzymes that dissolve buildup and don't need to be rinsed away. This is important, because pets can't gargle, rinse or spit!

As for a toothbrush, you can use one made just for pets, or choose a soft one made for children. Another option: a brush that fits over the fingertip, or a simple piece of gauze wrapped around your index finger.

Make brushing part of your petting routine when you're watching TV. Let your pet sniff and taste the paste, then gentle introduce brushing, followed by lots of praise.

Dry foods, biscuits and chew toys can help keep teeth clean, but they cannot substitute for a regimen of proper care -- as you've discovered. Choose toys that have some "give" to them; hard chews such as hooves have been known to break teeth.

Q: I was wondering how much a black Lab/greyhound mix should weigh. She is 6 years old. -- G.N., via the Internet

A: Instead of worrying about pounds, put your hands on her and feel how fit she is. You should be able to feel her ribs beneath a thin layer of protective fat and move her skin across them easily. When you step back and look at her, you should be able to see a tuck-up behind her ribs; she ought to have a visible waist.

Obesity is a common health problem in our pets -- not only in dogs and cats, but also in birds and such pets as rabbits and guinea pigs. The reasons are the same in pets as in people: too much food and not enough activity.

Talk to your veterinarian about your pet's weight if you're concerned. It's a good idea to start any weight-change plan with a checkup and food recommendation. Don't do anything drastic. A sudden change in the amount of food or exercise your pet gets could be dangerous.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Solid, tabby or tuxedo, longhaired or short, a cat's coat is one of the most beautiful things about this special pet. It's also one of the most annoying, if you're fussy about fur.

How much do you know about cat fur? Enough to make a decision about what kind of coat type you could live with? Read on:

Cats have three kinds of hair in their coat -- down, awn and guard. The down is the shortest, finest and softest hair. The awn is the coarsest, and the guard the longest. Not all cat breeds have all three kinds of hair. The "hairless" Sphynx, for example, has only guard hairs, and not many of those. The curly-coated Cornish Rex has only awn and down. The makeup of the different hair types can differ, too. The awn hairs are usually shorter than the guard hairs, but when they're the same length, it makes for an especially thick covering known among cat fanciers as a "double coat."

Some cats, such as the Rexes, shed little. Longhairs seem to shed a lot, but that's partly because the hair they lose is longer. But all cats shed, and you need to take the amount shed into consideration when thinking about adding a pet to your household. Call it the "fur level" consideration, and add two others: aesthetics, and time and money.

Aesthetics is easy to sort out, for it's strictly a matter of personal choice. Some people love the sleekness of shorthaired cats, while others prefer a longhaired look. While personality and body types don't always match up so neatly in random-bred cats, it helps to know that in pedigreed animals, short hairs are often lighter, leaner, louder and much more active than the heavier longhaired breeds.

Even if you prefer the feel of a longhaired cat, you need to be aware they require more upkeep. Longhairs, especially the silkier ones such as Persians, mat easily and need to be combed out every other day or so as well as brushed out weekly. Hairballs are a bigger problem in longhaired cats and may require more veterinarian visits or medications. That means money, as does a professional grooming -- most likely shaving -- if the coat gets out of control.

Combing and brushing help keep both hairballs and shedding under control, but they won't eliminate either. Living with a cat is always going to be about dodging the urp-ups in your bare feet and picking hair off your clothes. If you're at the lower end of the tolerance level, invest in lint brushes and think shorthair, or the Rex breeds if you're considering a pedigreed. If you like glorious coats of the longhaired cats, invest in lint-brush stock and jump right in, but don't forget to put on your slippers first.

PETS ON THE WEB

Sometimes I could not be more grateful that I'm a writer, not a radio host, and this is one of those times. I won't have to embarrass myself by trying to pronounce Polski Owczarek Nizinny, an interesting breed of herding dog with a pretty good informational Web site (www.aponc.com). The PON, known in England by the far easier monicker of Polish lowland sheepdog (which is what Polski Owczarek Nizinny translates to), is a medium-sized dog looking something like a bearded collie -- lots of long hair and a fuzzy face.

Its fans brag that the breed is an intelligent dog with a good memory and an intense desire to please. The Web site offers a decent overview of the status of this breed in the United States, with pictures, show results and links to folks who own and show this interesting rare breed. Check out the story of the dog named Bob, who has made quite a career for herself (yes, Bob's a girl) in commercials.

PET TIP

If you have a cat, you ought to have a cat carrier. I've seen people trying to transport their cat in everything from bare hands to pillow cases, and nothing beats a cat carrier when it comes to safety -- for both you and your cat -- comfort and convenience. Skip those cardboard ones the shelters give you to take your new pet home; they're not designed for sturdy long-term use. Others to rule out include carriers with no privacy, or ones that don't clean easily, such as those made of wicker.

Your best bet is a carrier made of hard, high-impact molded plastic that has an open-grid door. Most models have the door at one end, but you may find it easier to deal with your pet if you instead find the kind with the door on the top. These make getting your pet in and out of the carrier much easier.

Another reason to own one: A carrier is an essential piece of any disaster kit, making evacuation easier in the event of an emergency and expanding the possibilities for temporary housing for your pet.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 14-year-old Scottie who has arthritis. The vet has prescribed half a buffered aspirin twice a day. I've heard conflicting views on this -- from family, not professionals -- and I'm wondering what to do. She seems to be in some pain and definitely is suffering stiffness. - K.F, via the Internet

A: I'd go with the good doctor's advice. Buffered or coated aspirin is a commonly recommended medication for creaky dogs, as are some of the newer nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory prescription medications such as Rimdayl.

Give your relatives some credit, though: They're on the right track by suggesting caution when it comes to over-the-counter drugs. Drugs behave in different animals in different ways. Cats, for example, cannot handle Tylenol and can be killed by what you might consider a small, cat-sized dose!

Such dangers stress why it's so important to develop a trusting relationship with your veterinarian, one where you feel comfortable asking questions and discussing what's best for your pet without feeling you must keep an eye on the clock or your bank account. You and your veterinarian must work together to maintain your pet in the best health.

A final note: Ask your veterinarian about chondroitin sulfate and glucosamine supplements for your dog. These medications improve the fluid around the joints, making movement easier. Inquire, too, about skipping the name-brand supplement and buying a generic equivalent made for humans at a discount pharmacy or warehouse store. You'll need to work with your veterinarian on the dosage, though.

Q: My puppy is losing his teeth! We were playing tug-of-war the other day, and I noticed one of his teeth in the rope. I called the emergency clinic and they said it was normal. I'm still worried. -- P.D., via the Internet

A: Stop worrying. Dogs have puppy teeth just like we have baby teeth, and they start coming out as early as two months of age. The smaller teeth pop out earliest, with the bigger ones such as canines and molars hanging on for a few months. Your pup's shiny new adult teeth will be securely in place by the time he hits his seven-month birthday, most likely.

Sometimes, though, a puppy tooth will hang around even after it has been pushed aside by its replacement. Talk to your veterinarian if you see this. Your puppy's doctor will probably opt to pull it.

Time now for the advice you didn't ask for: Stop playing tug-of-war with your puppy. Tug-of-war can teach your pet to be aggressive, and I'm sure that's the last thing you want.

Here's how the game plays out, from the human and pet point of view:

You play a rowdy round of tug-of-war with your pet, until you get tired, bored or remember you have to call your mother. You drop your end. You think, "Game's over." Your pet thinks, "I won." Leaving a dog with the idea that he won is never a good idea. Dogs are opportunists: If you aren't a leader, he will be, and that's a road to trouble.

Teach your puppy to play fetch instead. It's better exercise, and it reinforces your role as a fun leader.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The sun's rays were still new and struggling through the mist when the "sighthounds" came to play on a breathtaking piece of land overlooking the ocean an hour or so south of San Francisco. Lure coursing may be a sport to the humans who put days like these on their calendars, but to the dogs who compete it is joy unleashed.

Sighthounds were designed to track game by eye, not nose, and to give chase, and their bodies reflect the work they were bred to do. Deep-chested and long-legged, with elegant necks and wise, narrow faces, the dogs danced at the ends of their leashes or waited impatiently in exercise pens. The humans who brought them in the smattering of vans and motor homes so common to any canine event might have had rules, titles and glory on their minds. For the dogs, there was but one goal: They came to run.

Like most dogs today, they don't get much chance to. We have meddled from the beginning with our canine companions, developing dogs to retrieve, to dig out and dispatch vermin, to pull sleds, to run down game. Few dogs do any of these things today, and it says a great deal for the strong bond we have with this species that most are content to spend their days alone in our homes and yards and their evenings in our company.

Some of the more dedicated dog-lovers are determined to provide more, which is how three dozen or so dogs and their owners ended up in such beautiful surroundings on a cool fall morning.

Lure coursing is sort of a compromise sport from the start. Hounds were bred for specific prey, but we have thankfully little stomach today for watching cherished pets tear the entrails from living creatures, be they rabbits, deer, wolves or even lions. The compromise is chasing a "rabbit" that is anything but: white garbage bags secured to a line powered by a small engine. The lure whips through the field just a bit faster than the dogs run, with a jerky rhythm and sudden turns meant to duplicate the run of startled prey.

The morning's runs were for the beginners, brought to the start by their owners and held firm until the "rabbit" ran.

The instinct to chase clicked in with dogs who had never been exposed to any opportunity to do as their ancestors had for centuries. They ran with intensity and joy so palpable that onlookers stilled to concentrate on the fleet-footed animals. The steam that rose from cups of coffee was the only other thing moving until each run was done.

Christie Keith, one of a pair of friends who had invited me to watch, has been in love with sighthounds for nearly 20 years. She has put coursing titles on many of her Scottish deerhounds, including two dogs who became both field and show champions. My other friend, Linda Batson, was new to the coursing but not to her breed: Her Rhodesian ridgebacks are some of the very best in the country at dog shows.

Their dogs did well, as did most of the dogs at the trial. Titles were won and prizes awarded. For my friends, though, that seemed like icing on the cake, with the treat being the opportunity to talk dogs with others just as fervent, and, of course, to watch dogs run.

"It's beautiful," said Keith, and despite the astonishing surroundings it was clear that she was talking about only one thing: The sight of a lanky dog stretched long with effort, running, running, running as fast as the winds kicking off the ocean.

"They love to run," she said. "And I love to see them."

It's a sight I cannot wait to see again.

PETS ON THE WEB

You can find information on lure coursing from the Web site of the American Sighthound Field Association (www.asfa.org), which sanctions field trials throughout the United States for 11 sighthound breeds. The site explains the rules, the titles available to competitors, and includes both information on upcoming events and results from trials past. The American Kennel Club (www.akc.org) oversees its own lure coursing events, and offers information on its trials, rules and titles on its Web site -- put "lure coursing" in the page's search engine to find the information fastest.

PET TIP

The popularity of reptile pets has more than a few public-health experts concerned about salmonella, a bacteria present in the intestinal tracts of pets such as iguanas. A salmonella infection can make healthy people violently ill and can be lethal to the very young or very elderly, or those with compromised immune systems. For those people, as well as pregnant women, reptilian pets are not advised.

For others who enjoy these exotic pets, common sense dictates careful attention to basic good hygiene. Iguanas should not be allowed to walk on counters where food is prepared or eaten, nor should they be given baths in sinks or tubs that humans use. After handling these pets or cleaning their cages, be sure to wash your hands in warm, soapy water. Since iguanas and other reptiles are often children's pets, be sure your children get the message, too.

Finally, keep things in perspective: Although salmonella infections traced to pets have risen along with the popularity of iguanas and other reptiles, reported cases are still low -- a few dozen nationwide every year. A few basic precautions are all you need to keep from being one of those statistics.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Regarding your "tip" on using a "power tool" on a difficult animal's nails -- are you crazy? I've been a groomer for 10 years and would never think of using a power tool on a pet that is already petrified of this procedure. It would take longer, and the noise alone would scare any animal! -- C.P., via the Internet

Q: I asked my veterinarian's office about your recent note on using a grinder on dog nails. They said they'd never heard of such a thing. What gives? -- C.R., via the Internet.

A: Yes, I'm crazy, but not when it comes to grinding nails on dogs. So many dog owners, breeders and show handlers do it, the company that makes the dominant brand of pet clippers, Oster, also makes a pet-nail grinder. (I find the multipurpose Dremel a better fit for my hand, but that's just personal preference.)

I agree that it may not be the best tool for a professional groomer, who doesn't have the time to slowly introduce the animal to the grinder over time. (As for it being a "power tool," though, what an odd concern. What do you think clippers are?)

For patient pet owners, though, this is a nail-maintenance technique that can prove superior -- easier on both dogs and owners. When you grind nails, there's no guessing where the quick is, no bleeding when you cut too far. With grinding, the nail is shortened in tiny, tiny increments, which gives you time to stop before you get into any trouble.

Let me again stress the word "patient." Introduce the grinder to your dog by tapping his nail with the power off, and then by turning it on an arm's length away. Praise and call it a day. When the pet is comfortable with the sound, bring it close enough to touch a nail tip while on and no more. More praise, another lesson over. Eventually you'll be able to grind off the tip and smooth up the sides of each nail.

It took me a long month of small steps -- done while watching TV in the evenings, mostly -- to get my big retriever, Benjamin, used to the grinder. But he almost relaxes when his big nails are ground now, which is a big change from the hatred he had for getting his nails clipped. My friend Penny, who has been grinding nails on her massive Irish wolfhounds for years, says she hasn't the strength to cut through those monster nails -- grinding is the only thing that works for her.

If you and your dog are happy with clipping, by all means stick with it. I have been clipping my oldest dog's nails for a dozen years and have no reason to change. But if you are having problems, grinding is an option.

One final point: Wear a dust mask while you work. To get a good look at what you're doing, you'll be close enough to breathe in the dust from the grinding -- and it can be irritating.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600